The long, white whiskers on this pretty Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will help this dog navigate in poorly lit places. Credit: Victoriaarak | Getty Images
You can cut a dog’s whiskers, and they will grow back. The bigger question is, why do you need to cut your dog’s whiskers?
What Are Whiskers For?
Whiskers give the dog important sensory and protective information. Whiskers detect motion and are sensitive to air currents. If you touch his whiskers, your dog will often reflexively blink because of the information the whisker transmitted to the brain: Something is near the face, protect the eye! Whiskers serve an important sensory and protective function for your dog.
Dogs use whiskers to navigate in the dark. Whiskers help keep blind dogs, or dogs with another visual impairment, from running into objects. Whiskers work so well that many blind dogs can explore new environments so easily that a person watching could be fooled into thinking the blind dog can see.
What Are Whiskers?
Whiskers, also known as vibrissae, are specialized hairs that grow on the upper lip, chin, and above the eyes. Whiskers are present in many mammals, including dogs. Whiskers arise from specialized follicles in the skin and are thicker and stiffer than the normal coat. If the hair on your dog’s face is left to grow naturally, the whiskers often grow longer than the rest of the facial hair.
Cutting Dog Whiskers
Dogs have whiskers, but sometimes they are trimmed or clipped. This is often because in order to keep the fur on the face short, they are often clipped off with the rest of the facial fur, especially in breeds that grow longer facial hair, such as Poodles and Schnauzers. This helps to keep the face tidy, making it is easier to remove food or tear stains. Sometimes the whiskers are trimmed on dogs who compete in conformation (the Westminster Kennel Club show is an example of this), the rationale being that the whisker-free face presents a clearer picture of the dog’s head silhouette. Trimmed whiskers do eventually grow back.
If you’re worried about your dog and carbon monoxide poisoning, install carbon monoxide/CO detectors to protect you and your dog. Properly installed gas appliances that are well-maintained should not be a concern, but things can go wrong. CO detectors are critical for protection.
Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images
Carbon monoxide is just as deadly for your dog as it is for you. Don’t be fooled into thinking dogs can smell carbon monoxide and move away from it. Dogs cannot smell carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is odorless.
While there are reports of dogs refusing to go back into a home with carbon monoxide in it, it’s not because of the smell. It’s more likely those dogs are reacting to how awful they felt when they were inside versus how they feel outside in fresh air.
Signs and symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning in dogs include:
Behavioral changes (fear, aggression)
Drowsiness
Incoordination
Vomiting
Trouble breathing
Exercise intolerance
Rapid heartbeat
Bright red lips and gums
These signs will progress to collapse, seizures, coma, and death, if the exposure continues.
Get the Dog Outside
If you’re worried your dog may be suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning, GET HIM OUTSIDE! The treatment for carbon monoxide poisoning is oxygen. Oxygen will eventually displace the carbon monoxide, but it takes hours.
If your dog shows any of the signs described above, get to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Dogs with any of these symptoms will be hospitalized for pure 100% oxygen therapy (room air is only about 21% oxygen) and all necessary supportive measures.
Severity of Carbon Monoxide Exposure
Dogs without symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning may only require tincture of time in fresh air, but for your dog’s sake, check with your veterinarian to be sure. If you and/or your veterinarian are not sure whether there has been carbon monoxide exposure, a blood test called carboxyhemoglobin level can be run on your dog to determine exposure.
Severely affected dogs who show a lack of alertness or are comatose sometimes survive with aggressive treatment, although the prognosis is guarded. Those that do survive may later develop neurologic signs. This can happen anywhere from a few days to a few weeks after the event. It is called delayed encephalopathy, and it happens because of damage to the brain. The most common signs are deafness and blindness, and they are usually permanent.
Take Precautions
For your dog’s sake and your own, get your home checked by a heating professional. Remember, carbon monoxide is a byproduct of combustion, as in gas furnace, car, stove. Get recommendations for reliable, accurate carbon monoxide detectors—the EPA reports not all CO detectors are the same—and install them.
Carbon monoxide poisoning is better prevented than treated. Never use a gas heater or grill in unventilated areas. Never house your dog in your garage in case of accidentally leaving the car engine on, which is happening with increasing frequency due to super-quiet hybrid engines. And finally, if you don’t have carbon monoxide detectors in your home, get them.
How Carbon Monoxide Poisons
How does carbon monoxide poisoning happen? Carbon monoxide displaces oxygen off hemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying protein in bloodstream, and binds tightly to hemoglobin. This results in low oxygen levels in the blood (called hypoxemia), which results in low oxygen levels in the tissues (called hypoxia). No organs can function without oxygen.
Older dogs can gain a great deal from salmon oil, including improved movement and cognition, helping them continue to lead active, fun lives. Credit: Davids’Adventures Photos | Getty Images
Salmon oil is good for dogs and rich in omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 benefits for dogs include:
In addition, fish oil can help dogs with heart and kidney problems, and DHA is believed to help with eye and brain development in puppies.
The Best Salmon Oil Products
Choose a salmon oil product for your dog that includes both omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) as ingredients.
The ideal fish oil supplement is from fresh-caught, wild, cold-water fish. You want a product that has been screened for contaminants, such as heavy metals, and comes from a manufacturer who uses sustainable fishing practices in making the product.
Since pet supplements are not FDA-regulated, choose brands with the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) seal to ensure that quality ingredients are used and that the contents match the label claims.
Salmon Oil Side Effects
Start with a salmon oil dose of about 25% of the recommended dose on the product label and gradually work your way up. Not all dogs will tolerate maximum doses.
Dogs with clotting problems should probably avoid salmon oil. Drug interactions with other medications, such as NSAIDs, are possible, so always check with your veterinarian to see if salmon oil is appropriate for your dog, given his health history, current diet (which may already include omega-3 fatty acids), and medications.
All fish-oil products should be properly stored in a cool place, out of direct sunlight.
On March 4, CBC News (Canada’s publicly owned news and information service) ran a television and online report about an investigation of four companies that offer dog DNA tests that purport to identify the breeds in mixed-breed dogs. Within a day, practically everyone I know was posting links to the online report with comments like, “I knew those tests were bunk!”
In the past 15-plus years that they’ve been available, I’ve been skeptical of the ability of these commercial testing products myself. However, I will say that, in my experience – and that of the CBC report – two companies in particular seem to provide results that are at least in the ballpark of possibility for the most common dog breeds found in North America. And one company seems to have a pretty good handle on identifying the origin of mixed breed dogs from other parts of the world. My response to the report, though, takes in a few details that many commenters seemed to miss.
The CBC sent DNA samples for four individuals to four different companies that offer mixed-breed dog DNA tests: Accu-Metrics, DNA My Dog, Embark, and Wisdom Panel. But they picked odd (in my opinion) candidates to use for the tests: A human, a purebred Great Dane, a mixed-breed dog from Turkey, and a mixed-breed dog from Kuwait.
As far as the human sample was concerned: I was pleased to learn that Embark and Wisdom Panel immediately sussed out that no dog DNA was present in the sample. And was not terrifically surprised when Accu-Metrics and DNA My Dog returned various dog-breed mixes in their results for the human sample. (Before seeing this report, I had never heard of Accu-Metrics before, and, a long time ago, received similarly incredible results of a test from DNA My Dog.)
The latter two companies also failed to accurately identify the purebred Great Dane. Results from DNA MY Dog suggested the dog was mostly Great Dane, but also 10% -25% Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Accu-Metrics returned the breed that the CBC suggested on its submission form that the dog most resembled: a Chihuahua! I don’t see any need to further discuss any results – or ever recommend the services from – either of those two companies.
Both Embark and Wisdom Panel correctly identified the Great Dane as 100% Great Dane.
Mixed-Breed Dogs from Other Continents
I so wish that CBC had used mixed-breed dogs from North America as their last two “test dogs,” because there are likely to be very few representatives of the most common purebreds dogs on other continents in Embark’s and Wisdom Panel’s databases. The most common (or likely) mixed-breed dogs on the streets in Turkey and Kuwait are not likely to be the breeds that are most common (or likely candidates) mixed-breed dogs found in Canada or the U.S.
Wisdom Panel identified the breed mix for the Turkish dog as Segugio Italiano, Chihuahua, Anatolian Shepherd, German Shepherd, and Estrela Mountain Dog. Without information as to how common those dog breeds are found in Turkey, it’s impossible to know how accurate this might be. To its credit, Embark identified the breed mix of the same dog as 100% West Asian Village Dog – meaning they were able to pinpoint the mixed-breed dog’s geographical origins. I’d call that a home run!
Similarly, Embark identified the dog from Kuwait as 100% Arabian Village Dog – again, at least accurately identifying the dog’s geographical place of origin. (Kuwait is also located in West Asia, but also at the northern edge of Eastern Arabia.) Wisdom Panel identified the dog as being a mix of American Pit Bull Terrier, Chihuahua, German Shepherd, Segugio Italiano, and Xoloitzcuintle.
Comparing Embark and Wisdom Panel, the two leaders
I’m a little dubious about the idea that these two foreign-born dogs could share three breeds in their Wisdom Panel results (Chihuahua, German Shepherd, Segugio Italiano), so I’m rather more impressed with Embark’s performance here. However, I’d want to compare the results from these two companies on more prosaic mixed breed dogs from this continent before dismissing Wisdom Panel altogether. In our past comparisons, using my two mixed-breed dogs Otto and Woody, the results were pretty darn close.
Otto’s DNA Test Results:
Otto’s Embark DNA TestOtto’s Wisdom Panel DNA Test
Woody’s DNA Test Results:
Woody’s Embark DNA TestWoody’s Wisdom Panel DNA Test
Back when I was still fostering Boone, my 1-year-old adolescent dog, I ordered a DNA test kit from Wisdom Panel, and these were the results:
But I think I am going to go ahead and order a test kit from Embark, to compare these results. I have a feeling, based on the CBC report, that I might invest a little more confidence in Embark’s results, but I’ll let you know!
Just because resource guarding is a natural behavior doesn’t mean you or your other family members (including other dogs) have to live with an ever-present risk of being bitten. The first step to managing this food-related aggression is to not feed your dogs in a situation like the one above, which promotes guarding. Dogs should have a safe space to eat alone in peace. Photo by K_Thalhofer, Getty Images
Food aggression in dogs can be very scary. Indeed, it can be downright dangerous!
Food aggression is a subset of a larger behavior known as “resource guarding,” in which a dog behaves aggressively to maintain possession of valuable objects including food, toys, chew items, humans, and even favorite places (beds, crates, couches, rooms). Resource guarding, scary as it may be, is a natural, normal canine behavior – one that’s critically important for a wild dog’s survival. If canines in the wild don’t protect their valuable resources, they die.
Of course, your dog doesn’t have to protect his food supply in order to survive – but it’s up to you to manage his environment so he doesn’t feel like he has to! To prevent, reduce, and/or manage your dog’s food aggression, take these actions:
Feed your dog in a low-traffic, stress-free zone and leave her alone while she eats. She shouldn’t feel threatened by others (human or animal) invading her dining space.
Teach your dog that when you approach her food bowl she gets more good stuff. This is accomplished by walking past her as she eats – at a distance that doesn’t cause her stress – and tossing high-value treats (such as fresh, roasted chicken) to her as you pass by. When, after multiple repetitions of this, she grows very happy to see you approaching, you can gradually decrease the distance between you and her bowl as you pass by, until you can toss the treats right into her bowl without causing her any stress. (See “The ‘I Come in Peace’ Resource-Guarding Modification Protocol,” WDJ May 2020.)
Teach your dog a force-free “trade” behavior. Use this cue any time you want something that she has. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Trade,” February 2017.)
Dog-dog food aggression can worsen over time
Some dog friends communicate perfectly and politely about food they’d both like to have. Ideally, if a dog is approached by another dog while eating, she would send polite canine social signals to leave her alone – such as pausing into a brief “freeze” while eating, giving him a hard stare, and he would back off. The behavior says, “Go away, this is my dinner!” The interloper says, “Oops, sorry!” and moves away. This is a best-case scenario: conflict resolved without escalation.
If the interloper is oblivious to or doesn’t understand the guarder’s signals and continues forward, the guarder may escalate to get her message across and protect her food; she may snarl, snap, and/or lunge. One hopes the interloper gets the message, offers appeasement behaviors, and moves away, and the guarder calms down and goes back to eating.
These two levels of “aggression” may not require any intervention or behavior change on your part – as long as the encounters don’t progress to the next levels.
Sometimes, the interloper may inappropriately take offense at the guarder’s “Go away!” message and bolt forward with a “How dare you, I really want that food!” response. The guarder may aggressively defend her meal and blood may be shed. And in the worst-case scenario, the guarder may launch across the room and proactively attack the other dog. She may also develop a very negative association with the interloper’s approach and attack violently every time her bowl is approached. This could have a detrimental effect on the dogs’ relationship even when food isn’t present.
If you fail to manage your dogs’ mealtimes or address their conflicts over food, these misunderstandings may grow more common (and perhaps even more bloody).
Management rules
The first step toward preventing food-guarding aggression between dogs is management. A dog shouldn’t have to warn other dogs away from her food. The dogs should be fed at least 10 feet apart, and their owner should play “food police” during their meals so whomever gets done first can’t go bug the other/s. Better yet, feed dogs in separate rooms, in crates, or use baby gates or exercise pens to physically separate them during meals. Diligent management may be enough to prevent food aggression altercations.
Modifying aggression
It’s possible to modify your dog’s aggressive food-guarding behavior in the presence of other dogs, but there are at least two challenges to overcome. The first is that it can be difficult to manage the behavior of the other family dogs when the food-aggressive dog is eating. The second is that we usually use high-value treats to change a dog’s association with the presence of another dog – but this could increase the food-guarding response.
To address both of those challenges, you can try the “I Come in Peace” protocol mentioned above, but with your second dog on leash as you pass by and toss treats to the dog who guards. You’ll need to be sure to keep your leashed dog focused on you so he doesn’t go for the tossed treats as well. That would be a disaster! This works best if a second person handles the leashed dog and keeps him focused while you toss treats.
Alternatively, you could use Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT). For this, the guarding dog is eating on leash, with one person holding the leash as you approach with a second dog, also on leash. The instant you see tension in the guarding dog, you stop approaching and stand still, mentally marking that spot, and waiting until there’s any small decrease in the guarding dog’s tension. The moment you see that, you immediately turn and walk away with the second dog.
You repeat this multiple times until the guarding dog doesn’t show any tension when you reach the marked spot with the leashed dog. At that point, you start approaching the guarding dog just one step closer than before. You’re teaching your guarding dog that relaxing makes the other dog go away, so she no longer feels the need to be aggressive to protect her good stuff.
Of course, you’ll still need to manage future interactions so your approaching dog doesn’t blithely invade the eating dog’s space. CAT is a somewhat complex procedure, and you may need the assistance of a qualified force-free professional to properly implement it.
Managing a resource-guarding dog’s behavior and environment is simple – but not always easy – and vital for keeping peace in the household. Just remember that dogs have a right to keep their good stuff, and it’s your responsibility to make that happen without coercion or conflict.
What Not to Do About Food Aggression
Following the outdated and widely debunked “dominance theory,” some trainers encourage owners to engage in very inappropriate behaviors – such as taking food away from dogs without warning, or putting their hands in the dog’s bowl while the dog is eating – in a misguided attempt to prove to the dog that the human is the boss or “alpha.” Be aware that coercive or intrusive training approaches such as these usually exacerbate canine food and possession aggression. These actions can also create guarding behavior in dogs who might not otherwise guard!
Don’t ever do the following:
Mess with your dog while she’s eating. Don’t stick your hands in her food bowl, pet her, or repeatedly take the unfinished food bowl away. Wouldn’t it make you angry (or at least quite annoyed) if someone did that to you?
Forcibly take things from your dog’s mouth. This increases her resistance and makes her more likely to bite.
Allow others to invade your dog’s space while she’s eating. Whether it’s a human, dog, or other household animal companion (cat, rabbit, etc.), she’s entirely within her rights to tell them to leave her food alone!
If your behavior is appropriate around your dog and the resources that are valuble to her, she’ll be calm and comfortable with your presence, and the potential for aggressive guarding greatly decreases.
Small breed dogs are those who weigh 20 pounds or less. While the Association of American Feed Control Officials – the organization that develops the nutritional standards that define “complete and balanced” diets for dogs – does not have any nutrient recommendations specifically for small breed dogs, there may be some merit to feeding your little dog a diet specifically formulated for small breeds.
Small Dog Nutrition
To begin with, small dogs have slight, relatively weak jaws. That’s why small-dog-specific foods are made with smaller, lower-density kibbles that are easier for your pet to chew.
Small dogs have a higher mass-specific basal metabolic rate (BMR) compared to their large dog counterparts. This means that, per pound of body weight, small dogs burn more calories while at rest. In fact, a study found that Papillons have a mass-specific BMR that is more than 50% higher than that of Great Danes.1 Small dogs also show a trend of having a higher percentage of lean body mass than large dogs.2
Because of this, small dogs require diets that are calorically dense and high in digestible protein to help meet their increased energy requirements and maintain their lean muscle mass. The addition of L-carnitine to the diet also helps with lean body mass maintenance and helps to burn fat more efficiently.
One of the many health advantages that small dogs possess (relative to large dogs) is their long average lifespan. Their metabolism, combined with their age, can lead to high oxidative stress, which can have negative impacts on their immune health. Inclusion of antioxidants (such as vitamins E and C) in the diet can help alleviate some of this oxidative stress, reducing inflammation and boosting immunity.
With age also comes joint degradation, so providing chondroprotective agents (such as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, glucosamine, and chondroitin) can help keep our little canine companions bouncing through their senior years.
Pet food labels are required by law to be truthful. So look for small-breed-specific formulas that include claims on the packaging asserting these small-dog needs have been met by the formulation, such as: L-carnitine to support healthy weight, high in protein to support lean muscle mass, added antioxidants for immune support, etc. You can also look at the ingredients list for added L-carnitine and vitamin E.
Most important
Above all, keeping our small companions at an appropriate weight and body condition is vital for their health and overall well-being. Obese dogs, regardless of size, experience higher rates of cancer, osteoarthritis, and shorter average lifespans, so it is important to follow proper feeding guidelines and the advice of your veterinarian.
References:
Speakman JR, Van Acker A, Harper EJ. “Age-Related Changes in the Metabolism and Body Composition of Three Dog Breeds and Their Relationship to Life Expectancy,” Aging Cell, 2003; 2:265-275.
Middleton RP. “Small Dog Metabolism and Other Unique Characteristics.” Purina Institute, 2017; 41-44.
When it comes to the gear that your dog wears in order to stay connected and communicating with you, his or her comfort should be the chief selection criteria. The product’s security is also important. Photo by Capuski / Getty Images
There are so many dogs collars and harnesses to choose from, and so much conflicting information comparing a dog collar vs harnesses! How do you know which is best for your puppy – or your adult dog? While the answer is “it depends,” here are some guidelines to help you choose the best gear for your canine companion.
Dog Collars vs Harnesses: Gear to dismiss from consideration
The easiest part of selecting collars or harnesses is determining which ones to dismiss. We disqualify from consideration any equipment that’s designed to cause pain or discomfort to your dog. This includes shock collars (marketed euphemistically as “e-collars”), prong and choke collars, and “no-pull” harnesses that tighten around your dog’s barrel. Don’t let anyone tell you that these aren’t aversive. They are; that’s how they control the dog, through pain.
We prefer to teach dogs how to behave on leash, rather than just inflict discomfort in order to suppress their pulling or other unwanted behavior.
Next, we recommend rejecting any equipment that your dog finds aversive, even if it isn’t designed or intended to be. If you use gear that your dog clearly hates, it will be difficult for her to happily learn and cooperate with you.
We love the Perfect Fit Modular Fleece-Lined Harness. These are comprised of three separate components (two components for tiny dogs)– girth, front, and top – each of which is measured and ordered separately for a perfect fit! Available from cleanrun.com. Photo by Nancy Kerns
There are some products that most dogs dislike when initially introduced, such as head halters. Most dogs require a very slow, tactful introduction and considerable conditioning to regard these products as acceptable – and many owners find the counter-conditioning and desensitization process required to get their dogs to accept head halters (in particular) to be excruciatingly slow going. If your dog shows she hates her head halter, I’d recommend setting it aside.
Vibration collars are often marketed as aversive, but if you build a positive association for your dog with the vibration from the start, it can be used in a positive way. Owners of deaf dogs often use vibration collars to signal or cue their dogs for various behaviors, but a dog doesn’t have to be deaf for the collar to be used in this way. But again, if your dog shows you that she finds the vibration aversive, despite your efforts to counter-condition and desensitize her to it, it’s a no-go. (See “Vibration Collars: What You Should Know,” WDJ November 2019, for more information about using vibration collars in a positive way for cuing your dog.)
Most dogs are happy with a regular harness, and these are generally considered to be non-aversive. However, if your dog runs away from you when you pick up her harness she’s telling you she hates it; cross it off your list!
Gear we like
A leash is clipped to both rings on Chinook & Co.’s breakaway safety collar, allowing it to be used as a regular walking collar. With the leash unclipped, the breakaway feature is enabled again. See breakawaycollar.com. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Every collar or harness has the potential to be aversive if improperly used, so even our approved training tools should be used correctly – no yanking, jerking, or hanging, please! In general, our favorite gear for walking dogs includes:
Generally, flat collars, properly fitted martingale collars, and front-and/or back-clip harnesses are our first tools of choice.
For dogs who don’t pull, flat collars and back-clip harnesses are perfect.
If your dog has learned to back out of her collar, martingale collars can be a lifesaver. Sometimes called “Greyhound collars,” martingale collars are ideal for dogs with very narrow skulls, as well as thick-necked dogs whose heads are smaller than their necks. These “limited slip” collars tighten with leash tension, but only to a certain point – just enough to prevent them from slipping over the dog’s head.
Martingale collars can tighten to prevent the dog from slipping free, but can’t tighten enough to choke the dog. Many of them have to be pulled over the dog’s head and then adjusted so they can no longer be pulled over the head. We prefer the models that have a quick-release buckle, which don’t require constant adjustments. Photo by Nancy Kerns
For dogs who pull, we like the newer generation of front-clip harnesses. These products don’t have straps that go across the shoulder and impede the dog’s movement. See “The Best Front Clip Harnesses,” April 2017, for our favorites. We find head halters and vibration collars to be acceptable for dogs who are comfortable with them.
We recommend breakaway collars for dogs who play and wrestle with a lot of mouth-to-neck biting. Alternatively, remove your dogs’ collars before they play – or when you leave them together unsupervised – to prevent potentially deadly choking accidents.
Choosing a collar for puppies requires the utmost of care. It should be obvious that aversive tools are off the table, but even flat collars have potential to significantly damage baby-soft tracheas if you have a puppy who pulls. Be extra careful with your baby dog to be sure you aren’t putting pressure on that tender throat; a harness is generally a better choice.
You Choose
There is no pat answer to the collar/harness question. Review the options, get some help (if needed) with the fit of the product you choose, watch to see how your dog responds to your choice – and make changes accordingly. And remember to train your dog, so pulling becomes less of an issue regardless of what equipment you choose. (See “Polite Leash Walking,” September 2021, and “No Need for Force: How to Stop Your Dog From Pulling on the Leash,” April 2022.)
If your dog doesn’t swim well, he should be introduced to the water wearing a top-quality canine flotation device. But whether he’s a swimming novice or an expert, take the time to make sure he knows where the pool stairs are located and doesn’t try to get out of the pool anywhere else. Photo by Stephanie Colman
The term “dog paddle” has become synonymous with staying afloat in the water. It’s the first swim stroke most children learn – moving their hands and legs alternately – in a way that’s similar to how experienced dogs and other quadrupedal mammals swim.
The key word is “experienced.” Inexperienced (or panicked) dogs often concentrate their efforts on the front legs, forgetting to fire up the back end. Front-end-only swimming is ineffective and leaves dogs near-vertical in the water. It creates a lot of disorienting splashing, requires tremendous energy, and is a dangerous way for your dog to enjoy a dip in the pool, lake, or ocean.
The following two tips will help your dog improve his swim stroke:
Support your dog’s back end. Joining your dog in the water and gently supporting his back end as he swims can help him learn to level out and begin using his front and rear legs in unison. For dogs who still lag in kicking their rear legs, touching their feet underwater can prompt kicking.
Use a well-fitted life jacket. A dog life jacket can help keep your dog afloat and help anxious swimmers begin to relax enough to think about paddling with all four legs. (See “Dog Life Jacket Review,” WDJ August 2021, for recommendations.)
Dog Water Safety Training
Keep these things in mind to help ensure safe swimming:
Body type matters! Your dog’s breed, build, and overall health have a lot to do with how effectively she can handle herself in the water. Breeds with broad chests and shorter legs (Bulldogs, Corgis, Pugs, etc.) aren’t designed for effective swimming. Heavily muscled dogs – like many of the so-called “bully” breeds – exert a lot of energy in the water due to their greater body mass.
Teach your dog to safely enter and exit the pool. Ideally, your dog will enter and exit the pool only via the steps. Even accomplished swimmers can drown while unsuccessfully trying to claw their way out from the edge of the pool. And dog cannonball entrances, while fun to watch, are unsafe when dogs and people are simultaneously in the water.
Start by making the top step of the pool a great place to be by feeding your dog high-value treats at that location. Eventually carry or guide your dog into the water a few feet from the steps and release him to swim back to the steps where a party awaits. Repeat until your dog is patterned to head toward the steps from any direction.
Everything in moderation. Swimming is a great way for dogs to burn excess energy, stay in shape, and even shed some unwanted pounds, but don’t overdo it. The more overweight the dog, the faster he will tire. Watch out for “weekend warrior syndrome,” where a dog who is mostly sedentary suddenly gets too much exercise. Dogs, like people, experience muscle soreness and stiffness.
Swim school for dogs
If you want to make sure your dog will be safe near and in the water, but aren’t comfortable teaching the skills yourself, look for a positive reinforcement trainer to help you. Many dog trainers offer water safety training and many training facilities features pools where your dog can perfect his skills and enjoy fun water play.
There are many orthopedic conditions that can affect our dogs, but the one that strikes fear in the hearts of most dog parents is hip dysplasia. With early detection, hip dysplasia can be successfully managed in puppies. Even dogs with arthritis secondary to hip dysplasia can have an improved quality of life with surgical intervention or medical management.
Hip dysplasia is the malformation of the hip joint during a puppy’s growth period. The hip joint is composed of two parts: the head of the femur (ball) and the acetabulum (socket). This is why the hip is known as a ball and socket joint.
When a puppy grows, the head of the femur and the acetabulum need to grow at a uniform rate. This creates a snug fit of the ball within the socket. In hip dysplasia, the head of the femur and the acetabulum grow at different rates, creating laxity within the joint.
To demonstrate what this looks like, form a fist with your left hand. This represents the head of the femur. Now cup your right hand snugly over your fist. This represents the acetabulum. Rotate your fist inside of your cupped hand; this is how the ball of the hip moves naturally within the socket.
In a puppy or dog with hip dysplasia, the acetabulum does not fit snugly around the ball of the femur. Relax the fingers on your right hand so they are no longer snugly cupping your fist. Now rotate and move your fist within your right hand. Your fist has a lot more space to move around; this is analogous to the joint laxity in hip dysplasia.
When the ball sloshes around in the socket, the cartilage lining the ball collides with the cartilage lining the socket in unnatural ways. Over time, your dog’s body creates scar tissue along the edges of the cartilage to stabilize the hip joint. This scar tissue is not smooth like cartilage; it is bumpy and irregular.
A hip joint that is lined with scar tissue is known as an arthritic joint. Walking with an arthritic hip joint is painful. Your dog may exhibit periodic or chronic lameness. Dogs that live with a low level of chronic pain may not always exhibit lameness. But they will often have a shortened stride in their hind limbs or have atrophied thigh muscles because they cannot fully extend their hips.
What causes hip dysplasia in dogs?
Hip dysplasia is a hereditary condition that is influenced by several environmental factors during a puppy’s growth period. These factors include nutrition, exercise, and growth rate. Any breed of dog can be affected by hip dysplasia, although it is more commonly seen in large breed dogs such as German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and Saint Bernards.
Large breed puppies (any puppy that will weigh more than 50 pounds as an adult) should be fed a high-quality large breed puppy food. Puppy food that is formulated specifically for large breeds delivers a more controlled amount of calcium and protein to ensure proper bone development.
All puppies regardless of breed or size should be kept lean as they grow and not be allowed to gain excess weight. Being overweight puts additional strain on the hip joints and promotes joint laxity. The best way to ensure that your puppy grows at the correct rate is to feed two or three meals daily and follow your veterinarian’s recommendation on how much to feed at each meal.
Strenuous exercise in puppies, such as long hikes or going for long runs, can lead to premature excessive muscle development. This can contribute to laxity of the hip by changing the mechanical forces on the joint as it develops.
What are the signs of hip dysplasia in dogs?
Puppies who have hip dysplasia may walk with a bunny hop gait in their hind limbs. However, many puppies with hip dysplasia show no overt signs of lameness or gait abnormalities.
As dogs with hip dysplasia age and develop arthritic hip joints, they may show periodic lameness, a reluctance to use stairs, and may be slow to rise from a sitting or laying position. It is important to note that not all arthritic hip joints are caused by hip dysplasia. And the aforementioned signs can also be caused by osteoarthritis in joints other than the hips. Have your dog assessed by his veterinarian to determine the underlying cause of his discomfort and formulate a treatment plan.
How is hip dysplasia diagnosed?
The gold standard for diagnosing hip dysplasia is with radiographs (x-rays) of the hips. Your dog will require moderate to heavy sedation or even a brief period of anesthesia to complete these radiographs.
Owners would be wise to err on the conservative side with pups who are of one of the breeds that are most frequently plagued with hip dysplasia. Jumping should be extremely limited – and daily jogging with a dog under a year old is ill-advised in a vulnerable breed. Photo by Anita Kot /Getty Images
There are two radiographic methods for diagnosing hip dysplasia. One method involves completing a single radiograph of your dog’s hips while he is laying on his back with his hind limbs extended. This is called an extended ventrodorsal view of the pelvis. This radiograph can be interpreted by a board-certified veterinary radiologist or submitted to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) for analysis and certification.
The second method is a specialized set of radiographs called PennHIP (this stands for the University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program). The PennHIP method requires three views of your dog’s hips. The first view is the extended ventrodorsal view discussed above and is used to detect if any arthritic changes are evident in the hip joints.
The second view simulates how the hip joints would appear if your dog were held up in a standing but non-weight bearing position. The third view simulates how your dog’s hip joints would appear if he were standing and bearing weight on his hind limbs. This is achieved through the use of a special positioning device for his hind limbs.
The extended ventrodorsal view of the pelvis is the most widely used radiographic method for diagnosing hip dysplasia. It can be done by any veterinarian and requires no special equipment or additional training. However, this method does not take into account the forces that apply pressure to the hips when a dog is standing. Therefore, the hips of some dogs with hip dysplasia may appear normal using this method. Also, this view may not be diagnostic in dogs who are less than 1 year old.
In contrast, the PennHIP method can be used to detect if a puppy is likely to develop hip dysplasia. This method can be used in puppies as young as 4 months old. Only veterinarians who have undergone specialized training can utilize the PennHIP method to screen for and diagnose hip dysplasia.
There is a simple palpation technique to screen for hip dysplasia that can be completed during a puppy’s wellness exam. This palpation technique, called the Ortolani Sign, tests for laxity of the hip joint. Light sedation may be required to relax the muscles around the hip (and to better control a wiggly puppy!).
A positive Ortolani Sign indicates the presence of hip dysplasia. However, some puppies with hip dysplasia may have a negative Ortolani Sign. The PennHIP method has been shown to be a more accurate screening tool for hip dysplasia in puppies as young as 4 months old.
Hip dysplasia in dogs treatment
There are two surgical options for puppies with hip laxity and two surgical options for dogs with hip dysplasia. Medical management is also an option for dogs who are unable to undergo surgery.
Hip dysplasia is a hereditary condition that is influenced by several environmental factors during a puppy’s growth period. These factors include nutrition, exercise, and growth rate. Photo by Picture Alliance Images / Getty Images
Puppies who have been diagnosed with hip laxity between 10 and 18 weeks of age may benefit from a surgical procedure called Juvenile Pubic Symphysiodesis (JPS). This simple procedure prematurely closes a growth plate in the bottom of the pelvis. Closing this growth plate causes the acetabulum to cup the head of the femur more as it grows over the next 4 to 6 months, minimizing joint laxity and the development of hip dysplasia. Puppies with hip laxity who are older than 18 weeks of age are not candidates for this procedure.
Puppies between 4½ and 10 months of age who have been diagnosed with hip dysplasia may benefit from a procedure called a double or triple pelvic osteotomy (DPO or TPO). In this surgical procedure, two or three cuts are made in the pelvis. Then the acetabulum is rotated so that it properly cups the head of the femur.
Only puppies with mild to moderate hip laxity qualify for the DPO or TPO procedure. Puppies with severe hip laxity, lameness, or evidence of arthritic changes to their hips on radiographs should not undergo a DPO or TPO.
Adult dogs with hip dysplasia have two surgical options to improve their quality of life and give them pain-free movement of their hips. These procedures are total hip replacement (THR) or femoral head osteotomy (FHO).
A total hip replacement involves replacing the femoral head and the acetabulum with metal and plastic implants. This is similar to the procedure that is done in humans. THR gives dogs with hip dysplasia the best possible chance to return to a normal and pain-free activity level.
The FHO procedure is the complete removal of the femoral head, or ball of the hip joint. No replacement ball is installed in the femur. Over the next few months after surgery, the dog’s body develops scar tissue around what remains of the hip joint to create a false joint. Removing the head of the femur eliminates the pain associated with the arthritic hip but does not allow for full range of motion of the hip joint. Dogs who undergo an FHO will be more comfortable and pain-free but will not be restored to their pre-arthritic activity level.
Medical management of hip dysplasia and the associated arthritis consists of light daily exercise, the use of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) and other medications to treat pain, cartilage protectant supplements such as glucosamine and chondroitin, an omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acid supplement, and physical therapy.
Dogs with hip dysplasia should not be allowed to become overweight. Being overweight increases the strain on a dog’s arthritic hip joints. Talk with your veterinarian about an appropriate medical management plan for your dog.
With appropriate intervention and management, dogs with hip dysplasia can lead a relatively normal life. Early intervention is the key to maintaining pain-free mobility and an active lifestyle.
Runts will often catch up to their siblings if they get a full share of mom’s milk, so most breeders keep a close eye on things to ensure no one is shoved away. Credit: Stefan Cristian Cioata | Getty Images
What is a runt puppy? By definition, the word “runt” refers to an animal who is smaller than average. Runt is also used to refer to the smallest pup in a litter, who may or may not be smaller than average size. It’s important to realize that, after birth, runt puppy development is usually normal.
Runt Puppy Development
If needed, breeders will supplement puppies who are not getting enough of mom’s milk, but it’s now recommended to be one of the bigger pups, allowing runts to get nourishment from the mother. Credit: Laures | Getty Images
While birth size is important, the smallest born pup usually catches up to his siblings and might even surpass them at adulthood. Why he was born as the smallest pup isn’t clear. It could be he was a day later in the fertilization process, or his placenta wasn’t providing as many nutrients as the other puppies were receiving. Still, with momma dog providing plenty of milk, the runt usually catches up in size.
Concerns with a runt puppy include making sure he gets his fair share at the milk bar and doesn’t get shoved out of the way by his bigger siblings. Previously, people would supplement the runt, but current recommendations are to allow the runt separate feeding times so he can get his fill of the mom’s nutritious milk, supplementing one of the bigger pups instead, if necessary.
Runt of the Litter Health Problems
Don’t believe old wives’ tales about runt of the litter health problems. Being born smaller does not necessarily mean the puppy has or will have health problems. What matters is how the runt develops.
Puppies who do not develop and remain smaller than the rest of the litter may have health problems. Common problems that can cause a pup to lag behind include heart defects, a cleft palate, and gastrointestinal problems such as a liver shunt or blocked anus. Any organ defect may contribute to small size and potential illness or death.
If the runt puppy does not make up for this smaller size fairly quickly, have him evaluated by a veterinarian. You can detect a cleft palate yourself and sometimes you can “feel” a serious heart murmur right through the chest, but you still need veterinary documentation and direction.
Runt Puppy Personality
If your pup checks out as healthy but is just small, you’re good to go. Runt of the litter personalities are usually very positive. Runt puppies often get handled more and loved on more, so they are usually well socialized and happy. They still need to learn boundaries, however, so don’t spoil them. Let their dam handle interactions if she is a good mother.
Frequent sneezing and rhinitis (inflammation of the nasal tissues) are often symptoms of nasal polyps in a dog. Credit: Supalak Kosiyakue/EyeEm | Getty Images
Nasal polyps in dogs are growths that often develop due to chronic rhinitis, which is inflammation of the lining of the nose. These pink growths consist of fluid and connective tissue. Although nasal polyps are not common in dogs, compared to cats, male dogs have a slightly higher risk.
Symptoms of Polyps
A pinkish growth in the moist tissues of the nose/throat that may not be visible, except possibly near the nostrils
Discharge from one or both nostrils (may be bloody)
Increased sneezing
Obstructed, difficult, or noisy breathing
Dogs tend to have a single polyp but can have more than one. Diagnosis is generally done via endoscopy/rhinoscopy or radiographs. A CT gives a clear diagnosis but is not always needed.
Causes of Nasal Polyps
Exposure to environmental irritants, such as cigarette smoke and air pollution
Genetic predisposition
Chronic inflammation to the nasal tissues (rhinitis)
Canine nasal polyps tend to be benign, or noncancerous. However, dog nasal polyps frequently occur with nasal carcinoma, according to a study from the University of Pennsylvania published November 2019 in Veterinary Pathology.
Treatment
Treatment is most successful with surgery. Endoscopic debulking, which is removing as much of the tumor as possible, possibly with a laser, is an option. A biopsy should be done on the tissue. Radiation has been used for a few cases. Medical treatment is generally steroids, but that’s not especially effective, compared to debulking (see study published July 2021 in The Canadian Veterinary Journal).
Recurrence is possible with any treatment and more likely if your dog has multiple polyps.
Warning: Natural Treatments for Nasal Polyps
There is currently no safe, effective natural treatment for nasal polyps in dogs. In humans, various essential oils have been tried but success is varied. Some of these oils can be toxic to dogs, so it’s best to avoid them.
It’s unlikely this pretty Husky knows that the soybean field he’s in is one of many in the United States, the world’s largest soybean producer. Credit: Perytskyy | Getty Images
Seeing soy in a dog food ingredient list may not sound like something a dog would like to eat. Indeed, ingredients like soybean meal, soy protein concentrate, soy protein isolate, and soybean oil may make you raise an eyebrow. But before you start searching pet-food shelves for soy-free dog food, let’s talk about what purpose soy serves in dog food. It’s a big one.
Soy Complements Animal Protein
To say that dogs have a protein requirement is misleading. Truthfully, dogs have amino acid requirements, which are the building blocks of proteins. Of the 20 amino acids, 10 are essential in dogs, meaning dogs cannot produce or synthesize high enough quantities of them to meet their biological requirement. They must instead obtain these amino acids from their diet.
Each protein source, whether plant or animal, has a different amino acid profile, with some levels of amino acids being higher than others. Proteins also vary in bioavailability, with some protein sources being utilized more efficiently than others. The term “limiting amino acids” refers to essential amino acids that are naturally in short supply but utilized in the highest quantities. In dogs, those amino acids include methionine and lysine.
That is where soy products come in. Soy is very high in lysine and complements animal protein sources very well. While raw soybeans do contain anti-nutritional factors that can negatively impact digestion, the soy products commonly used in commercial pet foods have had many of those components removed.
Soy That’s Good for Dogs
Obviously, soy that is used in dog foods should be included in a form that is easy to digest and benefits the dog’s health. These types of soy include:
Soy protein concentrate. This is soybean meal that has gone through additional processing to further isolate the protein and contains much lower levels of oligosaccharides, decreasing its impact on digestibility and stool quality. This process results in a nutrient-dense, highly digestible ingredient.
Soy protein isolate. This type of soybean protein contains none of the carbohydrates or fiber found in soybean meal. This ingredient is the most concentrated source of soy protein and is highly digestible by dogs.
Soybean oil. As the name implies, soybean oil is the extracted fat from the whole soybean. Soybean oil provides energy and is a good source of the essential omega-6 fatty acid, linoleic acid.
The form of soy that most dog foods limit or avoid is soybean meal, which is the defatted flakes of soybeans. Soybean meal is used as a protein source as well as a source of energy. Of the soy ingredients used, this ingredient has the highest number of oligosaccharides, a type of carbohydrate that is not digested by dogs. The presence of oligosaccharides can negatively impact stool quality and increase flatulence. Because of this, soybean meal in dog food is limited.
From a nutritional standpoint, soy can provide a good source of digestible amino acids for pets. While some dogs may have sensitivities or allergies to soy products and should opt for soy-free dog food and treats, for many others, it is a viable ingredient.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
