A dog’s runny nose that is a clear watery discharge is rarely anything to worry about. But, if the discharge changes color or your dog seems to be having difficulty breathing, you should call your veterinarian right away. Credit anakeseenadeen| Getty Images
A dog’s runny nose producing clear, watery discharge is usually nothing to worry about. It is likely a minor response to an allergen such as pollen or something else that irritated the inside of your dog’s nostrils.
A thick, pus-like, greenish, or bloody discharge is much more concerning, even in small amounts. This type of runny nose could indicate a foreign object stuck inside the nose, an infection, distemper, or even a polyp or tumor.
How to Help a Dog’s Runny Nose
If your dog just has a mild runny nose and no other symptoms, you can care for him at home. A clear, watery discharge will usually dry on its own and not cause your dog any discomfort. For thicker discharge, wipe your dog’s muzzle regularly with a damp cloth to remove crusts, prevent buildup, and keep his airway clear.
Your dog should see a veterinarian if he has:
A runny nose and other symptoms of illness
Trouble breathing because of the nasal discharge
A persistent runny nose that keeps coming back
A thick, mucoid, or bloody discharge
Your veterinarian will start by examining your dog and then may run other tests to figure out what is causing the runny nose. This may include swabbing the nose to do a bacterial or fungal culture, allergy testing, bloodwork, or x-rays.
My Dog Has a Runny Nose – What Can I Give Him?
If your dog has a runny nose, call your veterinarian’s office. Do not give any over-the-counter medications unless instructed to do so by your vet – many of the medications that are safe for humans can be dangerous for dogs.
A mild runny nose is usually nothing to worry about and can wait until regular business hours to be seen. Clean your dog’s muzzle as needed to keep his nostrils clear and prevent buildup of debris.
If your dog is having trouble breathing or is bleeding heavily from the nose, this is an emergency. For a nosebleed, you can try applying gentle pressure as you head to the veterinary hospital, but many dogs will not tolerate this. Instead, focus on keeping your dog as calm as possible.
Cleaning your dog’s ears at home is simple, provided you have the right tools and you know why your dog’s ears need cleaning. Credit: MAYA | Getty Images
For dogs who get a lot of ear infections, cleaning the ears at home can be helpful. If you have a drop-eared dog – especially one who loves water – you’ve probably experienced gunky or infected ears. Prick-eared dogs can also get bacterial, yeast, or ear mite infections.
The first step with an ear infection is to get a veterinary exam to determine the cause of the infection and get the right medication. But cleaning the ears will be part of the treatment plan and preventive care for dogs who are prone to recurring ear infections.
Optional: some gauze and/or cotton tipped applicators
Optional: premade dog ear wipes
The ear cleansing solution is the most important item. These cleansers are safe even if your dog has a ruptured ear drum and contain a drying agent so that your dog’s ears will dry quickly once you are done with cleaning. You can purchase an ear cleanser at your vet’s office or any pet supply store.
In a pinch, equal parts of water and white or apple cider vinegar may work, but this is not the best choice for long-term care. Unlike an ear cleaning solution, this mixture does not dry as quickly. Persistent moisture in your dog’s ears can encourage more infections because bacteria thrive in a warm, moist environment.
The cotton balls and gauze are perfect for wiping out ears. Cotton-tipped applicators can be used to remove gunk from the nooks and crannies of the ear but only use these in areas where you can see. Reaching too deep could accidentally rupture your dog’s ear drum.
How to Clean Dog Ears
Apply ear cleansing solution to a cotton ball.
Place the soaked cotton ball in your dog’s ear and squish it around. Most dogs tolerate this better than squirting the cleanser directly into the ear.
Gently wipe the ear with cotton or gauze, using a new piece each time until it comes back clean. Note: If your dog’s ear starts to bleed, stop cleaning. The tissue is too sensitive.
Use a cotton-tipped applicator to carefully remove debris from nooks and crannies of the ear that you can see easily. Do not reach deep into the ear, as you could accidentally rupture the ear drum.
Repeat with the other ear.
Follow your veterinarian’s instructions for how often to clean the ears. In many cases, cleaning will be a couple times a week while treating an infection, and then weekly or every other week for long term care, but this protocol can vary.
When you look at the photos and videos on a dog trainer’s website and social media pages, look for congruency between the written descriptions of the trainer’s methods and the gear and techniques shown in any photos or video. Professionals who are genuinely committed to positive reinforcement-based training won’t be shown with dogs who are wearing choke, prong, or electronic collars. Photo by Yellow Dog Productions Inc / Getty Images
Finding a good trainer for you and your dog may sound simple, but it’s not. Sure, you can search online or ask your veterinarian, groomer, or your dog-owning friends whom they recommend. That doesn’t mean you’re going to find the trainer who’s right for you or your dog.
An online search or a reference from an acquaintance might help you find a decent trainer. Just keep in mind that there are no legal requirements in the U.S. for someone to call themselves a dog trainer or behaviorist. Your plumber could hang out his dog trainer shingle tomorrow with absolutely no dog training experience and start working with clients.
Trainers referred by your friends and animal care professionals may – or may not – be up to speed on what are current and best practices in the dog training profession. And they may – or may not – use safe, effective, and humane training methods.
As a professional trainer myself, I’d like to share with you how I would go about finding and choosing a dog trainer.
Where to look for training candidates
The most reliable places to search are trainer directories of professional organizations that have education requirements and hold their students, members, or certificants to reasonable standards in the application of humane, science-based dog training methods and ethics.
Training and behavior professionals who care about professional standards pursue ongoing education and membership in and certification offered through one or more dog-training organizations and companies. We have a strong preference for professionals who have been certified by organizations that support and promote dog-friendly training, including all of the ones in the sidebar, “Recommended Dog-Trainer Certifying Organizations,” below.
Research Your Dog Trainer
Once you find a certified professional near you, however, your real job has just begun; you’ll need to do some research to make sure the candidate is suitable.
Start by looking at the candidate’s website. Read the information there and scrutinize the photos. While certifying organizations do their best to ensure that members are adhering to their mission and ethics, sadly that’s not always the case. If you see photos of dogs wearing prong or shock collars on the website, cross that trainer off your list!
Also check out the candidate’s social media (Facebook, Instagram, TikTok) to confirm that the text, photos, and videos displayed there are congruent with your own force-free training philosophy. If they have a blog, read several of them. If they’ve written articles for publications, find and read them. If they’ve written a book or books, try to find and read (or skim) at least one. Make sure you are comfortable with everything you find.
Interview the trainer
I also recommend that you interview the trainer or their training staff. They should happily answer your questions about methods and training philosophy – after all, you’ll be entrusting them with your dog’s well-being! Have your questions ready before you call and feel free to add more if some come up for you during the discussion.
Here are questions that I’d recommend you ask a prospective trainer:
What training and experience do you have? How long have you been working in the field? Look for a trainer who has made the effort to pursue her professional education and who has some boots-on-the-ground experience.
What is your educational background? What do you do for continuing education? What certifications do you have? There are constantly new findings in behavioral science. Trainers should be certified by a professional organization that promotes dog-friendly training, and should stay current in the field with regular continuing education at educational conferences, workshops, and/or seminars.
What is your training philosophy? Look for a trainer who is dedicated to a force-free training philosophy that allows the dog choice and agency, and seeks to create relationships between dog and human based on mutual love, trust, and respect.
What do you do if a dog makes a mistake or doesn’t listen? The correct answer is, “Figure out how to help him get it right.” There is no place for “corrections” or physical or verbal punishment in modern, humane dog training.
What methods and tools do you use? The answer here should be science-based “positive reinforcement” or “force-free.” Ask if they would ever use a choke (slip), prong (pinch), or shock collar (also called “electronic collars” or “e-collars”). We don’t recommend trainers who use these tools.
Do you guarantee results? The answer here should be, “No!” Dogs and humans are sentient, unpredictable creatures, and no ethical professional guarantees training results. This is a classic sign of a bad or shady trainer.
Instructor giving direction to a line of owners with their dogs during a dog training class.
When the trainer or their staff members answer your questions, listen – really listen – to their words. A recent study that examined the websites of 100 popular trainers found that trainers who use aversive methods are more likely to use the phrases like “pack leader,” “mother nature,” “electronic collar,” or “e-collar,” may talk about using a “balanced” approach, and brag about training without using treats.
In contrast, force-free trainers tend to talk about positive reinforcement, support the use of food in training, and are likely to call “electronic collars” by their more appropriate name: shock collars – and they don’t use them.
After talking to a trainer or her staff, ask to observe a training class. Make sure the trainer puts force-free training methods into practice, not just using buzzwords. Aversive and “balanced” trainers (those who use aversive training and positive reinforcement) have learned that there’s marketing value in the term “positive reinforcement” and they use it to attract clients. We’d keep looking if they mix treats and yanks on the leash.
Finally, ask for references: Good trainers are happy to supply you with contacts from past clients who can attest to their work. Don’t just look at them; call or email at least a couple to ensure that they are happy with their training experience.
Recommended Dog-Trainer Certifying Organizations
These organizations have unique education and experience requirements for trainer certification. Each promotes dog-friendly training; some go a bit further and specifically disapprove of dog-training methods that include force, pain, or fear.
Academy for Dog Trainers
Created by Jean Donaldson (author of the groundbreaking book The Culture Clash), the Academy for Dog Trainers is a two-year, part-time online virtual university program for dog trainers, offering education in all aspects of dog training, dog behavior, behavior modification, and more. Find Academy graduates here.
Animal Behavior Society
The Animal Behavior Society certifies behavior professionals with advanced degrees and experience in applied animal behavior. Find Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists (CAABs) here.
Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers
This organization requires its certificants, called Certified Professional Dog Trainers (CPDTs), to document at least 300 hours of training experience, provide references, and pass a written exam. CCPDT also certifies behavior professionals (CBCCs). Find CPDTs and CBCCs here.
International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants
The IAABC offers certification for behavior work with a variety of species, including dogs, cats, horses, and birds. Find Certified Dog Behavior Consultants (CDBC) here.
Karen Pryor Academy
Karen Pryor is a former marine mammal trainer and author of the landmark book Don’t Shoot the Dog (originally published in 1984), which launched the positive training movement. The Karen Pryor Academy, now administered by noted behavior professional Ken Ramirez, offers myriad courses, including the Dog Trainer Professional course, which awards a Karen Pryor Training Partner certification. Find KPA CTPs here.
Peaceable Paws LLC – Pat Miller Certified Trainer
I offer four levels of certification (PMCT) for trainers who have completed Peaceable Paws academies, starting with Basic Dog Training and Behavior and advancing through academies on Behavior Modification, Aggression, and Cognition Find PMCTs here.
Pet Professional Accreditation Board
The Pet Professional Accreditation Board (of the Pet Professional Guild) offers the only Accredited Training Technician & Professional Canine Trainer certification for professionals who believe there is no place for shock, choke, prong, pain, force, or fear in training and behavior practices. Find PPAB certificants here.
Veterinary Behaviorists
Veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians who have done an additional intensive course of study in animal behavior. They address relationships between an animal’s health, environment, experiences, and behavior. They have extensive knowledge of psychotropic medications and are licensed to prescribe them when indicated. Veterinary behaviorists can be found through the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (here) and through the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (here). The latter also provides a list of non-veterinary PhD behaviorists.
Victoria Stillwell Academy: School for Dog Trainers
Founded by world-renowned dog trainer Victoria Stilwell, the Victoria Stilwell Academy for Dog Training & Behavior educates and empowers aspiring dog training professionals to change the lives of people and dogs through positive training. Find VSA Certified Dog Trainers (VSA-CDTs) here.
I didn’t plan to foster this year – not until Otto has passed. But a friend, the vet tech from my local shelter, called in a special favor, and for the past few weeks, I’ve had a little mama dog and her five puppies staying here.
I was already aware that, at the moment, the shelter is caring for an extraordinary number of mothers with puppies (and motherless puppies, too), and I was keeping my heart hard, holding that space for my own dogs as we negotiate what is likely to be my increasingly rickety old dog’s last months. Also, I’ve taken on a part-time teaching position at a friend’s training center; I have NO EXTRA TIME right now!
But my friend said this particular mama dog was causing problems for the shelter staff; she is a very good, protective mother – to the point where the staff was having a hard time keeping her kennel clean. She didn’t want anyone near her pups, and would jump at the cage door and bark and growl at and menace every person who passed by. Once separated from her pups, she’s almost frantically friendly. But separating her was a challenge several times a day for an already too-busy shelter staff.
The shelter workers are accustomed to a certain amount of aggressive behavior from some of their highly stressed charges; after a while, they don’t even flinch as they walk by the kennels containing truly dangerous dogs, who leap at the cage doors, roaring and snarling. But, to their credit, they recognized that not only was this poor little mother dog stressed out of her mind, she was about to start stressing the heck out of her puppies, too.
Did you know that puppies’ ears are essentially sealed closed until they are about 12 to 14 days old? That they can’t hear until then? WDJ’s contributor Kathy Callahan taught me that recently. I was sure she was wrong – but every authoritative source confirmed this. Well, that made me feel better about the poor pups being born in the noisy shelter, but at three weeks of age, they were already flinching and ducking for cover every time their mom exploded from their bed, barking in warning at every shelter worker passing by.
I have an outdoor pen that’s all set up for stray or foster dogs. It’s covered and shaded and pretty much escape-proof, sitting on a concrete slab that had a giant (and defunct) spa on it when we bought the house. The weather is nice enough that the mother and puppies alike would be comfortable outdoors, without having to completely rearrange my office to accommodate them indoors. I told my friend I would take the little family until the pups were ready for adoption and the mother was ready for heartworm treatment (of course she is positive for heartworms! Ugh!) and spay surgery. I put an electric heating pad (the hard plastic kind that is meant for pets) in the doghouse for the cooler nights, and also provided the mama with a bed on an elevated platform so she could escape the pups when she needed space.
Phoebe was one of 20 dogs that were seized by our county animal control in a neglect case. She and all the other dogs were dangerously underweight when taken into custody, but given that all the dogs were intact, the shelter staff knew that some of the females were likely to be pregnant. They hoped that the wheels of the law-enforcement bureaucracy would churn quickly enough to put pressure on the owner to sign over the dogs to the county as soon as possible – quickly enough so that the shelter could perform spay surgery on the females, aborting any pregnancies in the process, before they gave birth. But three of the seized dogs, including Phoebe, gave birth in the already crowded shelter.
I am sure it sounds insensitive, this talk of aborting puppies. But the shelter was already caring for four litters of puppies (totaling 24 puppies) and about 10 other puppies that had been surrendered to the shelter individually or in pairs before these three mamas added 17 more puppies to the shelter population. That’s 17 more mouths to feed for at least three months (and sometimes five or six months), 17 more spay/neuter surgeries to pay for . . . But they are here now, so, let’s move on.
It’s been a joy to watch Phoebe decompress from her shelter stress (and what had to have been a stressful life in a home of 20 dogs living together with very little food). She was highly protective of her babies at first, but we made friends at a distance from them, and within a day or two she was no longer growling or barking at me or my dogs, though for the first week, she would still give me a wagging but closed-mouth muzzle punch if I bent over the puppies too quickly, and was quick to put herself between the pups (and her food) and my dogs if they dared to come close to her pen. She takes such assiduous care of the pups, I’ve hardly had to clean up after them; they are taking up far less of my time than most litters. And now that she’s been here for about three weeks, she will allow any of my dogs to approach and sniff the pups, and is no longer guarding her food. That’s a very fast transformation; she’s a very nice little dog. She hasn’t bothered Otto in the slightest, and is starting to play with Boone and Woody, abandoning her now-6-week-old puppies to flirt like the teenaged mother she is.
I’m glad my friend at the shelter pulled me into the project, even though I have NO EXTRA TIME.
Puppy teeth are sharp! Making sure your kids always have a toy in reach helps puppies learn that they can play a mouthy game with those fun little humans, but only if there’s an object in between. Photo by Briana Watts
Everybody knows they need to prepare their home for a puppy’s arrival, but often parents don’t realize just how much they need to prepare their children for that moment. Puppies and kids go together well, but it takes prep work with both the child and the puppy.
Puppies jump! They have sharp teeth! It’s key to talk to kids ahead of time about what puppies can be like — and to put structures and rules in place to protect all the vulnerable parties from unintentionally hurting or scaring each other.
Creating the right environment, routine, and habits in those first intense months is worth every bit of effort, because few things in life beat the puppy-and-kid-growing-up-together experience. Here are eight keys for helping canine and human kids to go beyond just getting along and end up bonding for life.
GET IN THE ZONE
First step: parental mindset. It’s demoralizing to be thrown off guard by challenges day after day. (“Mom! She chewed my doll!” “Dad! He knocked Jimmy over!”) Instead, take a deep breath and expect those issues. Not only does that help you psychologically gird yourself for a certain level of frustration, but it will result in preparation that means far less of the unfortunate stuff will actually occur.
TEACH YOUR CHILDREN ABOUT PUPPIES
On display in the background is the #1 predictor of a happy kid/puppy home: a pen providing an easy ability to separate the two when need be. Photo by Veronica Jarvinen
The adults are not the only ones who need psychological prep. Kids need to be taught that the puppy is just a little kid like themselves – and one of a puppy’s favorite things to do is to play The Puppy Game. This is the beautiful chase/jump/bite/wrestle game she played endlessly with her littermates before you brought her home. Now the small humans in your home are the closest thing she has to the canine friends she misses so much – they even squeal like puppies! Kids are usually sympathetic to learning that their puppy badly misses her sibling playmates and the fun games they used to play all day, every day.
Even when they understand that, most kids need reminders to help them be their best selves around the puppy. Practice these sentences:
She’s just a baby.
We are her teachers.
She is doing all the things that are normal for puppies to do! We need to teach her what humans like to do.
I know those teeth hurt, but she didn’t mean to hurt you! Puppies play like that with their very favorite littermates. We need to help her find a different way to play with you.
USE GATES, PENS, & CRATES
Sometimes the mouthiest, jumpiest puppies are that way because they are not getting enough rest during the day. Over-tired puppies in active households hop up whenever they hear something interesting happening. Building in routine quiet crate time can make an enormous difference in a puppy’s ability to fall sound asleep and then be her best self later. Photo by Jennifer Kyle
Having the tools to easily separate kids and dogs on a regular basis is the single biggest predictor of household happiness in the puppyhood months. Puppies and young kids simply cannot hang out together without being managed carefully – period! Yes, I know that this might be devastating news for parents who thought that a puppy would help keep kids off screens and playing in a wholesome manner while parents can focus elsewhere, but, nope. Not yet. One day!
If you want to reach that “one day” sooner, you need to do the groundwork by refusing to let bad habits get established. And it’s certain that unsupervised kid/puppy interactions will result in the puppy playing The Puppy Game – and a kid coming crying to you. There is a lot to teach children about how to act in a way that won’t draw out The Puppy Game in the puppy, but while that’s a work in progress, the key is to have quick separation options at your disposal. Do not hesitate to fill your house with them all. Crates, pens, gates, sofas moved just so, etc., are valuable tools for keeping all the kids safe and separated when you’re not able to actively supervise their interactions.
GET MORE CHEW TOYS (NOPE, YOU DON’T HAVE ENOUGH)
There’s nothing like a kid and a puppy growing up together – so creating the right environment for that relationship to thrive is worth every bit of effort. (Fun fact: All of the puppies featured here are siblings from the author’s latest foster litter.) Photo by Jennifer Kyle
Without even seeing your set-up, I’m going to tell you this: You don’t have enough chew toys, and/or they’re not in the right places. “Huh? My basket is overflowing!” I know. But that’s just it, they’re over there in the basket, and your kids need to be able to reach them RIGHT NOW, because the puppy is about to greet your kindergartener by jumping up and sinking in some teeth.
For people who love to keep the house and yard straightened up all the time, this is challenging news indeed. But your kids must be able to reach out whenever they’re going to encounter the puppy and grab a long fluffy fox, a braided felt rope, or a big squishy ball. They need to be able to – over and over and over – teach the puppy that teeth go on the toy, not on the kid. It may be hard for kids to remember to set themselves up for success this way, which is why the adults have to make it easier by keeping those toys easily within reach.
SET AND TEACH THE RULES TO YOUR KIDS
Creating clear, easy-to-remember guidelines for how to interact with the puppy is a lifesaver, because normal kid behavior includes a lot of things that will bring out the worst in the puppy. Save yourself a lot of trouble by having a family meeting (or two, plus a quiz!) to discuss these guidelines:
Let the puppy choose whether to interact! If there were only one rule, it would be this one. This is not a stuffed animal to be grabbed, picked up, trapped in a long hug, moved here and there, and argued over. Show the kids how to entice the puppy instead, using squeaky toys, happy voices, and treats. If you want your future adult dog to be safe around kids, make sure your kids treat this impressionable puppy with respect.
Find your slow body. A running/jumping human creates a running/jumping puppy.
Use your quiet voice. High pitched, loud noises get a puppy aroused, and aroused puppies jump, chase, and use their teeth to interact.
Sit on the floor if you want to hold the puppy. In my house, kids are criss-cross applesauce on the floor when they hold my foster puppies. If you feel this is Draconian, I will tell you stories of dropped puppies with broken legs, or of dogs who growl at the approach of their own child. Kids love to walk around the house holding a puppy – and almost all puppies hate that.
Let sleeping dogs lie. Puppies need a lot of sleep, and they should be left alone to get it. This can be really difficult when you have a very mouthy/jumpy puppy, because sometimes kids only feel safe approaching the pup when he’s sound asleep on the floor. Promise me at least this: If the pup moves away, respect that choice immediately.
Play fair. Dangling something in front of a puppy without ever actually giving it to him teaches him not to trust you. That’s the opposite of what we want to teach. Use the Golden Rule: Play the way you’d want to be played with.
Respect the crate. It must be the puppy’s safe, quiet, private refuge. No climbing in. No surrounding a pup who wants to be alone.
MAKE PUPPY PLAYDATES
If you’ve ever watched puppies with their littermates, you know that life is one long version of The Puppy Game. Reasonably enough, that’s what puppies want to do with us, since we took them away from their playmates. It is utterly unfair to then spend every day saying, “No. No. No. No. No.” Instead, it’s on us to help them find a new friend who’ll love to wrestle, bite and chase.
People new to puppyhood often feel awkward or nervous about asking neighbors for a puppy playdate. We experienced puppy people say: Nothing will improve your puppyhood experience faster than finding an awesome puppy friend nearby. It will match your puppy’s over-the-top energy, give him a healthy outlet for his biting and jumping, and build his doggy communication skills which will keep him safer in encounters with other dogs. (Here are tips on how to supervise that playdate.)
If I could conjure up the perfect scenario, I’d say start every day with a 20-minute cup of coffee in a fenced yard with a neighbor, and maybe add another 20-minute session right before the kids come home from school in the afternoon. That may be beyond the ability of many new puppy owners, but do what you can!
ORGANIZE STRUCTURED TOGETHERNESS
Free play between kids and puppies often ends in chaos, and that’s not a habit we want them to practice. Having a handful of activities on tap that put a bit of structure on the scene is key. Here are a few examples:
A walk is a great option. Heading out on an adventure together can be a perfect way to bond. All parties are interested in the surroundings, so they won’t be 100% focused on each other. Maybe the kids are on a bike or a scooter. The pup is on a leash so it’s easy for the kids to pop out of range if The Puppy Game threatens to start. Bring a treat pouch (always) and have the kids reward when the puppy responds to her name with eye contact.
Playing the recall game is a two-fer: It’s fun and it teaches the puppy that it pays off to come when called. Just get in a circle and take turns calling your pup with a big, fun, cheery, “Come-come-come!” When puppy spins and runs to the person who called, they deliver a treat. Even tiny kids can play this game, and it teaches the pup to listen to everyone in the family.
“Find it” can be shockingly helpful. First, the adults need to teach the pup that the magic phrase “Find it” means it’s worth looking on the ground because they’ve just tossed something there. Once pup is enthusiastically seeking out those bits of kibble, this becomes an incredibly useful game. Keep a ceramic jar of kibble where the kids can reach it, and teach them to toss a bit of kibble and say, “Find it!” Pup will snuffle after the treat and then turn back to see what’s next. Kid says: “Find it!” and tosses in a different direction. Repeat, repeat, repeat. As you advance, the pup sits to start the next round. (Jumping or mouthing puts a stop to the game.)
Training is the best game of all when kids are old enough (or the right temperament) to take part. Good positive reinforcement training should feel like a fun game to the dog, and for the right kid it can be a wonderful thing to do together. Parents need to be totally on it, though, in terms of deciding what that should look like. If your puppy is just learning “sit,” but you let your 2nd grader come in and demand sits in a big voice without rewarding at the right time . . . you’ve just set your training back. (Some kids love telling dogs what to do, so it’s key to emphasize that we’re teachers, not drill sergeants.)
CREATE A NAP-FILLED ROUTINE
Setting up a daily routine is hugely helpful in fostering better interactions between kids and puppies. There are going to be times where either a child or the puppy is too wound up (or too tired) to be at their best. Instead of trying to react in the moment to those constantly shifting winds, you can overlay a structure that stacks the deck in your favor.
Building puppy naps into the routine is critical! Often the puppies who are the most jumpy/bitey are the ones who are not getting enough sleep because of their active household. Young puppies should be sleeping at least as much as they’re awake for the first few months! (i.e., awake from 7–9; asleep from 9–11.) Just like toddlers, many puppies think they don’t need a nap, so they don’t take one by choice. This is where a nice, quiet crate comes in, maybe with a box fan on or classical music playing to mask household noise.
To find the right routine, start with your family schedule, add in the natural rhythms of your puppy, and come up with a daily outline for when meals, walks, playdates, indoor training sessions, outdoor fetch and tug, and nice big naps will typically take place.
Then adjust as necessary! If your pup is over-the-top when your kids first come home from school, experiment with your routine. Does she need a giant nap before being her best with the kids? Or does a big walk or a 20-minute romp with the neighbor pup take the edge off and help her be ready to play without all the teeth?
Mind you, this kind of careful planning won’t be necessary forever! But in the beginning, while you’re teaching good habits about how to act around each other, aim to put kids and puppies together when they’re both at their best.
PUPPIES AND KIDS REALLY ARE THE DREAM
This list of suggestions could have you throwing up your hands and saying, “Hey! I thought puppies and kids were a natural match!” They absolutely are – when they’re set up for success. For a child, there’s nothing like growing up with a friend at home who loves you unconditionally; for a puppy, there’s nothing like a playful, snuggly kid who has all the time in the world for you. And from a parent’s perspective, it’s a beautiful thing to get to witness for years and years . . . so a few months of this focused management ends up being a drop in the bucket on the way to creating the dream.
Conventional wisdom of yesteryear was to ignore a dog or puppy who was whining or crying in his crate at night – to let him just “cry it out.” That strategy does more harm than good! Photo by CMannPhoto, Getty Photos
It can be pretty darned annoying when your dog whines or cries at night, keeping you from getting enough sleep! But as annoying as it is for you, think about it from your dog’s perspective: she’s crying because she’s in distress. The key to ending the fussing is to ease her distress.
In years past, dog training professionals counseled clients to let the dog cry it out. “If you go to them,” we said, “you’ll reinforce them for crying and they’ll just learn to cry longer and harder.”
This was very bad advice. I suspect many dogs with mild separation-related stress had their anxieties turned into pathological separation anxiety by having their distress cries ignored.
I was guilty of giving this bad advice myself on occasion in the past (a long time ago). But when we know better we do better, and we teach better. Now we know that a dog who cries for longer than just a few minutes is trying to tell us something. Most often she is telling us that she is in distress, and she is crying out for help. This dog needs soothing and relief from her stress, not ignoring.
What to Do with a Crying Dog
The first thing you need to do with your whining, crying dog is to comfort her. Remove her from the situation that’s causing her distress and do whatever you need to do to alleviate her stress. Pet her. Hold her. Lie on the floor with her. Speak softly to her. Play soft music. Massage. If she’ll play, play with her.
Then address the environment that’s causing her distress by using management and behavior modification. The most common cause of continuous crying is separation-related behavior. If you have a dog who’s whining and crying all night, I’d bet you’ve probably got her shut away from you in another room, perhaps crated. Bring her into your bedroom. Then work with a force-free professional to address the separation distress. (See “Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Symptoms and How to Modify the Behavior.”)
Generalized anxiety can also be a cause of persistent vocalization. Again, management is in order to reduce your dog’s exposure to the anxiety-causing sights, sounds, or other stimuli, along with modification to help change your dog’s perception of those stressors.
Your dog might also be in distress as a result of a medical condition of some kind, so a full veterinary workup is in order if you can’t identify other obvious reasons for her distress vocalizations.
For persistent vocalizing, especially if it’s determined to be anxiety-related, anti-anxiety medications may be appropriate – either short-acting or long-acting, depending on the circumstances. You’ll want to have this discussion with your behaviorally knowledgeable veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist. Do it sooner, rather than later. For an anxious dog, medication should be a first-line defense not a last resort.
Help Your Crying Dog
Bottom line – your crying dog is in distress and calling out to you for help. Help her. It’s what you would want someone to do for you.
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Staffordshire Terriers are one of the dog breeds with a higher incidence of stomach cancer. Contrary to popular belief, dogs with stomach cancer almost never have a swollen stomach unless the cancer has spread to other areas of their abdomen. Photo by Heather Paul, Getty Images
Stomach cancer is rare in dogs, accounting for less than 1% of all cancers diagnosed in our canine companions. This form of cancer tends to occur in older dogs and affects male dogs more than often then female dogs. Although any breed of dog can be affected, stomach cancer is seen more often in Chow Chows, Rough Collies, Staffordshire Terriers, and Belgian Shepherds.
Stomach cancer symptoms in dogs
Symptoms of stomach cancer include vomiting, nausea, weight loss, and a decreased appetite. Some dogs may vomit blood or their vomit may look like coffee grounds. Other dogs may have black, tarry stool. Dogs with stomach cancer almost never have a swollen stomach unless the cancer has spread to other areas of their abdomen.
Unlike other forms of cancer where there may be one or more masses, or tumors, stomach cancer tends to cause a focal or diffuse thickening of the stomach wall. This makes stomach cancer challenging to diagnose with routine imaging, such as survey radiographs (x-rays).
Abdominal ultrasound completed by a boarded radiologist may be useful in identifying areas of the stomach wall that are thickened and therefore suspicious for stomach cancer. Confirming a diagnosis of stomach cancer requires obtaining biopsy samples of the affected areas of the stomach.
Biopsy samples can be obtained with a minimally invasive procedure called endoscopy. Endoscopy is typically performed by a veterinary internist, also known as an internal medicine specialist. Your dog will need to be briefly anesthetized for this procedure.
During an endoscopy, the internist passes a thin tube with a camera and a light on the end down your dog’s throat and esophagus and into his stomach. This allows her to examine the innermost lining of his stomach, called the mucosa. When she sees an abnormal region of the mucosa, she can obtain a small biopsy sample by using a special grabber tool.
Some forms of stomach cancer affect only the middle layer of the stomach wall and not the mucosa. When this is the case, the entire lining of your dog’s stomach may appear normal on endoscopy. If stomach cancer is still suspected but the endoscopy findings are normal, then a surgical exploratory to obtain biopsy samples may be recommended.
A surgical exploratory is a procedure in which a surgeon makes an incision in your dog’s abdomen (under anesthesia, of course!) and visually examines each of your dog’s abdominal organs. For a dog that is suspected to have stomach cancer, the surgeon pays particular attention to the stomach and the first section of the small intestine. Areas of the stomach that appear abnormal can be either biopsied or removed. Biopsy samples or surgically removed sections of the stomach are sent to a veterinary pathologist for diagnosis.
How long can dogs with stomach cancer live?
There are two general categories of cancer: benign and malignant. Benign tumors tend not to spread to other areas of the body and generally do not recur if they are entirely removed. Malignant tumors tend to spread to other areas of the body.
Unfortunately, the majority of stomach tumors in dogs are malignant and have usually metastasized by the time they are diagnosed. The prognosis for dogs with malignant stomach cancer is poor, even when treated with chemotherapy following surgical removal of the tumor. Most dogs with malignant stomach cancer live less than six months following diagnosis and treatment.
In contrast, dogs who have a benign stomach tumor that can be surgically removed in its entirety have a good prognosis for life. If not surgically removed or if the benign tumor is in a section of the stomach that cannot be easily removed, benign tumors will continue to grow. Benign tumors of the stomach can grow large enough to interfere with the stomach’s proper function, leading to a dog’s demise.
What to feed a dog with stomach cancer
Dogs with stomach cancer need a highly nutritious diet that is easy to digest. Your veterinarian may recommend a prescription canned gastrointestinal diet, such as Hills i/d, Purina EN, or Royal Canin Gastrointestinal. Canned food has a higher moisture content than kibble and is easier for the stomach to break down into a slurry.
Prognosis
Since the prognosis for dogs with stomach cancer is generally poor, your veterinarian may discuss palliative care options with you. Palliative care options include medications to alleviate pain, a stomach acid reducer, and an anti-emetic (anti-nausea) medication.
Research into this and other forms of cancer in dogs is being pursued worldwide. While the current picture for stomach cancer in dogs appears bleak, the results of current research may provide a brighter future.
This puppy has a severe case of demodectic mange. No type of home treatment is effective for treating this, and delaying diagnosis and appropriate treatment is inhumane. Moreover, effective treatment may be a simple matter of one dose of a prescription medication. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
Mites cause two types of mange, Demodectic and Sarcoptic, which is also known as scabies. Both cause itching, hair loss, pain, secondary infections, and relentless scratching, biting, and licking. There are no effective home remedies for mange, so prompt veterinary care is essential.
Demodectic mange is spread by Demodex mites, which are present on dogs in low numbers as part of their normal fauna. Demodectic mange is not contagious between dogs, and in dogs with healthy immune systems, the mites don’t create problems. In vulnerable dogs, it spreads across the body, lasts for more than one or two months, and may involve all four feet. Hair loss, yellow debris matted around the base of hairs, red bumps, and variable itching are the main symptoms. Hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, and other autoimmune disorders can trigger outbreaks.
Canine scabies (sarcoptic mange) is less common, affecting up to 4% of dogs, but is more serious. Mites burrow into the dog’s skin, usually where there is little hair, such as near the ear flaps, elbows, hocks, and belly, and the results are extremely painful. Non-stop scratching leads to lesions, crusting, and hair loss. Sarcoptic mange is highly infectious from one dog to another.
How is mange treated?
Traditional home remedies form mange such as the topical use of motor oil, lemon juice, yogurt, or aloe vera are not recommended, as they are all ineffective and often harmful to the patient. Repeated lime-sulfur shampoos or dips and the anti-parasitic medication ivermectin were the main treatments for both types of mange until recently, when isoxazoline drugs (such as NexGard and Bravecto) replaced them. Originally developed to control fleas and ticks, isoxazolines are highly effective at treating mite infestations, but can cause adverse neurological side effects in some dogs, requiring a thorough medical exam before prescribing.
Mange requires prompt and appropriate treatment with prescription medications that will kill the mites that cause it. Additional supportive care in the form of antibiotics to treat infection caused by scratching or chewing, and medicated baths may be needed as well.
Many dogs will spin more readily in one direction than the other. Encourage your dog to spin in both directions; just use a different (and consistent!) cue for a clockwise and a counter-clockwise turn. Photo by Nancy Kerns
There are long lists of fantastic fun tricks you can teach your dog – and “Spin” is one of my all-time favorites. “Spin” simply asks your dog to turn in a 360-degree circle – easy-peasey to teach, and fun to show off!
To start, ask your dog to stand in front of you, facing you. If she keeps sitting, back up and invite her to move forward toward you as you begin to lure the spin.
Have a treat in your right hand and put it at the end of her nose. Lure her to your right (her left) by moving the treat in an arc toward her tail.
Move the treat in a 45- to 90-degree arc. If she follows the lure, moving her feet in the beginning of a spin, mark (using the “click” of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and give her a treat. If your dog follows the lure easily, go the full 90 degrees. If she’s a little hesitant, start with 45 degrees (or less!).
Gradually increase the arc, marking and treating generously, until she’s doing a full 360-degree turn with a mark and treat at the end.
Add the “Spin” Cue
Fade the use of a food lure as quickly as you can, and gradually make the gesture you use as a cue smaller and smaller, until she will spin or twirl on just the verbal cue or with a tiny hand or finger gesture. Photo by Nancy Kerns
When your dog does the full circle easily every time, add your cue. I use “Spin” for a right turn (counterclockwise), and “Twirl” for a left turn (clockwise). Be consistent! Of course, you can use whatever cues you want. I also like “Twist” and “Shout,” and “Donut” and “Cheerio.” Start saying your cue just before you lure her. Gradually minimize the hand motion and eventually fade the lure completely, until she’ll spin on just the verbal cue or with a tiny hand or finger signal. (For information on how to fade the use of a food lure, click here.) For “Twirl,” do the same thing – only start with the treat in your left hand and turn her the opposite direction.
A puppy is born without teeth but will have her 28 baby teeth in place by the time she’s about 6 weeks old. Providing proper chew toys will help her get through both the emergence of those baby teeth and the sometimes painful change to adult teeth. Credit: yellowsarah | Getty Images
A dog’s baby teeth fall out between 12 to 16 weeks old. The incisors (small teeth in front) tend to be the first to fall out. You might find lost teeth, but it’s unlikely. These teeth are tiny, and many puppies swallow them as they loosen up.
Symptoms of a Dog’s Baby Teeth Falling Out
Your puppy’s gums may appear swollen, and her mouth is now tender. You also may notice these signs that your puppy is losing her baby teeth:
Blood on chew toys
Chewing, lots of chewing
Blood on puppy’s mouth
Hesitation to chew hard treats
Swollen gums
The appearance of adult teeth breaking through the gums
Help for Puppy Teething
While her teeth are switching over from her first 28 deciduous, or “baby,” teeth to a full set of 42 adult teeth, your puppy will chew. And chew, and chew. As always, you should watch what she’s choosing as a chew!
Most puppies do enjoy some cold, soft chew items while teething. Soaking a washcloth in cold water and freezing it before giving it to your puppy will help comfort her gums. Soft or semi soft chew items such as Kongs made for puppies are good choices, too. Always supervise chewing, as she may break off pieces of chew items and it’s preferable if she didn’t swallow them.
Resist the urge to introduce tooth brushing until she is through the irritating teething stage. Instead, offer her some enzymatic dog toothpaste (poultry flavor tends to be a big hit) to lick off your fingers.
By the age of 6 to 8 months, your pup should have her full set of adult teeth. Occasionally, a baby tooth will remain in place, with the adult tooth beside or behind it. Your veterinarian may recommend pulling the baby tooth to allow the adult one to grow in normally. Your puppy’s bite (how her front teeth mesh) should be apparent by this time as well.
Rapamycin’s ability to regulate the growth of cancer cells made scientists wonder whether rapamycin could work the same way on non-cancerous cells, extending the life of those cells and acting as an anti-aging compound. If this proves to be true, the implications for its use an an anti-aging drug – in humans and dogs – would be profound. Photo by PeopleImages, Getty Photos
The average life span of dogs is about 11 years, with some variation based on size and breed. It would appear that there is now a drug that can extend the length and quality of some dogs’ lives. Rapamycin is a compound that has been found to have a number of important medical uses, including as an anti-fungal agent, an immunosuppressive drug that prevents rejection in organ tranplant recipients, and an anti-cancer drug. It’s already been found to improve cardiac function in dogs – and now it’s being investigated for its ability to extend an animal’s normal lifespan.
Use of Rapamycin in Dogs
Many parts of a dog’s body decline as they age. They lose lean muscle mass, have decreases in heart and immune system function, and can experience cognitive dysfunction. Their risk of developing cancer increases. These changes also happen in mice (and humans!).
Low-dose rapamycin therapy was found to reduce the incidence of cancer in mice. Improvements in both cognitive and muscle function were observed. Declines in heart and immune function were reversed. Low-dose rapamycin therapy also improved the state of several age-related conditions in mice. Recent studies have shown that administering low doses of rapamycin to mice extends their lifespan by 25%.
A study published in 2017 found that low-dose rapamycin therapy improved cardiac function in dogs. Owners of the dogs involved in the study also noted positive behavioral changes, but this requires more study to determine if these effects were due to rapamycin. If the drug works in dogs in a similar fashion as it does in mice – and the indications so far suggest that it will – rapamycin may turn out to be the next big drug
We live in an exciting age of medical research and advancements. While the fountain of youth may be mythical, rapamycin has some exciting prospects in the field of anti-aging. And the benefits may exist for both us and our dogs!
Let Sleeping Dogs Lie
You Can Participate in Dog Aging Studies
Researchers with the Dog Aging Project are examining how a dog’s genetics, environment, and lifestyle influence how dogs age. They are currently recruiting dogs from all over the United States to participate in a community science studies – some of which can be done from the comfort of your own home.
Further, dogs who are enrolled in the Dog Aging Project may be eligible to participate in the Dog Aging Project’s Trial of Rapamycin in Aging Dogs (TRIAD) study. The Washington State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital (WSUVTH) is a participating partner in this study, which is being designed to determine whether rapamycin increases the lifespan of companion dogs. A secondary purpose is to determine whether rapamycin improves various measures of health in aging dogs.
If they pass the screening exam, dogs will then be randomly assigned to receive either rapamycin or a placebo for one year. Enrolled dogs will need to return to the WSUVTH in Pullman, Washington, every six months for a three-year period. At each return visit, physical exam, blood pressure, sample collection, ECG, and echocardiogram will be repeated. After that, owners must be willing to take their dogs to their primary care veterinarian once per year for an additional two years of study follow-up.
We will be looking forward with great interest to the results of these studies. Rapamycin seems to have many benefits to offer our dogs – and any increase of our time with them would be extremely welcome.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
