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Knee Injuries in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Black and white border collie catches a frisbee drive
If you’re going to let your dog play athletic games like flying disc sports, he needs to be physically fit, which means joints, tendons/ligaments, and muscles with an appropriate bodyweight. ©Ksenia Raykova / Getty Images

Most dog knee injuries are either a patellar luxation or a cruciate ligament injury.  A patellar luxation, or dislocation, is usually due to congenital defects, which means the poor conformation was present at birth. While cruciate ligament injuries can have a conformation component as well, trauma is usually the cause. Both injuries cause pain and require veterinary attention.

Dog Knee Dislocation

The patella is your dog’s kneecap. The patella normally slides up and down in the middle of the knee in a natural groove, called the femoral trochlear groove, located at the end of the femur. Unfortunately, inherited defects in the dog’s knee can allow the kneecap to slide to one side or the other. If it slips to the outside, it is a lateral luxation. If it slips to the inside, it is a medial luxation.

Medial luxations are most common and tend to occur in small breeds such as Boston Terriers, Chihuahuas, Miniature Poodles, and Pomeranians. Larger dogs, such as Chinese Shar Pei, Flat-Coated Retrievers, Akitas, and Great Pyrenees, often have lateral luxations.

About 7% of puppies have patellar problems, and most show evidence of luxation in both rear legs.

Patellar luxations are graded as to their severity:

  • Grade I: The patella can be luxated by hand but doesn’t flip out on its own. If left alone, it will reposition to normal.
  • Grade II: The patella may slip out of its place on its own but if the dog straightens his leg, or you push on it, it will return to its place.
  • Grade III: The patella tends to normally be in an abnormal location but you can push it into place with your hand
  • Grade IV: The patella is always luxated and can’t be put back in place by hand.

Patellar Knee Injury Symptoms

If your dog’s kneecap moves out of place, you may notice your dog “skipping” at times when he moves, holding a leg up, or stopping and stretching a rear leg out, then continuing on. Severe luxations in puppies may alter their stance, resulting in a bowlegged appearance (medial luxation) or knock-kneed appearance (lateral luxation).

Kneecap problems are usually diagnosed with a physical exam. Your veterinarian will also check for cranial cruciate problems since the two problems can be associated. X-rays are often recommended to look for other orthopedic conditions that may influence treatment, such as hip dysplasia.

Treatments for Knee Injuries

Treatment varies with the severity of the luxation. Grade 1 and many grade 2 cases are often left alone and watched for developing problems, especially in smaller dogs. Grade 3 and grade 4 cases usually need surgery to keep the dog comfortable and reduce the chances of more orthopedic problems down the line.

In dog knee surgery for a dislocation, generally, the soft tissues are tightened on the opposite side of the luxation to help hold the patella in place. The femoral groove may be deepened to help keep the kneecap on its ideal track. The tibial crest may be moved to realign major muscles and provide a more normal anatomy for the leg. Many dogs with a kneecap problem will develop osteoarthritis later in life.

Cruciate Ligament Injuries

Most cruciate ligament problems are related to trauma. It could be an acute injury that occurs when the dog turned too tight at speed, for example, or a low-grade, chronic problem that has degenerated over time. Tears may be partial or complete.

Your dog has two cruciate ligaments: the caudal (responsible for forward stability of the joint) and the cranial (rear stability). These ligaments crisscross (hence “cruciate”) the knee joint between the bottom of the femur and the top of the tibia. They provide stability for the knee joint but allow extension and flexion. Side-to-side movement is limited.

Dogs tend to tear their ligaments while active – running, turning sharply, stepping in a hole while running, and so on. However, a ligament can be torn in an event as simple as an overweight Beagle leaping off the couch and landing badly. Risk factors for cruciate problems include environmental factors such as lifestyle activities and weight.

Torn Ligament Symptoms

Sudden, extreme pressure causes the ligament fibers to stretch and rupture. Many dogs will cry out, and most will suddenly go three-legged lame and hold up the affected leg. The joint may become inflamed, swollen, and painful. Signs of a chronic partial tear may be more subtle – resembling arthritis. You may notice your dog is unusually stiff after a period of inactivity and/or shows intermittent lameness.

Breeds at highest risk of a torn cruciate are muscular, active, medium to large dogs, including Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Rottweilers, and Pit Bulls.

This injury is so common in Labs that a genetic test looking for susceptibility to cruciate problems is available through the Comparative Genetics and Orthopaedic Research Laboratory at the University of Wisconsin–Madison School of Veterinary Medicine. A dog who is positive on this genetic test is not guaranteed to rupture a cruciate but is considered at higher risk: about 62% genetic coupled with 38% environment. Owners should be extra vigilant about preventing weight gain and should do regular physical therapy to keep their dogs fit.

Diagnosing a Cruciate Knee Injury

Your veterinarian will likely diagnose your dog’s knee injury on physical examination. A lax (loose) joint is a solid indicator of a complete tear. Further diagnostics might include radiographs to look at arthritic changes and/or arthroscopy, which is a surgical procedure that allows the veterinarian to into the joint and check the menisci, which are two cartilage discs that provide cushioning in the knee joint.

Knee-Injury Treatment

Small dogs may do well with a custom fitted brace or may need a surgery called extracapsular repair in which a suture helps to stabilize the joint until scar tissue takes over that function.

For larger and very active dogs, surgeries involving cutting bones in the joint and repositioning them tend to have the best outcomes. These procedures include tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO) and tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA).

If you choose conservative therapy with a brace, have a custom brace made, which will minimize sores and give your dog the best chance of healing. For older dogs who are not good candidates for surgery, a brace may be the best option regardless of size.

Rehabilitation for Knee Injuries

No matter what treatment you and your veterinarian decide is best for your dog, aftercare is important. Careful postoperative protocols need to be followed exactly as directed by your veterinarian.

Rehabilitation will include passive range of motion exercises (PROM), a schedule of walks that build in distance and hills gradually, and additional exercises such as underwater treadmill. Laser and pulsed electro-magnetic field (PEMF) therapy may be suggested. Joint nutraceuticals may be recommended to support his joints and slow the inevitable development of arthritis. Sadly, 40% to 60% of the dogs who tear one cruciate will eventually tear the other.

Preventing Knee Injuries in Dogs

Your dog’s overall health can impact the likelihood of an injury and successful recovery. Keep your dog at his ideal weight. Look into an exercise program to strengthen his core muscles, including balance exercises, such as work on a wobble board or peanut. Be realistic about your dog’s conformation. As much as you may want to do agility or flyball, you might consider doing scentwork or Rally with your dog to further minimize the risk of injury.

The Right Way to Wash Your Dog’s Bed

By
CJ Puotinen
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A boxer dog in its bed
Dog beds like this one, with stuffing that’s sewed into their bolstered sides (as opposed to the kind with bolsters that can be removed so the empty cover can be washed) sometimes require a commercial washing machine, like the extra-large front-loading washers found in laundromats. Photo by Kate Stoupas, Getty Images

Start laundering your dog’s bed by vacuuming the bed with a brush or upholstery attachment to remove dust, dirt, dander, and dog hair.

Check the bed’s cover for a tag that shows washing instructions or check with the manufacturer. Most removable covers can be hand-washed or placed in the washing machine, and some beds whose covers are not removable can be cleaned in the washer as well. If you find washing instructions, follow them.

Stain and odor removal

Treat stains before washing. Enzyme products such as Unique Pet Care’s Advanced Dog Odor + Stain Remover and Rocco and Roxie’s Extreme Stain & Odor Eliminator bind with and remove traces of urine, vomit, feces, blood, dog drool, musty smells, and doggy odors. Alternatively, these stains can be treated with 1 cup baking soda mixed with 1 cup vinegar and 1 cup water applied as a spray. Let stand 10 minutes and blot dry.

Plant-based laundry detergents are considered dog-friendly because they don’t contain dyes, fragrances, or harsh chemicals. Greenshield Organic Free and Clear Laundry Detergent, Dropps Stain and Odor Detergent, and similar products can clean your dog’s bed, as well as his blankets, vests, sweaters, and fabric leashes and collars.

Washing the bed

If the bed or cover can be machine-washed in hot water with a pet-safe detergent, doing so will help disinfect it. If a cold-water wash is recommended, check your results and run the bed or cover through the washer a second time if necessary.

To hand-wash a dog bed, fill a large sink, tub, or wading pool with warm water and add 1/2 cup baking soda. Soak the bed for 30 minutes, then drain and refill with hot, warm, or cold water, add pet-friendly detergent, and actively press the bed into soapy water for 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse well, then squeeze (don’t wring) the bed to remove water without causing its stuffing to shift or clump. Drain excess water with your washer’s spin cycle or gently roll the bed in large towels and stand on them to release water. Spread the bed outdoors in the shade or indoors with a blowing fan until dry.

How often should you wash the bed?

Some health experts recommend vacuuming a dog bed once a week and washing it once a month, but your best guide will be its condition. When it’s dirty, muddy, or the site of spills or accidents, assemble your cleaning supplies.

Once the bed is dry, keep it spotless and fresh smelling. Frequently sprinkle it with baking soda, let it stand half an hour, then vacuum, or spay and wipe the bed with equal parts vinegar and warm water. Treat new stains as soon as they occur by spot cleaning with a dog-safe stain remover. If the bed’s cover is removable, protect its mattress with an inner liner.

Bulging Eyes in Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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This dog suffered a retrobulbar abscess, a pocket of infection behind her eye, which caused her eye to bulge. These infections can be caused by a dental problem (such as a cracked tooth), a puncture in the mouth (perhaps caused by a splinter from chewing a bone or stick), or the migration of a grass awn (foxtail). It resolved with antibiotics. ©Nancy Kerns

There are a number of reasons for a dog’s eye or eyes to begin bulging unnaturally. If you notice your dog has one or both eyes bulging, or has an oddly colored eye or a strange discharge from the eye—get your dog to your veterinarian as soon as possible. Time is of the essence for saving your dog’s vision. The bulging may be due to a swollen eyeball, which happens with glaucoma; swelling around the eyeball, which happens with infection and allergic reactions; or swelling behind the eyeball, which happens with infections, bleeding, or tumors. Glaucoma is painful, so your dog may act depressed and not want to eat. The eye will be red and look enlarged, the cornea may turn a bluish cloudy color, and there may be vision loss. Glaucoma is a veterinary emergency.

Flat-faced dogs with bulging eyes

Bulging eyes are most common in brachycephalic breeds of dogs—they’re the ones with the cute, smooshed-in faces like the Pug and Boston Terrier. These dogs naturally have shallow orbits, which are the bony sockets in the skull that house the eyeballs. Unfortunately, these dogs are at a higher risk of corneal injury. They are also prone to a terrible situation called proptosis in which the dog’s eyes pop out.

With proptosis, the eyeball pops out of the socket and the eyelids collapse behind it, essentially holding the eye out. This is a disaster that can happen in any dog due to trauma (usually a dog fight or vehicular incident), but it occurs most commonly in brachycephalic breeds due to their shallow sockets. Veterinary personnel are trained to avoid overzealously restraining a brachycephalic dog, as a person could literally pop the dog’s eyeballs out. Although proptosed eyeballs can sometimes be replaced, there is typically permanent damage to the optic nerve, which causes blindness. In most cases, the eyeball is surgically removed.

Bulging eyes in other dogs

Dogs of any breed can experience retrobulbar disease, which can take up enough space behind the eye to push the eyeball forward. This can be painful for the dog when he opens his mouth wide, such as when yawning. If you gently push on the eyeballs with the lids closed, you may notice you can push the normal eye in a bit, but the affected eye doesn’t budge. The most common causes of retrobulbar disease include tumors, abscesses, cysts, and hematomas. Treatment for periorbital disease depends on diagnosis, which usually requires advanced imaging like a CT scan.

An unusual cause of bulging eyes in dogs is extraocular myositis, which is an immune attack on the muscles that hold the eyeball in place. It occurs most frequently in young Golden Retrievers. The dog may appear to have a wide-eyed, surprised look all the time. Immediate veterinary care is needed to avoid permanent damage.

Alopecia In Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Alopecia in Dogs
In true alopecia, the skin is not growing any hair at all, as seen on this dog. Credit: JodiJacobson / Getty Images

Alopecia is the medical term for baldness. In dogs, alopecia refers to areas on the dog’s body that are not growing hair.

Most episodes of seasonal alopecia in dogs are not alopecia at all but routine turnovers of the coat or seasonal shedding. Your dog isn’t down to bare skin, he just looks naked compared to his usual haircoat. This is normal. When you see the hair turning dull and getting tufts or “pluckables,” this is a good time for a warm bath and a blow dry. Removing as much of the dead hair as possible encourages new growth.

You also may have heard of a dog “blowing her coat,” which is seen in many longhair dogs at puberty and in female dogs after a heat or having puppies. In these cases, most of the long guard hairs remain, but the softer, woolier undercoat that is gone. This is not alopecia.

True alopecia means the loss of all hair, and it is almost always secondary to another health problem. Many skin conditions can cause hair loss, including flea allergy, bacterial infections, or fungal infections. In almost all these cases, the skin is red, inflamed, moist, or has pustules and flaking. For these cases of alopecias, you need to diagnose and treat the primary problem, which may require your veterinarian’s help. A medicated shampoo or topical treatment will likely be prescribed. After treatment, the hair will grow back.

Chemotherapy can cause hair loss in some dogs but rarely causes the dramatic loss that many people experience.

Another cause in dogs is hormone or endocrine abnormalities such as Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism). With Cushing’s, your dog will have more clinical signs than just alopecia. He will have skin growths or tags and seborrhea. He will develop a potbelly appearance due to lack of muscle tone. Many dogs will pant and drink and urinate more than usual. Diagnosis will require bloodwork, both a normal chemistry panel plus specific tests for adrenal function. Medical therapy generally involves mitotane or trilostane, which will be required for life. Your dog will need periodic monitoring for side effects and to adjust the dose if needed.

Rarely, alopecia is caused by a poor diet. If this is the case, you will need the help of your veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist to determine if your dog’s diet is deficient in important nutrients.

Dog Cold Weather Gear: Dressing Your Dog for Winter

By
CJ Puotinen
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Two sartorial terriers, Zoe and Zak, on a winter stump in front of Lake Tahoe.
Coats and boots keep your dog warm enough to get sufficient exercise in areas that have snowy or icy winter weather. Without protection like this, few dogs can safely take a really energy-burning, long walk in freezing temperatures. Photo by Patrice Beaumont, Getty Images.

Does your dog need a winter coat? If he spends most of the day indoors, has a thin, short coat, and shivers when it’s chilly, a cold-weather jacket can help him adjust to winter temperatures for cold-weather walks – or even just going outdoors to potty. Make that a raincoat if you live where it’s cold and wet. Most dog raincoats have two layers, a top one for repelling water and an insulating layer for warmth.

All kinds of keep-warm sweaters, vests, coats, jackets, and even whole-body suits for dogs are sold in pet supply stores, department stores, and online. Consider how active your dog will be outdoors and what garment shape, design, and fabric weight will work best. Washable blends of wool or polyester fleece (what “polar fleece” is made of) are popular because they’re comfortable for most dogs and easy to care for.

Before they became canine fashion accessories, jackets were designed for working dogs who spent hours outdoors – and may even swim! – in rain, snow, ice, and cold winds. Most jackets or vests for sporting and hunting dogs who need insulation when wet are made of neoprene – the same material used to make diving wetsuits for humans. If your dog joins you for hours of wet outdoor walks, search for a vest or jacket made with neoprene.

Measure For a Good Fit

Use a tape measure (the fabric kind used for sewing) to measure for a sweater, vest, coat, or jacket that will cover the dog’s chest and back. With the dog standing still with head up, measure:

  • Neck circumference, as for a collar.
  • From the collar down the spine to the base of the tail.
  • Around the chest directly behind the front legs.

Compare measurements to the manufacturer’s size chart. Some sellers list sizes based on your dog’s breed.

Dog Boots and Socks

Ice and snow, and rock salt and other ice-melting chemicals are hard on a dog’s feet, so consider keeping them warm and dry with the right footwear. The best dog boots are flexible, water-resistant, grip the ground with textured soles, and have adjustable Velcro straps. Popular brands include Kurgo, SaltSox, and Muttluks. Check size guidelines and measure before ordering. Most dogs dislike booties at first, so introduce them indoors for short periods or start by having your dog get used to indoor dog socks, which are designed with a non-skid surface to help older or injured dogs improve mobility.

Dog Snoods for Extra Winter Coverage

A snood looks like an extended hat that covers the head, ears, and neck, protecting them from wind, rain, and cold weather. One source is The Snood Factory, which makes snoods especially for breeds with long hair and long ears (but which are helpful winter wear for any dog at risk of frostbite!) or search online for dog snoods.

Dog Heating Pads

Heated dog beds, warming pads, and self-heating (non-electric) pads can help an arthritic, elderly, or simply cold dog or puppy feel comfortable, indoors or out. The best electric pads have chew-proof cords, timers that shut off automatically (or mechanisms that heat only when weighted by a dog), washable covers, and a heat limit that protects dogs against overheating. They come in different sizes and are clearly labeled for indoor or outdoor use. See K&H Pet Products or search Amazon, Chewy, and other suppliers for Riogoo, Frisco, Aspen, and similar brands.

Buy This Book!

By
Nancy Kerns
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doggie language book
Doggie Language by Lili Chin is a great resource for any dog lover! ©Nancy Kerns

I recently asked one of our regular contributors to write an article explaining why dogs might display a teeth-chattering behavior. The article came back, and then it was my turn to look for a photograph of a dog with chattering teeth to accompany the article.

I spent HOURS looking through stock photos of dogs online, and as well as through the thousands of my own stock photos of dogs, which I’ve been taking for the more than 25 years that I’ve been editing WDJ. I have spent many hours taking photos of dogs in dog parks, and I thought the chances were good that I would find a frame of a dog with chattering teeth in those photos; I know I have observed the behavior at dog parks before. But – no luck. I couldn’t find a single frame of a dog whose mouth even slightly resembled the posture of teeth-chattering.

Then I remembered a very valuable resource about dog body language: Doggie Language: A Dog Lover’s Guide to Understanding Your Best Friend, by Lili Chin, dog illustrator extraordinaire. I just knew the behavior would be in the book, which I promoted in our 2021 “Gear of the Year” feature.

It turned out, that while Chin has captured and succinctly explained most of the critically important canine postures that all dog owners should know, from friendly nose touches to stiff, narrowly wagging tails, “chattering teeth” was not illustrated! But I’m aware that Chin has collaborated with and drawn educational dog-behavior illustrations for many professional force-free dog trainers, and offers these in poster form on her website, doggiedrawings.net. I looked through these for a while; there are some great infographics there! But nothing on teeth-chattering.

I was despondent, for a minute. But then I thought: “I’ll write to Lili! I’ll ask her if she has ever illustrated this anywhere ever before, and if I can use that illustration!”

And I did.

And she hadn’t.

But then, 15 minutes later, she sent me a note that said, “How is my five-minute effort?” with this:

dog teeth chattering illustration
Illustration by Lili Chin.

It’s perfect!  It captures a dog’s anxious expression, with softly flattened ears, a tentative posture, barely wagging tail, and a slightly puckered mouth – just how dogs often look when they chatter their teeth, whether that’s due to anxiety, or because they just smelled something interesting (like another dog’s urine), or because they are genuinely cold!

Doggie Language Is a Terrific Resource

Chin’s talent for capturing complex canine behavior in a simple illustration inspired me to recommend her book again now, at the perfect gift-giving time of year: it’s not expensive and it is easily procured (available anywhere books are sold, and if you want a signed copy, available from doggielanguagebook.com). It’s a great gift for anyone who loves dogs or has a new dog. It’s also available in 16 languages!

Ignore the fact that Doggie Language doesn’t cover “teeth chattering” – it’s a pretty subtle and not-very-common behavior. What the book does depict, with clear and simple illustrations and very brief explanations, are the most important words and phrases that dogs are telling us with their body language. Any trainer can tell you that few owners perceive the many signs of stress in their dogs – early warnings that they need space (and might bite to get it). How does a dog look when they are truly interested in exchanging affection with a person? How can you tell which dog is excited and friendly dog and which one is frantic and frustrated? Even a young child can recognize the differences using Chin’s illustrations and descriptions.

And, before I forget, if your dog sometimes chatters his teeth, and you want to learn more about that behavior, read “Chatter of Fact” here.

Do I Need a Dog Feeding Schedule?

By
John Strassburger
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Dog waiting for feeding
For most adult dogs, a twice-a-day feeding schedule—12 hours apart—works best. Credit: Chalabala / Getty Images

Dogs like regular schedules, and that includes your dog’s feeding schedule. Most veterinarians recommend that dogs eat twice a day, approximately 12 hours apart. If it’s longer, you could cause nausea, as he gets hungry just like people do.

Feed your healthy adult dog twice a day. There is no best time to feed a dog. The time of day doesn’t matter as much as the time between meals. You can feed him at 5 p.m. or 9:30 p.m., provided you feed him at a roughly corresponding time the next morning. Don’t feed him at 6 p.m. on Friday night and then not until you wake up at 11:30 Saturday morning. If you need to change your dog’s feeding schedule, gradual changes over the course of 4 to 7 days are best.

You may need to adjust your dog feeding schedule by age or illness. Some canines, like puppies, seniors, nursing moms, and working/sporting dogs, need a lot of calories to maintain their weight and may need to be fed more often to accomplish that because you don’t want to overfeed him at a feeding. Some puppies need to eat four to six times a day.

If you do need to feed your dog more often, remember to feed smaller portions each time so you don’t overfeed him. If your dog needs four cups of food a day, and you feed him twice a day, that’s two cups in each feeding. If he cannot consume that much food at once, then you take the four cups and divide it evenly between the feedings.

Don’t feed your dog once a day, assuming he will eat when he’s hungry, sort of “free-choice.” He won’t. It’s most likely he’ll wolf it all down at once and be hungry 12 hours later. Free-choice feeding can make dog fat, and it can cause fights if you have more than one dog.

Feeding twice a day is an easy way to check on a dog’s health or to prepare him to adapt to changes, such as traveling or changing dog food. Two meals a day provides him with the stability he craves in his life, a tasty cornerstone that he can rely on. Feeding can also be a bonding moment between you and your dog.

Can Dogs Eat Corn?

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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Dog running over harvested corn field in front of clouds.
Corn in dog food is ground, so your dog benefits from its nutrients. Corn on the cob is whole, so it is not well digested. In addition, corn cobs are not at all digestible and can make your dog sick. Credit: K_Thalhofer / Getty Images

Your dog can eat corn. Corn is a common a common ingredient in human foods, as well as pet foods. Corn in dog foods can be controversial, and some people claim that “corn is bad.” However, corn is not a filler in dog food; corn provides nutrition including carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins, antioxidants, and protein. So, why do people wonder if their dogs can eat corn? The main concerns with feeding corn to dogs are:

  • Dietary sensitivity to corn. While it is possible for a dog to have a sensitivity to corn that might cause gut or skin problems, most food sensitivities involve a protein. Corn is a carbohydrate. The most common dietary sensitivities in dogs are beef and chicken.
  • Concerns about a genetically modified organism (GMO) safety. Much of the corn grown today have tweaked DNA to give it better resistance against disease or environmental extremes. This results in a higher yield per acre. People fear GMOs because they are perceived as not natural, since the genetic modification occurs in a laboratory. While safety studies comparing GMO foods to “natural” foods are ongoing, none have clearly demonstrated a harmful trend.
  • Corn is thought to be not digestible. Corn kernels can be spotted in dog poop, leading to the thought that corn is not digestible. If a dog eats whole corn kernels, the outer casing of the kernel keeps the corn from effectively being digested, so they can be seen largely undigested coming out the other end. The corn in dog foods is ground to make it easier for the dog to absorb its nutrients.

A note of caution: Dogs cannot eat corn cobs. Corn cobs are not digestible. When a dog eats a corn cob, he risks choking or intestinal blockage (symptoms include vomiting, decreased appetite, diarrhea). Don’t give your dog corn cobs to chew, and don’t let them get into the garbage that contain corn cobs. If you hike ear crop land, don’t let your dogs eat or chew any leftovers that didn’t get harvested. If you are concerned that your dog has eaten corn cobs, contact your dog’s veterinarian.

What about popcorn? If you want to share popcorn with your dog, you can, but in moderation. Air-popped is best, as too much salt, butter, or other flavoring agents can give your dog a tummy ache.

How to Get a Urine Sample from a Dog

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Yellow Labrador retriever dog lifting leg to urinate in a grassy field
Male dogs who are happy to pee wherever the urge strikes make it pretty easy to get a clean urine catch. Dogs who squat are more challenging. Credit: Heather Paul / Getty Images

How much dog urine is needed for a sample? Not that much! Believe it or not, a teaspoon (5 milliliters) is enough to run a urinalysis. So even if it looks like you didn’t get much, bring it in to see if your veterinarian says it’s enough.

How to get a urine sample? Start by choosing a low-profile, large diameter container that is clean and dry. A foil pie plate works well. With the larger diameter, it’s easier to get under the dog and your aim doesn’t have to be spot on. Just nonchalantly get it in the general vicinity and you’ll usually be successful. Then pour the sample into a clean, dry, leakproof container and get it to your veterinarian ASAP.

It’s easy to get a urine sample from a dog, although you do need to be quick. Most male dogs who pee all the time, lift their leg, and don’t particularly care about potty privacy or personal space while urinating. The taller the dog, the easier. Females, puppies who squat, and male dogs who squat are a little tougher. But you can do it.

Smaller female dogs who squat low to the ground may take offense when you approach them while urinating. Try for first thing in the morning when you know her bladder is full. Make sure she is on a four- to six-foot lead, so she can’t get that far away from you and you’re not frantically running at her when she squats. If you are agile enough to squat, try the nonchalant pie plate approach described above. If you can’t physically get low enough, you can either purchase a canine urine collection kit, which looks like a saucer on the end of a pole, or you can duct tape a soup ladle to the end of a pole. Remember, whatever you use must be clean and dry.

If you can’t get the sample, don’t panic. When necessary, your veterinarian can collect a sample from your dog either straight from the bladder with a needle (cystocentesis) or via urethral catheterization.

The fresher the specimen, the more accurate the information is for your veterinarian. It’s not a bad idea to drive your dog over to the clinic and catch your sample right outside. If you’d rather not do that, plan to collect your sample when you can get to the clinic within a few hours. If you can’t get to the clinic right away, store the urine sample in the refrigerator, and be sure to let your vet know what time it was collected.

Skin Lesions and Cancer

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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lump on a dog face
Of course, a big lump like the one on this dog’s face doesn’t develop overnight – but some types of lesions may be present though small for months or years and then suddenly swell in size. When you notice the emergence of a new lump, or a sudden change in the size or appearance of an old one, make an appointment to see your vet as soon as possible. Every type of potentially dangerous tumor is better diagnosed and removed sooner than later. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Finding a skin lesion or lump that was not there the last time you caressed your dog can instantly transform your mood from contented to fearful. Is it cancer? Many skin lesions and lumps look cancerous.

If it’s any comfort, you should know that few skin lesions turn out to be cancer – but that said, anything that is new or that has recently changed should be brought to the attention of your dog’s veterinarian, who can determine what’s up with the lump.

The veterinarian will examine the skin lesion, check your dog for any other lesions, and obtain a history from you about other relevant aspects of your dog’s health.

Although some skin lesions have a characteristic appearance that helps a veterinarian identify them as the most likely type of lesion or tumor, a definitive diagnosis can be made only by fine needle aspirate (FNA) with cytology (examining some of the cells that were removed with the needle under a microscope) or biopsy with histopathology (removing some tissue from the lesion and examining it under a microscope).

(See sidebar “Cytology and Biopsy,” for more information about how samples of your dog’s lesion may be collected and examined in pursuit of a diagnosis.)

Common Canine skin lesions

As you read this section about the most common skin lesions found on dogs, keep in mind that they may sound lethal, but that’s not necessarily so. Learning about them and understanding the best course of action for each will help lessen your fears. This information is designed to help you discuss the lesions with your veterinarian, so the two of you can determine what’s best for your dog.

  • Benign lipomas

Often referred to as “fatty tumors,” benign lipomas are solitary deposits of fat underneath the skin. They are round, smooth, and a little squishy. These are not cancerous tumors and do not need to be removed unless they are impairing a dog’s ability to move.

Benign lipomas can grow anywhere on the body, but are predominantly found on the chest, belly, and upper limbs. They begin as small masses, often the size of a marble or golf ball. Some lipomas change very little in size over a dog’s lifetime but some can grow to be the size of a cantaloupe.

  • Mast cell tumors

Mast cells are white blood cells; they are found in many areas of the body but are particularly prevalent in the skin. They are one of the cells involved in allergic responses and release histamine when activated.

A mast cell tumor is a proliferation of mast cells that forms a nodule on the skin. These tumors can be flat or raised; flesh-colored, pink, or red; and may be ulcerated. They may grow rapidly in as little as a week or may remain unchanged in size for months.

If your veterinarian suspects that your dog’s lesion is a mast cell tumor, an injection of diphenhydramine (Benadryl) may be given before aspirating it. When a mast cell tumor is poked or disturbed, it may release large amounts of histamine. This can cause anaphylaxis (a life-threatening allergic reaction)or can lead to the development of stomach ulcers. Diphenhydramine minimizes the risk of these events. Your veterinarian also may instruct you on how much Benadryl to give at home until the cytology results have been returned.

Mast cell tumors are often successfully diagnosed by FNA and cytology. But determining if the mast cell tumor is low grade or high grade requires biopsy and histopathology. Your vet will likely recommend surgical excision of the lesion if it is determined to be a mast cell tumor.

Mast cell tumors tend to have longer, microscopic roots traveling underneath the skin than other types of skin lesions. Your veterinarian may recommend that your dog see a board-certified veterinary surgeon for removal of the mass so that wider surgical margins can be obtained.

Mast cell tumors are more likely to be a low grade tumor than a high grade tumor. Low grade tumors are typically cured with complete surgical excision. High grade tumors are more likely to recur, either in the same location or in different locations. Dogs that have a high grade mast cell tumor would benefit from a consultation with an oncologist and may require chemotherapy with or without radiation therapy.

Although we do not know what causes mast cell tumors to grow, there appears to be some genetic mutations that increase the risk for developing mast cell tumors. Certain breeds of dogs – like the Boxer, Boston Terrier, and Labrador Retriever – are at increased risk for mast cell tumors.

Mast cell tumors can also affect the nail bed and internal organs, such as the spleen.

  • Cutaneous histiocytomas

Like mast cells, a cutaneous histiocytoma is a proliferation of cells involved with the immune system. Instead of mast cells, however, histiocytomas are composed of a histiocyte called a Langerhans cell.

This is a benign tumor that often has a similar appearance to mast cell tumors. Histiocytomas are most commonly found in dogs less than 6 years old. They initially grow rapidly and then often remain the same size until they spontaneously regress and disappear a few months later.

Histiocytomas are often readily diagnosed by FNA and cytology. Because they can appear similar to mast cell tumors, it is important to complete this diagnostic test to confirm the type of lesion. If the lesion is a histiocytoma, no further intervention is necessary. It will regress and resolve on its own.

  • Squamous cell carcinomas

Squamous cell carcinomas are tumors of the squamous cells in the epidermis, or top layer of skin. This tumor can be a small, raised area on the skin surface that looks like a wart but is often red, irritated, or ulcerated.

Squamous cell carcinoma is most often found on areas of the body that have a thinner hair coat, like the ears, near the lips or along the top of the nose, and the underside of the belly. Dogs with short-haired coats, and particularly those with light-colored coats, are at increased risk for developing squamous cell carcinoma.

Although the direct cause of squamous cell carcinoma is unknown, it is suspected that exposure to sunlight and other forms of ultraviolet (UV) light increases the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma.

Squamous cell carcinoma often appears as a single lesion on the skin. Surgical removal of the tumor is the treatment of choice as these tumors tend to be locally invasive and don’t typically spread.

There are two forms of squamous cell carcinoma that are more serious than the singular lesions that can appear on a dog’s skin. The first is multicentric squamous cell carcinoma. This is a very rare condition of dogs in which more than one lesion appears on multiple areas of the body.

The second is squamous cell carcinoma of the nail bed. This appears first as a swollen digit and can cause deformation or loss of the claw. This form of squamous cell carcinoma is metastatic, meaning that it can spread to other areas of the body, such as the lungs. Presurgical staging and amputation of the affected digit is often recommended.

  • Melanomas

Melanoma is a type of skin cancer that is derived from the abnormal growth of melanocytes, the pigmented cells of the skin. Although we don’t know the cause of melanomas in dogs, there is an association between high levels of UV exposure and the development of melanomas in humans.

There are three different forms of melanoma in dogs. Cutaneous melanoma is typically a brown or black lesion that has a flat or wrinkled appearance. There is a form of this melanoma called amelanotic melanoma that contains no pigment and may be flesh-colored. Cutaneous melanoma tends to be benign in dogs and surgical excision of the skin lesion is typically curative.

The other two types of melanoma in dogs are oral melanoma and digit melanoma. These are typically malignant tumors that can spread to other areas of the body. Treatment includes extensive surgical excision of the mass; for an affected digit, this includes amputation. Histopathology of the tumor can determine the grade of melanoma and appropriate follow-up care with an oncologist. A melanoma vaccine called ONCEPT may be recommended to train your dog’s immune system to find and eliminate malignant melanoma cells.

Melanoma tumors do not exfoliate well when aspirated. If your veterinarian suspects that a lesion may be a melanoma, then a surgical incisional or excisional biopsy may be recommended instead of an FNA.

  • Glandular and follicular tumors

These are tumors that arise from the glands within the skin or from within the hair follicle. They look like a fleshy, raised irregular growth and are often called warts because of their appearance.

These tumors can grow and shrink in size over time. When the tumor grows, it often fills with a thick caseous fluid that resembles cottage cheese. The tumor will often burst, or erupt, releasing this thick fluid. As the tumor dries out, it shrinks but never completely disappears.

Glandular and follicular tumors are typically benign but can be malignant in rare cases. An FNA of the mass will often confirm that it is a glandular or follicular tumor but is usually not good at determining if it is malignant or benign. Surgical excision with histopathology of the mass is often needed to confirm the type and determine if follow-up care with an oncologist is necessary.

  • Cutaneous lymphoma

Lymphoma is a cancer of lymphocytes, which are a type of white blood cell. When we think of lymphoma in dogs, we often think of the condition that causes enlarged, painful lymph nodes or that creates tumors on the spleen, liver, or other organs in the abdomen or chest. However, lymphoma can appear anywhere there are lymphocytes; this includes the skin.

Cutaneous lymphoma appears as small red patches on the skin that are often circular or oval shape. These patches may look irritated or ulcerated. They can look similar to skin lesions caused by other diseases, like atopic dermatitis. The cause of cutaneous lymphoma is unknown.

Dogs with cutaneous lymphoma may have decreased energy and appetite. Cutaneous lymphoma can produce a protein that increases the calcium level in a dog’s blood. The increased calcium causes the dog to drink more water and urinate more.

Cutaneous lymphoma is diagnosed by incisional biopsy of one or more skin lesions. The treatment of choice is chemotherapy.

  • Fibrosarcomas

A fibrosarcoma is a tumor of the connective tissue in the body. Connective tissue is found in many areas of the body, including the skin.

A fibrosarcoma may appear as a firm nodule within or just underneath the skin. The skin over the mass will likely appear normal, but the mass will feel like a firm nodule the size of a pea or a marble.

Although the cause of fibrosarcomas is not known, it is suspected that previous trauma is a potential risk factor. Previous trauma may include an injury to the skin, foreign material (like a grass awn or foxtail) within or just underneath the skin, or any type of injection (this is more common in cats than dogs).

Most fibrosarcomas in dogs are benign and slow to grow. However, even benign fibrosarcomas tend to be locally invasive. It is best to surgically remove this type of tumor when it is small and can be more easily removed. Pre-surgical staging may be necessary to determine the extent of the tumor. Referral to a board-certified veterinary surgeon may be recommended to achieve the best possible outcome.

Don’t panic!

Finding a new skin lesion on your dog can be concerning. Thankfully, most skin lesions are benign but should be addressed in a timely manner. Your veterinarian will guide you through the process of diagnosing and treating any new skin lesion you find.

Cytology and Biopsy

Fine needle aspiration (FNA) involves inserting a needle into the lesion to obtain a sample of cells. The sample is sprayed onto a slide and submitted to a laboratory for a veterinary pathologist to read. The needle used to obtain the sample is no bigger than the one used to give your dog a vaccine. Your dog will feel only a small pinch during the FNA procedure.

The cytology will return one of three results: a definitive answer as to the type of lesion; the class of lesion but no information about whether it is benign or malignant; or no definitive answer at all. Some lesions do not exfoliate well – they don’t release any intact cells to examine. Other lesions bleed easily when they are aspirated. When this happens, there is so much blood present on the slide that cells from the lesion cannot readily be seen under a microscope. This is called hemodilution.

Surgical biopsy (also called an incisional biopsy) is where a sample of the skin lesion is surgically removed. An incisional biopsy may be recommended if the lesion is in a location where removing all of it may be difficult or if there are multiple lesions that appear identical. The sample is sent out to the laboratory for histopathology (examination under a microscope after they have been stained with dye).

Surgical excision (also called an excisional biopsy) is where the entire skin lesion is removed and sent out for histopathology. Your veterinarian will need to make an elliptical incision around the lesion that is at least 1 centimeter wider on either side to remove all of the lesion. Skin lesions tend to extend their roots underneath the skin’s surface, much like a tree extends its roots below the ground. An elliptical incision is easier to close with a better cosmetic outcome than a circular incision.

Histopathology of the lesion helps to determine what additional treatments may be necessary. For an incisional biopsy sample, histopathology determines if the lesion needs to completely removed and if any presurgical imaging is required, such as radiographs, ultrasound, or CT scan. For an excisional biopsy, histopathology determines if clean margins were obtained when removing the lesion. It also helps guide any need for oncology care or further monitoring following removal of the lesion.

Chatter of Fact: Why Do Dogs Chatter Their Teeth?

By
Stephanie Colman
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0
dog chattering graphic

Not all dogs chatter their teeth, and the ones that do tend to do it infrequently and unpredictably, so finding a photograph of a dog chattering away proved impossible for us! Perhaps the most consistent occurrence of the behavior happens (sometimes) when a dog sniffs the urine of another dog. Illustration by Lili Chin, doggiedrawings.net

Not all dogs will chatter their teeth. But among those who do, it can happen for a variety of reasons, including:

General excitement or anticipation. Think about when your dog is most likely to chatter her teeth. Is it part of her “happy dance” routine as you pick up the leash for a walk or as he happily greets you when you return from work? What about when you’re about to throw a favorite toy or as you prepare a meal?

If any of these scenarios sound familiar, the chattering is likely from excitement and is nothing to worry about. Enjoy it for the endearing quirk that it is.

In response to an amazing smell. Has your dog ever chattered his teeth after sniffing the ground where other dogs have been? Dogs rely heavily on scent to navigate the world, and they have highly developed scenting systems. This includes the vomeronasal organ (also known as the Jacobson’s organ), which is located inside the nasal cavity and opens at the roof of the mouth. Chattering his teeth and using his tongue can move scent molecules into the vomeronasal organ where they can be deciphered by your dog. When a dog does this after smelling the urine of another dog, this is known as the “flehman response.”

Again, it’s nothing to worry about.

Low body temperature. Like us, dogs will shiver when cold. A shiver happens when muscles in the body rapidly contract and relax to create energy to help warm the body. This can include jaw twitches and spasms that make the teeth chatter. Young dogs, elderly dogs, breeds with very little body fat, and toy breeds can have a harder time generating enough heat to maintain proper body temperature in cold conditions.

If your pup’s teeth chatter when the temperature drops, try a well-fitting sweater to keep him comfortable – nobody likes to be cold! (And of course, don’t leave your dog outside unprotected from the elements in inclement weather.)

Medical reasons. Since our dogs can’t tell us what’s bothering them, it’s important that we pay attention to their behavior and body language, as it can often offer clues about how they’re feeling.

Teeth chattering in the absence of an exciting situation, amazing smell, or chilly conditions could be a sign of pain, a dental issue or a neurological issue, and it’s a good idea to schedule a vet visit to help determine the cause and keep your dog comfortable.

Disregard the 3-3-3 Rule

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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12
Family taking home a dog from the animal shelter giving new home
This family is clearly happy to have adopted a new dog – but they are doing everything wrong to welcome him to their family, whether it’s day 1, 3, or 33! A dog should not be greeted in a scrum and should never be forcibly restrained when meeting new people or dogs. Having just one person reach to pet the top of the dog’s head is a mistake; having the whole family do it at the same time is begging for a dog bite. Until the dog shows that he’s comfortable with your family, give him space and allow him to greet people at his own pace. The slower you move, the more quickly he can decompress. Photo © kzenon | Getty Images

Have you heard about the 3-3-3 decompression rule? We’ve seen memes about it everywhere on social media. It says your new dog will likely feel overwhelmed for the first three days, will settle in and feel more comfortable in your home by the end of three weeks, and after three months will be feeling secure in her new home. By this time, according to the adage, you and your dog will have developed a secure loving bond and trusting relationship.

This sounds lovely – but there is a huge problem with it. It’s a formula, and dogs are living, thinking, sentient individuals who don’t follow formulas.

Certainly there is wisdom in the advice to give your dog time to settle in. He needs time to recover from the stress of life in a shelter kennel or foster home – and then adoption and rehoming! There is no doubt that most dogs will go through an adjustment period when they come to live with you. It’s important to know this before you adopt a dog; your new canine family member may ultimately act very differently than when you first met her.

Phases of a rehomed dog’s decompression

Rather than set expectations for specific time frames, let’s discuss how to help your new dog cope during three big adjustment phases:

  • The Shellshock Phase. When you first bring her home, your dog may be overwhelmed. She may shut down, refuse to eat or drink, soil her crate, vocalize, try to escape, and/or otherwise behave inappropriately. And it may take her much longer than three days to get through this phase! Try to let go of any forecasts you’ve heard for how long it will take for her to decompress and de-stress.

Do everything you can to minimize her stress: Give her space; don’t overwhelm her with attention; remove anything that is obviously fear-causing; be calm, quiet, and gentle with her; and do everything slowly – for as long as it takes. (Note that some dogs skip this phase altogether and walk in your door and start behaving as if they have lived with you their whole lives; that’s the best! – but not that common.)

  • The Settle-In Phase. Your dog has worked through her initial stress and is settling in, getting used to the routine and opening up more. If she was shut down in the first phase, you’ll likely see new behaviors now – the “real” dog! Some of these behaviors may be undesirable ones, so you might have to increase your management. On the plus side, now that she’s more comfortable, you can interact with her more and begin your force-free training program.
  • The Rest-Of-Her-Life Phase. Your dog has settled into her new life, and the two of you truly have that secure, loving bond and trusting relationship. It may have taken three months – or three years! In any case, enjoy the rest of your lives together.
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