While we’re not recommending it, sharing a potato chip with your dog is unlikely to harm him, but allowing him a lot of a salty snack may. Credit: Aleksander Georgiev | Getty Images
Most spices and seasonings will not harm your dog, provided he doesn’t eat too much of them. For example, eating a handful of salt could lead to sodium poisoning, but eating a couple potato chips isn’t likely to cause a problem. It’s all a matter of moderation.
If your dog steals a piece of seasoned meat, he probably will not have any issues. It is much more concerning if your dog eats a large amount of a single seasoning, such as a whole jar of fennel.
Even if your dog does overdo it with a seasoning, most of these items just cause mild gastro-intestinal discomfort, vomiting, and/or diarrhea. Small dogs are more susceptible than large dogs because it is easier for them to ingest a toxic dose.
If your dog ever gets into something and you are worried about toxicity, don’t take a chance. Call a pet poison hotline for direction (there may be a charge):
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435
Pet Poison Helpline: 855-764-7661
What Seasonings Can Dogs NOT Have?
Some seasonings are not worth the risk and should not be given to your dog. These include:
Remember that the majority of spices and seasonings can cause diarrhea and vomiting if eaten in large amounts, so always consult with your veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist before adding seasonings to your dog’s regular diet.
Common Questions About Spices for Dogs
Can dogs have cinnamon? Yes, cinnamon is safe for dogs.
Can dogs have rosemary? Yes, rosemary is safe for dogs.
Can dogs have salt? Dogs can have small amounts of salt, but large amounts can contribute to a number of health problems over time.
Can dogs have black pepper? Dogs can have small amounts of black pepper.
Can dogs have parsley? Yes, parsley is safe for dogs in small amounts. Eating large quantities of parsley can cause skin problems.
Can dogs have basil? Yes, basil is safe for dogs.
Can dogs have garlic powder? Dogs should not eat garlic powder. Fresh garlic in small amounts has some potential health benefits, but large quantities of garlic can cause anemia. Garlic powder is concentrated, making it easy for dogs to consume a toxic dose.
Can dogs taste spicy? Yes and no. Dogs don’t taste spicy foods in the same way that we do, but they can still experience the burning heat that comes afterward, and they may also get that effect simply from smelling the spicy item. While most foods containing hot peppers won’t significantly harm your dog, they can cause diarrhea and vomiting. Most dogs also just don’t enjoy that sensation!
A vaccination for distemper is a core vaccine given to puppies with boosters for adult dogs. Credit: Gilaxia | Getty Images
Canine distemper is a serious viral infection in dogs caused by paramyxovirus. As a viral disease, it is often fatal, and even dogs who survive may have lifelong damage. The canine distemper virus is very contagious.
The virus commonly attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems in dogs of all ages and spreads via sneezing and through shared food and water bowls. Wildlife, from foxes to coyotes to raccoons and skunks may suffer from and spread this virus.
An effective distemper vaccine is normally part of the DHPP shot that includes distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, and the parvovirus.
Symptoms of Distemper in Dogs
Symptoms of distemper in dogs are usually respiratory, but the first thing most dog owners notice is an eye discharge, which can range from watery to purulent. As the distemper virus progresses, symptoms may include:
Nasal discharge
Coughing
Lethargy
Lack of appetite (secondary to a fever)
Vomiting
Diarrhea
As it progresses, the virus tends to move to the nervous system. Affected dogs may circle, have a head tilt and muscle tremors, and most progress to seizures and/or paralysis.
Many infected dogs drool and show strange compulsive chewing motions that can make some owners concerned about rabies. Many dogs shed the virus for prolonged periods.
Distemper Recovery for Dogs
Treatment for distemper is largely supportive, addressing the symptoms, since this is a viral disease. Antibiotics may be needed for secondary bacterial infections. Dogs who survive may be marked by permanent neurologic damage. This can range from a head tilt to seizures. Another sign of previous infection can be a keratotic buildup on the paws, which is known as “hard pad.”
Preventing Distemper
This horrible can be avoided. The distemper vaccine is remarkably effective. Puppies require a series of vaccines to compensate for the interference of maternal antibodies with the development of normal immunity. Currently most vaccines are licensed for use every three years after the initial booster at one year. Some owners will choose to do yearly titers in place of booster vaccines.
Even if your dog is vaccinated, it is best to avoid training classes, day cares, boarding kennels, and dog parks that do not require proof of distemper immunity (via titers or current vaccination).
It’s highly unlikely your dog can spread a cold or virus to a human. Credit: Viktoriya Dikareva | Getty Images
Dog owners nationwide are concerned about a severe canine respiratory virus that doesn’t respond to traditional medications and is killing some dogs. Cases were first noted in Oregon and are suspected in several other areas. As of this writing, we aren’t certain what the cause of this virus is, so reported cases may or may not be the same illness. Veterinarians everywhere are asking people not to overreact but instead to take precautions to protect your dog.
First, know the signs of a respiratory virus or a dog “cold,” which include:
Runny nose and/or eyes
Coughing
Sneezing
Difficulty breathing
Lethargy
Lack of appetite
Second, if your dog starts to show clinical signs or any type of cold, keep your dog at home (no shows, no daycare, no grooming) and seek veterinary care to help minimize the chance this could turn into something more serious (i.e., pneumonia).
Third, if your dog is in an environment with dogs that are not part of your household, follow these tips to minimize your dog’s risk:
Avoid contact with dogs with clinical signs
Do not let your dog greet dogs nose-to-nose, share toys, water bowls, etc.
If you’re crated somewhere for an event, cover your crate with a sheet to prevent respiratory droplets from other dogs getting to your dog
If you have senior dogs or puppies, take extra care. If you could have been exposed to a sick dog, change your clothes and wash your hands before interacting with these more vulnerable dogs.
Like humans, dogs can suffer from upper respiratory infections from viruses in the same families as people (other than rhinovirus) and from some of the same bacteria. The infectious agents that afflict humans and dogs are species-specific, however, so it is unlikely that dogs and their owners will infect each other.
Most cases will self-resolve in seven to 10 days. Sometimes the illness does not respond to traditional therapy, and in those cases, veterinary care and diagnostics (bloodwork, PCR tests on nasal and pharyngeal swab samples, chest radiographs, tracheal wash) might be needed.
How to Prevent an Upper Respiratory Infection
Vaccinations are important in reducing your dog’s risk. Discuss appropriate vaccinations for your dog with your veterinarian. Considerations will include your dog’s lifestyle and degree of exposure to other dogs contact in dogs.
The huge sound waves in the range of thunder and fireworks are nearly impossible to block effectively with barriers and soundproofing, but the right kind of acoustic masking is very effective for “hiding” these sounds from your dog. Photo by Vincent Scherer, Getty Images.
It is challenging – and can be heartbreaking – to care for sound-sensitive dogs, whether they are frightened by thunder, fireworks, electronic beeps from microwave ovens or low-battery indicators, or other noises. Veterinary behaviorists can help, prescribing medications and counterconditioning and desensitization exercises to reduce the dog’s noise sensitivity or noise phobias over time. But to immediately reduce the intensity of the sounds that frighten your dog, you can employ “acoustic masking” or “sound masking,” which can decrease the potency of the sounds as triggers for anxious or phobic behaviors. Note that this technique is not the same as noise canceling, which employs a different technology to reduce surrounding sounds and is delivered via headphones or earbuds – not good options for dogs!
What is sound masking?
Acoustic masking is a technique whereby we add sound to the environment to reduce the intensity and intelligibility of unwanted sound. Adding a masking sound makes it harder to detect and discriminate between other sounds in the environment. It raises the amount of ambient noise in an environment, and can help sudden noises be perceived as less sudden. Sometimes the problem sounds become completely undetectable; more often, with thunder and fireworks, they are toned down and become less startling to the dog.
Noise-Management Technology Definitions
Reducing the effects of irritating or scary noises from sensitive individuals, human and canine, is an enormous industry. There are a variety of tactics that may be employed to meet this goal, but the one that has been shown to be most effective for dogs is acoustic masking, discussed at length in the main article. You may also see the terms auditory masking and sound masking, whose meanings are similar enough that the terms are sometimes used interchangeably. Don’t confuse acoustic masking with these other noise-management technologies:
Noise-canceling: Sound as we (and our dogs) hear it is caused by compression and decompression of particles in the air, resulting in ripples in the air that “press” on our eardrums in complex ways. Noise-canceling devices monitor and sample these sound waves and produce waves that are precisely inverted forms of the environmental sound waves, which “cancel” each other out. This technology is delivered via headphones or earbuds (or large-scale systems in rooms, but these are prohibitively expensive for home use). The noise-canceling devices are equipped with microphones that take in the environmental noise, a digital signal processor that analyzes that noise and determines the opposite sound waves, and speakers that produce the reversed sound waves. Such a system can cancel a considerable amount of the ambient sound for the wearer, but they do not create a silent environment. Fully tested sound canceling headphones are not yet available for use in dogs.
Note that while the phrase “noise canceling” is in common usage, the technology is more precisely called “active noise canceling” (ANC), as it uses a power source to generate its “anti noise.”
Passive noise control: Also known as noise blocking, this is the use of various materials to actually block sound waves from reaching eardrums. Earplugs are the most common form of passive noise control used by humans. There are a variety of noise-blocking wearables made for dogs, such as Mutt Muffs and Rex Specs Ear Pro, but not all dogs will cooperate with wearing them, and they do not block the low freuqencies of thunder and fireworks effectively.
Masking happens in real life all the time. And the masking sound need not be extremely high volume. Masking is happening when we find it hard to follow what a friend is saying when we are together in a crowd of people who are conversing, even if the people are not speaking loudly. But of course, some loud noises are very effective masks, as you will know if you have ever tried to talk over the sound of a vacuum or a circular saw.
Best candidates for sound masking for dogs
The following types of sounds are the gold standard – good for masking any problem sound:
Generated random or other broadband noise. The term “random noise” refers to artificially created noise that is generated according to an algorithm. It contains an ever-changing mix of many frequencies. Brown noise has the most low frequencies and is the most versatile mask. Pink noise has a moderate number of low frequencies, and white noise has the least. But if all you have available is white noise, use it!
Recordings of the ocean, waterfalls, generators, plane travel, and winter snowstorms are usually broadband and have many of the properties of random noise. Some of these can be more pleasant for humans. Just don’t choose things like trickling streams or spring rain if you are masking storms or fireworks. Go for the massive, broadband sounds with low frequencies, after making sure they don’t scare your dog.
Note: It’s more acoustically effective to play audio recordings from YouTube or another source over a home sound system than employing a standalone noise machine. Use a high-quality speaker for good low-frequency coverage. Many noise machines lack the ability to put out the essential low frequencies.
It can be useful to employ a fan to help create a sound mask for your noise-phobic dog. But be aware that there is no acoustic advantage to fans related to the purported interaction of airflow with sound waves in rooms. This is a myth. Photo by Adrian Davies, Getty images.
A fan. The bigger the better, the more powerful (higher air flow velocity) the better. But any fan helps. Even the battery-operated fan I tested put out lower frequencies than my sound system.
You have a number of effective random-noise generators that can be used for sound masking in your home, including:
Washing machines and dishwashers. You can plan your normal usage for the thunderstorm or heaviest fireworks period so you don’t waste water.
Clothes dryers. If your dog can tolerate it, you can put a pair of sports shoes into a dryer on “air dry” for a very effective mask for booming noises (like those in fireworks shows).
Anything with a motor. Even robot vacuums can help if your dog isn’t afraid of them.
The gold-standard sounds listed above are versatile and powerful. But here are some other options that can work in specific situations or when you don’t have access to the best noises.
Some kinds of music. Just remember the principles: You want the inclusion of plenty of low frequencies, near constant volume, and no long breaks between pieces. The volume issue rules out a lot of Western classical music (e.g., symphonies and operas from the Romantic period) and some jazz. Many forms of pop music are good, with heavy metal and taiko drumming creating effective sound masks. But use these types of music only if your dog is already accustomed to them and blasé about them. You may have heard about studies where heavy metal music stressed out shelter dogs (Kogan et al., 2012). You will know if your dog is OK with this type of music. Note: I don’t recommend music because of any claimed relaxing effects. The research on dogs and music is in its infancy, and recent review articles have indicated that specially altered dog music has no positive effects (Lindig et al., 2020). Our goal is to choose music that can mask other sounds. Masking is evidence-based.
The human voice. Human voices, especially low-pitched ones, are good at masking other human voices. A recorded audiobook performed by someone with a deep voice can be a good sound mask if, for instance, you have electricians in your house and your fearful dog objects. Most dogs are habituated to voices out of speakers and don’t mistake them for actual humans, so playing an audiobook to mask the voices of people working in another room can work well. If you don’t regularly listen to audiobooks, you can use a recording from a free audiobook site. The website LibriVox is a great source for free audiobooks. I choose books in a foreign language so I don’t get distracted by the content.
Making noise yourself. If you know that a one-off sound your dog dreads is coming, especially if they don’t know it, you can kick up a little noise yourself to mask it. For many years, I clapped my hands and marched around when I saw the mail carrier approach my house because my dog Summer, who didn’t like thunder, was also scared of the sounds of the mail carrier stomping up the steps and rattling the brass mailbox lid. My dogs were accustomed to my doing weird things, and my stomping (I started quietly, not suddenly) and clapping saved Summer from that daily trigger. I also sometimes turned on the garbage disposal briefly. Note: If you try this and your dog still hears the scary noise, then the noises you make can become predictors, and you are on your way to adding more scary sounds to your dog’s list. Watch carefully to make sure your mask is effective and that your dog doesn’t hear the trigger noise.
The circled areas in these frequency diagrams show the low frequency performance of a fan, a Bluetooth speaker, and a noise machine. This area of the frequency spectrum is crucial for masking thunder and fireworks. Diagram courtesy of Eileen Anderson.
Which random noise source is best for your dog?
The two sound sources that mask the best are fans and noises we play out of speakers. Which is better? Each noise source has its advantages. The most important characteristic is that your dog is not scared of it. But here is a comparison.
Advantages of Fans
Your dog is probably habituated to fans.
Fans generate lower frequencies than most speakers (unless your system includes sub-woofers).
Generated random noise, especially brown noise, can scare some dogs.
Advantages of Random Noise
Your dog may be habituated to many sounds coming out of speakers.
Generated noise is more random, which makes for good masking. Fan noise is cyclical and doesn’t cover as many frequencies.
You have control over the volume and type of noise.
Contrary to some advice circulating in the dog training world, there is no acoustic advantage to fans related to the purported interaction of airflow with sound waves in rooms. This is a myth. Air movement inside rooms does not interfere with sound waves. Sound waves themselves reflect off surfaces and create a complex sound field within a room within milliseconds of the sound source being turned on.
If your dog is fine with various interventions, you can double and triple up. There is no reason not to have a fan, some random noise, and some music (for you!) going simultaneously.
Why these acoustic masks work: Characteristics of a good masking sound
Frequency is one of the important ways we categorize sound and can guide our approach to protecting our dogs from noises. Frequency means how many times the sound wave performs a full oscillation per second. The unit for cycles per second is known as the Hertz. Low-pitched notes have fewer oscillations per second and high-pitched notes have more. The rumble of thunder may be in the 5–220 Hertz range. Many digital beeps are around 3,000–5,000 Hertz.
Physics tells us that the optimal masking sound is in the same frequency range as the problem sound (Gelfand, 2010, p. 187). However, it’s advisable to choose something with lower frequency sounds than are present in the problem sound. That’s because masking effects spread upward in frequency. Lower frequency sounds can mask higher frequency sounds, but it doesn’t work the other way around.
There are several other characteristics of a good mask. The sound should be constant and of a constant volume. We don’t want it to drop out or get quiet right at the moment of the loudest thunderclap.
Also, we need the sound to be broadband. This means it contains many frequencies rather than just one or two. Imagine a flute playing. That’s the opposite of broadband. There is only a fundamental frequency and a few overtones. Now imagine a large fan or a waterfall. Those are broadband sounds, with a mix of many frequencies. We want this kind of whoosh or roar when possible.
The final characteristic is the most important. Your dog needs to be OK with it. This is tricky, since the ideal masking sound is in the same frequency range as the problem sound, or lower. But there are many other qualities that make sounds differ from each other. You can shop around for a sound your dog doesn’t react to. My thunder-phobic dog Summer didn’t care for the rumble of brown noise, but she was fine with the booms of taiko drumming.
Accidental sound masking
I recently had the rare experience of a loud environmental noise helping my youngest dog, Lewis, with whom I walk in my neighborhood every day. Over the almost two years Lewis has been in my family, I have learned his likes and dislikes, what he wants to investigate, and what worries him. He is bothered by moderately sudden noises, like someone starting a car or shutting a door nearby. He is magnetized by people getting out of cars and doing things in their front yards. If a car drives up (or leaves a house) he wants to wait and watch until things settle down again. But he is not worried by ongoing loud noises, such as air conditioners, lawnmowers, or leaf blowers.
Recently on a walk, we were approaching a yard where two men were using leaf blowers. The blowers were very loud, even from down the street. We were three houses away when someone came out of the house immediately in front of us, got into his pickup truck, and turned on the engine. This always worries Lewis, and I waited to help him through the moment. But although the engine starting was audible, it blended with the backdrop of constant loud equipment sounds, and wasn’t sudden. Lewis took a brief look and kept walking.
I realized accidental masking in the environment had protected him. It was a good lesson for me about the mechanisms of masking. I could definitely hear the truck start, and I’m sure he could, too. But with the blowers as a loud background, there was no contrast of quiet vs. a sudden engine noise, so his usual worry didn’t kick in.
It’s pretty rare for the universe to arrange for the right loud sound to help us. But with deliberate planning and careful observation of our dogs, we can learn to add sounds to the environment ourselves to help them through noises that frighten them.
References
Kogan, L. R., Schoenfeld-Tacher, R., & Simon, A. A. (2012). Behavioral effects of auditory stimulation on kenneled dogs. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 7(5), 268-275.
Lindig, A. M., McGreevy, P. D., & Crean, A. J. (2020). Musical dogs: A review of the influence of auditory enrichment on canine health and behavior. Animals, 10(1), 127.
Gelfand, S. A. (2010). Gelfand SA. Hearing: An Introduction to Psychological and Physiological Acoustics. Informa Healthcare.
: When people fail to teach their dogs to walk without pulling on the leash, they often resort to using pain-inflicting prong or choke collars to help manage the dog’s pulling, reducing his strength advantage. It’s far more rewarding and effective to employ a force-free trainer to teach you and your dog to stop pulling! (By the way, those cute scarves don’t fool anyone; it’s obvious when there is a prong collar underneath the fabric.) Photo by Capuski, Getty Images
Why do so few people teach their dogs to walk on leash without pulling? It seems like this very basic behavior would be the top priority of anyone who takes their dogs anywhere, but I hardly ever see dogs with good leash manners. That might be an exaggeration, but I swear that a dog who doesn’t pull is the exception, not the rule.
I think that part of the problem is that people take walking together for granted; they just sort of expect their dogs to know to stay near them. But if you’ve ever walked with your dog off-leash, you know that the way most humans walk doesn’t come close to the way that most dogs walk. We tend to move forward with purpose – we know where we are going and we tend to travel at a steady pace. In contrast, left to their own devices, almost all dogs will run ahead, stop to smell things, fall behind, race to catch up, and run ahead, repeating this cycle for any but the longest walks. On very long walks, they might start to walk with us out of sheer tiredness – but the sight of a strange bird or bunny or friend ahead on the trail will stimulate them into another race ahead/fall back/run to catch up sequence.
Also, our walking speed tends to be faster than the walking pace of many dogs, but slower than their usual trot. They have to constantly adjust – walk, trot, walk, trot – to match our monotonous trudge, and that’s annoying! But not nearly as aggravating as the fact that we hardly ever stop to smell anything.
The reality is, most people are just as vexed with their dogs’ leash manners as their dogs are with the humans’ lack of recognition of canine needs and wants. Frustrated dogs, getting few opportunities to do anything enjoyable on the walk, start to tune out and ignore their human’s effort to guide or control them, which tends to lead to the purchase and use of pain-inflicting dog-management tools such as prong, pinch, or choke collars. I call them management tools rather than training tools, because no one seems to use them in a way that would teach the dog to stop pulling; sadly, most dogs I see wearing these collars are still pulling and ignoring their owners! It’s just that the owners have a little more leverage than they did with a flat collar.
If you’re struggling with your dog on walks, don’t delay any longer. Invest in a few private or group dog-training lessons with a force-free trainer who can show you how to make it worth your dog’s while to walk alongside you. You (and your dog) will be so glad you did.
We’re not proponents of making pet dogs live outdoors 24/7. But the Dog Palace Insulated Heated Dog House can keep an outdoor dog warm in the coldest temperatures.
No dog should be left outdoors in freezing weather for prolonged periods, but an insulated and/or heated dog house can keep your dog comfortable if your dog must spend a significant amount of time outside on winter days.
Insulated dog houses use blanket insulation, foam sprays, foam boards, rock wool, cork, or other temperature-stabilizing materials to preserve body heat. Heated dog houses combine insulation with a heat source (usually an electric heating pad) to provide extra warmth. Either type of Insulated dog house can be used year-round to provide a comfortable environment for your dog, even during hot summers.
The best insulated dog houses contain several inches of foam or other insulation throughout their floors, roofs, and walls to prevent heat loss. Their design prevents power cords from being accessible to the dog, to prevent accidental electrocution caused by a dog chewing a cord.
Here are some recommended models:
The Dog Palace Insulated Heated Dog House ($430 at Chewy.com) accommodates medium- and large-size dogs (which the manufacturer describes as dogs who are 26.5 inches or less at the shoulder). It includes a heater with a remote and digital thermostat, has a raised floor and draining system to keep your pup dry, and opens with a double-hinged swinging door. Its maker, ASL Solutions, also sells an insulated, heated dog house for very large or multiple dogs (the Colossal Round Barn Dog House, for $521) and an insulated one without a heater for dogs who stand less than 16 inches at the shoulder (the DP Hunter Dog House) for $157. All of these models are sold with a 10-year guarantee against cracking or breaking.
Small dogs don’t need giant houses – in fact, a heated house designed for cats can work well for a puppy or small-breed dog. The K&H Pet Products Outdoor Heated Multi-Kitty House ($88 at Amazon.com) is easy to assemble and clean, well-insulated, and is warmed by an electric heating pad that covers only half of the house’s floor (so the dog or cat can choose to rest on the unheated portion of the floor if they prefer). The large size (meaning large for cats) measures 21.5 inches wide x 26.5 inches long x 15.5 inches tall and has two clear plastic swinging doors, which let light inside and allow the pet to see what’s going on outside the house. Note that this product, while said to be weather-resistant, is not meant to be used without protection from rain or snow; it’s best situated in a garage or barn, or on a covered porch.
An alternative to a dog house that is equipped with a heater is using an electric heating pad designed for outdoor use in whatever waterproof dog house you already have. These products are safe for providing warmth to even rain-soaked dogs, but should not be immersed in water. K&H Pet Products offers half-circle models that are designed to fit PetMate igloo-style houses (such as the K&H Lectro-Kennel Igloo-Style Outdoor Heated Pad ($59 to $114, depending on size) as well as standard rectangular heating pads ($41 to $109), that are activated by the dog’s body weight. This heats the hard plastic pad (which comes with a washable fleece cover) to a maximum temperature of 102° F (a dog’s internal temperature). K&H also offers a soft outdoor heating pad, but the hard plastic ones, we’ve found, have the advantage of not inviting chewing from bored dogs or curious puppies.
: If you are fairly sedentary, have limited mobility, or just like lower-energy dogs best, consider these breeds for your next canine companion. Photo by Cavan Images, Getty Images.
You have realized that your lifestyle is best suited for a low-key canine companion. So which of the breed-types are known to be low-energy dogs? These calm canines range from small to giant, so you have your choice of size. If you’re also looking for a dog who is easy to care for take note: Some low-energy breeds also have extra grooming or medical needs. Here are some of the better-known options:
Low-Energy Large Breeds
Many giant breeds are known for their calm demeanor – but also for short life spans (6 to 10 years on average). These big guys may be particularly prone to several health conditions, including hip dysplasia, dilated cardiomyopathy, and bloat/torsion – and some of them are fairly well known for their propensity to drool! But the dogs of these breeds tend to be very mellow, easy-going temperaments:
Bernard – Usually lovable, gentle goofballs who enjoy cuddling.
Newfoundland – Typically gentle and sweet-tempered.
Great Pyrenees – Generally confident, strong-willed but gentle dogs.
Bernese Mountain Dog – Often called “gentle giants,” intelligent and loyal.
Irish Wolfhound – Known as particularly patient, thoughtful, and dignified dogs.
Great Dane – Described as devoted, gentle, and reserved.
Low-Energy Medium-Sized Breeds
Many mid-sized dogs are high energy (think herding, sporting, and working breeds). Here are some that tend toward calm. Some of the health issues common to these breeds include hypothyroidism, hip dysplasia, canine atopic dermatitis (particularly in breeds with skin folds, like the Shar Pei), breathing issues (in flat-faced breeds such as Bulldogs), dilated cardiomyopathy, and back problems (particularly in short-legged, long-backed dogs such as Bassett Hounds).
Chow Chow – These reserved and dignified dogs can be cautious around strangers.
Shar-Pei – These independent dogs can also be suspicious of strangers.
English Bulldog – Described as kind, friendly, and dignified.
Bassett Hound – Sweet-tempered, affectionate, and gentle.
Clumber Spaniel – Tend to be dignified, loyal and calm.
Low-Energy Small Dog Breeds
Appreciate the value of a low-energy lap dog! Some do have very significant health issues, especially breathing problems with the currently very popular brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds (such as the French Bulldog, Pug, Boston Terrier, Pekingese) and the adorable but afflicted Cavalier King Charles Spaniel (skull too small for the brain, breathing problems, eye problems, heart problems). If buying a puppy, look for breeders who can provide health records for the pup’s parents. Also, note that some of these breeds have high grooming needs.
Bichon Frise – Generally friendly, intelligent, and cheerful.
Maltese –Reportedly smart, playful, and sweet with a mild demeanor.
Havanese – Described as friendly, affectionate, playful, and intelligent.
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel – Known to be affectionate, playful, gentle, and sociable.
Pug – Tend to be affectionate, charming, gentle, and playful.
French Bulldog – The current darling of the dog show ring, known as bright, easygoing, and affectionate.
Boston Terrier – Friendly, affectionate, and gentle.
Pekingese – Loyal and loving, can be aloof and protective with strangers.
Regardless of which breeds have a reputation for being low-energy dogs, remember that each dog is an individual. If you make the mistake of snatching up the first Bassett Hound you come across (or purchasing one sight-unseen after an internet search) you could end up with a wild-and-crazy non-stop energizer doggie. Be sure to carefully evaluate the dog in front of you to make sure she’ll be the right fit for your low-key world. Don’t forget that all dogs need enrichment and mental stimulation, even if they don’t need lots of physical exercise, and you’ll need to watch their diet so you don’t end up with an obese low-energy dog.
You can use the same poop bag to collect your dog’s fecal sample as you use to clean up after him. Credit: Petko Ninov | Getty Images
Bringing a stool sample to the vet’s office may feel gross and weird, but it’s how to check for worms and other parasites in your dog’s poop. The dog fecal test can contain useful information about why he isn’t feeling his best! So, grab that plastic bag! Here’s how to do a good stool sample collection:
Dog Fecal Sample Collection
You can collect a stool sample from your dog using any poop bag just like when cleaning up after your dog. You don’t need much poop. Enough to fill a shot glass is plenty. And throw in any worms or tapeworm segments that you see.
If you don’t have any poop bags handy, put them on your shopping list and grab any intact plastic bag (grocery bags frequently have small holes, so use them with caution). Invert the bag, place it over your hand like a glove, grab some poop, and then fold the bag right-side-out so that the poop is contained. Then seal or tie the bag closed and head to the vet right away because fresh poop is best.
Fresh, uncontaminated samples are the best for identifying worms and parasites in stool. And be sure that the poop is from the right dog. The best option is to go out with your dog the morning of your appointment and collect the stool as soon as your dog defecates. If the appointment is in the afternoon, you can store it in a refrigerator temporarily.
When to Get a Fecal Test for Dogs
A dog fecal test is usually in order if your dog has any of these signs:
“Grains of rice” in stool or around rectum (Hint: They aren’t rice)
Some signs are obvious indications of what is wrong, such as a visible parasite in poop shows that your dog has worms.
Others, like diarrhea and weight loss, are a little more general and can be caused by a variety of infections and illnesses. But a fecal test for your dog is a quick and inexpensive way to rule out parasites as a cause of your dog’s troubles.
Types of Fecal Tests for Dogs
Almost all veterinary facilities can do a simple dog fecal test in the office. Veterinary staff will take a small amount of the stool sample and mix it with a specific solution. This poopy mixture then sits, allowing time for the parasites and parasite eggs to float to the top while the food debris stays at the bottom.
A vet tech or veterinarian will then look at the sample under a microscope. These fecal flotations usually reveal eggs from worms but can also show protozoa such as giardia. Your veterinarian will identify the parasite in stool and prescribe your dog a medication to target that parasite.
Your vet can also send the stool sample out to a lab for more thorough testing. This helps find more subtle infections and can evaluate blood in your dog’s stool.
A little Frito chips smell from your dog’s feet might be icky, but it’s likely not a problem unless you see him licking and/or chewing at his paws.
Credit: C. Karin/FOAP | Getty Images
There are three primary reasons why your dog might smell like Fritos or other corn chips:
He raided your stash and ate all your chips.
His feet just smell that way.
He has a bacterial or fungal infection on his paws, ears, or skin like pseudomonas or proteus.
Dog Frito Feet and Ears
Dogs naturally have a variety of bacteria and yeast living on their skin. Under normal conditions, these microbes live in harmony with your pup and don’t cause any trouble. If your dog’s feet have a slight eau de corn chip, don’t worry. This smell is just from the normal bacteria that end up on dog feet throughout daily life.
These “Frito feet dogs” will often have a reddish tinge to the skin and hair on their paws from licking and may have a greasy discharge. More extreme cases may also show swelling and flakey skin.
Ears are the other common site for yeast and bacterial infections. Ear infections can have a discharge ranging from oily black to flakey beige and everything in between. Along with the discharge and odor, your dog’s ears may also be red and irritated and you may notice frequent scratching and head shaking.
Home Remedies for Frito Feet Dogs
As long as there are no symptoms of infection, you can leave your pup be or just wipe his paws clean with a damp cloth and then dry them thoroughly.
But if your dog’s feet also show signs of irritation or you notice your dog is licking his feet a lot, something is amiss. Home remedies for dog Frito feet, such as mixing baking soda and apple cider vinegar with water for a foot bath, might help with the smell but will not necessarily address the underlying infection.
Instead, be smart. Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian. Paw and ear infections are not an emergency, so you can wait for an appointment in regular business hours. Your veterinarian will take a swab of any discharge to look at under a microscope and identify the cause of the infection.
You will likely be sent home with topical medications to target your dog’s type of infection, like ear meds for ear infections and/or ointments or perhaps a medicated shampoo for paw infections. Systemic oral meds are reserved for chronic or severe cases. If your dog is prone to these infections, your veterinarian will also discuss strategies for preventing them, including routine ear washes or medicated wipes for paws.
Remember, a little dog Frito feet smell isn’t necessary a worry. The problems start when an infectious type of microbe moves in, or a health condition such as allergies or skin irritation allows normally harmless microbes to grow out of control.
When too many microbes build up in an area, however, they can cause irritation, discharge, and an unusual odor. Yeast and certain types of bacteria (including Pseudomonas and Proteus) can cause a distinctive odor that smells just like the beloved Fritos corn chips.
If we’re fortunate enough to have them live to old age, at some point, most of our canine companions begin to lose their hearing and may eventually be, for all intents and purposes, deaf. It’s painful to watch a beloved dog become less and less responsive to his environment because he’s unaware of what’s going on around him, and even more so when it limits your ability to communicate with him. The thought of a hearingimpaired dog wandering off and not being able to hear your calls is frightening. Here are five things you can do if your dog’s hearing isn’t what it used to be:
Purchase a disaster whistle and condition it as a recall cue, by pairing its sound with high-value treats. The Storm Whistle, reported to be twice as loud as any other mouth-blown whistle in the world, is available in stores, catalogues, and from stormwhistles.com (314-436-3332). We used a Storm Whistle as our recall signal when our aging Kelpie, Katie, lost her hearing; it worked like a dream. Instead of having to walk the fenced backyard looking for her, we could just blow the whistle, and she’d come trundling out from behind the garage. Blow the whistle, and give your dog a high-value treat until your dog gets the whistle-equals-food association. Then you should be good to go. (By the way, you might want to first try the whistle outside, and cover your ears or use earplugs. It’s really loud.)
Use hand signals. Every time our dogs reach the old-age-can’t-hear stage I appreciate having taught them basic hand signals as well as verbal cues. Since dogs communicate primarily through body language, hand signals are easy to teach, especially if you do it when your dog can still hear well. As your dog ages, it’s a great opportunity to expand your visual cue vocabulary. Some owners use American Sign Language (ASL) to communicate with their hearing-impaired dogs.
Run interference at home. This is all about management. If you have a multi-dog household, one or more of your other dogs make take offense when your geriatric pal doesn’t respond quickly enough to their signals – because he doesn’t hear them, and therefore doesn’t look and notice their body language. Manage your household to prevent encounters that cause tension due to his lack of hearing and subsequent lack of response. This often includes keeping potential problem dogs separated when you are not home.
Run interference in the real world. There are many situations outside your home where your increasingly hearing-impaired dog may run into trouble. If you’ve been casual about letting her be off-leash near traffic, tighten up the reins. She may no longer be able to hear oncoming cars, and a misstep could be deadly. Same thing if you hike on bike paths and sidewalks; you may not be aware of the extent to which she has relied on her hearing to move out of the way of approaching bikes, skateboards, and joggers. She may also need help around other non-family dogs, since she can’t hear them coming either. You could try scheduling supervised play dates with a small circle of appropriate canine friends instead of trips to the dog park, where you have little to no control over her dog encounters.
Make reasonable accommodations and give her the benefit of the doubt. Keep in mind that she’s not ignoring you; she can’t hear you! It’s easy to get cross when your dog doesn’t respond to your cues. Condition her to an unexpected touch from behind (touch makes chicken happen!) so you can let her know you’re there and need her to move – or go around her. And if you feel yourself becoming annoyed with your dog, take a deep breath and remember that she probably didn’t hear you. Heck, if it’s age-related hearing loss she could be losing her vision too, so she may not even see as well as you think. Don’t be annoyed if she doesn’t move out of your path as quickly as she once did, or she fails to come flying to your call. She’s doing the best she can; be patient with her.
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Woody and Boone, beloved alumni of the Northwest SPCA in Oroville, CA.
For my family of origin, Thanksgiving was always been the best holiday of the year. I was born in the 1960s, and my parents had moved us from a large city, to suburbs, and, by the time I was making memories, to a rural community where my brother rode dirt bikes and my sisters and I rode horses. And, of course, we had a lot of dogs – sooooo many dogs. Spay/neuter was not a thing in those days, so pretty much every dog we owned procreated, some more than once. We always found homes for the mixed-breed puppies – often, sending our aunts and uncles and cousins home from sharing our Thanksgiving dinner with a puppy or two.
Today, I wince when I think about all those puppies and that casual Thanksgiving gifting of puppies. After more than 20 years of volunteering in animal shelters, and fostering (at last count) about 150 puppies for my local shelter in the past 10 or so years, I am a bear about spay/neuter for all dogs except for those owned by the most responsible, dedicated, and educated people imaginable. Last week, I spent a couple of hours doing an audit of my local shelter, which provides services to the small town where I live as well as all the unincorporated areas in my rural county. We had 94 puppies under the age of four months in the shelter, 42 who were brought into the shelter from my town, and 52 who were brought in from the county.
How many irresponsible owners contributed to that astonishing population? The 42 puppies from town came to the shelter from 12 different places; the 52 puppies from the county came from 13 different places. That’s at least 25 mother dogs, and 25 owners who failed to either have their dogs spayed, or prevent them from being bred. As a result, if all the puppies survive, the shelter will be responsible for the vaccination, microchipping, and spay/neuter of 94 puppies – not to mention feeding and cleaning up after all of them for the weeks or even months that it takes to find them all homes.
And this is in addition to the 80 or so older puppies, adult dogs, and senior dogs that are also sharing the shelter’s 56 kennels.
Under my Thanksgiving table this year there will be eight dogs, six of whom are alumni of my shelter. The six include my two large dogs (Woody and Boone), my friend Leonora’s tiny dog (Samson, Woody’s BFF), my son and daughter-in-law’s coonhound (Cole), and two of my sister Pam’s small dogs (Lucky and Dinah). Pam’s third dog, Daisy, will also be present; she came from a Jack Russell rescue over a decade ago. My sister-in-law’s Rat Terrier (Alice) will also be present; she was rehomed from a ranching family who bought her from a breeder, but were disappointed in her lack of interest in dispatching rats and other vermin on the ranch. The three tiny puppies that Leonora is fostering for our shelter will be at her home; I know she will excuse herself from dinner early to tuck them in for the night.
Yes, my family (relatives and chosen family) is still dog-crazy. All of us are deeply grateful to our dogs for the joy and companionship they bring us, the adventures we share with them, and the comfort they give us in hard times. Out of gratitude for these priceless gifts, we donate to shelters and rescues, and we foster and adopt to help to save dog lives.
Immense, boundless thanks to the shelter workers who will be feeding dogs and cleaning kennels while we enjoy the company of our friends and family and all of their dogs today. I’ve sent an extra donation to my local shelter in honor of their workers; won’t you do the same?
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
