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What Foods Are Toxic To Dogs?

portrait of a cute purebred puppy chihuahua eating fruit
It doesn’t matter if he likes them or not! Grapes can kill your dog. Credit: Cynoclub | Getty Images

What foods are toxic to dogs? More than you may realize! While ingesting something he shouldn’t, like a dead animal carcass, is probably going to make your dog sick, eating a toxin can cause his death.

Dog owners frequently ask about:

 

  • Are grapes toxic to dogs? Yes. They’re deadly, but research has yet to pin down how many grapes it takes. Don’t feed grapes!
  • Are raisins toxic to dogs? Yes (they’re dried grapes).
  • How much onion is toxic to dogs? A medium onion could kill a medium dog.
  • Is garlic toxic to dogs? Yes. It’s lethal at even smaller amounts than an onion.
  • Are almonds toxic to dogs? No, but they are difficult for your dog to digest and may cause a bowel obstruction.

The point is, watch what your dog eats, and if you’re not sure and see signs of poisoning, get to a veterinarian immediately or call a poison control center (it will cost you, but your dog is worth it).  Even veterinarians call these centers for advice because time truly is of the essence in a poison case:

Almost all these substances cause vomiting and/or diarrhea, symptoms that should at least get your attention. Others cause depression, panting or respiratory depression, tremors, or weakness, especially of the hind legs. If those symptoms develop, your dog probably needs immediate veterinary attention.

Common Foods That are Toxic to Dogs

You might be surprised that the most common foods that are dangerous to dogs are common in most households. Here are 10 common foods that the National Library of Medicine says are toxic to your dog:

  • Onions, whether raw, cooked, or powdered. They contain a compound (n-propyl disulfide) that breaks down red blood cells, the cells that provide oxygen to tissues.
  • Garlic is about five times more toxic than onions, even though microdoses have been used by some researchers to promote health.
  • Chives are, like onions and garlic, a member of the Allium family. Symptoms include lethargy and depression, pale gums, rapid breathing, elevated heart rate, vomiting and diarrhea.
  • Chocolate contains theobromine, which is similar to caffeine. It can cause heart issues, tremors, seizures, and death. Dark and unsweetened chocolate are the most dangerous.
  • Caffeine is the active ingredient in coffee. Who knows why you would allow Fido to drink coffee, because it causes all the problems chocolate does?
  • Tea contains caffeine, so it’s toxic. Don’t be fooled by the label “organic”- it contains caffeine, too. Herbal teas don’t contain caffeine, though.
  • Macadamia nuts. No one knows why they can cause toxicocis, but the symptoms include weakness of the hind legs, vomiting, tremors, and hyperthermia. Toxic reactions to macadamia nuts need immediate veterinary care.
  • Avocados are also great for humans but horrible for dogs. They contain persin, a fungicidal toxin not harmful to humans that causes vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. They also contain lots of fat, which dogs digest poorly, and they can choke on the large pit too.
  • Artificial sweetener (xylitol or birch sugar) causes a drop in blood sugar in 15 to 30 minutes, so he’ll need immediate veterinary attention before it causes weakness, staggering, seizures, liver failure and even death.
  • Alcohol causes much the same symptoms as in humans–only worse–because their liver is much smaller.

If that’s not enough, many common plants are toxic to your dog. Rat poison, of course, is deadly, especially if it’s the really bad stuff. Frogs can make dogs sick, while toads can kill them. And summer’s coming! Beware of blue-green algae.

How to Give a Dog a Pill

Man's hand giving cute small black and white dog medicine, pills for arthritis. The owner feeds the dog from his hand.
Giving your dog a pill is as easy as finding his favorite treat and burying the pill in it. If the pill is large, cut it into multiple pieces and place them in multiple treats. Credit: Snizhana Galytska | Getty Images

Sometimes, giving your dog a pill is unavoidable. Maybe the medication isn’t available in another form (although it often is) or the cost difference between the pill and other forms of the medication is prohibitive. Ask your veterinarian whether the medication can be compounded into a suspension (liquid) or flavored chewable tablet, but if a pill is the only option, know that sticking your hand in the dog’s mouth is truly not a wise choice.

 

Pill Disguises

The most common method is to bury the pill in an irresistable treat. The more high-value and tastier the treat, the better. High-value treats include:

  • Canned dog or cat food
  • Baby food
  • Baked chicken that is moist enough to engulf the pill
  • Soft cheese, like string cheese
  • Hot dogs
  • Pill pockets (homemade or commercial)

If the pill is large, cut it into multiple pieces and place them in several treats. You can also pulverize the pill and mix it into canned food.

Try a Pet Piller

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Sometimes a pet piller can help, especially if your dog will not take it in food. Manually pilling your dog may become necessary if he is not willing to swallow the pill on his own, and a pet piller like the VetOne Pet Piller can help if your dog still refuses the pill in a treat. After using the piller to get the pill in the back of your dog’s throat, you can massage his throat after he begins the swallowing process to stimulate swallowing

When learning how to give your dog a pill, aim to complete the experience as positively as possible, and this video from a veterinary clinic does an excellent job showing you exactly how to do both give pills and keep things positive. Remember to follow the pilled treat with a regular treat and lots of praise.

What NOT to Say to Shelter and Rescue Workers

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The lobby of an animal shelter crowded with people.
The lobby at shelters can be a very crowded and highly charged environment, as often-emotional people are bringing in stray animals (who may be hurt, sick, and/or starving), others are trying to surrender animals, others are retrieve their impounded animals, and others are trying to happily adopt animals. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Whenever I spend any time at my local animal shelter as a volunteer, I am filled with empathy and admiration for the people who work at the front desk. The drama they witness! The tragedies they must deal with! The hostility they have to endure at times!

All day, every day, front-desk shelter workers are confronted with people who are sad and upset and/or angry and frustrated. Perhaps most frequently, they deal with people who are upset about having to pay money to retrieve their dogs, whether the dog had been brought into the shelter by a member of the public who saved the dog from trotting down the middle of a busy road, or had been picked up by an animal control officer from the yard of a citizen whose cat had been killed by the dog. Fees are charged for holding dogs, and for a lack of proof of rabies vaccination and/or licensing, and these fees are deliberately set at higher rates for intact animals (both as a lever to encourage people to spay/neuter their pets, and to help address the cost of the puppies that often result from the adventures of intact dogs who have gone astray).

All I can say is, if my dog had been running at large and someone caught him and brought him to the shelter, I’d be thrilled that he had been apprehended and removed from all the potential dangers of the streets. But if my dog had been what the shelter calls a “frequent flier” – constantly escaping and getting caught running at large – I could see how those fines would be upsetting. But the fines are not set by the front-counter staff, and it’s not their fault that the dog got out!

As daunting as it may be to deal with people who are angry when retrieving their animals, I think that it may be even more stressful for front-counter workers at the shelter to deal with people who are trying to rid themselves of unwanted dogs and/or puppies.

Don’t get me wrong; there are plenty of valid and very sad reasons that can cause people to surrender dogs to the shelter – and I’ve seen how kind the intake staff can be at those times.

But it’s the people who either lie and try to pass off their own dogs or puppies as strays that someone else “dumped” on their property, or who are hostile and combative when staffers ask for a surrender fee for taking the unwanted dogs or pups that I would find most challenging. These folks don’t care that the shelter spends an average of $300 per animal on vaccinations, medications for sick animals, flea-control products, dewormers, a microchip, and spay/neuter surgery – they are often pissed when asked to fork over half of that cost as a surrender fee.

I was present at the shelter one day when I saw a woman storm out of the lobby into the parking lot screaming over her shoulder, “F*** you! This is your job! Just do your damn jobs!” When I asked my friend at the front counter what made the woman so mad, he shrugged and said, “We told her that we couldn’t take her dogs today – the shelter is 100% full – and she just hit the roof. We told her we could call her back when we have room, but she wanted to surrender three dogs right now!” The shelter workers can offer other alternatives or ideas to people who are in a bind with animals that they can’t keep, but they are somewhat unmotivated to do so when someone is screaming at them for their failure to immediately solve a problem of that other person’s creation.

Many times at the shelter, I have thought, “I could never work here! I’d never be able to keep calm with some of the people the shelter staffers have to deal with!” But I don’t say that to my friends at the shelter – and I hope you don’t tell your friends in rescue or shelter anything like that, either. Because what we really mean when we say things like that – and what I do tell my friends at the shelter is, “I so admire and appreciate your work here. It looks very difficult, and you handle it with grace and grit. Thank you!”

Can Dogs Drink Oat Milk?

Adorable, pretty puppy and handsome man preparing a healthy breakfast. Closeup, indoors. Day light, studio photo. Concept of care pet and healthy, delicious food
Many dogs like oats, making homemade oat milk a healthy treat. Credit: Sviatlana Barchan | Getty Images

Oat milk can be good for dogs. It’s a lactose-free dairy alternative for humans that dogs also can enjoy, but in moderation.

Oat milk without additives has fewer calories, fat, and protein per serving than regular whole milk and can be nutritious treat for your dog. Start slowly, though, and check with your vet first if your dog has any health conditions like diabetes or special needs.

Oat Milk for Dogs

Diana Laverdure-Dunetz, a vegan canine nutritionist in Florida, recommends serving your dog homemade oat milk made from only two ingredients: organic, certified gluten-free oats and water.

That means the best oat milk for your dog is homemade. Commercial oat milk products may contain ingredients that are unsafe or unhealthy for dogs, like added sugars, preservatives, flavors, oils, and thickeners. Recipes are abundant online, and it’s a fairly simple process.

“Oat milk contains a type of soluble fiber called beta-glucans, which offers many health benefits, including stimulating the immune system, protecting against infectious diseases, fighting cancer, and helping stabilize blood sugar levels. Soluble fiber also offers a variety of gastrointestinal benefits, including controlling large bowel diarrhea and promoting a healthy gut microbiome. Oats also contain antioxidant compounds that protect cells from oxidation and are a good source of many vitamins and minerals.”

Problems With Oat Milk for Dogs

Obviously, dogs with a food intolerance to oats should not have oat milk. Laverdure-Dunetz also says oat milk should never be given to puppies because they should rely on their mother’s milk. Also, since oat milk contains fiber, too much may cause gastrointestinal upset in some dogs.

Susan Blake Davis, a California-based pet nutritionist adds that some dogs may have difficulty digesting plant-based milk alternatives and have gastrointestinal upset, although this reaction could be due to the grain content, vegetables oils, or gums added to commercial oat milk.

How to Serve

Davis says the sweet taste and texture of oat milk may make it useful for administering liquid supplements or medication. Used like this and, depending upon the size of the dog, a 1/2 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon might work.

Laverdure-Dunetz says there are no studies on upper safety limits of oat milk for dogs, but oat milk should be viewed as a treat, so should not comprise more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily calories.

Fun with Oat Milk for Dogs

You can integrate homemade oat milk into your dog’s diet by creating a dog-friendly smoothie with oat milk, kale, and blueberries, or freeze it in ice cube trays for a delicious hot-weather treat. You can even substitute it for cow’s milk in your dog’s favorite home-baked treats or whip up a batch of fluffy oat milk “puppy pancakes.”

Supplies for Dog Grooming at Home

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A mature woman is standing behind a bench with a dog sitting on a towel on the bench. She is grooming the dog.
For smaller dogs, especially, it’s easier to groom your dog when he’s on a higher surface, however, be sure that it’s a non-slip surface or place a non-slip mat under him. Some shower mats work well for this. Credit: Marianne Purdie | Getty Images

Dog grooming at home is not difficult, but you do need the right grooming supplies. Besides dog nail trimming tools and a good dog grooming scissor kit to trim hair on the feet, face, and body as needed, you need a brush that is appropriate for your dog’s coat.  If you truly enjoy dog grooming at home – and are good at it – you may want to consider becoming a professional. The American Academy of Pet Grooming or the National Dog Groomers Association of America can you help you get started.

Basic Grooming Supplies for Dog Home Grooming

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Dog nail trimming tools include nail clippers and nail grinders. Use whichever you and your dog like best, or a combination of both. For ideal nail management, trim a little bit of the claw each week. One of my favorite and best nail clippers are Miller’s Forge Designer Series Nail Scissors.

Brushing should be done on a regular basis to remove dead hair and keep your dog’s coat free of tangles. How often depends a bit on your dog. A short-haired dog like a Doberman might be OK with weekly grooming, but a long-haired dog like a Sheltie often require daily grooming. It’s far easier and quicker to groom your dog more often.

A Tip for Grooming Anxious Dogs at Home

Tip: If your dog is anxious about grooming, start “grooming” with just your hand, placing your dog wherever you plan to do the actual grooming, such as on a safe table, the floor, or your lap. Let him get used to that before introducing any tools.

Other tools that you may find useful:

  • Dog blow dryer that uses cool air
  • Spray bottle to mist coat when brushing (reduces static)
  • Electric clippers for trimming
  • Shedding tools

Grooming Supplies for Short-Haired Dogs

Short-haired dogs are generally wash and wear. For dogs with a thicker coat, like a Labrador, rakes and slicker brushes are useful for removing loose hair. For dogs with a thin coat, like a Greyhound, opt for a dog grooming mitt with rubber bristles that you can use to rub your dog’s body and gently remove dead hair.

Grooming Supplies for Long-Haired Dogs

If your dog has a thick or long coat, you may need multiple brushes to manage it. Pin brushes and slickers work well for a quick “fluff and puff,” but the powerhouses are rakes and combs.

A rake with wide tines can get through dense undercoat to pull out dead hair. Then follow up with a comb to get all the way down to the skin and detangle as needed.

Tip: Mist your dog with water or a conditioning spray before brushing to reduce static and protect the hair from breakage.

Grooming shears are helpful to trim the long hair on your dog’s feet, or you can use electric clippers. If using shears, opt for a pair with blunt tips to reduce the risk of poking your dog’s skin.

If you have a Poodle, Cocker Spaniel, Shih Tzu, or other breed or mix whose hair grows a lot, it may be worth investing in a good set of electric clippers and clipper guards to shave and trim your dog’s hair at home. Note: Don’t shave your dog’s entire coat, unless instructed to do so by your veterinarian.

Groomers to the Rescue

Unsure of where to start? Contact professional groomers in your area – as your veterinarian for suggestions or check bulletin boards at local pet stores – and ask if they would be willing to teach you how to manage your dog’s coat. You will need to pay for the appointment, of course, but it is well worth it to see what tools work well for your dog’s coat type and what strategies you can use at home.

Plus, your dog will leave looking fabulous, so you start your grooming odyssey with a clean slate.

If you are nervous about certain aspects of your dog’s grooming needs, try a hybrid approach. Do maintenance coat care at home so that grooming appointments can be less often and/or less intensive.

Dog Papillomas: Viral Warts

Communal water bowls are one the most common ways for dog papillomas to spread.
Dog papillomas, aka viral warts, are contagious and can be spread through shared items, like bowls. However, a break in the skin is necessary for the virus to get a hold. Credit: Deb Parry | Getty Images

Dog papillomas are warts. These are benign little growths that are usually pink or pale in color with a cauliflower-like surface, although they can be smooth. When they are caused by a virus, they are called viral papillomas. When they occur in the mouth, they are called oral papillomas. Some warts, like the ones that develop on older dogs in random places, are not necessarily caused by a virus. These are called idiopathic non-viral papillomas or squamous papillomas.

Viral dog papillomas are contagious from dog to dog. With the dawn of dog parks and doggy day care veterinarians are seeing more cases of viral dog papillomas, especially oral papillomas in dogs. The most common papilloma virus, CPV1, is spread by direct contact with an infected dog or by sharing toys, bowls, and bedding. They are one of the reasons communal water bowls for dogs should be avoided. A break in the skin or oral mucosa is required for successful transmission. The incubation period (time from exposure to onset of symptoms) is one to two months.

Puppy Warts

Viral papillomas are most common in young dogs (under 2 years of age) and usually occur in groups or clusters in the mouth or on the muzzle, lips, eyelids and between the toes. These puppy warts are rarely a problem, most cases are mild and self-resolve within two months, which means that as long as the warts are not painful to your dog and don’t become infected, no treatment is required. Just remember they are contagious, so keep your dog away from other dogs while you wait for resolution.

Dog Papilloma Treatment

If the viral papillomas are still there after three months, treatment should be considered. Surgical removal or cryotherapy (freezing them off) are usually the treatments of choice. Other treatments that have been tried with varying success include a topical medication called imiquinod (helps the immune system fight the virus), interferon-alpha (another immune-modulating medication), azithromycin (an antibiotic that has been shown to help in some cases), cimetidine (a stomach acid-reducing medication which has shown some promise as a papilloma treatment), and, most recently, a medication called tigilanol tiglate (marketed as an injectable treatment for mast cell tumors but some suggestion it may be useful in a topical gel form for viral papilloma treatment). Torigen is a pharmaceutical company in Farmington, CT, specializing in immunotherapy for pets. They can make a vaccine for your dog using cells from your dog’s own papillomas.

Lastly, there is some thought that simply crushing one or two of the warts may help stimulate a bigger natural immune response by the dog’s body. Don’t try this yourself, however. See your veterinarian who will guide you toward the best papilloma treatment choices for you and your dog.

Dog Treadmill Choices

German pinscher running on special animal treadmill in dog fitness club
Introduce your dog gradually to using a treadmill. The best choice is a treadmill made for dogs, like this one, but smaller dogs can often use human treadmills. Credit: eAlisa | Getty Images

Working on a dog treadmill can be great exercise for your dog when a long walk just isn’t possible, such as during the winter months. The key is to introduce your dog to the treadmill slowly. For your dog’s safety on the treadmill, be sure the belt is long enough for your dog’s stride.

Choosing a Dog Treadmill

Small dogs can use a human treadmill, but larger dogs often have a stride much longer than ours. For these large dogs, a doggy treadmill made for dogs is a better choice.

Dog training treadmill choices include:

Training a Dog on Treadmill

Start treadmill dog training slowly and make it positive. You want your dog to be comfortable with the treadmill and relaxed so she can have safe and productive exercise.

  1. Practice getting on and off the stationary treadmill. Give your dog treats for getting on the treadmill, and lure her on and off it from any direction. This teaches her how to safely get off if she gets tired or stressed later.
  2. Turn the treadmill on low and feed treats next to it. This helps your dog associate positive things with the sound of the moving belt.
  3. Encourage your dog to touch the moving belt. At first, reward if she touches one paw to the belt. Gradually work up to getting on the moving belt and immediately getting off in a controlled fashion.
  4. Gradually increase the amount of time your dog stays and walks on the moving belt. Feed multiple treats to reward her, but let her get off if she gets nervous.
  5. Once your dog is comfortable walking on the treadmill, gradually increase the speed.

Treadmill Dog Training Tips

  • Use praise and treats so your dog thinks the treadmill is fun.
  • Work up to a natural trotting pace for optimal exercise.
  • Start with short sessions a couple times a day, increasing duration over time.
  • For overweight dogs, short but frequent sessions are better than a single long session.
  • Never tie your dog to the treadmill, as this can become dangerous.
  • Never force your dog to get on the treadmill.
  • Always supervise treadmill sessions.

How Does a Dog Get Pneumonia?

Small yellow dog laying down in his bed with star pattern
A dog battling pneumonia will likely be lethargic with no energy and little interest in normal activities. Credit: Kerkez | Getty Images

Pneumonia is inflammation of the lungs, usually caused by infection, resulting in the accumulation of fluid in the air sacs (alveoli) of the lungs. Certain things predispose a dog to pneumonia. Immune-compromised dogs, or dogs on immune-suppressive drugs, are more likely to succumb. Dogs fighting severe diseases like cancer are more prone to pneumonia. Dogs with neurological disorders, especially those that effect swallowing, are prone to aspiration pneumonia. Recumbent dogs who can no longer stand or walk without assistance are at greater risk of developing pneumonia.

Symptoms of Pneumonia in Dogs

Signs of pneumonia in dogs include:

  • Loss of appetite
  • Lethargy
  • Exercise intolerance
  • Trouble breathing
  • Rapid breathing
  • Cough
  • Weakness
  • Fever
  • Bluish-colored gums and tongue (cyanosis)
  • Possible nasal discharge
  • Possible weight loss

Causes of pneumonia in dogs include:

  • Infectious agents (bacterial, viral, fungal, parasitic)
  • Aspiration (food, liquid, regurgitated stomach contents)
  • Inhalation (smoke, chemical agents)

Things that predispose a dog to aspiration pneumonia include:

  • Brachycephalic breeds
  • Vomiting
  • Sedation
  • Anesthetic procedures involving endotracheal intubation
  • Larynx diseases like laryngeal paralysis
  • Esophageal neuromuscular diseases
  • Force feeding or forcing liquids
  • Gaseous distension of the stomach or “bloat”

Treating Pneumonia in Dogs

Treatment for pneumonia varies according to cause and severity, but almost always includes antibiotics.  How long to treat a dog with pneumonia is not set in stone. Some believe dogs should be treated for four to six weeks. Others start with two weeks and decide whether longer treatment is needed based on follow-up chest X-rays and bloodwork.

How long it takes a dog to get over pneumonia varies depending on the dog’s general health, nutritional status, and age. Older dogs or immune-compromised dogs generally take longer to fully recover, perhaps even months. Younger, otherwise healthy dogs generally recover more quickly, over the course of a couple of weeks.

Lenticular Sclerosis in Dogs

Old english cocker spaniels dog, close-up
As your dog ages, you may notice a bluish haze in his eyes. This is called lenticular sclerosis and is a normal part of aging. However, a veterinarian needs to make the diagnosis and rule out cataracts, which do require treatment. Credit: Elizabeth Fernandezn| Getty Images

Lenticular sclerosis in dogs, also known as nuclear sclerosis, is a normal aging change in the dog’s lenses that results in that bluish haze you see in your senior dogs’ eyes. It is not painful, and it will never make your dog blind. The important thing is to distinguish lenticular sclerosis from cataracts, which is a whole different ballgame. That’s why you should have your veterinarian examine your dog if you’re starting to notice this bluish haze.

Dog’s Normal Aging Eye

Lenticular sclerosis happens in pretty much every dog as they age. There’s really no escaping it. The lens is a dynamic structure made up of fibers within a capsule. Over time, old fibers degenerate and new fibers are laid down. Because the fibers are encased in a firm capsule and have nowhere to go, the older more central fibers get compressed, making them denser and less transparent. This is what creates that bluish haze, which usually affects both eyes equally. Fortunately, lenticular/nuclear sclerosis will never make your dog blind, although he or she will likely not see subtle things like your facial expressions as clearly and will likely not navigate as confidently in low-light situations.

Diagnosis Is Important

With the help of special light source instruments, your veterinarian can distinguish lenticular sclerosis from cataracts. This is important, as cataracts will progress to blindness and are best addressed early in their progression. Cataracts, as opposed to the benign lenticular sclerosis, can cause secondary, painful diseases in the eye like uveitis and glaucoma. Careful monitoring of dogs with cataracts is recommended, and your veterinarian may recommend a surgical consult with a veterinary ophthalmic specialist. Early surgical removal of cataracts prevents secondary issues and preserves vision for your dog.

If you’re noticing a bluish haze in your aging dog’s eyes, but he does not seem to be having any trouble seeing, the eyes appear otherwise normal, and your dog is acting otherwise fine, there is no need to panic. There is a high likelihood this is simply the lenticular sclerosis expected with age. Still, you need to see your veterinarian to confirm and rule out the less benign situation that is cataracts.

What is the Best Puppy Shot Schedule?

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two female vets preparing a labrador retriever puppy for vaccination
Taking your puppy to the veterinarian for shots is a necessity. These vaccinations protect your puppy from potentially deadly diseases like the parvo virus and rabies. Credit: fotografixx | Getty Images

Your puppy’s vaccinations can run from $100 to $200 or more, depending on where you live, your veterinarian’s policies, and which vaccines your puppy needs. A puppy shot schedule is usually based on advice from the American Animal Hospital Association, which breaks vaccines for dogs into two categories: core and non-core. Core vaccines should be given to every puppy. These include distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus (also known as hepatitis), and rabies.

Non-core vaccines are sometimes called lifestyle vaccines and may be recommended depending on where you live and what activities your puppy will be doing throughout her life. These include Bordetella (kennel cough), Lyme disease, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and canine flu.

Most vaccines need to be given at least twice, two to four weeks apart, to fully protect your puppy. The distemper/parvo combo vaccine should be given at least three times between 6 and 16 weeks of age. The rabies and Bordetella vaccines only need to be given once.

Here is a sample vaccine schedule:

8 weeks: 1st DAPP (includes distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus, +/- parainfluenza)

12 weeks: 2nd DAPP, 1st leptospirosis, rabies

16 weeks: 3rd DAPP, 2nd leptospirosis, Bordetella

The exact puppy shot schedule used for your puppy will vary depending on:

  • Your puppy’s age
  • What vaccines the breeder or rescue have already given
  • Your puppy’s unique needs
  • Your availability and preferences
  • Your veterinarian’s preferences

Should Puppy Shots Be Given All at Once?

For most healthy puppies, it is safe to give multiple vaccines at the same time. Your puppy may be tired after her appointment as her immune system processes the vaccines, but she will be back to her normal puppy antics the next day. This is generally the most economical and efficient method of vaccination.

Separating the vaccines and only giving one at a time minimizes the strain on your puppy’s immune system. The safety factor is that, when given one at a time, if your puppy has a vaccine reaction, you will know exactly which vaccine she had trouble with. (Vaccine reactions are rare.)

Giving each vaccine on its own does increase the number of trips to the vet and will likely increase your overall cost. Each visit will incur a fee for either the veterinarian to examine your pet or a veterinary technician to give the vaccine.

If you have cost concerns, talk to your veterinarian and make a plan that works for you and your puppy on your first visit. Some facilities prefer for all puppy vaccines to be given by a veterinarian, so they can observe your puppy as she grows and note any early health problems. Others are fine with a technician giving vaccines after the initial exam. Many clinics offer lower exam fees for puppies, and tech appointments are usually the least expensive.

You can also focus on the core vaccines now, so that your puppy is protected from these serious diseases and wait to add noncore vaccines later.

Does My Puppy Need All These Vaccines?

Rabies: YES!

The rabies vaccine is required by law in most states. This disease is extremely dangerous and 99.9% fatal in dogs, humans, and other mammals. The rabies vaccine for dogs cost is generally low, around $20-30.

Distemper/Parvo/Adenovirus (DAP): YES!

These three diseases are highly contagious and can be fatal. There is no treatment, and hospitalization for supportive care is often needed. All puppies should receive the vaccine series for distemper, parvo, and adenovirus.

Leptospirosis: Yes

Leptospirosis, or “lepto,” is a bacterial disease spread in the urine of infected animals. Historically dogs who hike and hunt in the woods were most at risk, but we are starting to see cases in city dogs too as it can be spread by rats. Because of this increased prevalence, the leptospirosis vaccine may be appropriate for all dogs. The vaccine protects against the most dangerous variants of the disease.

Lyme: Maybe

Lyme disease is a bacterial disease spread by ticks. It is most common in the northeastern U.S., and dogs who spend time in woods and fields are most at risk.

Bordetella: Maybe

Kennel cough is highly contagious. Dogs who spend time with many other dogs, such as at dog shows, dog parks, doggie daycare, or shelters are most at risk. Most dogs recover on their own, but puppies, senior dogs, and those with chronic illnesses may have more severe symptoms.

Canine Flu: Maybe

Like Bordetella, the different strains of canine flu are highly contagious and usually spread in areas with many dogs mingling together. If your dog goes to dog shows, dog parks, or doggie daycare, she may benefit from the canine flu vaccine.

Reducing Woody’s Weight

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Two dogs amidst brown grass of winter field.
Eight-year-old Woody (right) isn’t super fat, but because he’s often so physically exuberant, especially when playing with 2-year-old Boone (left), I worry that carrying excess weight could contribute to him tearing an ACL or something. Credit: Nancy Kerns

I have a reputation among my friends and family for telling people that their dogs are overweight – so it may come as a surprise that I have been struggling for a few months to reduce my dog Woody’s weight. He turned 8 years old in November, and it was about that time that I first noticed he was looking a little pudgy. Viewed from above, he still has an indented waist, but he’s just thicker everywhere than he used to be. A recent trip to the vet and a formal weigh-in confirmed what I already knew but had been in denial about: He weighs too much!  I need to get about 8 pounds off of his now-80-pound body.

Recently, I switched his food to a couple of lower-fat, lower-calorie products, and I’ve cut back the amount I am feeding him. I’m also making an effort to get us out for more walks (I have been struggling with weight gain, too!). I’ve also been pointedly using smaller treats for training and reinforcing his recalls and other good-manners behaviors on walks. But his weight has been staying stubbornly the same.

And, like many owners, I’ve noticed that my dieting dog is becoming increasingly food-obsessed. He clearly feels hungrier on the smaller portions.

My latest idea is to switch both dogs (Woody and Boone, whose weight is ideal) to once-a-day feeding, which has enabled me to cut their total daily portion size much more dramatically while increasing the size of the one meal per day they are eating. We’ve been at this trial for a week so far, and I must say, both dogs are taking the switch to the new regimen very well; they aren’t making a nuisance of themselves at their former dinnertime.

There is some evidence for the benefits of once-a-day feeding; I just hadn’t tried it before, as (again, like most owners), I enjoy feeding my dogs a meal when the family eats. And I should note that the study that provided information about those benefits also noted that because some of the dogs in the study may have been fed once a day for varying lengths of time, the researchers “cannot rule out the possibility that dog owners shifted to more frequent feeding in response to health conditions, and observed associations are due in whole or part to reverse causality.”

Nevertheless, given the mountains of evidence for the benefits of intermittent fasting in humans, I’m going to maintain this schedule for at least a few months – and try to increase our exercise, too – and see if it helps me get some of those excess pounds off of my darling Woody.

If you’ve managed to reduce your dog’s weight to a healthier one, how did you do it? Share your dog-diet tips!

Why Do Dogs Howl?

A husky howls in Alaska, United States, North America
Dogs howl to communicate. It could be due to excitement, pain, or simply responding to another howl (or siren!). Credit: John Elk | Getty Images

Why do dogs howl? Howling is just one of the many ways that dogs communicate. Some dogs only howl in short bursts once in a while, while others sing their wolf song loud and proud.

Wolves, coyotes, and dogs both howl socially. They might howl at the start of a hunt, or to announce their arrival or signal the location of their home den. Howling can also be a territorial declaration to tell other canines to stay off their turf.

While our pet dogs don’t need to howl for the exact same reasons as their wild cousins, dogs still howl for these purposes. Your dog might howl with excitement at the start of a walk, or to call you back home when you leave for work. She could also be communicating with other dogs in the area.

Howling May Indicate Pain

A dog howling can also indicate pain. If your dog’s howl sounds different or if howling is an unusual activity for her, a vet visit may be in order.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Night?

Dogs howling at night is no different than howling during the day. Your dog is simply communicating with you or other dogs in the area. She may also be howling out of boredom.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?

Sirens can sound very similar to a dog’s howl and may stimulate your dog to respond in kind.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”