Some dogs nip when they get over-excited or frustrated in play. Consistently stopping the game (and putting any toys away) or redirecting the dog into a less intense activity, preferably when the dog is showing signs of getting frantic or overaroused, will help him learn that nipping always ends the fun. Photo by M and M Inc, Getty Images
What can you do about an adult dog who’s nipping? The answer depends on why he’s doing it. Each situation should be addressed differently – and none should be addressed with verbal or physical punishment.
Fear-Related Nipping
This is the most concerning of the nipping behaviors, most likely to escalate into significant aggression if not handled appropriately. This will likely involve a counter conditioning and desensitization protocol, and you might do best to utilize the services of a qualified, experienced force-free professional.
For fear-related nipping of visitors (or household members), management is your critically important first step. Keep your dog leashed or safely stashed in another room when human triggers are present, unless and until you implement a thorough behavior modification program to convince him that people don’t need to be feared.
Nipping in Excitement
Just because your dog is playing doesn’t make these nips any less painful. There are several things you can for this behavior:
Increase your dog’s mental and physical exercise so he doesn’t get so exuberant in play. Note that physical exercise should include impulse control games, like sit-and-wait-politely until you throw the ball or toy.
Teach an incompatible behavior such as “Go to Mat.”
Use “negative punishment” (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) by saying a cheerful “Oops!” and turning your back or stepping to the other side of a baby gate when he starts jumping and nipping, then marking calm behavior (with the click of a clicker, a hand signal such as a thumbs-up, or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and giving him a treat when he is calm. You can practice this with your dog tethered to keep yourself safe as well.
Nipping in Annoyance
If your dog nips in an effort to make you stop doing something, just stop! If they are things that must be done, such as nail-trimming and grooming, use cooperative care procedures to help him get happier about them.
Herding Dogs Who Nip
These dogs have a very strong genetic propensity to nip at things that move because they’re supposed to!
You can manage this behavior with a “Search” behavior – tossing treats away from you to occupy your dog’s teeth with things other than your skin or use a “Go to Mat” behavior as described above. You can ask him to target to strategically placed target objects around your property. Perhaps the best solution is to engage him in herding activities where he has an outlet for his herding behavior and will learn additional control cues – either actual herding with sheep, ducks, or cows, or the sport of Treibball.
Yes, nipping is annoying, but you can teach your dog more appropriate behaviors. Figure out what his motivation is for nipping, implement appropriate management and modification measures, and your dog can learn to keep his teeth to himself.
Librela is the first monoclonal antibody the FDA has approved for use in dogs. The active ingredient in the drug binds to and inhibits the biological activity of a protein called canine nerve growth factor, which has been found to be elevated in dogs with osteoarthritis and is involved in the regulation of pain. This therapy could vastly improve the lives of dogs who don’t experience adequate pain relief from NSAIDs. Photo by cynoclub, Getty Images
A new treatment for managing osteoarthritis pain was recently approved by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration. Librela is a once-monthly injection administered by your dog’s vet. The target release date – when it will become available to veterinarians – is November 2023.
Librela is a monoclonal antibody that binds to nerve growth factor (NGF), part of the pain-signaling pathway in osteoarthritis. Binding to NGF prevents the pain signal from being transmitted to the brain.
Librela has been used in Europe for more than two years, with good success in managing canine osteoarthritis pain. The dogs’ pain assessment scores significantly decreased after two injections of Librela given 28 days apart. Their pain continued to be well-managed with monthly injections.
A feline version called Solensia has been available in the U.S. since January 2022. Many cat owners (including me!) have seen significant improvement in their cats’ mobility and overall comfort since starting Solensia.
There is no minimum weight requirement for Librela, so it can be used in dogs of any size. Dogs should be at least 1 year of age before starting Librela. Librela has not been studied with the concurrent use of NSAIDs.
Librela is labeled for use only in managing osteoarthritis pain of the limb joints, such as hips, stifles (knees), shoulders, and elbows. It has not been studied in managing osteoarthritis pain of the spine.
The most common side effects of Librela include urinary tract infection, bacterial skin infections, and dermatitis at the injection site. Some dogs experienced a rise in blood urea nitrogen (BUN), one of the markers for possible kidney disease on a blood chemistry panel. However, there were no other indications that Librela caused renal damage. Your veterinarian may want to complete baseline bloodwork before starting
Librela may be an effective part of a multi-modal approach to treating osteoarthritis. Ask your veterinarian if Librela may help manage your dog’s osteoarthritis pain.
Our natural reaction to the sight of our dog or puppy with a dangerous or valuable item in his mouth is to react strongly and yell or chase him, but these are both counter-productive choices. Photo by Sansargo, Getty Images
Puppies use their mouths to explore their worlds. This means that your puppy may trot into the room with something in her mouth that you don’t want to her have. Maybe it’s valuable, like your brand new AirPods. Maybe it’s precious, like your son’s favorite stuffed bear. Or maybe it’s dangerous, like a bottle of prescription meds. Whatever it is, how should you get your puppy to drop it? Knowing how to teach a puppy to “drop it,” can keep both your possessions and your puppy safe.
It’s counter-intuitive, but if you have not yet taught your dog to “trade” or “drop it,” the best way to get the item back immediately is to give it zero attention. If there’s anything more enticing to a dog than a new thing, it’s a new thing that somebody else wants really badly! (Don’t believe me? Watch a dog suddenly care about that stupid old bone they’ve never ever chewed until the neighbor’s dog comes over and picks it up.)
The second you see a forbidden item in your puppy’s mouth, spring into action . . . elsewhere! Make your puppy suddenly think that the item is worthless because 1) you aren’t paying attention to it, and 2) you seem to be doing something else that’s really exciting. Humans aren’t the only ones who experience FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out).
Leap up. Skip to the kitchen singing the, “I’m getting out the ham” song. Be goofy. This alone (provided it doesn’t happen all the time) can be enough to startle your dog into dropping the item.
If that happens, do not run back to the scene of the crime, grab the item, and give a big lecture about how he’s never to do this again. You will have undone all your good work! Instead, prove to your dog that it always pays to see what you’re up to when you’re acting goofy: Give him that ham you grabbed from the fridge. Ask for some sits and spins and downs, and reward with that ham. Then do a kibble scatter on the floor so it’ll take him a little while to clean up, and then slip out to quietly grab the item and put it up high. Phew! Done.
Another option is to make a treat trail. Make a little path of ham bits starting right at your puppy’s feet and heading away from the item. (You can’t eat ham and maintain possession of the prescription sunglasses.)
Offering up a special tug toy might do the trick for your tug-obsessed dog. Or, if your dog is in love with a neighbor’s dog, it might work to announce an immediate trip next door for a play session. Your knowledge of your dog will help you figure out what will create the FOMO elsewhere that will make him drop the item.
What Not to Do
Maybe the approach above strikes you as silly, when you are inclined to choose a more direct or even stern approach. Before you do that, be aware that the strategy you use might spell the difference between a dog who constantly looks for “bad” things to pick up in her mouth, and one who never develops that habit. The wrong response to a dog who loves to pick up stuff could very well promote the development of resource-guarding behaviors – a bigger problem than losing a few items to chewing. Serious resource guarding calls for help from an experienced force-free trainer.
Many people instinctively try the yell-and-grab method, chasing down the pup and physically extracting the item from the puppy’s mouth. After all, every second counts when it comes to either damage inflicted to the item or danger to the pup from ingestion.
But is the yell-and-grab really the fastest, safest way to retrieve the item? Nope. Even if it works in this particular moment, you’ve set yourself up for trouble. Here are some likely unintended and unpleasant outcomes of this approach:
Seeing your approach, puppy knows she has just seconds to work with, so she gobbles quickly instead of just playing with the item. Now that chicken bone she found under the bush in the park is down her throat. What did pup learn? Nothing, but you’ve now got a big vet bill.
The pup is delighted with her newfound attention. Pup runs and scampers, staying just out of reach, having a blast! What did pup learn? “To have a super happy time with Mom, just grab something that’s not a puppy toy!”
The pup is scared of your shockingly big mad voice and fast movement, so she runs and hides under the couch. It takes a long time to get her (and the item) out. What did pup learn? “Don’t ever trust Dad; he’s unpredictable!”
The pup begins to realize that you are constantly trying to steal her special treasures, so she goes on the offense, growling and snapping. What has she learned? “These people take all the good stuff, so be ready to fend them off.” This last one is serious; you may find out too late that you have inadvertently contributed to the creation of a resource-guarder; you’ll need a good force-free trainer to help deal with this.
Using a Cue for “Drop it”
If you have invested time in teaching your puppy that giving something up to you will pay off for her, then you’re all set for this key moment. You can calmly use the cue you’ve taught (either “drop it” or “trade”), your pup will relinquish the item and receive a reward, and you’ll be on your way.
Sometimes people hear the description of the skip-and-sing approach and say, “Come on! My puppy grabs stuff all day long! I can’t do this whole shebang every time!”
It’s quiz time! What is wrong with the sentence, “My puppy grabs stuff all day long?”
You get an A+ if you answered: “Any self-respecting new puppy will grab anything interesting in his path, especially when bored. It is up to the people who took him from Planet Dog to create a safe environment for him here on Planet Human. That means gates and crates, careful supervision, plenty of exercise, and puppy-appropriate enrichment.”
If your pet is suffering from diarrhea, your first step should be to ask your veterinarian to help you rule out illness or a parasite infection. If these causes have been eliminated, adding dietary fiber to your dog’s diet may help normalize his stool. Photo by harpazo_hope, Getty Images
Dogs cannot digest dietary fiber; as they lack the digestive enzymes needed to break the chemical bonds present in these compounds. Nevertheless, when fed at the proper quantity in the form of a good dietary source of fiber or a fiber supplement, this indigestible material can have a positive impact on your dog’s microbiome, gut health, and stool quality. Dietary fiber can:
Slow gastric emptying (helpful for dogs suffering from loose stools or diarrhea)
Add bulk to the diet of a dog who needs to lose weight
Provide benefits that selectively favor the growth and/or activity of the gut’s native beneficial bacteria species, which in turn:
produce short chain fatty acids, which
help maintain intestinal electrolyte and fluid balance
inhibit the growth of pathogenic microbes
provide an energy source for intestinal cell function and replication
There are two types of dietary fiber, fermentable fiber (also known as soluble fiber) and nonfermentable fiber (also known as insoluble fiber).
Fermentable fiber
Fermentable fiber cannot be broken down by the dog and passes through the small intestine largely unchanged by digestion. When fermentable fiber reaches the large intestine, the bacteria that reside therein chemically breaks it down and uses it as a food source. These bacteria produce short chain fatty acids, which are the preferred form of energy for our pet’s colon cells. These short chain fatty acids are absorbed by the intestines and help to promote a healthy gut by providing an energy source for cellular function and replication.1
Short chain fatty acids also help to prevent diarrhea in dogs by maintaining intestinal electrolyte and fluid balance, enhancing the absorption of sodium, promoting the growth of beneficial intestinal microflora, and inhibiting the growth of pathogenic microbes. Dogs who consume diets containing fermentable fiber have increased colon weights and increased intestinal surface area compared to dogs fed diets containing nonfermentable fiber. The result? Dogs fed a diet containing fermentable fibers have greater potential for water absorption than those not fed fermentable fibers.2
The major sources of fermentable fiber used in commercial canine diets include cereal grains, legumes, and other plant ingredients such as beet pulp and rice bran. These soluble fibers also have the capacity for binding to water, which can increase the viscosity of the intestinal contents, slowing gastric emptying. This is especially helpful for dogs suffering from loose stools or diarrhea, as these soluble fibers in the diet can help bind the excess water present in the intestines.1
Some fermentable fibers also act as prebiotics – food ingredients that provide benefits by selectively favoring the growth and/or activity of the native beneficial bacteria species (such as Bifidobacterium and lactobacilli) that reside within the colon of the host animal. Prebiotics impact the gut microbiome by acting as a food source for these beneficial bacterial colonies within the dog’s intestinal tract.1
Providing prebiotic fiber in conjunction with probiotics (beneficial bacterial species fed to the dog in the form of dietary supplements) helps to ensure that the beneficial bacteria you are supplementing your pet with have everything they need to thrive. Inulin is commonly used as a prebiotic fiber supplement in diets and is typically sourced from chicory root. Other varieties of prebiotics can be found naturally in ingredients such as fruits, vegetables, grains, psyllium, and sugar beet root.1,2
While fermentable fiber is an important factor for the maintenance of gut health in your dog, the amount and type of fermentable fiber should be considered, as large amounts have the potential to cause digestive upset. One of the byproducts of bacterial fermentation is gas, meaning that too much highly fermentable fiber can be the cause of flatulence and stomach discomfort. Because of this, moderately fermentable fibers, such as beet pulp or rice bran, are preferrable to highly fermentable fibers like pectin and guar gum. Other fibers, such as cellulose, locust bean gum, and xanthium gum, have very low fermentability and are less likely to cause excess gas production but are also less effective for the production of short chain fatty acids.2
Nonfermentable or insoluble fiber
Nonfermentable carbohydrates, or insoluble fiber, is comprised of the non-digestible components of plants (such as cellulose) that are not easily fermented by intestinal microbiota. This type of fiber is also termed bulk fiber, as it helps with stool bulking when added to the diet. This type of fiber is especially useful when considering foods for dogs who are overweight or who gain weight easily, as insoluble fiber provides bulk to the diet without adding calories. Insoluble fiber also helps to normalize intestinal transit rate and can help bind water and toxins in the intestinal tract.
Sources of insoluble fiber include beet pulp, fruit and vegetable pomaces, bran, and cellulose.1
Adding fiber to your dog’s diet
There are many options available to owners who would like to increase the fiber content of their dog’s diets – most typically, in an effort to control a dog’s chronic diarrhea or constipation. You can purchase commercial supplements and treats that provide your pet with additional dietary fiber. For pre-biotic supplementation, look for products containing inulin. While you can add a variety of raw plant ingredients to the diet to add bulk fiber to the diet, many dogs find these to be unpalatable, leading people to search for tastier alternatives.
Many fiber sources contain both fermentable and nonfermentable fibers, providing the benefits of both. Remember that many commercial foods already contain fiber, so be careful not to over supplement, as too much fiber can cause diarrhea or constipation in dogs whose stools are healthy. Additionally, any supplementation of fiber should be done gradually to allow your dog’s digestive system time to adjust. If you have any questions or concerns regarding supplementing your dog’s diet with fiber, be sure to consult your veterinarian.
References:
Nutrient requirements of dogs and cats. (2018). The National Academies Press.
Case, L. P., Daristotle, L., Hayek, M. G., & Raasch, M. F. (2011).Canine and Feline Nutrition: A resource for companion animal professionals. Mosby.
Chondrodystrophy can be a non-issue for most dogs. Short-legged dog like this beautiful Corgi lead active lives, including in dog sports like herding and agility. Credit: Dmitriy Kostylev | Getty Images
As cute as dogs with short legs are, their look is the result of a cartilage disorder called chondrodystrophy. This disorder is caused by genetic mutations that produce the desired short legs. Breeders purposely selected dogs with short legs and long bodies for breeding, passing down the short-legged deformity to future generations. Chondrodystrophy can be a non-issue for some dogs, but it can also result in IVDD (more on that below).
Affected breeds include:
Dachshund
Bassett Hound
Welsh Corgi (both Pembroke and Cardigan)
Pekingese
Shih Tzu
French Bulldog
Mixed-breed dogs can be chondrodystrophic, too, with a short-legged appearance. (If you’re concerned that your dog may have this gene mutation, you can get DNA testing done and/or ask your breeder if he or she uses DNA testing.)
Dogs With Short Legs and Abnormal Growth
When limb bones grow in an abnormal direction, associated bones also can grow abnormally to compensate. The result can be an angular limb deformity, and the appearance of a shortened limb.
Many short-legged dogs have toes that do not point straight (in the same direction as the muzzle), and that is because of the angular limb deformity. This can happen in the forelimbs or the hindlimbs, and the toes can point either in (pigeon-toed) or out (duck-toed).
The dog’s elbow, which is located at the top of the dog’s front legs, is most often affected by chondrodystrophy. Credit: Enid Hajderi/Stocktreck Images | Getty Images
One of the joints most often affected by this disorder is the elbow. The elbow is a complex joint. There are three bones (humerus, ulna, radius) that need to grow in synchrony to form the normal elbow. If any of these bones have altered growth relative to the others, misalignment can result. This can cause pain and lameness due to the resultant joint instability.
Many of these dogs cope well with the deformities in their limbs, and it is not recommended to treat the deformity unless that individual dog is in pain.
What Is IVDD?
Chondrodystrophic dogs often battle intervertebral disc disease (IVDD), which is a problem with the vertebral column and the spine. The intervertebral disk is a cartilaginous cushion that sits between individual vertebrae, providing flexibility for the neck, back and tail.
Neck or back pain (holding his head low or unable to fully lift his head)
Lameness
Uncoordinated movement
Urinary and/or bowel incontinence
Difficulty breathing
Paralysis
Chondrodystrophic dogs often experience accelerated aging of the intervertebral discs, which can cause problems when they bulge or herniate into the spinal canal and pinch the spine. The result can cause pain, lameness, paralysis of limbs, and possible loss of bladder and bowel control. This is a devastating disorder that can be expensive to treat if surgery is required, and in some cases, surgery cannot restore comfort and mobility to the patient.
These dogs can be put in carts to give them more independence in their mobility, but they will require nursing care, usually administered by their owners, to manage urinary and fecal incontinence, or to express the urinary bladder and manually evacuate stool out of the rectum.
Some dogs are euthanized because the surgery can be so expensive, and the nursing care can be overwhelming for owners.
Due to the increased risk for IVDD, it is wise for owners of chondrodystrophic dogs to consider getting pet insurance in case their beloved dog requires expensive treatment. Be prepared, however, to pay for add-on coverage, which can be expensive.
While spay and neuter surgeries on dogs have become routine and commonplace, they are still fairly major operations. Spay surgeries for female dogs are more invasive, but neuter surgery on an adult male dog is not insignificant! Photo by Nancy Kerns
At most veterinary hospitals, spay and neuter surgeries are charged according to the dog’s weight, with the potential for additional fees for females who are overweight, in heat, or pregnant, and males who have one or both testicles retained in their abdomen (rather than “dropped” into their scrotum). But the geographic location of the veterinary hospital also affects the price. A spay surgery that might cost $200 in a smaller suburban city could cost as much as $800 in a large city.
Nationwide averages for spaying healthy females run between $200 and $500, while averages for neutering healthy males run between $75 and $250.
Be aware that the price quote from any given clinic may cover only the cost of the surgery; some clinics charge separately for pre-surgical blood tests, IV fluids administered during surgery, and oral pain medication to administer to the dog for a few days after surgery. In some clinics, these services are optional and must be authorized by the owner before surgery, while in others, these services are considered mandatory. Be sure to ask whether there are charges beyond the cost of the surgery itself.
Pre-surgical blood tests help veterinarians determine whether the dog is truly healthy enough to undergo surgery safely. A complete blood count (CBC) reveals the number and percentages of the dog’s red blood cells, white blood cells, and platelets. The results would let the veterinarian know whether the dog had anemia, an infection of any kind, and/or a problem with blood clotting. A blood chemistry test gives the vet more information about how the dog’s kidneys and liver are functioning. These organs play the most significant role in processing the sedative and anesthetic medications your dog is given before and during surgery. A veterinarian who knows – before surgery – that this function is compromised in the patient can take special precautions with the medications to protect the patient.
While private veterinary clinics are the most expensive, they are best able to prevent and address complications and may offer the best pain-control regimen for their patients.
Low-cost spay/neuter
In most areas, there are nonprofit organizations that help organize and finance clinics and spay/neuter programs to help reduce costs. They keyword here is “nonprofit” – some of these clinics charge little more than their costs for the surgeries! Low-cost spay/neuter clinics may charge as little as $40 for neutering and $100 for a spay, or as much as $75 (neuter) to $375 (spay).
Be advised that one of the ways that these clinics reduce the cost of these surgeries is by foregoing pre-surgical blood tests, IV fluids administered during surgery, and anything more than the minimum pain-relief medication (typically, an injection of Meloxicam or Carprofen that provides anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving activity for about 24 hours). Some, but not all, low-cost clinics may provide these services and medication for additional fees.
What’s involved in spay and neuter surgeries
While spay and neuter surgeries are quite routine today, spaying a female dog means removing her reproductive organs. The traditional spay procedure, which removes both the ovaries and uterus, is called an ovariohysterectomy. A more widely used procedure in Europe, one that’s becoming popular in the U.S., is the ovariectomy, which removes both ovaries and leaves the uterus undisturbed. There are risks and benefits to both procedures, as with all surgeries.
Neutering, also known as castration, is a surgical procedure that removes a male dog’s testicles, making it impossible for him to fertilize a female’s eggs and reproduce. The surgery usually reduces testosterone-driven behaviors, such as urinating to mark territory; mounting other dogs, objects, or humans; excessive roaming; and escape attempts.
When to spay or neuter
Most shelter dogs undergo spay or neuter surgery before they are sent home with adopters; their adoption fees usually only partially cover the cost of their surgeries. For the adopter, though, it’s highly cost-effective to adopt a dog who has already been surgically altered. Photo by kali9, Getty Images
According to veterinarian and author Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, the best time to spay a female dog depends on her breed and size, as some studies have shown links between the early spaying of large breeds and joint disorders and cancers. Most veterinarians spay small breeds before their first heat cycle at age 6 months, while the general recommendation for large-breed dogs is to wait until at least 12 months to spay. Overall, Dr. Fatcheric concludes, there are more pros than cons to spaying your female dog if she is not intended for breeding. Ovariohysterectomy spaying means no messy heats, no unwanted pregnancies, less chance of breast cancer, no chance of ovarian or uterine cancer, and no chance of uterine infection (pyometra), which is a common surgical emergency in older, intact (not spayed) female dogs.
Dr. Fatcheric explains that veterinarians now recommend waiting to neuter male dogs after they reach full skeletal maturity, especially large-breed males. “Allowing these dogs to grow under the influence of their sex hormones means they grow more naturally, resulting in healthier joint angles and structure,” she says. “They also grow stronger and less injury-prone tendons and ligaments. We have scientific proof that neutering a dog too early potentially makes him more prone to orthopedic problems like hip dysplasia and torn cruciate ligaments in the knee.” This changes the male neutering timetable to later dates than were previously recommended, such as 12 months of age for small breeds, 18 months for medium to large breeds, and 2 years for giant-breed dogs.
Simple or complicated
The simplest spay/neuter surgeries are performed on young, healthy, active, slender dogs. Females in season, pregnant, older, or overweight have more complicated operations that cost more. A male dog’s neutering is far less expensive than spaying because the surgery is less invasive, although if your dog’s testes are still inside his body and have not properly dropped (called cryptorchid testes), the procedure is more complicated and costly.
How to locate lower-cost spay/neuter services
The North Shore Animal League America SpayUSA is a nationwide referral network for affordable spay and neuter services. For over 20 years SpayUSA has helped owners obtain low-cost, quality spay and neuter services for their cats and dogs. Enter your zip code at the link above or call toll-free (800) 248-SPAY.
Your local PetSmart store can connect you to the company’s $25 Spay and Neuter Program, which is available to pet owners who cannot otherwise afford the surgery. Requirements vary by program and location. The $25 fee typically covers the cost of surgery, including anesthesia and pain medication. Some programs include a pre-surgical exam and post-operative care.
Best Friends Animal Society maintains a resource map of spay/neuter network partners throughout the United States. The map currently lists 791 low-cost spay/neuter clinics, 685 voucher or financial assistance programs, and 85 mobile clinics.
Check local and county animal shelters for information about spay/neuter programs in your area. Look for statewide programs, too, such as these representative examples:
Do not share your beer with your dog, or leave glasses of beer where your dog might drink it! Alcohol is toxic for dogs. The “dog beers” marketed by Anheuser-Busch and other companies do not contain alcohol. Photo by Javier Zayas Photography/Getty Images
Ever hear of Busch Dog Brew? Created by Anheuser-Busch, Busch Dog Brew made its debut in 2020. Advertised as a way to share a cold one with your best friend, Busch Dog Brew contains pork broth, vegetables, herbs, spices, and water; in other words, it doesn’t contain any alcohol, or resemble real beer in the slightest! It’s just a beverage that your dog may enjoy, cleverly packaged to appeal to you! And, just in time for autumn, Busch has released the limited edition Pumpkin Spice Busch Dog Brew, containing pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, and water. Each beverage can be served in a bowl or poured over your dog’s favorite dry food. The Busch Dog Brews are available online at Shop Beer Gear. For each $10 four-pack of Dog Brew sold, the company donates $1 to the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in Kanab, Utah.
There are a number of other, smaller companies producing their own dog-branded beverages in cute, funny, and/or punny packaging. The Good Boy Dog Beer Company was founded by Texas bar owners Megan and Steve Long when Rocky, their oldest Rottweiler, developed food sensitivities and they experimented with treats and foods that agreed with him. Their most successful creations became Good Boy Dog Beers. Their website explains, “We use all the same equipment as a brewery, we just skip the fermentation (alcohol-producing) part.”
Good Boy’s flavors and ingredients (in addition to filtered water) include Crotch Sniffin’ Ale (unsalted peanuts, unsalted almonds, whole grain oats, and cinnamon), Good Girl Dog Beer (whole bone-in chicken, turmeric, ginger, basil, carrots, and fennel), IPA Lot In The Yard (bone-in pork butt, turmeric, basil, mint, fennel, ginger, and celery), and Mailman Malt Licker (chicken, turmeric, ginger, oranges, carrots, basil, cilantro, and fennel). Good Boy beers are available online and at dog friendly restaurants, bars, pet stores, liquor stores, and grocery stores across the U.S. and Canada.
Bowser Beer for Dogs is a family-owned business that uses human-grade USDA meat to create flavorful no-alcohol brews. The beer’s 12-ounce bottles carry three flavors (beef, pork, and chicken) and contain, in addition to the meat on the label, malt extract, glucosamine HCL, and several preservatives. For special occasions you can order dog beer with labels featuring your dog’s photo. Custom orders support canine charities.
Dawg Grog Beer for Dogs was created in 2012 by craft brewer Daniel Keeton in Bend, Oregon. Dawg Grog is made from Oregon mountain water, brewers wort (malted barley water) from a local brewery, vegetarian glucosamine, and a trace mineral supplement. The vegetarian brew, bottled in half-pint (8-ounce) bottles, can be served over wet or dry food, offered by itself, or frozen into cubes as a hot-weather treat.
Beer Paws Craft Beer for Dogs contains beef, malt extract, beef liver powder, and turmeric to help promote canine joint health. Available in 12-ounce single cans and six-packs, Beer Paws may appeal to older and finicky dogs because of its intense flavor.
Make your own “dog beer”
Try making your own dog beer, which your pup will be happy to sample.
Purchase unsalted chicken or beef broth to use as a base, being sure the broth is free from onions or other ingredients not recommended for dogs, or follow this simple bone broth recipe:
Start with 3 to 4 pounds of raw or leftover bones with meat and connective tissue attached. In a large pot, slow cooker, or Instant Pot, add enough filtered water to cover the bones by 2 inches. Add 1 tablespoon cider vinegar or lemon juice. If desired, add 4 cups chopped carrots, celery, pumpkin, green beans, or other dog-friendly vegetables. Let stand for 30 minutes before cooking to enhance the release of minerals.
Stovetop:Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a bare simmer, cover with the lid slightly ajar, and cook for 24 hours (poultry bones) or 48 hours (beef or red meat bones).
Slow cooker or crock pot:On low heat setting, cook for 24 hours (poultry) or 48 hours (beef, red meat).
Oven: Bring ingredients to a boil on the stove, then transfer to a large oven-safe ceramic or metal pot with lid and bake, covered, at 150ºF for 15 to 24 hours
Instant Pot: Close lid and set to cook on low pressure for 4 hours (poultry) or 5 hours (beef or red meat). Let the pressure release naturally.
Strain broth through a mesh sieve or cheesecloth and transfer to jars for storage. Discard the layer of fat that collects at the top.
Turn your broth into “dog beer”
To 1 quart (4 cups) broth add 2 tablespoons brewer’s yeast or nutritional yeast, which will give the broth a beer-like flavor. Yeast, which is rich in B vitamins, is recommended for canine skin, hair, and digestion. Turmeric is an optional ingredient with anti-inflammatory properties; add 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric if desired. Simmer the broth mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, then cool to room temperature.
Both broth and pretend beer will keep for a week in the refrigerator or up to 3 months in the freezer. The recommended amount to feed dogs is 1 fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) per 10 pounds of body weight once or twice daily.
Serve it with style
It’s fun to share special occasions with best friends, including the dogs in your life. Pour the pretend beer over your dog’s dinner or over ice in a bowl, or simply serve it in a mug and enjoy the celebration. Bone broth and dog beers are tasty add-ons, not meal replacements.
A lethargic dog just doesn’t want to get up and move, sometimes even not trying to get to his food. Mike Linnane | Getty Images
Lethargy in dogs is more than being sleepy after a long hike. That’s being tired. A lethargic dog is sluggish, sometimes not even wanting to get up to eat. A lethargic dog usually doesn’t feel well.
Lethargy in dogs may be a passing thing, like he just doesn’t feel well on that day for some minor reason, or it could be sign of underlying health problems.
Causes for Lethargy in Dogs
Causes for lethargy are many. It might be as simple as a hot, humid day that makes your Malamute want to lay around an AC vent or blowing fan and dream of snow drifts. This dog isn’t really sick, but he understandably isn’t feeling energetic either. More concerning is when your young dog is lethargic without an environmental reason.
Fever: A common cause of lethargy is a fever. Just like you when you have a fever, your dog is exhausted, grumpy, and just wants to be left alone. Take your dog’s body temperature. It’s pretty easy with modern digital devices. Normal body temperature for dogs is 101 to 102.5°F (38.3 to 39.2°C). Know your dog’s normal by taking his temperature periodically when he feels well. Some dogs naturally run a tad under or over.
Pain: Another common cause is pain. A dog in pain does not want to get up and go play fetch, although fanatic retrievers sometimes do so even in great pain. It is your responsibility as an owner to recognize pain and not push your dog. Pain could come from an injured leg or a crampy stomach. Do a gentle physical exam and note any signs of pain, which might be a subtle catch in his breath when you touch the area.
Illness: Lethargy can also reflect various illnesses. Anything that causes anemia may slow your dog down. Cardiac or respiratory problems also mean less oxygen to the tissues so less energy. A tickborne disease could be the culprit. Even scented candles can cause lethargy. Metabolic problems like liver or kidney disease can simply make a dog feel lethargic, ill, and not like playing.
What You Can Do
If your normally energetic pooch is lethargic for one day and has no other clinical signs, it may be OK to just observe him. Two days of lethargy, however, should be a cause for a veterinary visit even if you don’t notice anything else off. Remember, dogs are good at hiding physical problems.
This dog’s left eye (right side in photo) developed a mature cataract inside the span of a couple of hours; that’s how fast a lens can crystallize. Photo courtesy of Dr. Eileen Fatcheric
A cataract is any opacification of the normally clear lens of the eye. The lens sits just behind the iris and is viewable through the pupil. Cataracts can develop in both old dogs (this is called senile cataracts) and young dogs (juvenile cataracts, congenital cataracts). They can develop in one eye, or both. They may develop slowly, or happen all of a sudden. Sometimes they are obvious and sometimes they are difficult to see, even for your veterinarian.
Symptoms of Cataracts in Progressively Developing Stages
Cataracts are identified by their level of development:
Stage 1 – Incipient cataracts
These are the smallest, earliest cataracts and are difficult to impossible to see with the naked eye – and sometimes even hard for your veterinarian to identify without special equipment. Incipient cataracts affect less than 15% of the lens. Sometimes the only sign of incipient cataracts is that the dog can’t seem to catch treats or balls thrown to him like he used to.
Stage 2 – Immature cataracts
These are easier to see but difficult to differentiate from lenticular or nuclear sclerosis, a normal aging cloudiness of the lens that will never result in complete blindness like cataracts do. Immature cataracts look hazy, grayish-blue. They may involve only a small portion of the lens or the entire lens. They are opaque (in contrast to nuclear sclerosis, which is merely translucent), but the density of the opacity is low enough to allow some light to get through to the retina. These dogs will likely be able to see well enough to navigate around the house without trouble, but they will not see well enough to catch treats or balls, nor to see your facial expressions, small hand movements, etc.
Stage 3 – Mature cataracts
These are impossible to miss. Mature cataracts in dogs involve the entire lens and are densely opaque, looking like a white crystal filling the entire pupil. If only one eye is affected, the dog will still be happily visual. Mature cataracts in both eyes make the dog completely blind. No light can get through these extremely dense, opacified lenses.
Stage 4 – Hypermature cataracts
This is the final stage, and the worst, as it is most likely to cause painful secondary issues within the eye. Not all cataracts will progress to the hypermature stage. The ones that do begin to shrink as they degenerate, resulting in a change in the size and/or shape of the cataract. They may leak proteinaceous fluid as the lens liquefies. The fluid released often results in severe, painful inflammation within the eye called lens-induced uveitis, which can then lead to glaucoma.
Signs of lens-induced uveitis include:
Painful eye
Red eye
Engorged blood vessels on the white of the eye
Corneal edema (bluish haze of the normally clear cornea)
Blood or pus-like material within the eye (between the cornea and the iris)
Swelling, mottling or change in color of the iris
Contracted pupil
What hypermature cataracts look like varies tremendously. They may look simply like smaller mature cataracts (the dog may even regain some vision around the edges as the cataract shrinks), the crystalline appearance may sink to only the bottom half of the lens capsule, or you may see almost like a wrinkled appearance to the cataract.
Causes of canine cataracts
The lens of the eye is made up of protein and water. Because it’s protein, the lens can be damaged, similar to any other tissue made of protein in the body, such as muscle tissue. This means that trauma to the eye (penetrating or blunt force) and/or chronic inflammation in the eye can result in cataract formation.
Cataracts can be inherited, with a genetic predisposition in certain breeds, including the Staffordshire Terrier, Boston Terrier, Australian Shepherd, and French Bulldog. Affected dogs should not be used for breeding. Genetic testing is available through the Veterinary Genetics Laboratory at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine.
A nutritional cause for cataracts has been identified in orphan puppies who were fed milk replacer.
Diabetes, though, may be the most common cause of cataracts in dogs. The excess sugar in diabetic dogs’ bloodstream is converted to sorbitol in the lens. The sorbitol draws water into the lens, which causes the lens to swell. This creates oxidative stress and disrupts the fibers in the lens, resulting in cataract formation. About 75-80% of dogs with diabetes will develop cataracts within the first year of their diagnosis, regardless of how well controlled their diabetes is. Diabetic cataracts tend to form quickly and frequently cause secondary issues, including lens-induced uveitis and glaucoma (increased intraocular pressure). Glaucoma in diabetic dogs is notoriously difficult to manage and often ends with surgical removal of the painful, blind eye (enucleation). Your best bet for a diabetic dog with cataracts is surgical correction as soon as possible.
Surgical Treatment for Cataracts in Dogs
There are many causes of hazy, gray/blue-appearing eyes in dogs, and not all of them are cataracts. This little dog’s left eye (right side of photo) has corneal edema and scarring after a slow-healing corneal ulcer. His right eye (left side of photo) shows nuclear sclerosis. Photo courtesy of Dr. Eileen Fatcheric
If your dog is diagnosed with cataracts, the best treatment – the gold standard of care – is having cataract surgery as soon as possible. The best outcomes with the fewest complications are achieved when surgery is performed before the cataracts become mature. Time is of the essence: If too much time passes before cataracts are diagnosed and treated with surgery, some cataracts will develop characteristics that preclude surgery from being performed at all.
As long as the dog’s retina and the rest of the eye is healthy, and the dog’s general health is good enough to withstand anesthesia, surgery is warranted.
Prior to surgery an electroretinogram will be performed to ensure that the dog has healthy retinas and will indeed be able to see after surgery. The surgery, which is performed by a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist, is called phacoemulsification. Small incisions are made in the cornea and the lens capsule. High-frequency vibration is used to essentially pulverize the lens, which is then removed by vacuum. An artificial lens is inserted into the eye and the cornea is sutured closed. Most dogs spend three to four days in the hospital receiving critical post-op treatments and careful monitoring. At home, the dog will require continued treatment with several eye drops administered four to six times a day for several weeks.
Follow-up exams with the ophthalmologist are important to check for and treat any post-operative complications that arise. The most common post-operative complications are prolonged intraocular inflammation and glaucoma. Again, the more mature the cataract before surgery is performed, the more likely post-operative complications are.
When Cataract Surgery Is Contraindicated
Are there reasons NOT to pursue cataract surgery? There sure are. These include:
General health of the dog. Is the dog a good candidate for general anesthesia? Not always. The risk of the general anesthesia required for the procedure may be too great, especially in older dogs with heart and/or kidney issues. Does the dog have a reasonable life expectancy after surgery? This depends on the dog’s age and other factors like cancer status.
Condition of the eyes. Are the corneas healthy? This is important for a good surgical outcome and also for vision. Are the retinas healthy? If not, the dog will still be blind, or will become blind, in spite of surgery.
Ability of the dog owner to commit. Post-operative care after cataract surgery is pretty intense, with topical medications required to be administered frequently around the clock. Sometimes lifestyles or work schedules can get in the way of this.
Temperament of the dog. Let’s face it. Some dogs are going to be impossible to medicate/manage with such an intense post-operative protocol, both in the hospital and at home afterward. This is unfortunately something that must be seriously considered.
Non-Surgical Care for Cataracts
What if your dog is not a good candidate for cataract surgery?
Your veterinarian can prescribe anti-inflammatory eye drops to help prevent cataract-associated inflammatory ocular disease. Additionally, it is recommended you have your dog’s eye pressures checked for glaucoma every four to six months.
All dogs benefit from being maintained at a healthy weight, but obesity is more consequential for dogs with cataracts, because obesity predisposes dogs to diabetes and diabetes causes cataracts. Keep your dog slim!
Owners should be alert to any sign that their dog is experiencing eye pain, such as squinting, sensitivity to light, rubbing at the eye, lethargy, and inappetence. Make an appointment with your veterinarian if these signs are observed.
Finally, if your dog becomes blind from her cataracts, do everything you can to make life as easy as possible for her. This article has many helpful tips, including a recommendation to read the book, Living With Blind Dogs: A Resource Book and Training Guide for the Owners of Blind and Low-Vision Dogs, by Caroline D. Levin.
Is it Cataracts or Some Other Cause of Cloudy Eyes?
This very geriatric dog’s cloudy lenses are due to nuclear sclerosis, a natural aging change in the lens that causes translucency, not opaqueness. As such, light can still pass through to the retina and the dog is not blind. Photo courtesy of Dr. Eileen Fatcheric
To tell the difference between cataracts and other causes of cloudy eyes in dogs, we must distinguish whether the cloudiness is deep inside the eye behind the pupil, or on the outer surface of the eye or cornea.
Ocular diseases that can cause cloudy corneas in dogs include:
Glaucoma (increased intraocular pressure)
Corneal dystrophy (abnormalities of layers in the cornea resulting in corneal opacities)
Corneal ulcer (scratch or abrasion disrupting the integrity of the cornea)
Uveitis (intraocular inflammation of the middle layers of the eye including the iris)
Keratitis (inflammation of the cornea)
Dry Eye Syndrome (also known as keratoconjunctivitis sicca or KCS, decreased tear production resulting in corneal irritation)
Corneal edema (fluid accumulation within the layers of the cornea)
Cloudiness behind the pupil localizes the lesion to the lens, making the cause either cataracts or nuclear sclerosis. Immature cataracts and nuclear sclerosis can be difficult to differentiate, as they both tend to look hazy and grayish-bluish in color. Your veterinarian may be able to distinguish between the two, or can refer you to a veterinary ophthalmologist for specialized assessment.
Home-improvement stores have become very popular dog-training and -socialization destinations, but they are not playgrounds! Prevent your dog from approaching others without their consent. Closely monitor your dog’s body language and interrupt any behaviors that might harm other shoppers or product displays. Photo by Brad Waggoner.
In many parts of the world, dogs are welcome everywhere; all stores are dog friendly! That isn’t the case in the United States, but a surprising number of American businesses open to the public are also open to the public’s pet dogs.
Retail stores can be terrific training areas for puppies and adult dogs, offering interesting distractions and friendly greetings in small, cozy shops or industrial warehouses.
Where can you bring your dog?
Most pet supply stores welcome well-behaved dogs. You can count on access for friendly dogs at the large chain pet supply stores, such as
Keep in mind that even if a chain describes itself as pet-friendly, decisions about canine visitors can vary by location, and store managers make final decisions about their stores’ pet policies. Also, some pet-friendly stores are located in shopping malls whose pet policies are different from those of its individual stores, so don’t assume that you and your dog will be welcome without verifying the situation first.
Depending on where you live, you may be surprised at the number and variety of stores, movie theaters, vineyards, art galleries, ballparks, craft and hobby shops, phone stores, and other establishments that welcome well-behaved dogs. Ask friends, dog trainers, and local pet supply stores for recommendations.
To find hotels, motels, and other overnight accommodations that welcome dogs, visit Bring Fido’s online directory BringFido: Pet Friendly Hotels & Dog Travel Directory , which includes dog-friendly restaurants, bars, cafes, coffee shops, and other establishments. If dogs are not allowed indoors at a restaurant, they may be accommodated in outdoor dining areas.
When shopping, keep your dog next to you on a short leash, rewarding him with treats or other rewards that he responds to. Photo by Caitlyn Zepeda.
Follow the rules
Does the store have a pet policy? If so, be sure to follow it. Follow unposted commonsense rules, too, such as:
Bring a healthy, clean, well-groomed dog.
Use appropriate equipment, such as a short, strong leash (no retractable leashes!) and an appropriate collar or harness.
Carry pick-up bags and cleaning wipes.
Bring one dog at a time. It’s impossible to manage two or three dogs in unpredictable situations, and that’s exactly what shopping visits can be.
Service dogs have privileges that pet dogs don’t, and it’s never OK to pretend that your dog is a service dog if that isn’t the case. The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) defines service dogs as dogs who are “individually trained to do work or perform tasks for an individual with a disability.” That definition does not include emotional support dogs, therapy dogs, or companion animals, so respect signs that say “Service animals only.”
Tips For a Smooth Visit With Your Dog
Taking our dogs into busy retail establishments shouldn’t be attempted casually or without preparation. Keeping your dog calm and comfortable and ensuring the comfort and safety of your fellow shoppers requires time, effort, and attention to detail. Employ these tips to ensure an uneventful visit:
Scout the location ahead of time. Is the site really appropriate for your dog? Visit the store for the first time without your dog to see whether the location is a good match to your dog’s personality and training. If it isn’t, look elsewhere.
Avoid peak shopping hours. Even a well-matched shopping environment can be challenging if it’s noisy, crowded, or overwhelming for your pup. For your dog’s initial visit, avoid grand openings, special sales, rowdy celebrations, or peak attendance hours.
Practice basic behaviors. Visiting dogs who know how to walk on a loose leash, sit, stay, and come when called are more likely to behave politely than dogs who don’t. Perfect your dog’s manners by practicing in unfamiliar environments until your dog is reliably polite in new settings and around strangers and other animals.
Know why you’re going. Do you plan to shop for something? Will you consult salespeople? If so, don’t bring your dog unless he or she can lie quietly while you transact business. If a store trip is a training opportunity, focus on the interactions you want to encourage or improve, and anticipate the steps you’ll need to take for best results.
Park where you can take your dog for a pre-shopping walk. Instead of going straight to the front door, take a stroll and give your dog time to explore, urinate, and defecate far from the entrance. Clean up after your dog and leave your pickup bag in a trash receptacle or in your car for later disposal.
Enter the store calmly. Focus your dog’s attention on you, so you can arrive quietly, without causing a disturbance.
Maintain control. Keep your dog next to you on a short leash, rewarding your dog with treats or other rewards that your dog responds to.
Respect other dogs and people. Retail stores are not puppy playgrounds. Prevent your dog from approaching others without their consent. Study your dog’s body language and interrupt any behaviors that might harm children, other pets, or product displays.
If using a cart to transport your dog in a store, provide him with a pad for comfort and safety (toes and toenails can get caught in the cart surfaces), and do not step away from the cart; a leap from that height onto a hard, slippery floor could cause a serious injury. Photo by Lesley Bowen.
Pay attention. Inattentive handlers create problems by not noticing while their dogs chew, lick, bite, or urinate on merchandise, make threatening eye contact with other dogs, or jump on people. “He’s just being friendly” is not an acceptable excuse. If you’re not able to pay attention to your dog when you visit a store, practice until responsible handling skills become second nature.
Minimize barking and other vocalizations. Polite visits are quiet, not noisy. Barking, growling, yipping, and other sound effects might be familiar and unthreatening to you, but they may annoy or frighten others. At their worst, noisy dogs are disruptive and can initiate physical confrontations.
Know where you can and can’t take your dog. Most stores do not allow dogs in food service areas because of health code regulations, and some areas may be off-limits for other reasons. Pay attention to signs that define “no pets” areas.
These newborn Tibetan Spaniel puppies won’t open their eyes for at least a week or two, maybe longer. Credit: Anita Kot | Getty Images
A big question with new puppy litters is when will new newborn puppies open their? Which is at about 10 to 14 days. That said, some precocious pups may have open eye slits as early as 7 days, while laggards may wait until almost 20 days. While the difference can be concerning, if there is no discharge and the eye does not appear puffy, the wide range in individual puppy eye opening is normal.
Puppy Eyes Open One Step at a Time
Puppies don’t go directly from tightly closed eyes to wide open. The eyes will first have a small slit, then gradually open to full size. You should not force the eyes open. Although uncommon, puppies can get infections in the closed eyes, which is why any abnormality should be immediately reported to your veterinarian.
Be aware that adult-dog eye color may not be discernible early on. While blue eyes are generally evident, the shades of brown aren’t clear until a few weeks down the line.
Vision vs. Open Eyes
Even when open, a pup’s eyes are not fully developed yet. Regular vision is usually complete by the age of 10 to 12 weeks. So don’t expect your 3-week-old pup to reliably track objects. That young puppy is still counting on his nose for most of his sensory input. Note: Most puppies leave mom the age of 8 weeks. Some stay even longer, like small breeds, up until 12 weeks.
Protect Puppy Eyes
It is also important to be careful about lighting, too. The puppy’s immature eyes should be protected from intense, bright lights. No bright lights where the puppies are and avoid taking any photos or videos with a flash.
If you notice any ocular discharge, especially anything purulent (like pus), your puppy should be seen by your veterinarian. If he starts to squint after having had his eyes fully open, get veterinary help.
Just like adult dogs, puppies can get corneal abrasions and irritations. Red and inflamed conjunctiva are another reason for a vet visit.
Dogs are persistently manipulated with verbal commands, equipment, and physical prompting to perform behaviors (such as pushing them into a sit) become reliant on their pet parents to do everything for them. This is equal to doing a child’s homework for him or her. A child might get better grades if an adult did his homework, but he or she would not learn the skills needed to function successfully in the world. This same concept is also true for your dog. If you have been doing his “homework” via constant reminding or demanding obedience, telling him, “No,” all the time, and/or using leash manipulations and physical prompts to keep him in line, he will not have learned the skills needed to function calmly in life.
Dogs, like children, must learn to problem-solve when life comes at them, and providing your dog a motivation to perform behaviors through rewards will help him learn those skills. In order for that to happen, however, he will need different, and well-practiced behaviors that will give him the answer to the question, “What do I do when (fill in the blank) ________?” If your dog’s current answer to that question is to spiral up and become wild, out of control, inattentive, or reactive, he has very few tools from which to choose.
When your dog has a limited number of tools, he will continue to use the ones that are the most readily available and familiar since those are the easiest to grab. If your dog’s behavior toolbox includes impulsive or reactive behaviors and little else, he has no choice but to use the tools that have served him best in the past.
For training to be effective, your dog needs to learn how to handle different situations without grabbing the old tools from his toolbox. Those old tools will always be there, but as you teach your dog that he will be rewarded for calm and relaxed behaviors, those old tools will be buried deep at the bottom of the toolbox under all the new ones, making access to them difficult and unlikely.
A Note on How Long to Train
As you train with your dog, it is important that you don’t overdo the amount of training. Science has shown that animals retain better when taught in short (five to fifteen minutes) spurts, rather than long, drawn out sessions. Dogs not only fill up on treats, they also get bored during long training sessions. If you over train, your dog will not be as excited about doing an exercise the next time. If you stop before he gets full or bored, leaving him wanting more, you will have a cooperative dog the next time you train him
If you find yourself overtraining because you are excited about your dog’s progress, simple count out 20-50 tiny treats and stop when they are gone. That will keep you on track with limiting the amount of time you train.
For more advice on training your dog, purchase Chill Out Fido! from Whole Dog Journal.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
