Dogs howl to communicate. It could be due to excitement, pain, or simply responding to another howl (or siren!). Credit: John Elk | Getty Images
Why do dogs howl? Howling is just one of the many ways that dogs communicate. Some dogs only howl in short bursts once in a while, while others sing their wolf song loud and proud.
Wolves, coyotes, and dogs both howl socially. They might howl at the start of a hunt, or to announce their arrival or signal the location of their home den. Howling can also be a territorial declaration to tell other canines to stay off their turf.
While our pet dogs don’t need to howl for the exact same reasons as their wild cousins, dogs still howl for these purposes. Your dog might howl with excitement at the start of a walk, or to call you back home when you leave for work. She could also be communicating with other dogs in the area.
Howling May Indicate Pain
A dog howling can also indicate pain. If your dog’s howl sounds different or if howling is an unusual activity for her, a vet visit may be in order.
Why Do Dogs Howl at Night?
Dogs howling at night is no different than howling during the day. Your dog is simply communicating with you or other dogs in the area. She may also be howling out of boredom.
Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?
Sirens can sound very similar to a dog’s howl and may stimulate your dog to respond in kind.
If your dog is always a picky, slow eater, and he goes on strike for a meal or two, there is usually nothing urgent to be worried about – but do mention this to your veterinarian at your dog’s next wellness examination. The pickiness may indicate a chronic problem that will improve with treatment, such as a cracked tooth or a mild case of acid reflux.
If, in contrast, your dog normally has a good appetite, but suddenly stops eating his food, you should be concerned – and even more so if you dog has any other signs of illness, such as lethargy, panting, fever, signs of pain or discomfort, or diarrhea. In that case, get him to a vet! Any time our dogs change their normal behavior, there is likely something wrong that needs investigation. Ignoring early symptoms usually costs us, and our dogs.
Potential causes of a lack of appetite
There are many reasons why a dog may be reluctant to eat:
Dental disease, including broken teeth and infected gums, may cause pain when eating.
Ear infections are another source of pain that can lead to reluctance to eat, especially hard food.
Other forms of pain can cause a dog to stop eating. Panting, trembling, walking hunched over, sleeping more than usual, reluctance to run or jump, and irritability can all be signs of pain.
Dogs who are sick, including dogs with cancer and those undergoing chemotherapy, are often reluctant to eat. Kidney disease, for example, can cause nausea and gastric ulceration due to excess acidity.
If you recently opened a new bag of your dog’s regular food and he turns up his nose at it, pay attention; this could be a sign that the food is spoiled or moldy, and possibly dangerous. Do not add flavor enhancers or human meal leftovers to tempt him into eating the food he rejected, because if it turns out that the food is dangerous, he may be harmed by eating it! Even if only one dog in your household doesn’t want to eat and the rest are fine with the food, it would be safer to get a new bag and see if that solves the problem. If your dog eagerly accepts the new food, take the rejected food back to the store!
Many medications list nausea and anorexia as potential side effects. If your dog is on medication and becomes reluctant to eat, talk to your vet to see if a substitute is available, or if there is a way to make the pills easier on your dog’s stomach. For example, some meds that are normally given away from meals can be given with food instead to help with stomach upset.
Warning: In some cases, loss of appetite can be a symptom that the medication you are giving is dangerous. This is especially true in the case of NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, and even aspirin. Corticosteroids such as prednisone can cause gastrointestinal ulceration and associated inappetence.
If your dog is on any of these drugs and stops eating, you should discontinue the medication immediately (don’t stop prednisone without your vet’s OK). Get your dog to the vet, especially if other symptoms are present, such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stools, or lethargy.
Gorgeous! This young girl is using beautifully crisp body language to cue her puppy, and is ready with a treat in her other hand as a reward. Teaching your children to use clear, consistent cues and quickly marking and rewarding the resulting behavior will help your dog learn the expected behaviors very quickly. Photo by Stefan Cristian Cioata, Getty Images.
It makes good sense to have your offspring participate in your dog’s training program. After all, the kids and dogs in the household often spend the most time together. The level of your children’s participation in your dog’s training program will vary based on the age and abilities of the children. But even a toddler can hand feed a treat (or toss it on the floor if your dog takes treats too eagerly or with a hard mouth) when you mark your dog’s correct behavior in response to a cue, and the most dog-obsessed kids may even be able to do some of the training themselves under your direct supervision. Older children can do the training by themselves after they’ve been instructed by you or your trainer and you are confident that they are capable of doing it correctly.
Initial ground rules: Respecting the dog
I’m a huge fan of enlisting kids to help with the dog’s training at the earliest possible age, using positive reinforcement-based methods that teach children the importance of cooperation and respect. This interaction also strengthens the positive association between your dog and your child. Before you engage your child to assist with your dog’s training, however, they need to learn how to respect and interact appropriately with dogs (and other sentient creatures). It’s vitally important to teach children four important safety rules:
Dogs are not toys to be treated roughly or with anger.
Dogs have the right to keep their own possessions. Do not take bones, toys, or blankets away.
Dogs are not to be bothered when they are eating.
If the dog “asks” them to stop doing something (with body language such as stiffening, moving away, or growling), they must stop immediately.
If followed, these rules should keep your children and dog safe (because a dog who hurts a child in self-defense is likely to be surrendered or euthanized). If a child is too young to grasp these rules, the supervising adult must physically prevent the child from being inappropriate. For more about kid/dog safety, see “Kids and Dogs,” WDJ August 2019.
If your dog or puppy shows any sign of being uncomfortable with your child’s handling, like this Bulldog puppy is displaying (ears held back, worried expression, running away from chasing child), intervene on your dog’s behalf. Kids need to know that it is unsafe to pursue or restrain a dog who is trying to get away from their interaction.
First Training Step: Practice Known Behaviors
If your dog has already learned some behaviors, start with those. Teach your child the verbal cue for an easy behavior like “sit” (and the hand signal if the dog knows one) and then show her how to get the dog to respond. Although your dog may perform the behavior reliably for you, he may be a bit confused when the cue comes from a child. If that’s the case you can prompt or lure the behavior after your child gives the cue, and then teach her how to prompt or lure if appropriate (if she is old enough and capable).
Introducing your child to your dog’s known “sit” behavior might look something like this:
Tell your child what cue she will be using – in this case, “Sit!”
Explain that when the dog sits, the behavior gets marked and he gets a treat (depending on the child’s age and capabilities you may use a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word, “Yes!”). Be sure to explain that you have to give a treat when you mark, so the marker must only be used when the dog has done what you’ve asked. If you’re using a clicker, and your youngster delights in running around the house clicking, you may need to put the clicker away when you’re not actively training!
Have your child practice marking and then giving a treat to an imaginary dog (or a stuffed one!) before asking her to try it with your live dog. (If your dog is grabby for treats, have your child drop the treat on the floor.)
Demonstrate (a few times) the sequence with your dog: Cue the sit, mark when he sits, and feed the treat – preferably moving the treat quickly to his lips so he is still sitting when he eats it. Demonstrate also how to prompt or lure if he doesn’t sit when you ask him to.
If your child is old enough to be physically capable, have her practice the sequence. If she’s not old enough, keep giving the cues and marking and have your child feed or toss the treats, letting her participate more and more as she is able. The next step might be having her click the clicker or say “Yes!” after you’ve cued the dog and he sat.
Eventually show your child how to practice all the behaviors your dog already knows. I recommend creating a vocabulary list of all your dog’s known cues and posting them on the refrigerator for all family members who are participating in the training program to refer to so cue usage is consistent.
Worried about getting bitten (or maybe just covered with slobber), many children are tentative about giving treats to a dog or puppy, and may inadvertently draw the dog out of their cued position by holding the treat too far from the dog’s lips. Teach kids how to put the treat right onto the dog’s lips or have them toss the treat to the dog (the latter technique is recommended if the dog really is too eager when taking treats). Photo by Steve Smith, Getty Images
Teach New Behaviors
Older kids can certainly play a leading role in teaching new behaviors to the family dog, but even the younger ones can participate in the process. How much depends, of course, on both the child and the dog, but all ages of children can take pride in knowing they have taught the dog something new.
The process for teaching new behaviors is similar. Here’s how you might show your child how to teach a new “down” behavior:
Explain what cue you will be using (“Down!” – or…?), what you want the behavior to look like (dog is lying all the way down on the ground), and how you plan to help the dog understand what you want him to do (whether luring, capturing, or shaping…). Discuss “lure-shaping” – where you use a treat to get the dog to do small pieces of the behavior, encouraging him to lower his front end, marking and treating as you go, gradually getting closer and closer to the final behavior. For more about lure-shaping see “Fun Dog Training Techniques Using Shaping,” WDJ Feb 2006.)
Demonstrate the process, starting with the dog sitting. Put the treat in front of his nose lower it a little bit, mark and treat as he follows it.
Repeat, gradually lowering the treat closer to the ground with multiple repetitions. (For a step-by-step tutorial, see “How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down on Cue.”) Depending on your dog’s level of cooperation and your child’s abilities, you may be able to have her take over after a few repetitions of the demonstration with you continuing to coach, or you may need to continue participating more fully in the process. That’s your judgment call.
Now, expand your dog’s repertoire. Let your child help decide what new behaviors they want to help teach – and be sure to include tricks! Tricks are fun for all and are guaranteed to help strengthen the dog-child bond.
Also, be sure to show your young ones how to incorporate training into every day activities, using real-life rewards when appropriate. “Sit and I’ll throw the ball for you.” “Sit and we can play tug.” “Lie down and I’ll open the door for you to go out in the back yard.” “Sit and I’ll put your food bowl down.”
Supervise!
If your kids find your puppy or dog to be too physically exuberant to feel comfortable playing or training, try using “protected contact” – having them interact while the dog is safely restrained by a baby gate, puppy pen, leash, or tether. Photo by Kathy Callahan
Young children should, of course, always be supervised when they are in the presence of the family dog. “Supervision” means not just being in the same room, it means also having eyes and mind on the dog-kid combination at all times. You constantly make sure the child is appropriate with the dog, and constantly watch and interpret the dog’s body language to make sure he is comfortable with the child. This iron rule is especially unbendable when the dog and child are actively engaged with each other – for example, if the child is playing with or training the dog. Not only do you want to be sure that the child is safe, you also want to be sure the dog is enjoying the interaction and the training is being successful.
While older children don’t need the constant close scrutiny that young children do, you still want to be sure the training is going well and being done correctly. Check in with the dog-kid combination on a regular basis to reassure yourself that your learners are enjoying themselves and that training progress is happening.
So – how old is “younger” and how old is “older”? It is suggested that children aged 6 and under require constant close supervision, ages 7 to 12 are more capable of being dog-appropriate with less supervision, and 13 and up are generally mature enough to be trusted with the dog. Of course, each child is an individual and you’ll need to make your own judgment calls for your own offspring, but I would urge you to err on the side of caution. It’s far better to over-supervise than under-supervise.
Protected Contact
You might consider using “protected contact” in your training program with your dog and young child. The concept of protected contact is widely used in zoos, where animal care attendants keep a safety barrier between themselves and dangerous animals who might injure them – or worse. You can do the same with a child who might be overwhelmed or inadvertently injured by an over-exuberant canine subject. You could have your child work with the dog on a tether, inside an exercise pen or the other side of a baby gate. It can also be helpful to make sure your dog is well exercised before engaging in a training session with a young child. Too much enthusiasm on the part of the canine learner can damage the dog-child relationship – which is the exact opposite of the goal we are trying to achieve.
You Might Be Surprised
Obviously, older children will tend to catch on more quickly and be able to participate more fully in your dog’s training than very young children. But don’t sell your little ones short – some young children can be surprisingly adept at learning and applying training skills. Our trainers are frequently impressed by how well some of their junior students do in their dog training classes – often better than the adults! Do remember to keep it fun – the goal is to strengthen the bond – and that’s most likely to happen if all species involved are enjoying themselves.
Wearing a treat pouch, or "bait bag" as many trainers call them, enables you to deliver training treats at any rate of reinforcement necessary to build and maintain the behaviors you want from your dog.
Photo: Nancy Kerns
When it comes to dog training, positive reinforcement is key, and the most common reward is giving your dog a tasty treat. Unfortunately, holding them in your hand or your pocket can lead to a sticky, crumbly mess. The best solution is a dog-training pouch which hold your treats until you need them. It keeps your hands mess-free and treats within easy reach for when your dog masters a training cue. Whether you’re searching for durability, size, or convenience, we’ve got you covered.
Dog Training Treat Pouch Features to Look For
Easy-to-clean: Let’s face it, treats can get messy! It’s crucial to choose a pouch made of materials that can be wiped clean or even tossed in the washing machine. If your pouch is easy to clean, you’ll always be ready for your next training session without any leftover mess!
Easy treat access for you (but not for your dog): Look for a pouch that can be closed, to ensure that treats won’t accidentally spill out – and so your dog can’t reach inside and help himself. Some pouches have a zipper, magnetic closure, or drawstring, but the easiest to open and close quickly are those with a spring-loaded French hinge. While these hinges are the fastest and easiest to open and close, they also wear out over time and may lose their “quick snap” ability.
Size: You’ll want a dog training treat pouch that can hold a generous supply of treats for your pup. After all, you wouldn’t want to run out of rewards during a training session! Your dog will thank you!
Extra Features: Whether you prefer a fashionable waist belt, a convenient clip or hook that can fasten to your pants waist or pocket, or an adjustable shoulder strap, you can find a pouch that suits your style. Some pouches even come with extra features like built-in waste bag dispensers or compartments to hold your keys, phone, or other personal items.
Our Top Picks
Terry Ryan Treat Pouch: This is our long-time favorite treat pouch. It features one of those helpful French spring-loaded hinges, which keeps the pouch open until you close it with a quick tap. It comes with a detachable waist belt and a plastic clip so you can attach it to your pants waist or pocket. Its front pocket has no closure, but can hold an average-sized cell phone. The total size is 8.5 inches by 6.5 inches. This is one of the pricier pouches, so keep in mind that the hinge that makes the opening and closing so quick and easy won’t last forever. Available in black and purple. $17.
Petsafe Treat Pouch Sport: This product is similar in every way to the Terry Ryan Treat Pouch, complete with the French hinge, detachable waist belt, and plastic clip; it’s a tad larger, however, at 8 inches by eight inches. A divider in the main compartment keep treats separate and there is a front pocket for your phone and/or keys. Available in black/grey, red/gray, and blue/gray. $18.
Kurgo Go Stuff-It Dog Treat Bag: This dog treat bag features a wide drawstring opening for easy treat access while keeping them fresh (note that the drawstring pulls from the top, making it a tad harder to find, open, and close). Attach it with your own belt or a carabiner (included) clipped to a belt loop. Machine-washable, it includes a zippered side pocket for keys or other small items. Available in blue, red, and navy blue. $13.
Tuff Mutt Treat Pouch: Here’s another pouch that has a drawstring closure, only this one tightens and loosens from the side; it’s easier to find and operate this drawstring than the one on the Kurgo product. Its detachable strap can be used as a belt or over the shoulder, or the pouch can be attached to your belt or waistband with a plastic clip (provided). A small pocket holds a roll of poop bags, which can be dispensed through a handy opening. $17.
POPWARE Pooch Pouch Treat Holder: Made of 100% silicone, this flexible pouch has a slit on top; treats are kept inside until you slide your hand through the opening. The Pooch Pouch attaches to your belt or waistband with a plastic clip for hands-free carry, is non-porous so it won’t absorb oils or odors, and is dishwasher-safe for easy cleaning. Available in gray and blue $12.
With this tail-wagging selection of treat pouches to choose from, you’re sure to find the perfect pouch that suits your needs.
Even large hawks (such as this red-tailed hawk) would have a difficult time carrying away any but the tiniest dogs, those less than two pounds. If you walk in open areas where even larger raptors (such as golden or bald eagles) are common, it would be wise to keep small dogs close to you and on a leash.
If you have a very small dog, you may be concerned about hawks and other birds of prey; could they swoop down and carry your tiny dog away? We consulted Hillary Hankey, a bird behavior expert and owner and founder of Avian Behavior International in Escondido, California, to learn more about hawk attacks on dogs and how to prevent them.
“Considering how prevalent hawks are across North America, hawk attacks on our pets are not common, and most of the claims we hear about are unsubstantiated, with only a few verified reports each year,” Hankey says.
Of the verified reports, most are from hawks defending their nests, not predating on dogs, she adds. Small rodents make up 80 to 90% of a hawk’s diet, and they are known to eat small rabbits, birds, lizards, snakes, insects, and crustaceans. Dogs, even small ones, are not typically on a hawk’s menu.
Now, a desperate juvenile hawk that is a poor or unexperienced hunter might resort to attacking a dog, Hankey says, but it’s more likely a hawk defending its nest from a dog that has come too close.
“In the latter case, the bird is not trying to eat the dog, just get them to move on,” she says.
But Could a Hawk or Eagle Carry My Dog Away?
When hawks attack prey, they swoop down and use their strong feet and talons to grab the creature and take it to their perch or nest to eat. So how much weight can a hawk carry?
Hawks generally cannot carry off more than their own bodyweight, Hankey says. Red-tailed hawks are one of the largest and most commonly seen hawks in the U.S., and they weigh only two to four pounds, she says, making it highly unlikely they can snatch up even small dog breeds and carry them away. Raptors such as bald eagles and golden eagles are larger, and can carry more weight, but attacks on dogs by these birds are extremely rare.
The best plan for defending your dog from an attack by any raptor is to keep your extremely small dog close to you, and preferably on a leash. “All birds of prey generally want to avoid people unless they are defending a nest and are disturbed,” Hankey says. That said, if you live in an area where eagles are common, you may want to take additional steps:
Fit your dog with a spike jacket, such as CoyoteVest for dogs, or a talon-proof dog vest, like Raptor Shield.
Install a large owl statue or scarecrow, or use reflective bird scare tape to keep hawks out of your yard.
Remove bird feeders to eliminate a hawk-attracting bird buffet in your yard.
Hankey adds, “Hawks and most other native birds are federally protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. It is illegal and unadvisable to disturb, haze, or harass them.”
Dogs get so much joy out of play (and are delightfully exhausted afterward!). But what’s even more fascinating is watching the way dogs communicate while they play, including with sneezes! Photo by Marcoventuriniautieri, Getty Images
Dogs have an extensive repertoire of social cues and signals that they use to communicate with each other during play. One of those social cues is something that we usually associate with allergies or illness: the sneeze. Dogs sneeze when they play to communicate with other dogs.
The sneeze as a social cue is different from a physiologic sneeze. When a dog sneezes due to an irritation in her nose, the sneeze is often forceful and may include nasal discharge or jerking of her head. By comparison, a social sneeze is small and delicate with no nasal discharge and very little head movement.
A dog sneezing during play with another dog is telling the other dog to tone down the energy level a notch or two. It’s her way of saying, “I’m enjoying this playtime with you but you’re getting a little too rambunctious for me right now. Take a minute to chill out and then we can continue playing.”
Dogs will also use a sneeze as a social cue with their humans. A social sneeze directed at humans is used to get their attention. It is usually followed by barking or even pawing at or pointing their nose at something they want.
Dogs who sneeze a lot – regardless of context – may have an underlying medical issue that is causing them to sneeze. Anything that causes irritation of the nose or throat can cause repeated sneezing or even a reverse sneeze. This can include allergens, foreign material in the nose, an infection, or (rarely) a tumor in the nose or throat.
If you are not sure if your dog’s sneeze is a social cue or is being caused by a medical issue, take a video of your dog sneezing and share it with her veterinarian. They may reassure you that the sneeze is not a concern or may recommend that you make an appointment for an examination.
Social sneezes are part of the communication repertoire that make our canine companions unique. It’s amazing how eloquent our dogs can be without words!
Woody seeks comfort from the veterinary technician who just gave him a vaccination. He's one of those dogs who shakes at the vet, but is also quick to climb into the technician's or vet's lap after his exam or procedures.
I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time and money in the past couple of months to get my dogs’ health records together – after being embarrassed to admit to a new veterinarian friend that my dogs were overdue for some routine veterinary attention. I feel much better knowing that they are now current – on vaccines, routine blood work, heartworm and tick-titer tests, and prescriptions for heartworm prevention.
So much of my time and attention (and dog-budget) went to taking care of my elderly dog Otto last year that the younger dogs got sadly neglected. And even though I advise everyone I know to note all of their dog’s vaccines, medication refills, and vet appointments on a calendar, I neglected to do this for Woody and Boone for over a year. Ack!
After a conversation about rabies vaccines with my son (whose dog was due for a rabies booster), I started wondering when Boone’s most recent rabies vaccine was – and realized that he was overdue for his first three-year rabies vaccine by about, oh, a year. Worse: To even determine this fact, I went looking for the file folder where I kept all of Boone’s paperwork – and discovered I had never made one! All of his puppy-kindergarten diplomas and veterinary receipts and test results and even adoption papers were mixed in with all of the same sort of paperwork in either Otto’s or Woody’s folders. I have never even made him a file folder of his own!
Also, because I had about 10 months’ worth of extra monthly heartworm preventatives after Otto passed away, and because all my dogs’ weights were/are close enough, I hadn’t taken Woody or Boone in for their annual heartworm tests because I had extra prevention to give them; I hadn’t needed to make those appointments in order to have enough preventative on hand for almost half a year. Bad, bad dog, Nancy!
Well, if you’ve ever been going through the final illness, or the final, rough year of a beloved dog’s life, you know how easy it is to neglect the other, young, healthy dogs’ needs. I’m not defending myself, just explaining. I had a trying year with Otto, punctuated with a couple health emergencies with Boone, and the routine stuff just got shoved to the side.
In order to get everything caught up, I had to call three different veterinary clinics and request that all of Woody’s and Boone’s records be sent to my newest vet’s office. My dogs have both been seen and treated at the large emergency/specialty hospital about 30 minutes from my home, the closest clinic to my home (which is expensive and where it is difficult to get appointments within a month), and a much-less-expensive country clinic where it is also difficult to book appointments in a timely manner. Clinic #4, owned by my new vet friend, is going to be my new primary vet, so I’ve had hospitals 1 through 3 send their official records to her. I feel sorry for the veterinary receptionist who had to make sense of it all, but after going through all that paperwork, I finally have a full record for each dog in one place and don’t have to guess or dig to confirm the dates of anything.
I also put reminders on my digital calendar to make appointments for next year’s veterinary checkups. I’ve long used wall calendars to keep track of these things, but in my increasingly digital world, the Google calendar does a better job of reminding me of things than any paper calendar can do.
The last thing I have to do: I prepaid for fecal tests for both dogs, and need to collect a fecal sample from each dog and deliver them to my new vet for testing. The day after the dog’s last appointment, I duly collected a fecal sample from each dog’s morning deposit, and put them (triple zip-locked) in the refrigerator so I could deliver them to the clinic later in the day – but got busy and failed to drive to the clinic until what the receptionist said was too late for an accurate test (the samples should be refrigerated if there is going to be a delay, but should still arrive to the vet’s office within 4 to 6 hours). D’oh! I need to choose a day soon where I will collect samples of the dogs’ poop and drive it right to the vet, and then we’ll be completely on track for 2024.
DoggieLawn uses real grass, hydroponically grown (without soil), contained in a plastic tray. The ability to eliminate on grass indoors helps many dogs who are otherwise reluctant to eliminate on paper pads or litterbox material.
While most of us spend a lot of time convincing our dogs to eliminate outside, there are legitimate reasons why some dog lovers need their dogs to potty indoors. We looked at “dog indoor potty” products to help you determine which you might want to choose from if you are in the “indoor bathroom” club.
A Look At Indoor Potty Products
Indoor dog bathrooms come in a variety of styles including: real grass, artificial grass, pee pads, other absorbent materials, and plastic units. Our preference is for boxes that use some type of natural substrate, but here are some examples of each:
Sidebar: Why Use an Indoor dog Potty?
There are some very legitimate reasons why you might want your dog eliminate indoors instead of outside:
Medical issues for dog or human that prevent regular trips outside.
Behavioral issues (fear) inhibit her from eliminating outdoors around scary sights and sounds.
Inclement weather.
Your dog must routinely be left home alone longer than she can reasonably be expected to “hold it.”
You live on the 25th floor of a high-rise apartment and she can’t “hold it” that far.
You have a puppy who needs to go more often than you can take her out.
Doggie Lawn: At the top of our list because it uses real grass (grass sits in a plastic tray), reducing confusion for dogs who are expected to eliminate outdoors as well as indoors. It comes in multiple sizes, from Standard (24 x 15.5 inches) to XL (24 x 48 inches) to accommodate a variety of different-sized dogs. Price ranges from $34 to $103 depending on size; you also order a subscription for their “soil-less” hydroponically grown grass for easy, compostable cleanup and replacement. Downsides: Real grass requires more maintenance than artificial, and isn’t good for dogs who have grass allergies.
The Petmaker Artificial Grass Puppy Pad has four layers: The artificial grass attracts the dog and the quilted pad absorbs odors; the drainage insert allows extra urine to drain through into the final layer, the collection tray.
Bark Potty: Shredded and absorbent tree bark in a cardboard frame with an inner plastic tray. We like this one because it’s a natural material your dog can find outside for bathroom purposes. Netting over the surface prevents your dog from scattering the bark. Available in two sizes: Standard (16 x 20; $37) and Large (20 x 31; $58). Downsides: Some dogs may chew the box and the bark. Also although marketed to last a month, urine smell may become noticeable after three weeks.
Petmaker Artificial Grass Puppy Pad: A four-layer unit consisting of an artificial grass mat, which sits atop an odor-resistant cloth mat, which covers a plastic drainage insert, which sits inside a durable plastic collection tray. Three sizes, from Small (16 x 20) to Large (20 x 30) from $25 to $45. Downside: Grass pads may wear out quickly.
Doggy Bathroom Dog Litter Box: A plastic box with tall sides! Ideal for dogs who lift their legs to pee; absorbent pee pads attach to the sides of the box. Recommended for small dogs (up to 20 inches) – comes in two sizes: Mini ($189) and Regular ($209). Downsides: Cost and size limitation.
BrilliantPad Original Indoor Dog Potty: The dog steps onto a low platform that has absorbent material stretched across it; the material is contained in rolls that are encased in plastic tubes on either side of the platform. After the dog eliminates on the pad, you can advance the pad to expose a clean section; the soiled section is contained until the entire roll (which contains 21 full pad advances) is soiled and discarded. A high-tech version (BrilliantPad Smart) allows you to advance the pad using an app on your phone. Downsides: Expensive ($230 – $250, plus rolls for $50 each) – and only for dogs 25 pounds or less. Motion activation could be aversive to some dogs.
This is a common problem with using pads on the floor; without a defined area or container for the pad, many dogs and pups who understand the concept of using the pad miss the target. A product that offers a distinct change of surface under their paws (such as artificial grass) or that holds a pad in a tray or box will help the dog’s “aim.” Photo by lolostock, Getty Images
Disposable Pee Pads: Lots of brands to choose from, so it can come down to personal preference; you may want to do a deeper dive into your own research and testing. Two we found that look promising are:
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Bulldogology Carbon Tech – Top rated from numerous sources and reported to be super-absorbent. These pads don’t easily wrinkle, flip, or move. The 24- x 24-inch pads have six layers, including an odor neutralizer (carbon); layer of tissue, absorbent gel polymer, and a waterproof liner to prevent leaks. $57 for 100 pads.
Kirkland Extra-Large Absorbent Pads – Costco sells these affordable, extra size for larger dogs (23 x 30 inches), with four layers including absorbent cloth, layer of tissue, absorbent gel polymer, and plastic liner to prevent leaks. $21 for 100 pads.
Washable/Reusable Pee Pads: Again, there are multiple brands to choose from; here are two that are highly rated:
Green Lifestyle Reusable Dog Pee Pads – These thick and highly absorbent, eco-friendly, machine washable pads have reinforced seams that last for many washes. A waterproof backing prevents leakage. They come in two sizes – 30 x 34 inches and 34 x 36 inches and in a pack of four or six. $29 to $44 at Chewy.com.
Max and Neo Washable Reusable Dog Pee Pads – These pads are quick-drying but extra-thick (four layers, with an inner layer that locks in liquid), and an inviting, quilted top layer. They come in one size (30 x 36 inches). $20 for two.
How to teach a dog to use an indoor potty
Some dogs catch onto indoor potty use very quickly, others take more effort, especially if they’ve been scrupulous about their housetraining habits in the past. Here are some tips:
Place your dog’s bathroom in a quiet location that is easily accessible for her, on an easy-to-clean surface with good ventilation to minimize odor.
Introduce your dog to the potty; show her where the indoor dog potty is and encourage her to check it out on her own so she can get comfortable with it. Do not put treats on it to get her to walk on it; dogs tend not to eliminate where they get food!
Collect a urine and stool sample to place on the potty surface to give her the idea.
Use positive reinforcement. When she uses the indoor dog potty, mark, praise, and give her a treat (away from the potty!). This associates using the potty with good things, making her more likely to use it in the future.
As with any housetraining, consistency is vital. Take your dog to the indoor dog potty regularly, especially after meals, naps, and playtime.
Give your dog time. Remember, it may take time for her to learn to use the indoor potty. Don’t get discouraged if your dog has accidents at first. Stick to your routine and reinforce good behavior. If you’re struggling, try taking your indoor potty outdoors to your dog’s normal bathroom spot, get her to use it there several times, then take it back indoors. Be patient!
Teach a bathroom cue. Use a specific cue (such as “Potty!” or “Go pee!”) when taking your dog to the indoor dog potty. If you already use one for outdoor elimination, use the same one indoors.
Be sure to clean up any accidents thoroughly and use an odor neutralizer on any elimination “mistakes,” to help clarify where your dog should and should not be eliminating.
And one final tip for dogs who lift their leg to pee: Put a sturdy, absorbent-covered or washable post in the middle of the pad or box. If you can, collect a little of your dog’s or another dog’s urine (even a few drops!) and drip or spray the post with it; this will help show your dog where to lift a leg!
Whether it’s due to a one-time puppy accident or a chronic issue with an aging and leaky dog, every pet owner can benefit from a carpet-cleaning machine. Photo by Vesnaandjic, Getty Images
Vacuum cleaners suck up dust, dirt, and dog hair from carpets and hard floors, but when you need a deeper cleaning, carpet cleaners (also called rug shampooers) combine suction power with cleaning sprays, rotating brushes, and rinse water to remove stains, odors, and stubborn grime.
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Full-sized or upright cleaners
Full-sized carpet cleaners are larger and heavier than vacuum cleaners because of their water tanks, which supply cleaning solutions mixed with water during treatment, and store sucked-up dirty water after cleaning. Accessories include hoses, pretreatment options, and hand-held tools. The machines’ size and weight are important considerations, and so are their price tags, which range from $100 to $500 or more. Full-sized pet-cleaning rug shampooers are a good match to physically active dog owners who vacuum often and expect to use a shampooer at least twice a year.
The laboratory tests mentioned here involved large swatches of white or off-white carpet and colorful stains like dirt, red wine, red clay, yellow ammonia (to simulate pet urine), actual urine, ice cream, chocolate, nut butters, Coke, blue Gatorade, caramel syrup, orange soda, coffee, ketchup, orange juice, tea, mustard, soy sauce, chili oil, and egg yolks. The tested machines were rated according to their stain-removing efficiency, convenience, ease of use, and noise level. All of the models listed here are suitable for use on carpets, area rugs, and upholstery.
This machine is the top pick of Better Homes and Gardens because of its effectiveness (cleaning quickly and thoroughly) and ease of use. “Our testers used the deep clean option when tackling various stains – chocolate, wine, dirt, and coffee – and noted it only took three wet and dry passes to get each stain off of the carpet.” This model has a “clean shot” pre-treater, retractable handle, compact size, and simple assembly. It weighs 12.34 pounds and holds 60 ounces (almost 2 quarts) of water.
Consumer Reports lists this machine as its top model. “It cleans just 5 to 7 square feet of carpet per tank of solution,” says its report, “but the 8-foot hose gives you lots of room to work without constantly moving the machine.” It weighs 16.25 pounds and holds 2 quarts (1/2 gallon) of water. Should the FH55000 model be out of stock, Consumer Reports recommends HOOVER POWERDASH PET FH50700 ($120), which has similar features.
Consumer Reports rates the BISSELL PROHEAT 2X LIFT-OFF PET 15651 ($309) as its second favorite full-sized carpet cleaner because it covers 15 square feet on a tank of solution, which is twice what some other top-rated machines can do. This model weighs 24.25 pounds and holds almost 3 quarts of water.
HOOVER SMARTWASH PET AUTOMATIC CARPET CLEANER ($249). The Good Housekeeping Institute rated this as their favorite overall carpet cleaner for pets. In addition to conducting in-lab testing, one tester used this model to clean old pet stains at home and found that it worked better than models previously tried. It cleans on forward passes and dries on back passes. An onboard wand of oxy stain solution zaps pet messes and Heatforce technology speeds carpet drying. This model weighs 18.9 pounds and holds 1 gallon of water.
TINECO CARPET ONE SMART CARPET CLEANER ($499) is the New York Times Wirecutter’s top choice. “This model operated more smoothly, tackled common household stains better, and left the carpet drier than all of tis competitors,” says its report. “We compared how our test models tackled common household stains, including dirt, urine, wine, soda, and ice cream.” The testers called the Tineco easy to operate, comfortable to maneuver, and considerably quieter than most machines. Helpful voice prompts warn of technical errors and remind you to refill or empty the tanks. An LED display shows cleaning progress and the carpet’s dryness level. This model weighs 16.5 pounds and holds 1 gallon of water.
Portable Carpet Cleaners
Full-sized, upright rug shampooers are the workhorses of home carpet cleaning, but when the pet mess is small, a portable carpet cleaner may be all you need. These cleaners are easier to use than full-sized machines, and with appropriate attachments, can be used on carpets, area rugs, upholstery, mattresses, pet beds, and car interiors.
BISSELL LITTLE GREEN PORTABLE CARPET CLEANER ($120) and BISSELL LITTLE GREEN PROHEAT PORTABLE CARPET CLEANER ($138) earned Consumer Reports’ highest ratings. “There were few differences between the two machines,” says the CR report, “beyond the fact that the Bissell ProHeat has a stair-cleaning tool and looks a little more modern. Both are as noisy as a standard vacuum but the ProHeat is a smidge quieter.” Each weighs just under 10 pounds and holds 1-1/2 quarts of water. To use either model, spray a mixture of hot water and cleaning solution from an onboard tank onto the fabric surface, apply it for the recommended amount of time, and then vacuum it up.
Good Housekeeping rates the BISSELL SPOTCLEAN PET PRO PORTABLE CARPET CLEANER ($175) as the best portable carpet cleaner for pets, noting its special container system for pet messes, 3-quart water tank, and effective urine-eliminator cleaning solution. It weighs 13 pounds.
RUG DOCTOR’S PET PORTABLE SPOT CLEANER ($152) is Better Homes and Garden’s favorite portable carpet and upholstery cleaner because of its maneuverability (it rolls like a wheeled suitcase) and effectiveness when combined with 5-minute pretreatments. It weighs 19 pounds. The water tank, which holds 2 quarts (1/2 gallon) can be tricky to fill by yourself but easy with a helper.
Things to consider before purchasing
All of the carpet cleaners mentioned here are described in detail at their manufacturers’ and retailers’ websites, so look online for descriptions of tools, accessories, cord lengths, hose lengths, convenience, cleaning solutions, and noise levels measured in decibels. (For comparison, 80 decibels is the average noise level for carpet cleaning machines.) Someone living in a one-story home may not need a long hose or long electrical cord while someone with carpeted stairs or large carpeted rooms may need both. Large-capacity water tanks are handy, but 1 gallon of water adds 8 pounds to the machine weights listed here. Pet carpet cleaner websites feature demonstration videos, customer ratings, and comments.
Finding a machine that fits well with you and your pets is worth the time and effort involved. With the help of a good carpet cleaner, any pet mess that comes your way will be a manageable and temporary inconvenience.
Research has shown that playing calming music can help dogs relax and display calm behaviors, whether they are home alone or in a shelter. Photo by Alex Ugalek, Getty Images.
Most dogs really do like music, but just like most humans, they like some, but not all kinds of music. What dog owners tend to appreciate most is when dogs find music to have a calming or relaxing effect on their dogs.
It’s understandable that dog owners would be interested in using music to facilitate calmness; it’s a zero-cost intervention that helps their dogs become the well-behaved companions they would like them to be! And there is evidence that some music does indeed help dogs relax. A 2002 study found that dogs appeared significantly less agitated after listening to selections of classical music. Their breathing slowed and they were less likely to pace around or remain standing. Researchers found that reggae and soft rock selections also had a calming effect on dogs.
In contrast, short, quick notes tended to increase a dog’s rapid motor movements. Even worse, heavy metal resulted in tremors and shaking – definitely not calming! Some variety is also important; dogs apparently tune out music that they hear all time, even the calming classical music; it loses its relaxing effect if it is too repetitous.
One important note, however: Not all classical music is soothing! Think of the rousing sounds of the William Tell Overture (which most of us older Americans know as the theme music of the Lone Ranger galloping across the prairie on his trusty white stallion). Be sure to look for calm, meditative music if you want to take advantage of the potential relaxation benefits on your dog’s behavior.
Find Your Dog’s Calming Music
So where can you find this magic calming music? Here are a few sources for relaxing dog music are:
iCalmPet claims that its calming music downloads are “psychoacoustically designed to support your dog’s nervous system function.” We know, at the very least, they are relaxing for us to listen to!
Youtube has several sites that provide long hours of calming music. Here is a link to a 12-hour playlist from Relax My Dog.
Does Dog Calming Music Work
If you are a skeptic like me, you might be asking if calming music really works for dogs. The evidence from several studies certainly seems to support that conclusion. In one study, shelter dogs barked significantly less in their kennels when calming music was played. And I can tell you this personal story:
I had a client whose dog was anxiety-stressed to the max. This poor dog paced and panted nonstop for 90 minutes of our two-hour consult as we discussed and practiced protocols to reduce her anxiety. Then I turned on the iCalmDog player, and in less than a minute the dog laid down under the table with her head on her paws and her eyes closed, and stayed there for our remaining 30 minutes.
Will it help all dogs? Maybe not. But as I tell my clients all the time… can’t hurt, might help – and it’s well worth a try. Yours might well be one that it does help!
Many dog owners get peace of mind from smart collars with GPS tracking, whether it’s needed to reassure them about the whereabouts of their dogs or to help find dogs who have gone astray. Photo by Petra Richli, Getty Images
Smart technology has found its way into nearly every aspect of our lives – even our dogs’ collars! From using GPS technology to help locate a pet who’s wandered off to accelerometer technology to track activity, modern dog collars offer more than just a functional way to attach an ID tag and leash.
In fact, there are so many functions and features available in various combinations that it’s hard to know what’s what. We’ve organized a table to help you compare products and find a collar that offers just those features you need or want in a smart dog collar.
We were discouraged to discover that a number of companies that produce or sell shock collars for training and/or containment have entered the “smart collar” market, incorporating the ability to use electrostatic shock to collars with more beneficial features. We stand firmly against the use of shock collars for training and containment, and don’t recommend these devices.
Some of the products are familiar to us – we’ve thoroughly tested them in the past – and some we’ve not heard of but spent time looking through the manufacturer’s websites to understand what they offer.
Here’s what we discovered:
Dog Smart Collars Compared
Name & Website
Marketed As
Main Features
Price
Notes
Fi Smart Dog Collar
tryfi.com
Smart dog collar
-GPS Tracking
Price depends on length of required subscription. $168-$204/year, including collar.
GPS tracking uses three different satellite positioning systems to locate the wearer.
-Garmin specializes in GPS navigation technology for numerous markets. They offer several products designed for sporting dogs, both with and without tone and/or electrostatic shock features.
Garmin’s GPS tracking collars all require a separate Garmin GPS device. Products can be purchased separately or as a set.
The Garmin Astro 900 (tracking, vibration, but no electrostatic shock) retails for $649 for the collar and handheld device as a set. The collar alone is $249 for users who already own a compatible Garmin device. No additional monthly or annual service fee.
These products are in a league of their own compared to the other “pet market” products on this list. They track using GPS and GLONASS (a Russian satellite-based navigation system) technology. Garmin claims this combination allows its compatible receivers to acquire satellites up to 20% faster than devices that rely on GPS alone. According to website claims, products can be used to monitor dogs from up to nine miles with a 2.5-second update rate.
While intended for sporting dogs, if you hike in heavily wooded or remote areas where cell service is unreliable, a more sophisticated tracking device can offer both safety and peace of mind. (Read why a Montana dog trainer chose a Garmin Astro model over Whistle, Fi and other similar products.)
$1,295 plus monthly subscription for GPS tracking.
Tractive Waterproof GPS Dog Collar
tractive.com
GPS and health tracker
-GPS Tracking
-Health alerts related to changes in sleep or activity
-Activity monitoring
$39.99 plus a subscription fee of $96 (Basic) or $108 (Premium)for a one-year subscription. Premium includes family sharing, worldwide coverage, 365-day location history and GPS data export.
Marketed battery life of up to seven days.
Tractive GPS connects to AT&T, Verizon, and T-Mobile LTE across the United States.
Tractive also offers a smaller model designed for cats.
Whistle
whistle.com
Health, tracking, and activity collar
Two products: Whistle Go Explore features GPS tracking plus health and activity monitoring.
Whistle Health provides health and activity monitoring.
Whistle Health - $109 for the tracker plus a one-year subscription.
Whistle Health has a 60-day battery life.
Various accelerometers track the wearer’s movement multiple times per second and use algorithms to identify movement as specific behaviors.
Author Kathy Callahan demonstrates the goal behavior with her dog George: walking with a dog who is not pulling, so that the leash only nominally connects the two of you, displaying that beautiful “J” shape. To get there, start with a few minutes of some high-engagement, high-reward, fun training, alternating short periods of that with some opportunities to sniff to his heart’s content. Then, when you ask for this behavior, he should be primed to cooperate. Photo by Grace Callahan
Any chance you’d like to transform your dog walks from frustrating leash-pulling contests of strength to enjoyable and cooperative outings? Using a pattern of three distinct types of interaction and activity on each walk gives you a strategy to stop a dog from pulling on a leash: a phase of high-engagement training, a phase of no-expectation sniffing, and your goal activity of loose-leash walking. When employed strategically, the three components work together to dramatically reduce pulling on leash.
Start with empathy for your dog’s needs
When a human client asks me to help them with their dog’s “problem behavior,” I make it a practice to wonder how the dog client would describe the problem. If they were in a couple’s counseling session, what would the dog have to say about their human?
When it comes to pulling-on-leash conflicts, I suspect most dogs would say, “Could you stop torturing me by bringing me outside and then forbidding me from enjoying myself? Our walks are weirdly slow and straight-ahead; can we make them more interesting, please? I’d like to smell some stuff, and it would be great to play some games part of the time.”
Sometimes, the fastest way to get what you want in a relationship is to make sure your partner gets what they want, too. In the case of the dog/human leash-pulling conflict, that means offering – structuring time for and facilitating – parts of the walk that will meet your dog’s species-specific needs. Using a pattern in every outing of intentionally switching from styles of walking that dogs enjoy most, to styles that work best for you will transform that activity so that it’s more fun and less work for both of you.
“Ugh!” you might say. “That sounds complicated. I just want to walk my dog!” I know. But just give this a try for two weeks. You’ll be experiencing that gorgeous “J” shape in your leash more and more – and you may find that you feel closer to your dog and more connected to nature. I’m not promising world peace, but I swear good things will happen.
First Phase: Training
If I’ve got a dog who’s barely keeping it together at the beginning of the walk – bursting with energy – I start that walk by training with a super high level of reinforcement. Our initial steps down the driveway are going to be a string of cues: find it, heel, side, spin, heel, touch, heel, find it.
“Hey, lady, if it were that easy for me to get my dog to heel I wouldn’t be reading this article.” Fair point, but the devil is in the details. An authoritative (or annoyed) “heel!” is worlds apart from the rapid-fire fun I’m proposing. Here’s what my version involves:
Start your walks with a short phase – perhaps just two minutes! – of high-engagement, fun training. Use your very highest-value rewards and, rapid-fire style, ask for a bunch of behaviors that your dog knows well. A typical progression could be: find it (search for and eat a tossed treat), heel, side (sit in the heel position), heel, side, find it, down, find it, heel! Your vibe should make this feel like a game. Photo by Grace Callahan
Head-turning food, whatever that means to your individual dog. I tend to start a walk with jerky in play, and then turn to less enticing stuff when arousal levels are lower and the dog and I have gotten into a groove.
Rapid-fire cues. Ask for 10 different things in two minutes. Reward every single one at first! Don’t lose momentum. Keep your energy up to hold your dog’s interest. If your engagement flags, so will your dog’s. One particularly helpful exercise is “Fast! Slow! Fast! Side!” as you reward your dog for matching your varying pace.
Enthusiastic vibe. Note that adding “training” sections to your walks does not mean “kill the fun by being very serious and demanding things.” Quite the opposite. This is your dog’s fun opportunity to earn extra yummy treats for doing stuff he knows how to do! How great is that? Demonstrate with a happy voice, good energy, and confident connection that this is an especially fun part of the walk.
Doing a “training” section of the walk right off the bat accomplishes a few important things. It gives the dog someplace to throw that initial big energy. It confirms that I have great food on me, which will be important as we pass challenging things like that barking German Shepherd around the corner. And it starts us off psychologically together, engaged. That sets us up for better loose-leash walking.
Second Phase: “Go Sniff!”
Aim for spending about a third of your “walking” time in the phase that’s likely the most enjoyable to your dog: sniffing. Give him a cue to “go sniff!” and relax while he gets his fill of this archetypical canine behavior. Photo by Grace Callahan
“Go sniff!” is something the dogs I’m working with hear maybe a half a dozen times in a half-hour walk. That’s the signal that they can go ahead and inhale the world to their heart’s content for the next few moments. I won’t rush them or pull them away.
We humans with our 6 million nasal receptor sites cannot fathom what dogs can smell with their 100 million. That’s why it’s so natural for us to say after two seconds, “C’mon, there’s nothing there!” The dogs beg to differ. The information they gain by sniffing is probably akin to our scanning our email, news headlines, and social media gossip. I imagine they can smell the raccoons that walked down the sidewalk yesterday, the pizza that was delivered last night, the UPS driver’s cat whose fur is on the guy’s shoe, and all the other dogs in the neighborhood that passed by in the past few days. By reading the pee-mail left by other animals, and commenting with some pee themselves, they gain and share important information.
Even if you don’t take delight in your dog’s sensory experience, keep in mind that it’s also in your self-interest to let your dog sniff. Allowing our dogs to really be dogs sometimes makes it a heck of a lot easier for them to live according to our human rules the rest of the time. Sniffing is, hands-down, the easiest way to help your dog obtain his required daily allowance of dogness. This kind of data-gathering for your dog can also help enormously with anxiety and reactivity. Plus, it’s not difficult for you to provide and you don’t have to learn anything or plan anything; just stand still for a few moments or minutes while they sniff!
So the case for sniffing on walks is very strong; the key is to make it official. Obviously you don’t want your dog yanking you hither and yon whenever they catch a great scent – which is exactly what happens when we never give our dogs the option to sniff in a leisurely fashion. Faced with that utterly unfair situation, dogs will take their welfare into their own hands, put their heads down and drag their owner to the bushes.
In contrast, if an owner regularly makes a point of noticing where good smells tend to be and – just as that spot comes up, before the dog tries to pull for it – says, “Go sniff!” the entire dynamic changes. After a few weeks of this kind of pattern, the dog isn’t desperately pulling toward everything, because she can trust that she’ll get a chance pretty soon.
Third Phase: Loose-Leash Walking
Now we get to the whole reason you started reading – the loose-leash part. I started with the other sections because that mimics my typical progression: When I’m just starting to work with a dog, I expect to do a lot (maybe 15 minutes?) of alternating between sniffing and high-engagement training before we get to a place where we’re going to succeed with a section of loose-leash walking. In essence, I wait until I’ve met some natural canine needs, drained some energy, and reminded the pup that engagement with me is incredibly rewarding.
After a sniffing session, I’ll say, “Bella, let’s walk!” to indicate we’re officially in a new pattern together. Then we move ahead. I’m looking for that leash to be in a nice “J” the whole time. If the dog pulls so that the leash becomes taut, I simply stop moving. I wait. She’ll look back, which usually also creates slack. I reward that slack leash with movement forward: “Let’s walk.” If it tightens again, we repeat that cycle. Soon enough the dog learns that walking in sync with me offers its own reward: forward motion.
If I try the stop-at-every-taut-leash business with a new dog right out of the gate, it’ll be a very frustrating exercise for us both; we’ll be stopping every two feet. Many folks approach loose-leash training that way, but I don’t enjoy that one bit. Instead, if we’ve been alternating between lots of high-reward training and sniffing for 15 minutes or so, I’m set up to succeed with getting that loose leash without frustration. In fact, some pups will then be ready to relax into this style for much of the rest of the walk. Others do best if I continue to alternate sniffing, training, and loose-leashing the rest of the way.
IT’S A JOURNEY
When a dog is new to all of this, I’m highly deliberate and communicative so that we both know which part of the walk we’re in at all times: sniffari, training, or loose-leash walking. As time goes on, though, the need for that precision fades away. That early, predictably clear structure allows for mutual learning that paves the way for mutual trust – and that trust turns out to be the key.
For me, walks are about the relationship. When it comes to getting a “polite” walk, there is tons of chatter out there about equipment and complicated training instruction, but to me that mostly misses the point. What gets you to an enjoyable walk with your dog is two-way connection. Get that right, and watch the leash loosen.
Last note: Could you get a loose leash fast by using aversive tools and methods? The ones that use pain (at the very least, discomfort) and fear to ensure compliance from your captive animal? Sure. But . . . is that who you want to be? I promise it’s more fun – and much more effective in the long run – to not resort to using these tools.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
