For years, I’ve told you what attributes to look for (and look out for) when choosing a food for your dogs. This often leads people to ask me what companies or products I like best, or what I feed my dogs. I’ve always declined to answer, because what’s right for my dogs (and time and budget), may not suit you or your dogs at all. But to heck with it: This year, I’m naming names – not the names of what I feed, but what foods and companies I admire the most, and what products I would point you toward if I accompanied you to the pet supply store (see “What’s the Best Dry Dog Food?”). Of course, you have to select what works best for your dogs – just like us, they can’t all eat the same thing and still thrive – but I hope it helps you understand how I use WDJ’s food selection criteria to narrow down the abundant options.
Speaking of the wealth of options: There are more than 1,100 good dog foods represented on our list of “Approved Dry Dog Foods for 2023,” which is available to subscribers only. This is a far cry from the couple-dozen products that met the same selection criteria when WDJ was launched 26 years ago. It’s a great thing to have so many healthy options today, even if it can be overwhelming.
Also in this issue: When I first read trainer Kathy Callahan’s article (“Don’t Bring Your Dog to Every Gathering!”), I immediately thought of something that happened shortly after I graduated from high school. My parents once threw a big country barbecue party. There was an entire pig cooking in a pit in a firepit, a band playing in a tent in the pasture, and hundreds of people all over the property. At the time, I had a Kelpie-mix named Tavi, who had the run of the place thanks to his training and usual good behavior. But late in the afternoon, I heard a bunch of people yelling and the unmistakable sound of a dog fight. I ran straight for the ruckus, where three or four people, including a family friend who was a professional musician, were trying to separate the combatants: Tavi and our next-door neighbor’s dog, who had gotten into our pasture somehow. In the melee, my musician friend got bitten – a redirected snap that punctured the back of his hand. This not only led to a trip to the emergency room, but several return visits to a doctor, because the bite (which got infected) damaged a nerve in my friend’s hand, and left him unable to play the guitar for about a year.
Talk about guilt; I feel terrible about it to this day. Why hadn’t I locked up my dog for the party? The answer is partly that I was young and dumb and confident in my dog’s training – but the real answer is that I had never heard of trigger-stacking. Read Kathy’s article, and avoid my mistake!
Chewing is natural for a dog, so we have to provide proper chew items. Otherwise, your dog is going to use whatever is handy, like the wood furniture. Credit Deborah Faulkner | Getty Images
Chewing on wood furniture is not uncommon for puppies. Even a few adult dogs will sometimes chew non-edible items, like wood furniture. The reasons why these dogs chew inappropriately are different, but the overall responsibility is the same, and it rests with us, as owners.
With puppies, chewing is primarily due to teething—chewing soothes those sore gums, just as it does for human babies. In contrast, adult dogs with painful teeth or gums don’t chew things—they may not even want to eat!—which would make a trip to the veterinarian in order.
However, dogs of all ages will chew due to stress, inactivity, or boredom. It’s up to us to solve those problems if we want furniture chewing to stop.
Why Do Puppies Chew?
In addition to teething, puppies chew to better explore the world. Remember that dogs use scent, sight, hearing, and taste to learn about things around them. Exploratory chewing will continue for most puppies and adolescent dogs through the age of 2. If you pass them an unfamiliar item with a novel texture, chances are they will take it and immediately lie down to chew it. It’s all part of growing up.
Why Do Adult Dogs Chew?
An adult dog who chews inappropriately is likely stressed, bored, or both. It’s your dog’s way of telling you that he needs more exercise and mental stimulation. Consider an adult dog who is well-housetrained and needs to relieve himself but no one’s home to let him out. Instead of making a mess, he may gnaw on a furniture leg to mitigate the stress of trying to “hold it.”
How to Stop a Dog from Chewing on Furniture
Chewing is natural, but if we don’t provide appropriate chew things, dogs will chew on what’s at hand. Avoid confusing your dog by allowing him to chew on household items like old throw rugs or shoes. He won’t know the difference next week when he decides to give those pretty, new sandals a taste.
To stop inappropriate chewing, you need to provide direction, oversight, and appropriate chews, like Kong toys, Orbee Tuff by Planet Dog, and the Zogoflex line of toys by West Paw. You can give large raw (never cooked) bones and some types of animal products, like rawhide. But be careful. For example, it doesn’t take a dog long to chew down a bully stick to a little piece that then gets stuck in his throat. (If you like to feed bully sticks, consider getting the Bow Wow Buddy.) All chewing must be supervised.
Spray Deterrents
While you can buy bitter-tasting deterrent sprays to halt your dog’s furniture appetite, they rarely work long, if at all. The solution is good management, which means keeping your dog or puppy exercised, providing proper chews and toys to alleviate boredom, and watching what your dog is doing.
Finally, if your dog does grab something you don’t want him to chew, taking it away from him will be a whole lot easier if you take the time to teach him the “trade game” before you need it. And guess what? Training new things is the perfect activity for you and your dog to do to help eliminate that boredom—and inappropriate chewing.
Dogs going on trains need to be in a carrier and not sneaking a look out. Your dog should be clean, a non-barker, and fit within the company’s size limitations. Credit: Yana Tikhonova | Getty
Yes, dogs are allowed on most trains—your small dog, anyway—but not all trains. And there are a lot of rules about dogs on trains. First and foremost, your dog must be clean (not smelly) and not disruptive, so he should not be a barker.
Remember that the most important consideration to any passenger train company is the comfort and safety of its customers, and rules are designed to ensure that. That’s why dogs and cats are the only pets allowed on trains—your bearded dragon will need to stay home.
Small dogs are allowed on Amtrak, the country’s largest passenger train, but the maximum combined weight of the dog and carrier is 20 pounds. You must provide the carrier, which must fit under your seat or the floor in front of you in some cases (ask when you make the reservation). The carrier can be a maximum of 19” long, 14” wide, and 10.5” high. It can be soft or hard but must be leakproof and well-ventilated. The dog must be able to sit and lie down without touching the sides of the carrier.
Your dog must be in the carrier at all times on the train and in the station. Dogs are only allowed on trips that are seven hours or less, and the dog cannot need attention during that time (meaning primarily feeding or a potty break).
Only five dogs are allowed on each train (not including certified service pets), and the Amtrak website recommends making a reservation for your dog. Amtrak can refuse any pet, and only one pet is allowed per customer. The fee is generally $29 to $39.
Your dog must be at least 8 weeks old, you will need to sign a release form certifying he’s fully vaccinated. Always have your dog’s picture, microchip information, and full vaccination records from your veterinarian with you.
Dogs are not allowed in some trains—and not at all on the Auto Train that runs from Virginia to Florida—and they are not allowed on trains going outside the United States.
While these are the most important regulations, there are others, and the rules can change. For Amtrak, call 800-USA-RAIL or go to Amtrak.com/home to find out more before you plan a train ride with your dog.
If your or someone in your home uses medical or recreational cannabis products, it’s critical to keep them where a dog cannot reach them. THC-containing “edibles” and vape cartridges are irresistible for some dogs, and both contain concentrated amounts of THC. But even “just” unconcentrated, unprocessed marijuana can severely affect a dog, as strains of the cannabis plant contain much more THC than in the past. Photo by Dusan Stankovic / Getty Images
Recreational marijuana has become legalized in 21 states and medical marijuana can be prescribed in 37 states. As marijuana becomes more widely available, people are looking for ways to partake of this drug without having to smoke it. This has created a market for marijuana “edibles,” also known as cannabis edibles.
Cannabis edibles are products that contain the psychoactive component of marijuana called delta-9 tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). A variety of products are available as cannabis edibles, including gummies and other candies, mints, chocolates and chocolate bars, beverages, potato chips, and baked goods such as brownies and cookies. Unfortunately, many of these sweet or savory options are also attractive to our dogs. While we may have more self-control regarding how many edibles we consume at one time, dogs are more likely to ingest an entire package of any edibles they can reach because they taste delicious.
Symptoms of THC Ingestion in Dogs
Ingestion of small to moderate amounts of THC may cause the following signs in dogs: listlessness, incoordination when walking, falling over when standing, dilated pupils, slow heart rate, dribbling urine, and an exaggerated response to light, touch, and sound. Dogs who have ingested large amounts of THC may have slow breathing, low blood pressure, and may exhibit seizures or become comatose.
What to Do If Your Dog Ate Cannabis Edibles
If you observe your dog ingesting cannabis edibles, take him to your veterinarian or the closest animal emergency or urgent care facility immediately. If the ingestion occurred within 30 minutes of arrival at the hospital and your dog is not showing clinical signs of THC ingestion, then the veterinary staff may induce vomiting.
If it has been more than 30 minutes since ingestion of the edible or your dog is showing signs of listlessness, then vomiting will likely not be induced. This is because THC has an anti-emetic effect; it can suppress vomiting. If your dog is already listless, causing your dog to vomit in this depressed state can lead to aspiration pneumonia. Activated charcoal may be administered to absorb THC and minimize the effect it has on your dog’s body. If the edible contains chocolate or xylitol, then additional treatments may be necessary.
What to Do if You’re Not Sure if Your Dog Ate a Cannabis Product
If your dog is exhibiting signs of THC ingestion, but you did not witness or find evidence of this, have your dog evaluated by a veterinarian immediately. Be honest about what you have in the home, including any products containing THC, prescription sedatives, vape cartridges (including nicotine), and illicit drugs. Children, seniors, and roommates living in the home may not always be forthcoming about what they are storing in their bedrooms, so be firm yet gentle when inquiring about the presence of these products. The veterinary staff wants only to help your dog. They are not interested in contacting authorities about anything illegal in your home.
The clinical signs of THC ingestion look similar to the signs associated with ingestion of other sedatives, nicotine, and antifreeze. There is an antidote for antifreeze ingestion and without this intervention, this toxicity is always fatal. Your veterinarian may want to complete additional testing to rule out other causes for your dog’s clinical signs so that the appropriate treatment plan is initiated.
Although there is a urine test for THC available for use in people, this test is not always accurate in dogs. Dogs metabolize THC differently than people, so there is a high rate of false negatives with this test. However, a positive test for THC is almost always compatible with THC ingestion.
If ingestion of THC is suspected and the potential source has been identified, the veterinary team may contact animal poison control for further guidance regarding treatment. There are a number of variables that can alter how THC affects your dog. These variables include how much was ingested, your dog’s weight and concurrent medical conditions, any medications or supplements your dog may be taking, how the THC was infused into the product, and if the edible contains chocolate or xylitol.
Brownies, chocolates, and chocolate bars containing THC add another dimension to your dog’s toxicity: ingestion of theobromine and caffeine. Both of these are contained in chocolate and are toxic to your dog. Just like with THC, the type of chocolate (such as dark or milk chocolate), the amount ingested and the weight of your dog dictate the danger level and recommended treatment. (See “What to Do If Your Dog Eats Chocolate.”)
Gummies, mints, other THC edible candies and even baked goods may contain xylitol, an artificial sweetener that is toxic to dogs. Even tiny doses of xylitol are toxic to dogs, so it is important to know if any edibles your dog may have consumed contain xylitol.
Treatment for Cannabis Ingestion
Most mild cases of THC ingestion can be treated successfully at home by keeping your dog in a safe, quiet room where he cannot fall down the stairs or be exposed to excessive light or sound. Moderate cases of THC ingestion may require hospitalization with intravenous fluids, monitoring of heart rate and blood pressure, and medications to support the cardiovascular system and treat neurologic signs. Ingestion of high doses of THC will require hospitalization and may necessitate the administration of intralipids. Intralipids bind to THC so that it can be excreted safely from the body.
Ingested THC is fat soluble and is readily stored in body fat. Therefore, it can take anywhere from 12 to 36 hours for your dog’s clinical signs to resolve after ingesting a cannabis edible.
If you use cannabis products, store them in a locked drawer or cabinet. Dogs are clever and some can open drawers and cabinets, but I have yet to meet one that can insert a key in a lock!
The coat type and quality of the new dog breeds that were created by crossing Poodles with dogs of other breeds vary quite a bit, even among individuals in a litter. Buying a Labradoodle is not a guarantee that the dog-allergic person in your family will not react to the dog. Photo by Natasha Sloss/ Getty Images
Coughing, wheezing, shortness of breath, or asthma.
Red, itchy, or watering eyes.
Skin rash, itching, or hives.
Dramatic symptoms pose the greatest challenge, but individual responses vary and some dogs are a comfortable match for some people with allergies. It may be possible to live with the dog of your choice without struggling with breathing problems, rashes, or itching.
What does “hypoallergenic” mean?
The term hypoallergenic, which does not have a legal definition, describes foods, cosmetics, fabrics, detergents, and products that do not contain known allergens, so they are unlikely to cause allergic reactions. Dogs with little or no hair, dogs whose coats require clipping or shaving, and dogs whos are not heavy shedders are often called hypoallergenic because they may be less likely than other dogs to generate problem proteins.
The proteins that cause allergic reactions come from:
Canine dander
Canine saliva
Canine urine
Dust mites, mold spores, pollens, and other allergens that cling to a dog’s hair
Dander, made up of flaky dead skin cells, is the main culprit because it floats through the air, collects on floors and furniture, and clings to clothing. Visible dander particles look like dust or dandruff, but many are microscopic and far too small to see. Some studies show that 90% of American homes contain detectable pet allergens, and pet allergen particles circulating in a home can remain active for months.
What breeds are a better choice for people with allergies?
Dogs who shed the least and are recommended for people with allergies include the American Hairless Terrier, Chinese Crested, and other hairless breeds, plus the Afghan Hound, Airedale Terrier, Bedlington Terrier, Bichon Frise, Boston Terrier, Briard, Giant Schnauzer, Greyhound, Irish Water Spaniel, Lhasa Apso, Maltese, Poodle, Shih Tzu, Wire Fox Terrier, and Yorkshire Terrier. Their personalities, exercise needs, sizes, and training requirements vary, so focusing on low-shedding breeds is only one step in your finding-the-right-dog research project.
Which breeds are worse?
Dogs with heavy coats that collect dander and shed year-round are often blamed for allergic reactions. These “not recommended” breeds include the Basset Hound, Boxer, Cocker Spaniel, Dachshund, Dalmatian, Doberman Pinscher, German Shepherd, Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Pekingese, Pug, Saint Bernard, and Siberian Husky. Because dog saliva contains allergenic proteins, the Bloodhound, Bulldog, Great Dane, Mastiff, Newfoundland, and other enthusiastic droolers can cause further reactions.
So-Called “Hypoallergenic” Breeds
During the 1950s, two of America’s most popular breeds, the Poodle and Cocker Spaniel, were combined to create the Cockapoo. Cockapoos and subsequent Poodle crosses like Goldendoodles, Labradoodles, and Bernedoodles were soon promoted as ideal family dogs and a blessing for people with allergies. Now hundreds of combinations that used to be called mutts or mixed-breeds carry impressive price tags and hypoallergenic claims.
Just because a puppy has one low-shedding parent doesn’t mean it will inherit that trait, and even if it inherits the “right” coat, it can still cause allergic reactions. The only meaningful test for people with serious allergies is in-person exposure. This is why allergists recommend visits to animal shelters, breeders, and foster homes as well as trial adoptions to determine whether direct contact with a specific breed or specific dog will trigger allergy symptoms.
Housekeeping Advice for Dog-Allergic Dog Owners
There are many people who are allergic to dogs but love them too much to consider not sharing their home with one or more. Using extraordinary housekeeping techniques will reduce the accumulation and circulation of dog-source allergens in a home.
Use a professional pet dander removal cleaning service.
Install and maintain HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filters.
Dust, damp-mop, and vacuum daily with a vacuum cleaner designed for pet hair.
Wash dog beds, blankets, toys, and dog garments using laundry products labeled hypoallergenic or fragrance-free.
Whenever needed, steam-clean carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture.
Create an “allergy-free” (meaning “dog-free”) zone to minimize dander in that part of the house.
Grooming Dogs Who Live With Allergic People
For families with allergies, no dog is maintenance-free. They all require daily brushing and frequent bathing. The more time your dog spends outdoors, the more you’ll be exposed to pollen, dust, mold spores, and allergenic debris from other dogs. Some allergic owners rely on professional groomers for routine clipping, shaving, bathing, or coat conditioning, which can be expensive. Hypoallergenic dog grooming involves equipment (brushes, combs, clippers, scissors, towels, and hair dryers), supplies (hypoallergenic dog shampoos, conditioners, or anti-dander products), and time. The time investment can be substantial, so be sure the necessary grooming routines are comfortable for you and your dog. At a minimum:
Brush your dog daily, preferably outdoors.
Wash your hands after grooming or touching your dog.
Place your clothes in the washer after grooming your dog.
Bathe your dog as often as needed to prevent dander using hypoallergenic shampoos and conditioners (dilute products before use and rinse thoroughly).
Many of the so-called hypoallergenic breeds have coats that require daily grooming and frequent clipping to prevent matting that is painful and unhealthy for the dog – and that can worsen an allergic owner’s allergies. A matted coat will collect allergens, and the dog’s skin, irritated by the pulling of the mats, will produce more dander. Photo by Fly View Productions / Getty Images
Your allergies may be only part of the problem. Your dog might have allergies, too. The most common symptoms of canine allergies are itching, scratching, and skin or coat dander, exactly what you don’t need more of!
Allergies usually appear in adult dogs, not puppies, and most dogs are between two and six years old when diagnosed. Common causes of allergic reactions include flea or mite bites, exposure to environmental or seasonal allergens, exposure to products that contain irritating or harmful ingredients, and reactions to certain foods. If you suspect that your dog has allergies, schedule an exam with your veterinarian to determine causes and treatments.
Anti-allergy dog blankets and bedding, which help repel mites and mold spores and which do not contain irritating chemicals, may help an itching dog.
What foods and supplements reduce dog dander?
Nutrition plays a key role in maintaining a healthy coat. A simple way to improve your dog’s diet and help decrease shedding and dander is by increasing the diet’s animal protein content (see “10 Healthy Additions to Your Dog’s Dry-Food Diet”). Foods and supplements that contain Omega-3 fatty acids, such as fish oils, can improve a dog’s skin. Digestive supplements that improve the assimilation of nutrients further reduce skin flaking and dander.
When it’s worth the effort
The 100% truly hypoallergenic dog is indeed a myth, but there is much dog lovers can do to make their pets less allergenic. Not everyone with allergies will find a perfect health-match companion, but by focusing on conditions they can control, many allergy sufferers live comfortably with the dogs they love.
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Many of our approved dry dog food selections are available in a "small bites" version, with the same ingredients and levels of fat and protein but manufactured with a smaller kibble size, for smaller dogs. Check the manufacturers' websites. Photo by Westend61/Getty Images
By applying the foregoing criteria, we’ve found a thousand or more good foods to choose from; their manufacturers appear on our “Approved Dry Dog Foods” list. But we know what you’re going to ask next: How do you choose a dog food for your dog?
The answer depends on what you’re feeding your dog now and what he looks and feels like.
If he looks like a show dog (he’s at an appropriate weight and has a glossy, healthy coat and clean ears), he seems to feel good (he’s energetic without being hyperactive, he’s not itchy, and his appetite is good), and his poop is a good density (not too loose nor too hard), what you’re feeding him now is likely working just fine! Good job!
But if he’s too fat or too thin, his coat is without luster, he’s itchy and prone to ear infections, is constantly licking his paws or developing hot spots, lacks energy or is reactive and hyperactive, or has chronic diarrhea or constipation, then it’s time to change his food.
What you change it to depends on what changes you want to make in your dog and your dog’s needs.
If he’s overweight, you need to reduce the number of calories he receives; a food with less fat and higher-quality protein sources is in order.
If he’s too thin and you haven’t been able to get him to gain weight, a food with higher amounts of fat and high-quality protein in order.
If he’s itchy year-round, he likely has allergies. You need to conduct a food elimination trial, to try to determine what ingredients he may be allergic to, so you can avoid those ingredients. At the very least, select a “limited-ingredient” food, one that contains just one species of animal protein and as few other ingredients as possible. Make notes daily about your dog’s itching; is it more or less frequent when you feed him a chicken-based diet than when he’s on a lamb-based diet?
Since most food allergies involve proteins, try to find a food that uses only one species of animal protein, and a single grain or carb source. Grains and legumes also contain protein, so these need to be considered as potential allergens as well.
If he has digestive issues, he may need more fiber in his diet, or the right kind of fiber. Soluble fiber, found in oat bran, beans, lentils, chickpeas, and peas, slows things down in the digestive tract, helping relieve chronic diarrhea. Insoluble fiber, found in wheat bran, vegetables, quinoa, and whole grains, helps speed up the transit of food in the digestive tract and helps prevent constipation.
Some food ingredients, including most legumes, contain both soluble and insoluble fiber.
Two More Factors When Choosing the Best Dog Food for Your Dog
What if your dog is just fine – maybe not ready for a show ring, but without any notable problems, either. How should you select the best dry dog food in that case?
One obvious factor to consider is cost. Better-quality foods are considerably more expensive than low-quality foods. The size of your dog, and how many dogs you have, may affect your selection.
Keep in mind that the most expensive food is not necessarily the best dog kibble. High sales prices don’t always reflect the quality of the food ingredients. Keep in mind that some pet food companies maintain large research facilities; others spend a huge amount on advertising and/or sponsorships of dog-related events.
That said, we must warn you away from the lowest-cost foods. Most of them are more suitable for feeding birds than dogs.
Make sure to check the nutritional adequacy statement (better known as the AAFCO statement) on the label to make sure you are buying a food that’s formulated to meet your dog’s needs. It’s one of the most important bits of information about the food, and yet it’s almost always listed in very tiny print.
The statement tells you which set of nutritional requirements the food meets: the standards for “growth” (puppies and pregnant or nursing females) or “adult maintenance.” Those two descriptions are sometimes referred to as “life-stage foods.” This is not to be confused with foods for dogs “of all life stages,” which means that the food has been formulated to meet the requirements of dogs of any age or life stage.
Some companies also offer what they call “senior” foods, but there are not different standards for senior dogs; check the AAFCO statement to see if the food was formulated to meet the requirements for adult maintenance or all life stages.
The energy density of the food – how many calories it contains – is something else to consider. Say you’ve been feeding a product with 300 calories per cup, and your dog, who’s at a healthy weight, gets two cups a day. If you switch to a food with 400 calories per cup, and you keep feeding him two cups a day, you will be giving him 200 more calories a day more than you were. He won’t stay at that ideal weight for long, unless you reduce the amount you feed, in this case, to a cup and a half. Will feeding him 25% less than you were previously leave him hungry and disgruntled, leading him to raid the cat food and counter-surf? He may be better off with a lower-calorie food.
Independent pet supply stores often have the best-informed, most helpful staff, who can help direct you to appropriate foods for your dog's needs. We suggest buying from independent stores whenever possible (but understand that not everyone lives in a town with one or more of these!)
Many people (and even many veterinarians) believe that all foods that are labeled as “complete and balanced” contain approximately the same amounts and levels of nutrients. This presumes that pet food makers are all working to meet some sort of “recommended daily allowance” (RDA) of nutrients required by dogs – but it’s not true.
The RDA nutrient levels for humans were developed by the Food and Nutrition Board of the National Research Council/National Academy of Sciences. Vitamin, mineral, and macronutrient (fat, protein, carbohydrate) levels are expressed on our food packages as providing some percentage of the total amount of various nutrients that we need daily. But this isn’t how nutrient levels in pet foods are expressed.
The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) establishes the nutrient levels that legally constitute “complete and balanced” diets for our pets, and publishes the requirements for canine diets in a table – the “AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.”
But, unlike the human RDAs with target levels of nutrients, the Dog Food Nutrient Profiles consist only of minimum values for all the nutrients required by dogs and maximum values for just a few nutrients. As long as a food meets the minimum nutrient values expressed in the profiles, and doesn’t exceed the maximum values, it can be labeled as “complete and balanced.”
Let’s say it another way: The foods on your pet store shelves may actually contain wildly varying levels of vitamins, minerals, and macronutrients, and yet all can call themselves “complete and balanced.”
All of the chicken- and rice-based foods below are labeled as “complete and balanced” diets for adult dogs; each purportedly meets the minimum nutritional standards for the “maintenance” of adult dogs. But we can’t possibly consider these foods as equivalent. We’ve listed the first 10 ingredients from their labels so you can compare the formulas. We’ve also positioned them in order of decreasing quality – from first to worst – in our opinion and according to our selection criteria.
Sometimes, when dog foods are on sale, it's a simple promotion. We suggest always checking the "best by" date on the package, though, to make sure the store isn't just trying to reduce stock that's getting close to its expiration.
Here’s what to look for in dog food and the criteria we use to identify good-quality dry dog foods.
1. Look for named animal protein sources at the top of the ingredients list.
Ingredients in pet food are listed in order of the weight of that ingredient in the formula, so whatever is at the top of the list is present in the food in the greatest amount.
We want to see animal protein sources, because animal proteins contain more of the amino acids that dogs need than plant-sourced proteins; the more completely a protein provides the amino acids that dogs need, the higher-quality that protein is considered to be.
We also want that animal protein source to be named – identified by species, whether it’s a meat, organ, or a meat meal (e.g., chicken, chicken liver, chicken meal).
When a fresh meat is first on the ingredient list, there should be a named animal-protein meal immediately or closely following the meat. Important note: When we use the phrase “meat meal,” we are always talking about a meal made from a named animal. If the ingredients list on a product label says “meat meal,” you have no idea what species of animal is in that meal. Only buy products with named meat meals – chicken meal, beef meal, pork meal, lamb meal, etc.
Meat meals are made through a process called rendering, whereby much of the moisture (and a lot of the fat) is removed from the meat. Meat meals are a highly concentrated source of protein. Pound for pound, meat meals provide much more protein at a lower cost than fresh meats. But fresh meats add appealing flavors and aromas to the food. Also, they get added to the food mixture just before the food is cooked; rendered meat meals have already been processed and will be twice-cooked by the time the food is extruded or baked (and some nutrients are depleted with each cooking process).
Fresh or frozen meat contains a lot of moisture (which is heavy), but not that much protein, so if meat is first on the list, it acts like a diluted protein source. That’s why we like to see another named source of animal protein appearing in the top two or three ingredients. We’re emphasizing animal proteins because some companies use fresh meats supported by plant proteins. To repeat ourselves, generally, plant proteins are less complete for dogs than animal proteins.
So, what’s best for healthy dog food: meat only, meat meal only, or both? We like both – but it depends on what works best for your dog and your budget.
2. Look for whole-food ingredients in dog food.
When vegetables, fruits, grains, and/or carbohydrate sources such as chickpeas or sweet potatoes are used, they should be whole. Ingredients that have already been processed, shipped, and stored before they are used in dog kibble will have lost quite a bit of their nutritive value before they are mixed with other ingredients and processed again (mixed with other ingredients and then either baked or extruded, dried, and coated).
3. Look for ingredients that are certified as organic, humanely raised, or sustainably farmed.
Companies will use wiggle words to lend the impression that they are using the best ingredients available. Certifications give these claims credibility in the best, healthy dog foods.
Signs of Low-Quality Dog Food: Traits and Ingredients to Avoid
The following are traits that we don’t want to see on a dog food label – undesirable attributes that indicate a lower-quality dog food:
The lowest price you can find.
The cheapest foods contain the cheapest ingredients available to pet food manufacturers, and will not be healthy dog foods. While technically any food that’s labeled as “complete and balanced” is supposed to contain minimum amounts of the nutrients dogs need, with low-quality ingredients, there is no telling how bio-available the nutrients will be.
Animal products that are not specified by species.
Meat meal, meat and bone meal, poultry meal, poultry by-product meal, animal fat, poultry fat: If you have a pet with a food intolerance or allergy, you have to know what you’re feeding him in order to identify the problematic ingredient.
Animal by-products.
This includes meat by-products and poultry by-products, as well as meat by-product meal and poultry by-product meal. These animal protein sources are nutritious, but are handled with far less care than more expensive animal protein sources (i.e., without refrigeration and with less sanitation).
We’d choose a food that contained meat by-products over one with meat by-product meal; the unrendered ingredients must be used for food production quickly, whereas the industry handles ingredients that are going to be rendered with less urgency. Also, again, all meals have been cooked once already and will be cooked again after being mixed with all the other food ingredients.
Added sweeteners.
Like us, dogs like sweets. But they also like meat, especially fatty meats. When a food lacks enough meat to make it appealing to dogs, either because the food is carbohydrate-heavy or uses mostly plant-sourced proteins, sweeteners are often added to increase the food’s palatability.
Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives (such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin).
The color of the food doesn’t matter to your dog. And it should be flavored well enough with healthy meats and fats to be enticing. Natural preservatives, such as mixed tocopherols, are healthier than synthetic preservatives.
The one time we don’t mind seeing an artificial preservative is in foods that contain a lot of fish. Fish and fish meals are notoriously volatile; the fats in fish go rancid more quickly than other animal fats. Artificial preservatives repress the rancidity better and longer than natural preservatives. Pro tip: If buying a fish-based food, check the date-code on the bag and try to get the freshest food possible.
Ingredient splitting.
This is where two or more very similar food “fractions” appear separately on the ingredients list. A pet food manufacturer can use this technique to make it appear that a high-quality ingredient is represented in the food in a greater proportion than it really is. Remember, the food’s ingredients are listed in descending order of their weight on the label. By using several separate iterations of an ingredient and listing them separately, they will fall below the better ingredient on the ingredients list.
An example: A label lists chicken meal first on the label, followed by several fractions or versions of an ingredient as separate ingredients (i.e., rice, brewer’s rice, rice bran, rice protein meal). If all the iterations of the “rice” ingredients were combined or reconstituted, they would outweigh and push the chicken down on the ingredients list; it would now read rice first, then chicken.
One of the first possible signs of kidney disease is your dog drinking an unusually large amount of water, although it could also indicate other diseases, like diabetes. Credit: Capuski | Getty Images
Signs of kidney disease in dogs may be subtle and easy to miss. They also are not specific for renal (kidney) problems and can indicate other health issues, like diabetes, heatstroke, and liver disease.
The first symptoms of kidney disease in dogs are often only noted by an astute owner. You might notice that your chowhound is not cleaning up all his meals or even skipping a meal now and then. He may walk over to his bowl, drool a bit, and then walk away, which suggests nausea.
A solid symptom of kidney problems in a dog is having to fill the water bowl an extra time during the day because your dog is so thirsty. Of course, your dog is asking to go out every couple of hours instead of his normal four times a day or he is having accidents in the house. The urine may have a strong odor and a very dark color. You might even notice some blood. On top of all that, your dog may have lost his interest in playing and has dropped a few pounds.
Signs of Kidney Failure in Dog’s Mouth
When you brush your dog’s teeth, you may think his breath seems worse than usual. His gums are likely pale instead of their normal shade of pink. You might notice sores on his gums.
Some dogs will vomit occasionally and, although rarely, a dog may have diarrhea. Weakness in the rear, mimicking fatigue, may be noted.
As you may suspect, none of these signs are specific for kidney disease, but if more than one symptom is present, you should see your veterinarian. If possible, bring a fresh, clean urine sample and expect to have some bloodwork to be ordered.
Acute Kidney Failure in Dogs
The signs noted above are for chronic kidney disease that takes a while to become evident. If your dog has acute kidney failure, such as from a toxin exposure, he will be very sick, with vomiting, drinking large amount or almost no water, no appetite at all. Head right out to your veterinary clinic.
There is no cure for kidney disease, and it is a progressive disease. At the end stages, your dog drastically worsens with lethargy, weakness (possibly including the hind end), vomiting, and a lack of thirst and urination. As the kidneys fail, they no longer produce urine.
The loss of a tooth can be obvious if it’s a front tooth, but it can be more difficult to see if it’s farther back. Photo: Irena Meshcheryakova | Getty Images
Tooth loss in common in older dogs, and the primary cause is periodontal disease. That’s an infection of the tissues around a tooth, sometime also involving the gums. And, if the gums are bad, the teeth will lose their grip, too.
Obviously, you can’t do anything about the teeth your dog has already lost—well, you can, but it’s unlikely you want to pay for implants for your dog—but you can help prevent, or at least delay, further tooth loss with preventive care.
Daily brushing with a doggy toothpaste—never human toothpaste—is a great start. Many good dental products are available to help keep your dog’s teeth and mouth in good shape, including additives to food and water, appropriate chew items, and even special foods. The Veterinary Oral Health Council has a list of recommended products.
Infection
If your dog’s mouth is infected, it’s important to get that under control by seeing a veterinarian. Antibiotics with a probiotic chaser are usually prescribed. Your veterinarian may also recommend a professional cleaning.
If your senior dog is losing teeth, don’t panic. Dogs can handle the loss of many, if not all, teeth and still have good quality of life. Your dog will be healthier and happier if the diseased teeth are removed.
Help Eating
Often the first teeth to go are the small incisors in front. Most dogs never skip a beat and often owners never notice the loss. The loss of the large canine teeth can hinder a dog a bit in that it can be more difficult to pick up or carry items, but most dogs are resourceful and still manage, if it is something they want to carry. The loss of premolars and molars mean less chewing ability, but many dogs more or less gulp and swallow their food be it raw or kibble anyway.
If your senior has trouble chewing, add warm water to his meals, which is a good idea anyway as most senior dogs can use some help with hydration. Consider switching to softer, easy to swallow treats for training and rewards.
Allowing dogs to reach skeletal maturity before neutering results in healthier joints and structure, and this is especially true for the giant breeds, like the Irish Wolfhound. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images
The best age to neuter a male dog has changed over the years. We used to think 6 months of age was just right. Turns out this may not have been the best idea, especially for large breed dogs. Historically, 6 months seemed reasonable as pups are done with their puppy shots by then, and they are at a nice, manageable size for surgery. It all seemed to make sense, but now we know a lot more.
Most veterinarians now recommend waiting to neuter male dogs after they reach full skeletal maturity, especially large breed males. Allowing these dogs to grow under the influence of their sex hormones means they grow more naturally, resulting in healthier joint angles and structure. They also grow stronger and less injury-prone tendons and ligaments. We have scientific proof that neutering a dog too early potentially makes him more prone to orthopedic problems like hip dysplasia and torn cruciate ligaments in the knee.
Waiting for skeletal maturity sets up new age recommendations for neutering:
Small breed dogs: after 12 months of age
Medium to large breed dogs: after 18 months of age
Giant breed dogs: after 24 months of age
Some veterinary specialists contend that we shouldn’t neuter male dogs at all. Those of us who still support neutering male dogs are quick to point out the benefits of neutering, including pet population control and the prevention of testicular cancer, prostatic disease, tumors growing on or around the anus (perianal adenomas), and perineal hernias (breakdown of tissue surrounding the rectum). All these diseases are preventable by neutering your dog before he reaches middle age. That said, aggressive, intact male dogs should always be neutered, as testosterone has been linked to aggression. Removing the source of testosterone helps manage this dangerous behavior issue.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
