Deciding when to switch from puppy foods rests heavily on when the dog will reach maturity. Small dogs stop growing at an earlier age than large dogs. Credit: Hillary Kladke | Getty Images
Proper nutrition is vital for puppies, and puppy food has been specially formulated to meet all the nutritional needs of a growing, developing dog. But when should you stop feeding puppy food and make a switch to adult dog food? The short answer is it depends on your puppy.
Dogs are the most diverse species of land mammal, with weights that range from under 1 pound for some of the smallest breeds to over 150 pounds for several of the giant breeds. Because of this great variation, the amount of time it takes for a dog to reach maturity depends primarily on their expected adult size.
When the Dog Stops Growing
Small-breed dogs mature more quickly than the larger breeds and, therefore, do not need to stay on a diet designed for growth and development—a puppy food—as long. The general rule of thumb is that a dog can be transitioned to adult dog food once they are mature, or done growing, and this typically is around the 1-year mark for most small- and medium-sized dogs. For large- and giant-breed dogs, this benchmark is pushed back as these dogs may not finish growing until they are 2 years old.
All Life Stages Formulas
If you have reservations about whether your young dog is ready to transition directly to an adult maintenance formula food, you may want to consider switching to an “all life stages” formula instead. These complete and balanced diets are formulated to meet the AAFCO-defined nutritional requirements for puppies, adults, and pregnant/nursing mothers. That means your dog can stay on an all life stages formula throughout their adulthood as well as puppyhood. However, for dogs weighing over 70 pounds—these are the giant breeds—the AAFCO statement should say, “including growth of large-size dogs (70 pounds or more as an adult)” to keep your big dog happy and healthy.
Should your dog go vegan? Research is lacking. Can your dog go vegan? Yes, with the help of a nutritionist. Credit: Photoboyko | Getty Images
All dogs can be vegan, provided their nutritional needs are met. Dogs are omnivores, able to utilize nutrients from both meat and plant-based foods. Dogs require protein in their diet, but that protein can come from either meat or plants. And yes, dogs can digest carbs—it’s one of the key differences between dogs and modern wolves.
Research on Vegan Dogs
Overall, research on feeding a dog a vegan diet is limited. A study published in PLOS ONE in 2022 concluded that nutritionally sound vegan diets may be healthier than conventional or raw diets. Unfortunately, some of the study’s methods raised questions, such as the number and ages of the dogs studied. More work needs to be done.
A 2023 study from Veterinary Sciences determined there is little solid research about the impact of a vegan diet on a dog’s health, also citing small sample sizes. Still, said the researchers, there’s no evidence showing the vegan diet is bad on a dog’s health. This study recommended that if you want to feed vegan, you stick with a commercial vegan diet. We recommend that the food you choose is formulated to meet AAFCO nutritional recommendations.
Other nutritionists suggest sort of walking the line. Rather than going full vegan, include eggs, dairy, and/or fish in your dog’s diet.
And, for some dogs, vegan diets may help with some health issues. “For some dogs, such as those with food allergies, liver issues, and even some urinary stones, vegan diets can be considered therapeutic. There are some well-balanced commercial diet options available that have been helping the management of these issues for a long time,” said veterinary nutritionist Renee Streeter DVM, DACVIM, in an article in Cornell DogWatch.
It’s Not Easy to be Vegan
Feeding a dog a vegan diet is challenging. The diet must provide your dog with everything that she needs while feeding a vegan diet. Although there are commercial options—Natural Balance, Canidae, Addiction Foods, Halo, and more—many owners still prefer to make a homemade diet for their dogs. Homemade diets are notorious for nutrient deficiencies, including many recipes you find online, that can lead to health problems.
If you’re determined to feed your dog vegan, consult with a veterinary nutritionist to formulate a nutritionally balanced recipe or choose a commercial diet with an AAFCO statement on the label. In general, vegan diets are often lower in protein and amino acids than meat diets, and these nutrients are essential to good health. Nutritionists are skilled at being creative to meet the unique nutritional needs of dogs and can ensure that your dog is getting everything that he needs while still following your vegan preferences.
While yeast infection pictures of a dog’s ear may resemble what you’re seeing in your dog’s ears, the only true way to know what’s wrong with the ear is a veterinary examination. Credit: bymuratdeniz | Getty Images
Your dog naturally has yeast on her body, and it normally doesn’t cause trouble. The issue is when it grows out of control. Dog ears – especially floppy drop ears – are a perfect home for a variety of microbes including yeast. These ears are enclosed and warm, so all that is needed is a little moisture and/or irritation and an infection can be at hand.
Possible causes of yeast infections include:
Chronic moisture in the ear from lots of swimming or baths
Bacterial infection
Debris stuck in the ear
Damage to the ear drum
Allergies
A tumor or polyp in the ear canal
What Does a Yeast Infection Look Like on a Dog?
If you search for “yeast dog ear infection picture,” you’ll come up with a lot of photos of dogs with grimy-looking or reddish ears. Yeast infections do frequently cause a characteristic light brown, waxy exudate inside the ear, but appearance alone isn’t reliable. Bacterial infections in the ear can look similar, or there may be multiple issues occurring at the same time.
Besides that gross, waxy debris in your dog’s ears, other signs that you may notice include:
Scratching or rubbing at the ears
Ears sensitive to touch
A distinct odor, often compared to corn chips
Red, inflamed ears
Head tilt
Neurological signs such as stumbling, circling, and falling over in severe cases
Time to See the Vet
The only way to be sure that your dog’s troubles are caused by yeast is to have your veterinarian do an ear cytology, which involves swabbing the exudate in the ear and examining it under a microscope. This allows the veterinarian to see what infectious agents are present and prescribe the right medication to treat that problem.
If your dog is up to date on her wellness exams, your veterinarian may allow you to drop off an ear swab without bringing your dog in for an appointment. However, if the symptoms are severe, return after treatment, or don’t improve at all, your dog will need a physical exam, so the veterinarian can look inside the ear canal and check out the ear drum. This can be an important step, because some ear medications like the long-acting Claro can cause deafness if applied in an ear with a ruptured ear drum.
Plastic crates offer a cave-like comfort for many dogs, and some, like the Ruff Land shown here, can double as crash-tested travel crates and regular crates. Credit: Cindy Foley
A safe dog crate is a sturdy crate that fits your individual dog: his size, his temperament, his training, his environment, and then your needs.
A safe, comfortable crate is big enough for your dog to walk into, sit in, stand in, and turn around. Start by measuring your dog’s standing height, including his ears, and his length, including his tail, then add 2 to 4 inches to both to find the proper size.
Four Main Types of Dog Crates
Plastic crates: These durable dog crates are made of strong plastic, usually with a swinging, wire door in front and often with a handle on top for moving the crate. Except for the door, plastic crates have smooth surfaces to minimize the chance of an injury. Plastic crates are often not well-ventilated, however. Look for one with holes at least on both long sides. They’re good for travel and easy to clean but bulky and awkward to move, especially if you have a large dog. They’re also not all that pretty.
Wire crates: Easily cleaned, unrestricted view, well-ventilated. You can purchase heavy-duty wire crates, if needed, but otherwise wire crates are great for all dogs, especially escape artists. Look a crate with two latches on the doors, especially on larger crates. Some wire crates come with a divider for housing more than one dog and/or more than one door for convenience. Wire crates can eventually rust and can become difficult to put together and then unfold, especially if it’s folded and moved around frequently. As the crate becomes worn, watch for stray pieces of wire that have come apart and could cause injury and/or escape.
Wire crates are difficult for a dog to escape from when properly put together, but you still need to be sure all of the dog—including the ear—fits comfortable. In addition, many dogs would prefer a cover over their wire crate. Credit: Cindy Foley
Soft-sided crates: These crates are not the best choice for determined escape artists or dogs who are not properly trained and don’t settle into a crate. It doesn’t take a lot of effort to chew through the canvas or nylon fabric or push through zipper enclosures. These crates can be difficult to clean but are lightweight and portable, as they easily come apart and fold nicely. Soft crates are only suited for dogs who are crate-trained. These crates often come with a top opening that can be used for little dogs. A few brands have more than one door.
Wooden furniture crates: Wood crates are suited for crate-trained dogs who won’t chew the wood. They are usually house-only crates as they are heavy and don’t easily fold for transportation. These crates can be difficult to clean and tend to be expensive.
Clearly, the plastic and wire crates are the most durable and the most escape-proof. If you’re just training your dog, these are the best choices.
Soft-sided crates are most often selected by competitors and trainers who who take their dogs places and are looking for lightweight, easy-to-fold crates for well crate-trained dogs.
There are also crash-tested travel crates like the Variocage, Impact Crates, SleepyPod (for small dogs), and Ruff Land Kennels that are made to endure a car crash. These come in metal and plastic materials, and many can be custom made to your car space and dog ventilation needs. Some can double as a house or competition crate, but these products tend to be heavy.
Crates Dogs Like
When choosing a crate, give some thought to what your dog likes. Some dogs prefer a wire crate with no covering so he can see everything going on around him. Others seem to feel like they’re on display and aren’t comfortable.
Most dogs like the cave-like feeling naturally offered by a plastic crate or soft-cover crate. Dogs who need a wire crate due to their Houdini-like abilities can get the same cave feeling by purchasing a crate cover or simply placing a cotton sheet or lightweight blanket or throw over the crate. Dogs who bark in wire crates are often quieted by the addition of a cover.
Any crate can have safety issues, depending on your dog. He can get a leg stuck in metal if the crate is not properly put together and sized to the dog; he can chew through wood; and he can pretty easily destroy a soft-sided crate.
Remember that a dog’s crate is a safe, temporary haven for him to eat, relax, or remain confined when necessary. A crate should not be a punishment area or a permanent prison.
All crates need a pad or thick towel on the floor for comfort. Chew-resistant crate beds are available, if you suspect your dog may be destructive. A stuffed Kong toy can keep your dog occupied. If your dog is left in his crate for any length of time, you must provide water as well.
While we believe all dogs should be crate-trained due to the possibility of emergencies, there are dogs that simply won’t relax in a crate. For these dogs, we recommend crate alternatives, as discussed in our article “Creative Confinement: Dog Crate Alternatives.”
Adorable, no? Actually, NO! This dog’s life is being endangered in several ways. She can be hit by debris on the road, be thrown out of the car in an accident (or even just when the car needs to swerve to avoid a road hazard), she might get excited about something she see and jump from the car to her death, or she can be seriously injured by the car’s airbag if it deploys in a crash. Photo by Francisco Umaña / EyeEm, Getty Images
Most of us love taking our dogs places. And this usually means taking them with us in our car, truck, or SUV. But improper car safety can turn an innocent trip into life-altering ride. Both human and canine passengers need to practice proper car safety. Emergency veterinarians are all too familiar with dogs that suffer injuries from improper car safety. This includes riding in the driver’s lap, riding with their head out the window, or riding without proper restraint inside the vehicle.
Airbags Can Kill Dogs: No Dogs On Laps
It is so tempting to put your small dog in your lap while you are driving. They are cute and they love to snuggle. And how much harm could come of having your six pound Maltese or Chihuahua ride in your lap?
If you are in an accident, your airbag is likely going to deploy. The airbag is meant to protect you in a crash. If your small dog is riding in your lap when the airbag deploys, the force of the airbag can significantly harm your small dog. Fractures and spinal cord trauma resulting in paralysis are common injuries in small dogs that have been impacted by an airbag.
Secure Your Dog With Safety Belts or Car Carriers
Car safety harnesses are built with a different design than walking harnesses. They are stronger and generally have wide, padded straps and a broad chest-plate, where the dog will take most of the impact if the car stops suddenly or is in an accident. They not only keep your dog safe in an accident, they keep him in one spot in the car, which helps prevent him from distracting you while driving. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Unrestrained dogs can also become projectiles in a car accident. Head trauma from being thrown into the windshield is common. Another common scenario seen by emergency veterinarians is small dogs launched out the driver’s side window like a catapult during an accident. This happens when the driver’s window is rolled down and the small dog is standing in the driver’s lap with their paws on the door. During an accident, the small dog can fly out the window and land on their head on the pavement below. This type of injury often results in traumatic brain injury or sudden death.
The safest way for a dog to ride in a vehicle is buckled into a dog car safety belt or harness or in a secured travel carrier designed for use in cars or planes. Read WDJ’s review of dog car safety harnesses from April 2021 here. Small dogs who are buckled into a safety harness may also ride in a car seat designed for dogs. WDJ has a review of small-dog car seats from the May 2021 issue here.
Prevent Injuries From Open, Unprotected Windows
Large dogs often ride in the back seat away from air bags but can still become injured due to an open window. Dogs who ride with their heads out the window are more prone to eye and/or ear injuries caused by flying debris. Another common injury occurs when unrestrained dogs jump out the window of a moving vehicle. These dogs can fracture a limb when they land on the pavement. Emergency veterinarians have also seen cases where an owner accidentally backed over their own dog after the dog jumped out the rear window!
Installing a dog car window screen or guard on each rear window of your vehicle can help protect your pooch when the windows are rolled down. Wire mesh panels made from welded steel that are custom designed to fit your vehicle’s rear windows are available from BreezeGuard. Screens made from polyester mesh fabric are available from The Skeeter Beater and from Luno. The screens from The Skeeter Beater attach to the window frame with sewn-in magnets. Luno’s screens fit over the top of your vehicle’s rear door frame like a glove. All of these screens and panels allow for normal operation of your vehicle’s windows when installed.
Accidents can happen when we least expect it. Don’t let improper car safety ruin your outing!
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When evaluating a trainer that you are thinking about hiring, it’s important for you to see him or her in action – preferably training several clients’ dogs (not just their own dog), and preferably when working with a dog who seems to be at the same level of training as your dog. Photo by Gajus, Getty Images
Have you considered sending your dog to stay with a trainer for some intensive training? This is commonly known as a “board and train” arrangement – but sometimes marketed as a dog training “boot camp” – and it comes with definite pros and cons. You dog may, in fact, learn a lot in a short amount of time. But you need to understand that you, too, will need to take some lessons so that you and your dog understand the behavior cues and criteria that will help him succeed in your home. And you need to look out for signs that not all is well with the trainer’s methods or business management.
What is Board and Train?
The term “board and train” refers to a type of training arrangement where your dog resides with the trainer or at the training facility for a set period. When done properly, the set up allows for a concentrated training experience with a skilled professional who has the time to set up frequent training sessions to help build the desired behaviors.
Potential Benefits of Board and Train for Your Dog
There are several important things to keep in mind when considering utilizing a board and train service. Ideally, you receive all the things in the “Pro” column:
Your dog receives consistent training. Many households find it difficult to dedicate consistent time to training. In a board and train setting, training the dog is number one on the to-do list, not an additional task one attempts to juggle amongst work and responsibilities at home. Consistency goes a long way toward jump-starting a dog’s learning and creating a solid foundation upon which you, as the owner, can continue to build.
Your dog learns quickly with a professional. When a pet owner works with her dog under the guidance of a professional trainer, often, both species – the human and the dog – are learning new skills at the same time! A human working to conquer her learning curve can create moments of confusion for the dog that don’t exist when a skilled professional trainer is at the end of the leash. Thankfully, dogs are forgiving and almost always eventually figure it out even when we humans might bumble our way through an exercise but minimizing those moments of confusion better supports the dog’s learning.
Your dog is able to make positive breakthroughs in a new environment. In the case of behavior issues, a change of scenery can be useful to help break patterns of behavior that might be heavily tied to the environment. Sometimes, the environment becomes such a strong trigger for an unwanted behavior, it’s difficult to create opportunities to reinforce a more desirable behavior within the environment. Ideally, during the dog’s time away, the trainer can help the dog develop alternate behaviors under similar circumstances so when the dog returns home, with the help of a little management and continue practice, it’s easier for the dog to be successful.
The Potential Cons of Board and Train Arrangements
Finding the right program can be challenging. Unfortunately, dog training is still an unregulated industry, and anyone can they are a dog trainer. If you don’t carefully do your homework when choosing a board and train trainer or facility, at best you’ll have spent money with little to nothing to show for it and, at worst, your dog may have been subjected to harsh training methods or unsafe conditions.
It’s spendy. Be prepared to spend a significant amount of money – typically in the thousands of dollars for a two-week program. You’re not only paying for the trainer’s time spent training your dog (which, remember, is frequent in this set-up), you’re also paying for time spent caring for your dog daily.
You’re not the one working with your dog. We know, we know, you’re thinking, “Duh. That’s the point.” But consider this: Training is a relationship-builder and the better relationship you have with your dog, the more successful the outcome. Dogs tend to work best for whomever spends the most time engaged in training. Just because your dog is responding wonderfully to the trainer doesn’t mean the behavior will naturally carry over to you when your dog gets home.
How to assess a board-and-training facility
When evaluating a trainer that you are thinking about hiring, it’s important for you to see him or her in action – preferably training several clients’ dogs (not just their own dog), and preferably when working with a dog who seems to be at the same level of training as your dog. Photo by Gajus, Getty Images
Here’s what to keep in mind when researching board and train options:
Get referrals from sources you trust. If you search online, you will find countless reports of cruelty, abuse, and neglect occurring at boarding and training facilities. Some people have found their dogs in terrible condition or have been unable to retrieve their dogs at all. Don’t rely on internet-based reviews; the stakes are too high. If you’re working with a trainer you’re comfortable with, ask if they offer board and train services or if they recommend anyone. Query friends and family to get honest, trustworthy references.
View the facility and watch some training in action. If the board and train takes place at a dog training facility, find out when you can visit to observe some training in action. Does the facility look clean? Does it have a noticeable “doggy” odor? Are dogs barking endlessly? As you observe the training, watch the dog’s body language. Does the dog appear comfortable with the trainer? If the trainer is working with a shy or fearful dog, does the trainer appear patient with the dog? If you’re working with a private trainer who offers board and train services out of his home, you may not be able to tour the home, but you should be able to observe the trainer in action as he teaches classes or private lessons.
Talk about training methods. Ask what training methods are used and what equipment will be used on your dog. Explicitly ask if aversive tools such as training collars (“choke chains”), pinch collars, or shock collars are used, even if the trainer says she uses positive-reinforcement training.
Be leery of guarantees and other claims that sound too good to be true. It’s a huge red flag if a board and train facility or private trainer states you can expect problem behaviors to be eliminated, or that your dog will be 100 percent reliable off-leash following the board and train program. Of course, you should expect to see progress – even significant progress depending on the issue – but, as we said, training a dog takes time, patience, and consistency, and if a trainer is claiming he can guarantee amazing results within the timeframe common for a board and train arrangement (typically two to four weeks), there’s a good chance they’re using punishment-based training collars in an attempt to quickly suppress unwanted behaviors.
Have clear expectations. Make sure the trainer understands what behaviors you want to prioritize during the board and train time. The trainer should also help you understand what to expect from the dog at the completion of the program. The time in board and train should end with a few private sessions where the trainer works with you to understand how to continue with the new behaviors at home.
Is board and train worth it?
If you have the financial resources, know you’re working with a professional you can trust and understand it’s not a quick fix and you’ll still need to invest some time and effort into transferring the behaviors from the trainer to yourself – and working to maintain the dog’s success – it can be a great way to jump-start your dog’s learning.
It can be especially effective with young puppies where ensuring consistency means your dog is better able to learn correct behaviors from the start versus learning unwanted behaviors you’ll need to fix later. As part of a board and train arrangement, the trainer can also help make sure your puppy gets out to safely experience the world during the critical socialization period, helping to create a confident dog.
As an alternative to board and train programs, consider working with a trusted trainer who can offer “day training.” Like board and train, a trainer works with your dog in your absence, either picking the dog up from your home or working with the dog on your property. As a trainer, I’ve successfully offered this service to many clients looking for a training boost when they themselves are unable to commit as much time to training as they’d like. Day training is much less expensive – typically the same cost as a private lesson with the trainer – and you aren’t without your canine friend!
Every pet owner I know is talking about it: the difficulty we are all experiencing in getting veterinary care – especially emergency care – for our dogs. Friends have driven hours to find an emergency clinic that is still operating at night or on weekends – and in some cases have spent six, eight, or even more than 10 hours waiting for their dogs to be seen in an emergency. Call to make a routine appointment and the first opening they have may be more than a month in the future.
This sobering reality has definitely made me more careful with my dogs than ever before. I don’t throw the ball as much for Woody, who puts all of his heart and soul into catching every ball, without particular regard for collision hazards or graceful landings. Knowing that I might not be able to find a vet to take him to if he sliced himself open running into something, or being unable to schedule a timely ACL repair if he were to blow a tendon, has definitely made me less inclined to encourage him to engage in the potentially injurious activity. I even stop him and my year-old dog, Boone, from chasing each other at high speeds around my property! It used to be fun to watch; now I just flinch every time they almost run into a tree or take a bad step as they leap over the little stream in our pasture.
I strongly suspect the difficulty and delay in obtaining prompt veterinary care is also partly to blame for what seems like record numbers of unwanted puppies and kittens flowing into animal shelters.
About a year ago, Mars Veterinary Health published some statistics that put some hard numbers to the experience many of us are having:
Nearly 41,000 additional veterinarians will be needed to meet the needs of companion animal healthcare by 2030.
Even with the new veterinary graduates expected over the next 10 years, a shortage of nearly 15,000 veterinarians will likely still exist by 2030.
It would take more than 30 years of graduates to meet the 10-year industry need for credentialed veterinary technicians.
If you haven’t seen your veterinarian for a while, be advised that it might take longer than usual. And when you do take your dog in for an appointment, be extra considerate of the veterinarian and staff time and expertise! They’re under extraordinary pressure these days.
When managing a puppy playdate, be prepared to intervene from time to time to reduce the intensity of the games. One great way to do this is to cheerfully call the puppies over to enjoy some treats for simple behaviors such as “sit” and “touch.” Then release the now-calmer, more settled puppies to play again; almost always, the games will be less impassioned and more fun. (But be ready to repeat this in five minutes if it’s a first playdate!)
Creating the right canine social circle for your puppy in the first few months of his life will pay incredible rewards. Your pup will be happier, much easier to be around, and primed to be the kind of adult dog who gets along with other dogs.
Puppies thrive when they can interact with their own kind — like-minded individuals who understand that it makes sense to sniff each others’ privates or play a bit of bitey-face. After all, we’ve taken them from their wrestling, chasing, jumping littermates and plunked them down on Planet Human. That transition is much easier if they have some fellow travelers.
Be careful, though, because for the youngest of puppies, interacting with other dogs does carry risk. In the key “socialization window” before the age of four months – during which it is critically important a puppy experiences new things in a way that feels positive – the distemper/parvo vaccination series is not yet complete. That’s a challenge, because being around a sick dog at that point could mean catching a life-threatening disease
As scary as that sounds, making nuanced choices to avoid disease is actually the easy part of getting dog-to-dog socialization right. (See “Balancing Dual Threats: Protecting puppies against viral disease and behavioral problems,” WDJ October 2022.) The trickier truth to navigate is that perfectly healthy dogs can pose a risk to puppies, too. They might hurt the pups physically, or they may simply scare them with their exuberance, rough play, or vocalizations. That psychological impact can be particularly damaging during the sponge-like sensitive period before four months of age.
If you’re thinking it would be much easier to just wait until later when the puppy is fully vaccinated and not so easily imprinted upon . . . that’s a mistake! Once the socialization window closes, biology will be working to tell a puppy that if they haven’t experienced something yet, it could be a threat. That’s why a pup who’s sheltered away from other dogs until emerging fully vaccinated at five months can be forever unable to feel truly comfortable around dogs.
So, yes, it takes effort to do it right, but it’s worth it. Plus, doggy interactions are actually a very fun part of socializing a puppy. Just get yourself up to speed on how to plan a safe and positive experience, and you’re on your way to seeing a whole new side of your pup.
The Benefits of a Puppy Playdate
Gentle adult dogs who love to play with puppies – what we like to call “nanny dogs” – are worth their weight in gold. For a puppy, half an hour with one of these incredible teachers can be transformative. Suddenly, it’s clear to the puppy that 1) bigger dogs are nothing to be scared of, and 2) there are some good-manners rules to canine play.
If you have a puppy who is super mouthy, please put “find a great puppy playmate” at the top of your to-do list. If you – or your young kids – are having trouble landing on a pain-free way to interact with your baby alligator, the puppy playdate can be a godsend.
A little half-hour romp with the neighbor’s puppy can do four giant things:
Give your puppy a natural outlet for those mouthy impulses
Truly tire her out, which results in a puppy who’s no longer all teeth
Build your puppy’s doggy communication skills
Teach the very important “bite inhibition” that will make her an adult dog who’s safer to be around
Safe Playmates, Good Set-Ups
To find the right playmate, think safety first. Look for well-informed humans who are responsible, and who keep their not-fully-vaccinated-yet puppy away from unknown dogs and the places they frequent (like dog parks). Have a chat about how crucial it is to cancel any playdate if a puppy isn’t in tip-top shape that day.
Once you have a puppy playdate scheduled, think about the location. You want to set things up so that each puppy feels safe, and has the ability to choose whether to interact or not throughout the whole playdate. The environment can help a great deal with this, so arrange for your yard or room to have hiding places and obstacles that slow play and offer a breather (benches, bushes, couches or low tables to go over and under). If, instead, you offer just an empty square, it will usually end up with one puppy feeling cornered and scared, which is the opposite of what we’re trying to accomplish.
When and How to Intervene
Give your young puppy an appropriate outlet for that toothy play – an adored game on Planet Dog! – and you’ll find that afterward she is much less mouthy with you or your kids. An added bonus to that playdate: It makes your pup happy, tires her out, and builds her canine communication skills.
Even with a great set-up, you’ll need to intervene at times. The key is knowing when and how. Especially in the beginning of the playdate, you may see some behavior that means the pups need some help figuring out how to play well together: maybe one pup is repeatedly standing stiffly over another, or there’s some wrestling that turns into a very vocal, snappy skirmish. Be careful not to add to the puppies’ uncertainty by hovering nervously and offering negative commentary. The dreaded “Be niiiiice… be niiiiice” delivered in a weirdly threatening tone will just freak the dogs out. They have no idea what you mean, and only know that you are suddenly very nervous, which they will associate with this other puppy.
Instead, use your positive vibe to make things better. Remember, these guys are basically very distractible toddlers. Jump in with a cheery “Chase me, puppies! Look at this long rope!” Call them over for a chance to sit for a piece of yummy cheese, and “touch” for a bite of hot dog. Clap your hands and encourage them to join you on a little perimeter hike as you investigate the area together. These side-by-side activities help to decrease the intensity between them, so that when they engage again things are calmer. Encouraging them to play tug with a long toy – instead of constantly using those teeth on each other – can also help things stay in the positive category.
Not sure how things are going? Look for reciprocal play. It’s ideal if pups are trading off who is chasing, who’s on top, who has the ball. If it’s not looking very balanced, use the consent test. Calmly separate the pups, and see if the one you weren’t sure about seeks out play again. If they both pull wildly to be together again, then … game on! If not, then it’s time to try something else – maybe a walk together on leashes.
If this sounds like a lot of work . . . you’re right! But it gets much, much better. It’s typical to need a lot of human intervention on Playdate #1 between two pups, and almost none on Playdate #4. That’s because when you do it right, the puppies build their friendship, communication skills, play repertoire, and confidence. Even better: Once they do that with one friend, they are likely to move along that path much more quickly with the next.
Note that many dog training facilities now offer puppy play sessions. This could be great – but do your homework. What precautions do they take about health? Ask if you can watch a session beforehand. Are they intervening well to promote better play? I have had several clients come to me convinced their puppy is a social misfit based on commentary from the “trainer” at a group session. Most of the time, that human was tasked with an impossible situation, and didn’t have the ability to create a good scenario for all of the puppies. With an appropriate set-up, those very same pups usually do beautifully.
As important as peer-puppy friends are, that’s just the beginning of your dog-to-dog socialization project. Your puppy will benefit tremendously from exposure to adult dogs, too. Even just seeing dogs walking on the other side of the street is great for your puppy. When your pup notices, narrate for him: “Hey, see that dog? I see a dog.” You can build a positive association with the sight of those dogs by giving him a treat every time. And then . . . just move along.
Please don’t let your pup go right up and greet a stranger’s dog. You just don’t know how that’s going to go. Many adult dogs feel uncomfortable around puppy energy, which is perfectly reasonable since it typically features “rude” jumping, climbing, and mouthing. Bad things can happen if the wrong dog is taken aback by your puppy.
On the other hand, some of those stranger’s dogs may be happily excited about your puppy. That’s not really much better! Their fast movement or aroused barking may terrify your pup. So choose to be safe, and pass by unknown dogs with a cheery attitude, keeping your distance. Remember, you don’t know if the stranger’s dog is vaccinated, or if the stranger’s reports that her dog “loves puppies” is accurate. Sure, it might go okay. But if it doesn’t, you may end up with a puppy who is now forever scared of other dogs.
Walks with Neighbor Dogs
A much better prospect for interaction is the calm dog who belongs to your nice, responsible, pet-vaccinating neighbors. Maybe nobody’s sure how that dog might feel about a puppy, but it’s worth finding out.
A great way to get those two dogs used to each other is to take a joint walk, while each owner is loaded with treats to keep things moving forward. Keep some distance between the dogs and let them size each other up as they move along on an adventure. After a bit, if the body language from the adult dog is all good (loose and waggy) and the puppy is leaning in, you can allow closer contact. (But never, ever, allow leashes to be tangled, which can make a dog feel trapped, which can result in very bad things.)
Another possibility for a first introduction is to use a fence, a gate or a pen to keep the puppy safe as the two dogs sniff each other. Again, use a stream of treats on both sides to lessen the intensity of the interaction between them at first. Ask for sits and touches as they get used to being around each other.
Even if you never get to the point of feeling comfortable allowing free play between that neighbor dog and your puppy, this can be a really helpful relationship. A wonderful role an older dog can play is to get a young puppy going on a walk. Often younger puppies don’t want to leave their property, but if you put a nice old lab in front of them, they’ll suddenly trot along. (But don’t let the puppy harass the older dog; pay attention to the body language of both, and keep some distance when needed.)
The Wonderful Nanny Dog
As tolerant as an adult dog may appear to be with pups, make sure she always has a way to escape from their constant attention. No one brings their best self to a game with toddlers when they are exhausted!
If you’re lucky, somewhere in your neighborhood or your social circle there is a nanny dog. This is the adult dog who is eager to hang out with puppies, happy to patiently absorb the jumpy/mouthy chaos that is an excited three-month-old. These dogs can gently teach a pup to understand boundaries – like “that’s too hard,” or “I’m done now” – that will make that pup forever safer with other dogs. Nanny dogs are absolute gold. If you have access to one, make the most of it, and schedule regular get-togethers.
Mind you, that doesn’t mean you should EVER trap an older dog – even a perfect one – with a puppy in the hopes that they’ll “teach them some manners.” The type of teaching we hope for can only happen when the older dog is voluntarily choosing to be around the puppy. Even a nanny dog sometimes needs a break, so be sure to give him the ability to hop over a low bench, or up on a high sofa, to escape the little wild thing. Also, don’t hamper his ability to teach by disciplining the growl (“be niiiiiice”) because the growl is simply communication. The older dog needs to be able to say “nope” or it’s just not fair to pair him with a rude puppy. When I’m supervising — as one should always be in this situation — I back up my nanny dog’s growl by quietly, calmly saying, “That’s right, Georgie, good job.” Then I might step in and help move things in a good direction.
(Special note: whenever two dogs are together, in any scenario, be aware of any tendency to resource guard. Remove special items, prized toys, etc.)
Set Expectations About Interactions
If you happen to live in a wonderfully friendly neighborhood, where everybody knows each other and there are a ton of lovely dogs who always say hello on walks . . . I’m so sorry. While that’s a fantastic vibe for a street, it creates an expectation in your puppy that it’s normal to say hello to every single dog she sees out on a walk. It may be darling to see your 11-week-old pulling to greet her “friends,” but later on, that’s likely to be a problem. Six months later, as you walk down Main Street, your 70-lb adolescent is pulling madly toward every dog she sees, and barking in surprised frustration when she isn’t allowed to gallop over to say hello.
To combat that, my favorite approach is to teach a puppy that – unless she hears a special cue like “Go say hello” – leashed dogs are just things we pass calmly while getting a treat. So, if I lived in that super-friendly neighborhood, I’d control the early exposure. I’d invite those great neighbor dogs for playdates and long walks together – but (particularly in the beginning) I’d teach walking past them nicely when we encounter them randomly on walks.
Other dogs can play an incredibly important role in your puppy’s early development. They can make a puppy feel less lonely here on Planet Human, they can be a fun and easy way to burn off energy, and they can model and teach behavior that’ll make your puppy’s life here happier and safer. For sure it takes time and effort to bring those dogs safely into your puppy’s orbit, but the payoff is enormous for both of you.
This dog is at a healthy weight. On the Purina Body Condition Score, he is a 5 out of 9. You can see the waist at the end of his ribcage and the sleek appearance. Credit: Photo courtesy Dr. Eileen Fatcheric
Overweight dogs suffer needlessly. They show symptoms like lethargy, difficulty rising, lameness, heavy breathing, exercise intolerance, and disinterest in playing. If the dogs were not overweight, it’s unlikely these things would plague them. And it’s all our fault: The brutal truth is that domestic dogs rarely eat anything we don’t give them.
A simple way to tell if your dog is overweight is to feel for his ribs. As easy as it would be to have a chart for overweight dogs, like the human bone mass index (BMI) weight chart doctors use, we’re just not there yet. There are too many variables, and you can’t just go by numbers. One Labrador Retriever who weighs 60 lbs. might be overweight, while another Lab at 60 lbs. might be too thin. What matters is how the dog looks and how much fat you can feel over the ribs.
This dog’s parents are working hard on getting his weight under control, with veterinary supervision and regular weigh-ins. On the Purina Body Condition Score, this dog is an 8.5 out of 9. It can be difficult to notice a gradual weight gain when you see your dog every day. That’s why placing your hands on him and feeling for his ribcage is so helpful. Credit: Photo courtesy Dr. Eileen Fatcheric
However, the Purina Body Condition Score System is a pretty good substitute for a canine BMI overweight chart. It gives drawings of canine body shapes and explains why the image shows a thin, fit, or overweight dog. It’s extremely useful.
In a nutshell, if you look at your dog from the side, he should be deeper in the chest and tucked up in the abdomen (like a racehorse). When viewed from the top, he should be wider in the chest and narrower through the loin, so he has a waist. As dogs get fatter, they develop a straight silhouette both when viewed from the side and when viewed from above.
You shouldn’t be able to see your dog’s ribs—that would indicate the dog is underweight—but you do want to be able to feel the ribs. When you run your hands over your dog’s ribs, you should be able to easily feel the bump-bump-bump of the ribs. If you can’t feel them, he’s too fat. When you pinch the skin over the ribs, it should just feel like skin between your fingers with a thin layer of fat in between.
If you now recognize that your dog is overweight, it’s time to do something about it. Weight loss in dogs boils down to decreasing calories, increasing exercise, and human self-discipline, as in resisting the urge to over feed him, even extra treats.
I tell my clients to take a hard, honest look at snacks and treats. Eliminate snacks and treats. For most dogs, I find that decreasing your dog’s meal portions by 25% is a simple, safe, effective approach to weight loss. If you’re training your dog and need treats for rewards, take some of the kibble he would get at mealtime and use that for treats.
The most scientific method is to figure out how many calories your dog needs and how many calories are in the food he’s getting (including treats), and then determine the calories your dog needs and adjust his food. Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns explains how to do that in “How To Help Your Dog Lose Weight.”
Alternatively, you can talk to your veterinarian about switching to a prescription weight-management food, with recommendations for how much to feed. There are some good low-fat dog foods that enhance fitness, but there are also bad ones, so it’s wise to discuss your choice with your veterinarian. You can go to our searchable database to whittle down your choices.
Your reward for all this hard work is a happy, healthy, energetic dog who looks forward to your walks and playtime!
If you’re in an elevator with your dog, it’s good etiquette to step to one side and keep your dog on a short leash, making ample room for other passengers. (Also, we should note, we really don’t approve of retractable leashes, especially in urban settings.)
Photo by Aleksandr Zotov, Getty Images
How we choose to live with dogs in our own homes is our business. But when we step out the front door with our dogs, we have a social responsibility to make sure our love of dogs doesn’t interfere with other people’s ability to safely and comfortably navigate their day. This is where practicing good dog-owner etiquette is important.
One etiquette item that recently came to our attention is dogs in elevators. This is most commonly an issue in multi-level, apartment-style housing, but even if you live in a single-family dwelling, if you travel with your dog, you’ll likely encounter elevators in hotels and parking structures.
Tips for navigating elevators with your dog:
Pick her up. If your dog is small enough, simply pick her up and hold her during the ascent or descent. This ensures she won’t accidentally get jostled or stepped on and if you’re riding with someone who is uncomfortable around dogs, can assuage their concern. If your small dog is worried about crossing the threshold, pick her up before you step onto the elevator to prevent hesitation that could become dangerous.
Shorten the leash. Make it impossible for your dog to bound ahead of you onto the elevator or wander to the opposite corner in search of a new human friend. If all parties are agreeable to the interaction, invite your dog to, “Go say ‘Hi’” once you’ve exited the elevator. A shorter also leash helps ensure you and your dog enter the elevator together, mitigating the potential danger of your dog being left behind outside a closed elevator door. (It happens!) And, please, no retractable leashes on or around elevators!
Give your dog direction. Enter the elevator, step to your preferred area and give your dog something to do, like, “Sit, stay,” or “Wait.” Reinforce appropriately with calm praise, petting and, even a treat – especially if you don’t often experience elevators.
Manage your dog with food. If your dog struggles to comply with your request to “sit” and “stay,” an easier option might be to simply keep your dog in one position (out of the personal space of others) by using a food magnet on his nose. Keep your dog’s attention on you with a handful of food, allowing a piece to escape from your hand every few seconds.
You may wish to train for better elevator behavior, but an elevator full of people is not where your best training will take place. Some situations are best served with management until we can create a better picture for effective training.
Body-block your dog. Another tip to help your dog “mind his business” on the elevator is to step to a corner with your dog and position your body to block his access to others in the space. I’ll often pair this with a light-hearted monologue where I say something to my dog like, “Yes, I know you want to go visit that person, but not everyone wants to say, ‘Hi’ to you today!” I never know for sure, but my hope is it helps others realize I have control of the situation and we’re no threat.
Your dog’s safety is your responsibility
However you decide to handle elevator encounters, remember it’s your responsibility to make sure your dog is not a nuisance to others. A string of apologies as your dog excitedly jumps on your Wall St. neighbor as he departs for his day on the trading floor doesn’t count for much when he now must rid his suit of dog hair.
People are more likely to remember their unpleasant encounters with dogs – be it on an elevator or the patio of a restaurant. As dog lovers, our best defense against the proliferation of “no dogs” rules is by striving to be the most socially conscious dog owners we can be so the naysayers don’t have anything to complain about!
Elevator Safety for Dogs
The two biggest dangers to dogs posed by elevators are the gap between the floor of the building and the floor of the elevator, and getting left on one side of the closing elevator door with their handler on the other. Stepping in and out of the elevator with your dog calls for the utmost in situational awareness! To prevent potential harm to your dog as you negotiate this danger zone, employ the following safety tips:
Practice getting in and out of the elevator when there is no other elevator traffic to make sure your dog feels comfortable stepping across the gap and entering the elevator. A dog who balks and has to be pulled inside or scrambles across the gap is at greater risk of having a paw slip into the gap or getting separated.
Pay close attention to your dog at all times in or near elevators. It may feel strange to fail to make eye contact with one of your fellow passengers as you verbally greet them, but you need to keep your eyes on your dog, making sure he’s comfortable throughout his ride.
Many pet gates or baby gates can be installed in your doorway, preventing your dogs from dashing out when the door is opened. If your dog is prone to or intent on slipping out the door, installing a second line of defense such as this is important. Photo by Aleksandr Zotov, Getty Images
Has this ever happened to you? You open the door to retrieve your latest Amazon package and before you know it, your dog slips between your legs and takes off on a neighborhood joy ride. Ruh-roh!
Trainers call this “door darting,” and it’s not only frustrating, it can also be unsafe for your dog, especially if his recall isn’t reliable. It’s an impulse control issue that can be hugely self-rewarding for your dog, so it’s important to employ effective management while you work on teaching door manners.
How to Stop a Dog From Running Out the Door
“Management” means things you do to set up the dog’s environment in a way that will manage his behavior; it doesn’t involve teaching him anything, just preventing the thing that you don’t want to happen from happening!
“Feeding the Chickens.” As you approach the door, toss a small handful of kibble 8-10 feet from the door, and encourage your dog to find it. Finding kibble on the floor is incompatible with rushing the front door, and it gives humans a chance to enter or exit. Play this game often to teach your dog to anticipate good things away from the door.
Baby gate in the doorway. A pressure-mounted or hardware-installed baby gate in the doorway is an effective barrier to prevent door darting. In many doorways, a gate will fit even with a screen door, and will still allow the main door to close. A 24” gate is short enough for most adults to step over, making it realistic to always keep this management strategy in place in homes with accomplished door darters.
Exercise pen “catch basin” (aka “airlock”). Similar to using a baby gate in the doorway, an x-pen makes a great emergency corral just outside of the door. If the dog manages to slip past you, he’s safely contained on the porch. Or, set it up inside your door, so you can close it behind you before opening the door.
Tether station. Attach a spare leash to a heavy piece of furniture near the main entryway to your home and make it a habit to quickly tether him before opening the door. A sticky note on the door is a great reminder for everyone in the family.
Useful trained behaviors
While managing the behavior daily, it’s also wise to train specific behaviors to help your dog succeed in the absence of management. A reliable “stay,” “go to your mat” and recall behavior work together well to help your dog learn to control himself around the excitement of the open door.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
