Pet Insurance for Dogs

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February 8, 2023

dog at vet pet insurance for vet emergencies — Veterinary emergencies come in many forms; your dog can slip on damp grass and tear his ACL, suddenly exhibit extreme lethargy due to a ruptured spleen, choke on a piece of a toy, or, as seen here, need to be treated for an accidental poisoning from eating an entire bottle of a carelessly stored prescription medication. Treatment and just a single night in the hospital can run into several thousand dollars, making an entire year’s insurance premiums entirely worth the cost. Photo by Nancy Kerns.

Only only about 3% of the almost 77 million dogs living in the United States are covered by pet health insurance. That’s a lot of dog owners footing the entire veterinary bill themselves or, sadly, sometimes opting for what’s called “economic euthanasia,” which means the dog is ill but the owners cannot afford the cost of treatment. Don’t let that happen to you and your dog!

Since inflation drove up the cost of veterinary care an estimated 10% last year, you’d think that pet health insurance premiums might have increased as well. But, surprise! The North American Pet Health Insurance Association (NAPHIA) 2022 State of the Industry Report shows that the cost of dog health insurance decreased 3.3% in 2021 with an average cost of $583.91 per year ($48.58 per month). The fact is, pet insurance is not that expensive, and it does whittle down out-of-pocket veterinary expenses.

Why Purchase Pet Insurance? A Risk-Management Decisions

Both you and pet insurance companies make risk-management decisions when it comes to the cost of insurance and deciding what dog insurance covers for your dog and how much it will cost.

In setting its rates, the insurance company looks at the likelihood of your dog becoming ill or injured, which includes your dog’s breed, age, size, and (sometimes) activity, and where you live (consider that everything’s more expensive in New York City than it is in Mercedes, Texas).

Data shows why the breed of dog makes a difference. For example, 65% of Golden Retrievers die from cancer compared to a 25% rate in all dogs, according to a June 2022 study in PLOS. So, yes, insuring your Golden will cost more than a Jack Russell Terrier, one of the least expensive to insure, but it’s not an arbitrary thing. There are numbers behind the decisions.

Size matters, too. Larger dogs are more prone to orthopedic and tendon/ligament issues than smaller dogs, and often the costs of their medications are higher. Finally, aging brings on more illnesses and problems, just as it does in people, so insurance rates rise every year for your dog.

Those things will affect the prices that insurance companies will quote for covering your dog. But you need to look hard at what you get for your money, and compare this with offerings from other companies, in order to get the best protection for your dog for the money.

Financial Help for Pet Medical Bills

In some areas, you may be able to get financial help paying your dog’s veterinary bills (beyond begging friends and relatives for help).

The American Veterinary Medical Association lists places that will help with your veterinary bills, if you qualify. Visit https://www.avma.org/resources/pet-owners/yourvet/financial-assistance-veterinary-care-costs to learn more. They advise that you can also contact your state’s veterinary medical association to see what is offered in your area.

CareCredit offers a no-interest credit card to pay your veterinary bills within a short period of time. You need to apply for the card, and your veterinarian must be a participating provider. A quick look showed that far more veterinary clinics are accepting this option over discount cards. In addition, CareCredit offers a discount on your premium for Pets Best insurance, if that insurance fits you and your dog’s needs

Check Prospective Pet Insurance Policies For These Things

NAPHIA lists 38 pet insurance companies among its members; there are a lot of choices for insurance. In the chart below, we’ve listed what we feel are the top choices available, but it’s not an all-inclusive list. The best dog insurance is the one that suits your individual needs and covers your dog’s most common risks.

The first thing to do when you’re evaluating an insurance policy is to download a sample copy of the insurance policy and really read it. It’s the only way to know for sure what the insurance covers and doesn’t cover – the exclusions. If you cannot download a copy, email the company and request one. If they refuse to send one, move on.

Examine the policies you are considering so you understand how they deal with the following:

Waiting periods. Every insurer has waiting periods before coverage starts – otherwise everyone would just wait until their dog is ill and then get insurance. It doesn’t work that way! Most waiting periods are two weeks on illness, sometimes less time for accidents. Orthopedic coverage may be around six months.These are all acceptable and understandable ranges and illnesses that occur during that waiting period may be considered pre-existing. Find out. The AKC insurance is the only insurer we found that will cover pre-existing conditions. They will not cover them for the first year of your policy but, if your dog has had no incident of the condition during that year, after those 365 days, they will cover new episodes.

What’s “medically necessary.” Be sure the policy defines “medically necessary” services. Are these services the insurer considers necessary? If so, that policy may not be best for you. It should cover all services recommended by your veterinarian. “Medically necessary” is a term we think should be defined by the veterinary professional.
Exclusions (what it won’t cover). When you read the policy, highlight things that concern you, such as no breeding coverage. Does that include accidental pregnancies or just professional breeders? If you’re not sure if you should be concerned about an exclusion or not, ask your veterinarian. Most veterinarians will do everything they can to help you with insurance because they know it benefits the dog; any vet will tell you that the saddest and most frustrating part of their profession is being told that a sick or hurt pet’s owner cannot afford the treatment.Exclusions for elective procedures like tail docking are understandable. But “bilateral exclusions” are far less understandable; they mean that if a dog requires knee surgery on the right leg and later injures his left, it won’t be covered!Also watch out for exclusions that are worded in a confusing manner, like: “If your pet has undiagnosed masses prior to the end of the waiting period, any mass or condition where a mass is a clinical sign is not covered, including cancer.” What? Email the company to clarify any wording you don’t understand and get the answer in writing. If they won’t do that, say “No, thank you.”

Requirements for enrollment. The insurer may require complete medical records for your dog before they issue a policy. They also may require a veterinary exam have been done within the last 12 months. Some policies will deny claims if you do not, in their opinion, properly care for your dog, including annual visits and vaccinations.The policy may state things like if your veterinarian recommends a certain treatment and you refuse that treatment, that condition may be excluded in the future. For example, if you refuse to give your dog a particular vaccination and your dog contracts that disease, the insurance will not cover the treatment.Find out what you must do every year to stay insured. Are there specific vaccinations you must give? Do you have to have an annual well visit? These are not unreasonable, but you need to be aware of them and adhere to them or risk getting your claim denied.

Senior dogs. If you want to have your dog insured into old age until the very end, no matter the cost, be sure that the company will do that when you sign up for the insurance. Nearly all companies have a limit as to how old the dog can be upon initial enrollment but will cover the already insured dog – at a high cost – until death. A few will only cover up until a specified age.
Dental care. For many dogs, it’s not a case of if but when they will have dental problems (yes, brushing their teeth every day makes a positive difference, but so few of us do it). Check to be sure dental care is covered and avoid policies with limits on dentals. One policy had a $1,000 cap. I know of at least two people whose dogs had dental bills of over $2,500. Some policies require professional teeth cleaning to cover dental procedures due to poor teeth.
Congenital/hereditary diseases. If these conditions are diagnosed prior to you getting a policy, it’s understandable that the insurance would consider them pre-existing. This is one of the many reasons to insure your puppy as soon as she comes home. However, some policies refuse to cover any inherited diseases, such as hip dysplasia.
Prescriptions. Nearly every company covers prescriptions at 100% of actual cost. If the one you’re looking at doesn’t, consider another one. Always check for the prescription formulary list of drugs as well. These are the medicines the company will reimburse.You can’t predict what drugs your dog will or will not need, but if the list is really short – like one page – you might wonder why.

Continued coverage. The policy should state that they continue to cover your dog even if he becomes chronically ill, as long as you pay the premiums. Be wary of provisions that state they can cancel if your dog contracts a chronic disease, like diabetes, or that they only pay for that disease for one year. Fortunately, these are outdated policies, but they may appear.
Specialists. As in human medicine, veterinary medicine is becoming increasingly a specialist field. While decades ago, you saw one veterinarian for nearly everything your dog needed, now you may find yourself being referred to a cardiologist or orthopedist or ophthalmologist. Be sure there are no contract exclusions on seeing a specialist.
Payment to you or the veterinarian? With most plans, you must pay the veterinarian at the time of your visit and then be reimbursed by the insurance. Note: Trupanion will pay the veterinarian directly, but your vet must be willing to accept that option.

Which veterinarians you can see. Every policy should say that you can see any licensed veterinarian in any state. There are programs masquerading as insurances that require you to use a veterinarian from within their corporation, which could become a problem if you decide you don’t like the clinic anymore.

How to Save Money on Pet Insurance Premiums

There are a number of ways that you can save money on the cost of your dog’s insurance – and a few things that we don’t recommend trying:

Insure early. The age of your dog when he’s first enrolled matters – a lot. Insure your dog as soon as you get him. The least expensive rates start at puppy ages. Every year you wait, the initial premium will be higher – higher than if you started insuring with that company when the dog was a pup.Don’t listen to the naysayers who claim young dogs don’t have to be insured. Have you heard of a greenstick fracture? Also, anything your puppy or young adult dog is seen by a veterinarian for prior to his enrollment in an insurance plan will likely be excluded as a pre-existing condition. If you take him to the vet at the age of 1 year and learn that his itching is due to allergies, when you try to insure him at 18 months, you may find the insurance company will not cover the cost of allergy treatments for the rest of his life. Whoops!

Choose a plan with deductibles and co-insurance amounts that work best for you. Fortunately, deductibles and co-insurance choices are pretty standard across the industry. When you sign up, you can fiddle with the choices to find a premium you like (it’s not a lot of difference, but it may add up over the course of your dog’s lifetime).There’s no right or wrong here, just keep in mind that you’ll pay a lot more out of pocket if your co-insurance is 70/30% and your dog needs surgery versus 90/10%. (A $5,000 surgery would cost you $1,500 out of pocket at the 70/30 and $500 of you chose the 90/10.)Embrace offers an interesting vanishing deductible option, which could save you money if your dog stays healthy long enough. It resets once there’s a claim.Trupanion offers a lifetime deductible, which means you pay the deductible for each new illness, not every year for the same illness. In other words, if your dog gets cancer and requires treatment for a year or two, you’re only paying the deductible for that particular illness once. This is a risk management decision, too. If your dog contracts four different illnesses in a year, you’re paying four deductibles that year.

Don’t buy a plan with an annual limit. You can save money on your premium by choosing an annual limit on what the insurance will reimburse – the total amount the company will pay for your dog in one year. Many experts state there’s no problem choosing a figure, as most dogs do not reach those limits. That may be true, but what if a cancer diagnosis comes along and the surgery and therapy put you over your limit? And it’s only July. The rest of the treatments are all on you.We recommend that you choose only companies offering unlimited coverage. Save money with deductibles and co-insurances, and by declining add-on riders you don’t really need.

Only buy the riders that you need. Preventive care is not what pet insurance was designed to do. Yes, human medicine covers some preventive care, like colon-cancer screenings, because it’s cheaper in the long run than treating the disease.But the preventive care offered by most pet insurance companies is not the same. It’s just paying in advance for routine things your dog may or may not need. And the reimbursement amounts are often small and limited: $15 for a rabies shot. $15 for a routine urinalysis (the last urinalysis I paid for was over $85, without the vet office fee).Another company offers $50 for flea/tick control for the year. Last time I looked, that costs $10 to $15 a month, so the company reimburses less than half of it. If you will use all the covered preventive care benefits, well, OK.

Decide whether you want a plan that covers the cost of office visits. A few companies do not cover the fee for the veterinarian seeing your dog. That’s your cost and the average office fee is $50 to $75. It is a way for the insurance company to save a few dollars and pass along a lower premium, which may be helpful. There’s no right or wrong here. It’s the calculated risk thing. For me, an occasional veterinary visit is an expected part of owning a dog, just like food, so I accept that risk to get the lower premium.
We don’t recommend low-cost “accident only” policies. This type of policy is better than nothing, but the odds are more likely that your dog will become ill than get hit by a car, if you’re a responsible owner. They are far less expensive than injury-and-illness plans; just know what you’re getting.
We like plans that cover complementary and alternative medicine. Frankly, this should be included in your basic policy – at least the widely accepted therapies like acupuncture, laser treatment, and chiropractic. On the other hand, if you don’t believe in these modalities, then it’s a way to save some money because a few insurers still offer them as add-on riders.
Look for “member” discounts. You can get discounts for multiple pets, being a veteran, a AAA member, and many other types of things.
Avoid insurers that reimburse on a “usual and customary” fee scale. You want insurance that considers the actual cost of the veterinary bill you receive when calculating their payment. Not that long ago, many companies listed a maximum amount that they would pay for any particular procedure. Only a few use that now, but if you see one, we suggest you keep looking.
Don’t buy policies with a per-incident deductible. With a per-incident deductible, you pay the first $250 (if that’s your chosen deductible amount) of every veterinary interaction. Most policies now offer an annual deductible, so you pay the first $250 bill for the year.

Discount Programs

There are programs, like Pet Assure, that offer an immediate percentage discount on everything, provided you go to their participating group of veterinarians, which may leave you with a small number of choices. You pay the company a monthly fee, which can vary widely from $10 to $30 a month or more, and they send you a card to show at the clinic. There are similar programs out there for things like dentistry for humans. If your veterinarian is participating, you get the percentage off your bill. But be aware that if your dog is referred out to another veterinarian, like a specialist, you may be paying the whole bill.

Years ago, you could sometimes negotiate a reduced rate with veterinarians, back in the days of the one-doctor-owned veterinary clinic. These places are scarce, and most clinics have multiple veterinarian associates who are employees and cannot negotiate fees. Plus, many veterinary clinics are being bought by large corporations – so the owner isn’t even a single one person – and it’s easy to understand why insurance is a necessity.

Making a Decision on the Best Dog Health Insurance

There’s no right or wrong here, and chances are good that you can adjust your policy when you renew it if you think that maybe you should have included the preventive/wellness rider or used a higher deductible. Whatever you decide, be sure your policy covers accidents, illness, and prescriptions. For us, that’s the minimum. Riders like preventive care are gravy. Most people still opt for the $250 deductible, 80/20 insurance plan. It’s the middle range of that “premium versus out-of-pocket expenses” decision.

Insure your dog as soon as possible, and be sure you adhere to your obligations in that contract, such as core vaccines and annual visits. And, finally, once your dog is insured, file your claims quickly. Some policies have very lenient time limits for filing, but the wisest course of action is to get it done immediately. If questions or concerns arise, everyone involved will have the case fresh in their minds.

WDJ’s Top Pet Health Insurance Companies

From the 38 companies that belong to the North American Pet Health Insurance Association (NAPHIA), we’ve selected 17 that meet our basic criteria for a useful insurer: They all cover accidents, illness, and prescriptions and don’t use tricky language to obfuscate any weaknesses. This chart compares the most important variables in pet insurance policies, to help you reject companies that don’t offer what you need, so you can focus on the companies that offer what you want.

Insurance/ Website	Wellness Rider	Exam Covered	Complementary Treatment	Annual Limits	Waiting Periods
24Petwatch 24petwatch.com	Yes	Yes	Yes	$2,500 to $7,000	14 days
AKC akcpetinsurance.com	Yes	Rider	Yes	$2,500 to unlimited	2 days accident, 14 days illnesses, 180 days cruciate ligament, 180 days IVDD
ASPCA aspcapetinsurance.com	Yes	Yes	As defined by American Association of Rehabilitation Veterinarians	$5,000 to unlimited	14 days
Embrace embracepetinsurance.com	No	Yes	Yes	$5,000 to unlimited	2 days for accidents, 14 days; up to six months for orthopedic
Fetch fetchpet.com	No	Yes	Yes	Unlimited	15 days; up to six months for knees/hips injuries
Figo figopetinsurance.com	Yes	Rider	Yes	$5,000 to unlimited	1 day accidents, 14 days for illnesses, and 6 months for orthopedic
Hartville Pet Insurance hartvillepetinsurance.com	Rider	Yes	Yes	$5,000 to unlimited	14 days
Healthy Paws healthypawspetinsurance.com	No	No	Yes	Unlimited	15 days
Lemonade lemonade.com/pet	Yes	Rider	Rider	Unlimited	2 days for accidents, 14 days for illnesses, and 6 months for cruciate ligament
ManyPets manypets.com	Yes	Yes	Yes	Unlimited	15 days
MetLife metlifepetinsurance.com	Yes	Yes	Yes	$2,000 to $10,000	Zero days accident, 14 days illness
Nationwide petinsurance.com	Rider	Yes	Varies with plan	Varies to unlimited	14 days
Pets Best petsbest.com	Yes	Varies with plan	Rider	$2,500 to unlimited	3 days for accidents, 14 days for illnesses, and 6 months for cruciate ligament
Pumpkin pumpkin.care	No	Yes	Rider	$10,000 to unlimited	14 days
Spot spotpetins.com	Yes	Yes	Yes	Unlimited	14 days
Trupanion trupanion.com	No	No	Rider	Unlimited	5 days accidents, 30 days illness
Wagmo wagmo.io	Yes	Yes	Yes	$10,000 per incident limit; $100,000 lifetime limit	15 days, 30 days cancer, 6 months for cruciate ligament

Overwhelmed? Consider Using a Pet Insurance Broker

Pet insurance brokers, such as Pawlicy Advisor (pawlicy.com), can help you navigate your many options. Just like your local independent insurance agent, these companies work with multiple major insurers and help you navigate all the tricks, traps, and benefits available. They are paid by the insurance company, so it doesn’t cost you anything more, but they can be a great advocate for you if you have a problem. They want to keep your business. They should be able to help you with any exclusions or requirements you highlighted in the sample policies you download.

The Struggle Is Real: Puppies Abound

Blog

By

Nancy Kerns

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February 7, 2023

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husky puppy and mom — What steps should you take when you're left with a stray and her puppies?

Here’s an actual email exchange I just had with a young man who went to high school with my son:

Hi Nancy,

First off, sorry for the out-of-nowhere email 🙂 I’m a high school friend of [E, your son] and a close friend of [S, your son’s friend, who adopted a dog from your local shelter with your help about two years ago]. S passed along your email address.

I recently had the good luck of a stray Husky giving birth to puppies in my front yard. They’re 8 weeks along now and ready to find forever homes, but I haven’t had luck in my social network and worry about passing them off to a shelter. I’ve heard you’re well connected in this area – any suggestions on where/how to start? Many thanks in advance!

– T.S.

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Hey T,

First, good on you for taking in the mom and raising the babies. How many are there?

I understand your reluctance to consider a shelter for placing the puppies, but from my view, often a shelter is the best place for puppies, because they will be vaccinated and microchipped, but most importantly, receive spay/neuter surgery before getting placed in a home. Most shelters today can get all that done for only about $100- $200 per puppy, whereas, when an individual takes them home and makes their own appointment for the same surgery, they will most likely be told they need to wait 6 months to a year, and then charged anywhere from $200 for a male to be neutered to up to $600 (or more) for females for spay surgery. (The bigger the dog, the more likely the owner will be told to wait before surgery, and the price gets quoted on the dog’s weight). What this often means is that dogs who are given away rarely get spayed or neutered; people who take home a “free” pup balk at that cost, and then, 7 months or a year later, guess what? More “free puppies”!

Most shelters today hire vets (or have one on staff) who can do many more surgeries in a day than a vet in a mixed practice can do, and at a much lower cost. It’s also state law in California that all dogs and cats must be spayed/neutered before adoption, so shelters have to find a way to make that happen.

Shelters also screen their applicants, making sure that people have fenced yards or other basics.

The big problem is, ALL of the west coast shelters are struggling with an overabundance of Huskies and Husky-mixes at the moment. Huskies are notoriously high-energy dogs – there is a reason they are the chosen breed to pull sleds! – and their coats require owners who are committed to living with a lot of loose dog hair floating around their homes and cars. As you now know, they are among the cutest puppies ever, but they grow into very smart dogs who are motivated to MOVE and RUN and CHEW! They work overtime as adolescents to have fun – which often translates into some of the highest rates of “owner-surrenders” back to shelters. Many people can’t handle their energy and struggle to keep them exercised, and they turn into champion escapees, climbing fences, chewing their way through gates, and digging under barriers of all kinds – which is probably how you found the mama on your lawn. But what this means is, you might have trouble finding a shelter that will take them, because they might already have a number of untrained, unruly adolescent and adult Huskies they are trying to find homes for.

On the other hand, shelters know that it’s far better for the community to spay/neuter puppies and get them placed in screened homes than to allow them to be given away and likely not get neutered. And puppies tend to get adopted more quickly than adolescents or adults — so if you can find a shelter that WILL take them, that would be ideal (in my view). However, many shelters are so full right now that they are not taking “owner-surrendered” dogs. (My local shelter is not taking dogs from owners right now; they barely have enough room for all the strays that their officers are picking up.)

Less ideal, from your view, is that if you can find a shelter who will take them, the shelter is likely to charge a fee for “owner-surrendered” dogs; it helps defray the cost of those vaccines, microchips, and spay/neuter surgery, not to mention the highly possible cost of having to keep them for weeks and weeks before they get adopted. (Why “weeks and weeks”? Most shelters have perennial cases of “kennel cough” that puppies are likely to catch upon admittance, which means they will be held back from the public for at least a week and sometimes as much as three weeks while being treated for their runny, snotty noses and deep coughs, which can sometimes turn into a more serious illness, especially in a shelter setting. This is rarely fatal, but the pups will be growing older and larger while waiting to recover from their cough; no one wants to take home a puppy with a scary cough!)

I know they aren’t “your” dogs — so why should you have to pay an “owner-surrender” fee? Well, in your case it’s true – you were being a good Samaritan – but you should know that “we found these puppies” is what 99% of people who bring puppies to shelters for surrendering say. I’ve heard, “I came home from work and heard puppies under my deck, the mom had them under there, and I’ve never seen her before!” and “We found them all dumped by our mailbox! (or “in a ditch by the side of the road”) more times than I can count. And the fact is, the shelter will be spending more on each pup then they get back in adoption fees – that’s why they are constantly fund-raising – and even a fairly stiff owner-surrender fee often barely covers the cost of caring for each pup.

I’m not sure what town you’re in, but most of the Bay area shelters are pretty darn reputable, and if you can find one that will agree to take them, that might be your best bet, and ultimately what’s best for them. You can also ask any shelter you call if they know of any rescue groups who might take puppies. Rescue groups generally take on only as many dogs as they can afford to care for and place; they don’t have the burden of having to take in all the strays of municipal shelters.

But if you can’t find one, you’re back at square one: Marketing on social media to friends and family and their friends and family. Your cute pics will help – as will any vaccinations you’ve obtained for them. Make your photo albums shareable, and try to get them placed ASAP, because they rapidly lose their adorableness as they approach 3 and 4 months, and are missing out on puppy socialization and bonding with their new families.

Sorry if this sounds kind of discouraging. You are the second person in two weeks to ask me this same question – and my own local shelter (where I volunteer) is so full, they’ve been waiving all adoption fees, trying to get dogs and puppies placed at a faster rate than more keep coming in. The staff is exhausted! They’ve been DROWNING in puppies – most likely because since COVID, many vets have had long waiting times for appointments, and dogs have been getting pregnant before people knew they COULD get pregnant. And we’re several canine generations into that cycle at this point.

Good luck — and again, thanks for taking this on. I know it’s a burden!

NK

Pedialyte for Dogs

Health

By

Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM

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February 7, 2023

0

dog panting with tongue out — When dogs get hot, their tongue naturally gets longer and wider to maximize their ability to cool themselves. This dog’s tongue indicates he needs shade or air conditioning, water, and rest before he plays again. Credit: Alphotographic | Getty Images

A dog’s electrolyte losses from playing hard on a hot day are minimal, and the best thing to give that dog for dehydration is plain water. But many pet owners reach for products like Pedialyte, hoping to do “better.” Dogs can have Pedialyte, but that doesn’t mean it’s the best choice for them.

Pedialyte is an over-the-counter supplement formulated for infants, children, and adult humans who suffer from vomiting or diarrhea. It is designed to hydrate and “provide essential nutrients” to humans. Ingredients include water, sugar (dextrose), and electrolytes in the form of salts (sodium, chloride, potassium, citrate).

Dogs prevent overheating and maintain normal body temperature primarily through panting.

This process does cause water loss, and if the water is not replaced, dehydration can result. Unlike humans, however, who can sweat anywhere there is skin, dogs only have sweat glands on their paw pads, and they’re largely inefficient. Thus, in dogs, the loss of body heat and water and electrolytes through sweating is minimal.

So, yes, you can give Pedialyte (or dilute Pedialyte) to a healthy dog on a warm day to prevent dehydration. But, since the dog doesn’t need the electrolytes in Pedialyte, they are filtered out by the kidneys and end up in the dog’s urine. Note: Because of Pedialyte’s high salt content, you should use caution giving Pedialyte to dogs with heart or kidney diseases, as sodium restriction is often part of managing these conditions. In addition, the level of sugar in Pedialyte is not appropriate for dogs.

True electrolyte losses can occur in a dog when he suffers from vomiting or diarrhea.

If your dog cannot keep food or fluids down, or if symptoms are severe or persist beyond a single bout, have your dog evaluated by a veterinarian rather than administering Pedialyte. If your veterinarian does recommend an electrolyte replacement, chances are good he or she will suggest a formula for dogs.

How to Transition Dog Food

Food

By

Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM

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February 5, 2023

0

Do you know how to transition dog food without making your dog sick. — A gradual transition from one dog food to another helps avoid digestive upset and will help your dog accept the new food more readily. Some dogs are a little picky. Credit: WestEnd61 | Getty Images

How to switch dog food depends a bit on what you’re switching to or from. For example, if your dog suffers from a simple digestive upset with vomiting and/or diarrhea, your veterinarian may recommend that you feed a bland diet for a few days—without a transition period.

But, if you’ve simply decided to change his everyday dog food to a different one, it’s best to transition it over the course of a week or so. If you switch your dog’s food without transitioning, he may experience a gastrointestinal (GI) tract upset in the form of vomiting, diarrhea, and an understandable lack of appetite.

Slow Transition

A gradual switch is recommended by most veterinarians when you’re changing dog food for any reason (except bland, as stated). That said, if your dog is used to a constant variety of dog food, as has been recommended by Whole Dog Journal, he may not require a transition. Many dogs can eat a wide variety of ingredients and foods and will tolerate a rotational diet, provided the protein and fat levels of the foods you’re choosing are similar.

“Often there are more problems from a GI perspective if the nutrient composition changes a lot, let’s say a 10% fat diet and then they try a 20% diet,” says Joseph Wakshlag DVM, professor in the department of clinical sciences at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine in the Cornell DogWatch newsletter. Switching abruptly to a richer diet can cause problems, particularly diarrhea. And dogs with more sensitive stomachs are even more likely to experience GI upset when their diet is changed abruptly.

The general veterinary recommendation is that, if your dog has been eating the same food right along, and you are now transitioning from one regular maintenance diet to another for whatever reason, a week-long transition helps the GI microbiome adjust.

Start your transition before you run out of the old food and do 3 parts old to 1 part new for two to three days, then 50:50 for two to three days, then 3 parts new to 1 part old for two to three days. After that, you should be able to feed 100% new food. In this scenario, the transition period spans seven to 10 days (see chart).

Bland Diet Transition

A switch to a temporary bland diet, which is often recommended for dogs battling diarrhea and/or vomiting, does not require transition. These diets are always low in fat and easy to digest, allowing your dog’s GI tract to rest and heal. Once the dog’s symptoms have resolved, a gradual transition back to his regular food is recommended to avoid abruptly shocking the recovering gut lining with richer ingredients.

The first day you start the transition from the bland diet back to your dog’s normal food, make each meal 3 parts bland diet to 1 part regular diet. If there’s no return of symptoms, the next day make each meal a 50:50 mix of bland and regular. If so far so good, the third day each meal is 1 part bland to 3 parts regular. If all is still well, your dog can return to full regular feedings on the fourth day. Note: If your dog has a super sensitive stomach, follow the same idea, but make changes every two days instead of every day. In this case, it will be a full week before your dog is back to full regular feedings.

Dog Food Transition Chart

This chart shows a one-week course of gradually transitioning your dog’s food to a new variety.

Day	Percentage Old Food	Percentage New Food	Comments
1	75%	25%
2	75%	25%
3	75%	25%	If he’s doing well, you can move to two days of 50-50 on this day.
4	50%	50%
5	50%	50%	If he shows any signs of difficulty, like loose stools, do three days of 50-50.
6	25%	75%
7	25%	75%	Continue for another day or two, if needed.

What To Do If Loose Dog Is Coming At You and Your Dog

Behavior

By

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA

-

February 4, 2023

2

loose off leash dog — When an off-leash dog is racing toward you and your dog, it’s hard to know that dog’s intent. Is it attacking? Just super playful? To protect yourself and your dog, you can’t always wait and give such a dog the benefit of the doubt – it could be disastrous! You and your dog stand the best chance of coming out unscathed if you plan for, visualize, and practice the things you’d do in this emergency situation. © dageldog | Getty Images

Most of us who walk with our dogs dread this scenario more than almost any other: You’re walking on the sidewalk with your well-behaved, beloved canine companion, when suddenly you see an off-leash dog rapidly approaching, no human in sight. It’s even worse if the approaching dog appears aggressive, with his hackles raised, clear tension in his body, and giving you and your dog a hard stare. What should you do?

First and most importantly, keep your cool. If you panic, you’ll stress your dog as well, and make an aggressive encounter even more likely. Breathe.

Then quickly review the options that you’ve prepared for in case of a loose-dog event. Select the most promising one for the current circumstances, and take appropriate action. Oh, you haven’t already created an action plan? Time to do so!

A Loose Dog Action Plan

Depending on your dog and the circumstances you have a variety of options to choose from to keep the two of you safe from the approaching off-leash dog:

Safe haven. This is especially useful if you regularly walk the same route(s). As you walk, scope out possible escape routes for future reference, such as fenced yards with a handy not-locked gate, dog-friendly places of business, or enclosed storage areas with accessible gates.

If you’re near one of these havens, just calmly step into it and close the gate behind you, shutting the loose dog out. (If it’s a fenced yard, make sure there’s no loose dog in the yard first!) Now wait for the other dog to get bored and go away, or for his human to catch up with him. Alternatively, pull out your cell phone and call Animal Control!

If there are no handy safe spaces, you may be able to duck behind a nearby vehicle (or hop up in the back of a convenient pickup truck with your dog). If the loose dog isn’t intent on mayhem, putting yourselves out of view or out of reach might be enough to convince him to continue on his way. And, being in the bed of a truck gives you a height advantage, making it easier to fight him off if necessary.

Have some treats! If the approaching dog is just a nuisance and not really intent on mayhem, you might toss several handfuls of your always-handy high-value treats and make the escape with your dog while the loose dog scarfs up the windfall. Your “Walk Away” cue is useful here (see “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” Sept. 2018.)
Use deterrents. While I never advocate using aversives in your training program, I fully support their use in emergencies. If you regularly walk your dog in places where you might encounter loose dogs, be ready to:
Stomp and yell. A fair number of dogs will turn tail and run if you flap your arms and stomp your feet at them and assertively, loudly, and repeatedly say “Go home!!” (Note: If you plan to do things that have the potential to scare your own dog, you’ll need to do advance prep work with her – such as counter-conditioning – so she anticipates yummy treats and doesn’t get frightened when you act weird.)
Use a chemical repellent spray. “SprayShield,” (a strong citronella spray formerly known as Direct Stop) and Halt! Dog Repellent and Red Sabre (both made with capsaicin pepper spray) are three dog-attack defense products. They’re not appropriate for regular training, but they can save the day in an emergency. While all contain chemicals that irritate eyes, capsaicin sprays are definitely more irritating with more potential to damage eyes. Also, you may get spray in your own and your dog’s eyes, and in some cases the spray may only anger the approaching dog more.
Use something to physically protect yourself. If you carry a walking stick, you can use it against any canine attackers. An umbrella will serve the same function as a stick, and you can startle an approaching dog by pushing the button to pop it open, then use the umbrella to shield your dog from view. Remember to condition your own dog to the umbrella popping open so she’s not frightened if/when you use it.
Use an air horn. A blast from a marine air horn is very loud and can be quite off-putting to a canine space-invader. It can also serve to alert other humans in the area that you need help. As with the “stomping and yelling” technique, make sure you counter-condition and desensitize your dog to it first.
Hide your dog (use body-blocking). You can be your dog’s shield. Teach her a “Get behind me!” cue, which means to step behind your legs and sit quietly, preferably without peeking out. Then block the other dog from contacting her.

If You Have a Small Dog

If you have a small dog, you may be tempted to pick her up to protect her from the approaching dog. This is generally not a good idea. Having shared my heart with several Pomeranians I understand the protective instinct and the willingness to do anything to keep her safe, but picking your dog up does two very counterproductive things: It fully occupies your hands, preventing you from engaging in other defensive actions, and it puts you at much greater risk as the approaching dog jumps up and attacks you in his efforts to get to your dog.

Instead of picking up your dog, I urge you to utilize any and all of the measures listed above to keep your small dog safe, and consider picking her up only as a very last resort.

Let the dogs meet. This is my least favorite action, and I don’t generally recommend it, since it puts your dog at significant risk. However, if you have a very dog-friendly dog, and the approaching dog is obviously soft, waggy, and affiliative, you could let it happen. If a fight does break out, you can try using deterrent spray to break it up and hope there’s another human nearby to help you untangle dogs.

Be Safe When an Off Leash Dog Approaches You

I’m a huge fan of “err on the side of caution.” We hope you never have to use them, but it’s smart to be armed with the tools and knowledge to protect yourself and your dog from loose dogs. Don’t be afraid to use them if or when the time comes!

How to Help Your Dog After an Attack

What if the worst happens? You’re approached by a loose dog, none of your protection strategies worked, and your dog is attacked. You manage to get the dogs separated and chase off the attacker, but your dog is injured – both physically, mentally, and emotionally.

Of course you’ll want to get immediate veterinary care for any wounds your dog has suffered and report the incident to Animal Control. But what about the mental and emotional injuries? If your dog wasn’t already dog-selective, she’s likely to be worried – and perhaps even defensive – about any unknown dogs now, perhaps even those she was previously friends with.

Take things slowly. If you have other dogs are home, do careful re-introductions when you bring her back from the vet. (See “How to Safely Introduce Your Dog to Other Dogs,” WDJ December 2020.) Hopefully she’ll recognize and be comfortable with her own canine family members, but until she’s fully healed you’ll need to be sure they don’t try to play with her and inadvertently cause pain from her injuries. If she’s wary even of her housemates, you’ll need to start your modification program right there at home.

Gradually bring her into the presence (on leash) of other dogs she’s familiar with and see how she acts. Then do the same with dogs who are new to her. If at any point in this process you see wariness, fear, or even aggressive/reactive behaviors that she didn’t show before, you’ll need to do behavior modification to restore her comfort level with other dogs.

Counter conditioning and Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) are both excellent protocols that can be useful for this – and you may want to engage the services of a qualified force-free behavior professional to help you help your dog through this challenge. For more information, see “Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization,” June 2012, and “Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) Can Improve Behavior,” December 2009.

Acupuncture for Dogs

By

Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM

-

February 3, 2023

5

senior dog receiving acupuncture — It’s common for dog owners to learn about acupuncture when their dogs are seniors and suffering from arthritis pain and a general loss of energy and vitality. Acupuncture advocates appreciate the physical and emotional, energetic lift their dogs experience from acupuncture. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Acupuncture can be a useful tool for managing pain in dogs with osteoarthritis and certain neurologic and musculoskeletal disorders, improving their comfort and quality of life. It’s particularly effective when used as a complementary therapy – in combination with other tools and modalities such as analgesics (pain medications), laser therapy, massage, and physical therapy.

Acupuncture originated around 100 BC as an important tool used by practitioners of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). It is still used today for human and veterinary medicine, guided by the original principles of TCM, as well as others who find it to be effective for reasons other than those explained in TCM.

TCM Explanation of Acupuncture for Dogs

Traditional acupuncture is considered an alternative medical modality; the explanations that direct its use do not correlate with modern evidence-based medical practice.

In TCM, everything in nature (including humans and animals) contains a life force energy known as Chi (sometimes spelled as “qi” but always pronounced as “Chee”). Chi is said to travel throughout the body via a system of meridians or pathways. Meridians are not discernible structures in the body like blood vessels or nerves; they are intangible pathways through which the vital life energy flows. The meridians for dogs, like humans, are named and mapped, and each has an influence on certain organs and physiological functions in the body.

Chi has two polarities, or opposites, called Yin and Yang. A healthy and harmonious body has a proper balance of Yin and Yang. Think of the polarities on the ends of a battery. One end of the battery is the positive terminal and the other end is the negative terminal. When you insert the battery into a device, like the remote control for your television, electricity flows from the positive terminal through the circuits of the remote to the negative terminal. The flow of electricity is constant and balanced, much like Yin and Yang in a healthy dog or human.

In TCM, illness and pain is said to result from an imbalance between Yin and Yang. The flow of Chi through a particular meridian may become congested, blocked, or stagnated. This might lead to more Yin and less Yang in that meridian.

Acupuncture is the insertion of very fine needles into the skin to stimulate specific locations (called acupoints) along the obstructed meridian/s to allow Chi to once again flow freely and restore balance between Yin and Yang. Acupuncturists learn and memorize the name and influence of each acupoint that are present on the 12 meridians in the body, in order to both treat specific illnesses and injuries, and to promote wellness and prevent illness.

Canine Acupuncture Techniques

In classic acupuncture, very fine needles are inserted into acupoints that are associated with certain health conditions and are left in place for 10 to 30 minutes during the therapy session; this is known as dry needling. Other forms of acupuncture include:

Electroacupuncture, an enhanced form of dry needling in which a low electrical current is applied between acupuncture needles.
Aqua-acupuncture, the injection of very small amounts of sterile fluid into acupoints.
Moxibustion, the application of heat to acupoints by burning small cones of dried herbs (moxa) near acupuncture needles.
Laser acupuncture, the use of a low-intensity laser to stimulate acupoints. Laser acupuncture may be a good modality for dogs that do not tolerate the insertion of needles.

What To Expect During a Veterinary Acupuncture Visit

In a visit to a veterinarian who practices conventional Western medicine, the vet will ask you questions about your dog’s appetite, drinking habits, and energy level. She’ll want to know what you feed your dog, and whether her elimination habits are regular and normal. The vet will usually ask these questions while performing a physical examination of your dog, looking into her eyes, ears, and mouth, palpating her abdomen, and listening to her heart and lungs.

Veterinary acupuncturists will ask some of the same questions – but add others that might seem odd to you. For example, they might want to know whether your dog prefers to sleep in warm or cool places, and whether she prefers a hard bed or a soft one. And when they perform their physical examination of your dog, they will do things that conventional medical practitioners do not, such as feeling (not just counting) the strength and speed of your dog’s pulse in a variety of locations, especially the femoral artery (inside each of the dog’s hind legs near the groin), and looking at your dog’s tongue.

dog sleeping during acupuncture — Despite his usual anxiety about veterinary appointments, senior dog Otto falls fast asleep within minutes of having acupuncture needles in a number of locations on his body. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Using the additional information about your dog’s health gathered by these alternative diagnostics, veterinary acupuncturists decide where your dog’s Chi is blocked or stuck, and which acupoints they need to stimulate in order to restore the healthy flow of Chi.

Usually, the acupuncturist will insert needles in as few as six and as many as 30 locations on your dog. Dogs nearly always grow very calm as the effect of the treatment takes hold, and many dogs sleep for the 20 or so minutes that the needles are left in position.

While positive effects may be seen as soon as the same or next day, generally acupuncturists recommend bringing the canine patient back for at least six or eight sessions of acupuncture, scheduled at least once or twice a week for a few weeks, and then at longer intervals.

Modern Medical Interpretation of Acupuncture

Western scientists have found no evidence to support the existence of acupuncture points or energy meridians in the body, and studies of the modality’s efficacy are generally inconclusive. However, there is enough anecdotal evidence to support its ability to produce improved outcomes in treated humans and animals that many practitioners use the modality without necessarily believing the TCM concepts underlying the practice.

Today, the increasingly popular term, “Western Medical Acupuncture,” indicates the complementary use of acupuncture with conventional medical diagnoses and treatment.

Modern scientists have searched for alternative explanations for the effectiveness of acupuncture, speculating that while they are not yet appreciable with existing diagnostic tools, acupoints and meridians do exist along key aspects of the neuromuscular system. Acupoints have been found to correlate with where nerves enter muscles, along superficial nerves and at nerve plexuses, and muscle/tendon junctions. And TCM maps of meridians – those pathways through which Chi flows – often follow the same pathways as peripheral nerves.

There is ample evidence, however, that the body responds in observable ways to the stimulation of acupoints; there is a release of endorphins and endogenous opioids that can have an analgesic (pain-relieving) effect. Blood flow to the area around the acupoints increases, bringing anti-inflammatory mediators (known as cytokines) to the region. This reduces inflammation and promotes healing.

Recent studies have shown that acupuncture can be an effective complement to conventional therapies for certain medical conditions. Treatment of musculoskeletal and osteoarthritis pain with acupuncture combined with physical therapy and analgesics may improve a dog’s comfort and mobility more than just analgesics and physical therapy alone. And electroacupuncture may improve the outcomes for dogs with decreased or lost mobility due to intervertebral disc disease (IVDD).

How to Get Your Dog Started With Veterinary Acupuncture

If you are interested in adding acupuncture to your dog’s therapeutic plan for osteoarthritis, musculoskeletal pain, or IVDD, look for a veterinarian that is certified in veterinary acupuncture. Veterinarians certified in this field have undergone an intensive study in veterinary acupuncture and how to integrate it into Western medicine.

The International Veterinary Acupuncture Society maintains a directory of certified veterinary acupuncturists on their website at ivas.org/vets/. The American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture also maintains a directory on their website at aava.org.

Vitamins for Senior Dogs

By

Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM

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February 2, 2023

2

vitamins for senior dogs — Supplements like fish oil can help keep your senior dog moving better and even thinking better, so you can enjoy many more playful years together. Credit adamkax | Getty Images

Not every senior dog needs every supplement. For example, dogs with any chronic eye condition or cataracts may benefit from OcuGlo, an eye supplement designed by a veterinary ophthalmologist. But if your older dog had normal vision, it’s a waste of money.

Joint supplements for senior dogs are an entirely different story, however. Virtually all senior dogs can benefit from joint supplements, and there plenty to choose among. The ingredients glucosamine, chondroitin, fish oil, and green-lipped mussel products have long histories of safe, effective use in dogs. They can help maintain, and in cases, even increase mobility. Look for joint supplements for dogs with these ingredients that have a National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) seal on them. The NASC membership ensures, among other things, that the products are monitored to be sure they include the ingredients on the label in the amounts listed.

Fish oil has the most research-supported evidence that it works. Fish oil is a major source of the omega 3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), which are shown to help preserve healthy joints and may minimize cognitive problems in older dogs.

Probiotics for Dogs

A good probiotic made for dogs can encourage a healthy gastrointestinal tract. Don’t use a human one as the microbiomes are different.

Stress Supplements for Dogs

Some senior dogs may do better with supplements for anxiety or stress. Melatonin can often help with sleep problems at night. Dog pheromone products such as Adaptil can also help older dogs who are struggling. For serious anxiety issues, discuss the problem with your veterinarian. There are anxiety medications that can help, too.

In general, remember that supplements may take time, like four to six weeks for most joint supplements, before any changes are noted. Always check with your veterinarian about compatibility between multiple supplements as well as supplements and any medications your dog is taking. Don’t overdo supplements. Too much of a “good thing” can be a bad.

Rat Poisoning and Dogs

Health

By

Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM

-

February 2, 2023

0

rat poison bait box — Tamper-proof bait boxes like this one on the outside of a building are meant to protect children or dogs from the rodent-killing poison inside – but bait can be carried out of the bait box and dropped by a rat or mouse. Dogs who find and eat the bait or rodents who have died from eating it can get sick and die if their symptoms are not recognized and treated quickly. Photo by John Williams, Dreamstime.com

Home infestations by mice and rats cause problems for millions of humans – but the poisons that are frequently used to control these incursions are deadly for our dogs. If you use rodenticides – chemicals that are used to kill mice, rats, voles, and other small mammals after they ingest the chemical – or if rodents are a problem in your neighborhood (and a neighbor might be using rodenticides), you should learn the signs of rodenticide poisoning and know what life-saving treatment is necessary if your dog consumes some of these deadly chemicals.

Rodenticides are added to food that will appeal to the rodents and formed into blocks and pellets. These baits have an attractive odor and taste to encourage the target animal to ingest the chemical, leading to his demise.

Dogs typically ingest rat poison bait by chewing open a bait refill pouch or canister, chewing open a tamper-proof bait station, eating a bait that has been carried by a rat or mouse out of a bait station and then dropped, or eating a rodent that ingested rodenticide.

Rodenticides are regulated by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The EPA has mandated that all rodenticide baits used inside the home by consumers be placed in a single-use or refillable bait station. Bait stations must be tamper-resistant to minimize the risk of exposure to children and pets.

Rodenticide bait refills are sold to consumers in resealable pouches or tubs. Unfortunately, these containers are not tamper resistant and must be stored where children and pets do not have access to them.

Dogs find rodenticide baits attractive for the same reason mice and rats do: They smell interesting and taste delicious. And because dogs are mammals, just like mice and rats, the active ingredient in the bait has the same mechanism of action in our dogs that it does in rodents.

Types of Rat and Mouse Poison: Symptoms and Treatment for Rat Poisoning in Dogs

There are three types of rodenticides available for purchase by consumers that can be lethal to our dogs: first-generation anticoagulants (warfarin, chlorophacinone, and diphacinone), bromethalin, and cholecaliferol (vitamin D3).

Anticoagulant rodenticides

These work by inhibiting an enzyme that activates vitamin K (see sidebar). In an animal who has eaten this poison, the initial clinical signs include bruising and petechia (red pinpoint hemorrhages, or dots, on the skin).

Without treatment, these clinical signs progress to coughing, vomiting, urinating and pooping blood, followed by uncontrolled internal bleeding and death. Since a dog’s body typically contains a small storage of activated vitamin K, it can take 36 to 72 hours following ingestion of an anticoagulant rodenticide to show clinical signs.

Treatment for dogs who are not showing clinical signs of anticoagulant rodenticide ingestion is straightforward. Your veterinarian will prescribe a course of vitamin K1 to be given for up to 30 days. The length of treatment depends on which anticoagulant was present in the bait. If your dog is showing signs of uncontrolled bleeding, he will need to be hospitalized to receive one or more blood transfusions and injections of vitamin K1.

Bromethalin

This is a neurotoxin that can cause tremors, seizures, and paralysis that progress to coma followed by death. Ingesting high doses of this rodenticide can cause clinical signs to appear within four to 18 hours of ingestion. Ingestion of lower doses may take one to seven days for clinical signs to manifest.

Bromethalin is metabolized by the liver into metabolites that are more toxic than bromethalin. Treatment for ingestion of this poison includes giving one or more doses of activated charcoal to bind the chemical and its toxic metabolites. If more than one dose is required, or your dog is showing neurologic signs, your veterinarian may recommend hospitalization of your dog to monitor and treat for seizures, tremors, and cerebral edema.

Cholecalciferol

This is better known as vitamin D3, an essential vitamin that helps maintain calcium and phosphorus balance in the body. Dogs lack the ability to synthesize vitamin D3 from exposure to sunlight (as humans do). Their daily requirement for vitamin D3 is met in the food they eat.

Cholecalciferol rodenticides deliver a toxic dose of vitamin D3. An overdose of vitamin D3 causes an increase in the calcium levels in your dog’s blood. This leads to mineralization of their internal organs and acute kidney injury. Even ingesting small amounts of bait can cause clinical signs. A toxic dose of cholecalciferol for a 50-pound dog is just one half of a one-ounce bait block.

Treatment for cholecalciferol ingestion includes giving one or more doses of activated charcoal and monitoring your dog’s kidney values and calcium and phosphorus levels once a day for three days post-exposure. Your veterinarian may recommend hospitalizing your dog for treatment of acute kidney injury if any of these values start to increase and become abnormal. If your dog starts to drink more water and urinate more and starts to vomit and not eat, then hospitalizing and treating for acute kidney injury may also be recommended.

Cholecaliferol can persist in your dog’s body for weeks following ingestion. If your dog becomes clinical for cholecalciferol toxicity, he may require weekly monitoring of his kidney values and calcium and phosphorus levels for three or more weeks. Dogs that have been hospitalized and treated for cholecalciferol toxicity can suffer a relapse of elevated calcium in the first few days following discharge from the hospital and need to be closely monitored.

Treatment for unknown poisons

Other rodenticides can be used by commercial pest exterminators or in agricultural situations. These include second-generation anticoagulants (brodifacoum, bromadiolone, difenacoum, difethialone), strychnine, and phosphide rodenticides. Second-generation anticoagulants are more potent than their first-generation cousins but the antidote is the same: administration of vitamin K1.

Bait stations are not required for baits located indoors where no children or pets have access (attics, for example) or that are buried below ground; unfortunately, baits that are packaged in easily chewed pouches or trays are all too often placed in cabinets or drawers that kids or pets find their way into.

The active ingredient of rodenticide bait cannot be determined by the bait size, shape, or color. If your dog ingests rodenticide bait and you do not know the active ingredient, then your veterinarian will need to treat for all three of the most commonly used residential rodenticides: anticoagulants, bromethalin, and cholecalciferol. Treating for one type of rodenticide exposure can be costly, but treating for all three types can be quite expensive!

Vitamin K1 and anticoagulant rodenticide toxicity

Vitamin K got its name from the German word “koagulation,” meaning to turn a liquid (like blood) into a solid or semi-solid (like a blood clot). Your dog’s liver (and yours, too!) produces clotting factors that are necessary to stop bleeding in the body. The liver needs activated vitamin K to make these clotting factors.

The process of making clotting factors oxidizes (deactivates) vitamin K. An enzyme called “vitamin K epoxide reductase” reduces (activates) vitamin K so that it can once again help to make clotting factors. Chemistry buffs will recognize this as an example of a reduction-oxidation, or redox, reaction.

Anticoagulant rodenticides inhibit this enzyme, leaving your dog with a whole lot of deactivated vitamin K that cannot be reactivated. That’s why your veterinarian will prescribe vitamin K1 to give twice a day; this is the activated form of vitamin K that your dog’s body needs to produce clotting factors.

How to manage a rodent infestation when you have pets

There are other methods for managing rodent home invasions, including sealing entry points in your home and the use of live capture traps. If you feel that you must use rodenticides in your home:

Use only tamper-resistant bait stations as required by the EPA.
Place bait stations only where your dog does not have access.
Secure bait refills in a locked cabinet.
Keep a binder containing information about all of the toxic products you use in your home. Add the rodenticide packaging information to this binder. If your dog ingests rodenticide bait, bring the packaging with you and your dog to the veterinary hospital.

Following these steps when using rodenticides will help to keep your family safe and minimize the risk of accidental exposure.

Dog Songs and Singing to Your Dog

Blog

By

Nancy Kerns

-

February 1, 2023

34

Singing to a dog. — Photo credit Catherine Falls Commercial, Getty Images

How many of you sing to your dogs when you’re alone together? I sure do. I sing to my dogs when we’re in the car, when we’re hiking together, and when I’m fixing their meals. The best songs are ones about dogs, or with dogs prominently mentioned in the lyrics.

One song from my childhood that I absolutely love to sing is “Blue” by Peter, Paul, and Mary, a folk trio that had a number of hits in the 1960s. They sang the song as a joke, where they’d change the tempo and words of the song. But the way they always started the song was pretty:

I’ve got a dog and his name is Blue
I’ve got a dog and his name is Blue
I’ve got a dog and his name is Blue,
I betcha five dollars he’s a good dog, too
Singing, ‘Here, old Blue, you’re a good dog, you.
Old Blue comes when I blow my horn
Old Blue comes when I blow my horn
Old Blue come a’running through the yellow corn,
Old Blue come a’running when I blow my horn
Singing, ‘Here, old Blue, you’re a good dog, you.

That song may or may not have been based on an old folk tune, recorded by Pete Seeger, Old Blue. If you have a dog who recently passed, or is close to the end of life, don’t try to listen to this song unless you are ready to cry buckets.

A recent favorite is Buck Up by Carsie Blanton, a song that’s not about a dog, but the wisdom imparted in the song’s lyrics comes from the artist’s dog, who responds to the artist’s world-weary angst with the advice to:

Buck up, baby, come on, sic ‘em
Make ‘em laugh if you can’t lick ‘em
Keep on shinin’, like you know you should
Keep on shining, that’s the way you’ll get ‘em good!

My other favorites for singing to the dogs include:

I Love My Dog, by Cat Stevens

I Wanna Be a Dawg, by Dawg Yawp

I Want My Dog to Live Longer, by Curtis Salgado & Alan Hager

My Dog & Me, by John Hiatt

And of course, no list of dog songs would be complete without the classic, Who Let the Dogs Out, by Baha Men.

Do you have a favorite dog song, or song you sing to you dog? Please share! (Our website doesn’t allow links in the comments, but list the artist name and song, so we can Google them!)

Dew Claw Removal: Are Dew Claws Neccessary?

Care

By

Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM

-

February 1, 2023

1

Dew claw removal is controversial. Some dew claws are necessary. Others serve no purpose other tan to be damaged. — This Great Dane’s front dewclaws seem too high off the ground to ever come into contact with the ground – but if you saw photos of the same dog running and/or turning, you’d see that the claws do come into play during these activities. Photo by Nancy Kerns

A dog’s front dew claws are analogous to your thumbs. But people often have a dog’s dew claws surgically removed – so, you may wonder is dew claw removal needed? Do dew claws do anything?

The best answer to this question is… sometimes. The importance of dew claws to an individual dog depends mostly on the dog’s lifestyle and activities – and who you talk to. Some experts take dew claw removal seriously, reminding owners that it is a surgical amputation; others make dew claw removal sound no more harmful than trimming a dog’s nails. Who should you believe? Should you care whether or not your dog has dew claws?

If the only exercise your dog gets is controlled walks at the

dog doing an agility tunnel — Dogs who participate in sports that require speed and agility definitely benefit from having front dewclaws for stabilizing the foot during turns and landing from jumps. Photo by Nancy Kerns

end of a six-foot leash, the controversy over dew claw removal is somewhat immaterial. If, however, your dog engages in athletic activities that involve hunting, running at speed or making sudden, tight turns and changes of direction, the topic is far more consequential. These activities include not only formal events like agility, flyball, lure coursing, fast CAT (coursing ability test), disc dog sports, hunting, and tracking, but also fun, informal athletic activities like running off-leash, hiking, playing with other dogs, and chasing balls.

What Are Dew Claws and What Do They Do?

For a long time, experts believed that dew claws served no purpose. They’re located higher up on the limb than the other toes and make no contact with the ground when the dog is standing. As such, it became routine to remove the dew claws to prevent injuries that dogs sometimes suffer when the dew claw catches on vegetation as the dog runs, lands from jumps, and turns. The thought was, “If the dew claws don’t have a function, we might as well get rid of them so that they can never become a problem for the dog.”

This sounds practical, but if you ask veterinarians how often they see dew claw injuries, they will say hardly ever – or certainly no more frequently than injuries to the other toes. This prompts the question, “If the dew claws rarely present a problem, why put the dog or puppy through an unnecessary, painful procedure?”

However, if you ask hunting dog breeders or trainers, they will likely say that their dogs suffer dew claw injuries out in the field frequently enough to warrant surgical removal. Most hunting dog and retriever breeders have their puppies’ dew claws removed.

Labrador Retriever breeder/trainer Renee Adsitt-Pettey of Peak Performance Labradors in Chaumont, New York, explains: “We remove dew claws with the sole purpose of preventing torn dew claws out in the field.” When dogs have dew claws, she says, “We deal with fairly frequent dew claw injuries when hunting out of the boat, hunting through thin ice, and wooded marshes.”

Adsitt-Perry adds that dew claws, at least on her dogs, don’t seem to be as “tight” to the foreleg as they once were, which makes them generally more of a hassle than a help for her dogs.

In contrast, if you ask breeders, trainers, owners, and handlers of agility dogs, they will tell you they never remove dew claws on their canine athletes. Most agility competitors believe strongly that the dogs’ dew claws play an important role in helping these athletes safely perform tight turns at speed, help stabilize the limb when the paw contacts the ground after jumps and during turns, and help prevent both acute injuries and the development of chronic arthritis in agility dogs.

How Bad is Dew Claw Removal?

All dogs are born with front dew claws. (If your dog has no front dew claws it is likely they were removed soon after birth.)

There is more variability in hind dew claws. Hind dew claws are absent in most dogs. In certain breeds, however, hind dew claws are not only present, but are of impressive size, sometimes double, and are considered functionally important to the breed’s intended purpose (see, “Dog Breeds with Double Dew Claws”).

dewclaw scars — The scars from having their dewclaws removed are visible on only some dogs (like this one), but if you palpate the area, you can usually feel a small pit where the dewclaw was removed. Photo by Nancy Kerns

However, on the hind legs, sometimes the dew claws are “attached” just as they are on the front legs – connected to the adjacent bone by a joint. In other cases, the hind dew claws have no underlying bony attachment at all; they are joined to the body only by skin. These are called “unattached” dew claws.

Because unattached dew claws are loose and floppy with no underlying connection, their functionality is questionable. This is in direct contrast to attached dew claws, whose functionality is a hot topic among dog breeders, trainers, and veterinarians.

The easiest time to remove dew claws is two to five days after birth. Virtually none will have bony attachments at that point so it is fairly simple to just snip them off at the base.

Some breeders do this themselves; however, it is best done by a veterinarian who can provide local anesthesia.

For control of bleeding, breeders may use styptic powder. Veterinarians will either place a dissolvable suture to close the wound or use electrocautery, which stops bleeding by mildly burning the tissue. High-end general veterinary practices and specialty practices may have laser surgery, which is the quickest, safest, least painful way to remove dew claws from newborn puppies.

Some dog owners request the removal of dew claws on their older puppies and/or adult dogs. Veterinarians will usually provide this service for puppies at the time they are spayed or neutered. In adult dogs it can be performed at any time.

With adult dogs, it’s relatively simple to remove unattached dew claws; however, it requires general anesthesia. An elliptical incision is made in the skin around the base of the nail, isolating and ligating any blood vessels, removing the nail, and suturing the skin. Most veterinarians will bandage the wounds for a week or so. Some will prescribe antibiotics to prevent infection as the nail is difficult to completely sterilize for surgery. All will send patients home with pain medication.

It’s more difficult to remove attached dew claws with adult dogs. This is an orthopedic amputation. The incision is bigger, the procedure takes longer, and there is more potential for post-operative pain.

If dew claw removal is not done properly, the nail may grow back in its entirety, or it may grow back as a misshapen stump. This may be unsightly, but it usually doesn’t cause problems for the dog.

Care For Your Dog's Dew Claws

broken dewclaw on dog — Photo © bgwalker | Getty Images

If your dog has dew claws, remember to pay close attention to trimming them as needed. They may grow faster than your dog’s other nails, as they don’t experience the same wear on the ground as the other nails. Long nails catch on vegetation and break more frequently than short nails (see photo). Also, sometimes dew claws grow in a curve. If allowed to grow too long your dog may suffer from a painful ingrown toenail.

Dew Claws Do Have a Purpose

So, do dogs need their dew claws? Little scientific research is available to support or refute the importance of dew claws in dogs. Most of the discussion is based on general principles of physics and anatomy and anecdotal experience.

The argument that dew claws have a function is supported by photos and videos of dogs

dewclaws on a basset hound — The dewclaws of short-legged dogs like the Basset Hound are positioned much lower on their legs and come into contact with the ground under much less rigorously athletic movement. Photo by Nancy Kerns

running and/or turning at speed. These images show that dew claws contact the ground and likely function as a stabilizing force. Stabilizing the foot during these activities helps minimize twisting and over-rotation of the limb, which creates unusual torque and stress on the joints. These forces eventually result in chronic arthritis, particularly in the carpus or “wrist” in dogs.

The dew claw’s contact with the ground also provides extra traction for the dog to help prevent injury from slipping, helping dogs safely navigate uneven, rocky or icy terrain, and climb steep embankments.

Anatomically, there are five tendons that attach to the dew claw. When the dew claw is intact, the muscle bellies of these tendons are well developed, implying they are used on a regular basis. If the dew claw is removed, these muscles become atrophied. This finding argues toward the dew claw being an active appendage, not just a useless ornament. Many dogs, even if not athletically inclined, use their dew claws to grip toys or things they are allowed to chew.

What’s Best For Your Dog is Your Choice

Many breeders and trainers form opinions based on their own experiences, like Adsitt-Pettey and her Labrador hunting dogs. And, there are agility competitors who have had dogs both with and without dew claws who have repeatedly experienced the development of chronic carpal arthritis in their dogs without dew claws. While this is not scientific proof, the value of experience gathered by professionals over time with multiple dogs is nothing to ignore.

We all want what’s best for our dogs. Sometimes the answers are not clear cut. In those instances, the best you can do is gather as much information as you can from reputable sources like your veterinarian, your trainer (particularly if you do dog sports), and your potential breeder. It’s up to you to make the best, most educated decision for your dog.

Dog Breeds With Double Dew claws

Most dogs with double dew claws on the hind limbs were bred for guarding or herding livestock. Historically, these extra claws helped them navigate difficult mountainous terrain. The American Kennel Club (AKC) considers double dew claws a breed standard for the Great Pyrenees, the Beauceron, and the Briard.

Double dew claws are frequently seen in the Icelandic Sheepdog, Anatolian Shepherd, and the Spanish Mastiff but they are not considered necessary to meet breed standards.

The Saint Bernard, historically bred for rescue work in the Swiss Alps, frequently has single dew claws on the hind limbs, occasionally double. While these dew claws are not a disqualification from AKC competition, they are considered undesirable in this breed.

For some reason, the Bouvier des Flandres, a herding dog from Belgium, must have hind dew claws removed to meet AKC breed standards.

The Norwegian Lundehund has the most interesting feet of all. Bred to hunt puffin birds in Norway, these dogs would scale rocky cliffs to raid the nests. They have at least six toes on each foot to help them grip the slippery surfaces they climbed. This polydactylism is described in the AKC breed standard for the Norwegian Lundehund.

Celebration and Birthday Cake Recipes Your Dog Will Love

Food

By

CJ Puotinen

-

January 29, 2023

1

dog birthday cake — No matter the occasion, your dogs will anticipate and enjoy the opportunity to savor a special treat made just for them. ©Nancy Kerns

Create a custom cake by assembling your dog’s favorite ingredients, such as peanut butter, bananas, apples, pecans, walnuts, unsweetened shredded coconut, carrots, bacon, chicken, fish, eggs, or cheese – or add whatever your dog most enjoys to any of the following!

To make a fast, no-bake cake for dogs:

Mix 1 cup of dry dog food with
1/4 cup unsweetened (xylitol-free) peanut butter and
1 or 2 mashed ripe bananas.

For a larger cake, double or triple these ingredients. Shape the mixture as a ball or flat square or circle.

To bake a custom dog-friendly cake:

Mix 1 cup all-purpose, almond, or gluten-free flour with
1/2 teaspoon baking soda and set aside.

In a mixing bowl combine

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 egg
1/2 cup pureed apple (unsweetened applesauce is fine)
1/2 cup plain canned pumpkin (not canned pumpkin pie mix)
1/4 cup unsweetened peanut butter or almond butter, and
2 tablespoons chopped cooked bacon.

Add the flour mixture, mix or beat well, pour into a greased 8-inch round or square pan, and bake at 350ºF for 25 to 30 minutes or until done. Cool on a wire rack and remove from baking pan.

dog birthday cake recipe ingredients — One cup of your favorite healthy flour (whether all-purpose, gluten-free, almond, chickpea, oat) is the base for the egg, oil, pumpkin, and nut butter for a dense and delicious baked cake for your dog. ©Nancy Kerns

To decorate your cake, place it on a serving plate.

decorated dog friendly cake — ©Nancy Kerns

Mix 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt and 4 tablespoons room-temperature cream cheese (double the recipe as needed).

Apply the frosting with a spatula or drizzle it over the cake. You can also press bone-shaped dog biscuits or dog treats on the top; sprinkle colorful berries, chopped nuts (like walnuts or pecans), or bacon bits all over the top; and/or arrange small carrots like candles onto the frosted cake. Slice and serve.

For a festive meatloaf cake recipe for dogs:

Mix 2 cups (1 pound) low-fat ground beef, chicken, turkey, or other meat with
1 egg and
1/2 cup chopped or grated cheese.

Shape and serve raw or bake in a loaf pan at 350ºF for 40 minutes, then cool and remove from pan.

Leftovers of all cakes should be covered and refrigerated for serving later.

How to Treat Cysts on Dogs

Health

By

Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM

-

January 28, 2023

1

Cysts on dogs can occur for several reasons. They're usually benign but they can be annoying and unsightly. — A cyst is a skin gland that’s gone a little crazy. It’s harmless, but it can be annoying when it ruptures and drains or is in a bad location, like between the dog’s toes. Credit: marcoventuriniautieri | Getty Images

Cysts are firm bumps that appear either in the skin or under the dog’s skin. They are, in a basic sense, a skin gland that’s gone a little crazy. They can appear pretty much anywhere there is skin. You may hear them called lots of different things like epidermal cysts, inclusion cysts, follicular cysts, keratinizing acanthomas, sebaceous adenomas, or pilomatricomas. But at the end of the day, a cyst is just a cyst, and it is a benign lesion, which means it is not harmful.

How to Treat Ruptured Cysts

Cysts can become problematic, however. Sometimes they break open and ooze or drain. Sometimes they get infected. Often, they are filled with cheesy-looking material (sebum). If you squeeze the cyst and it appears to empty, don’t expect it to go away. The lining of the cyst is still there and that is what produces the secretions that fill the cyst.

Leaking secretions allowed to build up around the cyst will irritate the surrounding skin. If your dog’s cyst is draining, be sure to keep the surrounding skin clean and dry. If your dog’s cyst becomes infected, your veterinarian will usually prescribe oral antibiotics. Warm compressing several times a day will help the infection drain.

How to Remove Cysts

Cyst removal on dogs involves surgery, and it is the only way to permanently get rid of a cyst. It is usually a simple procedure. Your dog will have stitches, may need to wear a cone around his neck to stop him from bothering the area, and will have to have restricted exercise for 10 days or so until the stitches are removed.

For sizable cysts, this procedure is usually done under general anesthesia, so if your dog needs his teeth cleaned ask if you can have this done at the same time. For smaller cysts, and for older dogs for whom general anesthesia is considered too risky, your veterinarian may be willing to remove the cyst with a local anesthetic.

Whole Dog Journal reviews dog food, dog toys, and dog health and care products, and also teaches positive dog training methods.

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What’s Best For Your Dog is Your Choice

To make a fast, no-bake cake for dogs:

To bake a custom dog-friendly cake:

For a festive meatloaf cake recipe for dogs:

How to Treat Ruptured Cysts

How to Remove Cysts

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