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Canine Influenza (Dog Flu)

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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0
A runny nose is one of the symptoms of canine influenza.
The green discharge from this puppy’s nose, and to a lesser extent, the clear discharge from her eyes, are signs of a severe case of canine influenza. While supportive home care will help most dogs recover from canine influenza, if she develops a high fever or has difficulty breathing, she needs to see a veterinarian as soon as possible. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Canine influenza is caused by viruses in the influenza A family. There are two viruses in this family that can cause canine influenza: H3N2 and H3N8. The H3N8 virus made a species jump from horses to dogs in the late 1990s or early 2000s. The H3N2 virus originated in birds and was first found to infect in dogs in 2005.

Neither strain of canine influenza has been found to infect humans. However, it is possible for dogs to transmit the H3N2 strain to cats. There have been no reports of cats transmitting the H3N2 strain to dogs or people.

Symptoms of canine influenza

The symptoms of canine influenza are similar to those of any other virus or bacteria that causes infectious tracheobronchitis (kennel cough). These symptoms include a dry, non-productive cough, low-grade fever, lethargy, lack of appetite, and clear discharge from the nose and sometimes the eyes. Coughing can persist for up to three weeks. In more severe cases, the cough may become moist and productive, the nasal secretions may be yellow or green, a high fever may develop, and difficulty breathing may be observed.

Canine flu vaccine

Most dogs who contract canine influenza have had contact with other infected dogs in an indoor environment, such as a kennel, dog show, or shelter. It is possible to contract canine influenza at an outdoor venue such as a dog park, but is less likely given the free circulation of fresh air in this type of environment. Photo by Nancy Kerns

There is a vaccine available for both the H3N2 and H3N8 strains of canine influenza. The initial dose is followed by a booster dose two to four weeks after the first vaccine is administered. The vaccine is boostered annually based on a dog’s risk of contracting canine influenza.

The canine influenza vaccine will minimize the risk of your dog contracting canine influenza. It is still possible for your dog to become sick with canine influenza even if your dog is vaccinated. But if your vaccinated dog contracts canine influenza, the vaccine will lessen the severity and duration of his illness.

Side effects of the canine influenza vaccine are similar to those seen with any other vaccine. There may be pain and swelling at the injection site. Your dog may feel a little off for 24 to 72 hours and may exhibit lethargy and disinterest in food. These signs typically resolve on their own in one to three days.

Other adverse effects are rare but may include facial swelling, hives, vomiting, or diarrhea. If you notice your dog exhibiting any of these signs, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Transmission of the canine influenza virus

Canine influenza is transmitted by coughing or sneezing, through contact with nasal secretions, and from contact with infected surfaces or clothing. The incubation period for canine influenza is one to five days. Most dogs show symptoms of canine influenza two to three days after exposure to the virus. This means that a dog could transmit canine influenza to other dogs before showing symptoms. The virus lives on surfaces and clothing for up to 24 to 48 hours and is easily inactivated by most household detergents and disinfectants.

Most dogs who contract canine influenza have had contact with other infected dogs in an indoor environment, such as a kennel, dog show, or shelter. It is possible to contract canine influenza at an outdoor venue such as a dog park, but is less likely given the free circulation of fresh air in this type of environment.

Unlike human influenza, canine influenza does not have a seasonal transmission. Dogs can contract canine influenza at any time of year. The disease has been reported in most states. There are persistent geographic hot spots and some areas where it is rarely seen, if at all. Areas where canine influenza has remained prevalent include New York City, Philadelphia, and areas of Colorado.

Diagnosing Dog Flu

Canine influenza can be diagnosed with either a PCR test or a blood test. The PCR test involves obtaining a swab sample from your dog’s nose or throat. The amount of virus shed in the nose and throat decreases with each day that your dog is sick with canine influenza, so it is possible to have canine influenza and test negative for it on this test.

The blood test looks for antibodies to canine influenza. If your dog has never been vaccinated for canine influenza and he has a high antibody level, then canine influenza is likely causing your dog’s symptoms. It is also possible to be negative on the antibody test for canine influenza and still have the disease. This is because some dogs take longer to produce antibodies when ill with canine influenza. If a second blood test two weeks later is positive for canine influenza antibodies, then that was likely the cause of your dog’s symptoms.

Caring for a dog with influenza

Most cases of canine influenza are mild and resolve on their own with supportive care at home. Supportive care may include enticing your dog to eat, making sure that fresh water is available at all times, rest, and keeping your dog away from other dogs until one week after his cough has resolved.

Complications from canine influenza

In rare circumstances, a dog with canine influenza may develop pneumonia. The canine influenza virus disrupts the lining of the respiratory tract and can allow bacteria to create a secondary infection, leading to the development of pneumonia. Dogs with pneumonia may need to be hospitalized and given intravenous fluids and antibiotics. Some dogs may also require supplemental oxygen to help them breathe. Dogs who do not require oxygen supplementation only need to be hospitalized until their fever breaks and they start eating. Dogs who require oxygen supplementation may need to be hospitalized for two or more days.

Death is rare with canine influenza, even in dogs who develop pneumonia. Dogs who die from canine influenza were typically seniors or have other underlying conditions that complicated their treatment.

Canine influenza can be prevented or minimized with vaccination. Talk to your veterinarian about your dog’s risk of contracting canine influenza and if he may benefit from receiving the canine influenza vaccine.

Appreciating Our Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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3
Boone now associates our older grandson with unpredictable adventures – and he’s there for it!
Boone now associates our older grandson with unpredictable adventures – and he’s there for it!

I was looking through my Google photo storage, trying to find a picture to go with an article about a veterinary topic for WDJ. I had to take Woody to an emergency veterinary clinic earlier this summer, to check for and remove a foxtail from his nose. I thought I’d use a photo of Woody from the clinic for the article, but I couldn’t remember the date of the incident offhand, so I was just scrolling backward in time through this summer’s photos.

As I scrolled, I found myself smiling over several photos. Many were pictures of my dogs interacting with other dogs or people or each other. My dogs are comfortable when socializing – and, as someone who once owned a dog-aggressive dog, I love that about them. I love knowing that I can take them almost anywhere and not worry that they are going to start something with anyone else’s dog. They are also extremely compatible with each other. I often hear complaints from friends whose dogs don’t get along and need to be kept separated sometimes (or all the time), and I count my lucky stars that my dogs don’t require this sort of management.

They don’t always share a bed, but they are happy to do so when the couches are full of humans.
They don’t always share a bed, but they are happy to do so when the couches are full of humans.

While Woody is my champion puppy-raiser, and can always be counted on to treat all puppies with patience and gentleness, no matter how pushy or needy those puppies are, I have to say I’m pretty impressed with Boone’s growing ability to tolerate puppy foolishness, too. When Boone was younger, he would mostly avoid any foster puppies that were around. His behavior and expression would resemble what you would expect of a teenaged boy when asked to look after a sticky, whiny toddler with a stinky diaper – “Ew! Gross! Get it away from me!” But as he has matured (he’s about a year and a half now), he will not only put up with the physical explorations of puppies upon his person, he now tries to engage them with toys and play. He’s not quite as careful as Woody, and sometimes he gets excited and his exuberance alarms pups, but he hasn’t hurt one with his roughhousing.

Woody is incredibly patient with puppies. Their explorations almost always seem to include a dental examination, which Woody never seems to mind.
Woody is incredibly patient with puppies. Their explorations almost always seem to include a dental examination, which Woody never seems to mind.

Their respective modes of playing with puppies is echoed in how they have coped with spending time with my grandsons, both the one who loves dogs and the one who doesn’t care that much about them. Woody is always glad to see the kids arrive, happy to jump on their beds to wake them in the morning, ride in the back seat with them, and accompany them wherever they go on our two-acre property. Boone isn’t quite as much of an ardent fan, but over the course of the summer, he grew more and more comfortable with the erratic movements of active boys and more anticipatory of the chaotic fun that might break out at any moment around them – enough so that he was effectively counter-conditioned to their presence. At the beginning of summer, he looked dismayed and apprehensive when a boy ran shouting through the house, wielded a stick like a sword, threw a football, or swung on the rope swing Boone had come to think of his own. But today, if a kid jumps up from the table for some spontaneous fun, Boone does, too – with a sparkle in his eye and a wagging tail. “Are we going to go outside? Do you want to play tag? Are we going to hunt for squirrels? Let’s do this!” he seems to say.

Our 7-year-old grandson loves dogs, and Woody adores him, too. He spent half of his vacation with us in physical contact with Woody.
Our 7-year-old grandson loves dogs, and Woody adores him, too. He spent half of his vacation with us in physical contact with Woody.

I frequently use my dogs as models. They are frequently asked to hold their positions in a solid “stay” or a patient “wait” while I take pictures of them. Sometimes it’s for an article for the magazine. Sometimes it’s because I think the photo I’m taking might be pretty enough or interesting enough for the next year’s WDJ calendar. Sometimes, they are just my muses, and I just enjoy seeing them through the lens of my camera or cell phone. I always “pay” them for their modeling work, so they are almost always willing to stand still for me as I change angles and f-stops, trying to get the light just right.

I took dozens of frames of this situation, trying to get the dogs posed just so, in order to get their legs to look right for my composition. They obviously don’t understand why I stop a hike to get so demanding, but they almost always cooperate.
I took dozens of frames of this situation, trying to get the dogs posed just so, in order to get their legs to look right for my composition. They obviously don’t understand why I stop a hike to get so demanding, but they almost always cooperate.

I don’t have a photo of this, but one of the things I appreciate most about my dogs is that they are comfortable staying in places without me. My husband and I did a lot of traveling this summer, spending long weekends at several out-of-town weddings and even longer and more numerous camping trips. Fortunately, my dogs love staying with my friend Leonora and her tiny dog Samson, and are equally comfortable staying at my sister Pam’s house, even though Pam’s three small dogs are possessive of Pam and of their voluminous array of toys. Dog-toy-envy aside, I don’t have to worry about my big dogs hurting any of their small friends or destroying anyone’s home. They are good houseguests! And thank goodness, or I wouldn’t be able to have as much fun or relax about their well being while traveling.

What do you especially appreciate about your dogs? Share what you love about them with the rest of us!

Tramadol for Dogs Side Effects

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Woman taking her dog for a walk on a forest path

While there is a limited study that refutes tramadol’s effectiveness for osteoarthritis, with severe cases, your veterinarian may still recommend it. Anecdotal evidence for its usefulness for severe pain is strong. Credit: AJ Watt | Getty Images

Tramadol is a popular medication for dogs with pain. It is used in dogs for osteoarthritic pain and in pre- and post-surgery as part of a pain-control regimen.

Tramadol is a synthetic opioid that is not FDA-approved for dogs, so it is used by veterinarians off-label. That means there have not been full studies on dosing, toxicity, and so on. Veterinarians prescribe it because there is a fair amount of anecdotal information regarding the use of tramadol in dogs available, and many studies are ongoing. The Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) classifies tramadol as a controlled substance.

Side Effects

Possible side effects appear conflicting, as you will see below, but this emphasizes how each dog is truly an individual and within a household, different dogs may have different experiences with this medication.

Key side effects for dogs taking tramadol include:

Neurologic symptoms

  • tremors
  • anxiety
  • dizziness

Gastrointestinal effects

  • vomiting
  • diarrhea
  • constipation

When to Avoid Tramadol

Tramadol is generally not recommended for use in dogs with liver, kidney, or seizure problems. It is metabolized via the liver, which is the reason for caution in liver patients.

Because tramadol can lead to increases in serotonin levels, it is important to avoid using it along with many antidepressants and drugs that are monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs). When these types of drugs are doubled up on, a dog may develop “serotonin syndrome” as a side effect. Symptoms can range from sedation to restlessness. Dogs may have muscle twitching, which can lead to hyperthermia. In severe cases, dogs can lose consciousness and even die.

Other drugs that can interact with tramadol include:

  • Warfarin (Coumadin)
  • SAMe (S-adenosyl-L-methionine
  • Cimetidine (Tagamet)
  • Digoxin (Digitalis)
  • Metoclopramide (Reglan)
  • Cyproheptadine (Periactin)

Always use tramadol under veterinary guidance. If your dog goes to a different clinic or an emergency clinic, make sure the veterinarian knows your dog is taking tramadol. Unlike many opioids, tramadol is not fully reversed by naloxone (Narcan).

What Is the DHPP Vaccine for Dogs?

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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1
Veterinarians and vet hospitals stock different vaccines and combination vaccines. Ask your veterinarian which combination is used by your vet’s hospital, and which vaccines are recommended for your dog.

Vaccines play an important role in keeping your dog healthy and protected from certain infectious diseases. But there are myriad vaccine choices and not every vaccine is necessary to maintain your dog’s health. Vaccines should be selected based on your dog’s risk and overall health status.

The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) has published guidelines for feline and canine vaccines. Canine vaccines are divided into two categories: “core” and “non-core” vaccines. Core vaccines are considered necessary for most dogs, either because the diseases for which they provide protection are highly infectious and can be deadly, or because of public health concerns. Non-core vaccines are also called lifestyle vaccines; these are recommended based on your dog’s risk of exposure to specific infectious organisms.

Core Vaccines for Dogs

Core vaccines are essential for all dogs unless your dog has a health condition that precludes vaccination. There are only four core vaccines for dogs. These include vaccines for canine distemper, canine adenovirus-2 (CAV-2), canine parvovirus, and rabies.

The vaccines for canine distemper, CAV-2, and parvovirus are often combined into a single inoculation known as the distemper-adenovirus-parvovirus (DAP) vaccine. This combination vaccine is sometimes also known as the DHP vaccine, where the “H” stands for canine viral hepatitis. Canine viral hepatitis is caused by canine adenovirus-1 (CAV-1). The CAV-2 vaccine provides protection against the respiratory infectious agent CAV-2 and cross protection against the hepatitis agent CAV-1.

The rabies vaccine is available only as a single antigen and is not combined with any other vaccine.

Non-Core Vaccines for Dogs

Non-core immunizations for dogs include vaccines for canine parainfluenza virus, Bordetella bronchiseptica, leptospirosis, Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme), canine influenza (both H3N8 and H3N2), and Crotalus atrox (Western diamondback rattlesnake toxoid).

The vaccine for canine parainfluenza virus is non considered a core vaccine, but it’s often incorporated into combination vaccines with core vaccines. It’s available as part of the distemper-adenovirus-parvovirus-parainfluenza (DAPP or DHPP) vaccine. But it’s also available combined with the non-core vaccine for Bordetella bronchiseptica. Parainfluenza and Bordetella bronchiseptica are two of the causes of kennel cough. The vaccine for B. bronchiseptica is available by itself as a single vaccine whereas the vaccine for parainfluenza is only available as part of a combination vaccine.

The vaccine for leptospirosis is available by itself as a single vaccine or in combination with either the Borrelia burgdorferi vaccine or the DAP/DAPP vaccines. DAP or DAPP vaccines that contain the leptospirosis vaccine are known as DALP (DHLP) or DALPP (DHLPP) vaccines.

The canine influenza vaccine is not combined with any other vaccine. The vaccine for Crotalus atrox is also only available as a single agent vaccine.

One or more non-core vaccines may also be essential for your dog based on his risk, lifestyle, or geographical location. Talk to your veterinarian about which vaccines are right for your dog.

You Can Walk Two Dogs at Once

By
Linda Aloi
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3
Dog walking
Walking more than one dog at a time requires training the dog to walk on leash, not pull, and ignore distractions. Credit: Ideeone | Getty Images

Of course, you can walk two dogs at once, or, as I do, sometimes three. If you can’t walk two of your own dogs at the same time, it’s a training problem and, usually, the problem is distractions—things the dog(s) want, causing them to get excited and out of control. That can be trouble with two dogs on leash together. You can only walk two dogs at once if they know each other and are both calm and trained to walk on leash.

Twenty years ago, I learned that the hard way—trying to manage my three Shelties in a frenzy due to a passing car! I learned what happens when your dog isn’t taught to ignore distractions when asked to do so. And now, I always include this lesson in my basic classes. Just imagine walking two dogs at once when one sees a squirrel . . . Let’s begin.

Basics

First, you don’t need any special equipment. Here’s all you need:

  • A well-fitted collar or harness
  • A leash no longer than six feet (absolutely no retractable leashes)
  • Treats (lots of good ones)

Pulling is sometimes part of the issue when walking two dogs, or with one dog for that matter. If you have a puller, work on that before walking two dogs at once.

Start With One Dog

In this short piece, we are going to focus on distraction training and assume your dog knows how to walk quietly on a leash and other basic cues like sit, wait, and a release cue. If not, you need to read “Polite Leash Walking.”

For help with teaching your dog to disengage from things he finds distracting, see “Teach Your Dog to ‘Leave It’ Without a Cue.” Teaching your dogs, individually, to handle distractions and return their attention to you is worth every minute you can put into it. Do all these same training steps with your other dog, too. Take your time.

Putting Them Together

When your dogs have met your walking criteria individually, such as sitting on cue  or returning their attention to you even when something tantalizing is nearby, take them for a walk together in a quiet area. Practice away from traffic, then gradually introduce triggers and distractions. They should both sit on cue and be rewarded. Make the intensity of the triggers gradually more difficult.

Not successful? Go back to square one. (Someone once said, “Don’t complain, train!” But no one ever said it was easy.)

I can often be seen in the neighborhood pushing a stroller with my elderly Sheltie inside, and a couple of Goldens or Shelties trotting alongside. Folks are amazed that I can do this with my dogs. I tell them, “No magic here … just training.”

Download The Full September 2023 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
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5
  • Care for Heat Stroke
  • Found a Stray Dog?
  • Boundary Training
  • Rope Toys are Dangerous
  • Worms and Deworming
  • Dental Extractions
  • Confidence-Building
  • Stuck in the Middle
  • Teach Your Dog to Heel
  • Best Dogs for Seniors
  • The Agony of Dog Feet
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Sand Flea Bites on Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
top view of a two-year-old girl and her chocolate Labrador retriever dog playing with the sand on the beach.
For the most part, your dog isn’t likely to be bothered by sand fleas, although digging in the sand could cause them to surface and bite. Credit: Rawlstock | Getty Images

After a fun day at the beach, you notice your dog is scratching and has small red spots that look like bites. It is possible, but unlikely, that sand fleas bites on the dog are the cause.

Sand fleas are small crustaceans, not insects like true fleas. They tend to come out on sandy beaches toward the evening, avoiding the hot sun. They vary in size from about a quarter of an inch to a full inch. However, unless you dig in the sand, you may not ever see them at a beach.

Sand Flea Bites at the Beach

Skin irritations like itchy bites or welts are more likely caused by biting sand flies or actual fleas, especially if your dog has explored vegetation near the beach where rabbits and other animals that might harbor fleas have been.

Sand fleas do jump like true fleas, but they prefer to eat seaweed, not blood. When they do bite a dog, they can cause a rash that appears to be many bites.

Treatment for Sand Flea Bites on Dogs

Treatment for irritation and bites from sand fleas is basic. Clean the area gently with water or a chlorhexidine solution. You can put an ice cube or ice pack on the red areas to reduce pain, itching, and inflammation.

Home remedies include aloe vera gel or a used tea bag held on the irritated skin. (Do not let your dog eat the tea!) Applying an apple cider vinegar and water solution (mix at 50-50) to wipe the area also may help with irritation and itching.

The biggest health concern with sand fleas is if your dog chews at his skin, destroying the natural protective barriers and leaving an opening for a secondary bacterial infection. Sand fleas also can cause tungiasis, a painful itchy condition where the flea bores into the dog’s paw pad (or human foot), but this is rarely seen in North America.

Keep your flea-and-tick repellent products up-to-date to help protect your dog.

How to Give Your Dog a Pill

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Man giving medicine to his old dog
Many dogs get clever and find new ways to resist taking medicine over time. Whether your dog needs to take pills for just a week or 10 days, or is on daily medication indefinitely, it helps to know several methods for administering the drugs. Photo by Chalabala/500px, Getty Images

Convincing a dog to swallow pills that smell suspicious, taste bitter, and feel unpleasant can be a challenge. Forcing a dog to swallow a pill can result in a bite or disrupt a human-canine relationship. What’s the best approach?

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  1. Hiding the medicine in food. Of course, you have to use the right food – and there are some tricks to hiding it convincingly.
  2. Use pill pockets. You can use the commercial products (such as these from Greenies), or you can make them from scratch yourself.
  3. Try a “pill gun” – a device that makes it easier to get the pill past your dog’s teeth and released into the very back of his mouth, where it will be more difficult to avoid swallowing it.
  4. Ask your veterinarian’s staff to demonstrate their technique, so you can give that a try.

Best Foods for Hiding Medications 

Some of the most effective pill-hiding foods are:

  • Soft cheese, goat cheese, or cream cheese
  • Raw or cooked ground beef or other meat
  • Hot dog pieces
  • Soft spreads like liverwurst
  • Nut butters
  • Pureed pumpkin
  • Mashed strongly flavored fish like sardines or mackerel

If using a prepared food, check its label to be sure it doesn’t contain ingredients that are toxic to dogs such as onions or xylitol.

How to Effectively Hide Pills in Food

  • Pack the cheese, meat, or other treat around the pill, but not while your dog is watching. Create a morsel large enough to surround the pill but small enough for your dog to swallow whole. Biting into a bitter-tasting pill can ruin your dog’s attachment to any treat, even a favorite.
  • Another strategy is to learn whether a pill can be crushed without harming its medicinal properties. If so, try crushing it in a plastic bag with a rolling pin or hammer, then mix the powdered bits into canned or pureed wet food.
  • Wash your hands after handling the medication. Dogs’ noses are so sensitive, your pup will recognize the medication’s fragrance if you don’t.

Tricks for Getting Your Dog to Eat the Hidden Medicines

  • Pretend to eat the medicated treat yourself. Everything you eat is of interest to your dog and he’ll want some, too.
  • If you have another dog, set up a rewards session and feed treats to both of them. Most dogs eat everything faster when there’s potential competition.
  • Give your dog five treats in quick succession with the treat that holds the pill somewhere in the middle. Your dog won’t have time to do anything but swallow the next treat.
  • If you use pill pockets, offer one from time to time that contains only a special treat with no pills. This will make pill pockets less suspicious.
  • Administer pills immediately before a fun activity like going for a walk, running in the yard, or playing an indoor game. Soon your dog will associate medication time with play time.

Try pill pockets

These hollow treats are designed to hold tablets or capsules. One popular brand is Greenies Pill Pockets, which come in four flavors (chicken, cheese, hickory smoke, and peanut butter).

For pockets with minimal ingredients, try making your own by mixing 1/4 cup water, milk, or bone broth with 1/4 cup peanut or almond butter (made without salt or sugar) and 1/2 cup wheat or gluten-free flour. Roll 1/2 teaspoon dough into balls and use the round tip of a wooden spoon or chopstick to form a pill-sized indentation in each ball. Refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 6 months.

Pill Poppers or Pill Guns

To give your dog a pill without food, try a pill popper or pill gun. Available from vet clinics and pet supply stores, this syringe-like tool drops a tablet or capsule through a tube into your dog’s mouth. See the Lxnoap Pet Pill Gun at Amazon and other suppliers. Load it with a pill, gently open your dog’s mouth, and drop the pill at the back of the throat. Follow with a small amount of water and massage your dog’s throat to encourage her swallowing reflex. Then check her mouth to be sure it’s gone as some dogs are clever about hiding pills and then spitting them out when no one’s looking.

When All Else Fails…

If your dog is still resisting, ask your veterinarian for help. Vet techs are pilling experts and can give you a detailed demonstration, or your vet may be able to supply the medication in a different form, such as liquid or flavored, that is easier to administer.

What Is Anal Gland Expression?

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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1
Funny dog enjoying scratching his bum on grass at public dog park
A dog scooting along the ground, rubbing his behind, is likely telling you he is uncomfortable and needs anal gland expression. Credit: Pete’s Photography | Getty Images

Anal gland expression is the act of manually emptying the anal glands for the dog. While this is a procedure best left to a veterinary professional, some groomers offer the service and some pet owners do learn how to safely express their dog’s anal glands themselves.

Anal glands or anal sacs are gumball- to grape-sized sacks on either side of the dog’s anus that contain stinky secretions. If the anus were a clockface, the anal glands would sit at about 4 and 8 o’clock. Most dogs empty their anal glands a little bit naturally every time they have a bowel movement. The passing feces puts pressure on the glands and squeezes some of the secretions out. This keeps the glands at a comfortable size for the dog.

Uncomfortable Anal Glands

When a dog’s anal glands are too full, they are uncomfortable. Some dogs will drag themselves along on their bottoms or “scoot” to try to relieve the pressure. Others lick the area for the same reason. Sometimes owners notice the smell periodically as some of the stinky stuff leaks out from the overly full gland. Any dog showing these signs will feel better once their anal glands are expressed.

Reasons for a dog to be unable to successfully release secretions with bowel movements include:

  • Improper positioning of the gland and its opening duct (especially in overweight dogs)
  • Thick secretions
  • Soft bowel movements
  • Allergies (most often food allergy)

Manual Anal Gland Expression

Sometimes expressing the anal glands requires insertion of a gloved finger into the dog’s rectum, especially if the bulge of the overly full glands cannot be seen or felt from the outside. With this technique, the gland is squeezed between the index finger inside the rectum and the thumb of the same hand outside the anus. The process is then repeated for the gland on the other side.

If the bulge of the anal glands can be seen or felt from the outside, they can sometimes be expressed by applying pressure to the outside of one gland with your index finger, simultaneously applying pressure to the outside of the other gland with your thumb on the same hand. With this technique both glands are expressed simultaneously.

Anal glands should only be expressed when the dog shows signs of discomfort. Otherwise, allow the dog to naturally express the glands and decrease his dependence on manual anal gland expression. Adding fiber to the dog’s diet in the form of pumpkin or psyllium powder sometimes helps dogs achieve natural anal gland expression by bulking up passing bowel movements.

Comparing Results from Mixed-Breed DNA Tests

By
Nancy Kerns
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2
Perhaps the most interesting thing about Boone’s DNA test results is the fact that he doesn’t look anything like any of the breeds detected by any of the companies. Most people think he’s some sort of Doodle!
Perhaps the most interesting thing about Boone’s DNA test results is the fact that he doesn’t look anything like any of the breeds detected by any of the companies. Most people think he’s some sort of Doodle!

I recently received the results of my dog Boone’s mixed-breed DNA test from Darwin’s Ark, a nonprofit scientific research organization (which I previously wrote about here). I already had results from Wisdom Panel and Embark. Here’s what all three have reported finding in Boone’s DNA:

Embark Wisdom Panel Darwin’s Ark
42.0% American Pit Bull Terrier 36% American Staffordshire Terrier 59.4% American Pit Bull Terrier
29.1% American Staffordshire Terrier 29% American Pit Bull Terrier 21.1% Unknown
8.1% American Bulldog 6% Boxer 6.6% English Springer Spaniel
8.1% German Wirehaired Pointer 6% German Wirehaired Pointer 4.7% Boxer
8% Boxer 5% American Bulldog 3.1% Great Dane
4.7% English Springer Spaniel 5% English Springer Spaniel 3% German Shorthaired Pointer
  4% Great Dane 2.1% Labrador
  3% Australian Cattle Dog  
  2% German Shorthaired Pointer  
  2% Labrador  
  2% Chow Chow  

 

I know it’s my dog, but I find these results fascinating, both for the similarities and for the differences in what they found and their estimated quantities of each breed. Not to even mention the fact that Boone doesn’t particularly look like any of the breeds suggested by any of the companies.

All three companies concur that Boone is mostly one or the other or both of the most common bully breeds. Embark and Darwin’s Ark agree that he’s more American Pit Bull Terrier than anything; Wisdom Panel thinks that he’s more American Staffordshire Terrier than anything. Embark and Wisdom Panel agree that he’s got both Pit Bull and Am Staff heritage, whereas Darwin’s Ark makes no mention of Am Staff at all – but the company does not include American Staffordshire Terrier among the list of breeds it can currently identify.

Embark and Wisdom Panel both think Boone has some American Bulldog genes. Darwin’s Ark did not report this – but, again, it doesn’t yet have American Bulldogs on the list of breeds it says it can identify. Also, unlike the other two companies, Darwin’s does not attempt to make its results add up to 100%; it reported a 21.1% “unknown” genetic contribution to Boone. So Am Staff and American Bulldog may well make up a goodly percentage of Darwin’s Ark’s 21.1% of “unknown” genes.

All three companies identified contributions from Boxers and English Springer Spaniels, and even their calculations regarding the concentration of those breeds matched fairly closely. The estimated contribution of Boxer genetics ranged from 4.7% to 8%. The estimated contributed from Springer Spaniels ranged from 4.7% to 6.6%.

All three companies identified at least one German pointer. Wisdom Panel suggested that Boone contains small amounts of both German Wirehaired Pointer and German Shorthaired Pointer. Embark reported only German Wirehaired Pointer. Darwin’s Ark reported only German Shorthaired Pointer.

Two of the three (Wisdom Panel and Darwin’s Ark) found some Great Dane genes (4% to 3.1%, respectively) and some Labrador genes (2% and 2.1%, respectively). Neither breed was identified by Embark.

Using just Boone’s results to draw conclusions about the three companies, it feels like they are all finding comparable results. Embark sells its Breed ID DNA Test for $109 to $129, depending on its various discounts. Wisdom Panel currently sells its Breed Discovery kit for $84 – the lowest price of all three companies, unless you submit your dog’s DNA to Darwin’s Ark for research purposes only, in which case the company will run your dog’s sample for free, but you may not receive the results for years. Darwin’s Ark uses these samples in its research; it has a number of scientists using the data it collects for some fascinating studies on obsessive-compulsive disorder, cancer, food allergies, the traits shared by working dogs, and more.

If you want to pay for faster (but not fast) service, Darwin’s Ark charges $149. The company will run your dog’s DNA in a batch of 20 when they receive 19 other samples to run. This took about four months for Boone’s sample. The for-profit companies are much quicker with their results – just understand that they, too, are likely including your dog’s DNA in their research studies, but without the transparency and invitation for you to participate in “citizen science” surveys about health and behavior offered by Darwin’s Ark.

How to Teach a Dog to Shake (Paw)

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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0
It’s usually very easy to teach “Shake” to dogs like Boone, who are naturally “pawsy.” In this case, the photographer worked as a team with her grandson, Oliver. He gave the physical cues (holding out his hand) and she used a verbal marker (“Yes!”) when Boone lifted his foot. This prompted Oliver to deliver the treat to Boone. Photos by Nancy Kerns.

Several training techniques can be used to teach a dog to “Shake hands.” Here are four methods for teaching this amusing trick – capturing, shaping, lure-shaping, and prompting. Different dogs may respond better to one method than another; you should use whichever training method works best for your dog. We will describe which method tends to work best with dogs with different behavioral tendencies. Here’s how to use each of these training techniques to teach your dog to “give a paw” on cue:

“Capture” the Paw Lift

Some dogs are naturally “pawsy,” often using their feet to touch you or objects they are playing with. These are the easiest to teach to shake.If this describes your dog, try this method:

  1. Just hang out with your dog (it’s best if she’s sitting) and wait for her to lift a paw.
  2. When she does, “mark” this behavior with the click of a clicker (or other reward marker, such as a “thumbs-up” hand signal or a verbal marker such as “Yes!”) and give her a treat.
  3. Repeat by marking any lifts of that same paw (chose left or right – but not both!) until your dog realizes she’s getting reinforced for the paw lift, and then add your “Shake” cue just before she lifts her paw. With enough repetitions she’ll offer her paw even every time you cue her to “Shake.”
  4. Now start offering your hand so she can rest her paw on it for your final shake behavior.

At first, the team “captured” Boone’s behavior of shifting his weight, by using the verbal marker (“Yes!”) and giving him a treat when one of his front paws moved. Then, they raised the criteria, waiting for him to lift a paw off the ground before marking and giving him a treat. Because he’s been trained with these methods before, Boone knew to keep offering various behaviors as he worked to find what would result in a Yes! and treat. Within just a few tries, Boone waved his paw in the air. Yes! and Jackpot!

“Shape” the Shake

Shaping shake works well for dogs who move their feet often while otherwise sitting still, but don’t raise a paw high enough to shake. If this describes your dog, try this method:

  1. Start by having your dog sitting in front of you. The instant you see a tiny movement with either foot, mark the behavior and feed her a treat.
  2. Now focus on that paw only (if you randomly mark the movement of either paw you may get a shuffle instead of a shake!) and continue to mark and treat for any paw movement.
  3. As your dog starts to move that foot on purpose in anticipation of reinforcement, very gradually raise the criteria you require in order to mark and treat. For example, only mark-treat if the paw moves at least one inch off the floor. When that happens consistently, raise the criteria to two inches. Continue raising the criteria slowly, add your cue, and you’re off and shaking!

Then the team raised criteria again: They waited for Boone to touch Oliver’s hand with his paw, or, in this case, his paw and wrist. No worries! It’s a closer approximation of the desired behavior, so he gets a “Yes!” and treat. Then they raise criteria again, waiting for him to more precisely put his paw in Oliver’s hand.

“Lure-Shape” the Shake

If your dog sits perfectly still with no paw movement at all, try this method, lure-shaping the paw lift.

  1. Hold a treat at the end of her nose and slowly lift it until her nose is pointed almost straight up. Now move the treat slowly to one side so she shifts her weight onto one foot and the other paw lifts slightly. Mark and treat.
  2. Repeat until the paw lift gets easier and she starts to offer paw movement without the lure, then continue as described in the shaping section, luring if needed while you raise criteria. Fade your lure as quickly as possible so that you can get your “Shake” on verbal cue.

When shaping, the dog will try a few behaviors, in an effort to discover which behavior gets the treat. It’s important to not mark and treat efforts that take him farther from the behavior you want. In this case, Boone tried putting both his paw and his nose on Oliver’s hand. The team didn’t say “No” or discourage him; they just waited for a closer approximation of what they were after.

“Prompting” the Paw

If the above-mentioned methods fail, you can prompt your dog to move her paw. We would rarely start teaching a behavior using a physical prompt, as dogs tend to learn best when their freely offered behaviors are marked and rewarded, rather than when they are pressured by a physical touch. However, some dogs are reluctant to offer behaviors (perhaps from being physically punished or intimidated for offering behaviors in the past);  these dogs may benefit from a very gentle prompt.

  1. Start by by lightly tickling or pressing gently on your dog’s pastern (the back of her ankle).
  2. Mark and treat the moment her paw moves! Good girl!
  3. Repeat until she starts to offer paw movement as you reach toward her paw – and if she does, don’t follow through with the prompt, but mark and treat for the movement. Then switch to shaping or lure-shaping as described above to get to your final paw-shaking goal.

Boone learned to touch the bellman’s bell within a minute of learning “shake” and high-five.

Paw Targeting

When your dog has learned that moving her paw earns treats, she can teach learn how to do other things with her feet. Teach her to touch her paw to a designated object to ring a bell, turn on a light, push a rolling toy – and these fun behaviors are just the beginning. Have more fun with your dog’s paws!

Once you’ve taught your dog to touch something with his foot, it’s easy to teach more behaviors, such as giving a high-five or simply waving his paw in the air.

Is Bone Broth Good for Dogs?

By
CJ Puotinen
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6
Woman, with a small dog in her arms cooking at stove while watching recipe on laptop.
It’s easy to make your own healthful bone broth for your dog. While the traditional method uses the stove top, Instant Pots reduce the time needed to prepare bone broth to a fraction of the stove-top time. Photo by Lorenzo Capunata, Getty Images

Bone broth is a simple soup stock made by cooking bones from beef, pork, lamb, goat, bison, poultry, fish, or other meats in water. Traditionally a convalescent food for humans recovering from illness, it has become a popular treat for dogs. Bone broth is promoted for the improvement of:

  • Digestion and nutrient assimilation
  • Skin, coat, and nail health
  • Immune function
  • Joint mobility
  • Detoxification support

Bone broth is rich in gelatin, a protein-rich substance that, when heated and cooled, forms a gel-like texture (think Jello). Gelatin added to other foods aids digestion and provides minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. Because it contains some but not all of the essential amino acids, gelatin is nutritionally incomplete and should not be used as a stand-alone meal substitute.

How much bone broth to feed

The recommended daily amount for dogs is 1 fluid ounce per 10 pounds of body weight, such as 6 fluid ounces (3/4 cup) for a 60-pound dog. Start with smaller amounts to be sure your dog tolerates it well and increase gradually.

Several bone broth products, including dehydrated powders, are sold as canine nutritional supplements or meal toppers. Some are made from the bones of pasture-raised or grass-fed animals, which are considered more nutritious than factory farmed animal bones. Examples include Open Farm Bone Broth for Dogs and Caru Bone Broths for Dogs and Cats. Products made from human-grade ingredients include Honest Kitchen Bone Broth and Solid Gold Bone Broths.

Made-for-dogs bone broths are a safer choice than broths sold for human consumption because they are less salty and don’t contain onions or other ingredients that can be toxic to dogs.

What’s the difference between “stock” and bone broth?
The term “bone broth” is often used interchangeably with “stock” and plain “broth,” but there are differences. Bone broth is made by simmering bones for extended periods so the result is rich in nutrients, gelatin, and collagen and often consumed for health benefits. Stock is prepared by simmering bones with vegetables and aromatics for a shorter period to produce a flavorful base for sauces, soups, and stews. Plain broth is made by simmering meat and vegetables in water for a short time for use as a light flavor base.

Bone broth recipe

Start with 3 to 4 pounds of raw or leftover bones with meat and connective tissue attached. In a large pot, slow cooker, or Instant Pot add enough filtered water to cover the bones by 2 inches. Add 1 tablespoon cider vinegar or lemon juice. If desired, add 4 cups chopped carrots, celery, pumpkin, green beans, or other dog-friendly vegetables. Let stand for 30 minutes before cooking to enhance the release of minerals.

  • Stovetop: Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a bare simmer, cover with the lid slightly ajar, and cook for 24 hours (poultry bones) or 48 hours (beef or red meat bones).
  • Slow cooker or crock pot: On low heat setting, cook for 24 hours (poultry) or 48 hours (beef, red meat).
  • Oven: Bring ingredients to a boil on the stove, then transfer to a large oven-safe ceramic or metal pot with lid and bake, covered, at 150ºF for 15 to 24 hours
  • Instant Pot: Close lid and set to cook on low pressure for 4 hours (poultry) or 5 hours (beef or red meat). Let pressure release naturally.

Strain broth through a fine mesh sieve or muslin fabric and transfer to jars for storage. Discard the layer of fat that collects at the top. Refrigerate for up to 7 days, freeze for up to 3 months.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
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