Poodles and other breeds whose coat will continue growing until it’s cut are generally said to have hair, not fur. Photo by Volha Maksimava, Getty Images
Hair and fur both consist of keratin, which is the same structural protein that creates skin and nails. The scientific term for the wooly or hairy covering of mammals is pelage, and science makes no distinction between hair and fur – both are simply pelage.
More detailed descriptions are meaningful to groomers, breeders, and dog show judges. Terms like “hair” and “fur” are widely accepted.
The hairs in undetermined length (UDL) coats grow until they break or are cut. In his book, Happy Dog (New American Library, 2009) celebrity dog groomer Billy Rafferty helped popularize UDL breeds as “hair dogs.” Examples include Afghan Hounds, Cairn Terriers, Maltese, Irish Terriers, and Poodles.
Pre-determined length (PDL) coats grow to a certain length and stop. Rafferty calls PDL breeds “fur dogs,” and they include Beagles, Boxers, Jack Russel Terriers, Labrador Retrievers, Rottweilers, and Weimaraners.
His third category, “multi-length fur breeds,” describes dogs with both UDL and PDL traits. Examples include Alaskan Malamutes, Border Collies, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Golden Retriever, Newfoundlands, and Great Pyrenees.
Hair is usually described as longer, finer, often wavy or curly, and has a longer growth cycle, while fur is described as shorter, denser, and has a shorter growth cycle, resulting in more frequent shedding. Your groomer can describe your dog’s coat in detail and explain which grooming products and methods will work best for its length, growth rate, texture, and shape.
For example, hair dogs like Poodles require monthly or bimonthly haircuts, while short-haired fur dogs like Labrador Retrievers don’t need much more than frequent brushing and occasional baths.
Hair dogs may produce less dander and shed less than fur dogs but hair coats can mat and tangle more, requiring conditioning and detangling, while many fur dogs benefit from de-shedding treatments.
If you let your dog outside with a favorite bone or toy, chances are pretty good he’s going to bury it. And, if you think your dog digs in dirt for no reason, think again. A dog’s incredible ability to smell things causes him to dig for buried treasure.
Credit: PeopleImages | Getty Images
The answer to the often-asked question of why do dogs bury bones in the ground is simple: Instinct tells them to bury things they consider valuable, but can’t consume right now, to protect their stash from their packmates, competitors, or other animals.
So, why does your dog hide bones or toys in the house? Probably because he feels he must hide them from another dog (or two, or three), but he can’t get outside to do it.
Burying is a natural behavior going back millennia, and it’s only a problem if it causes too much damage or becomes compulsive. If digging is compulsive with your dog, you’ll need the help of a professional trainer or a veterinarian to find and fix the issue’s cause.
Certain breeds are more prone to digging than others. Terriers, Dachshunds, Beagles, Bassets, and Miniature Schnauzers were all bred to hunt ground-dwelling varmints, so digging is pretty much part of their DNA.
It’s thought that rescue dogs tend to bury bones and food because often they were once starving and learned to cache food. Digging is also a self-soothing behavior if a dog is anxious, often another issue with rescue dogs.
But it’s generally not healthy for dogs to eat bones and flesh that’s been buried, because the decomposition can cause diarrhea, vomiting, or salmonella.
If your dog is digging, or burying toys, in your bed it probably has to do with another instinct, though. It’s his instinct to feel warm and safe where he lies down that makes him dig in your bed.
This was the litter of puppies being co-fostered by my friend Leonora and me in March 2020. Buster is the white puppy lying down in the middle. Photo by Nancy Kerns
As I write this, I am visualizing strength and a return to health for Buster, a dog who just turned three years old, and whom I met for the first time when he was about five weeks old. He was one of a litter of nine puppies that my friend Leonora and I co-fostered for our local shelter at the very outset of the COVID pandemic in early 2020. Getting all the pups adoptive homes was made more complicated by the fact that the shelter, like most others, closed its doors to the public at that time, and instead, required that potential adopters make appointments to come and meet specific puppies that they were interested in. (Normally, when the shelter has a litter of puppies for adoption, people can take the whole bunch into the “get acquainted” room at the shelter to try to decide which one they have an affinity for – or which one likes them best!) This slowed the adoptions – which meant that Leonora and I had puppies staying with us for longer than usual – which meant that we couldn’t help but get more and more attached to the puppies who took the longest to get adopted.
Leonora fell particularly hard for Buster. When we met the couple who ultimately adopted him, we were happy that he had found such a good home, even though Leonora was sad to see him go; she had been this close to keeping him herself. He was a particularly sweet, funny, and confident pup with adorable markings on his face. We later discovered that his new owners enrolled him in puppy kindergarten classes (and later, doggie daycare) at The Canine Connection, the premium boarding, daycare, and training facility in our area. Hurray! We’d see his photo pop up in The Canine Connection’s photo albums from time to time; it was always a thrill to see how big and handsome he had become.
When Buster was about 18 months old, I ended up meeting his owners as they were having dinner in a restaurant in town where my sister was a cook. Not long after that, we got together with all of our dogs and I showed them a couple of my favorite trails in the Oroville Wildlife Area where I walk with my dogs. We became friends on Facebook and “liked” each other’s dog photos.
A local danger?
About two weeks ago, I aw a heart-stopping post on Facebook by one of Buster’s owners. Megan wrote, “It has been one helluva week and one that I don’t want to ever repeat.” She went on to say that Buster had vomited a number of times at daycare. She took him to the vet the next day and the vet felt some masses in his abdomen. He ended up undergoing emergency surgery to remove the suspected blockage, but things went from bad to worse.
The vet found a tumor, but also lots of bowel in very bad shape, including some perforations. The vet removed some of the bowel, but did not remove the tumor, which had grown all around the bowel; she had suspicions about the tumor that proved correct: it was loaded with an organism called Pythium insidiosum. This is an oomycete (pronounced oh-uh-MY-seat) – an organism that looks and acts like a fungus but is more closely related to algae. It’s found in stagnant water, and can cause the growth of tumors if ingested. The problem is, unless every bit of the tumor and the oomycetes is removed, the organism can quickly recur. The vet did her best to patch Buster back together again, and started him on a course of strong anti-fungal drugs that stand the best chance of knocking the P. insidiosum back.
Buster has been a joy to his owners, and at age 3, was just settling into happy adulthood, after being a bit of a handful in adolescence. His owners had invested a ton into his training, comfort (he has more toys and outfits than all my dogs put together), and care. He’s at a heart-breakingly young age for such a devastating diagnosis. Photo courtesy Megan Rawie.
As I write this, things are not looking promising for Buster. His owners and veterinarian are trying desperately to get him into the veterinary clinic at the University of California, Davis, vet school, hoping that they could perform the complicated surgery to remove the Pythium-infested tumor – and hoping the anti-fungal drugs can knock out the Pythium. But it’s a long shot; “pythiosis” (as an infection with this organism is called) has a notoriously poor survival rate in dogs when it’s as advanced as Buster’s case is.
I was (and am) aghast at Buster’s diagnosis. I had never heard of pythiosis before – and when I looked it up, everything I read said it was most common in the states that border the Gulf of Mexico, where it is known colloquially as “swamp cancer.” But the more I researched the topic, the more reports I found of cases in dogs within an hour’s drive of where I live – and Buster’s vet is one of my vets! She suspected pythiosis before a biopsy came back because she recognized the appearance of his intestinal tumor; she had previously seen a case like his a few years ago.
If Buster was exposed to this organism locally – well, shoot, his owners take him to some of the same places where I take my dogs for walks at least once a week. Is this horrible organism in our local wetlands now?
I asked Jennifer Bailey, one of our veterinary contributors, to write an article about pythiosis for WDJ; she had never heard of pythiosis before, either, but she knocked out an article in record time and we posted it immediately. There is some speculation that this organism is expanding its range due to climate change, but since the treatment for this infection is most successful the faster it is recognized and treated, I wanted to spread the word about it as quickly as possible. And while none of my dogs has any sign of an infection, I’m going to look into getting titer tests for the two younger dogs, who have been walking in the same wetlands as Buster.
If you take your dog anywhere that there is stagnant water – near wetlands, ponds, or swamps – please read Dr. Bailey’s article on pythiosis, so you can recognize any early signs of an infection. It’s a particular concern in duck dogs whose owners hunt in flooded rice fields. There may be something in the agricultural practices of rice-growing that is favorable to the organism’s growth; a form that attacks the skin, causing non-healing sores, affects many humans who work in rice fields in places with a tropical, subtropical, or temperate climate such as Thailand and Malyasia.
Many dogs have lots of energy – perhaps more than their owners wished for – and express this with exuberance. But very few dogs are genuinely hyperactive. Make sure your dog gets enough exercise, physical and mental, and give her frequent opportunities to practice self-control exercises. Photo by Andrew Badger / EyeEm, Getty Images
I can empathize with canine caretakers who live with high-energy dogs, whether puppies, adolescents, or adults (yes, they come in all ages). Last week, a client brought me Abby, her 14-week-old Belgian Shepherd with concerns about high-energy behavior and mouthing. The only time Abby settled during the entire session was for about five minutes when she was chewing on a cow ear. Had it not been for my assistant who kept her busy with toys, this adorable but energetic canine child would have been launching herself at me and spearing me with her needle-sharp baby teeth for two hours.
High-Energy, Hyper, or ADHD?
High energy dog antics are often mistaken for symptoms of canine hyperactivity/ADHD. While this pathological condition does exist, it’s rare, and isn’t the same as high-energy. Hyperactivity, or “hyperkinesis,” can be defined as “displaying frenetic activity, abnormally short attention spans, and high impulsiveness.” If you think your dog really has canine ADHD, seek the assistance of a veterinary behaviorist to determine appropriate diagnosis, treatment and medication. (For a more in-depth article about this, see “Hyper Hounds: Think Your Dog Has ADHD?” in the October 2003 issue.)
Dealing With High-Energy Dogs
I know our very active baby Belgian didn’t have ADHD because she could stay focused and engaged for a reasonable time, and demonstrated an appropriate degree of impulse control for a high-energy puppy. At the end of our session, I suggested the following:
Canine playmates. Find well-matched playmates (puppies or adults) to defray some of Abby’s energy and teach her social skills (including appropriate use of her mouth.)
Good manners training. Continue a program of training basic good manners with a qualified force-free trainer.
Mouthing/nipping management. Teaching your dog to go to and relax on her mat is helpful. (See “Mat Training Tips,” January 2020, to learn how.) Remote-controlled treat-dispensing tools such as the PupPod (see “Gear of the Year,” January 2023) and/or a Pet Tutor (see “Gear of the Year,” January 2016) can be used to easily move her away from you when she’s being mouthy. You can also teach her the “Walk Away” exercise to move her away from other people. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” September 2018.)
Increase exercise. Being careful not to overdo impact on puppy joints, increase your dog’s aerobic exercise – running in the back yard, chasing toys, playing tug, etc. – to include several 20- to 30-minute sessions of active exercise per day. (See “Ways to Calm Down Your High-Energy Dog,” September 2017.
Teach your dog to do scent work. Using their noses (and brains) is excellent for a dog’s mental and physical enrichment. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Play Nose Games,” September 2019.)
Play cognition games with your dog. Cognition games – such as object, shape, or color discrimination – are also terrific for mental and physical enrichment that will help focus and tire your dog. (See “Are Canines Cognitive,” October 2017.)
Practice impulse control. Behaviors that strengthen a dog’s ability to control her own behavior, such as Wait, Leave It, and Go to Your Mat, are invaluable. (See “Control Yourself! Dog Impulse Control Training,” November 2021.)
Use management tools such as an exercise pen or crate. Don’t be afraid to use a crate or exercise pen as an option to manage your dog’s behavior so you can give yourself a break from having to constantly monitor her energy and activity. Help her be comfortable with this arrangement by giving her a long-lasting chew object or frozen, food-filled toy to enjoy. (See “Creative Confinement: Dog Crate Alternatives,” March 2022.)
You Can Do It!
The level of energy a dog like Abby has can be daunting, but don’t give up! Find activities that your dog loves, give her plenty of appropriate enrichment outlets for her mental and physical energy, help her learn how to control her behavior, and the two of you can have a long and active life together.
Buster is a 3-year-old dog who lives in Oroville, California. He started vomiting one day recently at his doggie daycare, and was taken to his vet the next day. The veterinarian felt a mass in his intestines, and, having seen one other case of pythiosis dog before, biopsied the mass. The sample came back as loaded with Pythium insidiosum. Photo courtesy Megan Rawie.
Pythiosis is a rare but deadly disease in dogs, humans, horses, and other mammals. In dogs, it is characterized by either non-healing sores on the skin, or the rapid growth of lesions in the stomach and intestine – masses that quickly obstruct the digestive tract.
This illness was originally described by British veterinarians studying horses with skin lesions in India in 1884. It is endemic to tropical and subtropical regions of the world, including Thailand, India, Brazil, and the U.S. states that border the Gulf of Mexico. However, in the past 20 years, it has increased its range into atypical areas, including northern California and Wisconsin. Pythiosis case reports have increased in the past decade.
Cause of pythiosis
Pythiosis is caused by the oomycete Pythium insidiosum. Oomycetes (pronounced oh-uh-MY-seats) are organisms that act and look like a fungus but are more closely related to algae. They are often referred to as “water molds.” P. insidiosum needs water to complete its life cycle. It is typically found in stagnant water, such as that found in ponds, swamps, and bayous, but can also be found in moist soil. P. insidiosum is attracted to grasses and other aquatic vegetation, human and horse hair, and the skin of mammals.
Finding this organism in ponds, swamps, and bayous makes sense when we think about the typical tropical and subtropical geographic distribution of pythiosis. It is not entirely understood why we are now diagnosing pythiosis in animals living in arid or colder regions of the country and that have no travel history outside of their home area. There is some speculation that there may be a connection between agricultural irrigation practices in these regions and exposure to P. insidiosum. Some experts speculate that global warming is helping to expand its range.
Any breed of dog may develop pythiosis. Most dogs that develop pythiosis are young (less than 3 years old) and tend to be hunting or sporting breed dogs that spend time in water or marshy areas. A higher prevalence of the disease among German Shepherds has been documented in the U.S. It is not known why German Shepherds are overrepresented.
According to pythiosis.com, a website dedicated to informing dog owners about this disease, most dogs are naturally resistant to P. insidiosum. “Dogs who become infected with the pathogen are unable to fight the disease due to a weakened immune system. This may be due to genetic factors or injuries which allow the pathogen access.”
Symptoms of pythiosis in dogs
There are two forms of pythiosis that are known to develop in dogs: the cutaneous form and the gastrointestinal form. Dogs can contract the cutaneous form when a wound on their skin becomes exposed to the oomycete. Oomycetes cannot invade intact skin. The gastrointestinal form is contracted when dogs swallow water or eat aquatic vegetation contaminated with oomycetes.
In the cutaneous form of the disease, a dog will have a non-healing wound that does not respond to antibiotics. The wound will often grow in size and may develop ulcers that drain pus. Initially, it can look similar to an acral lick granuloma, but tissue death (necrosis) follows, with the affected skin turning black.
Until recently, Buster has enjoyed flawless good health and energy. Adopted as a 10-week old puppy from a local shelter, he has been a joy to his owners, amusing them endlessly with his playful antics. Seemingly overnight, he is now fighting for his life. He is currently scheduled for surgery to remove the masses in his intestines and being treated with powerful antifungal drugs. Photo courtesy Megan Rawie.
In the gastrointestinal form of pythiosis, a dog may exhibit vomiting or diarrhea early in the disease process. Vomiting may occur if the stomach or small intestine are affected. Diarrhea may occur if the colon is affected. The diarrhea may progress to watery and bloody stool. A dog’s appetite will decrease or he may stop eating entirely as the disease progresses. Affected dogs will lose weight.Pythiosis of the gastrointestinal tract may cause abnormal thickening of the esophagus, stomach, and small or large intestine. Masses may develop at these sites, which may be felt by your veterinarian on abdominal palpation.The infection may spread to adjacent abdominal organs (pancreas, gallbladder, liver, or uterus).
Diagnosis
There are two tests that your veterinarian may order if she suspects pythiosis. The first is a blood test called a Pythium insidiosum ELISA test. This tests for antibodies in your dog’s blood, indicating exposure to the P. insidiosum organism.
The second test is histopathology of a biopsy sample obtained from one or more lesions. For the cutaneous form, biopsy samples are taken from one or more skin lesions. For the gastrointestinal form, an abdominal exploratory surgery is performed and biopsy samples are taken from any abdominal masses or thickened areas of the gastrointestinal tract. The biopsy samples must be stained with a special stain called GMS so that the P. insidiosum organism can be seen under a microscope.
Treatment for pythiosis in dogs
Treatment involves a wide surgical excision of the affected area. If the skin lesion is on a limb or the tail, the limb or tail may need to be amputated. For the gastrointestinal form, affected sections of the small or large intestine would need to be resected.
After surgery, dogs with either form are then treated with antifungal medications for two to four months after surgical removal of the lesions. In many cases, the lesions are so large and extensive that surgical excision is not possible.
In these cases, dogs are treated with a lengthy course of antifungal medications. Combination therapy with itraconazole and terbinafine with or without amphotericin B are often used. Because P. insidiosum is not a fungus (but looks and acts like one), antifungal therapy alone is successful in treating only about 20% of dogs with pythiosis.
A case report published in 2019 described the successful treatment of three dogs with pythiosis of the colon using a combination of itraconazole, terbinafine, and prednisone. All three dogs had complete resolution of their clinical signs, regression of their colonic masses, and achieved negative titers for P. insidiosum.
Another case report published in 2011 described the successful treatment of one dog with pythiosis of the stomach and small intestine using a combination of itraconazole, terbinafine, and mefenoxam.
Mefenoxam is an agricultural fungicide. It is used to control oomycetes that are pathogenic to agricultural crops, grasses, and ornamental plants. The Environmental Protection Agency had to complete safety studies of mefenoxam on mammals as part of the approval process for this fungicide. This is what gave the authors of this report the idea to try mefenoxam.
A case report published in 2020 also examined the treatment protocol of itraconazole, terbinafine, and mefenoxam. Five dogs with gastrointestinal pythiosis and one dog with cutaneous pythiosis were treated with this protocol. This report found that use of mefenoxam may improve outcomes for dogs with gastrointestinal pythiosis.
The University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine is recruiting dogs diagnosed with pythiosis for two pilot studies examining different treatments. People interested in these studies can read more about them and fill out the study interest forms at https://research.vetmed.ufl.edu/clinical-trials/contact-us/.
Currently, the most successful treatment for pythiosis in dogs is an immunotherapy option. Pythium insidiosum antigen (PIA) is a therapeutic vaccine that elicits a change in how a dog’s immune system responds to P. insidiosum in the body. Because this is a therapeutic vaccine, it does not prevent infection with P. insidiosum. PIA is most effective when given early in the course of the disease. It has been shown to be effective in 55% of dogs treated. This treatment is available from Pan American Veterinary Laboratories (PAVLAB); call (512) 964-3927 or see pavlab.com/pavlab/pythiosis-insidiosum/ for more information.
Prognosis
The prognosis for dogs with pythiosis, especially advanced cases, is not good. One study of 10 cases reported a post-diagnosis median survival time of 26 days, and the condition was fatal in all 10 dogs.
However, new treatments on the horizon may change the outlook for dogs with this disease. Prompt recognition of symptoms leading to an early diagnosis – before a case becomes chronic – is the key to successful treatment. Because this disease is rare but spreading into new areas, not all veterinarians will recognize it. If your dog shows signs of pythiosis (a non-healing sore, or sudden weight loss and persistent vomiting or diarrhea), raise the possibility with your veterinarian.
An Informative Website, Created by a Grieving Owner
Pythiosis.com is owned by Tammy Bell, whose 4-year-old Labrador, Rusti, died of pythiosis in 2006. Since then, Bell has maintained the site, to increase awareness of the illness and help people find the best diagnostics and treatments. On the home page, she writes:
“Unless your vet has personally experienced this disease, they will probably not recognize its symptoms and most do not know about the simple blood test to detect its antibodies or the immunotherapy treatment. Early intervention is critical with this infection. PAVLAB in Texas has the fastest and easiest blood test available for both Pythiosis and Langenidium, which is closely related. The PavLab immunotherapy treatment continues to be the least invasive and most effective treatment option. Contact them at 512-964-3927 for information.”
Your veterinarian always checks the color of your dog’s gums when she does an exam; their color is an important indicator of your dog’s health. Photo by Hybrid Images, Getty Images
Do you know what your dog’s gums look like? If not, check them now. Most healthy dogs have pink or salmon-colored gums, though some gums have dark or black patches. Be familiar with your dog’s “normal” gum color so you can recognize problems when they occur.
A simple way to test your dog’s gums is to briefly press one finger against the gums. The pressed area will look white for 1 to 2 seconds, then return to its normal color. Another test is to touch your dog’s gums to check their texture. Sticky, tacky gums can indicate dehydration or other problems.
If your dog seems out of sorts, lethargic, or weak, check his gums. Pale gums (pale pink to white) are a serious symptom that can be caused by:
Anemia (low red blood cell count due to injury, parasites, a clotting disorder, cancer, autoimmune disorders, or kidney disease)
Internal bleeding (traumatic injury or organ disease)
Shock (reaction to an accident or other physical trauma)
Bloat (distended abdomen leading to circulation problems)
Heavy metal toxicity (vomiting, lethargy, or reduced appetite)
Anemic dogs are often tired, weak, have trouble breathing, experience weight loss, and have a rapid heartbeat. Dogs with heart disease can be lethargic or coughing, and the abdomen can fill with fluid.
Shock, bloat, and trauma injuries are medical emergencies so if your veterinarian isn’t available, contact your nearest emergency clinic. Otherwise, call your veterinarian and describe when you noticed your dog’s pale gums, what they look and feel like, any changes in your dog’s appearance or behavior, and whether your dog has eaten anything potentially harmful, such as pennies.
This Jack Russell Terrier shows the classic button ear. Credit Anita Kot | Getty Images
Button-eared dogs are hunting or herding breeds whose ears help protect them while digging or running through brush. Button ears are straight at the base, semi-erect, and then fold over about halfway up to cover the sensitive parts of the ear. Think of a shirt with a button-down pocket. That’s where legend has it the name originated. The American Kennel Club defines a button ear as, “A small, neat ear with the flap folding forward, covering the opening of the ear.”
Dog breeds with button ears include the Airedale Terrier, the Jack Russell Terrier, the Smooth Fox Terrier, the Manchester Terrier, and the Australian Shepherd (who can also have rose ears).
These breeds needed protection to do their original jobs, which was either to hunt ground-dwelling rodents or to herd sheep. In either case, their sensitive hearing was an important sense to either find prey or find the sheep. A dog’s hearing is about four times more sensitive than ours, and they can hear things as much as four miles away.
This Greyhound has a rose ear, which is upright but falls toward the back. Credit Juergen Latzke/500 px | Getty Images
Don’t confuse button ears with rose ears, although both kinds of ears fold over. The AKC says a rose ear is “a small drop ear that folds over and back so as to reveal the burr (the inside of the ear).” A rose ear bends forward over the back edge, while the upper front edge curves over, backward, and out. As a result, a rose ear reveals the cartilage inside the ear. It does not protect the inner ear the way a button ear does. Breeds with a rose ear include the Greyhound, Boxer, and rough-coated Collie.
A dog who eats too fast is risking health issues. Avoid feeding two dogs close to one another, as one dog may bolt his own food so he can have a chance at the other dog’s dish. Feed multiple dogs away from one another, in separate rooms, or in their own crates, if they are well crate-trained. Credit: Rosmarie Wirz | Getty Images
Most dogs love food. Some dogs love their food so much that they eat it faster than we can blink—or so it seems! Dogs who eat too fast can become ill, especially if they also ingest a great deal of air and get a potentially fatal condition known as bloat. Anyone who has experienced this condition with their dog knows how important it is to get a dog to slow down eating.
Some dogs eat at such a fast pace that their bodies can’t keep up—the food never even gets to the point of being digested. The result is the regurgitation of food, which occurs when the food that is swallowed comes right back out the mouth due to backward contraction of the muscles of the esophagus. The food never even made it to the stomach. In these cases, the recommendation is to slow down the dog’s ingestion of food.
For those who just want to get a dog or puppy to eat slower, there are several good techniques you can try:
Feed smaller meals more frequently throughout the day. The food can be metered out by an owner or a timed automatic food dispenser
Slow feeding bowls are designed with upward protrusions in the bottom of the dish to prevent a dog from scooping up large mouthfuls of food all at once. These special dishes only allow a smaller amount of kibble to be picked up at a time. A similar technique to slow eating can be to separate the kibble in a larger dish like a cafeteria tray or place the food in the openings in a muffin pan. You can add water to the kibble so it floats or place clean, large—too large to swallow or even put in his mouth—objects in the food dish, like tennis balls or rocks, that he has to work around to get his food.
There are many food-dispensing toys on the market, and most can be used with the kibble you’d normally feed in a meal. The added benefit of these devices is that they will burn through some energy at the same time. Some food dispensing toys can accommodate kibble, wet food, or both. Keep them clean, of course.
If your dog eats canned food, consider a lick mat. These are silicone mats with a raised pattern of nubs or ridges. The moist food can be smeared into the nooks and crannies of the mat, and your dog will have to lick the food out, instead of gulping mouthfuls at a time.
A wet-food-laden food-dispensing toy or lick mat can be frozen to prolong meal time even further.
If you’ve tried these techniques, and your dog is still bringing food up (regurgitation or vomiting), consult with your dog’s veterinarian to rule out a more serious issue.
What looks bucolic to us humans may appear threatening to our pups. To create confident adult dogs, it’s critical to integrate them into our world carefully and positively when they are pups. Photo by SolStock | Getty Images
Socializing your puppy the right way takes thoughtful effort, but it just might be the most important thing you’ll ever do for your dog.
The first four months of a puppy’s life hold particular potential to affect his confidence as an adult. A robust body of research has shown that puppies are deeply, quickly, and often permanently impacted by what they experience during what’s now called the “sensitive period,” from about 3 to 14 weeks of age. Pups who have a range of positive experiences with humans and our world in that key time frame are much less likely to become skittish or fearful adult dogs.
Sounds like a great opportunity, right? Except it also sounds like a lot of pressure on owners. That ticking clock (only 14 weeks!) can push people into going overboard – which has the tragic effect of accomplishing the exact opposite of the goal. Why? Because that sensitive period works both ways.
Let’s say two owners want to be sure their puppy turns out to be great with kids, and they know these early weeks are key. One takes their pup on a well-intentioned trip to the soccer game sidelines, where he is swarmed by squealing kids, all reaching for him at once. The other arranges a supervised visit from the three nicest neighbor children, who sit on the floor dangling fun toys and hoping the pup will choose their lap.
Those experiences might not look different to an inexperienced owner – but read on to see why, later in life, the soccer-game puppy may need to be crated whenever kids are present, and the neighbor-kids puppy may waggily insist on being included in every birthday party. The devil is in the details.
To get socialization right, owners have to walk a tightrope. They need to gently expose the puppy to all sorts of new sights, sounds, smells, people, places, and surfaces – all without letting the puppy feel scared. (A momentary startle is fine, but we want to see a quick bounce-back.) It takes a little education and planning to make the most of this short phase, but the payoff is huge.
Earn Your Puppy’s Trust
The first step is to build trust. Studies show that the youngest puppies can happily handle new things as long as the mama dog is right there. Take away the mom, though, and suddenly that loud noise feels scary. Once you bring a puppy home, you have the chance to become the security blanket that helps your puppy bravely explore the world.
To do that, be a calm, consistent, gentle, positive presence at home. The puppy needs to learn to feel totally safe with you. (Try not to mess up and yell when you see a puddle on the floor!) The more a puppy trusts you, the more easily he’ll gain the confidence to explore new situations with you by his side.
Learn Body Language
Before you start introducing potentially startling Human World things to this toddler from Planet Dog, learn more about your puppy’s body language. Puppies can’t say the words “I’m scared,” but their bodies are constantly talking to those who will listen.
Most owners will pick up on when a pup is doing the equivalent of screaming: trembling, pulling away, hiding. But there are many more subtle ways that a dog can reveal discomfort, and they can be easily missed (see the sidebar below, “Stressed Puppy Body Language That’s Easy to Miss”).
While you’re still refining your observational skills, there’s an easy trick that lets you off the hook: Simply give the puppy space, and let him choose whether and at what pace to proceed.
Give Puppy a Choice
Learning the nuances of canine body language takes time, but you’ll get more clues about your puppy’s confidence if you give him a choice about each interaction. That means:
Let him walk. You’ll learn a lot about how a puppy’s feeling about something if he walks toward it or away from it. That’s why it’s better, if you can, to put pup on the ground in new situations.
Don’t pull the leash. Dragging him toward something new will not make him “get used to it” – and may make him scared of it (and you) forever.
Never trap the puppy. Feeling trapped – by a leash, by a hug, by a circling crowd, by a tiny hallway – makes any new experience scary. Always provide an easy escape.
If you give your pup agency in these ways throughout each new experience, you’ll increase the odds that it will imprint positively on him and make him a more confident adult.
Make Experiences Positive
The goal of socialization is to help your puppy form positive associations with all sorts of novel things. We could never introduce a pup to everything he’ll encounter later in life, so instead we aim to teach a pup to feel great about novelty itself. We want the adult dog to see something he hasn’t seen before and think, “Huh. I don’t know what that is, but there’s no reason to worry.” To accomplish that, exposure alone is not enough. Here’s how to stack the deck so that things feel more positive:
Keep your voice happy. First, remember to watch your own vibe. As your pup’s guide to Human World, you want to set the tone. Use a calm demeanor and a happy voice as you narrate what’s happening. “Hey! I see a bike! Do you see that bike? It’s okay, it’s just a bike.” (To learn more about how talking to your pup helps her learn, see “How to Talk to Your Dog,” WDJ July 2022.)
No forcing. Is pup hesitating? That’s okay. Be patient. Put more distance between your pup and whatever is scaring her; just cheerily move in a different direction. “Hey, that’s a truck! Let’s head over here so we can watch it from a distance.”
Use food. Delicious food is the easiest, most direct way to form a happy link between an experience and a pup. Your pup pulls back at a flag waving? “Oh, look, it’s a flag! Here’s some chicken!”
Don’t lure. Resist the temptation to lure. You don’t want to poison the power of food by linking it with a feeling of being scared, so don’t use food to encourage pup toward a thing he wants to stay far away from. Instead, as he makes his own choice to look at or move toward the New Thing, pair that with a bite of cheese.
Know when to quit. Finally, know when to bail. If you had a plan to have the puppy meet the plumber who’s working downstairs and you’ve walked into the room with a happy vibe, sat with pup at a distance, giving a salmon treat every time he looks at the guy, and then pup wants to head for the hills … Call it quits for today! Go play with a squeaky toy upstairs.
Start at Home
Now that you understand the key principles, it’s time to get started. Great socialization begins at home, where the puppy is most confident.
Since the goal is “novelty,” there is no generic must-do list, but we’ll offer a sample list for inspiration. Any home – even the tiniest of apartments – can be an adventureland for a little puppy if you just put on your thinking cap. Write down one new thing you do each day and use the tips in the three sections above to guide every new experience.
It’s easy to set up novel experiences for your pup at home, just use your imagination – or your child’s! Photo by Jessie Casson | Getty Images
Here’s how you’d go about introducing the first suggestion on our list (wearing different hats):
While the puppy is relaxed and looking at you, show her a hat, and give her a treat. Let her investigate the hat, and give her another treat. Continue completely at her pace until she’s absolutely relaxed around the hat, then put it on, and immediately take it off. Treat!
Unfazed? Great, do it again. Toss another treat. Continue at the puppy’s pace until she is eagerly awaiting you putting on the hat because it means another treat is coming her way. Next, keep the hat on and do some fun training as long as the pup is engaged with you and not worried.
The next day, try a different hat. All okay? Then, instead of letting the pup see you putting on the hat, walk into the room with the hat on. Take it off immediately as you say “It’s okay, it’s just my hat!” If the pup is worried for more than a few seconds at any point, call it a day and start again the next day at a lower intensity.
Mimic this stair-step approach for each of your pup’s novel experiences. Keep in mind that some dogs will be so obviously confident about some of these things that you’ll be able to go from introduction to high intensity interaction almost immediately. Others may feel excruciatingly slow, but keep it up because it works.
Here are some suggestions for novel experiences you can set up for your pup at home:
Wear different hats.
Play music. Start with Bach at low volume and slowly progress – as the puppy shows she’s fine with it – to louder rock music.
Walk around wearing a backpack.
Click across the floor in heels; walk in clunky boots.
Starting with the pup in the next room, run a blender, vacuum, or hair dryer for just a few seconds. Does pup come to investigate? Great. Do it again for just a few seconds, and toss her a treat. “It’s okay, it’s just the blender!” Still okay? Increase the duration. Here’s a link to what “puppy’s first vacuum experience” might look like.
Drape a sheet between two kitchen chairs, letting it dangle.
Take “field trips” to parts of the house the pup doesn’t usually see. Play there for a few minutes.
Carry a big box.
Starting at a low volume, put on TV shows for a few minutes here and there that have sounds the puppy otherwise won’t hear, maybe: kid voices, screeching tires, sirens, laugh tracks.
Put a crinkly tarp or aluminum foil on the floor for a bit, so pup can investigate and, ideally, walk across it.
Invite over one nice, calm neighbor who will respect your instruction to wait for puppy to choose interaction. Going well? Progress to more folks, more movement, more volume.
Sit on your front stoop when pup might get to see bikes, strollers, skateboards – all from the safety of his home.
Note that big families with young kids will not have to work quite as hard at this, because there is likely always something new, loud, and filled with motion happening. It’s empty-nesters like me, and folks who live alone, who need to work a little harder to vary our routines.
Next: Field Trips
Of course there’s only so much your puppy can learn about the world from the confines of your own home, and that’s why it is critical to get out and about. Wait a week or two to make sure your pup has transitioned comfortably to your household, but then it’s time to plan some outings.
That planning element is key for two reasons. The first is the puppy’s health. During the time the socialization window is wide open, puppies aren’t yet finished with their vaccination series (for diseases such as distemper and parvo). Decades ago the advice was to stay home until it was 100% safe to go out, but we know better now: That black-and-white guidance does more harm than good (see “Balancing Dual Threats: Protecting Puppies Against Viral Disease and Behavioral Problems,” October 2022). Be safe and smart; get that pup out where he can become more behaviorally sound thanks to solid exposure to the wider world.
The second reason planning is key is because you need to be 100% attentive to your pup if socialization is to be effective. It’s a common mistake to think it’s a great idea to bring the puppy everywhere you go. Nope! Don’t try to multitask.
If there’s a sale at the dog-friendly garden store, go spend a lovely hour selecting your plants – and leave puppy home with a food-stuffed toy. Go back there the next day for an adventure with your puppy, when you can focus 100% on his body language and adjust based on his needs. Here’s a video that shows what “puppy’s first trip to a store” should look like.
Here are some outings designed to prevent overwhelming your pup:
Visit your favorite neighbor’s yard. Play tug, give treats.
Walk past the playground while the kids are out there running and playing. Happy voice: “Do you hear those kids? Those are kids, playing!” Time for tiny pieces of hot dog.
Bring puppy to your friends’ houses. Worried because puppy’s not house-trained yet? Walk around out front until puppy goes to the bathroom, then visit inside for just five minutes – ideally long enough for your happy voices to help the puppy choose to go sit in your friend’s lap as she sits on the floor.
Take your pup on very short, predictable car rides, often. Going around the block is good, and going someplace the puppy loves is even better. Don’t let the only car rides be to the vet!
Go wherever you need to so that your pup can try walking on grass, sand, mud, concrete, tile, stairs, a bridge, and so on.
Give your pup a chance to choose to step in water. Small streams on a woods walk are a great way to start.
Don’t Get Overwhelmed!
I hope you feel empowered rather than overwhelmed after reading this. Once you wrap your head around it, it’s actually easy to give your pup (and yourself) this amazing gift. It does not take loads of time; it’s really a matter of flipping a switch so you keep it top of mind.
Happen to have lots of time this afternoon? Bring your pup to your friend’s house! Overwhelmed by other obligations today? Fine. Put on a hat!
Stressed Puppy Body Language That's Easy to Miss
The key to socializing your puppy effectively is using her feelings as a guide – but that’s impossible if you don’t know how your pup is feeling! Studying up on canine body language is the answer. Some signs of fear and stress are obvious, such as trembling, running away, and hiding, but keep an eye out for these subtle signs, too:
Yawns. Folks, dogs are not that tired. Those yawns you’re seeing – especially if they seem exaggerated and extra wide – are most likely a sign of stress. You’ll see it in a training class, when guests come over, when you’re petting too much, and when kids hug a dog. Those yawns are a dog processing discomfort. If you see a yawn, ask yourself what might be making your dog stressed out.
Lip-Licking. This is similar to yawning; dogs often lick their lips when they feel uncomfortable.
“Kiss to dismiss.” When dogs lick humans with affection, it’s typically one quick flick, or a sustained activity of leisurely soft licks. But the lick that’s worrisome – the one that trainers call the “kiss to dismiss” – looks different. It’s intense, sometimes fast, hard, even frantic. Parents often misinterpret this, thinking the dog is finally learning to love the toddler, but that licking is designed to get the advancing human to stop!
Turning or leaning away. If you’re approaching a dog and he turns his head away from you, it’s a request for more space. A dog who wants attention will turn toward you and lean in.
Facial tension. A puppy’s wrinkled forehead is cute – until you realize those wrinkles are exaggerated because the pup is so worried at the moment. A mouth that’s tightly clamped shut echoes the message of those wrinkles.
Rolling over “for a belly rub.” Yes, sometimes happy dogs will roll over to invite a belly rub. Unfortunately, rolling over can also be a white flag, a sign the dog feels overwhelmed. Additional context clues can tell you which you’re seeing, but err on the side of caution. Back up five feet, sit on the ground (so you’re not looming), and give the dog the space and time to make his own decision. (If the rolling over happened as the puppy was surrounded by your kid’s squealing soccer team, sorry, that was probably not a request for a belly rub.)
Being unusually still or falling asleep. Sometimes people will tell me their puppy was AMAZING at the (fill in the blank with a big, chaotic experience that the human couldn’t have dialed back to meet the puppy’s needs). “She slept the whole time!” “He just sat still while everybody petted him!” Just like human babies, when they’re feeling overwhelmed, puppies will escape by going to sleep. Sometimes, they will sit or lay very still, feeling they have no other choice. Humans often misinterpret this as “good as gold” behavior when it is actually terrified behavior.
“Whale eye.” When trainers see too much of the white of a dog’s eye, they look to see what might be wrong. That “whale eye” can happen when the stressed dog is staying very still but moving her eyes to watch what’s happening. A relaxed dog would just turn her head.
If you see any of these signs of apprehension or fear, get your puppy some more space from whatever is overwhelming her, until she’s recovered her confidence and good cheer. Also, if your pup is already overly fearful of new things you will need to do more to modify his fear behaviors. In this case, it would be a good idea to seek the help of a qualified force-free behavior professional. Also See “Are Dogs More Fearful Than They Used to Be?” December 2018.
If you apply Neosporin to a wound on your dog, it’s a good idea to also put a cone on him, so that he cannot lick off the medication. Credit: Cmannphoto | Getty Images
Is Neosporin safe for dogs? Yes and no. Neosporin ointment is an FDA-approved over-the-counter antibiotic ointment for people. It contains three medications: bacitracin, neomycin, and polymyxin B. Neosporin is generally used for superficial wounds and scrapes.
The plus to using Neosporin on a dog’s injury is that it does provide a barrier between the injured tissues and outside dirt, bacteria, and debris. It can help keep tissues hydrated so they heal faster, and it kills any bacteria left after your cleansing.
When Dogs Lick Off Neosporin
The problem with using Neosporin on dogs includes the medication itself, plus the general nature of dogs. Dogs lick, especially any scrapes or wounds. That means they are consuming a medication designed for topical use only. They will lick it off their noses, their paws, and most parts of their bodies. If you apply Neosporin, you also need to put a barrier or cone on the dog, so he can’t lick the ointment off.
It’s also concerning that neomycin, one of the medications in Neosporin, has been linked to hearing loss in dogs. Granted, it would take more than a single light dose over a small scrape, but it is something to know.
All antibiotics can upset your dog’s gastrointestinal tract by altering the normal microbiome. This is especially true when your dog licks an ointment off and swallows it. In rare cases, your dog might have an allergic reaction to one of the three medications in Neosporin.
Bottom Line on Neosporin for Dogs
All wounds need more attention than a swipe of antibiotic ointment. The first step is to gently clean the injury using something like chlorhexidine (not hydrogen peroxide, which may delay healing). That may be all the cut requires. With antibiotic resistance becoming a serious problem, it behooves us all to only use any antibiotic only as needed.
If you truly feel your dog needs some added protection for a scrape or shallow wound, cleaning the wound and applying a dab of Neosporin is unlikely to cause harm. It may not be needed, however, and you will still need to protect the injury from licking.
Dramamine, or preferably an FDA-approved drug, can help your dog with motion sickness. Note that this dog is properly secured in the vehicle with a padded car-safety harness that hooks to the seatbelt apparatus and has a dog hammock that stops him from falling between the seats. (It also protects the car’s seats.) Credit: BanksPhotos | Getty Images
Dramamine is often the drug of choice for treating motion sickness in people. Dramamine works in dogs, too, but that doesn’t mean it’s the best choice. Then what can you give your dog for motion sickness?
The symptoms of motion sickness are nausea and/or vomiting caused by riding in a moving vehicle. And, as soon as the motion stops, the nausea or vomiting stops.
Many dogs suffer from motion sickness, and owners of these dogs often dread traveling with them. Motion sickness happens most often in young puppies, which happily disappears as they get older. Note: Travel anxiety is different from motion sickness and requires other treatments if this is the primary problem, or if the anxiety is in addition to motion sickness.
To combat motion sickness naturally, it is generally recommended not to feed your dog or puppy within two hours of travel if he often gets motion sickness. This alone might not keep your dog from feeling sick, but it will reduce the amount of mess that needs to be cleaned up afterward.
Dramamine for Dogs
Some over-the-counter human medication antihistamines, like Dramamine, are widely considered safe for dogs. Dramamine (dimenhydrinate) is related to Benadryl (diphenhydramine), which you may have administered to your dog if he had a reaction to a bee sting. Dramamine can be given 30 minutes prior to travel, and the anti-nausea effect lasts for three to six hours.
Bonine (meclizine), also an antihistamine, can be given one to two hours prior to travel. Given on an empty stomach, the anti-nausea effect lasts for 24 hours.
A Note of Caution: Side Effects of Dramamine for Dogs
The main side effect of these antihistamines is mild sedation, but other side effects like diarrhea are possible. In addition, some dogs with health issues like kidney, liver, or heart disease might not be good candidates. These medicines come in different strengths, which is extremely important for dosages. For these reasons, the safest thing to do is discuss what you want to do with your veterinarian, who may recommend you consider an FDA-approved medication instead.
FDA-Approved Medications for Dog Motion Sickness
Two medications are FDA-approved for motion sickness in dogs. Both require a prescription.
Cerenia (maropitant) acts on a trigger zone in the brain to prevent vomiting. It should be given two hours prior to travel on empty stomach, is effective for 24 hours, but should not be used for more than two days in a row for motion sickness. Cerenia can be administered safely to dogs who are at least 16 weeks old.
Acepromazine, or “ace,” is more commonly known as a tranquilizing/sedating drug, but it has anti-vomiting effects. It is recommended less often because of its side effects: moderate sedation and a decrease in blood pressure. In most dogs, the effect lasts for three to four hours. Boxers, sighthounds, and some herding breed dogs can be particularly sensitive to acepromazine.
An anti-anxiety bed is classically round, with a fur-like covering and a deep indented “nest” in the center that your dog can snuggle down into. Credit: Cindy Foley
Many manufacturers claim to have an anxiety-reducing dog bed that can make your dog feel less worried and safer. We found at least five dozen beds priced at less than $100 advertised as anti-anxiety beds seemingly by virtue of meeting one or two of these three criteria:
It’s warm and cozy An anti-anxiety bed’s purpose is to make a dog feel warm, comfortable, and safe–like he did as a puppy when he was sleeping with his mother and littermates, so it has faux fur (to resemble mom’s fur) and a raised edge to put his head in a similar position as his littermates did.
It’s deep and soft Again, the theory is to replicate the snuggling that he once felt as a puppy. It’s usually a round bed, because a pile of puppies is usually round-ish, not square.
It fits and “belongs” to your dog What’s a comfortable bed for your dog will vary, but he needs a bed he can call his own. It needs to be the right size for your dog’s preferences—some dogs want the old bed they’ve had since puppy days; other dogs want the smallest size bed they can squeeze into; and a few dogs prefer a large, flat bed they can stretch out on.If your dog has any orthopedic issues, consider a bed that claims it has orthopedic support and then “test” it yourself to determine if it’s cushioning and supportive. A comfortable bed helps reduce anxiety (we can all testify to that, right?).
Be careful what bed you choose, though. Some pet-anxiety beds don’t unzip for cleaning; some have inferior memory foam liners that are hot or can emit noxious fumes; and most lack the faux hair cover. It’s easy to find a bed with all three qualities if you’re willing to spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars, though.
As for science, frankly, we didn’t find any peer-reviewed scientifically designed studies on how or if anti-anxiety beds make your dog feel better. We found studies paid for by manufacturers, studies about pets and humans sleeping on the same bed, and studies that took human orthopedic bed data and moved it to dog beds—all of which were referenced as support for anti-anxiety beds.
It’s OK, though, because an anxiety bed is a bit like putting a Band-Aid on a wound that needs stitches. You need to figure out what’s causing his anxiety and fix that. Is it his environment (an unhappy household), separation anxiety, other dogs or the lack of them, his exercise level, thunderstorms or other noises, or is it your behavior?
Some of these issues can be changed with the help of a force-free dog trainer, and some things (like thunderstorms) may not be changed at all. If it’s separation anxiety because your dog must sleep in a different room from you, the most expensive bed on earth won’t solve that.
After trying to reduce anxiety with training and environmental changes, it is wise to consult your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medications. It won’t hurt anything but your wallet to buy an anti-anxiety bed, but it may not make a difference either.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
