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How to Deworm a Dog

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A thin black Shepherd/Retriever mixed breed dog standing outdoors
Not all dogs who are infested with intestinal worms are thin. Dogs with a minor worm burden may show no symptoms at al; however, the more worms they are hosting, the more weight and body condition they will lose. Photo by Mary Swift, Getty Images

Roundworms, whipworms, hookworms, and tapeworms are the most common intestinal parasites that afflict dogs. To eliminate these worms, there are currently six drugs available for use in dogs in the United States, and a myriad of choices of products that offer these drugs alone and in varying combinations.

The best dewormer for your dog is one that addresses your dog’s individual risk for contracting intestinal parasites, that is convenient to administer, and that addresses any breed-specific risks (see “The MDR1 Mutation and Milbemycin and Moxidectin,” below). The only dewormers that are not routinely recommended are ones that contain piperazine. Dewormers that contain piperazine have limited effectiveness against roundworms and do not address any other intestinal parasites. Your veterinarian can help you determine which dewormer is best for your dog’s lifestyle and risk factors for contracting intestinal parasites, but here is information about each drug that will help inform your decision:

DrugAvailable formsEffective AgainstNOT Effective AgainstAdministration FrequencySafe to UseDo Not Give To
Milbemycin (pronounced mil-beh-MY-sin)Oral tablet or chewableHookworm roundworm, whipworm (also heartworm)TapewormOnce a monthAdult dogs, puppies as young as 4 weeks old and at least 2 lbs Pregnant or nursing dogs
Fenbendazole (pronounced fen-BEN-da-zole) Note: A drug called febantel is available only in the dewormer Drontal Plus for Dogs. Febantel is metabolized in a dog's body to fenbendazole and has the same spectrum of activity as fenbendazole.)Oral medication (as either granules to be mixed with food or as a liquid given by oral syringe)Hookworm, roundworm, whipworm, and some forms of tapewormDipylidium caninum (the most common tapeworm, which is transmitted by fleas)Once a day for three to five consecutive daysAdult dogs, puppies as young as 6 weeks old, pregnant dogs
Praziquantel (pronounced pra-zi-KWON-tell)Oral medication, either by itself or combined with other dewormer drugs that combat hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm; it also available in some once-a-month heartworm preventativesSeveral species of tapeworm, including the most common tapeworm that is transmitted by fleasUsually, just one dose. A second dose may be necessary if a dog is at risk of becoming reinfected by fleas. Reinfection with this species of tapeworm can be prevented by using a high quality flea preventative and treating the home environment for fleas.Adult dogs, puppies as young as 4 weeks old, and pregnant and nursing dogs
Pyrantel (pronounced pie-RAN-tell)Oral tablet or liquidAdult hookworms and adult roundworms residing in a dog's small intestineTapeworm, whipworm, or larval stages of hookworm or roundwormThree doses needed, given two weeks apart (this dosing regime is designed to kill all the adult worms; it takes about two to four weeks for the larval stages of hookworms androundworms to develop into adults)Adult dogs, puppies as young as 2 weeks old, and pregnant and nursing dogs
Moxidectin (pronounced mox-ee-DEK-tin)Topical

Oral tablet (Simparica Trio, which also contains two other drugs):

Injectable (ProHeart 6 and ProHeart 12)
Hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm (also heartworm)

Hookworm, roundworm (also heartworm)

Hookworm (also heartworm)
Once a month

Once a month

ProHeart 6 is given every six months; ProHeart 12 is given every 12 months
Adult dogs, puppies at least 7 weeks old and 3 lbs

Adult dogs, puppies at least 8 weeks of age and 2.8 lbs

Adult dogs, puppies more than 6 months old
Pregnant or nursing dogs

Pregnant or nursing dogs

Puppies less than 6 months old, dogs who are heartworm-positive.
Piperazine (pronounced pie-per-a-ZEEN)Oral tablet, liquid, paste, and gel (piperazine is paired with a variety of salts; each combination contains a different amount of piperazine. Follow label directions for the product you select regarding age, weight, and safe use in pregnant or nursing dogsLimited efficacy against adult roundworms residing in a dog’s small intestineLarval forms of roundworm, and hookworm, tapeworm, or whipwormGiven in three doses, two weeks apartDogs with chronic liver or kidney disease

How to deworm your dog

Greyhoud lure coursing
The hookworm Ancylostoma caninum has been developing resistance to all of the dewormers currently authorized for use in the United States; this was first observed in racing Greyhounds but has been confirmed much more widely. Photo by Himagine, Getty Images

The easiest way to deworm your dog is to use an effective heartworm preventative all year long. Heartworm preventatives do more than just prevent heartworm disease. They also treat your dog for intestinal parasites. Some heartworm preventatives also include an insect growth regulator for flea prevention. Others include a drug that quickly kills ticks that become attached to your dog.

Each heartworm preventative product – with its particular combination of drugs – has a different spectrum of activity against intestinal parasites. For example, some preventatives are effective against hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm but not tapeworm. Other preventatives are effective against only roundworm and hookworm while some preventatives are effective against roundworm, hookworm, whipworm, and tapeworm.

The Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC) recommends that puppies be treated with a dewormer effective against roundworm and hookworm at two, four, six, and eight weeks of age. Puppies should be started on a monthly heartworm preventative as soon as they are old enough and weigh enough to receive the preventative.

According to the CAPC, if a puppy receives his first dose of dewormer at 6 to 8 weeks old, then the following deworming schedule is recommended:

  • Administer a dose of dewormer. Use a dewormer that contains pyrantel, fenbendazole, or a combination of pyrantel and febantel.
  • In two weeks, administer your puppy’s first dose of heartworm preventative.
  • In four weeks, administer a second dose of dewormer.
  • In six weeks, administer the next dose of heartworm preventative. Continue heartworm prevention all year long.

If you do not want your puppy or dog to be on heartworm preventative, then you should deworm according to the following schedule recommended by CAPC:

  • Puppies should be dewormed every two weeks starting at 2 weeks of age until they are 2 months old.
  • Puppies between 2 and 6 months of age should be dewormed once a month.
  • Adult dogs and puppies more than 6 months of age should be dewormed once every three months.

Use a broad-spectrum dewormer that is effective against roundworm, hookworm, and whipworm. If your dog is not on a flea or flea/tick preventative, then select a dewormer that is also effective against the tapeworm Dipylidium caninum.

The MDR1 Mutation and Milbemycin and Moxidectin

Dogs who have an MDR1 gene mutation are more sensitive to the effects of milbemycin and moxidectin. MDR1 refers to a gene called “MultiDrug Resistance 1” and is also known as gene ABCB1. A mutation in this gene allows higher levels of certain medications – including milbemycin and moxidectin – to enter the brain from the bloodstream.

Certain breeds of dogs are more likely to have the MDR1 gene mutation. According to Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine, these breeds include Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs (Shelties), Australian Shepherds, Old English Sheepdogs, English Shepherds, German Shepherds, Longhaired Whippets (also known as Silken Windhounds or Windsprites), and a variety of mixed-breed dogs.

When used at the dosages present in heartworm preventatives, milbemycin and moxidectin do not cause an adverse reaction in dogs who have the MDR1 gene mutation. However, milbemycin and moxidectin should be used cautiously in dogs with the MDR1 gene mutation who are also receiving certain cardiac medications, certain antibiotics or antifungals, or cyclosporine.

Testing your dog to see if he has the MDR1 gene mutation is easy and can be done at home. You can order a cheek swab test from Washington State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine (click here) or by calling (509) 335-3745. Your veterinarian can also submit a blood sample to WSU to test for the MDR1 gene mutation.

Drug-Resistant Hookworms

Within the past decade, the hookworm Ancylostoma caninum has been developing resistance to all of the dewormers currently authorized for use in the United States, including pyrantel, fenbendazole, and moxidectin. This phenomenon was originally seen in retired racing Greyhounds but has since been seen in a variety of dog breeds.

It is thought that A. caninum started developing drug resistance through the inappropriate use of dewormers at Greyhound race tracks. Dewormers labeled for use in large animals can often be obtained without a prescription. This gave trainers an easy route to obtain dewormers that may not work the same in dogs as it does in large animals. There may also have been instances where an inappropriately low dose of a dewormer was given to the dogs, thus eliminating some hookworms but allowing hardy hookworms to survive and thrive.

Other factors that are thought to have contributed to the development of drug-resistant A. caninum include the mild, temperate climate of the Southeast where the majority of Greyhound race tracks were once located. The eggs and larvae of A. caninum are killed by freezing temperatures that are not often seen in the Southeast region. The sandy surface of Greyhound race tracks also provided a perfect growth medium for A. caninum larvae.

Dogs who are suspected to be infected with drug resistant hookworms can be treated with a combination of fenbendazole, pyrantel, and moxidectin. Your veterinarian will determine the dose and frequency of each dewormer administered. A fecal egg count reduction test should be performed before and after treatment to determine the effectiveness of the drug combination.

There is evidence that a medication called emodepside may be effective at eliminating drug-resistant hookworms. This medication is licensed for use in dogs in Europe but not yet in the United States. Emodepside is one of the medications in the topical dewormer Profender licensed for use in cats, but only the oral formulation of emodepside is effective in dogs. Hopefully, this medication will become licensed for use in dogs in the United States.

Parvovirus and Foster Puppies

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Kate, the first puppy to show symptoms, was already underweight when she first showed symptoms of parvo, so her weight loss looks rather shocking. Fortunately, she’s on the road to recovery. Photo by Lisa Pound, Durham Doggie Posse + Kittens!
Kate, the first puppy to show symptoms, was already underweight when she first showed symptoms of parvo, so her weight loss looks rather shocking. Fortunately, she’s on the road to recovery. Photo by Lisa Pound, Durham Doggie Posse + Kittens!

With just a couple of exceptions, every time I have fostered a dog or litter of puppies, I’ve done it for my local shelter. While sometimes I disagree with the shelter’s policies or am frustrated with the shelter’s limitations, if any of the dogs or puppies I am fostering for them has a medical issue, the shelter will treat the dog or pups at their expense – it doesn’t come down to my ability to pay an unexpected vet bill, and I’m grateful for that.

A friend in my area runs a small rescue organization, the Durham Doggie Posse +Kittens!, which she and one of her best friends operate out of their homes. Lisa and Melissa obtained a nonprofit charity status some years ago, and solicit for donations from their friends and people who follow them on social media – and frequently raise funds by doing things like baking and auctioning off cheesecakes and fruit pies, or jams made with fruit from their own fruit trees. (And I’m sure quite a bit of their own money goes into feeding and providing veterinary care for the dogs and puppies, cats and kittens they rescue and place.) They sometimes pull unclaimed animals from local shelters, but they also trap feral cats and get them spayed/neutered, and have also responded to pleas from local residents who found abandoned litters or injured animals.

Recently, they took on the job of fostering a litter of 11 puppies from a local shelter, with most of the puppies staying at Lisa’s home and a few fostered in friends’ homes. So far, all but four pups have been spayed/neutered and adopted into loving homes – but a few days ago, one of the puppies in the care of one of the foster providers stopped eating and drinking. Not wanting to burden her friend with caring for a sick pup, Lisa brought the pup back to her own home – and then took the pup to our local veterinary emergency room the next day. The pup had come down with parvovirus – and a day later, the second pup in the same home followed his sister’s symptom path.

This little organization cannot afford to pay for the gold standard of care for parvo – a couple days (at least) of hospitalization and IV fluids and medication – for one puppy, much less two. Lisa asked the veterinarian what she could do to care for the pup (now two pups) at home.

Fortunately, there is an alternative to the gold standard of care, which is hospitalization with fluids and other medicines administered via IV. (We published an article about this 10 years ago, here.) The College of Veterinary Medicine & Biosciences at Colorado State University’s Veterinary Teaching Hospital developed an outpatient treatment protocol a decade ago that has saved countless canine lives at a fraction of the cost of gold standard care. The protocol (available here) calls for the administration of subcutaneous fluids and doses of antibiotics and anti-emetic drugs, as well as anti-nausea and pain medication if needed. Once, it was common for veterinarians to suggest there wasn’t an outpatient alternative for puppies who were sick with parvovirus (it was hospitalization or euthanasia), but this protocol has shown an 80% to 90% success rate in pulling through these patients.

That doesn’t mean it’s cheap: Veterinary supervision, tests, the fluids and drugs – this all adds up. But it makes the cost of treating these shelter pups about $500 to $600 apiece, instead of $4,000 or more apiece.

And it’s not easy, or for the faint of heart! Providing all this care is a lot of work – especially since care must also be taken to keep the sick pups away from other animals in the household, and lots of cleaning and disinfecting goes into preventing the infection from spreading outside the care provider’s household. And administering sub-Q fluids – piercing the puppy’s skin with a fairly large-gauge needle – is scary at first. I’ve fostered only one puppy who needed the administration of sub-Q fluids several times a day, and I found it to be fairly nerve-wracking. If I had a dog who needed this care on a regular basis, I’m sure I could get used to it, but as a complete rookie, it was daunting! My heart completely goes out to Lisa, who is providing treatment for both puppies twice a day.

The good news is, the second puppy (who received treatment faster than the first pup, given that the diagnosis was all but ensured with the arrival of his very first symptom) bounced back very quickly and is able to eat and hold down food. And even the sicker first puppy, who had the burden of being more underweight even before they were sick, is starting to eat and is (so far) holding down her small meals.

Given my own puppy fostering experiences, and the fact that I know that these puppies may well have been euthanized if they had the bad luck to “break” with parvo while they were still in the shelter, I can only shake my head in admiration for these local sheroes. Toss them – or your own local shelter or rescue group! – a dollar or two if you can, won’t you? (Here is a link to Lisa’s Venmo account; ordinarily, folks bring checks to Lisa’s home, and while she has this Venmo account, she hasn’t yet set up one for the Doggie Posse.) This work is unrelenting and draining, and everyone involved could use a little help.

Dogs Who Swallow a Lot

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Dogs love sticks! They especially enjoy carrying them and gnawing on them, all of which could cause something to get stuck in their mouths, irritate them, and cause the dog to repeatedly swallow. Credit: Steve Clancy Photography, Getty Images

You notice your dog keeps swallowing a lot, acting like something is stuck in his throat. He may have drool leaking out of his mouth, in addition to swallowing repeatedly.

If your dog will let you, start by gently examining your dog’s mouth to look for a cause of the swallowing. Check the roof of his mouth for something a like a bone shard or short stick stuck across the hard palate. That can be a quick and easy fix if your dog will let you remove it.

NOTE: If you notice a string or thread stuck under his tongue, do NOT try to pull on that. That discovery should lead to a visit to the veterinarian. Your dog need surgery for a linear foreign body, like a string extending from the tongue into the digestive system.

Irritation Causes Excess Saliva

Anything that has irritated the tissues in your dog’s mouth can make him swallow more than usual and is usually accompanied by lots of saliva. This could be tissue damage from chewing on an electric cord or lapping up something hot like coffee laced with sugar and cream. Sneaking a spicy pepper from the garden or chewing on a mildly toxic plant can have the same result.

A dog who is swallowing repeatedly but does not appear to have anything stuck in his mouth may be nauseous. This type of abnormal swallowing is often accompanied by copious saliva, a “hangdog” look, and often some retching.

If you cannot positively identify and correct what’s causing the excessive swallowing, a visit to the veterinary clinic is required to determine the reason.

Dangerous Esophageal Blockages

Excessive swallowing with large amounts of drool and some gagging could indicate something stuck in his esophagus. If you can safely do so, open your dog’s mouth wide and look for a foreign object. You can also palpate his neck from the outside, but many objects are hard to detect and, even if you can see it, you may not be able to remove it yourself. A blockage in the esophagus is nothing to mess around with, and an urgent trip to the veterinarian is in order.

Don’t Try to “Unstick” Dogs After Mating

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male and female pomeranian dog mating, Mating of pet.
While some dogs will panic and yelp when they discover they are “stuck” to their sexual partner after the first stage of intercourse, most will resign themselves to their situation and just wait patiently until it resolves naturally. Dogs who are tied should never be forced apart. Photo by curraheeshutter, Getty Images

If you have just observed two dogs mating for the first time, you may be shocked and concerned; it can look a little disturbing. The way dogs mate is unique among the mammalian species – particularly the part where the dogs get “stuck” together by their genitalia, in a butt-to- butt stance. Sometimes the dogs themselves become alarmed by their inability to escape from their partner, and may yelp or scream in apparent pain or discomfort. That’s when concerned owners or bystanders to an unplanned canine mating may try various things to separate the dogs, from physically pulling them apart to spraying them with water from a cold hose. Both of these tactics are not only ineffective but also cruel and possibly injurious to the dogs. The best thing to do is keep the dogs calm and contained (just snap a leash onto each dog’s collar) and wait for the process to end; they will separate naturally within about five to 45 minutes.

Why Dogs Get “Stuck” When Mating

Dog mating
A successful tie or even the length of the tie does not guarantee pregnancy – and interrupting the process does not guarantee the prevention of a pregnancy. To prevent injury to the dogs, owners or bystanders should just leash the dogs and wait calmly until the dogs separate on their own. Photo by buffaloboy, Getty Images

An intact female dog has two phases to her heat cycle (see “How long are dogs in heat?”). It is during the second phase that she will enter estrus, the period of time during which she will become receptive to being mated with an intact male dog.

The female dog begins the mating process by positioning her tail to the side and allowing the male dog to mount her. The male dog becomes aroused and his penis will become erect and protrude from the prepuce. The male dog will stand on his hindlimbs and grasp the female dog around her “waist” with his forelimbs.

Once mounted, the male dog’s penis enters the female dog’s vagina. The male dog thrusts his hips back and forth for about one to two minutes. Semen is deposited into the female’s vagina during this process. This is the first stage of coitus (intercourse).

Then the male dog will dismount from the female dog and stand with both forelimbs to one side of the female dog. He then swings one hindlimb over the female dog’s hind end. This is called the turn; it marks the end of the first stage and the beginning of the second stage of coitus.

Once the male dog has turned, both dogs will stand facing opposite directions with their hind ends touching. The vulva of the female dog is lined with smooth muscle that contracts around the male dog’s bulbus glandis – a round swelling that surrounds the base of the penis. The contraction of the vulva and muscle contractions at the base of the penis prevent blood from leaving the penis and keeps the penis erect. People who breed dogs call the locking of the vulva around the penis is called “the tie” – most dog owners call it “getting stuck.”

During the second stage of coitus, the male dog will steadily deposit semen into the vagina. Since the vulva and the penis are locked together, the pressure inside the vagina increases. This forces the semen (and therefore the sperm) into the uterus so that the sperm can fertilize the eggs to create little puppy embryos.

The second stage of coitus can last anywhere from five to 45 minutes. Once the smooth muscle of the vulva relaxes, blood is allowed to leave the penis. The erection ceases and the male dog removes his penis from the female dog’s vulva and walks away.

Once dogs have become tied, it is important to let the process resolve naturally. Attempting to “unstick” dogs who are tied can result in serious harm to one or both dogs. The smooth muscle of the vulva is strong and the penis is swollen and erect, essentially locking the penis within the vagina. This is similar to inserting a key in a lock and turning the key; the key will not come out of the lock until the key has been returned to its original position. Once the vulva has relaxed and the penis is no longer erect, the dogs will “unstick” themselves.

A successful tie or even the length of the tie does not guarantee pregnancy – and interrupting the process does not guarantee the prevention of a pregnancy. Other factors play a role in whether or not a dog becomes pregnant, including fertility of the female, sperm count of the male, and the overall health and the age of each dog.

How to Know if Your Dog Is Pregnant

There are two tests to determine whether or not a dog is pregnant. One of these is a test for the hormone relaxin. This is a blood test that can be done by your dog’s veterinarian. Relaxin is produced by the placenta that surrounds the puppy embryos. This hormone is produced starting between day 22 and 27 of pregnancy.

The second test for pregnancy is an ultrasound completed by your dog’s veterinarian. Puppy embryos can be seen on ultrasound as early as three weeks into your dog’s pregnancy.

There is no urine test for pregnancy in dogs like there is for people. There are pregnancy tests that you can purchase on-line for your dog. However, these are blood tests that require that you be comfortable with drawing blood from your dog. For most people, having the blood test completed by their dog’s veterinarian is the safer and easier choice.

Abortion Options for Unwanted Pregnancies

If your dog becomes pregnant and the pregnancy is not desired, there are two options for terminating the pregnancy. Each option carries with it some level of risk for your dog.

The first option is having your dog spayed as soon as possible. There is always risk associated with any surgical and anesthetic procedure. But when a dog is pregnant, there is increased blood flow to the uterus to provide nutrition to the puppy embryos. This increases the risk of bleeding during the spay procedure.

The second option is an injectable medication called dinoprost (also known as prostaglandin F2-alpha) This medication is given twice a day until the puppy embryos are aborted. The earliest this medication can be given is at day 25 of pregnancy. The average length of pregnancy in dogs is 63 days.

Side effects of dinoprost in dogs include abdominal pain, vomiting, increased heart rate, restlessness, anxiety, fever, drooling, difficulty breathing, and panting. Death of the pregnant dog is a possible complication. Dinoprost can be combined with intravaginal administration of a drug called misoprostol to decrease the dose of dinoprost required to terminate a pregnancy.

Preventing Unwanted Pregnancy

If your reproductively intact female dog is in heat and you do not want her to become pregnant, keep her indoors and away from intact male dogs. Closely supervise her when she is outside to ensure that an intact male dog does not come near her. The influence of hormones on the desire to procreate is strong with intact male dogs and with female dogs that are in the second phase of their heat cycle.

The easiest way to prevent a pregnancy in an intact female dog is to have her spayed. Talk to your veterinarian about the appropriate age at which to have your dog spayed.

Worms in Dogs

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tapeworm_eggs
Those things that look like pieces of white rice around this dog’s rear end are tapeworm proglottids – segments of mature worms that contain tapeworm eggs. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Intestinal parasites – such as roundworms, whipworms, hookworms, and tapeworms – are common in dogs and puppies. Mango worms and cuterebra (pronounced cue-tuh-RE-bra) are fly larvae that infect the skin but are not common parasites.

Roundworms

Roundworms are thin, light tan-colored worms that are about one to two millimeters wide (about 1/16 of an inch) and anywhere from four to fifteen centimeters long (about 1 ½ to 6 inches). One end of the worm is shaped like a spear and the other end is lightly coiled. When alive, the entire roundworm will become tightly coiled like a snake.

roundworms
Roundworms are the most common internal parasites that can infect dogs. Photo © Pongsak Tawansaeng | Dreamstime.com

Most adult dogs will not exhibit any symptoms when they are infected with roundworm. It’s rare, but some adult dogs may vomit live roundworms or may have roundworms in their poop.

Puppies infected with roundworm will often have a pot-bellied appearance and a dull haircoat. They may have diarrhea that contains mucus. Unlike adult dogs, infected puppies will often vomit live roundworms and have roundworms in their poop.

Whipworms

Whipworms are extremely thin, white worms that are about 4.5 to 7.5 centimeters long (about 2 to 3 inches). The worm resembles a leather whip (like the one used in the Indiana Jones movies). One end of the worm is thick like a whip’s handle and the other end is thin like a whip’s lash.

Dogs who have only a small number of whipworms in their small and large intestines do not typically show any symptoms of whipworm infection. Dogs who are infected with a large amount of whipworms will often exhibit weight loss and diarrhea.

Hookworms

Hookworms are off-white colored worms that are four to five millimeters wide (about ⅛ of an inch) and one to two centimeters long (about ½ to ¾ of an inch). These worms have a hook on one end that resembles a fish hook.

hookworms
A dog’s intestines can be infested with hookworms – but sometimes, dogs can contract a hookworm infection through penetration of the skin on their feet, causing intense itching of the paws. Photo © Kateryna Kon | Dreamstime.com

Dogs who have only a small number of hookworms in their small intestines do not typically show any symptoms of hookworm infection. Dogs who are infected with a large amount of hookworms may have dark, tarry stool. Left untreated, these dogs may become anemic, lethargic, and lose weight.

Puppies infected with hookworm will often have anemia that can become life-threatening. These puppies may also be thin and lethargic.

Hookworm can also cause pruritic pododermatitis. Hookworm is often thought of as being an intestinal parasite. But hookworm can also enter a dog’s body through penetration of the skin, typically the underside of the webbing between their toes. Hookworm causes an intense itching when it penetrates the skin.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms are off-white colored worms that are 15 to 70 centimeters long (about 6 inches to over two feet). The part of the tapeworm that most people see in a dog’s poop or on the skin around the anus is the proglottid – a segment of the mature worm that breaks off and is released into the dog’s poop. These proglottids, which resemble small grains of rice and may appear around the dog’s anus, or stuck to his fur near his anus, also contain tapeworm eggs.

Dogs rarely show any symptoms of tapeworm infection. The presence of tapeworm proglottids may cause irritation of the skin around the anus, resulting in a dog scooting his butt on the ground.

These parasites are not actually worms

There are two parasites that can infect dogs through their skin, when dogs come into contact with their larvae in soil. The first-stage larvae burrow through the dog’s skin and develop into later-stage larvae, and, eventually into a botfly, which lays its eggs in soil.

Mango worms

The mango worm the larvae of the African tumbu fly. After getting through the dog’s skin, the larva creates a small furuncle that looks like a pimple. The furuncle has a small opening through which the larva breathes.

Once inside the skin, the larva molts into a second stage larva and then a third stage larva. The second stage larva is shaped like a club and is 2.5 to 4.0 millimeters long (about ⅛ of an inch). The third stage larva is shaped like a cylinder and is about 1.5 centimeters long (about ½ of an inch). The initial furuncle may be itchy for a couple of days and then subside. As the larva grows and matures, the furuncle may develop into a painful boil with a weeping discharge. Once the larva has reached maturity, it leaves the boil to finish pupating into the tumbu fly.

Mango worms are endemic in the sub-Saharan region of Africa. Infection with this larva is rarely seen in the United States. When infection with mango worms is seen in the United States, it is typically associated with recent travel to Africa. So, unless your dog is a world traveler, you don’t need to worry about mango worms!

Cuterebra

Cuterebra is the larva of the rabbit botfly. This larva also burrows into the skin and initially creates a small swelling about one centimeter wide. As the larva grows and matures, the swelling can become large and painful and look like an abscess. The swelling will have a small hole in the middle through which the larva breathes. If you look carefully at the hole, you may see the larva moving inside!

Unlike the mango worm, cuterebra is found throughout the United States. Immature larvae are grey or cream-colored, shaped like a cylinder with little ridges, and 0.5 to 1 centimeter long (about ¼ to ½ inch). The mature larvae are dark grey, can be up to three centimeters long (about 1 ¼ inches) and are cylindrically shaped with many ridges and spines.

Does Dog Food Expire?

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pet food storage, the owner pours dry food from the container box into the dog bowl, cat feed
This looks like a convenient airtight container, but where is the kibble from the rest of the bag? If the main bag was simply “rolled” shut, it’s not being stored properly, and the nutrients will degrade that much faster. Credit: Yana Tikhonova

Buying a large bag of dog food can cost you a few pennies less per pound, but it’s not worth the savings if you can’t use the bag up within four to six weeks. While dog foods don’t technically “expire,” foods past their “best by” or “use by” label dates are not as nutritious and are more likely to become moldy or otherwise compromised (even toxic). Don’t use dog food past its “best by” or “use by” date. It’s like eating expired breakfast cereal (yuck!).

Consider “Best By” an Expiration Date

The “use by” or “best by” dates are important enough to consider expiration dates. When a nutritionist formulates dog food, he or she calculates how long various ingredients, vitamins, and minerals remain potent and when they start to degrade. By the time you get to that “use by” date, you’re probably close to running on empty nutritionally. Be sure to consult our Approved Dog Foods list to find the best foods you can feed your dog.

And store it according to instructions. A study from the National Institutes of Health, the biggest mistake people make is not paying attention to temperature warnings. The report states, “Room temperature was the most overlooked parameter during storage, and this may be a cause of concern because exposure to warmth can enhance rancidity, especially in diet formulations rich in fats and oils.”

Dog Treats Shelf Life

Dog treats expire too, and they also usually have a “best by” date. Some packaging even says things like, “Use within 30 days after opening.” Pay attention to that warning. Once you open the package and air hits the product, it begins to degrade. So, if an unopened bag of treats lists December 12, 2024, as its use by date and you open it on February 8, the “best by” date is no longer of interest. Use the same four to six weeks rule of thumb to decide when to toss any remaining treats.

It’s all about air and storage. If you’re using treats for training, always buy small packages because you want that reward for good behavior to be the very best. If you’re not using the treats for training, why are you buying them? You can make your own dog treats, too, including frozen ones and baked treats.

Dog Food Storage

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says proper storage of pet foods begins with an airtight container that’s clean and dry and has an airtight seal and in its original packing. It is important to have the lot number in case of a recall. (Opened wet food must be stored in the refrigerator; a few treats do, too, so always read the packaging.)

It’s easy to make mistakes when storing dog food.  Always wash and dry the dog food container before putting another batch in, otherwise you risk the residue molding and contaminating the new food. Be sure it’s moisture-proof and airtight. Store the container out of the dog’s reach and, preferably, sight. Accidents happen when dogs get unsupervised access to storage containers.

Best Dog Breeds for Seniors

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Dogs are wonderful companions and the fact that a person is aging is not a valid reason to avoid getting a new dog. Credit: Alistair Berg | Getty Images

Many well-meaning people believe the best dogs for seniors are low-maintenance dog breeds that don’t require a lot of grooming or exercise. And, while there’s logic here, it’s not a fact cast in stone.

First, no one wants to be told, “You’re too old to own a dog.” I am 73 years old and have always owned Shelties, which are little dogs. When I recently fell in love with a Golden Retriever puppy, I was told, “You’re too old for a big dog.” What?

OK, there were times when I thought these well-meaning friends were right. Having three Shelties, a large puppy, and two knee replacements in the same year took some managing, but it was completely worth it. And, you may run into age prejudice when looking for a new dog, but if you put all the pieces in place – especially with the dog’s best future in mind – there’s no reason a senior person can’t have a dog. Dogs are wonderful companions.

To find the best dog for a senior, determine what the older adult can and cannot physically do. Older people who walk dogs do have an elevated risk of injury, according to a study on emergency department visits. But that doesn’t mean seniors must only have little dogs – I don’t!

Take your time when choosing and, if it’s possible, consider a foster-to-adopt situation from a reputable rescue organization. With a foster situation, you get to live with the dog and take your time deciding if this dog is a fit for you. This way, you don’t get stuck in a heartbreaking situation where the dog needs far more exercise or training than you can manage, and you don’t know what to do for him.

Breeds for Seniors

Certainly, natural dominant characteristics in each dog breed should be considered if you’re specifically looking for a low-maintenance dog breed or a low-energy dog. Most dog experts would agree, for example, that:

  • Terriers have lots of energy
  • Shelties bark a lot
  • Border Collies need a job
  • Brachycephalic dogs are at an increased risk for many illnesses
  • Labrador and Golden retrievers are sometimes quiet at home but come to life in the field
  • Mixed breeds can be the best or the worst of its varied lineage. For example, I have seen crazy and quiet Doodles.

But these are generalities. Each dog is an individual.

Senior man sitting on sofa, playing with dog, close-up
The best dog for a senior is one that fits with the person’s lifestyle in terms of the person’s daily activities and the dog’s level of required exercise and his temperament. Credit: LWA | Getty Images

If you’re determined to get a certain breed, researching the breed’s likely characteristics is important. If the desired dog is a puppy, talk with breeders. Each puppy is an individual. I do temperament tests for many breeders when their puppies are 49 days old. At this age, the pups have not yet been influenced by the outside world, but with feedback from the temperament tests, breeders can hopefully match a puppy to each new owner’s lifestyle.

Adopting a dog could be a match made in heaven, if you use a reputable rescue organization. If you’re not sure, talk with your veterinarian. Most good rescues foster incoming dogs so they can evaluate the dog and place it with owners who have a similar lifestyle. As a senior, you may not want a Border Collie or mix that needs a job and never seems to stop. This is the type of dog who puts a ball in your lap during every waking hour. You might, however, find a delightful dog in need of a home because his owner passed away.

If you’re looking for a dog who loves peaceful walks and napping at your feet – and are determined to get a specific breed – breeders often have older retired show dogs available for adoption. These dogs have lived busy lives and may be ready to settle down.

In both this circumstance and adopting a dog from a shelter, be sure to discuss a return policy if you and the dog aren’t well-suited after a specified time, such as 30 days. Finally, do not buy your puppy or adult dog from a pet shop or a puppy mill. Period.

Size Matters

Smaller dogs absolutely carry some advantages for seniors:

  • They don’t need as much exercise as a larger dog
  • Maintenance tends to be easier, just based on body size
  • They cost less, especially since they eat less

However, there are disadvantages:

  • If grandchildren often visit, a tiny dog can easily be hurt
  • Longhaired small dogs require regular grooming
  • Mini or standard, Poodles and Poodle mixes require regular and expensive hair cuts

If you’re determined to get a larger dog, you may find a nice Labrador who is happy to lay at your feet all day. But could you take him for a walk? Could you hold him if he saw a squirrel? Make a decision you can live with because being unable to physically handle a dog can lead to tragedy for you and for that dog.

Puppy Concerns

Do you want a puppy? OK. Remember that a puppy needs to be supervised 24/7 and crated during the brief periods you are not with him. Puppies may need to go out in the middle of the night. They must be pottied early in the morning, before bed, and about every hour or so in between until they are housebroken. Are you able to commit to that?

And, of course, puppies require frequent trips to the vet for vaccinations every few months. Do you have the financial means to do that?

Puppies have tons of energy. After a short nap, they are ready to go again. I like long naps, and I missed them when Rose, my Golden, was growing up. I would have to exhaust her and then hope she would sleep for an hour so I could get my nap in.

And those teeth! Baby teeth are so sharp. My husband has very thin skin, and he wound up with horrible bruising under the skin from our playful pup. I would yell “incoming” if the puppy was headed his way so he could get a toy for the pup to grab instead of his wrist. Ok, so maybe a puppy is just too much for us seniors.

Settling In

When you’ve chosen your dog and brought him home, don’t expect miracles the first few days or weeks. Give it lots of time. Let your dog come around on his own. He needs to get to know you and feel comfortable in his new home. If he is a rescue, no one truly knows what he has been through. He needs to learn to feel safe. With time and care, eventually he will love you. The belief is that rescues know they have been rescued and are forever thankful.

After your dog settles in, consider taking training lessons. Training is a must. You won’t want to live with a rude dog, and you won’t have many visitors if yours is obnoxious. (But maybe you don’t want a lot of visitors anyway!) Sure, you’ve trained dogs in the past, but not THIS dog. Classes will help you with your dog and will help you develop a relationship with your new friend.

A bonus to seniors owning a dog is that your furball will get you out of the recliner and out of the house. He wants to go for a walk, play a game, learn a trick, go for ice cream, visit the park, or enjoy a car ride. Training will allow you to do all these things. Even if he doesn’t mind staying home, you owe it to him to enrich his life with some outside activities.

Doggie daycare is a wonderful option for a dog that needs a little more exercise than you can give him. A morning or two a week of roughhousing with other dogs might be all he needs. Hire a dog walker if you are physically unable to walk your dog. When I had my knee surgery, my pup went back to the breeder for several weeks until I could exercise her again. I don’t know what I would have done without the breeder’s help.

The Future

Make sure that relatives and friends know that you have a dog should you wind up in the hospital unexpectedly. Also, it’s extremely important that you make sure your dog has a place to go when you pass. Every time I have surgery, I review with my friends and family who gets what dog if I don’t wake up. They think I’m silly, but I feel better knowing my dogs will be cared for if the worst happens.

Getting a dog can be one of the best decisions you have ever made as well. A dog provides love and companionship and can often fill an emptiness in a senior’s life. If you suddenly find yourself a senior – and believe me, it kind of creeps up on you – this article should help you make the best decision of your senior life.

According to my husband, a dog in his lap eliminates tension and brings down his blood pressure. I know that when I look at my two Shelties and Golden, I feel a calmness overtake me. I am ever so thankful for their presence. I wish the same for you.

Ways to Fail at Training A Recall

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The Recall: Teach Your Dog To Come When Called eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Let’s consider a few common training mistakes when training a recall cue:

Recall is a learned behavior, just like anything else you teach your dog. It’s not hard to teach and it’s not hard to train, but you do have to do the work. Unfortunately, dogs don’t come with an English software package installed, so it’s up to us to teach them the behavior, then add the cue and then practice the recall so that the dog truly learns the behavior.

Practice should take place through all four stages of learning: acquisition, fluency, generalization, and maintenance. First, the dog has to begin to acquire the skill of returning to you. Then you continue to practice so that the behavior is fluent and is occurring with regularity. Next, generalize the behavior of coming to you in a variety of places and settings, always beginning in a low-distraction environment, and as your dog makes progress, moving to a slightly more distracting environment.

Do all of this before ever practicing in a highly distracting environment (such as off-leash play with other dogs). Eventually you reach the maintenance phase of learning, where you continue to practice recall so that the behavior stays solid.

Here’s a common scenario: People train their dog to come to them when they say “Come” – but almost as soon as that is accomplished, they begin using the word very casually and taking the (formerly much sought-after) behavior for granted, and failing to even acknowledge, much less reward it.

As an example, say you use the word “Come” to call your dog when she’s outside enjoying herself; she returns to you the first time you call because you’re nice to her and you feed her; there’s a bit of reinforcement history between the two of you. But then you bring her inside the house, you pick up your car keys, and you go to work.

From your dog’s perspective, you’ve just taken the “good stuff” away (the outdoors with all those awesome smells!) and ignored her (by locking her inside and going to work). In dog training, taking the good stuff away constitutes punishment, and punishment makes the behavior of coming to you less likely.

If there’s one sure way to insure your dog never comes back to you, it’s yelling or screaming at (or heaven forbid, hitting) your dog when she doesn’t come back to you. If you do this, it cements in your dog’s brain that you’re unpredictable and the behavior you cherish and want so much is very likely to not happen again.

For more information about the rocket recall cue, download the ebook The Recall from Whole Dog Journal.

Allergies in Dogs

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Golden Retriever Puppy Scratching fleas on white background
The main symptom of allergies in dogs is itching. However, there are many causes of itchy skin in dogs; it takes time and a proper diagnosis to find the right solution that will relieve your dog’s scratching, chewing, and licking his itchy skin. and Photo by cmannphoto, Getty Images.

The most common symptom of allergies in dogs is itching. If your dog often licks, chews, or scratches at his skin, he very likely has allergies. There are many tools available to make our itchy dogs comfortable again. But there are many causes of itchy skin, and it takes time and a proper diagnosis to find the right solution.

Common allergens in dogs

Allergens in dogs can be divided into three groups: airborne and contact allergens, flea allergy dermatitis, and food allergens.

  • Airborne and contact allergens include plant pollen (from trees, grasses, and weeds), mold spores, dust and dust mites, and skin dander. These allergens cause itchiness in allergic dogs when the allergens are breathed in, make contact with the dogs’ skin, and/or are licked off the dog’s feet and coat. These allergies often have a seasonal component (and are referred to as “seasonal allergies”). When a seasonal link is not observed (such as with an allergy to dust and/or dust mites), this may be called “environmental allergies.”
  • Flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) – where an allergic response to the saliva of fleas, injected in the dog’s skin when the flea bites, causes inflammed, itchy skin – is a very common disorder in dogs.
  • Food allergies are not common in dogs. For those dogs who do have a food allergy, the most common food allergens are chicken, beef, dairy, and eggs. Grains – including corn and wheat – are the least common food allergens in dogs.

Symptoms of allergies

Dogs with allergies can be itchy anywhere on their bodies. However, most dogs with allergies caused by pollen, mold spores, indoor allergens, and food will be itchy primarily on the underside of their chest and belly (including the armpits and groin), around the butt under the tail, paws, ears, and around the eyes and lips. Dogs with flea allergy dermatitis are primarily itchy on their back in front of their tail, and on their thighs, underside of the belly, neck, and ears.

An allergic dog may chew, lick, and scratch at his skin, damaging the skin’s protective barrier. The protective barrier is composed of oils and the bacterial skin flora. Damaging this barrier is like filling in the moat around a castle; it allows opportunistic bacteria and yeast to gain access to the deeper layers of skin.

A dog who is itchy and has red, irritated, or damaged skin and hair loss in those areas is said to have atopic dermatitis. This is an inflammatory condition characterized by an increased production of IgE antibodies in response to an allergen. Ectoparasites such as mites can also cause itchy skin but are not atopic dermatitis.

Allergy tests and allergy diagnosis

Skin allergy test on dog
In an intradermal skin test, a veterinary dermatologist injects a small amount of the most common allergens that are suspected to cause the dog’s allergies, one bleb of allergen to each spot marked by a pen in a grid on the dog’s skin. After a few minutes, each spot where a substance was injected is examined for the presence of a wheal (raised red swelling of the skin). The appearance of a wheal indicates that the dog is allergic to the substance injected in that spot. Photo by Firn, Getty Images.

Allergies are a diagnosis of exclusion. There are a lot of conditions that look like atopic dermatitis (see “Seriously Itchy Paws,” WDJ November 2022), so these need to be diagnostically ruled out before concluding that allergies are causing your dog’s itching and irritated skin.

Observation of the timing and frequency of your dog’s itching can help diagnose allergies and help pinpoint the allergen that your dog is sensitive to. If your dog is itchy at the same time every year he has a seasonal allergy. Tree, grass, or weed pollen that is prevalent at a certain time of year will trigger your dog’s itching. His symptoms will fade when the pollen stops being released and has been washed away by rain or swept away by wind.

In contrast, dust and storage mites exist inside our homes and can cause itchiness all year long. This is a non-seasonal allergy. Mold spores can cause both seasonal and non-seasonal allergies depending on the source (outdoors or indoors).

Only two types of allergy testing have been shown to provide more information about what is causing a dog’s environmental allergies: an intradermal allergy test and a serum allergy panel.

An intradermal allergy test is performed by a veterinary dermatologist. An area of skin on one side of your dog is shaved and tiny blebs of different substances – potential allergens – are injected into your dog’s skin. These injections are mapped out in a grid format. After a few minutes, each spot where a substance was injected is examined for the presence of a wheal (raised red swelling of the skin). The appearance of a wheal indicates that your dog is allergic to the substance injected in that spot. Intradermal skin tests are considered the gold standard tests for identifying inhaled or contact allergens for an individual dog.

A serum allergy panel can be completed by any veterinarian. This involves taking a sample of your dog’s blood and submitting it to a laboratory that specializes in allergy testing. Levels of antibodies to airborne and contact allergens prevalent in your geographic region are measured. If the level of antibodies to a particular antigen is high, then your dog may be allergic to that allergen. These tests are useful for determining which allergens should go into a dog’s allergy hyposensitization therapy (a.k.a. “allergy shots”), but should not be considered as a diagnostic tool, as they often return false positive results.

There is no blood or saliva test that has been shown to accurately diagnose food allergies in dogs. The only proven method for diagnosing food allergies is a diet elimination trial, which is a long and time-consuming process.

In a diet elimination trial, your dog is fed a novel protein diet – one that contains only protein ingredients your dog has never previously been fed. The novel protein diet is the only food he is fed until his itchiness is completely resolved. Then, other individual food ingredients are added back into your dog’s diet, one at a time, while you observe your dog for the recurrence of any allergic reaction, which would indicate that your dog is allergic to that ingredient. If this happens, that ingredient is removed from the diet until your dog is completely without allergy symptoms; only then would another single ingredient be added to the diet for testing.

During the diet elimination trial, it is vitally important that your dog eat nothing except the prescribed novel protein diet. This means no treats, flavored dog chews, table scraps, and no flavored medications, including some oral flea/tick and heartworm preventatives. (This does not mean that your dog has to go without these important protections; there are flea/tick and heartworm preventatives that can be used during the diet elimination trial.)

How to treat canine allergies

There are several treatment options for dogs with allergies:

  • A veterinarian may prescribe medications that interrupt a process in the body called the “itch cascade.” This is a series of reactions that begins when a dog is exposed to an allergen and ends with the dog feeling itchy. These treatment options – like Apoquel and Cytopoint – interrupt the itch cascade so the dog does not reach the stage of feeling itchy.
  • Medications that modulate or dampen the immune system’s response to allergens – such as prednisone and Atopica (modified cyclosporine) – may be prescribed by a veterinarian. There are potential side effects for these medications, so baseline bloodwork and periodic monitoring may be necessary when using them.
  • Dogs with known food allergies may benefit from a limited ingredient, novel protein diet. Hills, Royal Canin, and Purina all have specially formulated diets that meet these criteria. Unlike limited ingredient diets that are available to purchase without a prescription, these diets are produced separately from other diets to eliminate cross-contamination with proteins that may cause an allergic reaction. Again, if the offending food ingredient is known, a limited-ingredient diet that does not contain that ingredient may help a dog, but if cross-contamination occurs at the pet food manufacturing plant, the allergic dog may suffer symptoms (and the dog’s owner won’t know why!).
  • Dogs who do not have known food allergies may benefit from a diet that promotes a healthy skin barrier and flora. This type of diet is available from both Hills and Royal Canin and can be ordered through your dog’s veterinarian.
  • Immunotherapy is an effective but time-consuming treatment option for CAD. This involves exposing a dog to low doses of allergens to retrain how their immune system responds to exposure to those allergens. To begin, allergy testing is completed to determine what a dog is allergic to and how severe their response is to those allergens. An immunotherapy serum is created specifically for each individual dog and can be given by injection weekly or by mouth daily. Immunotherapy is continued for at least a year and sometimes longer to achieve a positive effect.
  • Bathing your dog once or twice a week with a medicated shampoo prescribed by your veterinarian may help to promote a healthy skin barrier. Some medicated shampoos are formulated to address concurrent bacterial and yeast infections. A leave-in mousse can be applied after bathing to soothe irritated skin, reduce foul skin odor, and resolve infections.
  • A supplement that contains the omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA can help promote a healthy skin barrier. EPA and DHA have also been shown to interfere with the production of chemicals in the skin that cause inflammation and itchiness. These fatty acids are found in fish oil, but not coconut or olive oils. High-quality omega-3 fatty acids can be found in the products Welactin and Eicosaderm.
  • A nutraceutical called palmitoylethenolamide (PEA) may help to reduce the amount of histamine that is released by mast cells in the skin. Reducing the amount of histamine released in the skin can decrease the intensity of a dog’s itchiness. A product called Redonyl is available as a flavored chewable without a prescription.
  • Using a high-quality flea preventative all year long is an extremely important part of the treatment plan for dogs with atopic dermatitis. Dogs with allergies are often reactive to several allergens, including flea saliva. Decreasing exposure to fleas is one simple thing we can do to help these dogs be less itchy.

Finding the source of your dog’s itch can be a long and frustrating process. But you do not need to navigate this process alone. Your veterinarian is the best resource for properly diagnosing and treating the cause of your dog’s itchy skin.

What are allergies?

Skin allergies (also known as atopic dermatitis or atopy) are when a dog becomes itchy after repeated exposure to an allergen. This allergen could be pollen, human or animal dander, fleas, mold spores, or a food protein.

The immune system is in charge of protecting your dog from outside invaders, such as bacteria or viruses. When the immune system encounters bacteria or viruses that don’t belong in your dog’s body, it mounts what is known as an immune response, a carefully orchestrated series of events that results in the destruction of the invading bacteria or virus.

Sometimes the immune system mistakes a benign substance – like a plant pollen or dust mite – for a dangerous invader. Repeated exposure to this benign substance creates an exaggerated immune response, resulting in the release of histamine from mast cells in the body. When mast cells in the skin release histamine, it causes either localized itchiness (scratching or licking at one spot on the body) or generalized pruritus (scratching or licking of more than one region).

Allergy Tests That Don't Work

There are several allergy tests available for dog owners to purchase in pet stores and online that tout their ability to test for airborne, contact, and food allergies. These tests use either samples of saliva or fur to determine what allergies a dog may have. None of these tests have been independently validated or proven to be accurate.

A study published in 2018 investigated one of the allergy tests that claimed it could identify allergens in dogs through samples of saliva and fur. The researchers found that multiple tests run on samples from the same dog showed a different allergen profile on each test submitted. Test results show a long list of allergens for dogs who, in reality, had no allergy symptoms. Dogs who had allergies in which the allergens had been determined by one of the aforementioned validated tests received results that did not match the results from the validated tests. The researchers also received results indicating that their test subjects were allergic to many foods and pollens – even though the samples they submitted contained only water (no salive from any animal) and fake costume fur!

Two studies published in 2019 examined the validity of both saliva and serum allergy testing for food allergens. One study submitted samples from two groups of dogs: one with skin allergies and one without. Both groups of dogs tested positive for food allergens. And the results for the dogs with skin allergies did not match what had been found during their diet elimination trials! In the other study, researchers recruited 30 healthy dogs from faculty, staff, and students from the Cummings Veterinary Medical Center at Tufts University. Dogs who had any history of previous health issues, whether gastrointestinal or dermatologic, were excluded from the study. One saliva-based test and two blood serum-based tests that purport to identify allegies to certain food ingredients were performed for each dog. Despite the fact that not a single dog in the study had every shown any sign of adverse effects from any food, every dog had at least one “positive” result from these tests – and three dogs tested positive for all 24 food ingredients assessed! Given the total lack of allergy symptoms displayed by the dogs, all of these results are false positives, suggesting that these serum and saliva tests contribute to overdiagnosis of adverse food reactions in dogs.

The Dog Days of Summer

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The anti-social puppy is (always) at the rear of the group gathered by my office chair to ask for treats. The pup closest to the camera is from the first litter I brought home. All of these latest foster pups were born in the shelter from dogs who were seized in a cruelty/neglect case.

I hope you and your companion animals all survived Independence Day, the least favorite holiday of many of us dog owners. I live close to a casino that not only puts on its own fireworks show, but invites people from the surrounding area – where setting off fireworks is prohibited by county law – to set off their own fireworks in the casino parking lot. Oy! Inadvertently, we moved to a twice-a-year war zone (there are also lots of fireworks getting set off on New Year’s Eve.)

Otto was the one dog in my family who, late in life, developed a severe fear of fireworks. Having passed last month, he didn’t have to suffer through this experience again. And, fortunately, my 7-year-old dog Woody couldn’t care less about the booms, crackles, and flashes in the sky. The data is not yet clear whether Boone, my 1 ½-year-old dog, will develop a fear of fireworks. Last year, when he was just a pup, he paid them no mind. This year, he was concerned at the loudest noises, and kept close to me throughout the night, but didn’t develop the full-on wide-eyed, panting panic that Otto displayed in the years before he lost the ability to hear the racket.

Though the last of my foster puppies had spent the previous week on the adoption row at the shelter, I was hosting the final four of them over the long holiday weekend that the shelter was closed, so they didn’t have to spend all of those days in a tiny kennel without the possibility of meeting potential adopters. While they ordinarily sleep in a doghouse in a pen outside my house, I didn’t want them exposed to the July 4 cacophony. I kept them with Boone and me in my office, with a ceiling fan whirring and the evaporative cooler roaring and music playing for good measure. They looked mildly concerned at the loudest booms, but around midnight things finally quieted enough outdoors that I was able to turn off all the noise-masking measures and get some sleep.

The morning after the 4th, I brought the puppies back to the shelter, and I hope they get adopted soon. I think we can all agree that all puppies are cute, but some are cuter than others – and these are not the cutest puppies I’ve ever fostered. They don’t resemble any easily identifiable breeds, which makes it more difficult to market them. We can point to their mother, who is also still at the shelter (more about that in a moment), but she’s not the cutest dog, either, though she has a sweet personality and is a great size: about 30 pounds. (I find that’s sort of a sweet spot in size for people who don’t want a small or a large dog.) But she’s also sort of funny-looking; she has a small head and a pointy nose with a bit of an underbite, like the dog in The Simpsons. So the shelter staffers have not been pointing out the puppies’ parentage, but simply mentioning that their mom is about 30 pounds.

The mothers of both litters of puppies I have been fostering are heartworm-positive; whomever takes them home is also going to have to take them through treatment for their heartworm infections. It always takes a while to find adopters who are ready and able to take on that responsibility and cost for a new dog. This shelter, like most, lacks the funding to treat heartworm-positive dogs, though they start pre-treating the dogs with doxycycline, which harms Wolbachia, the bacteria that infect heartworms. This reduces the dog’s side effects caused by the death of the heartworms.  The shelter also incentivizes the adoptions of these heartworm-positive dogs by waiving adoption fees, but it can take months and months to find someone to take on this project.

This is the mother of the four pups who spent the July 4 “weekend” with me. The shelter is calling all of them “German Shepherd-mixes” – and there might be a tiny bit of German Shepherd in them! They are so mixed that I would be hard-pressed to ascribe any particular breed to them.

I have been worrying about them, and also worrying about one of the puppies, whose behavior is markedly strange. I think she is the first truly behaviorally divergent puppies I have ever fostered, in that she’s markedly uninterested in humans or whatever affection they have to offer. She is also the first pup I’ve ever fostered (out of nearly 200 over the past 15 or so years), who, when I first brought this liter home, would immediately separate from the rest of the puppies and go wandering all over my property by herself. She’d never cry or whine when she was clearly “lost,” her rambling having taken her to the far side of my two acres; she’d just lie down and nap until I found her. I quickly learned to watch her like a hawk when I brought the pups out of their pen to potty and play, so I could keep track of her perambulations and bring her back before she got too far away.

She also shows not one iota of pleasure when being held or petted, unlike the rest of the wagging, happy pups who love human attention, petting, and play. When picked up, she freezes like a wild animal, tense, with her paws curled almost into fist shapes.  She won’t make eye contact, but slowly, stiffly, turns her head away if you try to look directly at her while holding her – and holding her is the only way you can pet her; she backs away and runs away if you reach toward her.

Fortunately, she does like treats, and will come and sit politely with the rest of the puppies for treats – the one behavior that all my foster pups learn while they stay with me, whether for a day or more than months. And while she always sits at the back of the group so she can make a quick getaway with her treats, in recent weeks, I’ve been insisting that each pup tolerate a light touch on the back with one hand before they can take the treat I’m offering with the other hand. That’s increased her tolerance for being touched – but I don’t think there’s any way that she’s going to be chosen over the puppies who are pro-social and affectionate. I see a potential longer-term fostering project in my future.

Tips For Dog-Walking Etiquette

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Man walking dog
When walking your dog, pay undistracted attention to your dog. Not only will he be safer and happier knowing your eye is on him, but so will you. Credit: Blue Images | Getty Images

Dog walking is great exercise for you and your dog. A study published in the American Journal of Lifestyle Medicine highlighted the health benefits for you and showed that the idea of walking the dog prompted more people to start exercising. But you need to do it safely, for you and for your dog.

Pay Attention to Your Dog

The best tip for walking your dog in a public place is basic: Pay attention to your dog and what he’s doing. You need to be able to anticipate what’s going to happen next, so you can reward him if he’s good, correct him before he’s bad, and keep him safe.

Don’t Text and Walk

Walking your dog is not the time to be talking on the phone or, worse, testing someone. Talking and texting divert your attention from what your dog is doing. And if you suddenly need two hands–because your dog is doing something he shouldn’t or because he’s being attacked–one hand is already holding the phone.

Sides Don’t Matter

Dog trainers say it doesn’t matter which side of you the dog is walking on, as long as he’s not pulling and disturbing other people or dogs. Hunting dogs and show dogs are expected to walk on the left side of their handler, unless asked to do otherwise.

On Leash

Keep your dog on a leash, unless you are in an enclosed area where it’s permissible (and no strange dogs are there, too). Walking on a leash isn’t something dogs do naturally. They normally run around, sniffing, eating what they find, urinating on other things.

Walking is a modern, man-made convention, and dogs must be trained to do it properly. If you can’t do it yourself, don’t be ashamed. Find a fear-free trainer, a dog club that offers classes, or maybe a Cooperative Extension office that offers canine-education courses.  Don’t feel bad. Most humans need to be taught the right way to do it too.

If you’re walking at dark, dawn, or dusk, be sure both you and your dog are visible. Wear bright clothing and/or one of the many commercial light apparatuses that help you stand out.

If  you’re running with your dog, be sure that your dog is physically fit to run with you and that you find a surface that won’t injure his pads.

Carry Poop Bags

It’s extremely important to be prepared to pick up poop. Leaving the poop there is not only rude, it can be dangerous if someone slips in it, and (in some areas) you may be fined.

Poop bags are not expensive, and not only are there a countless number of brands available, but you can also get special holders to put the bags in while you’re walking, in case you’re concerned about the smell or simply uncomfortable carrying the bag.

Note: Some public walking paths have poop containers, so you don’t have to carry it with you, and often provide poop bags. The downside of not having the bag with you at that correct moment is going back and trying to find the pile.

Best Foods for Dogs with Diarrhea

Bland foods are one of the best foods for dogs with diarrhea.
Dogs love scrambled eggs, as shown in this puppy photo! And scrambled eggs—plain—is a good option for feeding many dogs with diarrhea. Start slowly, though, to be sure your dog tolerates them. One of the other options in this story might be a better choice for you. Credit: SolStock | Getty Images

The best thing to feed your dog battling diarrhea is a food that is bland and high in fiber. You still want reasonable nutrition, but first you need to get the loose stools under control. Obviously, consulting your veterinarian is wise, and he or she may recommend a medication if the diarrhea is severe (remember, diarrhea dehydrates a dog, just as it does us!). You will probably also be advised to feed your dog oatmeal or chicken and rice. Here’s why those choices are best to help settle your dog’s gastrointestinal tract.

What to Feed a Dog with Diarrhea

Fiber is amazing. It can help with both loose stools and constipation. And it’s a natural food source. Fiber soaks up fluid and slows the food’s passage through the digestive tract, helping to firm up the dog’s stool.

Oatmeal for Diarrhea in Dogs

Fiber is why oatmeal is a good food for dogs with diarrhea: It’s naturally high in fiber! Oatmeal that is minimally processed is your best choice—no packets of instant oatmeal—and that means steel-cut oats are your best choice. You can use plain “quick oats” in a pinch, but they are processed to cook more quickly. Try to stick with steel-cut oats.

Other excellent sources of fiber for dogs include plain (emphasis on plain) canned pumpkin (not baking pumpkin for pies!), beet pulp, brown rice, carrots, and apple slices.

Many dogs like sweet potatoes, and they have plenty of good nutrients as well as healthy fiber (again, no seasoning!). Feed them cooked, not raw.

Kale and green beans are other possible fiber sources. Added vegetables should be plain, not buttered or spiced.

Chicken and Rice for Diarrhea in Dogs

Dogs with diarrhea need foods that are easily digested. But, if they’re on a bland diet for a while, the dog needs a quality protein source, as well as high-fiber food. Boiled chicken with rice is a standby for dogs with diarrhea for good reason. Chicken is a quality protein that is easily digested. Often for dogs battling a GI upset, veterinarians recommend starting with white rice, as it is more bland than brown rice. With diarrhea, however, brown rice adds some nice fiber, too.

Other Bland Food to Feed a Dog with Diarrhea

Scrambled eggs will help dogs with diarrhea, and dogs love scrambled eggs, but stick to just plain eggs. Don’t add butter, milk, or cheese, in case your dog is sensitive to dairy products.

Plain mashed potatoes (even instant ones) are often easy on a dog’s digestive tract. These easily digested foods are also good for a dog recovering from a bout of vomiting.

Metamucil may help a dog with diarrhea as well. You don’t have to feed much. Small dogs only need one-quarter of a teaspoon.

With any of these suggestions, try a small amount first. Not every dog can tolerate all these recommended foods. One of my own dogs responded to potatoes and rice with soft stools and horrible gas!

Finally, if your dog has chronic diarrhea, you must involve your veterinarian. It could be parasites, disease, or a change in your dog’s food formulation you aren’t even aware of, but you need to track down the source.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”