Take your puppy on short walks on a loose leash, preferably on grass or dirt. Let the puppy explore the world at her own speed. Credit: Dzmitry Dzmitryieu | Getty Images
For a new puppy who is about 8 weeks old, keep walks to 5 or 10 minutes. Let your puppy choose the speed, and take breaks as needed. If she is tired and doesn’t want to walk, carry her home.
As your puppy gets older, she can gradually take longer walks. A 12-week-old puppy can walk about 15 to 20 minutes. Again, allow your puppy to choose the speed and take plenty of breaks for sniffing. Avoid trying to pull the puppy.
Puppies are still developing their muscles and bones, so long walks can be too hard on their bodies. If you must walk on pavement, keep walks shorter. Walks on grass or dirt are easier on your puppy’s growing bones than pavement.
Increase Walks as Puppy Grows
By 16 weeks of age (4 months old), most puppies can go for 30-minute meandering walks. Increase the time to 45 to 60 minutes as your puppy reaches 6 or 7 months of age.
Hold off on true hikes or long purposeful walks on pavement until your puppy has physically matured.
Long Walks Stress Puppy Bodies
Your puppy’s bones are still growing. She will become physically mature at around 12 months of age for small dogs and around 18 to 24 months for larger dogs. Puppy bones have soft “growth plates” at the ends where new bone is produced as the puppy grows. The growth plates are not as sturdy as mature bone, so they are easier to damage. Even worse, an injured growth plate can cause the bone to stop growing early. This can result in lifelong orthopedic problems.
Free Run Instead
The best exercise for puppies is safely free running. Let your puppy choose her own adventure and play at her own pace.
If you have access to a fenced yard, allow your pup to wander freely, choosing her speed and direction. Stay with her! She will naturally regulate her activity, going fast when she wants to and slowing down when she gets tired.
If you don’t have a fenced yard, let your pup play on a long line of around 15 feet for young puppies in a safe space. Hold the end of the line while she plays, keeping it slack as much as possible.
Longer Walks Will Come
It can be tempting to take your puppy for a long walk to wear her out but resist the urge. Instead, treasure these meandering strolls while her body grows and matures. Try to see the world through your puppy’s eyes and enjoy her antics as she zigzags around the yard and explores her world. Let her learn about the world.
Leave your puppy home and take your older dog or go for a solo outing when you want to take a more purposeful walk and cover ground. When your puppy has matured, you’ll have plenty of time for hikes and long walks, and those healthy joints you nurtured when your dog was a puppy will last a lot longer.
They’re called dry shampoos because you don’t have to rinse them out. You still have to towel-dry the dog or brush him out. Overall dry shampoos don’t really save time. Credit: Dorottya Mathe | Getty Images
If your dog sort of, well, stinks and you don’t want to give a real bath, you may ask yourself, “Can I use dry shampoo on my dog?” The answer is simple: Yes, you can use dry shampoo on your dog. The bigger question is, “Should you use dry shampoo on a dog?”
Dry shampoos for dogs, also known as waterless or no-rinse shampoos, deodorize your dog—and that’s about it. So, while these products may help in a pinch with an odor, they don’t clean your dog. You’re not truly removing any of the dirt from the dog’s skin. The dry formulations may absorb some of the excess oils in your dog’s coat, but your dog will not look freshly bathed. He won’t be shiny and bright with a glossy, flowing coat. He’ll just smell better for a while. Maybe.
How to Use a Dry Dog Shampoo
Most dry shampoos are not powders that you sprinkle on your dog. They’re foams or sprays you work into the dog’s coat, like human hair mousse products.
The word “dry” refers to the fact you don’t need water. These products are not a whole lot easier to use than a real shampoo, except, of course, you don’t need to rinse. You also generally still must towel-dry the dog, or if you did choose a powder dry shampoo, comb your dog’s hair. Dry shampoos are not time-savers!
Choosing a Dry Shampoo for Your Dog
We don’t recommend dry shampoos, but if you insist on using one, there’s one main thing to avoid: Don’t buy any product that’s delivered in a container that uses a propellant. Personal care products that come in cans, including human hair mousse and pet dry shampoos, often contain petroleum distillate propellants like propane or butane. And benzene, a cancer-causing chemical, is a common contaminant of petroleum distillates. Powdered or manual pump-spray products are safer.
Choosing a product formulated for dogs is an absolute must. Look for dry shampoos for dogs that contain only natural ingredients that help deodorize your dog. (Remember, regular shampoos are only on the dog’s coat for a minute or two and then thoroughly rinsed away; dry stuff stays in the dog’s coat until you give him a real bath or he goes swimming.)
Still, we advise you to only use a dry shampoo when there’s no other choice because, really, there are no shortcuts for a good, healthy bath.
The first thing that didn’t seem right when I woke up at around 6 am was that Boone was not asleep on the dog bed that’s in my bedroom. He’s the only one of my dogs who has decided that he would rather sleep near me than on one of the couches or the giant Snoozer dog bed in the living room. But last Thursday morning, he was not in his regular spot.
I got up and went looking to see where he might be – just curious, not worried. He can sleep wherever he wants! I found him curled up on the Snoozer – odd, but not unthinkable. I greeted all three dogs, and opened the front door so they could go outside and pee. But only my two older dogs got up to go outside. Now, that IS weird. Fifteen-month-old Boone is usually jamming his nose in the gap between the door and the frame, cramming his body outside before anyone else. He loves being the first dog outside, so he can joyously race across the lawn, hoping to surprise an unwary squirrel on the ground and make the robins fly. But on this day, he stayed curled up, just looking up at me with his eyes, not even raising his head. “Hey buddy,” I said to him. “What’s up with you?”
I grabbed the dog bowls and headed over to where I keep the dog food. This was the big test, because Boone always – and I mean always – accompanies me to fill the dog bowls. He watches my every move, hovering near the bowls. He doesn’t help himself to the food I measure out, but gets to grab for and scarf up any stray kibbles that hit the ground as I scoop and pour the food into the three bowls. But on this day, he stayed on the dog bed as I prepared the dogs’ meals.
I called Boone over to me. He got up very stiffly, noticeably limping on his right front leg. His head was down. When he stopped walking, he stood in a strange stance, with his right front leg turned at a weird angle. He looked miserable.
I sat on the floor in front of him and did a quick exam. Did he have a cut on his paw, a thorn, a broken toenail? No. Did he have any cuts or scrapes? No. Did he flinch when I pressed and flexed the various joints in his ankle, elbow, or shoulder? Also no. But when I got up and asked him to follow me outside, he moved very stiffly and slowly, not at all like his usual bouncy self. I watched as he urinated – it seemed like the usual color – and then asked him to come back into the house.
I went straight back to my bedroom and got dressed. The closest emergency veterinary hospital is about 30 minutes away and they open at 7 am. If I left right away, we could be there within a few minutes of opening and stand a chance of getting seen before 10 am. I don’t know what was wrong with him, but given that this was on a Thursday before a holiday weekend, I didn’t want to take any chances. As I drove, I thought to myself that I should have taken his temperature before I headed to the vet, but on the other hand, then I wouldn’t be close to first in line at the ER.
My plan paid off; I wasn’t first, but was among the first people there, and they had an opening. We were in a room by 8 am. A technician took his vital signs – and he had a normal temperature. Whew! That ruled some things out. But Boone was definitely not himself. Instead of checking out the room or bugging me for attention and petting, he sat across the room from me, leaning on the wall, head down. When I told him to lie down, he ignored the cue and continued to sit.
When the doctor came in, Boone greeted the doctor in a very low-energy way. The doctor noticed his limp and his strange stance. The doctor also listened to his breathing and heart and palpated his abdomen, but said, “His posture is weird. I wouldn’t be surprised if he hurt his elbow, the way he’s standing. But I’d like to take him in the back and lay him on a table, to rotate and move his shoulder and elbow. And we might need to take some x-rays – but I’ll let you know.”
Within 10 minutes or so, the doctor was back. “Boone didn’t have any trouble with flexing or rotating any joint,” he said. “It’s weird. While it’s possible that he has a hairline fracture or something, I think it’s more likely that he strained or pulled something. I’d like to send him home with some carprofen (an NSAID); let’s see if this resolves in a couple of days of rest – and if it doesn’t, bring him back and we’ll take some x-rays.”
But as the doctor was talking, I was looking at Boone, who was again sitting and leaning against the wall, head down, eyes half-closed. “I feel like there is something else going on!” I said. “This is usually a very energetic 15-month-old dog! Look at his eyes! He’s closing them! He just looks so dopey!”
The vet sort of cut me a look at that last phrase. Until I spontaneously said the word “dopey,” I hadn’t even considered the possibility of Boone having ingested something intoxicating – mostly because neither my husband nor I use any form of cannabis, nor any other type of opiate or medication. I hastily added, “We don’t have any dope on the property! There’s absolutely nothing to get into – no medications, no recreational drugs, nothing!”
“He does seem awfully subdued,” the vet said. He checked the chart, and asked the technician about Boone’s temperature. “It was normal?” he asked. “And you got a good temp, no messing around?” She assured him that she had the thermometer all the way in for the full length of time – that the reading was good.
I asked about various issues that were caused by tick bites (such as tick paralysis) or carried by ticks (such as Lyme disease or anaplasmosis); I had walked Boone and Woody the day before in a particularly tick-infested area. However, I hadn’t let either dog off leash (because we kept spotting deer) and we were walking on a wide dirt road – not many chances to come into contact with the brush or grass that ticks are generally waiting on. And I hadn’t seen any ticks on either Boone or Woody the night before. The doctor said that tick paralysis affects the back legs first – a limp in the front ruled that out. And while a limp could be a sign of a tick-borne disease, a limp that moved from one limb to another (because all the dog’s joints were painful) was more classic – and the dog would most likely have a fever. He said, “It might be helpful to run some blood tests, to see if anything is out of the ordinary. We can check for tick-borne disease, and he’s due for a heartworm test. Let’s get all that, give him the carprofen for a few days, and see where we are after that. But of course, bring him back if he gets worse!” I agreed; maybe the test results would shine some light on this strange, nonspecific malady.
I drove home, and offered Boone the chewable carprofen. I was heartened when he ate it readily, as well as the breakfast that he hadn’t been interested in earlier. But not long after that, he went back to the Snoozer dog bed, and resumed sitting in that weird position, head down, eyes closing. And when I told him to lie down, he again ignored me. He didn’t want to lie down for some reason. We had been home for about 45 minutes when I called the vet again, asking if I could bring Boone back. The receptionist said they could see him again at 12:30. We had to wait 2½ hours – but at least they could see him.
Fortunately, over the next couple of hours, Boone began perking up. When we went out to my office, he went into the big soft crate with the other favorite dog bed in our home, the Wash ’N’ Zip Pet Bed, and lay down, instead of continuing to sit in that strange pose. And when I went to get some coffee from the house, he volunteered to come with me, and it looked like he wasn’t limping as much. Could the carprofen be working that quickly, I wondered? After I got my coffee, I walked around with Boone outside until he went poop; I was relieved to see that it looked normal.
By noon, he was back to sitting in front of my office door looking through the glass like he normally does. I called the veterinary hospital and told them I was sorry for the inconvenience, but that I would not be bringing him back after all; it seemed like he was feeling better.
By that evening, Boone was behaving 100% normally – normal energy, normal appetite, normal gaits (no limp whatsoever). And he’s been fine ever since. What the heck?!
The next day, the vet called to report that all Boone’s blood values were normal, he was heartworm negative, and his tick-borne disease titers were negative.
I’m thrilled that nothing more seems to be wrong with my young dog, but I’m still mystified as to what all that could have been about, and concerned that something is lurking and might resurface. He looked seriously ill for a couple hours – and his limp was not in my imagination; everyone saw it. Did he just have a sprain, and was being the world’s biggest wimp about it? Could he have eaten something intoxicating that someone had thrown over the fence – and the limp was a coincidence? The vet said he didn’t show any signs of discomfort in his gut, but his strange posture and reluctance to lie down made me feel like something was uncomfortable in his tummy. Unless any of these symptoms recur, I’ll never know.
At-home puzzle scent toys for dogs are great fun. Credit Lenti Hill | Getty Images
Scent games for dogs are sweeping the canine nation at home and in competitions because they’re just so much fun. Any dog can play scent games, and it doesn’t take a lot to set up a game.
The world is a treasure trove of scents for dogs. Scent is a natural way for them to sense the world and to be enriched. That’s why we encourage you to let your dog sniff when you go on walks together. It’s how he gets his news! A dog’s ability smell things is an important part of being a dog.
Because a dog’s sense of smell is so much better than ours, it is easy to get them in the spirit of nose work type games. From puppies to seniors, dogs love to smell and find the prize.
Home Scent Games for Dogs
The easiest way to start with scent games is to use food treats. Hide a treat in a box or put a treat under a cup along with two empty cups (yes, like the old “shell game”) and then let him find it.
You can make a simple food puzzle at home by hiding some treats in a muffin tin, then covering the holes with tennis balls. Of course, ball-loving dogs may quickly grab the ball and run off, not even realizing there’s food, so you may have to “explain” it to him at first.
You can also hide a treat or a favorite toy in one room and then let your dog in to search. Dogs just naturally pick up on these types of games. You may even be able to make your own dog scent toys.
Dogs love these activities, and scent games have low risk for physical injury, so they are great for puppies and seniors. These games are also good for dogs who are confined due to illness or recovery.
Scent Work Competitions
If you want to participate in formal canine scent sports, more training is required, but this sport is growing quickly for good reason—dogs and handlers both enjoy the tests.
These scent games tend to use essential oils for the scents, starting with birch oil for the lowest levels. You start by giving your dog a positive association with the scent, pairing the scent with a treat. Dogs quickly figure out that if they indicate where the scent is they will get a great treat or some tug play if they prefer that.
You can move on to hiding the scent indoors, outdoors, in containers, or even buried in sand or water. At the beginning levels, only one scented “hide” is in a search area. Additional scents are later added, such as anise and clove, so the dog must find more than one scented object.
We have all heard the old adage, “You are what you eat.” The same can be said for our dog’s poop and its color. If your dog munches on grass or you add canned pumpkin to one or more of his daily meals, these additions can cause green or orange poop. But there are times when poop that isn’t brown may be an indication of an underlying health issue. Check the chart below to determine when your dog’s poop color should prompt a visit to his veterinarian. Note that the actual color of the feces won’t exactly resemble that of our PlayDoh facsimiles, but you should get the idea!
Green dog poop: Your dog may have green poop if he has been eating grass or enjoys eating leafy greens, such as kale or spinach. Some dental chews – such as OraVet or Greenies – will turn the color of a dog’s poop light green. A dog who has recently consumed rat or mouse poison might have fluorescent green poop. But a dog who has not eaten anything green recently may have green poop because of a nutrient absorption problem in the small intestine, such as inflammatory bowel disease, protein-losing enteropathy, or intestinal parasites. Make an appointment with your dog’s veterinarian and bring a stool sample to screen for intestinal parasites.
Orange dog poop: Just like with green poop, the pigments present in certain foods can turn a dog’s poop orange in color. This includes foods rich in beta-carotenes, such as carrots, squash, and canned pumpkin. But if these foods are not a part of your dog’s diet, then orange poop may be an indication of underlying gallbladder or liver disease. Make an appointment with your dog’s veterinarian, especially if the orange poop is soft and if your dog is vomiting and not eating.
Yellow dog poop: Yellow poop is not normal and is typically not caused by pigments found in food. Yellow poop that is formed can be an indication of liver or gallbladder disease. Yellow diarrhea is typically an indication of intestinal disease. Your dog needs to be seen by his veterinarian as soon as possible.
Red dog poop: If your dog is one of those rare canines who enjoys eating beets, then the pigment in beets will cause your dog’s poop to be shades of red or purple. But for all other dogs, red poop or red streaks on poop is a sign of disease in the large intestine (colon) or rectum. Your dog needs to be seen by his veterinarian or an emergency veterinarian immediately.
Black dog poop: Black, tarry stool is caused by bleeding in the stomach or small intestine. Your dog should be seen by his veterinarian or an emergency veterinarian immediately. The only time that black poop is normal is if your dog has recently been administered activated charcoal by his veterinarian. Activated charcoal is given to dogs that have ingested certain toxins, like chocolate or mouse poison.
Grey dog poop: Grey poop is always abnormal and is an indication of an issue with your dog’s pancreas. You may also notice greasy poop, diarrhea, and weight loss. Make an appointment with your dog’s veterinarian as soon as possible.
Brown dog poop with white spots: Those little white spots in your dog’s poop may be intestinal parasites, such as roundworm or tapeworm. Bring a stool sample to your dog’s veterinarian and have it tested for intestinal parasites.
Not all non-brown poop is cause for alarm. But, as you can see, some colors may indicate a serious underlying problem. Talk to your dog’s veterinarian if you have any concerns about his poop color.
When you cut your dog’s nails, only clip a little off at a time. If the dog’s nails are still too long, trim again in a week. Firn | Getty Images
Your dog’s nails provide traction and digging power even when they are short. The longer they get, the higher the risk that they may cause injuries. Nails clicking on the kitchen floor is a signal that it’s past time for a nail trim.
How long should a dog’s nails be? The correct dog nail length is short. Nails shouldn’t touch the ground when your dog is standing still. As your dog runs and flexes her feet on the move, the short nails will still contact the ground to give her a good grip.
Long Nails Can Cause Pain
Dog nails that are too long can impact how your dog walks. As the nail grows outward, it will also curve. A tight curve will eventually curl all the way around and start growing into your dog’s foot pad – ouch! This is painful and can lead to infections.
Even slightly curved nails are problematic. As the nails continue to grow, they gradually curve more and more. The dog’s feet will tip back to accommodate the long nails, changing your dog’s posture. This abnormal stance changes how your dog’s joints line up and can contribute to pain and joint disorders.
Dog nails that are allowed to grow without regular cutting will begin to curl around, back toward the paw. Credit zhihao | Getty Images
How to Tell if a Dog’s Nails Are Too Long
For many dog owners, nails clicking on the kitchen floor is the signal that it is time for a nail trim.
Another sign may be splayed, flat-looking feet. Some dogs have this conformation naturally, but regular nail trims to get them short over time can help the paw tighten up in some cases.
Nails getting caught in blankets, carpeting, or clothing can also be a sign that they are too long.
Dog Nail Trims Take Patience
You probably won’t be able to get your dog’s nails to their ideal length in one sitting, especially if they have been growing unchecked for a long time. Set a recurring alert on your phone to trim your dog’s nails at least once a week, taking off as much as you can safely each time. For dogs with black nails, just trim a little bit so you don’t have to worry about hitting the quick and hurting your dog.
Context matters when it comes to a toothy expression from your dog; not every display of teeth is an aggressive snarl. Photo by GlobalP, Getty Images
There are a number of situations during which a dog may show his teeth – and the ones that involve aggression are few. Dogs may bare their teeth as an appeasement gesture (which looks like a sheepish grin), during dog-dog play (perfectly appropriate!), or to communicate discomfort or stress (in which case, you should be careful, because he’s asking for space). While these are all normal dog behaviors, each of these tooth-display scenarios begs a different response from you, depending on the circumstances.
What to do when your dog shows teeth
Determine which of the above is the cause of your dog’s dental display and respond accordingly as follows.
Appeasement grin: This can happen when a dog feels pressured or intimidated. The majority of dogs never do this – and a very small percentage do it a lot. If you see other appeasement signals (head turn; lowered body posture; body leaning backward, behind the vertical) it’s likely a smile, not a snarl. Relax your own body posture (stop acting so assertive or pushy!), turn sideways, smile, talk softly, and assure your dog he’s not in trouble.
Dog-dog play: If both dogs enjoy tooth play, let it be! If one seems overwhelmed, give the dogs a cheerful timeout break, and then let them go back to playing. If one is consistently overwhelmed, find each dog new play partners.
Discomfort or stress: Like the growl, a toothy snarl is a sign of aggression. Like the growl, it’s actually a good thing. It’s an escalation in intensity from the growl, but your dog is still trying very hard to NOT bite you. He’s saying, “You’re making me really uncomfortable; please stop what you’re doing.” So stop whatever is stressing him! If what you’re doing is something that must be done (such as toothbrushing or nail-trimming), take the time to help him learn to be happy about it. (Here’s an example of what to do to improve your dog’s response to nail-trimming. Take the same approach, using counter-conditioning and desensitization, for any procedure your doesn’t currently feel comfortable with.)
Whatever the reason for your dog’s teeth display, never, ever punish him for this. You want him to feel comfortable communicating with you, so you can figure out why he’s showing teeth and take whatever steps are appropriate.
Pica in dogs is when your canine eats dumb stuff that isn’t food. Credit: Paul Miskiw / Eye Em | Getty Images
Pica in dogs is when your dog eats abnormal things, as in stuff that isn’t food. Pica is a compulsive behavior in people, and it may be in dogs, too, but science hasn’t proven that. For true pica, your dog must eat the item, not just chew it (poop eating is a separate issue).
Pica is not something you can ignore. Dogs who eat dumb stuff often end up at the veterinarian’s office for emergency surgery due to blockages. Don’t overreact if your dog picks up something, however. Yelling or chasing your dog causes many dogs to do a quick swallow to ensure you can’t get their treasure.
Causes of Pica in Dogs
According to a 2019 study in the Journal of Veterinary Medical Science, pica is one of the most often reported behavioral issues in dogs. Not surprisingly, this study found the behavior was more likely in younger dogs. What was interesting is that it was found to be more likely in neutered dogs. The study involved 2,000 cases based on an online survey.
Veterinarians at the University of California at Davis cite nutritional deficiencies and anxiety problems are the most likely causes.
Cornell University’s world-renowned behavior expert Katherine Houpt, VMD, said in her column in Cornell DogWatch that pica is becoming related to the dog not feeling well: “Recently, the evidence is beginning to accumulate that the animals who do this have a gastrointestinal problem, especially an upper gastro-intestinal problem.”
A veterinary examination with any necessary testing may be in order.
Treatments for Pica
To truly treat something, you need to know its cause, but without a proven cause, veterinarians must guess. A thorough understanding of what you’re seeing in your dog’s pica may help. Some studies indicate dogs who eat dirt and rocks might respond to a vitamin/mineral supplement.
Dr. Houpt says trying food-dispensing toys may distract the dog and satisfy any food-seeking desires. She also recommended considering a high-fiber diet, such as any weight-loss foods.
For dogs battling anxiety issues, there are prescription medications your veterinarian can recommend that may help with pica.
Training for Pica Control
Given that boredom and anxiety are high on the pica causes list, make sure your dog is engaged, enriched, and as stress-free as possible. Lots of exercise is important.
Try to limit and control your dog’s access to the object of his desire, which admittedly can be difficult with something as ubiquitous as rocks. You can:
Use a basket muzzle. This can be a lifesaver, once your dog is properly and happily conditioned to it.
Teach your dog a solid “leave it.” With “leave it,” your dog should be rewarded in some way for ignoring the item of desire. If he seeks out a rock on a walk, you can notice he’s looking at it, tell him to leave it, and then reward him.
“Trade” is a cue you can teach that is especially useful for when your dog beats you to the prize. It’s important that you have a trade item of equali or higher value than what your dog has.
Finally, if your dog shows any signs of a blockage—vomiting, diarrhea, pain, not eating, no poop, weakness—contact your veterinarian immediately.
Pica in Puppies
Pica in puppies can be different from pica in adult dogs. Puppies explore the world by putting things in their mouths, which includes rocks, socks, and literally anything they can fit in their mouths. Most puppies outgrow pica and “puppy proofing” your house and yard can help avoid it until they do.
Fluoxetine is a medication prescribed by many veterinarians for dog aggression. Credit: Tatyana | Getty Images.
Fluoxetine is a selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor (SSRI) that is FDA-approved for treating separation anxiety in dogs. It is also sometimes prescribed for aggressive dogs, general anxiety, and compulsive disorders in dogs.
Fluoxetine is commonly known under its brand names Reconcile (chewable veterinary tablet), Prozac, and Sarafem.
Medication for Aggressive Dogs
If you’re looking for medication for an aggressive dog, fluoxetine is a strong choice. Be advised, however, that aggression in dogs is extremely difficult to treat successfully, even with the help of medication and compliance with a professionally guided behavior-modification program from a fear-free trainer.
Aggression in dogs as a behavior issue always carries a guarded prognosis. Even with improvement, these dogs can still be dangerous and should always be carefully managed with the safety of both humans and other dogs in mind.
Fluoxetine for Dogs Dosage
The FDA-approved fluoxetine dosage for dogs is 1 to 2 mg/kg by mouth once a day. With safe rounding, this translates to 5 to 10 mg for a 10-lb. dog, 20 to 40 mg for a 50-lb. dog, and 40 to 80 mg for a 90-lb. dog. Your veterinarian usually will start low, even as low as 0.5 mg/kg once a day, for the first couple of weeks to minimize side effects and allow your dog to acclimate to the medication. The dose is ramped up from there, as needed.
Fluoxetine for Dogs Side Effects
Reported fluoxetine side effects in dogs include:
Lethargy
Vomiting
Diarrhea
Lack of appetite
Observed possible side effects include:
Seizures (cause and effect is not proven)
Unusual aggressive behavior
Restlessness
Shaking
Panting
Confusion
Vocalizing
Drooling
If your dog exhibits any of these side effects, contact your veterinarian. Sometimes starting with a lower dose resolves the issue, with subsequent higher dosages better tolerated. Fluoxetine can be given with or without food, so if your dog vomits or stops eating after trying it one way, you may be advised to try it the other way. See also “Anti-Anxiety Medications for Dogs.”
Darwin’s Ark is a nonprofit scientific research project that offers mixed-breed dog breed identification tests.
A couple of weeks ago I wrote about a story that had been widely shared on social media about mixed breed dog DNA tests. The story had been generated by a Canadian news organization, which had conducted an investigation into the tests, by submitting DNA from three dogs and one human to four companies offering these tests. The results were widely reported as being crazily false – and the results from two of the vendors were bananas, but there were actually pretty good results from the two leading vendors of these tests (Wisdom Panel and Embark), with the latter’s results being, as far as I was concerned, spot-on!
Neither the Canadian news station nor I mentioned the only nonprofit purveyor of mixed-breed DNA tests. Today I’m trying to correct that, as well as promote their services for entirely selfish reasons.
Darwin’s Ark is a nonprofit scientific research project that offers mixed-breed dog breed identification tests – but, more seriously, the project is using dog DNA in order to find answers to common health and behavioral issues in dogs, with implications for human health and medicine. It’s the brainchild of geneticist Elinor K. Karlsson, a professor of Bioinformatics and Integrative Biology at the University of Massachusetts Chan Medical School, and the Director of Vertebrate Genomics at the Broad Institute of Harvard and MIT. Karlsson’s current projects include the Zoonomia Project, an international effort led by the Vertebrate Genomics group at the Broad Institute to compare hundreds of different mammalian genomes and identify critically important segments of DNA. She is also studying recent human evolution to find the genetic variation that makes some people resistant to ancient infectious diseases, like cholera.
Karlsson has a special interest in diseases shared between humans and dogs. She leads the citizen science-driven Darwin’s Dogs project, which invites dog owners to participate directly in research exploring the genetic basis of dog behavior, as well as diseases such as OCD and cancer.
There’s a very good article about Karlsson’s work here, written by sometime WDJ contributor Jessica Hekman, DVM, who studies the genomics of dog behavior at the University of Illinois, Urbana, and who is a post-doctoral associate who works on the Darwin’s Dogs project.
Darwin’s Ark is collecting DNA samples from as many dogs as they can get their hands on, and the DNA will be available for use by all the Darwin’s Ark researchers in any of the fascinating and meaningful studies they are conducting. One focuses on working dogs: assistance dogs, military dogs, SAR dogs, bomb detection dogs and more. The Darwin’s Ark website describes, “Our goal is to find genetic markers for the behavioral traits that make successful military and working dogs. By using new genetic technology, and working closely with dog breeders and trainers, we want to be able to select the right dog for the right job.”
They also have a cancer study in progress. “By studying cancer in dogs, we’re working to help both people and dogs survive cancer. Dogs get many different types of cancer, and many of these cancers look and behave like human cancers. Canine cancers are also treated with many of the same drugs and other treatments that humans receive. Additionally, some cancers that are very rare in people are more common and easier to study in dogs. Together, we’ll be learning more about why dogs get cancer and the best ways to help them. We plan to study risk factors passed down from parents to puppies, test methods to detect cancer in a blood sample, and compare exposures to potential cancer risk factors in each dog’s home and surrounding areas.”
All canine DNA submitted to Darwin’s Ark – including that submitted in search of identifying the breeds in a mixed-breed dog – will go into a pool of data that can be accessed by the scientists working with Darwin’s Ark, for strictly noncommercial purposes. Darwin’s Ark makes a big point that this is all open science: “We are a non-profit that subscribes to the open science model. This means we do not own and will never sell your pet’s data. You contribute to an open source database and we share all the new discoveries we find freely with you and researchers around the world. Together we can advance health care for pets and their humans.”
You can participate in Darwin’s Ark’s research by submitting your dog’s DNA to Darwin’s Ark for free; they just ask you to answer a number of surveys about your dog’s health and behavior. Once you’re answered 10 surveys, Darwin’s Ark will ship a DNA collection kit to you for free. Once returned, they sequence the DNA from the saliva and send you genetic and ancestry information about your pet – but the timetable for receiving these results for free depends entirely on the funding Darwin’s Ark receives as a result of its constant grant-writing. If you submit information about your dog and return the DNA collection kit that you requested for free, it may take years for you to receive any answers.
However, Darwin’s Ark now offers a paid service that will return the results of a mixed-breed identification test to you on a more prompt schedule. Yippee! For $149, Darwin’s Ark will send you a DNA collection kit that you return in a postage-paid envelope – and you’ll receive the results faster. . . but since this is not a commercial enterprise, the timetable of your results will depend on the number of paid samples they receive. Darwin’s Ark doesn’t run DNA tests on individual dogs, but will run the tests any time they have a batch of 20 paid-for DNA samples.
We’re finally at that place of self-interest that I mentioned earlier.
As I mentioned in the previous blog post about mixed-breed dog identification tests, I had DNA for my dogs Woody and Otto analyzed by both Embark and Wisdom Panel, and have shared the very similar results. I also sent DNA from my youngest dog, Boone, to Wisdom Panel. A few weeks ago, I submitted Boone’s DNA to Embark and to the paid service offered by Darwin’s Ark. I’ll share the results of those tests when I receive them, but as I learned when I checked with Darwin’s Ark, to see when I might expect results from them, their results will arrive promptly after they have received a total of 20 paid tests and run them as a batch.
If you’re interested in getting a mixed-breed dog identification test done on your dog – especially if you’re interested in science and would love to contribute to open-source science involving dogs and being conducted by scientists all over the world – consider getting a paid DNA test from Darwin’s Ark! You can read more about how to order the tests and what Darwin’s Ark is doing with its data here. And when Darwin’s Ark sends me results on Boone’s DNA, I’ll share that with you – and would be happy to also share any results you receive from your dogs that you send us. It would be fun!
Darwin’s Ark explains the difference between the methodology of how its tests are run versus the how the commercial labs get their results; it sounds like Darwin’s results will be much more complete than those offered by Embark and Wisdom Panel. According to the Darwin’s Ark website, “We generate about 9,000,000 markers for each dog for our research. Our breed ancestry panel currently uses 688,060 of those markers. We are limited in the number of markers we can use for breed ancestry, because the algorithm we use requires that every dog in our breed panel have the same number of markers.”
For comparison, this information is from the Embark website: “Embark is the only canine genetics company that uses a research-grade genotyping technology. The Embark dog DNA test is based on the Illumina CanineHD microarray, which has long been the leading research platform for dog genetics. Our dog DNA test analyzes 230,000 genetic markers. That’s more than twice as much genetic data as the competition.”
I am eager to learn more and compare the results for my dog from Wisdom Panel, Embark, and now Darwin’s Ark. Are you, too?
Does your dog drive you nuts every fall when the time changes for daylight saving? Start a couple of weeks in advance of the time change to prepare him for the shift. Photo by Jaromir Chalabala/EyeEm, Getty Images
If you live in a country that observes daylight saving time, you’re likely familiar with the intense stares of hungry dogs, certain they’re starving, and willing you, with every ounce of their being, to feed them, stat!
As you prepare to “fall back” this season, the following tips can help smooth the transition for your animal friends:
Don’t be so predictable. We humans often love routines, but it’s the predictability of our daily routines that leads our dogs to expect meals as a specific time. Rather than establish the pattern of feeding your dog at 6 a.m. and 5:30 p.m., whenever possible, establish a window of time within which your dogs will be fed, and randomize exact feeling times within that window. With this method, your dog learns to trust that meals consistently happen, but he’s less likely to become insistent as the clock approaches a specific time.
Prepare for the time change. If changing your scheduled from a set feeding time to a meal window doesn’t work for your household, start preparing your dog for the time change a month or so in advance. Feed your dog 10 minutes later than usual for one week, then 20 minutes later than usual, then 30 minutes later, and so on, until the time changes and, suddenly, the one-hour time difference doesn’t feel like that big of a deal.
Occupy your dog’s mind. Help your dog take his mind off the delayed meal by going on a light walk or doing some training in the hour between when his body tells him it’s mealtime and when the clock supports his request. Make sure your dog’s breathing has fully returned to normal before feeding to help prevent gastric dilatation and volvulus, also known as “bloat,” which is thought to be caused, in part, by gulping air during meals.
With a little preplanning, you and your dog can both enjoy a smoother transition away from daylight saving time and into standard time. Another tip: When the time change finds you out walking well after the sun has set, help keep yourself and your dog safe with high visibility gear.
An interdigital cyst (more accurately called a furuncle) is caused by infected hair follicle. There are numerous reasons that a hair follicle may become infected, including anything as random as an embedded grass awn, to being overweight or having certain types of leg conformation. Photo by Jennifer Bailey, DVM.
Does your dog have a tender, raised, round, red nodule between his toes that’s obviously causing him pain? This cyst on your dog’s paw is most likely what’s commonly called an interdigital cyst.
“Interdigital cyst” is a misnomer; cysts are thin-walled sac that contains fluid. The painful lumps found between a dog’s toes are more accurately called a furuncle – also known as a boil – and is caused by an infected hair follicle. Your veterinarian may refer to this condition as interdigital furunculosis.
A hair follicle is a shaft or opening in the skin through which a hair grows. An interdigital cyst develops when a hair follicle becomes infected. These cysts most often develop on the top side of the webbing between the toes but can also appear on the underside of the webbing between the paw pads.
Causes of interdigital cysts
The most common cause of an interdigital cyst is trauma from the very hair that sits inside the follicle. Some breeds of dogs, including the Chinese Shar Pei, Labrador Retriever, and English Bulldog, have short, stiff hairs on the webbing between their toes. Taking an awkward step can drive one of these bristly hairs backwards into the hair follicle. This is called an ingrown hair.
This may seem odd, but hair is very irritating to the deeper layers of skin. The primary component of hair is keratin. When keratin enters the skin around the hair follicle, it causes an inflammatory reaction. The skin around the follicle becomes swollen and closes off part of the follicle. Bacteria inside the follicle become trapped and grow, causing an infected follicle and the formation of an interdigital cyst.
A misstep is not the only cause of traumatic ingrown hairs. Dogs who have varus (where the forelimb is rotated so that the elbow juts outward) or valgus (where the front paws are turned outward from the wrist of their forelimbs) – either due to their breed or an angular limb deformity – are more likely to develop interdigital cysts. Dogs who have varus or valgus are more likely to bear weight on the webbing between their toes rather than just the paw pads. This increases the likelihood of driving hairs back into the hair follicle, resulting in an interdigital cyst.
Dogs who are overweight are more likely to bear weight on the webbing between their toes when walking or running. So are dogs whose gait has been altered by osteoarthritis.
Interdigital cysts can also be caused by stepping on a thorn or a burr. Grass awns and foxtails can enter the webbing between a dog’s toes and cause an interdigital cyst.
Any condition that causes your dog to excessively lick his paws can also lead to the formation of interdigital cysts. This includes demodicosis, atopic dermatitis, and bacterial and fungal infections. See the “Seriously Itchy Paws” for more information about what may be causing your dog’s paws itch.
Interdigital cysts typically require nothing more than a physical examination to diagnose and treat. But if your dog has more than one cyst, has recurring cysts, or cysts do not respond to conventional treatment, then your veterinarian may order diagnostics to determine the underlying problem. These diagnostics may include a biopsy of one or more cysts, a skin scrape cytology to look for Demodex mites, or a bacteria culture and sensitivity to determine the correct antibiotic.
Treatment for interdigital cysts
Single cysts may be treated with a topical antibiotic. Your veterinarian may prescribe a medicated cleanser, such as one containing chlorhexidine, to clean the cyst and the skin around it. Your dog may need to wear an Elizabethan collar (the cone of shame!) to prevent him from licking the cyst as it heals. An analgesic should be prescribed to reduce your dog’s pain and discomfort. Having multiple cysts or a single cyst that does not respond to topical treatment may require an oral antibiotic.
Photobiomodulation (also known as PBM or laser therapy) and fluorescence biomodulation (FBM) are therapies that may be used in addition to topical or oral antibiotics to treat interdigital cysts. Both therapies use specific wavelengths of light to reduce pain and inflammation and stimulate healing. PBM is available at many general practices whereas FBM may only be available at specialty hospitals or veterinary universities.
Dogs who do not respond to medical management may require surgical removal of their interdigital cysts. Removing a cyst with traditional surgical techniques requires removing the skin around the cyst and may alter the conformation of a dog’s paw. Alternatively, interdigital cysts can be vaporized with a carbon dioxide laser (CO2 laser). This allows for removal of only the affected tissue and has a better outcome but may require multiple treatments to fully resolve the issue.
Prevention of interdigital cysts
There are a number of strategies you can implement to minimize the risk of your dog developing interdigital cysts. If your dog is overweight, talk to your veterinarian about the most effecive way to manage a weight loss program for your dog. Avoid walking through areas that contain thorns, prickers, grass awns, and foxtails. If your dog excessively licks his paws, make an appointment with his veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and appropriate treatment.
Keep your dog’s paws clean and dry; excess moisture can lead to bacterial and fungal skin infections. Your veterinarian may prescribe a medicated wipe that can be used daily. Inspect your dog’s paws regularly for any redness or small bumps so that issues can be addressed early before they become big, painful problems.
When is a seizure not a seizure?
My dog, Prince, and I had just finished our morning walk when I noticed he was favoring his front right paw. He had not shown any lameness on our walk, but now, all of a sudden, he was gingerly walking on his paw and licking a spot between his toes.
Examination of his paw revealed a red, swollen lump between his digits. Over the next few days, the lump got bigger and started leaking a clear yellow fluid. My own dog had an interdigital cyst! I started Prince on a course of antibiotics and several days of an analgesic. The lump began to shrink and resolve, and about a week later, the lump between his toes had completely disappeared and Prince was back to his normal self. Your dog can also recover with appropriate treatment prescribed by your veterinarian.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
