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Dog Sports for Reactive Dogs

The best dog sports for reactive dogs will help the dog relax and focus.
For many dogs with reactive behavior, scent-based sports like tracking are an excellent choice because the natural act of scent work decreases cortisol levels and naturally helps the dog focuse. Credit: Heather Paul | Getty Images

Dog Sports. These two words conjure up a vision of fun for you and your dog. But what if your dog is reactive to either other dogs or humans or both? Are some dog sports better than others for dogs with reactive behaviors? The answer is yes. We will explain which sports are better choices for reactive dogs and which ones are probably best left alone.

Before we start, is your dog reactive? Reactive dogs are dogs that become overly aroused by what would be considered by most dogs to be normal things. A reactive dog isn’t necessarily aggressive, although some are. It’s just a dog who gets too excited by everyday things in the dog’s environment. A dog with reactive behavior may bark loudly without stopping, possibly lunging at the stimulus, or maybe snap or growl in excitement.

For dogs who exhibit reactive behavior, some dog sports can help reduce your dog’s stress and put their high-intensity focus to work, but you should give great consideration to your choice of a dog sport and, we recommend, work with a trainer.

Dog Sports for Dog-Reactive Dogs

Scentwork/nosework. This is the most cortisol-reducing dog sport out there, meaning it helps reduce your dog’s stress. The simple act of sniffing brings down the heart rate and the cortisol level.

I was advised that the National Association of Canine Scent Work or NACSW is the most welcoming of nosework venues. This is a specific competition venue/organization that is separate from other scentwork trials. It’s understood in NACSW that if your dog is reactive, they wear a red bandana to alert others that they need space. There are often separate parking and potty areas for such as well, proving an additional layer of emotional safety for both the dog and their human.

All dogs work from their vehicles. Dogs must always be in cars unless they are taking their turn or for a potty trip. There are no exceptions, and it’s well enforced at all trials. NACSW has trademarked the term nosework, so all other competitions are called scentwork. Other venues can be hit or miss for accommodations made for reactive dogs. The dogs do their search without other dogs present in all venues, but navigating the venue areas itself may not be as easy in other venues not run by this organization.

Tracking (as in trailing a scent along a path) is a great option for reactive dogs since this is done one at a time and the dog stays on a leash. It’s also deeply relaxing for the dog in question, because it involves sniffing/scent, which lowers cortisol levels and decreases the reactivity baseline.

Dock diving can be done with a reactive dog. Competing is done with one dog on the dock at a time. Waiting on one’s turn, spacing can depend on the venue, but there is typically an option to keep sufficient distance between your dog and other dogs, for all but the most reactive dogs. Do keep in mind though that this is a high adrenaline activity so some coping skills for reactivity should already be in place for your dog to reach for before and after his/her turn.

Trick training can be done with just you and your dog. I don’t know any dogs who dislike learning tricks and getting rewards, and your dog can earn titles. Win/win for the dog and the human!

Weight pulling is another sport where reactive dogs can excel. There are accommodations that can be made in competitions for all but the most reactive dogs. This type of sport can help dogs to focus on something other than other dogs. Your dog must be in top physical shape for this sport, however.

Dog Dancing aka Canine Freestyle can be a good choice with some quality work on reactivity. Although this sport is done off leash and requires basic obedience training, it is a carefully taught dance that focuses on the relationship between the human and the dog. There is much more mutual focus between the two species with this activity than with many other dog sports. Building a superb relationship such as required for successful canine freestyle in of itself mitigates quite a bit of reactivity.

Sports to Avoid With a Reactive Dog

Some sports are high-adrenaline, exciting sports that can even put normally quiet dogs in a state of overexcitement. Some reactive dogs do participate and excel in these sports, but they require a savvy handler, a great deal of training, and the ability of the dog to focus on the event itself. For most reactive dogs, it’s best to avoid these sports.

Canicross. Already high adrenaline, this sport is basically cross-country running with your dog, except that the dog is pulling the human along. As you might imagine, much can go sideways with this option. It is performed on leash but on a long line.

fastCAT. Another high adrenaline sport with dogs running in close proximity to one another at a natural state of high arousal, for even laid-back dogs. The dog is off leash and with this kind of adrenaline rush, this is too chancy, in my opinion, for a reactive dog.

Agility. My reasoning for avoiding agility with a reactive dog is similar to fastCAT, although agility is slightly more controlled. With agility, the dog is off leash in the agility ring and the sport is a speed sport. If your dog is only mildly dog reactive and you can modify that tendency sufficiently while focusing your dog on the agility course, then would I say you could consider this sport. I do get quite a few referrals from an agility instructor to work on the reactivity before the dog is permitted back into competition.

Flyball. Another sport that uses high adrenaline. Dogs race in teams, passing one another off leash on the course. There is no higher high for dogs obsessed with balls than this sport, and flyball is also focused on speed.

Human-Reactive Dog Considerations

Obviously, dog sports have other humans directly involved, including others competing their own dog, managing the venues, judging, assisting, set up, break down, and everything that is necessary for the sport to function appropriately. The degree of reactivity that your own dog exhibits and what their end game is with their concerns are important considerations. While a quieter sport like Rally Obedience might be a good choice for your dog, there are people in the ring with you, including the judge, of course. Rally and obedience will require your dog to be super focused on you, which may be helpful to a reactive dog.

Some sports may be done virtually. Now if your dog is simply reactive to certain humans or certain human actions and you work with a qualified rewards-based professional in advance of competing, and that professional oversees your progress, then any number of these above-named sports are possibilities.

The sports mentioned in this story are some of the more popular dog sport events, but they are only some of the options. Working with a qualified trainer can help you determine what sport may be best for your dog and still fun for you. The American Kennel Club offers a variety of event choices, and there other sports on under the AKC wing, like Barn Hunt, which is a scent sport, that might work for your dog.

When considering a sport, be very mindful of how your dog would function off leash in the ones that are performed off leash. Be truthful with yourself on this subject. Now the caveat on human reactive or simply human fearful dogs is that there is a small category of dogs who adore other dogs so much that their mere presence helps that reactive/fearful dog to function more normally with humans around. This category is the best human reactive category to compete in dog sports where many other dogs are around.

As always, if unsure, please consult with a well-qualified rewards-based dog behavior professional (not simply a trainer in the sport that you wish to compete in) to have your dog evaluated for what you want to expose your dog to. Wanting to spend time together with your dog that includes enrichment is always a good idea. Just make the right choices for both of you.

Can You Give a Dog Ibuprofen?

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You cannot give your dog ibuprofen as it is toxic to them.
It’s awful when your dog is hurting, but reaching for a human pain reliever like ibuprofen can be deadly. Credit: Liudmila Chernetska | Getty Images

As responsible pet owners, we often want to help our dogs feel better when they are in pain. Many of us have ibuprofen (Motrin or Advil), a common over-the-counter pain reliever, in our medicine cabinets and wonder if the same benefits extend to our pets. They do not.

Ibuprofen is extremely toxic to dogs and should never be given to them under any circumstances. Even small amounts can cause severe health issues, including stomach ulcers, kidney failure, and neurological damage.

Always consult your veterinarian for safe pain relief options for your pet and so you know what is causing your dog’s pain. Some natural pain relievers will work, and you can discuss what you can give your dog at home for pain relief and other methods of pain relief.

Not All NSAIDs Are Safe for Dogs

Ibuprofen belongs to a class of drugs called nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), which work by reducing inflammation, pain, and fever in humans. While certain NSAIDs are safe for dogs, such as carprofen or meloxicam, ibuprofen is not metabolized the same way by our dogs which can lead to dangerous, even fatal, consequences.

Ibuprofen can cause gastrointestinal damage by disrupting the protective lining of the stomach and intestines, leading to ulcers, internal bleeding, and even perforation of the gastrointestinal tract. Ibuprofen impacts the flow of blood to the kidneys in dogs, which can cause severe damage and potentially lead to kidney failure. In large doses, ibuprofen can also cause neurological damage and can present as tremors and seizures.

If Your Dog Ate Ibuprofen

If you suspect your dog ingested ibuprofen, act immediately.

Call your veterinarian or pet poison control. When you call, be ready to provide your dog’s weight, age, the amount ingested, and the time of ingestion. Poison hotlines are:

  • ASPCA Animal Poison Control: 888-426-4435 (fees may apply)
  • Pet Poison Helpline: 855-764-7661 ($89 consultation fee)

Seek emergency veterinary care. Take your dog to the clinic immediately. Early intervention can make a significant difference in your dog’s outcome. Do not induce vomiting without veterinary guidance. While inducing vomiting may be helpful in some poisoning cases, it is not always safe with ibuprofen ingestion. Vomiting can worsen stomach ulcers or perforations and can lead to aspiration.

Ibuprofen Toxicity Treatment

The treatment for ibuprofen poisoning in dogs will depend on the amount ingested and how quickly medical intervention occurs. Common treatments include administering activated charcoal, IV fluids to protect kidney function and help flush toxins form the body, gastroprotectants to reduce stomach ulceration, blood tests to monitor kidney and organ function, and hospitalization for supportive care, if necessary.

Ibuprofen Poison Prevention

The best way to protect your dog from ibuprofen poisoning is prevention. Keep all medications, including Tylenol, out of reach, be cautious of medications left in purses, bags, or backpacks, educate family members and guests, and never give human medications to your dog without veterinary approval.

Water Fountains for Dogs

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The best dog water fountains can help ensure your dogs is continually well hydrated.
Experts recommend encouraging your dog to drink at least 1 fluid ounce of water per pound of body weight every day. Gravity-fed water dispensers, like the one shown here, are a simple, relatively inexpensive option for providing more water for your dog. Credit: Marvin Samuel Tolentino Pineda | Getty Images

Water is necessary for all body functions, everything from regulating temperature to lubricating internal organs and joints, eliminating waste from the body, moisturizing air in the lungs, transporting oxygen to cells, maintaining a healthy skin and coat, and supporting the nervous system.

Pet water fountains offer a steady supply of fresh water and encourage drinking by attracting a dog’s attention with their sights and sounds. Some fountains filter impurities, and constantly circulating water maintains a cool temperature, which dogs enjoy. Fountains are convenient for dog owners, too, because they don’t require the frequent refilling that water bowls do.

 

 

How Much Water Should a Dog Drink Per Day?

A ratio of 1 ounce of water per pound is a sensible starting place for daily dog hydration, and more may be needed for active dogs, lactating dogs, dogs who spend time outdoors in hot weather, and dogs eating a dry (kibble) diet. To convert your dog’s weight to cups of water, divide her weight in pounds by 8 (there are 8 ounces in a cup). For example, a 40-pound dog needs at least 40 ounces (5 cups) of water daily.

Typically made of stainless steel, plastic, or ceramic materials, dog water fountains can be:

  • Gravity powered
  • Electric (with a cord that plugs into the wall)
  • Battery operated (wireless)
  • Powered by a garden hose

Pet water fountains are designed for indoor or outdoor use and come in different sizes to accommodate multiple pets and dogs of all sizes.

What Are the Simplest Dog Water Fountains?

The simplest and least expensive water fountains for dogs are fed by gravity. A reservoir is attached to a watering bowl, and as the dog removes water from the bowl, gravity refills it. The more often a dog drinks from the fountain, the faster its water is replaced.

PetSafe’s Healthy Pet Water Station comes in three sizes, small (1/2 gallon, $19.95), medium (1 gallon, $24.95), and large (2.5 gallons, $49.95). For a 10-pound cat or dog, the small size needs refilling every 6 days; for a 50-pound dog, the medium size needs refilling every other day; and for a 100-pound dog, the large size needs refilling every two days. These fountains are for indoor use and are made of BPA-free plastic. Carbon filters, sold separately, are an optional accessory.

Richell’s Elevated Gravity Water Dispenser for Dogs and Cats ($50) comes in one size (1 gallon), is for indoor use, is made of durable plastic, has a wide lid design, and is dishwasher-safe.

Hanamya’s Automatic Pet Water Dispenser ($30) comes in one size (3 liters, or 3/4 of a gallon), is for indoor use, and is made of polypropylene (plastic).

The Ruff Land Water Hole ($48.99) is a portable water jug/water dish that holds up to 1 gallon. Intended for outdoor use, the container, which is made with material recycled from the manufacturing of Ruff Land kennels, is designed to neither crack nor break if it freezes.

How to Transition Your Dog to a Dog Water Fountain

To help your dog become used to a pet water fountain, experts recommend:

  • If your dog is used to stainless steel food and water bowls, try a fountain with a stainless steel reservoir.
  • Position the fountain in a familiar area far from doors and foot traffic but near a sink faucet for convenient refilling.
  • Place a familiar water bowl next to the fountain to help with the introduction.
  • Let your dog become used to the fountain before filling it with water. Be patient and let your dog explore the fountain in his own way.
  • Say the word “drink” or “water” whenever your dog drinks from her water bowl, then later use that instruction to encourage her to drink from the fountain.

Garden Hose Dog Water Fountains

Water pressure from your house, garage, or barn powers these fountains, which hold large quantities of water and are typically easy to maintain.

The Easy-Clean Water Bowl ($34.95) comes with a 10-foot exterior hose and is designed for use outdoors with dogs, horses, or livestock. It fills automatically with a quiet fast-fill float valve and holds 32 ounces. Optional accessories include a 12-foot heat cable to prevent freezing in cold weather.

The Bear Bear Sir Aqua II Automatic Float Waterer ($32.99) attaches to an outdoor hose and holds1.8 gallons of water in its stainless steel reservoir, which refills as water is consumed. A high-density polypropylene cover protects the valve and float mechanism.

Cowboy’s Self-Cleaning Waterer ($44.99) attaches to a garden hose and, when you open the faucet, flushes debris as it replenishes water in its 20-quart pail. Designed for outdoor use, it reduces algae, mosquito larva, and stagnant water. An optional automatic timer, purchased separately, fills and flushes the bucket at chosen intervals. This waterer works best with medium- and large-breed dogs as well as horses and livestock.

If your dog loves to play with your garden hose, he’ll enjoy the Pet Fit for Life Step-Activated Dog Water Sprinkler ($44.95). This fountain attaches to your hose and all your dog has to do is step on it to produce a vertical stream that’s fun to drink and run through. The sprinkler comes with a hose splitter so you can water your garden while your dog plays.

Electric Dog Fountains

The OneIsAll Large Dog Water Fountain ($69.99), made of stainless steel, holds 7 liters of water, comes with a 1.5-meter power cord, and displays its reservoir’s water level through a built-in window. Water constantly circulates through a quiet elevated faucet and a red light indicates when the reservoir level is low. This indoor fountain uses carbon filters to keep water clean.

The Pioneer Pet Big Max Stainless Steel Drinking Fountain ($99.99) uses replaceable charcoal filters to keep 1 gallon of water ready for use. Easy to clean and dishwasher safe, its extra-large drinking area accommodates dogs of all sizes and it has an adjustable flow switch. This fountain’s electric cord is just under 6 feet long. See also Pioneer’s Durable Ceramic Big Max Fountain (on sale this month for $49.99), which also holds 1 gallon of water.

The stainless steel Mailofy Dog Water Fountain ($69.99) holds 11 liters (2.75 gallons) of water cleaned by a 4-layer filtration system, enough to last a large dog 7 to 10 days. Easy to clean and assemble, the unit’s round window shows its reservoir level and an indicator light comes on when the unit needs refilling. This fountain’s low-noise electric motor is designed for indoor use.

PetLibro’s corded electric Capsule Dog Fountain ($59.99) uses five layers of filtration to fill its 2-gallon water tank. Recommended for medium- to large-size dogs and for indoor use, the Capsule is made of ABS thermoplastic polymer.

Cordless Battery-operated Dog Water Fountains

Recommended for cats and small dogs, the PETKIT Eversweet 3 Water Fountain ($79.99) combines ultraviolet-light sterilization, three modes of water flow, stainless steel construction, 4 layers of filtration, and a Bluetooth app to remind you when to refill the container or change its filter. The system holds 1.35 liters of water and keeps 60 milliliters (2 fluid ounces) in its water tray.

The DH025 Cordless Battery Operated Pet Water Fountain ($43.37) from Dog H2O provides over 3 quarts of regularly filtered and aerated water. Made of food-grade and BPA-free materials, this fountain is powered by 4 size “D” batteries and is designed for indoor and outdoor use. For maintenance, empty and clean the fountain every 2 to 3 days, especially if outdoors. The fountain is made of polypropylene.

The  APETDOLA Wireless Dog Water Fountain ($49.99) uses a built-in rechargeable battery that runs for 2 to 4 weeks and provides 1.8 gallons of automatically filtered water. Made of ABS thermoplastic polymer, the system is made to be easy to disassemble and clean. For maintenance, clean weekly and replace the filter as needed, every 2 to 4 weeks.

Is It Worth Getting a Dog Water Fountain?

Pet water fountains are convenient, but they can have drawbacks.

On the plus side, dog water fountains:

  • Provide fresh, clean water
  • Encourage pets to drink and avoid dehydration
  • Are convenient for pets and people
  • Reduce odors by preventing the accumulation of bacteria
  • Are usually easy to clean and disinfect

The main drawbacks of dog water fountains are:

  • They can be noisy enough to bother sound-sensitive dogs.
  • Most pet water fountains require more maintenance and cleaning than a simple water bowl does. Several brands recommend changing filters every 2 to 4 weeks and disassembling and cleaning the pump every month.
  • Pet water fountains can be expensive, and fountains that use replaceable filters have added costs.
  • Water in fountains that do not constantly recycle water can become stagnant and collect hair or dirt, even when filtered.
  • Electric pet fountains must be near a power outlet and will stop working in a power outage, and battery-operated fountains require regular recharging or battery replacement so they don’t stop working.
  • When pet fountain pumps malfunction, they have to be replaced.
  • It’s hard to determine how much water a dog has consumed from a fountain, which makes monitoring water intake for health reasons difficult.

Some pet water fountains are substantially larger than a simple water bowl, so positioning the fountain may be difficult in small or multiple-pet households

Pimobendan for Dogs

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Pimobendan for dogs helps the heart pump blood more efficiently.
In most cases, the a veterinarian will place the stethoscope on the left side of the dog’s chest behind the point of the elbow to listen to the dog’s heart. Credit: MoMo Productions | Getty Images

If you’ve had a dog with heart disease, you may know pimobendan by its brand name, Vetmedin. It’s used to treat dogs experiencing congestive heart failure for a variety of different health problems. The two heart diseases that pimobendan can help treat are dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) and myxomatous mitral valve disease (MMVD).

 

 

In DCM, the chambers of the heart become stretched out and enlarged. This makes it more difficult for the heart muscles to contract and pump blood.

In MMVD, the valve that controls blood flow from the left atrium to the left ventricle in the heart is abnormal and unable to work properly. This means that blood can flow “backward” through the left side of the heart, resulting in less blood being pumped out to the body. Your veterinarian may be able to hear this backflow as a heart murmur.

What Pimobendan for Dogs Does

Pimobendan can help to manage the symptoms of DCM and MMVD. It does two primary things:

  1. It dilates blood vessels within the heart so that more blood can access the chambers
  2. It strengthens the contractions of those chambers. These two effects work together to help the heart pump blood more efficiently.

In most cases, pimobendan is not the only dog heart medication that a dog will be taking. It is frequently used with other treatments to provide maximum benefit.

In the U.S., pimobendan is available as a chewable tablet in several different sizes. You will need a prescription from your veterinarian before your dog can take this medication. Your veterinarian may recommend the brand name or allow you to purchase generic pimobendan, which can save you money.

As with any medication, pimobendan for dogs does have some potential side effects. The most common side effects include a poor appetite, diarrhea, lethargy, and difficulty breathing.

How Long Can a Dog Live on Pimobendan?

Your dog’s prognosis will depend on what underlying heart disease they are suffering from, how far it has progressed, and any other health conditions that your dog may have. As with anything, dogs who are diagnosed early in the disease process and don’t have any other health problems are the most likely to respond well to treatment and thrive.

If your dog is overall healthy and responds well to treatment, they could live for months or years while taking pimobendan and other heart medications according to your veterinarian’s instructions. But if your dog has already progressed to congestive heart failure or has other health problems, they may not respond to treatment or might progress more quickly.

Does My Dog Need Pimobendan?

Pimobendan is only appropriate for dogs with DCM and MMVD. Your veterinarian will determine if this medication is a good fit for your dog based on their diagnosis, symptoms, and overall condition.

Signs of heart disease include exercise intolerance, difficulty breathing, weakness, lethargy, and collapse. Both DCM and MMVD are more common in older dogs but can occur at any age. If you suspect your dog may have a heart condition, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian.

Caption: In most cases, the a veterinarian will place the stethoscope on the left side of the dog’s chest behind the point of the elbow to listen to the dog’s heart.

How to Kill Fleas In Your Household

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Baking soda is not a very effective flea killer on its own.
For flea infestation prevention, you need to vacuum thoroughly every day with special attention to areas where your dog may spend time. And, with infestations, use a flea killer like Knockout Spray from Virback. Credit: Juan Algar | Getty Images

If you want to break the flea lifecycle, it’s all-hands-on-deck.  These tiny jumping parasites can quickly infest your home and wreak havoc on your dog. The faster you gain control over an infestation, the better. To get this done, we looked at the methods that are most effective, both natural and chemical.

Right off the bat, we’re going to tell you that we like natural flea killers  for use in the house, when appropriate. We find Fleabusters RX for Fleas Plus Powder a top choice. But, for heavy-duty ammunition, we go to commercial methods, reaching for Knockout spray by Virbac to fully combat these unwanted guests in your house.

Remember, though, you still need to rid your dog of fleas to break the lifecycle (more on that below). While experts estimate that 95% of the flea problem is in the house with only 5% blamed on the dog, the fleas are still mainly coming in on the dog.

How to Get Rid of Fleas in the House

While each adult flea only lives a few weeks, the females stay very busy, laying approximately 50 eggs a day or about 1,000 eggs over her lifetime. Then, it takes at least three weeks for each of those 1,000 eggs to become an adult. So, let’s say half the eggs are female. So now we have 500 fleas, laying 50 eggs a day, for 20 days, which equals 500,000 flea eggs laid in your home within six weeks of that one flea entering the premises. As we said, you need to get on top of the situation immediately.

Basic steps to get rid of fleas in the house include using an integrated flea-control program that includes killing adult fleas and larvae. Start with:

  • Heavy daily vacuuming, including heavy pet traffic areas and underneath furniture and beds (flea larvae migrate to dark areas). Empty the vacuum bag or canister every time you vacuum.
  • Keep your car vacuumed if you transport your pets.
  • Regularly wash bedding in hot water.
  • Consider using an insecticide (spray or fogger, but sprays are easier to control) on your carpets and upholstered furniture; choose a spray that kills both adult fleas and pre-adult fleas and larvae.  Foggers release insecticide into the air to eliminate fleas throughout your home. They are fast-acting and effective for large areas but can be toxic to humans and pets, requiring you to temporarily evacuate your home and be sure it can’t get to any food. Check the EPA website, which offers precautions.
  • Don’t forget your yard. A yard that is sunny, dry, and cut short is less attractive to fleas than a yard that is heavily shaded and moist. If you have a shady, damp yard, use an outside area treatment to knock down the fleas.

Note: For severe or persistent infestations, consider contacting a professional pest control service. They have the expertise and specialized equipment to effectively eliminate fleas from your home.

Does Diatomaceous Earth Kill Fleas?

You don’t have to rely on chemicals to kills fleas. Diatomaceous earth, a naturally occurring substance derived from the fossilized remains of diatoms (microscopic, single-celled algae), is one option. Diatoms have hard, silica-based cell walls that, when fossilized, form a fine powder with sharp, microscopic edges. When applied to areas where fleas are present, these sharp edges can puncture the fleas’ exoskeletons, leading to dehydration and death.

Typical questions about using diatomaceous earth are usually:

  • Is diatomaceous earth safe for dogs? Food-grade diatomaceous earth is generally considered safe for dogs. However, it can irritate their eyes, nose, and mouth, so don’t let your dog inhale or ingest it. You can purchase food-grade diatomaceous earth at online retailers like Amazon and Chewy, as well as home improvement, feed, and garden stores. Avoid pool-grade diatomaceous earth, as it may contain impurities harmful to dogs and other animals.
  • How long should you leave it on the carpet? Diatomaceous earth works best when left undisturbed for at least a week, allowing fleas time to encounter it. Vacuum regularly to remove dead fleas and debris.
  • How do you spread it? Sprinkle diatomaceous earth liberally on carpets, rugs, furniture, and other areas where fleas may hide, paying special attention to cracks and crevices.
  • Can diatomaceous earth kill fleas in the yard? Yes, diatomaceous earth can be used in yards. Focus especially on cool, shady areas. Remember fleas love humidity and hate direct sunlight.

Does Baking Soda Kill Fleas?

Baking soda is another purported home remedy for fleas. While it may dehydrate fleas to some extent, it’s not as effective as diatomaceous earth or chemical methods and may take days or even weeks to work. Similarly, salt water might drown some fleas, and dry salt may dehydrate them, but neither are practical or effective methods for treating infestations.

Other myths according to Holistic Vet Blend include using garlic and Brewer’s yeast as a flea repellent. No scientific evidence supports its effectiveness, according to the site’s founder, Dody Tyneway Robi, DVM

Flea Prevention Is Key

Once you’ve eliminated the infestation, you need to be diligent about preventing them from returning, says the CDC:

  • Regularly vacuum and clean pet bedding. Fleas thrive in warm, humid environments, finding refuge in carpets, bedding, and pet areas.
  • Mow your yard frequently, avoid overwatering, and remove debris that provides shade and moisture. Fleas cannot tolerate direct sunlight.
  • Discourage stray animals from hanging out in your yard.
  • Prevent your dog from contacting wild animals.
  • Apply appropriate flea preventatives to your pets.

Your Flea Options for Dogs

Applying a flea product to your dog is much simpler than getting fleas out of your house. If you prefer the simplicity of commercial products, consider these flea-prevention options:

Topical Treatments: Applied directly to the skin at the back of the neck, these spot-on treatments contain insecticides that kill adult fleas.

Pros: Easy to apply and effective against adult fleas.

Cons: May not eliminate eggs or larvae, and some pets may experience adverse reactions.

Flea Collars: These collars release insecticides gradually to repel and kill fleas.

Pros: Provide long-lasting protection and are convenient.

Cons: May be less effective than topical treatments, and some pets may develop allergies.

 Oral Medications: These usually once-a-month medications kill fleas within your pet’s digestive system.

Pros: Effective against all flea life stages.

Cons: Can be more expensive and may have side effects.

The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) emphasizes that flea protection is not one-size-fits-all prospect. Factors like your dog’s age, species, breed, lifestyle, health status, and current medications affect the type and dose of product you choose.

The AVMA recommends working with your veterinarian to choose the best option and suggests asking them these questions:

  • What parasites does this product protect against?
  • How often should I use/apply the product?
  • How long will it take for the product to work?
  • If I see a flea on my dog, does that mean it’s not working?
  • What should I do if my dog reacts to the product?
  • Is there a need for more than one product?
  • How should I apply multiple products on my dog?

The AVMA advises caution when considering flea/tick treatment for very young and very old dogs. Use a flea comb on puppies too young for flea/tick products. Some products are unsuitable for very old pets, and certain breeds are sensitive to ingredients that can make them extremely ill.

Flea preventives and some medications can interact, causing unwanted side effects, toxicities, or ineffective doses. Inform your veterinarian of all your pet’s medications when discussing flea prevention options.

Life with a Blind Dog

Caring for a blind dog or a dog who goes blind with age can be a challenge.
As your dog ages, watch for changes to eye shape and color that may indicate vision loss. Prompt vet attention can make a difference for many conditions. Credit: Elizabeth Fernandez | Getty Images

When we were in Europe last fall, we noticed that Sparkles was walking into an awful lot of glass doors and sometimes walls. She was also less fearless about going down stairs, something that never bothered her previously. We’ve noticed that she seems to startle more frequently, at what appears to be nothing. And like our late Pomeranian-Chihuahua mix, Gemma, she sometimes has problems following our hand movements when we’re setting down her food bowl or handing out treats. Sparkles will be 13 years old in April, so it’s not really a surprise that her eyesight is starting to go.

If dogs live long enough—and sometimes even when they’re young—at some point they’re probably going to experience vision loss. The good news is that a blind dog can usually adjust well to their new condition, ramping up use of smell and hearing and sometimes even whiskers to navigate their environment. There are ways you can help them, too.

Seeing What’s Going On

Dogs are so adept at using their other senses to make their way through their surroundings that it can take some time to notice that their eyesight is failing. Clues on how to tell if your dog is having vision problems or may have eye disease include all of the behaviors we noticed with Sparkles and Gemma, as well as physical changes:

  • Redness
  • Discharge
  • Cloudiness or opacity in the lens of the eye
  • Change in eye color
  • Squinting and tearing
  • Sensitivity to light
  • Pawing at the eye
  • A swollen, crusty, or itchy eyelid
  • An unusually hard or soft eye
  • A bulging or sunken eye

Not all of these signs are caused by straightforward vision loss due to aging. Glaucoma—painful increased pressure within the eye—can cause blindness within 48 hours if it isn’t recognized and treated right away. Injuries, infection, or eye diseases like glaucoma can result in enucleation—removal of one or both eyes.

If you think your dog is going blind, take her to the veterinarian for an exam to confirm the diagnosis and make sure it’s not caused by a treatable condition such as high blood pressure or diabetes. Medication or surgery, such as cataract removal, can often help, especially if the problem is diagnosed early.

Helping Dogs Adjust to Blindness

Often, dogs adjust to vision loss before we notice it has happened, especially if blindness occurs gradually. When they lose vision rapidly, however, it may take them a few weeks to become accustomed to their new situation. Fortunately, their keen senses of smell and hearing aid them as vision fades. Whiskers are packed with sensitive touch receptors that help dogs navigate their environment, aiding in measuring distance and detecting faint vibrations caused by air movement. Environmental management, training, and even an assist from other pets can help as well.

Routine rules. Dogs are creatures of habit. Keeping things the same will allow them to make their way around confidently, whether it’s in the home or outdoors. Some tips for helping blind dogs navigate include:

  • Avoid moving furniture if possible. When you must, try marking it at nose level with a scent aid such as perfume or an essential oil to grab your dog’s olfactory attention.
  • Pick up items off the floor so they’re not in the way.
  • Cushioning on sharp edges can help to prevent startling bumps or bruises until your dog gets used to the new setup.
  • Use a baby gate to keep your dog away from the stairs until you’re sure they can navigate them safely.
  • Keep food and water bowls in the same place. They can serve as an anchor point. If your dog seems lost in the house, take her to the feeding area. That can help to reorient her.
  • At first, stick to walking routes your dog knows well. The familiar scents along the way will help guide her, and she’ll likely already know about obstacles such as curbs or steps.

Use your voice. In the house or on a walk, talk to your dog so they can tell where you are.

Pay attention to your dog’s voice. Is she barking more often? It may be a way of saying “Hey, where are you?” This is another instance where talking to her can help her to feel more secure, especially if vision loss occurred suddenly.

Training helps dogs to gain and maintain confidence. Loss of sight doesn’t have to mean loss of training. Using a clicker and treats or verbal praise are great ways to guide and reward dogs who can’t see. For instance, teach verbal cues such as “step up” or “step down” for use at curbs or stairs. The mental stimulation of training is also important for maintaining cognitive health, especially as dogs age.

Guide pets? There are lots of heartwarming anecdotes, news stories, Insta posts, and YouTube videos of animals with vision loss who have assistants in the form of other dogs or cats in the home. Sighted pets can help to redirect them if they lose their way or to find their food bowl, toys or bed. Sometimes they bark or meow to get the blind dog back on track.

Eye Loss in Dogs

Is it cruel to keep a blind dog? While for humans, loss of eyesight is considered a tragedy, dogs are not so reliant on vision since they don’t drive or read. A dog going blind can adapt extremely well to the change, especially if blindness occurs gradually. Even if a dog needs to have one or both eyes removed, they generally adjust rapidly. They don’t have preconceived ideas about what it means to lose an eye or worries about how they’ll manage. They just get on with it.

Reasons Why Your Dog is Not Drinking Water

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When your dog is not drinking water there may be several reasons why.
It is important to make sure your dog always has fresh, clean water. If a dog seems healthy but still isn’t drinking enough water, make sure the water source is in an easily accessible spot she feels comfortable going to. Credit: alex_ugalek | Getty Images

There are three general reasons why your dog might not be drinking water: she doesn’t feel good, the available water sources aren’t great, or she is getting water somewhere other than her water bowl.

It is easy to monitor your dog’s water intake, and with a little extra consideration you can figure out if your dog is not drinking enough and a possible reason why.

 

 

How Much Water Dogs Need Daily

How much water your dog needs daily will depend on her size, activity level, age, and health status, as well as the environmental conditions and what she is eating. All of these factors are pretty intuitive:

  • Larger dogs need more water.
  • Active dogs need more water.
  • If your dog has an illness that is causing her to vomit, have diarrhea, or pee a lot, she will need more water.
  • If it is very warm and/or dry, your dog will need more water.
  • If your dog gets a lot of moisture in her meals, she will need less water.

For a good rule of thumb, your dog should drink one ounce of water per pound of body weight each day. For example, a 50-pound dog should drink 50 ounces of water (about one and a half liters).

You can track your dog’s water intake by measuring how much water is in all of her bowls at the start of the day and then seeing what is left at the end of the day. For a more general sense of how much your dog is drinking, keep track of how often you refill her bowls.

Why Your Dog is Not Drinking Water

The three general categories for why your dog might not be drinking water are that she isn’t feeling well, there isn’t quality water available, or she is getting her hydration elsewhere.

Causes related to your dog’s health and well-being:

If your dog doesn’t feel well, regardless of the exact reason, her physical discomfort or emotional distress may override her desire to drink.

Causes related to water sources:

  • Dirty water bowl
  • Contaminated water
  • Water bowl is in an area that your dog doesn’t like, such as at the top of a scary staircase, on slippery flooring, or next to a loud appliance.
  • Your dog can’t regularly access the water bowl due to closed doors or baby gates.
  • Your dog doesn’t like the material of the bowl (plastic and metal can sometimes give water a funny taste).

Many dogs are perfectly willing to drink out of a slimy or dirty bowl, but others are very particular about water quality. Clean water is critical for your dog’s health, so it is important to clean water bowls frequently and provide fresh water.

Other places dogs may get water/moisture:

  • Canned food
  • Water added to the regular food during meals
  • Toilets
  • Pools, streams, or ponds outside

If your dog is getting water somewhere other than her designated water bowl(s), she won’t drink as much. If your dog appears perfectly happy and healthy and has fresh clean water available, observe her throughout the day. You may find that she is getting her water elsewhere.

Why is My Dog Not Drinking Water but Eating?

Many dogs are highly food motivated and will eat even if they are extremely ill or in pain. Water generally isn’t quite as exciting for our canine friends. Your dog also may just not be thirsty.

Why is My Dog Not Drinking Water but Peeing?

Even when your dog isn’t drinking, her body is still producing waste products and flushing them out in urine. Unfortunately, this continued expulsion of water exacerbates dehydration if your dog is not drinking enough.

Signs a Dog Isn’t Getting Enough Water

Dehydration is potentially dangerous and may require veterinary intervention. Signs of dehydration include:

  • Lethargy
  • Tacky or dry gums
  • Excessive drooling
  • Poor skin elasticity (if you lift up the skin on your dog’s back, it should snap back into place quickly.)
  • Thick saliva
  • Poor appetite
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Excessive panting
  • Sunken eyes

Vomiting and diarrhea at the same time is an emergency and requires immediate action. Lethargy, tacky gums, sunken eyes, and poor skin elasticity should be addressed promptly, but may be able to wait for regular business hours.

Excessive urination is also a cause for concern and should trigger a vet visit.

Ways to Rehydrate Your Dog

If you are concerned that your dog is dehydrated, start by moving her to a shady or indoor area with good airflow and offer clean, fresh water. You can entice your dog to drink by adding a small amount of low sodium broth to the bowl.

Another trick to encourage your dog to drink is to wet your fingers and then place them on your dog’s tongue. Your dog may be offended at first but sometimes getting that little bit of moisture on the tongue can trigger their desire to drink and makes them realize they are thirsty.

You can also place an ice cube on your dog’s tongue and let it melt (or let her chomp it).

It is possible to “force-feed” water, but this should be done extremely carefully. Add fresh water to a syringe, water bottle, or clean spray bottle. Angle your dog’s head slightly downward and point the syringe or bottle toward your dog’s nose, away from the body. Then squirt small amounts onto the tongue. Taking these precautions prevents your dog from choking or getting water into her trachea and lungs. If she is not swallowing, stop immediately.

If your dog is showing multiple signs of dehydration, she may require veterinary care. Call your veterinarian and describe the symptoms you are seeing, plus what your dog was doing leading up to the onset of symptoms.

At the vet’s office your dog will receive fluid therapy to restore her hydration. Your vet will also do an exam and possibly some diagnostic tests to determine why your dog is dehydrated and any underlying health issues that may require treatment.

Mild cases of dehydration generally get subcutaneous fluids under the skin. A vet or technician will insert a large needle under your dog’s skin and then instill a large amount of fluids. This method is quick and easy, and most dogs tolerate it very well. Your dog will have a temporary bump where the fluids are given, but the liquid will be absorbed into the body over the next few hours.

More severe dehydration may require intravenous (IV) fluids. For this, your dog will have a catheter placed and then have fluids instilled directly into the vein. Your dog will likely stay in the hospital for several hours or overnight so that she can receive a steady flow of fluids over a long period of time. Depending on any other symptoms your dog has, your vet may add electrolytes, vitamins, or medications to the fluids.

How to Get a Dog to Drink More

There are many things you can do at home to encourage your dog to drink more:

  • Clean all water bowls regularly.
  • Have water available throughout the house and in your dog’s crate—hanging buckets are perfect to prevent spillage in crates and pens.
  • Try bowls made of different materials, such as metal, ceramic, or BPA-free plastic.
  • Add water to your dog’s meals.
  • Keep a fresh bucket or bowl of water in the yard.
  • Try a pet fountain to see if your dog likes running water.
  • Add a small amount of low-sodium broth to water bowls for flavor and aroma.
  • Teach your dog to drink on command by praising and rewarding when she drinks.
  • Take drink breaks during summer play sessions.
  • Put ice cubes in her bowls for added fun.
  • Keep all toilet covers down so your dog isn’t drinking out of the toilet.

Must Carry Treats

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A dog treat pouch is a daily wear item for dog trainers, and an essential tool for dog owners.
I’m currently using a treat pouch that costs more than $60! It’s a nutty price, but I love the features it offers. I will write a review of it for WDJ soon.

Nearly 20 years ago, a new friend asked me, “Do you always wear one of those?” She was referring to the treat pouch, aka a “bait bag,” that I wore whenever we walked our dogs together. She wasn’t being critical; she was honestly curious. She hadn’t yet met a fan of positive reinforcement-based training. Neither had she trained her dogs with any particular goal or intention in mind! In fact, she was astounded when I started luring her chubby little senior Chihuahua into “sit” and “down” positions. She actually told me that she didn’t know that you could train a very small dog!

It didn’t take her long to buy a treat pouch of her own and to wear it whenever she takes her dogs for a walk with or without me—and today, her even smaller dog knows dozens of tricks and good-manners behaviors.

If I’m going on a walk with dogs (my dogs or anyone else’s!) I pretty much always bring a bait bag and treats along—though I am also prone to putting freeze-dried treats in my coat, vest, and/or pants pockets, and have lost more than a few pockets and garments that way. (At my age, I tend to throw off layers suddenly and abandon them; my female peers will understand. I forget that my foster dogs don’t have the restraint or habituation that my polite dogs have—and if I’ve left the room, or left dogs in my car, I often return to find that the pockets of that particular garment have been chewed through.)

A chewed through pocket can be a hazard if you carry your dog treats in your pockets.
This jacket actually has no working pockets; it was the victim of a foster dog from a couple of years ago. You’d think I’d learn, but my newest jacket lost a pocket to my most recent foster dog.

I use treats on off-leash walks to reward and reinforce my dogs for “checking in”—any time they are running ahead and, without prompting, turn around and come back toward me. If I have to call them at any time, whether to bring them closer to me or to move them farther from something I want them to avoid, I almost always reward them very generously. This keeps their recalls very sharp and prompt; no lingering over a cow patty or goose poop!

I am also quite generous with treats on leashed walks; I reward any extended bit of relaxed, loose-leash walking to ensure I get lots more of it! If one of my dogs shows concern or too much interest in something I would rather they ignore or pass quietly, I cue them with “Off!” and reward them for trusting me with their lack of further attention to that thing.

I also like to have treats with me in case I need to make friends with and catch—or distract and redirect—a loose dog that approaches me and my dogs. More than once, I’ve thrown a handful of treats right in the face of a loose dog who was coming in hot directly at me and my leashed dogs; most dogs will stop and blink for a moment before realizing they smell something delicious, and they will usually switch from being interested in your dogs to hunting for the treats. It’s a great technique for taking the wind out of their sails and giving you a little time and space to retreat with your dogs.

Far more of my monthly budget goes toward dog treats than treats for myself—mostly because I buy mostly high-quality, freeze-dried treats that are easy to store, don’t go bad in even double the amount of time I tend to use them, and aren’t greasy (and so don’t stain clothing). But it’s an investment in both the training and my relationship with my dogs that I wouldn’t change for anything.

Can I walk my dogs, on or off leash, without treats? Of course! And their behavior is still quite good. But I wouldn’t expect them to work every day without one of the most meaningful reinforcements available to me; that’s just taking their good behavior for granted, and I won’t do that to anyone I love.

Why Do Dogs Run Away?

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Why do dogs run away? I can be from excitement and a desire to play.
If your dog refuses to be caught, chasing him will never work. Instead, reverse the game, and get him to run with you. Credit: Alexsandar Nakic | Getty Images

If you call your dog and she refuses to come to you, you have a potentially dangerous situation, if she is not in a safe enclosed area. Stay calm. Do not chase her. You cannot outrun her, and any movement toward her may be perceived as engaging in a game of chase. Screaming at her or otherwise terrorizing her will only make things worse. Do not actively follow her but do try to keep an eye on her.

Just the act of following her as she strolls along just out of reach may make her think you’re on an adventure together and she’s just leading the way, so follow her, but lead off a bit in a different direction. Is she slyly checking back to be sure you’re still with her? Yup. You’re on a doggy adventure, and you need to gain control.

Run in the Opposite Direction

If your dog runs when you approach her, turn and run in the opposite direction, frequently glancing back at her and calling her name periodically. Run toward a safe place, preferably into a fenced yard or building. Engage her in a happy voice with relaxed mannerisms. Stop if you need to and act playful, encouraging her to come play with you. Your goal is to make your dog decide that being with you is way more fun than running off on her own.

You’re trying to change the dynamics of the game, so that she will try to catch you. When she catches up to you, you will have your leash ready but do NOT grab her or pounce on her. If you miss, she will bolt again, and you will have made that game of chase more fun for her. Just continue on together for a few steps.

When Your Dog Catches Up

As your dog is walking with you, sit down on the ground and encourage her to move closer to you. Don’t reach for her (the chase game is still going on). Instead, offer her a treat or three for coming to you—always have treats in your pocket when you’re with your dog!—and pet her. When she’s focused on you and looking for the next treat, offer it, and gently snap on the leash while she’s enjoying treat.

Do NOT at any point attempt to correct or reprimand her. Reward her immensely for engaging with you. At this point, your dog has forgotten about the chase “game,” so if you are angry with her now, she will assume it’s because she gave in and came to you.

Scared Dog Running Away

Remember that it’s possible that your dog may be running away from something scary, like a siren or a tarp blowing in the wind. In that case, she will probably only run a short way, then turn around and look at the threatening object. That’s your chance to run in a neutral direction, at an angle that’s away from both her and the scary thing and encourage her to follow you. And, again, this is all a reminder that you need a solid recall cue.

So, what’s your next step? Train a proper recall, which is detailed in an article by Whole Dog Journal Executive Editor Kate O’Connor.

Managing Idiopathic Epilepsy in Dogs

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Idiopathic epilepsy in dogs is a difficult but manageable condition.
Managing idiopathic epilepsy in dogs can be challenging but there are a number of therapies available. Credit: THEPALMER | Getty Images

Seizures in dogs can have several different triggers or causes. When no trigger or cause for seizure activity is found, then a dog is presumed to have idiopathic epilepsy.

 

 

 

Diagnosing Idiopathic Epilepsy in Dogs

Idiopathic epilepsy affects young dogs between the ages of six months and six years. As the name implies, the cause of idiopathic epilepsy is unknown. It is a diagnosis of exclusion, meaning that other causes of seizures must be ruled out before making this diagnosis.

Any breed of dog can be affected by idiopathic epilepsy. However, it is diagnosed more often in Schnauzers, Collies, Basset Hounds, Cocker Spaniels, Labrador Retrievers, and Golden Retrievers.

If your dog is experiencing seizures, have your dog assessed by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Your veterinarian will want to complete blood work, a urinalysis, and x-rays of the chest and abdomen. She may also want to check your dog’s blood pressure and order additional tests based on what she finds on the initial diagnostics. Your dog may be referred to a veterinary neurologist for an MRI of his brain if a cause for his seizures cannot be found.

When To See a Veterinary Neurologist

Your veterinarian may recommend a consultation with a veterinary neurologist if initial diagnostics do not reveal an underlying cause of your dog’s seizures. Most people think of an expensive consultation when they hear the words “veterinary specialist.” But having a veterinarian that specializes in neurology on your team can make a huge difference in your dog’s seizure management.

A consultation with a veterinary neurologist typically costs between $200 and $300. During this consultation, your dog’s complete health and seizure history will be reviewed. Your dog will receive a complete neurologic examination. An MRI and obtaining a sample of cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) for tests may be recommended.

You do not have to follow through with completing advanced diagnostics if they are cost prohibitive. You and your dog will still benefit from advice provided by the veterinary neurologist. Veterinary neurologists are specialists who have completed an internship and residency in neurology and are board-certified in their field. They keep up to date on the latest research and advancements in treating idiopathic epilepsy.

You and your veterinarian may consult with your veterinary neurologist for up to one year following the initial consultation. Most veterinary neurologists are available by email or by phone to answer questions about managing your dog’s seizures. They can provide advice on anticonvulsant dose adjustments, adding anticonvulsants, and alternative therapies that may help your dog live a better quality of life.

Keeping your veterinary neurologist a part of your dog’s medical team will require an annual recheck examination. This maintains a valid veterinary-client-patient relationship (VCPR) and enables you and your veterinarian to continue seeking advice on how to manage your dog’s seizures.

Anticonvulsant Medications for Dogs

Idiopathic epilepsy is often managed with one or more anticonvulsant medications. These medications are given for the remainder of a dog’s life and can have long-term side effects. The decision to start anticonvulsants should be made according to your dog’s specific situation.

You should consider starting your dog on an anticonvulsant if he meets one or more of the following criteria:

  • He is having cluster seizures. This is two or more seizures in a 24-hour period.
  • He has more than one seizure per month.
  • He is having seizures that last five minutes or longer.
  • His seizures are violent and there is danger that he may hurt himself during a seizure.
  • He is a breed that is known to have seizures that are difficult to manage. These breeds include German Shepherds, Border Collies, Irish Setters, Golden Retrievers, Siberian Huskies, Keeshonds, and Saint Bernards.

Dogs that need their idiopathic epilepsy medically managed will be started on one of four primary anticonvulsants: phenobarbital, zonisamide, potassium bromide, or levetiracetam. Your veterinarian may recommend baseline blood work to check your dog’s liver enzymes, kidney values, and thyroid function before starting an anticonvulsant. A complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel should be completed at least every six months while taking any anticonvulsants.

There is no right or wrong primary anticonvulsant to start with for managing seizures in dogs. Factors that may influence medication selection include cost, dosing frequency, dosage form (such as liquid, capsule, or tablet), size available for your dog’s weight and your dog’s tolerance of side effects. Your veterinarian’s experience and comfort level with each anticonvulsant may also influence the drug selection.

Your veterinarian will recommend obtaining your dog’s therapeutic level of the anticonvulsant selected after he has started medication therapy. This is a blood test that examines the concentration of anticonvulsant in your dog’s bloodstream. The timing and frequency of testing will vary depending on the medication selected and how well-managed your dog’s seizures have become.

Phenobarbital

Phenobarbital has the longest history of use amongst the selection of anticonvulsants. It is typically administered twice a day although once a day dosing may be sufficient to achieve seizure control in some dogs. Phenobarbital is a controlled substance that is available as a tablet. It must be filled by your dog’s veterinary hospital or be accompanied by a written prescription if filled by an outside pharmacy.

Side effects of phenobarbital include sedation, increased thirst and urination, and ataxia (wobbly gait). These side effects are typically transient and spontaneously resolve within the first 1-2 weeks of starting phenobarbital. There are some dogs for whom these side effects may not resolve unless phenobarbital is discontinued.

Dogs receiving high doses of phenobarbital are at increased risk of developing liver damage. Other side effects of phenobarbital are rare but serious. These include a low platelet count, a low white blood cell count, and anemia (low number of red blood cells). Development of hepatocutaneous syndrome is a rare reported side of phenobarbital.

Your dog’s phenobarbital therapeutic level should be checked two weeks after starting this medication. It should also be checked two weeks after any change in your dog’s phenobarbital dose. The phenobarbital level in your dog should be kept below 35 mcg/mL (micrograms per milliliter) to minimize the risk of liver damage.

Zonisamide

Zonisamide is a newer anticonvulsant that has grown in popularity as an initial drug for managing idiopathic epilepsy in dogs. This medication is administered twice a day. It is only available as a capsule.

Side effects of zonisamide include sedation, ataxia, and decreased appetite. These side effects are typically transient and spontaneously resolve within the first 1-2 weeks of starting zonisamide.

Other potential side effects of zonisamide are rare but serious. These include a low platelet count, a low white blood cell count, and anemia. Liver and kidney damage may also occur.

Your dog’s zonisamide therapeutic level should be checked two weeks after starting this medication. It should also be checked two weeks after any change in your dog’s zonisamide dose.

Potassium Bromide

Potassium bromide was the first anticonvulsant prescribed for people and dates back to 1857. It is available as a flavored chewable tablet and as a flavored oral solution for dogs. This medication can be administered once a day.

It can take up to three months for potassium bromide to reach a therapeutic level in your dog when using a standard daily dose. Your veterinarian may prescribe an initial loading dose regimen for your dog to achieve a therapeutic level in a shorter period of time.

Side effects of potassium bromide include increased appetite, increased thirst and urination, weight gain, sedation, and vomiting. These side effects are typically transient and spontaneously resolve within the first 60 days of starting potassium bromide. Long-term side effects may include increased risk of developing pancreatitis or megaesophagus. Rarely, dogs may experience increased aggression when taking potassium bromide.

Potassium bromide is not metabolized in a dog’s body and is excreted unchanged in the urine. This medication should be used cautiously in dogs with kidney disease. Taking potassium bromide may complicate management of diseases that alter electrolyte balance, such as gastroenteritis and hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease). Talk to your veterinarian before making changes to your dog’s diet while taking potassium bromide. Avoid giving your dog salty foods while taking this medication.

Your dog’s potassium bromide therapeutic level should be checked at three weeks and at three months after starting this medication. Dogs that have received a loading dose of potassium bromide should also have their therapeutic level checked the day after receiving the last loading dose. Comparison of therapeutic levels the day after the last loading dose has been administered and at the three-week mark may predict what your dog’s therapeutic level will be after three months of therapy.

Levetiracetam (Keppra)

Levetiracetam (more commonly known by its brand name, Keppra) is an anticonvulsant that is well-tolerated in dogs and has relatively few side effects. Keppra may protect the brain from damage that can be caused by seizure activity.

Keppra is available as a tablet. Tablets are available in two forms—standard release and extended release. Standard release tablets are administered three times a day. Extended release tablets are administered twice a day. Extended release tablets have a special coating that slows absorption of the drug in the gastrointestinal tract. These tablets cannot be crushed, split, or chewed.

Side effects of Keppra are mild and may include sedation, ataxia, and vomiting. These side effects—if they occur—typically resolve after lowering the dose of Keppra. Keppra has a wide margin of safety in dogs and monitoring of therapeutic levels is not necessary.

Using Multiple Anticonvulsants for Dogs

Most dogs will experience a decrease in the frequency and duration of seizures after starting one of these four primary anticonvulsants. Some dogs may need to take two or more primary anticonvulsants to achieve control of their seizures.

Phenobarbital alters the metabolism of zonisamide and Keppra. Dogs that are taking phenobarbital with zonisamide or Keppra will need to be prescribed a higher dose of these medications.

Adjunctive Anticonvulsants

Refractory epilepsy is when a dog’s seizures are not well-managed on two or more primary anticonvulsants. Adding an adjunctive anticonvulsant may help these dogs achieve better control of their seizures. Adjunctive anticonvulsants include gabapentin, pregabalin, felbamate, topiramate, and clonazepam.

Gabapentin and Pregabalin

Gabapentin and pregabalin have a similar mechanism of action on nerve synapses in the brain. These medications are also used for their analgesic and anxiolytic (anti-anxiety) effects in dogs. Side effects are few and may include sedation and ataxia. These medications are given two to three times daily. Monitoring of therapeutic levels is not necessary.

Gabapentin is available as a tablet, capsule, and an oral solution. Some gabapentin oral solutions contain xylitol; these should not be given to dogs. Pregabalin is a controlled substance that is available as a capsule and an oral solution. It must be filled by your dog’s veterinary hospital or be accompanied by a written prescription if filled by an outside pharmacy.

Felbamate

Felbamate has been shown to be an effective adjunctive anticonvulsant in some dogs that have refractory epilepsy. Side effects are rare and include liver damage, generalized tremors, and keratoconjunctivitis sicca (dry eye). Other rare side effects include a low platelet count, low white blood cell count, and anemia (low number of red blood cells).

Felbamate is available as a tablet and an oral solution. This medication is given three times a day. Taking felbamate with phenobarbital may increase the concentration of phenobarbital in your dog’s blood. Your dog should have a complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel checked every six months while taking felbamate.

Topiramate

Topiramate may also help dogs with refractory epilepsy achieve better control of their seizures. Side effects include sedation, ataxia, and weight loss. Topiramate should be started at the low end of the dosing range and slowly increased to effect.

Topiramate is available as a tablet and an oral suspension. This medication is given three times a day. A chemistry panel should be completed every six months while taking topiramate.

Clonazepam

Clonazepam may be an effective adjunctive anticonvulsant for dogs that are already taking phenobarbital. Dogs may develop diarrhea when first starting this medication. Starting clonazepam at a low dose once a day and gradually increasing the dose may minimize the risk of developing diarrhea.

Clonazepam is available only as a tablet. This medication is given two to three times a day. Dogs may experience elevated liver enzymes after taking clonazepam for more than a few months. A chemistry panel should be completed every three to six months while taking clonazepam.

Pulse-Therapy for Cluster Seizures in Dogs

Dogs with idiopathic epilepsy may suddenly experience cluster seizures, even if their seizures are otherwise well-managed with one or more anticonvulsants. Cluster seizures are defined as having two or more seizures in a 24-hour period. Administering a pulse-therapy anticonvulsant may prevent further seizures in the cluster period.

Pulse-therapy anticonvulsants include clorazepate and Keppra. Either medication can be started after a dog begins experiencing cluster seizures. It is given three times a day until the dog has remained seizure-free for 24-48 hours. The typical length of treatment with a pulse-therapy anticonvulsant is three days.

Status Epilepticus and Rescue Anticonvulsants

Dogs that are experiencing a condition called status epilepticus may require administration of a rescue anticonvulsant. Status epilepticus is defined as:

  • Having a seizure that lasts longer than five minutes
  • One or more seizures in a five-minute period with no return to normal consciousness between seizures

Status epilepticus can quickly become a life-threatening condition. Dogs will experience the following symptoms in the first 30 minutes of status epilepticus:

  • Increased heart rate and blood pressure
  • Decreased oxygen delivery to vital organs
  • Increased body temperature, sometimes exceeding 108°F (normal temperature range for dogs is 99°F to 102.5°F)

The following symptoms may develop if status epilepticus continues for more than 30 minutes:

  • Neurogenic pulmonary edema. This is when fluid accumulates within lung tissue.
  • Heart muscle damage. This impairs the heart’s ability to contract and push blood to vital organs.
  • Acute kidney injury followed by acute renal failure.

Administration of a rescue anticonvulsant may interrupt status epilepticus but will likely not resolve it. Seek immediate veterinary care if your dog is experiencing status epilepticus.

Rescue anticonvulsants include diazepam and midazolam. Diazepam is administered rectally using a red rubber catheter. Midazolam is administered intranasally (in your dog’s nostril) using a special device called an atomizer. An atomizer is a small plastic device that converts liquid medication into a fine mist. The atomizer is attached to the end of a syringe containing a dose of midazolam and inserted into your dog’s nostril. Pushing the plunger on the end of the syringe delivers the midazolam dose to your dog.

Intranasal midazolam typically takes about one minute to stop your dog’s seizure. Rectal diazepam may take 3-5 minutes to stop seizure activity. Dogs that are experiencing status epilepticus may resume having seizures within 10 to 20 minutes. The most common side effects of diazepam and midazolam are sedation and ataxia.

Alternative Therapies for Managing Seizures in Dogs

Alternative therapies may help manage seizures in dogs already receiving one or more anticonvulsants. These therapies include cannabidiol (CBD), acupuncture, and a prescription neurologic diet.

Purina ProPlan Veterinary Diet NeuroCare (Purina NC diet) is a prescription diet specifically formulated to help reduce the frequency of seizures in dogs with idiopathic epilepsy. The component of the diet responsible for this phenomenon is medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil. The Purina NC diet also includes several antioxidants to support overall brain health. Learn more at https://vetcenter.purina.es/neurocare/pdf/multicentrico.pdf.

CBD has recently been shown to reduce seizure frequency in epileptic dogs with refractory seizures. Dogs included in the research study published in the Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine were on at least one anticonvulsant and having at least two seizures a month. Side effects of CBD include elevated liver enzymes, vomiting, and decreased appetite. Learn more at https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37889215/.

Navigating the realm of CBD supplements for dogs can be overwhelming. CBD products are not federally regulated and may include variable concentrations of CBD content or have contaminants, including heavy metals and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). There is also little known about the appropriate therapeutic doses of CBD in dogs. Talk to your veterinarian about adding CBD to your dog’s anticonvulsant therapy before purchasing any CBD product.

Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine (TCVM) may be of benefit to some epileptic dogs suffering from refractory seizures. TCVM includes acupuncture and Chinese herbal supplements. Veterinary acupuncture is a specialized field. Ask your veterinarian about a referral to a veterinary acupuncturist who is skilled in helping dogs with idiopathic epilepsy.

Idiopathic epilepsy in dogs can be a challenging condition to manage. Thankfully, there are several therapeutic options available for epileptic dogs. Talk to your veterinarian about tailoring therapies to your dog’s specific needs.

How to Stop a Dog From Barking

The first step in stopping your dog from barking is to figure out why they're working.
From boredom to sounding the alarm, dogs typically bark for a reason. Determining what they’re responding to is the first step toward stopping barking sessions that go on too long. Credit: paula sierra | Getty Images

Barking can be incredibly endearing or amazingly annoying. Some dogs bark the entire way around an agility course. Other dogs bark every time someone rings the doorbell. There are many types of dog barks, and some are more problematic than others.

If you find yourself with a dog who nuisance barks, it may be time to dig into the reason why your dog might be barking, and try out some training solutions. Read on for tips on how to stop a dog from barking.

Step 1: Figure Out Why Your Dog is Barking

It’s often easier to prevent a dog from barking than to stop them from barking once they’ve learned the habit. If you have a young puppy, early and thorough socialization is key to prevent barking issues down the road.

However, you may find yourself with a young adult or adult dog who barks excessively. To stop nuisance or problem barking, you first need to get to the root cause of the behavior. There are many reasons why dogs bark, and each one has a different solution — there’s no single do-it-all solution to stop dogs from barking. Some of the most common reasons for nuisance barking are boredom, reactivity, demanding behaviors, and medical issues.

How To Stop Boredom Barking

Pups who are left alone often and for long periods of time may bark out of boredom. Dogs, especially high energy and high drive ones, need breed-appropriate physical and mental stimulation to be fulfilled. Folks with high-energy pooches may need to offer more mental and physical exercise to their dogs to ensure they’re sufficiently enriched.

If you need to leave your boredom barking-prone dog at home alone all day, consider the following strategies to bust the boredom and stop the barking:

  1. Tire your dog out physically and mentally before leaving.
  2. Leave your dog with safe, long-lasting enrichment like a frozen Kong or Toppl.
  3. Hire a dog walker or dog sitter to take your dog out mid-day.
  4. Ensure your dog gets proper mental and physical enrichment when you get home.

How To Stop Alert Barking or Reactive Barking

If your dog is barking at a specific trigger, like bikes, skateboards, other dogs, the doorbell, or people coming near her, it’s important to know that this kind of reaction is often due to fear or uncertainty. Managing the reaction (like closing the curtains if your dog barks at passerby) can keep your dog from practicing the behavior. To properly change the way your dog feels about these triggers though, consider counter-conditioning their response to the triggers with the help of a fear-free dog trainer.

Another thing that can help stop dogs from barking at triggers is to teach a “find it” cue and allow your dog to enjoy a food scatter. A food scatter is just what it sounds like: scattering treats on the ground for your dog to sniff out and find. It’s especially fun to do this in grass, since the grass basically acts as a big snuffle mat.

A treat scatter isn’t a reward for barking — it simply gives the dog something else to focus on to interrupt the behavior. Food scatters also act as decompression and help desensitize your dog to triggers.

To teach this easy training game, simply say “find it!”, then scatter a few pieces of food on the ground. Do this inside without distractions first, then you can practice outside with distractions. If your dog doesn’t eat the food off the ground, ask yourself why. Does she know this game well enough without distractions? Is your food too low value? If your dog is too fixated on a trigger to play the find it game, try using higher value food or practicing with a less intense trigger (or both). This game works best when the dog begins to anticipate the food being scattered on the ground when they hear the words “find it.”

Crate training is also a good tool to use for a dog who alert barks or who barks at specific triggers. Properly crate trained dogs should feel safe and relaxed in their crates and should be less likely to bark while in their crate. Crates are also a management tool, as they can keep dogs from looking at specific triggers (like outside the windows) while you’re away from the house.

How To Stop Demand Barking

Owners of demand barkers often ask “Do dogs ever get tired of barking?”

If your dog is a demand barker and has been reinforced for it, she may not get tired of barking. For example, your dog knows what time dinner is at. She barks until you come and feed her dinner. You come and give her a bowl of food because you’re tired of listening to her bark. You’ve just reinforced her for barking. She now knows that if she barks long enough at dinner time, you will eventually feed her.

Many trainers recommend ignoring alert barking, but this doesn’t teach your dog an alternative behavior to do instead. Dogs who are prone to demand barking can benefit greatly from shaping and impulse control exercises (many of which go hand-in-hand). Though these exercises may seem roundabout at first, they teach your dog to make good decisions and offer appropriate behaviors.

Shaping is a method of training where the handler waits for a dog to offer a desired behavior (or small steps in the direction of the desired behavior), often without giving any physical or verbal cues. The handler will then mark and reward those behaviors or incremental behaviors using food, toys, or something else the dog finds rewarding.

You can shape “paws up” on an object to teach your dog how to offer appropriate behaviors. Start by putting an object on the ground that’s big enough for your dog to put their front paws on it. The object can be a pillow, a pivot bowl, a cato board, or even a box. When you set the object down, your dog will likely go investigate it. Click (or mark) and reward any movement towards the object. Mark and reward for sniffing, walking towards the object, putting one paw on it, etc. Eventually, you will raise your criteria little by little until your dog is comfortable putting both paws on the object.

Teaching your dog to wait at the door can also help with impulse control. Take your dog up to a door on a leash and ask her to sit. Begin to open the door. If your dog breaks her sit, put her back in the sit and try again. Do this until your dog understands that pulling towards the door won’t earn her access to the door. When your dog is sitting politely and you can fully open the door, mark and then use your release cue.

Other Reasons Your Dog May be Barking

There are occasionally medical reasons for increased barking, like anxiety and age-related cognitive issues, like dog dementia. Talk to your vet if you think your dog may be barking due to a medical problem.

Identifying the Healthiest Dog Breeds (and a Few Myths Busted)

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Australian cattle dogs are considered one of the healthiest dog breeds.
Australian Cattle Dogs are generally considered to be one of the healthiest dog breeds. Credit: EyeEm Mobile GmbH | Getty Images

Along with size and temperament, health is one of the most important considerations when you are thinking about bringing a dog into the family. Beyond affecting how much you will need to put aside for vet bills, chronic or inherited health conditions can very much impact the length and quality of your dog’s life. But is there any way to know whether one breed—or mix of breeds—will be healthier in the long run?

The truth is that while some populations have a higher chance of being healthy, it’s not an easy task to identify which breeds might have a propensity to inherit certain diseases or conditions.

Choosing Healthier Breeds

Thanks to modern advances in genetic research, today we have a much clearer understanding of the role genomics plays in the health and longevity of dog breeds. Some of what we’ve learned is quite troubling, however: study after study has shown that dog populations which exhibit high levels of inbreeding are more susceptible to critical health issues like cancers, autoimmune disease, and physical deformities.

Nevertheless, certain breeds tend to be healthier and have longer life expectancies than others:

Australian Cattle Dogs have consistently ranked among the healthiest dog breeds. This medium-sized dog (35-50 pounds, 17-20 inches tall) is in the herding dog group, and is generally very active with a life expectancy of 12-16 years.

Australian Shepherds, commonly known as “Aussies,” are another very active herding dog, somewhat larger than the cattle dog at 40-65 pounds and 18-23 inches in height with a 12–15-year life expectancy.

Border Collies are also part of the herding dog group with a life expectancy similar to the Australian Shepherd’s. Their size and weight also echoes that of the Aussie, and like that breed, they need to be kept active in order to discourage destructive behaviors.

Basenjis are among the healthiest dogs in the hound category, ranging from 16-17 inches tall, and 22-24 pounds with a life expectancy of 13-14 years. Their most distinctive feature is their “bark,” which is more like a yodel.

Beagles, known for their loud bray, are also in the hound group, with a life expectancy of 10-15 years. Beagles can range from up to 13 to 15 inches tall, and weigh between 20 and 30 pounds.

Chihuahuas are among the healthiest toy breeds. At 5-8 inches tall and up to 6 pounds, these dogs are known for their high energy. The Chihuahua has a long life expectancy, averaging between 14 and 16 years.

Havanese are another member of the toy group, standing 8-12 inches tall and weighing between 7 and 13 pounds. Despite their long coat, Havanese are tolerant of warm weather. The breed’s life expectancy is similar to the Chihuahua’s.

Siberian Huskies are members of the working dog group. They commonly stand 20-24 inches tall, weigh from 35-60 pounds, and are one of the few dog breeds with blue eyes. Bred as hard-working sled dogs, the Husky has an average life expectancy of 12-14 years.

Belgian Malinois are a larger breed in the herding group. While they can suffer hip or elbow dysplasia, Malinois typically live from 14-16 years. They stand from 22-26 inches tall, can weigh anywhere from 40 to 80 pounds, and are frequently used as police dogs.

German Shorthaired Pointers are one of the healthiest breeds in the sporting dog category, although they can suffer from hypothyroidism and hip dysplasia. Weighing from 45 to 70 pounds and standing between 21 and 25 inches tall, their typical life expectancy is between 10 and 12 years.

What About Mixed-Breeds and “Designer Dogs”?

In the past, it was generally accepted that purebred dogs were significantly more likely to suffer from genetic disorders than mixed-breeds. Recently, however, science has begun to change its tune, thanks to research comparing the health and longevity of purebreds to mixed-breed dogs—research which on the whole found that while some purebreds are more likely to suffer from some genetic disorders, the overall differences in health outcomes fall beneath the level of statical significance.

One surprising fact that emerged is that mixed breeds don’t necessarily have fewer inherited disorders. Among 24 genetic disorders studied, while 10 were found more frequently among purebred dogs, 13 showed up almost equally within purebreds and mixed-breeds.

In 2020, the first major lifespan study of dogs seen in U.S. private veterinary practices showed similar results, finding little difference in lifespan between purebred and mixed-breed dogs. This research did reveal, however, that dog breeds with more genetic diversity lived longer than breeds with less. Current studies bear this out, finding that purebred dogs have no greater frequency of owner-reported medical conditions during their lifetimes than mixed-breed dogs. These and other studies consistently show that while different breeds may be susceptible to breed-specific diseases, one breed is not intrinsically “healthier” than another.

As for so-called “designer dogs”—mixes such as the Labradoodle, Goldendoodle, and Cockapoo—the few rigorous studies that have been done tend to dispel the myth that these mixes exhibit greater “hybrid vigor” than their progenitor breeds. Almost 90 percent of the health comparisons showed no significant differences between the designer and purebred dogs.

Further, the same types of genetic disorders that affect purebreds can impact designer dogs as well: because of the limited number of these mixes, breeders may mate relatively closely related dogs to expand the “breed.” Whenever two relatives mate, the chances are significantly greater that the offspring will inherit two copies of a recessive gene that leads to genetic abnormalities.

In the final analysis, if you’re going to add a new pup to your life, the best thing you can do—whether you’re heading to a breeder or a shelter—is to know what you’re looking for, do your homework, and most importantly, spend some time with the prospective dog before you commit to bringing it home. You may well be spending the next 15 years with this wonderful creature, so make sure you’re truly made for one another.

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