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Teach Your Dog to Settle and Relax on Cue

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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A doberman pinscher relaxing in a retail environment.
Today, “Relax” is a favorite behavior of Iris, a rescued Doberman belonging to North Carolina trainer Trish McMillan, CPDT. Iris used to exhibit an over-exuberant greeting style (often muzzle-punching people in the face), so McMillan taught Iris this behavior as a highly reinforced “incompatible alternative” to those greetings. McMillan reports that Iris has generalized the behavior so thoroughly that she sometimes falls completely asleep, even in formerly stressful environments. Photo by Trish McMillan

The behaviors of relaxing and settling on cue are highly appreciated by most dog owners. Whether you’re fixing your dog’s dinner (or yours), greeting guests at the door, sitting in the lobby at your veterinarian’s office, or driving with your dog in the back seat, if your dog will exhibit a calm “Relax” behavior, it can help reduce stress and make everyone’s day smoother.

But your convenience isn’t the only compelling reason to teach these behaviors to your dog. When dogs learn that the act of remaining calm and still earns them treats and praise – when they learn that you will generously reinforce these behaviors – they will offer them more often.

 

 

In addition, when our dogs act calm, they will actually become calmer. Gradually, the physiological state of relaxation will develop as a conditioned response to reinforcement for the outward behavior.

Two Very Useful Calming Behaviors

I teach “Settle” and “Relax” as two separate behaviors:

I use the cue “Settle” to mean the behavior of relaxing while lying down on one hip for an extended period of time – several minutes or longer – on a mat or rug.

“Relax” takes the lying-down behavior one calm step further; I teach Relax to mean “lie flat on your side for an extended period of time.” I know a dog has dependably learned this behavior when she falls asleep shortly after being cued and rewarded for relaxing flat on her side!

How to Teach “Settle”

This exercise teaches your dog to lie quietly at your side while you are otherwise engaged. It’s a great behavior to practice while watching television; you’re just hanging out anyway!

  1. Sit in a chair with your dog next to you and invite her to lie down with a cue for this behavior. (Although it’s preferable if she already understands a cue for Down, if she doesn’t, you can lure her into the Down. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down on Cue.”)
  2. Mark the moment she lies down (click or say “Yes!”) and give her a treat; then, before she has time to get up, quickly mark again and give her another treat. Note: If your marker tends to excite her, you can just feed the treat without marking. Make sure you feed treats directly to her mouth and low to the floor so she doesn’t stand up to reach the treat.
  3. If she’s not already lying with her weight shifted onto one hip, encourage her to rock onto one hip by moving the treat to the side in a semi-circle toward her ribs.

Do this in small steps (lure-shaping) until she voluntarily rocks onto her hip; if you try to do too much, you risk making her uncomfortable and having her get up. Even worse, you can give her a negative association with the settle process, and then she won’t want to do it at all. For the same reason, do not ever try to physically push her onto her hip.

Many dogs will settle more easily on one side than the other, so if you’re having trouble getting her to do this, try luring her toward the other side. Repeat numerous times.

  1. When your dog will settle onto one hip easily, say “Settle” just before you lure her onto her hip. Fade the lure (gradually stop using the lure) as soon as she’s easily settling onto one hip. Eventually she will settle when you give the cue, without needing the lure.
  2. Gradually increase the duration of the relaxed-on-one-hip position by increasing the time between treats so she stays down by her own choice, waiting for the next mark and treat. As you decrease the number of marks, substitute calm praise (with no treats) in between the marks/treats. If your click or verbal marker tends to excite her, switch to praise sooner.
  3. When your dog will stay down in the Settle position for 20 seconds or more, start using Settle cue without asking her to Down first.
  4. Continue to decrease your rate of reinforcement (marks and treats) until she can lie quietly at your feet for an extended period with very little reinforcement.

How to Teach “Relax”

You can add Relax to your dog’s repertoire when she does Settle easily and with moderate duration, as this is an even more relaxed position than the rocked-on-one-hip pose.

First, ask your dog to Settle. Then with a treat in your hand, encourage her to roll flat onto one side by moving the lure in a “C” shape toward her ribcage, then up toward her spine. Be sure to roll her in the same direction you already started with the Settle. Again, you will likely need to lure-shape. Many dogs get a little stuck at the point when they actually have to tip over. Be sure to stay within her comfort zone to avoid making her uncomfortable, and again, do not ever try to physically push her onto her side. Add your Relax cue when you can easily lure her onto her side, then work on duration as described in Steps 5, 6, and 7 above.

Use a “Place Mat” for Portable Calm

Make sure to generalize your Settle and Relax cues by practicing these behaviors in a wide variety of different locations.

There is also great value in teaching your dog to settle and/or relax on her own personal “place mat” by practicing the behaviors on an easily portable towel, blanket, or mat that you can transport easily. That way, your dog will develop a strong association with being calm and relaxed on her mat for long periods. Then you can take the mat with you anywhere you go, significantly increasing your likelihood of success with your calm cues when bringing your canine pal with you to dine at an outdoor cafe, watch your child’s baseball game, visit friends, or wait in your vet’s lobby.

MORE RELAXATION TIPS

-Exercise your dog well, and give her time to calm down before you do a Settle/Relax training session. A tired dog will learn to relax much more easily than one who is cranked and full of energy. Once the behavior is well established, you can use these cues to help a rambunctious dog to calm down.

-Play calming music. Remember that the goal is to give your dog a very calm association with her cues (and her mat), and calming music can help do this. (See “Do Dogs Like Music?” for links to calming music for dogs.)

-Teach your dog to breathe. I know, she already knows how to breathe! Karen Overall, VMD, PhD, a veterinary behaviorist and Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB), has a protocol for teaching a dog to take slow, calming breaths (instead of panting), which helps the dog become calm. (For Dr. Overall’s complete protocol, see “Teaching Your Dog Calm, Slow Breathing.”)

Kidney Diet for Dogs

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Cute older dappled Dachshund With Paralyses Legs Eating Pet Food At The Kitchen And Looking At Camera.
Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is fairly common in dogs, but the right therapeutic kidney diet can help slow the progression of the disease, alleviate symptoms, and ensure the dog’s best possible quality of life. Photo by Elena Popova, Getty Images

Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is a common condition that occurs when the kidneys lose their ability to function properly, leading the buildup of waste products and toxins in the body. In dogs, we rely on dietary therapies to help alleviate symptoms and slow the progression of the disease, thus ensuring the best possible quality of life for our companions. A therapeutic diet for dogs with kidney disease has the following characteristics:

  • Carefully considered amount and quality of protein. Proteins are large molecules comprised of building blocks called amino acids. High quality proteins contain many or all of the essential amino acids that dogs need for cellular repair and the maintenance of lean body mass. Proteins can also vary in digestibility, depending on the source. The protein in egg is considered to be 100% digestible, with meat from chicken, beef, and lamb having a protein digestibility in the 90% to 95% range. Excess protein, or poorly digestible proteins, can lead to the accumulation of protein metabolites in the body, creating more work for the kidneys, which are responsible for the filtration and removal of these waste products. Because of this, dogs with CKD often benefit from a controlled protein intake.

The modification of protein intake has been the foundation for the management of chronic kidney disease for decades, as well as a source of controversy. While the recommendation for any dog suspected of suffering from CKD used to be to transition to a very low protein dog food, the current recommendation for kidney diets is to include moderate amounts of high-quality protein. Using high-quality, easily digestible, protein not only reduces strain on the kidneys, but also supports the maintenance of lean body mass and may help to keep the diet palatable.

  • Careful and dependable levels of dietary minerals. Controlling the balance of minerals is also recommended in dog foods for kidney disease, namely sodium and phosphorus.

Sodium restriction has been the standard recommendation for dogs with CKD, as diseased kidneys have a reduced ability to filter and excrete sodium in a dog’s body. Excess sodium buildup can lead to high blood pressure, which can further damage the delicate structures responsible for filtration in the kidneys. This is a precautionary measure and is often used in conjunction with medications to lower blood pressure to help preserve kidney health and function.

Phosphorus restriction is crucial when managing CKD, as elevated phosphorus levels can exacerbate kidney damage in dogs. Dogs suffering from CKD lose the ability to filter and excrete phosphate, which causes in increase in their production of parathyroid hormone. The release of this hormone in excess is correlated with the progression of kidney disease and also leads to hyperparathyroidism, so restricting the intake of phosphorus is vital for our dogs suffering from CKD.

Foods that can contain high levels of phosphorus include bones, organ meats, dairy, and muscle meats, among others. Because of this, it is important to ensure diets are formulated to keep phosphorus levels in mind and the consumption of bones and antlers should be minimized.

  • Added Omega-3 and Limited Omega-6 fatty acids. The omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) have renoprotective qualities and decrease inflammation in the body. The supplementation of fish oils, such as salmon oil, can help boost the omega-3 fatty acids in your dog’s diet.

However, not all omega fatty acids are the same. While omega-3 fatty acids, found in fish oil and marine microalgal oils, are beneficial for kidney health, omega-6 fatty acids, found in safflower and sunflower oils, appear to be detrimental to dogs suffering from CKD and should be avoided in excess.

  • Added antioxidants. Oxidation in the body causes the formation of free radicals, which attack compounds in the body and cause cellular damage, leading to inflammation. The cellular damage caused by free radicals has been implicated in the progression of kidney disease, so minimizing the presence of free radicals in the body is a goal when feeding dogs with kidney problems. Fortunately, these free radicals can be bound, and their damaging effects neutralized, by antioxidants. Dietary supplementation of vitamin E and vitamin C, which are rich in antioxidants, can bind up free radicals and minimize inflammation in the body.
  • Adequate water intake. Water is vital for maintaining kidney health and function, and incorporating moisture into the diet is a fantastic way to boost hydration in our dogs. Fresh and canned diets contain high levels of moisture (typically more than 70%), but owners can add even more moisture to these already high-moisture diets. Diets high in moisture are also typically more palatable, which can help to stimulate food intake in picky or lethargic dogs.

When adding moisture to diets for dogs with kidney disease, stay away from bone broths, broths, and dairy, as these can be high in phosphorus and sodium, which should be minimized. In addition, a source of fresh water should always be made available.

Veterinary monitoring and dietary adjustments

It is important to remember that chronic kidney disease is a progressive condition and your dog’s nutritional needs may change over time. Regular veterinary check-ups, including the monitoring of bloodwork, are essential for evaluating changes that may need to be made to maximize the efficacy of dietary therapies.

How to Get a Puppy to Sleep Through the Night

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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A small brown puppy sleeping through the night in his bed.
Getting an adequate amount of sleep is important for the physical and behavioral health of a growing puppy – as well as our sanity! Helping your puppy develop a healthy sleep schedule isn’t difficult, but it does require conscious effort on your part. Photo by Kathy Callahan

Let’s say you have a puppy, but you also really love your sleep. Are you doomed? Puppies often wake up too early and cry in the middle of the night. It can take months to develop a sleep schedule that jibes with yours. Can anything be done to avoid sleep deprivation?

Yes! The following are the most common things that keep puppies from sleeping through the night. If you proactively address each of them, you’ll give your entire household a better shot at regular sleep throughout puppyhood.

Is Your Puppy Lonely?

When you bring a puppy home, it’s probably the first time she’s ever been separated from her littermates. During the day, you might be able to distract her enough that she feels OK, but every other night of her little life she has been snuggled into a warm pile of breathing, nestling siblings. Sleeping alone may well feel impossible or make her wake far too early.

So this first week in particular, keep her company as she adjusts to her new life with you. Your kind presence, soothing voice, and warm hands can help so much. You might:

  • Sleep on the couch next to her pen/crate.
  • Keep her crate right next to your bed.
  • Place a tiny soft-sided crate alongside you in bed.
  • Bring her in bed with you, where you can cuddle her just like her littermates did. The last is our choice, and it results in the most sleep for us by far. (This doesn’t do all the terrible things you may have heard it does! See “Sleeping With Your New Puppy,” for encouragement.)

Also, don’t dismiss the “companionship” and comfort of anything warm! For some pups, a hot water bottle wrapped in a cozy (or furry) blanket will help them sleep through the night. So can a Snuggle Puppy, which has a safe warming feature and a simulated heartbeat.

A light colored puppy sleeps with his head atop a snuggle toy that simulates a heartbeat.
The Snuggle Puppy is a stuffed animal containing a battery-operated device that simulates a heartbeat (like that of a mother dog or littermate) to help a puppy adjust to sleeping alone; disposable warming packs can also be inserted inside. Photo by Monica Siniff

Does Your Puppy Have to Go to the Bathroom?

Everybody assumes that their puppy is waking up because he has to pee or poop, but in my experience that’s usually not the issue. (That’s why I started with loneliness, which is the most common culprit.)

Sure, if your puppy is crying and you take him outside he will pee. Unfortunately, you’ll likely conclude that having to pee was the reason he was crying; then you’ll spend the next two months unnecessarily getting up at 2 am instead of sleeping through the night!

With the exception of toy breeds, most puppies can last a reasonable six hours even on their first night home at 8 weeks old. Your opportunity to encourage this is in the five hours before bedtime. Let’s say you’d like to sleep from 11 pm to 5 am that first week. Set yourself up for success by making sure you don’t feed anything (much) after 6 pm, and taking up the water bowl at 7 pm, allowing some sips after that but no sustained gulping. Then, sometime after 10 pm, go outside for a nice, exuberant, 15-minute romp and play session where pup can fully eliminate. Movement encourages full emptying! A quick, lazy step off of the back patio steps with a tiny tinkle is truly not the same thing and could result in a pup who really does have to eliminate again at 2 am.

Note: A puppy with a urinary tract infection or diarrhea obviously can’t hold it. Also, a pup who is awake and agitated for any of the other reasons on this list will start moving around, and that indeed may make it likely that he feels the need to eliminate. But a calm, quiet pup can typically last six hours.

Is There Too Much Noise or Light?

A puppy sleeps in a crate dimmed by a blanket over the top of it.
Covering your puppy’s crate with a blanket, or installing blackout shades in the room where she sleeps, can help her sleep in past dawn. Using a fan or white noise machine to mask birdsong or other noises can also help her sleep later in the morning. Photo by Kathy Callahan

To increase your odds of solid sleep and a regular puppy sleep schedule, create a quiet, dark experience for your puppy. If she’s jolted awake by noise or light she’ll be either worried or excited, neither of which promotes sleep. A puppy full of questions – What was that? Are we all getting up? Is somebody playing somewhere? Is it time for breakfast? – is not a restful puppy. So block all of that input as best you can:

  • Use a noise machine or a fan to mask other sounds. (In the spring, bird song that wakes up a puppy up too early is a real issue!)
  • Keep lights off, use room-darkening shades/curtains, and/or put a blanket over the pup’s crate.
  • Plan ahead to minimize your own movement. If you, your partner, and your puppy are sleeping in the same room, everybody goes to sleep at once. Lights out; no talking. And don’t drink a glass of water before bed that will have you trekking to the bathroom at 3 am. (This is not forever! It’s just for when pup is getting used to the routine.)

Is Your Puppy Napping at 8 pm?

One reason your pup may not be sleeping through the night is because he’s simply not tired! A very common issue is the dreaded 8 pm nap. Many puppies are absolutely wiped out at 8 pm, so they take a whopper of a nap. Their family frankly enjoys the respite from puppy antics, then wakes the pup at 10 pm for a bathroom break. After that, it’s sometimes hard for the puppy to settle down again, or, if he does, he no longer needs a giant sleep because he just got two big hours.

To combat this, think about slight adjustments to the schedule. We don’t want to force a puppy to stay awake at 8, but we can encourage an earlier, shorter nap. Maybe 6 pm to 7 pm in the crate with dinner in the form of a food-stuffed frozen Toppl, so that the nice chewing leads to sleep? Follow with an evening walk, maybe a little play with a neighbor dog, maybe some tug?

There are a million variations you can come up with, but the point is to think about manipulating this baby’s sleep schedule to your advantage by gently tweaking the rest/activity periods throughout the rest of the day.

Is Your Puppy Tired Enough?

Of course, a natural way to make sure your pup is sleepy at night is to increase the energy expended during the day. Small changes can make a big difference for the youngest of puppies. Add enrichment (and tire her out) with things like:

  • A 10-minute playdate with a neighbor dog.
  • A 10-minute visit to a friend’s house.
  • A 10-minute walk in the local shopping center.
  • Three 3-minute treat-filled training sessions.
  • Meals offered not in a boring bowl but in a form that requires foraging and chewing (such as with a snuffle mat, scatter feeding, a LickiMat, etc.).

A wonderfully full day of activity can promote a nice full night of rest and prevent waking too early.

Is Your Puppy Too Hungry?

Sometimes it’s a growling tummy that’s waking up an otherwise sleepy pup. If you’re in the habit of feeding breakfast the second your pup wakes up, you might want to re-think that. As humans know, a stomach that is used to eating at a certain time learns to feel hungry at that time.

I like to set a regular puppy meal time that’s much later, well after the whole household is up. That way both her brain and her tummy won’t associate the moment of waking with eating.

Make sure to truly feed enough during the day. After five years of running a puppy playgroup, I can tell after half an hour when a puppy’s not being fed enough: they are more bitey, more jumpy, less focused, less able to wait their turn, and less able to shake off the minor insults that can result during social play.

When I ask their surprised (and super responsible) owners to just indulge me and give an extra feeding every day the next week, every single time they come back and say some version of this: “Oh my gosh. He’s a different dog. Not only is he biting and jumping less, but he’s finally sleeping all night!”

So why do people underfeed their puppies? It happens because one size does not fit all, because we are (rightly) worried about adult obesity, and because it’s pretty shocking how much food a puppy eats! But they are growing, not at a uniform pace, and not exactly like the puppy next door. So look at the individual in front of you, and make sure he’s not hungry all day!

A Healthy Puppy Sleep Schedule

Keep in mind that sleep deprivation can cause problematic behavior and moods in puppies as well as in the people who live with them! Addressing all of the most common impediments to a puppy’s good night’s sleep should put him (and you!) on track for a restful night – which everyone needs to remain healthy and happy.

Are Dogs’ Mouths Cleaner Than Humans’?

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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Woman's leg injured by a dog bite
Any dog bite that breaks the skin can cause a potentially serious infection, as dogs can host several pathogenic bacteria species in their mouths. Photo by RapidEye, Getty images

Many people have been told that dogs’ mouths are cleaner than a human’s mouth, but this is a myth! Dogs’ mouths contain just as many bacteria as our own. Most of these bacteria are specific to dogs, meaning that they prefer to colonize the canine species and not humans. But there are some bacteria in a dog’s mouth that can cause infections in humans if given the right opportunity.

One of the perfect opportunities for infection is when a dog bites a human hard enough to break the skin – a protective barrier that usually prevents bacteria from entering the body. A break in the skin – like that caused by a dog’s teeth – allows bacteria to enter the body and potentially cause an infection. It’s important to treat dog bites properly to prevent infection; see “First Aid for Dog Bites,” below.

 

First Aid for Dog Bites

Follow these steps if you are bitten by a dog:

  1. Wash the wound thoroughly with soap and warm water.
  2. Apply an antibiotic ointment or cream and cover the wound with a clean bandage.
  3. Check the wound at least twice a day. Signs of infection include redness, swelling, discharge, increased pain, or foul odor. If you notice any of these signs, seek medical attention immediately.

Seek medical attention immediately if:

  1. The wound is deep or the skin is crushed or torn.
  2. The wound is bleeding significantly.
  3. You are unsure of the rabies vaccination status of the dog who bit you.
  4. You have not had a tetanus vaccine in more than 10 years (5 years if the wound is dirty).

If you are not sure about the seriousness of your wound, don’t take chances; consult with your healthcare professional.

The top three bacterial species found in infected dog bite wounds are Pasteurella, Streptococcus, and Staphylococcus. Other common bacterial species isolated from infected dog bite wounds include Neisseria, Corynebacterium, Fusobacterium, and Porphyromonas.

Another opportunistic bacteria found in the mouths of dogs and humans is Capnocytophaga. According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), Capnocytophaga from a dog’s mouth does not typically cause infections in people, even in bite wounds. However, people with compromised immune systems or who are pregnant, very young (less than 5 years of age), or seniors (65 years of age or older) are at increased risk of developing an infection from Capnocytophaga. Individuals at increased risk of developing an infection from Capnocytophaga should not allow their dog to lick them. Small breaks in the skin (such as cuts or other wounds) can allow bacteria to enter the body. Allowing dog saliva to have contact with an at-risk individual’s mouth, nose, or eyes can also increase the risk of infection from Capnocytophaga. For more information about this infection, see the CDC’s page on Capnocytophaga.

Dogs who consume a raw food diet pose an additional risk if they are allowed to lick their humans. Raw food is more likely to be contaminated with the bacteria Salmonella, Escherichia coli, or Listeria monocytogenes.These bacteria can reside in the mouths of dogs who consume raw food. Dogs may inadvertently spread bacteria from raw food to their humans through the simple act of licking their faces.

So, let’s bust that myth about dog mouth cleanliness! Dogs’ mouths are just as dirty and full of bacteria as the mouths of humans. But for most people (and their dogs!) being licked by their dog should not be a major issue.

Just Do Your Best

By
Nancy Kerns
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2
The author's cute brown dog perched over a cliff looking at the picture taker.
We are responsible for everything we expose our dogs to, whether we are aware of the risks of our choices or not. This knowledge should guide, but not paralyze us. Photo by Nancy Kerns

When we make decisions that affect our health – our diet, supplements, exercise, how often we see our doctors – we rarely see the effects of our choices on a timetable that drastically demonstrates the wisdom or folly of those decisions. I mean, sure, if we take up motorcycle racing or some other extreme sport and we get seriously injured, folks may judge our choices. And if we suddenly make a big change in our diet and exercise routine, we can lose a lot of weight in a relatively short amount of time – but usually, it takes too long to determine whether even a very dramatic weight loss (or gain!) has significantly changed our lifespan.

But the decisions we make for our dogs feel much more fraught. Because their lifespans are just a fraction of ours, we may well see the direct results of the choices we’ve made for their health – and they may feel heavily, crushingly consequential. It is our responsibility to do all the things that will keep them well and long-lived, and when their lives are threatened or shortened by something as a result of the choices we made, or failed to make, the guilt can be devastating. Was it the topical pesticides you used to protect them from fleas and ticks that caused their cancer? Was it the leptospirosis vaccine you declined that led to their contracting the disease and dying of kidney or liver failure? The food you kept buying that turned out to contain heavy metals or melamine that poisoned them – that’s on your conscience!

Maybe this is why folks get so judgey and vehement on social media about every little thing we do with our dogs, from training tools to vaccinations, food to pesticides, neutering to rawhide chews. There are so many decisions to make for our dogs, and they really are consequential . . .

But, look: We can only do what we can do with what we know. The mere fact that you’ve subscribed to WDJ means you are already doing more than the average owner to educate yourself about the practices that can – we hope – enhance, preserve, and extend your dog’s life. No one can make perfect decisions about every aspect of their dogs’ lives; we’ve all made choices for our dogs that haunted us later. If only we had asked for an abdominal ultrasound after his first symptoms, if only we hadn’t let him off-leash that day, if only we hadn’t bought that particular chewie . . . No, stop. All we can do is keep learning and be kind to ourselves, our dogs, and each other. We are all at different stages of learning, and no one is perfect.

Parallels between Force-Free Training and Gentle Parenting

By
Nancy Kerns
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2
Cheerful mother and son Black ethnicity petting their Maltese dog
Kindness, respect, and clear communication can help everyone get along better with each other, no matter the size or species. Photo by miodrag ignjatovic, Getty Images

Have you heard of “gentle parenting?” If so, you may have been introduced to the term as I have been: through a comedian making fun of it. When I first heard the term, I couldn’t tell you everything that it entails, but I recognized the snark, condescension, and ridicule that it engenders, because that’s how early devotees of force-free training were treated by dog owners who couldn’t conceive of training their dogs without punishment.

Whether it’s a parent dealing with a toddler in midst of a meltdown or an owner dealing with a dog who is over threshold in the face of something stressful or scary for that dog, if the person is remaining patient and kind, it’s somehow triggering for many people!

But the more I’ve looked into gentle parenting, the more enamored I am of this movement, and the more parallels between its strategies and force-free dog training I see.

It’s also referred to as “connection-based parenting” – which sounds a lot like “relationship-based dog training.” The underlying principle in both is to take pains to avoid doing things that will make your child or dog fear or distrust you.

Both philosophies are often misunderstood as being permissive or boundary-free. Neither of those descriptions are accurate, but the way that behavior is shaped and influenced is free of commands and verbal or physical punishments.

Gentle parenting and force-free training emphasize empathy for the other as critical. I love that! A dog owner who can’t appreciate how much dogs need to smell things or chew things or get some off-leash exercise sometimes is never going to be as patient and understanding with their dog as someone who knows that these behaviors are part of a dog’s genetic inheritance.

When I was hired to edit Whole Dog Journal, I wasn’t familiar with force-free training, but I steeped myself in the newly emerging literature and sought out every educational conference and workshop I could find to learn more about it and bring it to our readers. And I found that almost everything I learned had relative equivalents in how I wanted to raise my son, who was just 4 years old when WDJ was launched. Through positive dog training, I learned to “catch him doing something right” – to notice and reinforce the behaviors that I wanted to see more of (like picking up his toys, sharing and playing nicely with his friends, brushing his teeth without being prompted to do so, reading books, and so on). This didn’t mean I gave him a treat every time he did these things, but I would offer some reinforcement, such as some warm praise, attention, a comforting touch, or eye contact and a smile.

I often say that my son grew up into a smart, successful, loving, responsible human being thanks to positive dog training, but I see now that it was actually gentle parenting all long. Don’t make fun of something that works and feels so much better than a domineering or punishing relationship.

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The Velcro Dog

By
Linda Aloi
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0
A velcro dog is one that constantly demands attention. Some breeds are famous for this but it can be a sign of separation anxiety.
A confident Velcro dog will understand that sometimes you must leave the house, but you will be back. A special spot or crate where he can wait sometimes helps the transition. Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images

A “Velcro dog” wants to be where you are, no matter what and no matter where. Many of these dogs follow their owners from room to room, even into the bathroom. Some breeds, like the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, just naturally desire closeness. My dogs are always in the same room as me. As I write this article, they’re all settled in my office for a nice nap. But they’re equally fine with my husband or home alone. They desire closeness, but they’re confident when alone, too.

Separation Anxiety

When you leave your home, a healthy Velcro/clingy dog quietly waits for his owner to return. If he destroys the home and/or injures himself when you’re not in his sight, it’s a problem. This is called separation anxiety.

A dog with separation anxiety may engage in behavior that destroys household items and even harms himself. This dog may need behavior training and/or medication. Note: An older but often referenced study found that separation anxiety doesn’t develop just because a dog is “spoiled,” but it is more likely to occur in homes with one dog and one human.

Pain or Discomfort

If your dog changes and needs to be by your side every minute, and it is out of character for him to behave like this, then perhaps he’s not feeling well. If a dog is in pain, he may go to his owner for comfort. Bring him to the veterinarian to make sure there’s nothing wrong with him.

Fear

Another reason a dog might suddenly find the need to stick to you like Velcro is fear or an unsettling household change:

  • Is there a new member of the household that the dog is uncomfortable with?
  • An uncle that’s a little too rough or loud?
  • A new baby that makes high pitched noises?
  • Are you having workers in the house?
  • A toddler who just learned to stomp and throw toys and scream?
  • Or maybe the new puppy is just too much for your older dog (or vice versa).

My dogs were clingier while we were having noisy house repairs done, with strange men hammering all day. My dogs never left my side until the workers started bringing them (owner-approved!) treats. Dogs like routine. And any time that routine changes, it can cause him angst, and he will seek protection from you. Or he may think he’s protecting you.

Many rescue dogs or puppy-mill dogs, who have finally found their forever home, get anxious when they are asked to leave your side. They need to be close to you every minute because they are insecure and possibly fearful. Who knows what kind of environment they have experienced in the past?

When you leave, they are not sure if you will be back, so they don’t want to let go. Hopefully, they will learn that you return every time, and they will be able to rest while you’re gone. Often, medications from your vet will help to relieve the anxiety until they feel that you are not deserting them.

For some of these dogs, teaching them you will be back is as simple as practicing. You leave them alone for 20 seconds and return and give them a treat. You gradually increase the time away, over the course of a week or two, until they realize that, “Oh, Mom is leaving! She’ll be back and I will get a treat.”

Many dogs also relax more if they go to their spot or their cozy crate before you leave. It keeps them safe, and it reminds them that this is what they do while you’re away from home and, when you return, you’ll let them out.

Classes can Help a Velcro Dog

Several dogs enrolled in my Basic class each session cling to their handlers out of fear. They just cannot come out from behind their owners. We simply carry on with the class, have fun and play with toys, with dogs getting lots of treats for doing simple exercises. Eventually, the shy dog takes interest in the class and wants to join in. Within six weeks, we have a more confident pet who is a little less clingy.

There was one Chihuahua, however, that I remember from a few years ago, who never came out from behind his owner. The owner came to class each week, her dog hiding behind her. She learned how to teach various exercises, went home and taught Muffin. The result was a very shy, albeit very well-trained dog. And everyone was happy.

I hope that you are lucky enough to have a dog who loves you so much he wants to be by your side, is comfortable with you leaving him at home for a bit, and greets you with barking, spins, and kisses when you arrive back at home. And as the moon rises, it finds you cuddled up together in a chair under a warm blanket.

Pyometra in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Little cute puppies papillon on green grass
The bacterial infection pyometra occurs in unspayed female dogs and requires antibiotics and, possibly, a surgical spay to cure it. Credit: Mallivan | Getty Images

Pyometra is a bacterial infection of the dog’s uterus. It can be life-threatening and requires prompt veterinary attention. It occurs in unspayed dogs although, rarely, in a spayed dog. If it occurs in a spayed dog, it’s because a small piece of uterus remained after the spay and that is still susceptible to infection (this is called “stump pyometra”).

 

Symptoms of pyometra in dogs include:

  • Increased water intake
  • Lack of appetite
  • Lethargy/weakness
  • Fever
  • Vomiting
  • Painful abdomen (may be distended)
  • Possible purulent discharge from the vagina

Causes of Pyometra

Pyometra develops when infectious bacteria invade the uterus. This is most common shortly after a heat. The cervix is loose during a heat, so bacteria easily gain access to the uterus, and the uterine lining is built up enough during heat to provide the perfect growth medium for bacteria, E coli in particular.

Diagnosis of Pyometra in Dogs

Diagnosis is generally done via a veterinary exam with palpation of the abdomen followed by radiographs or ultrasound. The uterus will appear distended. Bloodwork, especially a complete blood count (CBC), will indicate an infection.

Antibiotics to Treat Pyometra

Since it’s a bacterial infection, antibiotics are prescribed. While it’s preferable for the veterinarian to do a culture and sensitivity test to choose one, time is often of the essence, so your veterinarian may make the decision based on what has worked well in the past.

The most commonly used antibiotics, according to a survey of 152 veterinarians, published in Veterinary Medicine and Science (May 2023), are:

  • Amoxicillin/clavulanate potassium (86%)
  • Enrofloxacin (52%)
  • Cefazolin (37%)
  • Ampicillin/sulbactam (22%).

Closed Pyometra

Some dogs will have “closed pyo,” which means the cervix is tight enough to prevent any discharge. This can complicate both diagnosis and treatment.

The most common treatment for this is an ovariohysterectomy or spay. Note: This surgery is more complicated than a standard spay because the dog’s uterus is swollen with pus and the tissues are friable and fragile. In addition, the dog is fighting systemic illness from a serious infection. She will need to be on IV fluids, monitored carefully throughout surgery and post op, and receive antibiotics to fight the infection.

Open Pyometra

In “open pyo,” the cervix is not closed and the purulent material is draining out. In these cases, medical management with the use of prostaglandins may be attempted. This is most common with a valuable brood bitch whose owners would like another litter. If medical treatment is not successful, surgery is necessary.

How to Show Your Dog You Love Them

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Cheerful young African American man showing love to his dog a Rhodesian Ridgeback.
If your dog leans into your hands, it’s a clear sign they enjoy the contact they have with you. Note that not all dogs like being petted on the head, but if your dog does, pet away! Credit DjelicS, | Getty Images

Humans tend to naturally want to demonstrate their love with hugs, petting, and cuddles – and some dogs love being hugged, petted, and cuddled, too! But others don’t. The best way to show your dog your love is to pay close attention to what she likes and then provide the kind of touch, eye contact, and interaction that she enjoys best – and to avoid imposing your preferred or unconscious way of petting or play on a dog who signals that she is uninterested or avoidant.

To determine what kind of touch and attention she really loves, try a “consent test”: Sit near your dog. When your dog approaches you, initiate contact. The best first contact is usually a scratch on the chest (not on top of the dog’s head, few dogs like that!). Scratch or pet her for about three seconds, then remove your hand. If your dog moves closer or nudges your hand and has a relaxed facial expression, she is inviting more physical contact.

If you have a lap snuggler, by all means, indulge. If your dog prefers scratches under the chin or a calming massage, do that. If she likes making direct eye contact with you, spend long moments gazing lovingly into her eyes.

Dogs can change their minds, so even if yours invited additional petting at first, be alert for signs that she has had enough and wants the petting to stop. If she moves away, let her go! Think about where and how you were petting her when she decided to move away; she may not like that particular type of contact! (For more detailed information about consent testing, see, “Does Your Dog Opt In? How to Communicate With Your Dog.”)

Loving Alternatives to Touch

Be aware that some dogs would rather not be touched at all! If your dog is one of these, show her that you love her with activities that she enjoys. The more adventures that she enjoys with you the most strongly she will associate you with the pleasure she feels during these activities.

If walks are her favorite activity, commit to regular walks in the woods or “sniffari” adventures, giving her as much time to smell all the smells that she wants. If she prefers rousing games of tug, fetch, or find-the-hidden treat, try to indulge in these games at least once a day, if not more, if only for a few minutes each time.

Don’t forget training! Relaxed, fun, force-free training can make your dog feel connected, understood, and loved by you! It’s communication, after all. Plus, a well-trained dog can enjoy many privileges: visits to homes of friends and family, public outings around other dogs and humans and other animals, and even off-leash hikes and canine sports.

Keep in mind that even if it’s well intentioned, old-fashioned training that uses coercion or the faulty “dominance” concept has been scientifically demonstrated to damage a dog’s well-being and quality of life. A happy voice, warm praise, clear cues (rather than “commands”), and gentle handling will tell your dog you love her. Force-free tools and methods that help build relationships based on mutual trust, respect, consent, and cooperation are a true demonstration of your love for your dog.

Can Dogs Have Butter?

By
Brittany Kleszynski, DVM
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2
Sheepdog sniffing butter on kitchen table
Eating butter can make your dog sick, even sick enough to get pancreatitis, a painful inflammation of the pancreas. Credit: Rosmarie Wirz | Getty Images

Dogs love butter as much as we do, but butter is high in fat and not easily digested by dogs. Although butter is not toxic to dogs, it can make them sick if they ingest large amounts. Repeatedly offering your dog butter can lead to obesity, chronic pancreatitis, high cholesterol, and heart disease. Although we like to spoil our pups, take butter off the treats list, and there are far better ways to help him gain weight, if needed.

Symptoms in Dogs Who Ate Butter

Dogs who ate a small amount of butter may not have any symptoms. However, dogs who ingested larger amounts may experience vomiting and diarrhea. Your dog may have a decreased appetite, a painful belly, and a lethargic demeanor. If the butter was salted, many dogs will drink and urinate more often. Symptoms of pancreatitis include loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, and abdominal pain.

What Will a Veterinarian Do If My Dog Ate Butter?

Depending on the size of your dog and how much butter he ate, your veterinarian may advise you to bring your dog in immediately for treatment or may recommend you monitor him at home for signs of gastrointestinal upset.

If he has to go into the clinic, a physical exam and bloodwork will be performed first. Depending on how sick he is, he may receive intravenous fluids, pain relief, and antinausea medications while hospitalized. These treatments will be continued until he is feeling better.

Reading Stressed Dog Body Language

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Worried dog face, nervous dog in car, scared dog in backseat of car. Conceptual image for anxiety, worry, and nervous traveler. Purebred dog is a Cavapoo, small dog breed poodle mix. Dog in backseat of care, anxiously waiting to be taken to the vet.
A stressed dog usually shows you the most with his face, including possible whites of the eyes, down or back ears, and a generalized tense look. But some dogs also tremble, whine, and withdraw. Credit: Jenna Ardell | Getty Images

Whining is often an indication of stress, but it’s your dog’s body language that tells you the most. Watch your dog, starting from the tip of his nose. Stressed dogs lick their noses nose and lips frequently, pant (without being hot or having just exercised), and frequently yawn.

Many dogs will avoid eye contact, show white around their eyes (whale eye or side eye), or have dilated pupils. Ears pinned back tightly often indicate an anxious, uncomfortable dog.

Dog Turns Away

Often a stressed dog will turn his head or even his whole body away, likely hoping to avoid any confrontation. He may sniff to appear uninterested in a worrisome situation. His hair may loosen, so he suddenly “sheds” when you pet him in a stressful situation. The tail may be tucked tightly underneath and up against his body. He literally may be shaking or trembling.

The dog may pace, if possible. You may also notice:

  • Barking
  • Circling
  • Compulsive licking at a limb creating a “lick sore”
  • Cowering
  • Destructive behavior like tearing up his bed or destroying household things
  • Diarrhea
  • Dilated pupils
  • Excessive drooling
  • Flattened ears
  • Front paw lifting
  • Head shaking
  • Heavy panting
  • House soiling
  • Losing control of bladder or bowels
  • Loss of appetite
  • Low activity
  • Nose licking
  • Obsessively licking one spot
  • Refusing to look directly at something
  • Restlessness/pacing
  • Scratching himself
  • Shut down (withdrawn, unresponsive to stimuli and people)
  • Shying away from/refusing to move toward something
  • Trembling
  • Vomiting bile
  • Whining/vocalizing
  • Withdrawal from family/less interactive
  • Yawning (when obviously not sleepy)

How to Help a Stressed Dog

If you notice any signs of stress in your dog, remove him from what is causing the distress, if possible. That may mean walking away or doing a detour around a scary area. You must be his advocate and step between him and whatever is concerning him, whether it’s people, other animals, or a physical situation. Once he’s moved away and seems to be settling, let him look at the stressor.

Controlling your dog’s stress is a health measure because chronic stress can cause high blood pressure, gastroenteritis, weight loss, delayed healing of injuries, less resistance to infections, and sometimes to the development of obsessive-compulsive habits such as licking or chewing.

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