Most of us who feed a raw diet to our dogs include whole raw meaty bones (RMBs), animal parts that are at least half meat but also include bone that is fully (or mostly) consumed. This is in contrast to recreational bones, such as knuckle and marrow bones, which usually have little meat and where the bone itself is not eaten.
RMBs that are commonly fed include chicken necks, backs, and leg quarters; turkey necks; lamb breast and necks; pork breast (riblets) and necks; and canned fish with bones, such as jack mackerel, pink salmon, and sardines (preferably packed in water rather than oil). Raw fish can also be fed, though some may harbor parasites (freshwater fish are more likely to have problems than saltwater fish). Never feed raw salmon or trout from the Pacific Northwest (California to Alaska), as this can cause a fatal disease called salmon poisoning in dogs. Cooking makes salmon safe to eat; canned fish is cooked, so there’s no concern about salmon poisoning from canned salmon.
It’s not always easy to find RMBs. Ask your local meat manager or butcher; they can often order them for you, though you may have to buy a case at a time. (Most of us who feed our dogs a raw diet have purchased a separate freezer to help store the food!) Ethnic markets often have a wider selection than grocery stores do. There are a number of raw food co-ops and groups who share information and buy in quantity directly from vendors, both to lower the cost and to gain access to a wider variety of foods. If there is no group in your area, consider starting one.
You can keep costs down by buying in bulk, looking for sales, and buying meat that is close to its expiration date and marked down. It helps to develop a relationship with your suppliers, who may be willing to save bargain-priced meats for you.
RMBs should make up 30 to 50 percent (one third to one half) of the total diet, or possibly a little more if the parts you feed have a great deal more meat than bone (e.g., whole chickens or rabbits). The natural diet of the wolf in the wild consists of 15 percent bone or less, based on the amount of edible bone in the large prey animals they feed upon. While a reasonable amount of raw bone won’t harm an adult dog, more than 15 percent is not needed and reduces the amount of other valuable foods that can be fed.
Too much bone can also cause constipation, and the excess calcium can block the absorption of certain minerals. The stools of raw fed dogs are naturally smaller and harder than those fed commercial foods, and often turn white and crumble to dust after a few days. If the stools come out white and crumbly, or if your dog has to strain to eliminate feces, you should reduce the amount of bone in his diet.
Most dogs do fine with raw meaty bones, but a few may have problems, including choking and (rarely) broken teeth on the hardest bones. In my experience, turkey parts are associated with the most problems, though many dogs eat them regularly with no trouble.
Remember that if you feed a diet that includes 30 to 50 percent RMBs, there is no need to add calcium supplements.
Many families are surprised and dismayed when they realize that their adorable new family member is equipped with needle-sharp teeth and a strong instinct to use them constantly. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Puppies use their mouths to interact with the world. They bite to play; they bite to investigate. They bite to ask; they bite to answer. They bite because they’re full of energy; they bite because they’re over-tired. They bite because they’re teething; and they bite when teething is supposedly over.
All of this biting is a very natural thing, developmentally speaking, on Planet Dog. Of course, it’s just as natural for us delicate-skinned folks on Planet Human to want it to stop, immediately! It’s awful when your puppy’s “attacking” everyone in the family. Then again, it’s also hard to be a misunderstood puppy transplanted out of your own culture.
The answer is to implement a plan that works for both sides of the teeth! Here’s a five-part plan for helping everyone make it peacefully through this challenging puppy phase:
First, meet your puppy’s natural needs.
Provide appropriate chew items.
Use toys to occupy and fend off puppy teeth in play – and then, in games of tug, as a bridge tool to early training.
Teach Planet Human ways (so-called “training”) gradually.
Employ management equipment to keep everybody safe.
#1) Meet your puppy’s Planet Dog needs
I spend a giant percentage of my waking hours with puppies in their biting prime – between 3 weeks and 6 months of age. (This is because I specialize in puppyhood coaching, run a puppy socialization play-and-train group, and our family fosters litters of rescue puppies.) Quite often, exasperated owners drop their puppies off at my home, saying they can barely interact with their pup because of the nonstop biting. Hours later, when I send them videos of the puppy here – interacting with my human and dog family beautifully, with zero biting – they are simultaneously very hopeful and pretty annoyed.
What’s the secret? I jump into meeting the puppy’s basic Planet Dog needs before I try to interact in a human-oriented manner. Other than food and shelter, what are those needs? Think along the lines of:
Socializing with their own kind.
Digging, sniffing, foraging in nature.
Running, chasing, and “hunting.”
Exploring (and resting) at their own pace.
Having mouthy fun like chewing sticks and biting friends.
At our house, a puppy gets to frolic – teeth and all – with fellow canines, sniff around in a yard bursting with interesting scents, dig in some dirt, chew some sticks, and maybe bark at a deer or a fox. When the puppy has had about half an hour of all that and wanders over to me, he’s no longer bursting with that wild I’ve-been-trapped-in-a-pen-in-the-living-room energy.
Mind you, it’s not that the puppy is exhausted after his half hour with us; he is simply filled up with appropriate enrichment experiences. He’s like a calmly alert second-grade boy who just had an awesome time at recess and is now actually able to sit down at his desk and listen.
No matter where or how you live, you can find a way to give your puppy daily doses of being a real dog. You’ll get the biggest bang for your buck by finding a puppy friend in your neighborhood for regular, delightfully bitey playdates. But an unrushed “sniffari” walking in an interesting spot, some interaction with nice adult dogs, and plenty of chances to chew or dig will help, too.
Meet those natural needs consistently, and the in-the-moment biting management strategies outlined next will do the rest. Every time you’re struggling to get them to work, ask yourself: “Did my puppy get to be a dog much today?” If the answer is no, start there.
#2) Provide ample and appropriate chew items
Sometimes, your puppy’s biting is simple – a demonstration of his biological need to chew. Chewing is a natural canine pastime, and for teething puppies it’s vital. Having great things on hand that prompt a satisfying, long chew session will pay off in a happier puppy who learns the great habit of chewing “legal” items.
But what’s safe to use? There are horror stories about rawhides that cause intestinal blockages, bully sticks that are a choking hazard, toys with threads that get swallowed and tangle intestines, and marrow bones that break off and puncture organs. In fact, there’s almost no chew item that’s completely safe. Just because it’s labeled for puppy use doesn’t mean it won’t land you in the ER!
However, back to this section’s main point: Puppies absolutely need to chew, and those dramatic medical crises are unlikely if you use appropriate chew items. That said, everybody has to make their own risk-assessment choices. Here are my own guidelines:
Food-stuffed Kongs and Toppls (in the correct, non-swallowable sizes for each pup) are the safest choices. Put nutritious stuff in there (a mixture of a spoonful of canned food, some moistened kibble, some almost-too-old carrots or green beans, some plain yogurt, and a smear of peanut butter) so that you’ll feel comfortable using these every day. Freeze them so they last 20 minutes instead of five.
For everything else, watch like a hawk at first while you’re learning your puppy’s chewing style. Later, always stay nearby with an ear open (for sounds of coughing or choking).
As you evaluate different chewing styles, watch out for the pup who is shockingly fast and able to break off pieces of his chew items; he gets a smaller variety of allowed items.
Keep in mind that the presence of another dog will often make a puppy chew too fast.
Also at the root of a switch to dangerous, too-fast chewing is the approach of an owner saying in a threatening tone, “Hey, give that to me!” If you need to take something away, stay cheery, give no attention to the item, and make a little trail of treats (such as bits of ham or roasted chicken) in the other direction. As pup follows the fun new yummies, swipe the chew he left behind.
Fresh marrow bones that the butcher cuts to about a 3-inch length are awesome. While adult dogs can break them into pointy parts, or crack their teeth on them, puppies don’t have the strength for that. I personally will leave a puppy unsupervised in a crate with a nice new marrow bone like this. If you want to make one last a few days, pop it back in the fridge after each 20-minute chewing session.
Rawhides and bully sticks are famous for creating digestive upset, blockages, and choking problems. If I use them, I supervise 100% of the time. Also, I buy only giant sizes, because it’s the tiny ones marked “for puppies” that are much more likely to get swallowed or lodged in the pup’s throat or digestive tract, sheesh! I get the ones that are either super thick or super long, and I offer them to pups in 20-minute increments before the chews go back in the basket.
If a puppy does chew an item down to a swallowable size, I throw it away well before it could become a choking hazard. (Given the price of bully sticks, that kills me, but that stomach surgery would be more!)
#3) Use toys to fend off puppy teeth, then play tug
With those sharp teeth and the clever disguise of extreme cuteness, it takes only a second for a puppy to draw blood or rip your pants. And believe it or not, the worst part of that isn’t the blood and the rip. It’s that your puppy got a chance to rehearse that bitey behavior. Chances are it felt fun and rewarding to her – “Yay! This feels like home, with my littermates!” – which means she’s more likely to repeat it.
Here is smart use of two championship-level puppy-management tools: a long, soft tug toy and a portable exercise pen, which can keep puppy safely contained – and the kids’ clothing and skin intact! Photo by Kathy Callahan
Don’t let that happen. Instead, every single time you approach, reach into the overflowing toy basket you have handily placed right at the entrance to any place the puppy spends time. Grab a tug toy or two. At first, when the puppy is brand new to you, you’re just using those toys to fend off those needle-sharp puppy teeth.
How well the classic replace-hand-with-toy strategy works in decreasing painful bites depends on your ability to choose the right toys (by observing closely which ones are favorites for your particular pup) and keeping them in the right spots.
In the earliest fend-off stage, big stuffed animals that will block the mouth and protect your hand are a great choice. As you move into tug, you’ll likely find that long, flat, furry animals (bonus if there’s a squeaker in the tail) work best. As for rope toys, the thick, hard ones tend to be ignored while the stretchy, soft, braided fleece style is perfect. (You can make them yourself!)
Keep in mind that length is a hand-saver. Very skilled puppy wranglers can make good use of a six-inch tug toy, but newbies will find that the longer the toy, the safer the human. If you have young kids, you’ll be so grateful if you add that three-foot, crinkly snake to the repertoire.
Even if you have all the right toys for your pup, the way you store and manage them can make all the difference. I want you to have so many options you could litter the puppy’s floor with them. But should you? Nope! Because if that toy has been lying around for days, it won’t be very enticing.
If, instead, you select the fluffy, squeaky raccoon the puppy hasn’t seen since last Tuesday: Bingo! Teeth are engaged in a way that makes everybody happy. (Always rotate your toys. Keep just a few out for the morning, then swap them out for the afternoon, and again in the evening.)
Soon enough you’ll be using toys less as a shield and more as a tool for interaction, by encouraging your puppy to play a game of tug – a beautiful Planet Dog / Planet Human compromise. Tug allows us to give the puppy a YES in response to her innate impulse for physical, bitey play – instead of trying to shut her down with a NO that’s as ineffective as it is unfair.
Back in the alpha-obsessed dark ages of dog training, “experts” used to tell folks that playing tug would teach their dog to question their authority. The modern, happy reality is that tug can be a great opportunity to build cooperative communication, as you slowly start to add some structure to the game.
For example, you begin to teach that a polite sit re-starts the game, and you work toward teaching a “Drop” cue. The result? Fun plus learning plus communication plus bonding.
#4) Introduce fun training games
Puppies are far more capable of calm behavior after they’ve gotten their Planet Dog needs met through play with their own kind – ideally in a natural setting with opportunities to smell, chew, dig, and roll. Photo by Kathy Callahan.
In calmer moments of the day, when your puppy is not all teeth, start introducing a fun new way to pass the time: training. By using tiny bits of food to teach and reward behaviors like “sit” and “touch,” you can open up a whole new way for the puppy to interact with another being. The more the puppy learns to love fun, food-filled training, the sooner you can use training as a way to redirect the biting. Rather than ignoring your voice and continuing an assault on your pant leg, the pup will begin to stop and think, “Oh, right. Let’s do that instead.” Win-win!
One of the best training games to play with a jumpy, bitey puppy is an energetic melding of the games “Find it!” and trainer/author Leslie McDevitt’s game, “Ping-pong.” Here’s how it works: Pup heads to you and you toss a treat very obviously on the floor, calling out the cue “Find it!” Pup will gobble the treat and then swivel back to you. As the eyes meet yours, say “Yes!” and toss a treat to the other side: “Find it!” Repeat, repeat, repeat as pup goes back and forth (like a ping-pong game).
Here are the advantages to this simple game:
It rewards eye contact and focus on you (because that’s what re-starts the game), which is the giant first step in training.
It’s an active game for the puppy (so it suits a jumpy/bitey mood) – and yet it’s controlled by you.
It can be scaled up in terms of difficulty (throw farther), energy expended (add in a little jump over your legs that are extended on the floor), or behavior needed to re-start the game (move from eye contact, to a sit, to a sit-touch-spin).
If you greet your bitey pup with a short game of tug followed by a few minutes of this kind of training, you’ll have drained some energy and established an atmosphere of cooperation. Mental stimulation can be more tiring than plain old physical exertion, which is one reason this ping-pong game is better than an endless game of tug.
Mind you: This won’t work on Day One, because you haven’t yet built up the bond and the understanding that listening to you presents opportunities to earn yummy stuff. To review: The strategy for biting on Day One is fending off teeth with stuffed animals; followed a few days later by a more nuanced tug game; and only later by using a training session to deal with a bitey mood.
#5) Put management tools to work: pens, gates, and crates
Of course, sometimes none of these strategies work! (Remember, your first thought is: “Oh, wait, has my puppy had a chance to be a dog today?”) Even when you’re doing everything right, along comes the witching hour where nobody can be safely around the puppy. This is where the beauty of “management” shines. Hello pens, gates, and crates!
We all need to be able to pop that pup into a safe area where she can’t do any harm. To ease that moment of separation, toss a handful of kibble on the floor (“Find it!”) and/or use a chew. Use this option when:
You truly do not have time this morning to give the pup the playdate or sniffari she really needs.
You’ve been trying tug and/or training, but pup is still wildly going for your limbs.
The combo of the kids’ mood and the puppy mood means disaster.
Puppy is in a wild mood because of being over-tired and needs confinement to encourage that sleep.
Stick to a plan
When it’s all written out, this plan to get through puppy’s biting stage appears complex. Honestly, it’s really not once you’re in the swing of it! It’s just that many people don’t have a plan for dealing with this phase at all – puppy cuteness seems to fool people into thinking that it’s all going to be rainbows and butterflies! Keep these five steps top of mind and you’ve got the guidance you need to weather this adorable but prickly stage of your new puppy’s life.
Many dogs put on thicker and thicker coats as they age – and have trouble shedding it all out in the spring and summer, even with diligent grooming. If your thick-coated senior is hot, panting, and miserable in the summer, consider shaving him, even against expert advice. Important: Note that you’ll have to protect him from the sun or other elements until his coat grows back in. Photo by tzahiV, Getty Images
Most grooming experts advise against shaving dogs, but in some cases, shaving may be the best option for some older dogs’ health and happiness.
Shaving is Discouraged
Most veterinarians and organizations like the American Kennel Club warn that double-coated dogs (that is, dogs with an insulating undercoat) should never be shaved, stating that shaving can cause overheating, discomfort, sunburn, clipper injuries, skin problems, follicle damage, and a ragged, patchy, unkempt coat that cannot be appropriately groomed.
Instead of shaving, grooming experts recommend regular brushing to improve air circulation in hot weather plus frequent baths to help keep dogs cool.
An Exception to the Rule
However, when older dogs struggle with summer heat, shaving may be just what the doctor ordered.
“I would not recommend shaving Labs and other double-coated breeds when they are young and their skin and shedding systems are working well,” says Lorrie Boldrick, DVM, owner of The Barefoot Veterinarian veterinary practice, in Orange, California. “I reserve this procedure for the old guys and gals.”
According to Dr. Boldrick, the aging process and hormonal changes prevent some dogs from shedding their undercoats. “If the undercoat remains in place in hot weather, the dog cooks,” she says. “The undercoat continues to do its job of insulating the dog, and it retains heat under the coat next to the dog’s skin.”
Dr. Boldrick learned about shaving when a client’s dog was 13 years old, lethargic, depressed, and suffering from unceasing pain and discomfort. Dr. Boldrick did a full checkup with blood tests, but the results were normal, ruling out an obvious condition that could be corrected with medication. Resigned, the owners scheduled an appointment for euthanasia.
Thankfully, the owners called to cancel before the appointment arrived. “They had taken their dog to a groomer and had him shaved very short,” Dr. Boldrick says. Within days, “he was a happy dog willingly doing all his normal old-dog routines and acting like himself again. He was shaved for two more summers and neither he nor his family minded the rude comments they received about his shave job.”
Another one of Dr. Boldrick’s senior patients who benefited from a summer shave was Dusty, a yellow Labrador Retriever living in Silverado, California, where summer temperatures often exceed 100º F. Dusty struggled with hot weather as she aged, says her owner, Chris Kakuuchi. “She would pant day and night,” says Kakuuchi. “Getting her wet helped, but it was temporary.”
Dusty received her first body clip at age 14 from Dr. Boldrick, and it made an immediate difference. “She was so happy!” exclaims Kakuuchi. “She slept better and for longer periods. As soon as her coat started to come in, the panting started again – and it stopped as soon as she got another body clip.” Dusty lived to be 16 and each trim left her more active and comfortable.
“Shaving isn’t appropriate for all double-coated dogs,” says Dr. Boldrick, “but it has transformed the lives of many older dogs and deserves consideration when heat and undercoats interfere with relaxed breathing and everyday activities.”
Your dog will remembers people through your scent, voice, and face and hopefully associates them with fun and happiness for a long time. Credit: KateSept2004 | Getty Images
Will my dog remember me? That’s a question people often worry about, especially if they’re leaving their dog for a few days or weeks.
Well, have no fear. The answer is yes, your dog will remember you, through both your scent and your face, especially your eyes.
How Dogs Remember You
One important way dogs remember people is through their amazing sense of smell. A dog has up to 300 million scent receptors in his nose, so he can sense smells 100 to an unbelievable 10,000 times better than we can, depending mostly on the breed. Your dog can even easily sense your scent in the air, on your clothes, or on things you’ve touched, which is how search-and-rescue dogs work.
Your dog also has a strong associative memory, which means he associates people with events, like food, playing ball, or riding in a car. So, your dog remembers your scent and associates it with you and with pleasure.
Dogs Remember Faces
Research strongly supports that dogs remember and recognize their human companions.
A 2020 study published in Animal Cognition (Eatherington, CJ, et al) found that dogs can recognize their owners through photographs, with a higher probability that male dogs would recognize their owners.
In 2015, researchers used functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) to determine how dogs remember faces. The study found that dogs have a specialized region in their temporal lobe for remembering faces. The researchers believe this also may help explain dogs’ “exquisite sensitivity to human social cues.”
In a 2013 study in Animal Cognition, researchers used a computer with faces flashed on a screen and found that dogs focused on the eyes of the people on the screen, whether the photo was upright or not. The dogs clearly recognized the faces of people with whom they had lived or spent significant time. They also concluded that dogs read facial expressions, such as anger, depression, or happiness.
Dogs Remember Voices
An older study noted that when dogs hear a voice they recognize, they expect it to be associated with that person’s face. This shows dogs “do not merely associate auditory and visual stimuli but also actively generate a visual image from auditory information.”
How Long Dogs Remember People
How long canine memories last is a matter of disagreement among researchers. Conclusive evidence of how many years a dog can remember a person or event is lacking, likely because of the difficulty of conducting such a lengthy study. That said, most researchers believe dogs can remember important people and significant events in their lives for years, perhaps until death.
So, yes, your dog remembers your scent, your face (especially your eyes), and your voice and associates them with happiness, love or snuggling, or maybe just with food.
Symptoms of vestibular syndrome (also known as vestibular disease) in dogs include head tilt, unsteady gait, and falling to one side.
Vestibular syndrome describes any illness that affects a dog’s vestibular system – the body’s apparatus that keeps him balanced and upright. A problem with his vestibular system causes a dog to seem dizzy and disoriented.
Vestibular syndrome in a dog can be one of two types: peripheral or central. Peripheral vestibular syndrome affects the components of the middle and inner ear. Central vestibular syndrome affects the parts of the brain responsible for coordinating movement of the eyes, head, and limbs.
Your veterinarian will complete a full physical and neurologic exam of your dog to determine if his vestibular syndrome is peripheral or central (or if his symptoms are caused by a seizure or syncope – these conditions can look similar). Determining the type of vestibular syndrome narrows down the list of potential causes. It also helps determine which diagnostics will be useful in identifying the cause of your dog’s vestibular syndrome.
Do Not Administer Benadryl
Do not attempt to treat vestibular syndrome at home without first consulting your veterinarian. Benadryl is sometimes suggested for dogs with vestibular syndrome – but while it has a good anti-nausea effect in dogs experiencing motion sickness, the drowsiness it induces can cause more difficulty for a dog who already has trouble walking.
Causes of peripheral vestibular syndrome
There are a number of quite disparate causes of peripheral vestibular syndrome:
Idiopathic vestibular disease. The most common cause of peripheral vestibular syndrome is also known as old-dog vestibular syndrome. Idiopathic vestibular disease tends to affect older dogs and can affect any breed. Dogs with this condition have no change in their mentation; they are still bright, alert, and want to be with their people. They look as though they are on a boat at high seas!
The signs of idiopathic vestibular disease typically begin to subside after three days. It may take up to two weeks for an affected dog to return to normal, although he may have a persistent head tilt for two months or more. There is no known cause or treatment for idiopathic vestibular disease. Your veterinarian may prescribe medication to address the nausea associated with his vertigo while he recovers.
You can help your dog during his recovery from idiopathic vestibular disease by keeping him away from stairs or other places where he may fall and hurt himself. You may need to support your dog while walking or posturing to urinate and defecate. You can provide him with support with bath towels slung under his chest and belly or an orthopedic harness (like the Help ‘Em Up Harness).
— Middle ear infection (otitis media) or an inner ear infection (otitis interna). Collectively, these ear infections are the second most common cause of peripheral vestibular syndrome. These infections are different from the more common external ear infections (otitis externa). Otitis externa affects the ear canal and sometimes the eardrum (tympanum); these are the parts your veterinarian can see when examining your dog’s ear with an otoscope. Otitis media and interna affect the part of the ear on the other side of the tympanum – the part that cannot be seen with an otoscope.
Diagnosis of otitis media/interna can sometimes be made by examining the tympanum with an otoscope. A bulging, discolored, or even ruptured tympanum is consistent with otitis media/interna. But a dog with otitis media/interna may have a normal-appearing and intact tympanum. If your veterinarian is suspicious that your dog has otitis media/interna but the tympanum appears normal, she may order radiographs or CT of the skull to examine the middle and inner ear.
Treatment of otitis media/interna may require a 4- to 6-week course of antibiotics. Your veterinarian may collect a sample of pus from your dog’s ear and submit it to the laboratory for a bacterial culture and sensitivity. This ensures that the correct antibiotic has been selected to treat your dog’s infection.
— Less common causes of peripheral vestibular syndrome. These include tumors of the inner ear, recent head trauma, and hypothyroidism (low thyroid hormone). Recent administration of ototoxic drugs – such as the antibiotics gentamicin and amikacin – can also cause peripheral vestibular syndrome. A rare congenital condition seen in German Shepherds, English Cocker Spaniels, and Doberman Pinschers can cause peripheral vestibular syndrome in puppies.
Causes of central vestibular syndrome
Central vestibular syndrome is a rare condition in dogs. Dogs with this condition will have many of the same symptoms as peripheral vestibular syndrome but with a few key differences. There may also be blindness, facial paralysis, rigidity of the forelimbs or all of the limbs, flaccid paralysis of two or more limbs, or a recent behavior change.
— Cerebral ischemic events (strokes) and intracranial masses (brain tumors) are the two most common causes of central vestibular syndrome.
Dogs who have suffered a stroke will often start to improve on their own over the course of a few hours to a few weeks. The neurologic changes that occur with a stroke have an acute onset. Strokes can recur, causing more damage each time they wreak havoc on the brain. Therefore, it is important to look for an underlying cause of the stroke to minimize the risk of recurrence.
Brain tumors may cause a sudden and rapid decline in a dog’s neurologic status. Unlike a stroke, brain tumors can cause gradual changes in a dog’s behavior, such as staring off into space, walking into corners, barking without explanation, and aggression toward family members (both human and animal). Depending on the location of the tumor, there may also be gradual loss of vision, gradual and progressive loss of control over their limbs, and gradual and progressive facial paralysis.
If your veterinarian suspects that your dog has a brain tumor, she may order advanced imaging of his brain, such as MRI or CT. Since brain tumors can be primary (originate in the brain) or secondary (metastasize from other locations in the body), she may also order chest x-rays, bloodwork, and an abdominal ultrasound to screen for cancer elsewhere in the body. Treatments for a brain tumor include surgical removal of the mass, radiation therapy, chemotherapy, or palliative therapy with steroids.
— Less common causes of central vestibular syndrome. These include infections that affect the brain, an inflammatory condition known as granulomatous meningoencephalitis, congenital malformations (such as hydrocephalus or Chiari-like malformation), long-term administration of high-dose metronidazole (an antibiotic), and recent head trauma. Infections that affect the brain can be viral (such as canine distemper), bacterial (such as tick-borne diseases), protozoal (like toxoplasmosis or neosporosis), or fungal (including cryptococcosis, coccidiodomycosis, and blastomycosis).
Diagnosing one of the less common causes of either peripheral or central vestibular syndrome may require advanced imaging (such as CT or MRI), obtaining a sample of cerebrospinal fluid to look for infectious or inflammatory conditions, and thyroid function testing.
Prognosis for dogs with vestibular syndrome
The prognosis for dogs with idiopathic vestibular syndrome is generally good, while the prognosis for other causes is variable depending on the underlying cause. This is one of the few times that we welcome a syndrome with no specific cause!
Excerpted from an article by Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
What many people don’t realize is that aggression is caused by stress. The stressor may be related to pain, fear, intrusion, threats to resources, past association, or anticipation of any of these things. An assertive, aggressive dog attacks because he’s stressed by the intrusion of another dog or human into his territory. A fearful dog bites because he’s stressed by the approach of a human. An injured dog lacerates the hand of his rescuer because he’s stressed by pain.
When you punish a growl or other early warning signs, you may succeed in suppressing the growl, snarl, snap, or other warning behavior – but you don’t take away the stress that caused the growl in the first place. In fact, you increase the stress, because now you, the dog’s owner, have become unpredictable and violent as well.
Worst of all, and most significantly, if you succeed in suppressing the warning signs, you end up with a dog who bites without warning. He has learned that it’s not safe to warn, so he doesn’t.
If a dog is frightened of children, he may growl when a child approaches. You, conscientious and responsible owner, are well aware of the stigma – and fate – of dogs who bite children, so you punish your dog with a yank on the leash and a loud “No! Bad dog!” Every time your dog growls at a child you do this, and quickly your dog’s fear of children is confirmed – children do make bad things happen!
He likes children even less, but he learns not to growl at them to avoid making you turn mean. You think he’s learned that it’s not okay to be aggressive to children, because the next time one passes by, there’s no growl. “Phew,” you think to yourself. “We dodged that bullet!”
Convinced that your dog now accepts children because he no longer growls at them, the next time one approaches and asks if he can pat your dog, you say yes. In fact, your dog has simply learned not to growl, but children still make him very uncomfortable. Your dog is now super-stressed, trying to control his growl as the child gets nearer and nearer so you don’t lose control and punish him, but when the scary child reaches out for him he can’t hold back any longer – he lunges forward and snaps at the child’s face.
Fortunately, you’re able to restrain him with the leash so he doesn’t connect. You, the dog, and the child are all quite shaken by the incident.
It’s time to change your thinking.
For more details and advice on how to properly deal with your dog’s growling, download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Growling.
This is the moment the family is excited for: bringing home the new puppy! The first hours, days, and weeks in her new home will pass most smoothly – and the relationship will get off to the best start – if the family spent the previous few weeks preparing for the big day. Photo by Kathy Callahan
It’s the most exciting moment for any dog lover: a new puppy is coming! Advance preparation will make your pup’s introduction to her new life easier for both of you.
Plan With Your Puppy Care Professionals
As soon as you start thinking about getting a puppy, find and engage your puppy care professionals:
Veterinarian: If you don’t already have one, find one! A current veterinarian shortage means many veterinary clinics aren’t taking on new clients. Be sure they follow Fear-Free protocols, including allowing you to always stay with your pup during clinic visits.
Trainer: Enroll in a puppy socialization class as soon as possible – and plan ahead, because classes may fill and force you onto a waiting list that causes your puppy to “age out” of the most beneficial socialization window. The American Veterinary Society of Veterinary Behaviorists says puppies can start puppy classes as early as 7-8 weeks of age, and that life-threatening risks of under-socialization far outweigh the very minimal risk of exposure to germs in a well-run puppy class. Find an experienced trainer who is a member of and/or certified by organizations that follow science-based, force-free philosophies.
Walker/Sitter/Groomer: Be sure these professionals are bonded and insured, members of professional organizations, and also committed to force-free handling – especially because they’ll often be caring for your dog in your absence.
Puppy House Rules
Bringing your new pup home can be stressful for canines and humans alike. Agreeing on routines before the pup arrives and ensuring everyone follows them makes the transition easier for all. Consistency and predictability are very important for stress-reduction in all species. Here are some things to decide before the new pup sets paw in your home:
Collar, leash, harness, a bed or two, crate, exercise pen, baby gates, a lot of toys, training treats, food and water bowls – all your supplies need to be in place before that bundle of puppy love walks through the door.
What kind of food will you feed (do your research!)? Pups are usually fed three times a day; who will feed each meal? Where will she be fed?
Where will your puppy sleep? We recommend nighttime confinement to a crate or exercise pen in someone’s bedroom, to minimize puppy stress and possible isolation or separation distress or anxiety. Same bedroom every night (consistency!) and that person is willing to get up at 2:00am when the pup needs to go out.
Exercise, enrichment, and training. These are critically important to raising a mentally and physically healthy, well-mannered adult dog. Start now – waiting until the pup grows up is too late! Decide which family member(s) are responsible for seeing that these needs are taken care of daily.
Is everything in place? Got all your ducks in a row? Now go get that puppy and love her to pieces for the rest of your lives together!
You do want your dog to be happy and comfortable in the collar, so if a softer version gets the job done, that’s the one to choose. Credit: Cathy Hawkins | Getty Images
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Traditionally, your dog is sent home after surgery wearing an Elizabethan collar, which is a stiff plastic tall cone that goes around the dog’s neck. Sometimes called a “dog surgery collar or e-collar,” this e-cone attaches to the dog’s collar and prevents him from licking the surgical site and removing stitches or infecting the wound. But, you may prefer to use an alternative for the e-collar.
These hard plastic dog surgery collars are not be best for your dog’s happiness. According to a 2020 study from the Sydney School of Veterinary Medicine, published in Animals, most alternatives are preferable to the Elizabethan collar. The researchers found over 77% of the participants reported a poorer quality of life while the animal wore the collar.
Some dogs bang into walls, furniture, and everyone in the house. They have trouble figuring out how to eat or drink. A few dogs will panic. Other dogs get depressed. And a few just freeze in place. It’s not a happy situation.
Luckily, there are commercial alternatives for these uncomfortable dog surgery cones and a few nifty homemade dog cone alternatives that may better suit your dog.
Homemade E-Collars
You can devise homemade/DIY versions of the Elizabethan collar. A rolled towel duct-taped to hold its shape like a donut collar may work for some dogs. Many dogs find it more comfortable than the plastic cone.
You can also thread pool noodles on a collar as a DIY cone alternative if you’re willing to do the work. You will need the correct size for your dog and be sure he can’t reach around it, but this can be an inexpensive alternative to a store-bought donut.
Some people take cardboard and create a cone using duct tape. The drawback is that it can be difficult to put on and to remove and you need to choose cardboard that the dog can’t bend, rip through, or lick enough that it weakens. The cardboard still limits vision, however, and is as unwieldy as the e-collar.
If you like the commercial neck wrap/brace option below, you may be able to fashion one out of cardboard, but be sure to pad the edges with cloth or foam to prevent rubs. With this design, your dog can’t tear or lick the cardboard, but he might be able to bend it.
Commercial E-Collar Alternatives
A donut collar doesn’t restrict vision and probably just feels like a fat collar to most dogs. But, it should be the right size to stop the dog from reaching around to chew at the incision. Credit: Cmann | Getty Images
Not surprisingly, most dogs seem to prefer alternatives that don’t interfere with vision. Donut collars, like the Kong Cloud Collar, are popular with people and dogs alike, as they are like a bulky regular collar that snaps into place around the dog’s neck.
A taller, thinner option is a neck wrap/brace like the Bite-Not that stops the dog from reaching around and chewing on himself. He can still see without obstruction, eat, drink, and be comfortable. Be sure to get the proper fit.
Softer versions of the traditional dog Elizabethan collar, like the Comfy Cone, are more comfortable than plastic but still stand up and keep the dog from reaching around it. However, dogs can’t see through the Comfy Cone, and this can be a drawback.
For dogs that don’t need a major deterrent, a more flexible, softer version of the e-collar, like the ElizaSoft might work. It gives the dog more neck movement, but it’s wide enough that he can’t reach around it. It may be too wide for some dogs, however, causing them to step on it.
If you have a basket muzzle, like the Baskerville muzzle, you can use that. This muzzle will stop the dog from chewing at his stitches but still allows him to breathe freely, pant, eat treats, and drink water. Be sure to acclimate your dog to wear the muzzle before his surgery, however.
The Goal Matters
All recommendations depend upon getting the right size for your dog. Whatever you use, it must prevent your dog from turning his head so he can reach the incision. It must be safe—so he can’t injure himself trying to remove it or get caught on something when walking around.
Most dogs accept the old plastic Elizabethan collar, but a strong study shows that they would prefer something more comfortable that doesn’t restrict vision or bump into everything. Credit: Tim Scott | Getty Images
Expect trial and error, knowing that if you don’t figure out an alternative collar ahead of when you need it, you will have to use the one the veterinary clinic sent. If you get the alternative collar before you take the dog in, you can ask a veterinary staff member to help you ensure it is properly fitted to your dog.
If your dog is going to be recovering in it for more than a few days, you’ll need more than one recovery device/collar/suit, so you can wash and dry one while he wears the other.
Remember, you cannot leave the dog unattended or just “keep an eye on him” after surgery. For more depth on commercial options, see our article here.
A note about sprays and ointments that claim to deter licking wounds are available: First, they don’t stop all dogs; second, get your veterinarian’s OK before you use anything on a fresh incision.
The Suit Alternative to Dog Cones
A popular alternative to cones is a post-op surgical/recovery suit. The suit covers the incision and prevents your dog from licking or chewing the incision. Many companies make these suits, and they’re washable and reusable. The best dog onesies have snaps in the areas of the penis or vulva and the anus so you don’t have to take the suit off when the dog needs to go outside. We compared suits in our dog recovery suits review.
For little dogs, a baby/toddler onesie can work as a surgical suit. Take some measurements of your dog before you go to the store, especially if baby clothes aren’t your thing. For bigger dogs, you may be able to adapt a kid’s or adult T-shirt or long sleeve shirt for an inexpensive version.
At least think about whether your dogs could actually thrive, in a home other than yours if the unthinkable happened to you.
If something happened to you, would your dog be welcome in (and able to fit into) someone else’s home and family?
If something happened to you, what would happen to your dog? Do you have a commitment from someone in your life to keep him for the rest of his life? And, here’s the kicker: Would that person be happy to have your dog join her family, or would it be a hassle?
I was thinking about this in relation to a blog post (“Straight Talk for Senior Adopters”) I recently wrote. In that post, I mentioned that senior dog owners have a special responsibility to make sure that they have made arrangements for their dogs in case of their deaths – as well as a responsibility to make sure that their dogs are healthy, socialized to others, and well behaved, so they will be welcome and cherished, not unhappy burdens, to their new owners. It shouldn’t have been a surprise that a number of people pointed out in the comments that people of all ages should do these things – and they are right! People die unexpectedly at all ages.
But I was thinking about dogs I have met at the animal shelter where I volunteer – dogs whose elderly owners died and who had no one step up to take them into their homes and families. I was present for one heartbreaking handover in the lobby of the shelter: A woman brought her father’s dog to the shelter for surrender after he passed away, saying that she lived in a “no pets allowed” apartment complex, and what’s more, she had small children, and the dog was terrified of kids and had bitten them. Well, the dog was terrified of everyone; I would guess that no one besides the deceased person had touched the dog in years, if not the dog’s entire life. While I’m sure the man who died had not planned on dying, he hadn’t done the dog any favors by failing to habituate her to other humans. In a shelter environment, it was going to be a long, hard journey to get her to accept contact with, much less trust and love, another person. But I couldn’t fault the daughter, either.
At least think about whether your dogs could not just fit in, but actually thrive, in a home other than yours if the unthinkable happened to you. Maybe you already have a commitment from someone to take in your dog if you died – but does your dog have behavior issues that would be difficult for your designated person to manage? If you have the sense that there’s no one else you know who would put up with your dog’s reactivity to other dogs, barking, leash manners, or whatever, consider putting some time and effort into addressing those issues, for your dog’s sake!
What you see in the photo here are the morning meds. I thought it was bad that all three of my dogs are currently receiving daily medication; then I was prescribed something, too!
Last week, I had to have oral surgery – a molar that was anchoring one half of a bridge had its root canal go bad and it had to be removed. So, the yellow pill on the left is my antibiotic, to be taken three times daily for a week.
The blue pill is 7-year-old Woody’s current antibiotic, to be taken twice a day. In February, he broke yet another toenail – it seems like he breaks one at least once a year! It was a bad, high break, leaving his quick completely degloved – and of course it got infected. He had to go see the vet and get on antibiotics about a week after the broken nail was treated. It was healing well, and the new nail was almost all the way covering the now-toughened quick, when a little abscess surfaced on the side of his toe near the base of the nail – a little pocket of infection that had survived the previous antibiotic. So now he’s on a new one – for two weeks this time. He’s nearly done with this round of antibiotic and the toe and its nail is looking really good – but he’s having a mystery lump surgically removed from his thigh as I write this, and I’m not sure whether he’ll be sent home with more antibiotics or what. I’ll find out this evening!
The pill-and-a-half are antibiotics for 1-year-old Boone! Yes, three individuals in my home are on three different antibiotics at the moment – not a great advertisement for fighting antibiotic resistance. I’m waiting to hear whether Boone has tested positive for a tick-borne diseases (TBD) – the tentative diagnosis for the symptoms he displayed a couple of weeks ago for the better part of a day (as I described here), and then again for an entire day a week later. My vet feels pretty certain that his waxing and waning symptoms could be caused by Lyme or another TBD – and fortunately for Boone, vets are more inclined than doctors for humans to proactively dose dogs suspected of having a TBD before getting a positive test, just based on symptoms and an exposure to ticks. Boone was exposed to ticks the day before his first “sick day” – and I found and removed two engorged ticks from him later that week.
One of the hallmarks of Lyme disease and other TBDs is that, if treated promptly, the symptoms often resolve very quickly once the doxycycline (the most effective antibiotic for treating most TBDs) has been started. I’m hoping beyond hope that Boone’s lack of symptoms over the past 11 days (as I write this) is due to the fact that he did have a tick-borne infection and we caught it quickly.
The last set of pills are for 15-1/2-year-old Otto. Thank goodness, no antibiotics for him! That’s his morning Tramadol (given twice a day) and Gabapentin (three times a day). He gets a different set at midday: more Gabapentin, an NSAID, and an acid reducer for his chronic acid reflux.
All of this pill administration has made for some very alert and attentive kitchen dogs, who come crowding around every time they see me reach into the refrigerator for the canned food that I bury their pills in. And all I can say is that they are more alert than me; as far as I can recall, I’ve only given the wrong pills (Boone’s doxycycline) to the wrong dog (Otto) once. UGH! I knew it was wrong the moment Otto slurped the gob of canned food out of my hand – but he’s gotten so pushy for his thrice-daily dollops of canned food, and he’s the only one who never gets chastised or sent to the back of the line for this behavior.
You may ask: Why do I have my own antibiotic lined up on the cutting board with the dog meds? Because while I never forget the dogs’ pills, in the first couple of days after having my tooth pulled, I kept forgetting to take mine! Putting my pill bottle alongside theirs is the only way I can be certain to take my own meds. If that sounds lame – well, at least I haven’t taken any of their meds yet!
This canine tooth sustained more than a little chip in a collision with another dog at high speed; it broke nearly in two. While the dog did not exhibit any signs of pain, veterinary dental x-rays showed that the pulp of the tooth sustained damage and the tooth had to be extracted. Photo by Nancy Kerns
A chip or break that exposes a tooth’s pulp – the sensitive tissue that contains the tooth’s nerves and blood supply – will cause obvious discomfort. This calls for urgent care – not necessarily a trip to the after-hours emergency veterinary hospital, but not something that can be put off for weeks, either.
Your dog might exhibit one or more of the following signs of a broken tooth with exposed pulp:
Reacting to hot or cold temperatures (including drinking cold water) with pain
Avoiding chew toys
Declining to eat treats like hard biscuits
Refusing food altogether
Chewing on only one side or more carefully than usual
Drooling an abnormal amount for that dog
Pawing at their mouth
Shying away when the face is petted
These symptoms require a dental checkup, because left untreated, broken teeth with exposed pulp can become infected and lead to degeneration of the jawbone. A tooth with exposed nerves will usually be treated with extraction or a root canal. Vital pulp therapy may keep a recently fractured tooth alive if the patient is under 18 months of age.
Chipped teeth without symptoms
Not all chipped teeth crack or expose the pulp. Dogs might chip a tooth when catching a flying disc, running into something during high-speed play, or smacking into a dashboard when riding unsecured in a car that had to stop suddenly. Even if the chip is small, and your dog doesn’t display any signs of pain or discomfort, it’s a good idea to make a non-urgent appointment with your vet to take a look at the chip. The chip might need to be smoothed to keep from irritating your dog’s lips or tongue– and your vet stands the best chance at getting a good look to make sure the chip isn’t going to lead to a cracked tooth.
Dogs of breeds that were originally developed to hunt or herd tend to thrive on high-mileage exercise plans, making them great partners for jogging or hiking. Photo by Jordan Siemens, Getty Images
Your dog’s age, overall health, and breed define her exercise sweet spot. Puppies and young adults need more exercise while older, ill, or injured dogs need extra down time for rest and recovery. Start gradually when beginning any exercise program with your dog.
Sporting, working, and herding breeds need the most exercise, 1 to 2 hours a day. Terriers, scent hounds, and breeds known for speed thrive on 60 to 90 minutes of movement.
Both toy breeds and giant breeds tend to be less active – they benefit from up to an hour of relaxed walks or gentle games of fetch. Twenty to 30 minutes of slow movement is recommended for brachycephalic breeds like Pugs, French Bulldogs, and Shih Tzus, whose smaller airways interfere with physical activity.
Don’t neglect mental exercise
Overweight, senior, and bracycephalic dogs (like Pugs, Bulldogs, and French Bulldogs) are best exercised in the cooler part of the day and at a slower pace. Photo by SeventyFour, Getty Images
Physical activity helps dogs relax, but so do find-it games, food-dispensing puzzles, and trick training. Include whatever your dog most enjoys in your daily schedule.
How can I tell if my dog needs more exercise?
If your dog is over-excited on walks, restless around the house, barking and whining indoors, play-bowing or trying to initiate play while you’re trying to relax, and unable to relax at night, he’ll probably benefit from longer walks or runs.
What helps older dogs with exercise?
If arthritis slows your older dog, especially if she’s overweight, a weight-loss diet can help. Two or three exercise sessions per day are more comfortable for older dogs than long single sessions. Your veterinarian may prescribe medication or pain-reducing supplements. Low-impact activities, such as swimming or the use of an underwater treadmill, can help older dogs stay in shape without discomfort.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
A popular alternative to cones is a post-op surgical/recovery suit. The suit covers the incision and prevents your dog from licking or chewing the incision. Many companies make these suits, and they’re washable and reusable. The best dog onesies have snaps in the areas of the penis or vulva and the anus so you don’t have to take the suit off when the dog needs to go outside. We compared suits in our 
