Patience is key when it comes to trick training and teaching your dog to play dead is no different. Credit: FatCamera | Getty Images
Tricks are great crowd pleasers, and teaching your dog a trick is a fun way to bond. If “play dead” is on your tricks wish list, here’s what you need to know to achieve a star-worthy performance.
Getting Started
This trick is easiest to teach using a food lure. Use treats your dog is excited about. Small pieces of a soft treat work best.
Using a food lure requires your dog to follow a treat in your hand. Think of your treat as a magnet and your dog’s nose as the refrigerator. As you move the treat, keep the magnet on the fridge! A common mistake is to move the food too fast, breaking the connection between the magnet and the fridge and losing the dog’s focus in the process.
If training with a food lure is new for your or your dog, work on your treat-magnet/nose-fridge connection, and practice guiding your dog using only the lure. Remember: If you break the magnetic connection, you’re moving the food too fast.
Using a treat to turn your dog’s head toward one hip will prompt a weight shift to the opposite hip. Credit: Courtesy of Stephanie Colman
Step One: Rest on a Hip
Begin with your dog lying down. If her weight is balanced over both rear feet, we want to lure her onto her side so that her weight is on one hip.
With your treat magnet on her nose, slowly turn her head toward her hip. If turning her head toward her right hip, she should shift her weight onto her left hip. If turning her head toward her left hip, the weight shift will be onto her right hip. If your dog understands a marker (like “Yes!” or a clicker), mark the moment the weight shift happens and deliver the treat. If you don’t use a marker, just deliver the treat.
Take your time and be prepared to accept baby steps along the way toward getting the full weight transfer onto the hip. Some dogs are perfectly comfortable following the food and flopping on their hip, and some aren’t. If your dog seems confused or uncomfortable, reward the smallest variation of the desired behavior and ask for more as your dog becomes more comfortable.
Practice this step until you can lure you dog onto her hip in one fluid motion.
Step Two: Melt Onto Her Side
Caption: Once your dog has shifted her weight onto one hip, arc the treat over her body to ease her fully onto her side. Credit: Courtesy of Stephanie Colman
Keep the treat magnet on your dog’s nose and turn her head toward the non- weight-baring hip. Once her head is turned, slowly move your treat magnet in diagonal arc over her body. Following the food will start to ease her onto her side, with her head turned so that she’s looking back over his shoulder. From there, use your treat magnet to straighten her head and guide her body and head the rest of the way to the floor.
Some dogs find this more relaxing if it’s paired with a little gentle massage and calm reassurance. Don’t confuse gentle massage with forcing your dog into position. Lying flat is a vulnerable position for dogs. Don’t force it. Reward smaller versions along the way as necessary. For example, if your dog seems unsure, reward the first inch of a melt toward her side. When that looks easy, reward two inches, and so on.
If your dog struggles with this step and you find yourself feeling frustrated, take a break.
Practice this step until you can lure your dog fully onto her side in one fluid motion. Some dogs will learn this in one session. For others, it might take weeks. Meet your dog where she’s at and enjoy the journey!
Step Three: Maintaining the “Dead” Position
When your dog is comfortable melting onto her side, briefly move the treat away and back. Reward in the “dead” position to help your dog learn remaining in position makes you deliver the treat. Credit: Courtesy of Stephanie Colman
Load your hand with several treats. Lure your dog into the “dead” position. Let her nibble a treat or two from your hand, positioning your delivery so her head stays on the ground. Next, quickly slide your hand out and back along the floor and away from her face. Deliver another treat. With this step, the dog learns holding position when the food moves away makes the food return. How far, and how fast, you slide your hand will depend on your dog. For some dogs, this step will involve moving your hand only a couple of inches before very quickly returning to feed. As your dog catches on, move a little slower and farther away before returning to deliver a treat.
Practice this step until you can lure your dog fully onto her side in one fluid motion and she shows no sign of wanting to raise her head or get up as you move the food away from her face.
Step Four: Change Your Orientation and Practice in New Locations
Most people find it easiest to teach the first few steps while kneeling on the ground next to the dog. If that’s how you’ve been practicing, repeat the first three steps while you assume a different position. If you’ve been kneeling, and you can safely do so, try standing and bending over. Your posture change presents a new picture to your dog. If all is going well, make a point to practice in new locations.
Step Five: Fade the Food Lure
When you can easily lure your dog into the full “dead” position, play with transitioning from luring your dog with food (treat magnet on his nose) to guiding/luring your dog with a similar hand signal. Warm up with a repetition or two with food in your hand, then immediately perform a third repetition with the food hidden in the opposite hand, and reward from the opposite hand after your dog performs the behavior.
When deciding which chew bones are best for your dogs, it is important to consider how strongly they chew. Credit: Jae Thomas
Chewing is an instinctive dog behavior. From puppies chewing on everything in sight to older dogs settling down with a good stick, dogs love to chew. Chewing is a self-soothing activity, and dog-safe chews are good for stress release, teething, and can even help with teeth cleaning.
However, chewing inappropriate items poses health and safety issues for our four-legged friends. From gastrointestinal upset to obstruction risk, finding the best and safest chew bones to keep your dog occupied can seem like a daunting task.
Which Dog Chews are Safe?
We tested seven products to determine which chews were best for dogs. Credit: Jae Thomas
The safest chew bones for dogs are made of digestible materials. This means that the ingredients are easy for dogs to digest and won’t cause stomach upset or potential blockages. Rawhide is a type of chew that isn’t always easily digestible because of how it’s processed. Large pieces of rawhide that are swallowed could be a potential intestinal obstruction risk.
Relatedly, safe dog chews are made of materials that don’t easily splinter or break off into large chunks. If a chew splinters, sharp pieces can get lodged in your dog’s throat or intestinal tract and cause damage. If a chew breaks into large pieces, dogs can swallow them whole and it’s both a choking and obstruction hazard.
Choosing a safe dog chew comes down to knowing your dog. A “safe” dog chew for a toy-sized dog or a light chewer may not be safe for a power chewer or a large dog who tends to break chews up and swallow big pieces. Once a chew gets shorter than the length of your dog’s snout, it becomes a potential choking hazard.
No dog chew is 100% safe, and you should always monitor your dog when you give them a chew bone. There are also handy products like bully stick holders that can make some chews less of a choking risk as your dog chews them down.
Traits We Want in a Dog Chew
The best dog chew bones should be easily digestible, non-splintering and should last long enough to make the price worth it. Here’s what to look for when buying a dog chew bone:
Digestible ingredients: Look for simple, digestible ingredients—single ingredient chews are the best. Avoid rawhide chews unless you’re sourcing from a responsible, safe source.
Safe materials and size: Whether something is safe or not may depend on your dog’s chewing style. Choose chew bones that are large enough that they’re not an immediate choking hazard. Also select chews that get softer as the dog chews, don’t splinter, and are unlikely to break into big pieces. Be mindful of hardness as well, as chews that are incredibly hard (like antlers) can potentially chip or break dogs’ teeth.
Long-lasting chews: Some chews get expensive at $10+ per chew. A long-lasting chew will be much more worth the cost and will keep your furry best friend entertained for longer.
Though raw bones can have dental and other benefits, I decided not to include them in this list. Not only do many vets advocate against raw bones due to obstruction risk, but raw bones can also carry bacteria and make dogs and humans in a household sick if not handled properly.
How We Tested the Best (and Safest) Dog Chew Bones
I tested each of the chew bones on this list with my two dogs, Miso, a Border Collie-American Staffordshire Terrier mix and Dashi, a Rough Collie. Miso is a super chewer. She’s been known to finish bully sticks in five minutes flat and she’s the kind of dog who will break something into large pieces and swallow it whole. I’ve fished many chews and pieces of toys out of her throat to save her from choking. She’s an excellent tester of a chew bone’s safety for strong chewers.
Dashi, on the other hand, is a delicate chewer. She’s the kind of dog that would take multiple sessions over multiple days to finish a small bully stick. Beef cheek rolls last her weeks at a time, even if she chews on them for an hour a day. Dashi also has a sensitive stomach, so she’s a good tester for how easy-on-the-tummy chews are.
I tested all the chews on this list with both of my dogs to determine the safety, longevity, and cost-effectiveness of each chew. I timed how long each dog took to finish each chew and noted the chews that were broken into unsafe pieces or caused digestive upset. I also noted chews that my dogs didn’t like or didn’t find very high value.
Note that the recommendations on this list aren’t exhaustive. There are plenty of brands of beef cheek rolls, tendons, bully sticks, and more to choose from. Let this list serve as a guide for which type of chews to select, then you can try different brands to see which ones work best for you and your dog.
Read on for the best dog chew bones I tested for Whole Dog Journal:
These chews last a ridiculously long time even for heavy chewers, are an easily digestible rawhide alternative, and are extremely reasonably priced for how thick they are. These are one of the only chews that don't give my Collie tummy troubles.
Bully sticks are a classic chew for a reason. They’re a single ingredient chew, don’t break or splinter, and many dogs find them very high value. The only downside is the price in most cases.
Collagen sticks are a bit cheaper than bully sticks, and in my experience, are a little easier on the stomach. They’re also a bit easier for power chewers to break into pieces, but they do get softer as medium and light chewers chew them, similar to bully sticks.
Tendons are a great low-fat treat that clean dog teeth well. The ones from Pupford are extra thick, and last a decently long time, even for powerful chewers.
If you’re looking for a natural, edible enrichment toy, beef trachea is the way to go. You can stuff them with soaked kibble or other food, then freeze them for an extra challenge. Unstuffed, they’re not very durable, but they’re a great alternative to stuffable enrichment toys.
Coffee wood chews are all the rage lately, but I found this option to be quite messy. It sheds small pieces of wood as dogs chew, even with light chewers.
For extra-small dogs or light chewers, pig ears could be an okay option. My power-chewer tester dog was able to break one pig ear up into large pieces almost immediately. She got a piece lodged in her throat that I had to fish out by hand.
As a dog trainer I hear the same lament constantly: Your puppy is chewing everything but has a sensitive tummy and can’t have most chews. Fear not: The Amazing Dog Treats Beef Cheek Rolls (and beef cheek rolls in general) are often the solution to this classic problem.
Though they look like rawhide, beef cheek rolls are made from one piece of beef cheek and are not a byproduct of the leather industry like rawhide. This means they’re much more easily digestible in comparison to rawhide.
Beef cheek rolls (especially thick ones like the ones from Amazing Dog Treats) last the longest of any chew I’ve ever given my dogs. The 5–6-inch beef cheek rolls regularly last my super chewer dog up to a week with about 30 minutes to an hour of chewing each day. They last my soft-mouthed Rough Collie even longer. At around $4 per chew, they’re easily some of the most cost-effective chews on this list.
I like that these rolls don’t break into big chunks. As the dog chews, they get soft, and the dogs are able to nibble tiny pieces off of them. I’ve never had a choking incident with a beef cheek roll, and I’ve been giving them to my dogs regularly for over two years. Because they’re so sturdy, I also find that they don’t upset my Collie’s sensitive stomach—likely because she’s not consuming much during each session.
Beef cheek rolls are fantastic boredom busters and though they don’t smell. The only real downside of them is that they leave some sticky residue as the dog chews. It’s best to lay down a towel or have your dog chew these bones on a washable dog bed to make cleanup a bit easier.
Bully sticks are a classic single ingredient chew that work for even the heaviest of chewers. Bully sticks come in a variety of sizes (up to gigantic 24-inch-long ones), so you can opt for the size that best suits your dog. These chews are also incredibly high value in many cases and most dogs love them.
Bully sticks are made of beef pizzle, which while somewhat gross, is actually a great ingredient for a dog chew. They’re hard enough to offer some challenge but get soft as the dog chews. You’re unlikely to have any splintering or big pieces breaking off with a high-quality bully stick.
Most dogs can safely chew bully sticks, but super chewers will likely go through them pretty quickly. Miso can finish a 12-inch bully stick in about 10-15 minutes, while Dashi will take multiple 30-minute sessions to finish one. Bully sticks can be quite expensive, sitting at up to $10 per stick depending on the size and brand, so it may feel like a waste of money if your dog chews through a $10 stick in less than 10 minutes.
As for the downsides, some bully sticks have a terrible odor. The ones I tested didn’t have much odor before chewing and had some odor after my dogs started chewing. If the smell bothers you, you can opt for “odorless” versions, though these do sometimes still have a scent in my experience.
In terms of safety, choose a bully stick that’s oversized for your dog to ensure the longest amount of chew time. Buying a bully stick holder isn’t a bad idea either. As dogs chew down bully sticks, they may choke on the small piece left at the end of the chew, but bully stick holders help prevent that.
Collagen sticks are very similar to bully sticks, but they’re slightly cheaper and tend to be a bit easier on the GI system for pups with sensitive tummies. In comparison to the bully sticks I tested, the Pupford Collagen Sticks are about half the price at $2.50 per stick.
They are, however, a bit easier to break into chunks, so they aren’t the best option for strong chewers. If you have a light to medium chewer, the Pupford collagen sticks act very similarly to bully sticks in that they soften as the dog chews on them. It’s still a good idea to put these in a bully stick holder since they can become a choking hazard as your dog chews them down.
No dog toy is truly indestructible. If you have a strong chewer who will demolish stuffable enrichment toys like Kongs and Toppls, trachea chews are a good stuffable (and edible) alternative. I like to fill these with soaked kibble and freeze them for a fun enrichment challenge.
Note that these chews are not nearly as durable unstuffed/unfrozen and many power chewers will eat an entire trachea in a few minutes. Aside from the lack of durability on their own, the main downside of beef tracheas is that they tend to be high in fat, which can cause gastrointestinal upset in some dogs.
Chicken and duck feet are often lauded for their teeth cleaning abilities due to the scraping action of chewing on thin, crunchy bones. I found that the Pupford tendon chews offered a similar scraping action for my dogs, minus the crunch. Though these chews didn’t last the longest of the bunch, they were definitely the chewiest—and my dogs worked hard to get through them.’
Tendon chews are great because they’re low-fat and are essentially just muscle meat. That means less digestive upset for dogs than fattier options (like trachea).
If you have a very small dog or a very light chewer, Pupford has less durable (and cheaper) tendon chews and thick tendon chews. The Turbo Tendons are the thickest and priciest of the three tendon options from Pupford, but I found them to be long-lasting enough to recommend them. Miso the power chewer ate her Turbo Tendon in about 10 minutes, but she worked extremely hard and I could tell that due to the texture and size that it cleaned her teeth more than some of the other chews on this list. For a soft chewer like Dashi, one of these high-value chews could last multiple sessions over a few days.
Other Chews We Tested
I also tested the Pupford coffee wood chew and the Good Lovin’ pig ear chews. Coffee wood chews are a recent trend and though they’re non-splintering and seem like a good natural alternative to nylon chews, I wouldn’t recommend the one from Pupford. My Collie is a very soft chewer and even then there were a lot of crumbly pieces shed from this chew within the first few minutes. I also saw Dashi licking her mouth frequently while chewing on this, and it seemed like tiny pieces of wood were getting stuck in her mouth and annoying her. Miso didn’t care about this chew at all.
The Good Lovin’ pig ear chews and pig ears in general could be an okay option for a very small dog or an extremely light chewer, but these were the only chews on the list that caused a genuine choking hazard to my dogs. Miso was able to break the pig ear up almost immediately, and though it softens as the dog chews, she still managed to get a piece caught in her throat that I had to fish out.
The responsibilities and the investment of time and money in a puppy are a lot to inflict on someone without their permission. Credit: Nancy Kerns
I’ve given a few private lessons to a client who received an 8-week-old Golden Retriever puppy as a Christmas present. This man is retired, a recent graduate of cancer treatments, and lives alone. His young adult children apparently thought he needed a companion and bought him the puppy as a gift.
Fortunately, the puppy is absolutely lovely—a cupcake of a sweet puppy who learns quickly and already has the ability to settle down quickly after moments of play or training. Even so, she has typical baby canine needs to chew, explore, potty frequently, interact with others, and play—and that can be exhausting for anyone to deal with alone, and 24/7!
Now add in doctor’s appointments, shopping and home-maintenance tasks, social visits—you know, a real life—and fit all of that in around meeting the puppy’s needs. My client loves the puppy, and loves the thought behind what his children were trying to do for him, but is finding himself exhausted and overwhelmed by the puppy’s needs. He told me, “I did want to get a dog again at some point—but I imagined that I might adopt an adult or older dog. I did not think I’d be raising a puppy again at my age, and especially without a wife to help!”
Already, this “gift” puppy has cost my client a small fortune. He’s bought a crate, beds, bowls, toys, chews, treats, collars, a harness, leashes, a car seat cover, and a large covered pen for the puppy to stay in outdoors while he’s busy with yard chores and can’t actively supervise her. He’s taken her to the vet for vaccines and a fecal exam, hired me to help make sure he’s training and handling the puppy properly, and arranged for her to stay with her breeder for 10 days when he takes a long-scheduled vacation out of the country later this month. And he’s signed up for a puppy kindergarten class to start when he gets back from his trip. In all, he’s likely spent several thousand dollars on a puppy he didn’t ask for—but doesn’t want to hurt anyone’s feelings by sending her back to the breeder. Plus, she’s sweet, and he likes dogs and figured he’d want a dog again someday.
This might all work out. The puppy is absolutely a peach, and her owner is doing everything he can think of to manage her properly. But it’s not without risks; I can see that my client is exhausted—and he admits he’s lost his patience and temper with the puppy a few times, which could hurt his relationship with the sweet, sensitive young dog.
I thought that as a culture, we were more or less past the times when it seemed like a good idea to select and buy a dog as a gift for someone else. Shouldn’t they have the option of choosing their own dog, and bringing the dog into their home at a time of their own choosing? The responsibilities and the investment of time and money are a lot to inflict on someone!
Are you aware of a “gift puppy” situation that worked out extraordinarily well? What contributed to the success of the puppy’s placement?
Even small amounts of alcohol can be harmful—and in some cases deadly—to dogs. Credit: eclipse_images | Getty Images
Though you may have seen pictures, memes, and videos on social media about drunk dogs, we have a simple public service announcement on behalf of all canine-kind: Dogs should not booze it up.
Experts say dogs do not want to be intoxicated; buzzed dogs are not funny, and canine alcohol consumption can be dangerous, even deadly.
“Please don’t give pets alcohol,” says veterinarian Lori Teller, a clinical professor at Texas A&M University College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences. “Just don’t do it.”
What Happens if a Dog Drinks Alcohol?
So, what’s so bad if a dog has a drink? What could happen if a pup sips a nip?
Alcohol is a central nervous system depressant and consuming it can have catastrophic impacts on a dog’s essential organs (heart, liver, pancreas, kidneys, and brain).
“Dogs do not metabolize alcohol like [human] adults do,” Dr. Teller says. “Small children and dogs have not developed the enzymes to metabolize alcohol. You don’t give alcohol to small children, and we don’t give it to dogs.”
Ingesting liquor can lower a dog’s blood sugar, making them weak and leading to seizures. It also affects their ability to regulate body temperature, causing them to be susceptible to hypothermic shock.
“Alcohol can impact a dog’s respiration to the point where it becomes very slow or even stops,” Dr. Teller says. “They can go into a coma, and if they don’t get medical treatment, they could die.”
If you’re wondering, “Can dogs get drunk?”, the answer is yes. Dogs can get drunk very quickly on minimal amounts of alcohol and end up with way more than a hangover.
Ingesting alcohol can cause diarrhea and vomiting, which can lead to other serious complications.
“One of the biggest concerns with intoxicated pets is that they will vomit and be unable to protect their airway; if this happens, they can inhale the vomit into their lungs and contract pneumonia, which can be very severe,” says veterinarian Tina Wismer, senior director of toxicology at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.
The organization’s staff fielded more than 500 calls last year from people worrying how much danger their pets were in after they drank alcohol.
How Much Alcohol is Dangerous for Dogs?
Is a slurp of a drink detrimental to a dog? What about a gulp? How much is dangerous? There’s no one easy answer. It all depends on the type of alcohol a dog drank, how much they consumed, and the dog’s weight.
“As dogs typically weigh less than people, it will take less volume to cause drunkenness,” Dr. Wismer says.
The percentage of alcohol in different drinks varies and even some mocktails and “nonalcoholic” beers may have low levels of alcohol.
Most traditional beer contains about 5% alcohol, wine has around 12%, vodka and gin have approximately 40%, and grain alcohol typically has upward of 90%. The higher the alcohol concentration, the more quickly it will take effect and the greater chance a pooch will have a potential problem.
That’s why it’s critical to recognize the symptoms of alcohol poisoning and seek medical help.
Symptoms of Alcohol Poisoning in Dogs
The signs of alcohol poisoning can be acute. The dog may become disoriented and uncoordinated; their respiratory rate may drop; they may have muscle tremors and even become nonresponsive.
“Typically, signs of depression and drunkenness in dogs appear within an hour of alcohol ingestion, including difficulty walking, sedation, and stomach upset,” Dr. Wismer says.
You may not even realize a dog who seems sick and is exhibiting these signs drank alcohol. Perhaps there’s a party or a backyard cookout, someone leaves their drink unattended, and the resident pooch decides, “It smells good to me!” and laps it up.
Then, the dog suddenly starts to appear ill. Whether you know a dog ingested alcohol or suspect it, get medical help immediately.
What Should I Do If My Dog Drank Alcohol?
Time is of the essence because of the detrimental impact alcohol has on a dog’s body.
Contact your veterinarian, your closest animal emergency hospital, or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435. If your dog is exhibiting symptoms of alcohol poisoning, get in the car and head to the ER.
“The sooner you seek care, the better,” Dr. Teller says. “It may involve intravenous fluids and supportive care. If your dog has tremors, seizures, vomiting, or diarrhea, you need to get those under control.”
There’s no antidote for alcohol poisoning in dogs (or people), so the more supportive care a dog can receive to treat their symptoms, the better their chances of improving.
Avoiding Alcohol Altogether
Not to be a buzzkill here, but you don’t want to be the one who calls an animal hospital or the poison control hotline and says, “My dog drank beer. Will he be okay?” because he might not be.
Don’t let a dog get close to alcohol or in a position to counter or table surf a drink.
“Always keep an eye on your beverages and never place drinks, bottles, or cans of alcohol at your pets’ level,” Dr. Wismer says.
If you’re having a party and you want your pets to be part of it, consider making an alcohol-free zone for them to be in. That helps minimize the temptation and danger—and it’s not only the alcohol that’s risky.
Some cocktail mixes and drinks contain artificial sweeteners like xylitol. “Even extremely small amounts of xylitol can cause significant damage to a dog’s body, resulting in liver failure,” Dr. Teller says.
So, the next time you see a drunk dog post on social media, don’t hit “like,” don’t share it, and most of all, don’t try it at home.
“Pets are important members of our family; they do not get the same enjoyment from alcohol that people might,” Dr. Teller says. “People should not be condoning it. It can be a reason for an investigation into animal abuse. It’s just not funny.”
A female dog can have puppies throughout her entire life.
Credit: Fuse | Getty Images
Most intact female dogs follow a reasonably regular schedule for their heat cycles. (I know many of you are groaning, but the average female dog goes into heat at regular intervals, whether every four months or nine months or whatever.) If your dog has had a litter, her cycle may reset on a different time frame after having the puppies.
Most dogs start their heat cycles somewhere from 6 months of age to 2 years old. Toy breeds tend to come in heat when younger, while giant breeds when older. The dog’s breeder can tell you how her line runs and that often carries over. Most of my females have started with a first heat at about 13 months old and then have a heat every nine months.
Heat Cycles Are Not Periods
A dog’s heat cycle is different from a human “period.” Both involve bleeding, but for a dog, it signals a start to a fertility period whereas in humans it is the opposite.
As female dogs age, their heat cycles may get prolonged. A dog who normally had a heat every six months may now go nine or 12 months, potentially even longer. Also, heats may become less noticeable or intense in senior females. There may be less discharge, and she may not be as attractive to male dogs as when she was younger. These senior heats may mimic what is called a silent heat in younger dogs—no discharge and no obvious vulvar swelling—but the male dogs still show interest.
This is not the same as going into menopause like a senior woman, however. In aging people, the hormonal changes basically switch off the reproductive organs. This does not happen in dogs, so even an elderly bitch may become pregnant.
Bleeding From “Private Parts”
If your dog is bleeding from her vulva, carefully assess the situation. If she is not spayed, when was her last heat? Is there any evidence of trauma that might cause bleeding? Is her vulva swollen? Male dogs are often attracted to urine with blood, even if it is not part of a heat cycle.
Older female dogs are more likely to suffer from conditions such as bladder cancer or pyometra (a dangerous uterine infection). If she is spayed or not likely to be in heat, a veterinary visit is in order. A bladder infection or bladder crystals and stones are also possible. Uterine cancer, vaginal growths, or bladder cancer are all possible causes of a bloody discharge.
Dog Bladder Infections
If your female dog is urinating more frequently and doing extra licking even though she is not due to come in heat, the odds of a bladder infection are high. Ideally, you want to do a “free catch” urine sample first thing in the morning and take it to your veterinarian. Note: Walk your dog on a short leash and carry a saucer or small ladle you can quietly slip under her as she goes to pee. The sample should go into a clean container and be kept refrigerated until you can get it to the veterinary clinic, preferably the same day.
Watch your dog urinate to ensure that you see the urine and she is not straining to urinate without producing pee, which could be a sign of bladder stones.
Bladder stones in your dog should not be ignored. If your dog strains to urinate but nothing comes out or if he urinates and you see fresh blood, your dog may be suffering from bladder stones. Note: No urine may be an emergency, as urinary blockages can be serious.
What Causes Bladder Stones in Dogs?
Bladder stones are formed when excess minerals build up in the bladder as crystals and pack together. This could be because your dog doesn’t handle minerals properly when they hit the urinary tract or the urinary tract is faced with an excess of minerals, which could be from his diet. In addition, certain urinary pH levels can encourage the formation of different bladder stones.
What Are the Types of Bladder Stones in Dogs?
The two most common types of bladder stones in dogs are struvite (magnesium ammonium phosphate and hexahydrate) and calcium oxalate.
Struvite stone formation often follows bladder infections and the corresponding alkaline urinary pH. Female, small-breed dogs are often affected, even when young.
Calcium oxalate stones tend to develop in male small-breed dogs and are associated with acidic urinary pH values.
A third type, urate stones, are uncommon but are associated with Dalmatians due to a genetic mutation seen in many Dalmatians for the processing of uric acid. Males are much more commonly affected. Selected outbreeding to reduce that genetic mutation has been done to help many Dalmatians for the future. Careful dietary management is important for many Dalmatians to prevent stone formation.
Diagnosing Bladder Stones in Dogs
Bladder stones can be diagnosed by palpation on some dogs if they relax their abdominal muscles. A dog may have multiple smaller stones or one large one. An X-ray can confirm the presence of bladder stones. A urinalysis is important, too. There are often crystals present in the urine that, along with the urine pH, can guide your veterinarian as to which type of stone your dog has.
Urinary Stone Type Affects Treatment Choices
Treatment of bladder stones can vary. Different stone formations depend on different pH values. For example, if your dog has calcium oxalate crystals, using a urinary acidifier like cranberry supplements could worsen his condition. Typical treatments include:
Surgery: If your dog has one large stone or has a urinary blockage due to a stone, surgery is often the best option.
Urohydropropulsion: This technique can be used if your dog has multiple small stones. A catheter is passed that fills the bladder and then small stones are flushed out.
Laser lithotripsy: This laser technique can be used to break up smaller stones that can then be flushed out. Both procedures can be difficult in male dogs due to the anatomy of the urinary tract.
Dietary dissolution: Dissolving urinary stones with diet tends to be most effective for struvite stones but can also work for calcium oxalate stones. Different prescription diets are used for the process, depending on the stone type. This can take a long time to dissolve urinary stones and during the dissolution your dog may be prone to urinary infections or blockages as the stone pieces shrink. Owners MUST strictly follow the diet, which means no unauthorized treats!
Home Remedies for Bladder Stones in Dogs
Some natural therapies and herbal supplements can help to prevent stone formation or recurrence, but currently none are effective for to dissolve existing stones. There are also dog foods that help support a healthy urinary tract.
Bladder stones certainly aren’t fun for anyone, but they can be resolved with surgery or medical treatments. Recurrence can be minimized with diet and management. It would be unusual for a dog to need to be euthanized (or put down) simply for bladder stones
Some topical products for fleas and ticks also help repel mosquitoes. Check your product’s label to know for sure.
Credit: Svetlana Parnikova | Getty Images
Dogs are a handy meal service for mosquitoes. While a dog’s thick haircoat can be a deterrent, the shorter hair on muzzles, ears, and groin area are easy access feeding spots for mosquitoes.
Along with an itch, a bite from a mosquito can transfer serious health problems. The best known and most common health hazard for dogs from mosquito bites is heartworm. At least 25 species of mosquitoes can transmit heartworm to susceptible dogs.
Reduce Bug Bites on a Dog
Reducing exposure to mosquitoes starts with your dog’s environment. Get rid of any stagnant water sources on your property. Mosquitoes lay eggs in stagnant water. Empty kiddie pools daily, dump old tires or buckets holding rainwater, and so on. If you have a pond on your property, consider using natural mosquito control such as releasing dragonflies.
Although mosquitoes may bite at any time, like during a walk through a moist, cool wooded area, it’s wise to keep your dog in at dawn and dusk, which are prime mosquito feeding times.
Mosquito Repellent for Dogs
Some monthly topical flea/tick treatments, like Vectra 3D and K9 Advantix II, repel mosquitoes as well as fleas and ticks. (Note: See below for information on heartworm preventatives.)
In addition, there are numerous herbal and natural products that help to repel mosquitoes. Buzzguard is a natural product that helps deter mosquitoes. Other good products include Vet’s Best and Wondercide. You may also want to try neem oil.
As always, these products should be tested first on a small area of your dog’s skin to be sure he does not have an allergic reaction.
Remember, as you have probably experienced yourself, no mosquito repellent is 100% effective, so you should still use a heartworm preventive and still reduce mosquitoes in the environment.
How Dogs Get Heartworm
A mosquito picks up heartworm when it bites a heartworm-infected dog or other animal. As the mosquito sucks up the blood, it also takes in immature heartworms, called microfilaria, which are in the blood of the animal it bites.
In the mosquito, microfilaria develops into infective larvae. This can take up to 10 to 14 days. Then, when the mosquito feeds again, it deposits those infective larvae on the skin of its victim. The larvae migrate into the bite wound and infect the animal bitten.
Heartworm preventives are available with a prescription from your veterinarian. Your dog should have a screening test to be sure he is free of heartworms before you start him on a preventive. It is important to realize that heartworm cases have been found across North America. Mosquitoes can get into our homes and bite during the winter months. The American Heartworm Society recommends doing preventives all year round.
Other Mosquito-Spread Diseases in Dogs
While heartworm disease is more common and takes time to become a clinical problem, other mosquito-spread illnesses can show up quickly and be rapidly fatal. These include viruses that are more commonly associated with birds or horses.
West Nile virus, eastern equine encephalitis virus, and Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis virus can cause serious illness in dogs, though many canine cases are mild. Neurologic signs are common. Bird and horse cases in your area may lead your veterinarian to suspect these viruses if your dog becomes ill. Treatment for these viral illnesses is supportive.
The cause of SARDS is dogs unknown and does not appear to be caused by toxins. Credit: Henry Horenstein | Getty Images
Losing your vision can be a life-altering event. The same is true for our dogs. There are several causes of blindness in dogs—one of those causes is sudden acquired retinal degeneration syndrome (SARDS).
SARDS is characterized by the sudden and rapid destruction of photoreceptors in the retina. The retina is located at the back of the eye. Photoreceptors in the retina capture light that enters the eye and convert the light into electrical signals. These signals are sent to the brain through the optic nerve. The brain converts these electrical signals into an image of what your dog sees.
There are two types of photoreceptors in the retina—rods and cones. Rods are responsible for detecting the level of light (or brightness) and motion. Cones are responsible for detecting color. Unlike humans, dogs only have two types of cones and can perceive the colors blue and yellow but not red and green.
Destruction of the photoreceptors occurs over a period of a few weeks, although most dogs with SARDS seem to become completely blind overnight. Symptoms of SARDS include bumping into furniture and walls and having dilated pupils. Some dogs will become anxious and withdrawn or may whine and appear restless.
Causes of SARDS
The cause of SARDS is unknown. There are no known toxins that cause SARDS. There is speculation that the development of SARDS may be linked to an underlying endocrine disorder, such as hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease) or hypothyroidism. This link has not been confirmed but is currently being researched.
Diagnosing SARDS in Dogs
Proper diagnosis of SARDS in your dog will require a visit to a veterinary ophthalmologist. Your dog will receive a complete ophthalmologic exam, including an electroretinogram (ERG). An ERG records the electrical activity of the retina when exposed to light. Dogs with SARDS will have no retinal electrical activity due to the destruction of photoreceptors in the retina.
The ERG takes about 20 to 30 minutes to complete. Your dog is first placed in a completely dark room for about 15 minutes. This immersion into darkness makes the retina particularly sensitive to light.
The pupils will need to be dilated for this test. If your dog’s pupils are not already dilated, a drop of a pupil dilation solution (such as tropicamide ophthalmic solution) will be instilled in each eye. Then a drop of a cornea numbing solution (such as proparacaine or tetracaine) is applied to the surface of each eye. This numbs the surface of the cornea in preparation for the ERG.
A contact lens that contains an electrode is applied to the surface of your dog’s cornea. Two electrodes are applied to your dog’s skin. One electrode is placed at the top of his skull and the other is placed next to the eye being tested.
Pulses of light are shone into the eye being tested. Electrical activity of the retina is recorded by the electrodes and the output is displayed on a computer. Lack of retinal electrical activity confirms the diagnosis of SARDS.
Your dog needs to sit still without moving his head during the ERG. Most dogs will require a sedative for the procedure. Some dogs may need to be briefly anesthetized to facilitate completion of the ERG.
Treatment and Prognosis for Dogs with SARDS
There are currently no treatments for SARDS. Blindness is permanent and irreversible. SARDS is not a painful condition. Most dogs will adjust to being visually impaired and lead a full and happy life.
If you suspect that your dog has become acutely blind, make an appointment for an exam with his primary care veterinarian immediately. She can complete some basic diagnostic tests of his eyes and determine if your dog needs to be referred to a veterinary ophthalmologist for further workup of his vision loss.
How To Help Your Visually Impaired Dog
Much like people who have acutely lost their vision, dogs with SARDS need help learning how to navigate their environment without their sight. Here are some things you can do to help your visually impaired dog:
Keep furniture and other obstacles in their current locations. Dogs will create a mental map of their environment to help them navigate without vision. If you must move furniture or other fixed items, do it gradually to minimize disruption of your dog’s mental map. This will help your dog adjust to the new location of the moved items.
Block access to stairs with safety gates.
Place a throw rug over the threshold or at the entrance to a room. Use a different rug texture for each room so that your dog can detect by touch the room he is entering or exiting.
Use different landscape textures in your yard—such as grass, landscape pavers, pebbles, or sand—to indicate transitioning between yard sections and proximity to an exterior door of your home.
Put away loose or unstable items that may create trip or fall hazards in your home.
Teach your dog navigation terms, such as “right”, “left”, and “step”.
Walk your dog on a leash when outside in the yard until he has become familiar with how to navigate the yard.
Devices that can help your visually impaired dog:
Goggles can protect your dog’s eyes from trauma that might be incurred by walking into bushes or tall brush. Rex Specs has created an excellent pair of goggles made specifically for dogs—see Whole Dog Journal’s 2023 Dog Gear of the Year for more information.
Wearing a navigation halo from Muffin’s Halo can help dogs realize they are about to bump into an object BEFORE it happens. See https://www.muffinshalo.com/ for more information.
Dogs can pick up worms through things like dirt that may have
contaminated feces in it.
Credit: K Thalhofer | Getty Images
Worms, or intestinal parasites, can be a problem for dogs, especially those in poor condition. Luckily, available treatments are safe and easy to administer. The trick is to recognize that your dog may have worms before the infestation grows.
How to Tell If Your Dog Has Worms
Signs your dog has worms will vary with the type of parasite. Most parasites pass microscopic-sized eggs in the feces and noticed, but two may be visible in your dog’s stool: roundworms (ascarids) and tapeworms.
Roundworms are long, thin worms and may be seen in stool or vomited up, particularly by puppies with heavy infestations. Roundworms are usually what people are seeing when they report worms in their dog’s poop.
Tapeworms are most noticeable as egg sacks, which are called “proglottids.” These tapeworm egg sacks are small squares or rectangles that are white when fresh but can dry up into rice-like particles in both fecal material and around the hair on your dog’s rectum and tail.
The clinical signs your dog has worms vary with the type of parasite and how heavy the load is. If the puppy has enough parasites, they can cause anemia and even death. A heavy parasite load may cause intussusception of the small intestinal, which is when the bowel sort of telescopes into itself. This may require emergency surgery.
With puppies, signs of worms include:
A lack of normal growth (called “stunting”)
Distended belly
Crying and whimpering
Diarrhea, possibly with blood
Vomiting
Live adult worms, mainly roundworms, may be noted in both stool and vomit. Hookworms are particularly nasty, and studies document a growing resistance to treatment.
Worms in Adult Dogs
Any intestinal parasite is a nutrient drain on your dog, so dogs with chronic health problems and senior dogs are at a high risk for nutritional problems. Signs of worms in adult dogs may include:
Weight loss or failure to gain or maintain weight
Diarrhea or loose stool
Vomiting
Blood in the stool
Anema (usually caused by hookworms and whipworms)
Dull hair coat
Lethargy
Unless you find a vomited worm, or worms or worm segments passed in the stool, a proper diagnosis will require a trip to the veterinarian with a fecal sample. You don’t need to bring the entire passed stool. A small chunk is adequate. The sample will be checked for microscopic eggs with fecal flotation. Alternatively, a sample may be sent out for antigen testing.
Some parasites do not shed eggs all the time or shed very few eggs. In those cases, a fecal flotation may be negative. If your dog’s clinical signs fit with an intestinal parasite, your veterinarian may recommend treatment anyway.
How Do Dogs Get Worms?
Dogs can acquire parasites in utero or via licking or eating fecal material or dirt, leaves—basically anything contaminated with parasite eggs. The eggs occur from the feces of an infected canine. Your dog can even walk through contaminated dirt and then lick his feet later, accidentally ingesting some eggs. Tapeworms require fleas or catching and eating prey such as rabbits or mice.
Luckily, many of the current topical treatments for fleas and ticks, as well as many heartworm preventives, have ingredients that will take care of most intestinal parasites. Tapeworms may require special medication.
Along with treating your dog, you may need to treat the environment as some parasite eggs can survive weather extremes. Also, if the infestation is secondary to fleas or hunting habits, you need to treat that primary cause if you can.
An itchy ear can be a sign of a food allergy, but it also could be an infection that needs treatment. Before jumping on the food-allergy bandwagon, consult your veterinarian. Credit: Aladino Gonzalez | Getty Images
If your dog suffers from skin allergies, choosing the right food can make a difference for your dog’s comfort and health. Allergies in dogs are a common concern from pet owners and can cause itchiness, red patches, hair loss, inflammation, and secondary skin infections.
Most pet allergies are not caused by food allergens, however. Food allergies in dogs are uncommon, with only 0.2% of dogs impacted. Environmental factors such as dust, fleas and ticks, or pollen are more common causes.
However, for dogs that do suffer from food-related sensitivities, diet is an important factor for symptom management. Avoiding common allergens and supplementing nutrients that help decrease inflammation and support overall skin health can make a huge difference for many pets.
Most Common Dog Food Allergies
Allergies occur when the immune system incorrectly identifies a harmless substance as a threat. The resulting allergic reaction is the immune system’s attempt at eliminating the allergen from the body. Dogs can develop allergies to certain compounds present in their food, and these allergic reactions create inflammation in the body, which commonly manifest as skin issues and/or digestive problems.
Best Food for Skin Allergies
The most common dog food allergies are caused by animal proteins, and one of the most common protein allergens for dogs is beef. Beef is a commonly used protein in commercial dog foods, but it can trigger itching, hot spots, and skin inflammation in sensitive dogs. Chicken, a staple in many dog foods, is another common allergen and, while it is considered highly digestible, it can be a trigger for many dogs. Even less common proteins like lamb, pork, and fish can cause reactions in certain dogs.
Sensitivities to grains, such as wheat and corn, are even more uncommon than allergies to proteins, but they do arise in a select few dogs. Soy is another ingredient that, while true allergies are rare, may impact sensitive dogs.
Eggs and dairy are two other possible suspects. While eggs are highly digestible, dogs that are allergic to chicken may have a sensitivity to eggs as well. Dairy that has not been treated with the lactase enzyme should be avoided for all dogs to prevent gastrointestinal (GI) upset. Dairy contains lactose, which is a sugar, and dogs, like all mammals other than humans, do not produce the enzyme lactase that needed to break down this sugar, making them lactose-intolerant. In addition to causing GI distress, it can also create inflammation that may present as skin itchiness.
The best dog foods for skin allergies are likely those that minimize exposure to some of the above-listed common allergens. However, many diets that avoid using common proteins or grains are expensive, so it may be worth a visit to your veterinarian to first rule out environmental allergens as the cause.
Many commercial dog foods have a long list of ingredients on the back of the bag. These ingredients help ensure the proper levels, and ratios, of nutrients your dog needs to thrive. However, the more ingredients a food has, the more difficult it is to pin one down as the culprit for your dog’s itchy skin. That’s where limited-ingredient diets can be helpful, as they typically contain a single source of animal protein and fewer ingredients overall, reducing the chances of triggering an allergy and helping to give you a starting place to determine what ingredients are to blame for your dog’s allergic reactions.
Novel protein diets are also a good option if you think, or know, that the animal protein source in your dog’s diet is to blame. These diets utilize proteins your dog has likely never been exposed to before, such as venison, bison, kangaroo, duck, and rabbit. Grain-free or limited grain diets may be a good option if your dog has a known allergy to some of the commonly used grains.
Selecting a diet that has skin-supporting nutrients is also key for our pets with itchy skin. Finding a food that contains a good source of omega-3 fatty acids will help support skin health and reduce inflammation. Ingredients such as fish oil, flaxseed, and marine microalgal oil may be used to supply these nutrients in many diets. You can also supplement omega-3 fatty acids.
Probiotics supplements or feeding probiotic-rich food aids in digestion and helps improve skin health. A healthy gut can improve your dog’s immune system and reduce the likelihood, and severity, of skin flare-ups. Supplements containing ingredients such as biotin, zinc, and vitamin E can help promote a healthy skin and coat and are beneficial for dogs suffering from skin issues.
For dogs with chronic skin conditions or severe allergies, a hypoallergenic or hydrolyzed diet may be the only option to help reduce allergy symptoms. Some brands offer hypoallergic formulas designed specifically for dogs with food sensitivities. They often contain a source of hydrolyzed protein, such as hydrolyzed chicken or soy. The process of hydrolyzation uses enzymes to break proteins down into smaller, more easily digestible pieces, such as amino acids and peptides, that the body can use. These smaller pieces are less likely to trigger an immune response in the body, making it an ideal choice for dogs with food sensitivities or allergies. If your dog is on a veterinary prescription diet, be sure to consult with your veterinarian before adding any supplements to their diet to ensure they do not have ingredients that should be avoided.
Whenever your dog is on a diet with the goal of reducing allergies, it is important to apply the same rules for their food to any treats, meal toppers, and supplements that you give them to ensure you are eliminating all sources of allergens. Managing your dog’s itchy skin starts with identifying and eliminating ingredients to which they may be sensitive. By choosing a high-quality, allergen-reducing dog food and monitoring their symptoms, you may be able to reduce skin irritation and improve their overall well-being. If your dog’s allergies persist, consult with your veterinarian for further testing or recommendations, which may include a more tailored diet or medical treatments in conjunction with a diet change.
Samson has worked as a therapy dog at Butte County's Juvenile Hall for nine years, first informally and later, as a certified Pet Partner. Credit: Nancy Kerns
A good friend recently gave notice that he wanted to retire from a job he’s had since he was just a tiny puppy. My dog Woody’s best friend Samson, who has never weighed as much as five pounds, has been going to work with my friend Leonora since he was a 3-week-old foster puppy—and recently, he started telling Leonora that he doesn’t want to go to work any more.
Leonora is an instructional assistant at the school in our county’s Juvenile Hall; she helps the kids there with their school work, which is no small feat in such a stressful environment. All of the students in this school have been in trouble with the law, and what’s more, most of them have come from extremely troubled families and are far, far behind in their grades’ educational standards (think high-school kids reading at the third-grade level).
When Leonora was fostering Samson and his five brothers for our local animal shelter, she asked her boss if she could bring the tiny puppies to work a few times, to have the kids help socialize the puppies. If this sounds scary to you, let me assure you that it was not; these tough kids, from hard-knock lives, took exquisite care of the pups—and early on, started rooting for Leonora to keep the tiniest one of the already small puppies. Leonora herself was also falling for the smallest pup; she didn’t need a lot of convincing that perhaps the fragile but determined puppy might be a special guy. I think that Samson was only about 8 weeks old when she decided that she was going to adopt him.
The kids at Juvenile Hall who helped socialize Samson and his five littermates when they were foster puppies unanimously decided that Samson—the tiniest pup in the litter—was the one that Leonora should keep.
Impressed with the calming influence that the puppies had exerted on the students, Leonora’s bosses agreed with her request to bring Samson to work every day once she had adopted him. He had small beds in several locations, including in the staff office and on her desk in the classroom, but he also spent tons of time walking through the classroom and choosing students to spend time with. Before he was five months old, he was already showing great skill at finding the lap of students who were in a particularly emotionally vulnerable state and refusing to leave them.
Guards who worked in the housing section of juvenile hall sometimes came to the school wing to ask Leonora if Samson could come to visit a student who refused to leave their cell in the morning. Leonora would go with the guard and sit on the floor outside the kid’s room and ask how they were doing; would they like Samson to come and sit with them for a bit? She’d sit quietly as Samson would wag his way into the kid’s cell. He instinctively seemed to know whether scampering or approaching quietly was called for. Usually, after a time with Samson in their lap—this tiny infusion of nonjudgmental love and acceptance—the kid would feel up to facing his or her day in captivity and come out of their room for a meal or to join the other kids back in the school wing.
Leonora also used Samson as an instructional tool; she used him as an introduction to dozens of classroom lessons on topics from psychology and learning theory (she would demonstrate how to teach new behaviors with positive reinforcement, and let the students teach Samson new tricks) to what is required to responsibly care for others—rather pertinent for kids who had seldom received responsible care themselves, and even more so for the teens who are themselves already parents.
It wasn’t just the kids that Samson provided comfort and affection to; many of the staff members looked forward to interacting with the cheerful little dog when they crossed his path in the labyrinthine halls between the housing units, the exercise areas, and the school sections of Juvenile Hall. Samson had short daily visits with many of his friends and fans, from the jail guards in their heavy boots and stiff uniforms, to the teachers and counselors in the school, to the administrative staff in the office. Some would just say hi and give him a smile; others were compelled to pick him up and allow him to lick their beards or hands; others would ask him to perform his “tricks.” He is just so tiny and vulnerable, and so relentlessly good-natured and friendly, that few could resist responding to and interacting with him.
Though Samson is a naturally friendly guy, Leonora also invested in his “professional development,” taking him to group classes for puppies, adults, agility, and therapy dog training. She and Samson also became and maintained their status as certified Pet Partners—a registered therapy dog/handler team.
Samson’s top weight never reached five pounds—a fraction of his best friend Woody’s size. Credit: Nancy Kerns
I have gotten to hear about all of this first-hand, because Leonora and I frequently walk our dogs together and my dogs often stay with her when I am out of town. But I’ve also gotten to see it for myself, because Leonora has invited me to come to Juvenile Hall as a guest speaker several times to talk to the kids about dog training. I took Otto, a couple of times. The Hall leadership has had a longstanding rule that disallows visits from any type of dog that is popular with gangs, so until very recently, my block-headed mixed-breed Woody was not allowed to come and be a demonstration dog, but scruffy Boone—who, according to the DNA tests, has more bully-breed representation in his genetic makeup than Woody, has been allowed in several times. Only a chance meeting between Leonora, me, my dogs, and the administrator of the Juvenile Hall school in the Hall parking lot got the administrator to say that Boone and Woody could come in for a visit. Boone and Woody both loved hanging out with and doing tricks for the kids—but Woody was not particularly comfortable with the sound of distant slamming doors; he would growl and his hair would stand up when he heard the booming and clanging sounds, and so I won’t bring him back again.
In contrast, for nine years, Samson has been happily working in this environment.
But very recently, Samson’s behavior has started to change. On some days, he started remaining in his bed as Leonora was getting ready for work, instead of running to and standing by the door, ready to jump in the car, like he’s done all previous nine years of his life; on those days, Leonora would let him stay home. But then, on some of the days when he had asked to go to work, Samson started standing by the door that leads to the employee parking lot long before the day was over, and refusing to come to her when Leonora called him back to the classroom or even the staff office.
After just a few iterations of this, Leonora told me, as well as her fellow staff members, that she was going to retire Samson. Several of them objected! But on one of Samson’s final days at Juvenile Hall, the school administrator also witnessed Samson’s refusal to come back to the classroom after a break outdoors, and he sadly backed Leonora’s decision to stop bringing Samson to work.
In a beautiful event, the staff threw Samson a retirement party. Leonora was stunned, teary and speechless, when they presented her with a plaque and certificate of appreciation for Samson’s contributions to the school.
Credit: Nancy KernsCredit: Nancy Kerns
Samson is still a happy, healthy guy. He still snuggles with his lifelong best friend Woody when Woody stays at Leonora’s house. He and Leonora still join me and my dogs on walks in our local wildlife area, and he still loves to meet and greet people when Leonora takes him with her on errands around town. He’s just dialed his social calendar down in favor of more time in his heated bed at home—and I have the utmost of respect and love for my friend Leonora for paying such close attention to and meeting that and every one of Samson’s other needs. I’m sure that the kids and staff—and Leonora herself—miss him during the weekdays. But as she told me, he’s earned his retirement a million times his tiny bodyweight.
With consistent training and your attention, dogs develop “tell” signals to indicate they need to potty. A classic tell is sitting at the door, staring at you. Credit: Os Tartarouchos | Getty Images
Many rescue and shelter dogs are listed as potty trained. But, in fairness to the shelter, it can be difficult to ascertain whether a dog is truly potty trained in a shelter environment. Some shelters are well-staffed, but others aren’t, which makes regular potty breaks difficult. It can be easier in a foster home, but not always. So, adopting a dog that is having potty accidents happens, but it’s not the worst thing—you can usually fix it.
Potty training an older dog is not difficult. You only need to get your dog on a suitable schedule for that is appropriate for them and fits your own schedule. Dogs love routines and respond well to predictability.
How to Potty Train A Dog
Potty training an older dog, whether due to potty-training regression or no training at all, is like potty training a puppy. The difference is that adult dogs have the physical ability to hold their elimination needs considerably longer than puppies. They may not know that, though, so you can help them learn. But that fact doesn’t mean that you can fast forward through the typical protocol suggestions. Consistent, methodical training is how you get a potty-trained dog. Here are the steps:
The usual protocol is to take your dog out first thing in the morning (before you do anything else aside from maybe a bathroom trip yourself) and actively supervise the dog. Bring treats so you can immediately reward the dog for an elimination. Be as enthusiastic as the dog’s temperament can allow once pottying occurs. Sound happy, even softly happy. I name the outings for pottying needs, as in “Let’s go potty!” This is for the future goal of expediency and focus. An additional reward for fast elimination can include a sniffari in the yard or a walk afterward. My preference is getting down to business first.
You may need to take your dog out again after breakfast. Meals should be at specific time frames/situational time frames, versus free feeding, to best determine bowel elimination needs. Each dog is different with how long they may need to eliminate after a meal. The age of the dog is also important as younger dogs process food much more quickly in general. When a dog starts sniffing the floor after meals, that is the cue to take them out just in case. My motto is, “When in doubt, take them out.”
Active supervision. Taking them out every few hours is a good general rule for adult potty training but, again, active supervision on your part when your dog is awake and mobile means that you are more likely to get them outside before they sneak off and you find a surprise.
Crating your new dog when home alone helps prevent accidents. But keep in mind that no dog should be left crated for lengthy periods. Especially with a new dog, it can cause emotional trauma. If you work outside of the home for a regular business day, then please consider a midday potty break courtesy of a dog walker/pet sitter.
The last potty of the day should be right before heading to bed, regardless of where your dog will sleep. Ideally, they will be sleeping in an area near enough to you that you may hear them whine in the middle of the night if they have to potty then.
Night Location. The dog’s overnight accommodation should be thought out with the possibility that if they are confined in some way, they will be unlikely to eliminate where they are sleeping. That can mean a crate, but it can also mean an ex-pen, preferably near where you sleep for both easy bonding as well as being within hearing range.
Every dog parent always wants to teach their dog to tell them that they need to go outside to potty. The thing is that your dog will develop their own “tell.” It’s up to you to be observant enough to notice what that is. The most common ones are walking to the door that is used most frequently for exiting to potty, coming up to you and staring at you, barking at a door, barking at you, and looking at you and then in the direction of the door. Dogs that have not been potty trained may not yet know what their “tell” is, but they will develop one. You need to look for it.
Puppy Potty Training Regression
If you’ve adopted a puppy who might have only been partially potty trained, just stick with the same above routine suggestions but add this step: When your puppy is playing heavily, they may simply stop playing and pee right where they are. This is perfectly normal, so don’t be alarmed or yell at them. Plan for this in future play sessions. Teach a take a break somewhere midway through the usual length of a play session to go out for a potty attempt. This will help your older puppy remember that telling you during play is the same as telling you at any other time.
It is also normal that an older puppy who gave you the impression that they were solidly potty-trained starts having accidents again somewhere around 7 months of age. That seems to be the common time frame where potty regressions can regularly occur. Just go back to basics as a refresher. Consistency and observation skills truly are your friends in a solid potty-training plan. Please don’t give up on your dog because of potty training regressions. This truly is the easiest issue to resolve.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”