Not all dogs chatter their teeth, and the ones that do tend to do it infrequently and unpredictably, so finding a photograph of a dog chattering away proved impossible for us! Perhaps the most consistent occurrence of the behavior happens (sometimes) when a dog sniffs the urine of another dog. Illustration by Lili Chin, doggiedrawings.net
Not all dogs will chatter their teeth. But among those who do, it can happen for a variety of reasons, including:
General excitement or anticipation. Think about when your dog is most likely to chatter her teeth. Is it part of her “happy dance” routine as you pick up the leash for a walk or as he happily greets you when you return from work? What about when you’re about to throw a favorite toy or as you prepare a meal?
If any of these scenarios sound familiar, the chattering is likely from excitement and is nothing to worry about. Enjoy it for the endearing quirk that it is.
In response to an amazing smell. Has your dog ever chattered his teeth after sniffing the ground where other dogs have been? Dogs rely heavily on scent to navigate the world, and they have highly developed scenting systems. This includes the vomeronasal organ (also known as the Jacobson’s organ), which is located inside the nasal cavity and opens at the roof of the mouth. Chattering his teeth and using his tongue can move scent molecules into the vomeronasal organ where they can be deciphered by your dog. When a dog does this after smelling the urine of another dog, this is known as the “flehman response.”
Again, it’s nothing to worry about.
Low body temperature. Like us, dogs will shiver when cold. A shiver happens when muscles in the body rapidly contract and relax to create energy to help warm the body. This can include jaw twitches and spasms that make the teeth chatter. Young dogs, elderly dogs, breeds with very little body fat, and toy breeds can have a harder time generating enough heat to maintain proper body temperature in cold conditions.
If your pup’s teeth chatter when the temperature drops, try a well-fitting sweater to keep him comfortable – nobody likes to be cold! (And of course, don’t leave your dog outside unprotected from the elements in inclement weather.)
Medical reasons. Since our dogs can’t tell us what’s bothering them, it’s important that we pay attention to their behavior and body language, as it can often offer clues about how they’re feeling.
Teeth chattering in the absence of an exciting situation, amazing smell, or chilly conditions could be a sign of pain, a dental issue or a neurological issue, and it’s a good idea to schedule a vet visit to help determine the cause and keep your dog comfortable.
Have you heard about the 3-3-3 decompression rule? We’ve seen memes about it everywhere on social media. It says your new dog will likely feel overwhelmed for the first three days, will settle in and feel more comfortable in your home by the end of three weeks, and after three months will be feeling secure in her new home. By this time, according to the adage, you and your dog will have developed a secure loving bond and trusting relationship.
This sounds lovely – but there is a huge problem with it. It’s a formula, and dogs are living, thinking, sentient individuals who don’t follow formulas.
Certainly there is wisdom in the advice to give your dog time to settle in. He needs time to recover from the stress of life in a shelter kennel or foster home – and then adoption and rehoming! There is no doubt that most dogs will go through an adjustment period when they come to live with you. It’s important to know this before you adopt a dog; your new canine family member may ultimately act very differently than when you first met her.
Phases of a rehomed dog’s decompression
Rather than set expectations for specific time frames, let’s discuss how to help your new dog cope during three big adjustment phases:
The Shellshock Phase. When you first bring her home, your dog may be overwhelmed. She may shut down, refuse to eat or drink, soil her crate, vocalize, try to escape, and/or otherwise behave inappropriately. And it may take her much longer than three days to get through this phase! Try to let go of any forecasts you’ve heard for how long it will take for her to decompress and de-stress.
Do everything you can to minimize her stress: Give her space; don’t overwhelm her with attention; remove anything that is obviously fear-causing; be calm, quiet, and gentle with her; and do everything slowly – for as long as it takes. (Note that some dogs skip this phase altogether and walk in your door and start behaving as if they have lived with you their whole lives; that’s the best! – but not that common.)
The Settle-In Phase. Your dog has worked through her initial stress and is settling in, getting used to the routine and opening up more. If she was shut down in the first phase, you’ll likely see new behaviors now – the “real” dog! Some of these behaviors may be undesirable ones, so you might have to increase your management. On the plus side, now that she’s more comfortable, you can interact with her more and begin your force-free training program.
The Rest-Of-Her-Life Phase. Your dog has settled into her new life, and the two of you truly have that secure, loving bond and trusting relationship. It may have taken three months – or three years! In any case, enjoy the rest of your lives together.
No one likes trimming their dogs’ nails. But it has to be done. Owning multiple dogs makes it worse! But when I notice everyone click, click, clicking across my kitchen floor, or take a picture of them where their nails look long, I often stop what I’m doing on the spot and grab the clippers.
Old dogs’ nails grow the fastest – or do they? No, it just seems that way with older dogs. They are likely growing at the same rate as ever, but because senior dogs exercise less, and move more carefully, they wear their nails down less, making it necessary to trim those crusty, thick, old nails more often.
The nails of older dogs do seem to grow thicker and stronger with age, making them (especially in big dogs) more difficult to cut, or take longer to Dremel. Ugh! I just realized, however, that I don’t remember when I bought the clippers I’m using; they have probably gotten dull with age. As soon as I’m done clipping everyone’s nails today, I’m ordering some new clippers.
I own a variety of nail-trimming tools, picked up for various uses (and articles) at various times. I use a Dremel grinding tool to smooth and shape the nails after I cut cut them with a plier-style trimmer. I loathe the guillotine-style trimmers, where you have to poke the nail to be cut through a little window before squeezing the handles to slice through the nail. They cut really well, but getting the nail through that little hole and keeping it still long enough, in just the right spot for the slice – well, in my experience, dogs often jerk or move just enough to cause an over-aggressive slice into the quick. Ouch! And while I own a nice nail grinder, I don’t like to use the grinder alone to shorten my dog’s nails. You have to be super careful to grind for only a second or two, and then back away the grinder away for a second or two, in a repetitive grind-release, grind-release motion, or the nail you are grinding gets HOT and causes a burning sensation to the dog.
As I trim the nails of 15-year-old Otto, I notice that his front nails are longer than those of my other two dogs – but the nails on his back feet don’t need any trimming at all. This is likely because his nails get a tiny scraping whenever he fails to completely lift his back feet as he walks. Dogs with serious injuries or partial paralysis who drag one or both of their hind legs visibly often need to wear something on their hind feet to protect the nails (and even the toes themselves) from getting worn down to the point of pain. The wear on Otto’s back nails confirms what I see as the highly arthritic senior walk around my property; he’s not lifting his back feet all the way off the ground all the time. Fortunately, the growth of the back nails is keeping pace with the wear; I can skip clipping those nails but don’t need to order protective booties at this time.
Most of 7-year-old Woody’s nails are white. This makes clipping them a pleasure, because I can readily see the “quick” through the nail, and can clip them fairly short without risk of hurting him with an errant snip. However, white nails tend to be softer and more breakable; they seem to at a higher risk of breaking or tearing, something he’s done more than once – and which always seems to happen the minute I think to myself, “Ooh, Woody’s nails are getting long. I should trim them.” (See this article, which features a gruesome picture of one of his broken nails.) That’s probably why he’s the best sport I have about getting his pedicures; he’s been “quicked” the least.
At almost 1-year-old, Boone’s nails are still pointy and puppy-like. As black as they are, and growing thicker with age, it’s still easy to clip through them – when he holds still. I haven’t quicked him yet; he just hates having his feet handled. We’ve been working on that since he was a chunky little puppy with a propensity for collecting clover burrs in the bottoms of his fuzzy feet. He’s still learning to cooperate for nail trims, and requires a treat for every single nail I clip. If I try to trim two in a row, he yanks his paw away and gives me an aggrieved look. The deal we’ve agreed upon over the past few months is one nail, one treat, and he’s not re-negotiating the terms any time soon. Fair enough.
At least all my dogs are big and do wear their nails a reasonable amount; I have to trim them only about every three to four weeks. Woody’s best little buddy Samson, who doesn’t weigh quite five pounds, needs his nails trimmed every other week. I think it’s because he’s so light, he doesn’t tread on his nails with enough pressure to wear them even one iota! As a result, his nails always are a bit too long.
The only time they get trimmed back to a painful but proper length is when he’s gone under anesthesia for a dental and the vet staff took the opportunity to get close to, or even into the quick. But it’s really difficult to maintain them at that length; I think his owner would have to be using a Dremel grinder on them once or twice a week – and like many little dogs, he is not the least bit cooperative about this. Why it’s so difficult to convince tiny dogs to hold still for nail trims, I do not know, but my friend has found that it works best to take Samson to a groomer. He’s much more compliant for strangers.
I was talking with a client at my friend’s training business recently, who said she has to administer Trazodone to her 10-year-old miniature Australian Shepherd before each vet, grooming, or nail appointment. She adopted the dog as a rescue from a breeding facility, where the little dog received zero socialization and exposure to the world, and is highly fearful about handling and novel situations. That’s quite a committed owner, taking on that extra expense to keep the little dog from being traumatized by being forcibly restrained for routine care procedures.
Most owners can learn how to trim their own dogs nails, and with patience, most dogs can be taught to cooperate for nail trims (here’s how), but I don’t judge anyone who takes their dogs to a groomer or vet for nail trims – however it gets done most easily and most often is the best way, for the health of your dog’s feet and for his comfort!
The first issue of WDJ was published in 1998. A month after the first issue came out, my son turned 6 years old; later that year, my Border Collie, Rupert, turned 9 years old. Rupie made it to 14 years old. After his death, I took a break and only fostered dogs and puppies for a couple years before I adopted Otto, seen with me in the photo here (and illustrated on the cover masthead).
Otto just turned 15 years old. I’m not certain he will be here in January for the first issue in our 26th year of publication – but he might! He’s increasingly rickety and nearly totally deaf, but he’s still grousing at the younger dogs and running (slowly) to bark at the gate when he sees a mail truck, cleaning up all his food, and giving me a big “Wuhwoooooo!” when I come home, so he just might!
As I write this, I’m putting plans in place for a friend to care for Otto and almost 1-year-old Boone while I’m out of town for my son’s wedding. I’ve rented a house where my extended family can all stay together over a long weekend of wedding-related fun. My now 7-year-old dog Woody gets to join us in the rented home, because he’s my most dependable dog with kids. He loves, loves, loves little kids; he rivals the famous (fictional) Carl in that respect. We’ll have 1-year old and 6-year-old grandsons in the house, and a 4-year-old great nephew. And we’ll go to the beach together! Woody’s going to think he’s gone to heaven.
Only the soon-to-be-married couple are allowed to bring a dog to the wedding site, a beautiful outdoor location in the coastal redwoods. I know that Cole, my son’s hound – his first “own” dog – will be a perfect gentleman at the wedding. My son and his bride are some of the best dog owners I know. I am confident that when they have children, they will be the best parents I know, too – just based on how great they are with Cole: attentive, active, warm, and fun-loving. And Cole will be a terrific big “brother.” He’s practiced with their friends’ babies for a few years; he’s great at cleaning baby faces and retrieving baby toys.
Time marches on. If we’re lucky, it allows us to continue to learn, enjoy our work, expand our families – human and canine – and accept our losses with grace. I’ve been incredibly lucky – and I’m so grateful to you for your support of our work, for your interest in learning more about our canine friends, and for allowing me to share my family – human and canine – with you. Here’s to more time, learning, and love!
Ear cropping is the surgical removal of most or all of a dog’s ear pinna—the flexible part of a dog’s outer ear. The procedure is often followed by several weeks of splinting and bandaging to ensure that the remaining ear pinna stands erect as it grows. This is a purely cosmetic procedure, done to substantially alter a dog’s natural appearance to one that is preferred by some enthusiasts of certain breeds (such as the Doberman Pinscher, Great Dane, and American Staffordshire Terrier).
Why Do People Crop Some Dogs’ Ears?
People crop the ears of certain breeds of dogs to meet a cosmetic appearance, sometimes to honor or replicate a putative function. Breeds that were developed to be barn ratters, such as the Miniature Pinscher and Brussels Griffon, historically had their ears cropped. This was done to minimize the risk of injury to the ear pinna should they be bitten on the ear by their prey.
Today, these breeds are more commonly used as companion animals rather than barn ratters. But some breeders continue to crop the ears of these breeds to maintain the look related to their historic function.
The most heinous reason for cosmetic ear cropping also has historical roots. Many of the “bully breeds” (including the American Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, and Staffordshire Bull Terrier) were once used for dog fighting. In those inhumane “sports,” the fighting dogs often had their ears severely cropped to prevent an opponent from gaining an advantage by biting the sensitive pinna.
Somehow, that closely cropped look has become synonymous with toughness—an attribute admired by fans of those breeds. This seems to be the basis of the reason that it has become a common practice for people who raise dogs of these breeds, or even mixed breeds of the “bully” type, to crop the ears of all the puppies they raised for sale, whether the dogs are intended for fighting or not.
Another reason that some breeds have historically had cropped ears is the belief that dogs with erect ears have enhanced hearing compared to those with non-erect ears. Boxers, for example, developed as working dogs with a history of being employed as police dogs and seeing-eye dogs. This breed traditionally had their ears cropped to improve their hearing for the roles they played as working dogs.
However, there is no evidence that ear cropping enhances a dog’s hearing. It’s more likely that removing part of the ear pinna alters how sounds are funneled into the dog’s ear canal; cropping may actually decrease their hearing acuity.
How Are Dogs’ Ears Cropped?
Ear cropping is typically done when a puppy is between 6 and 12 weeks of age. When performed by a veterinarian, the procedure is done under general anesthesia.
Analgesia (pain medication) is administered to minimize discomfort during the procedure. Animals perceive pain even when anesthetized, so it is important to manage the potential for pain before it is inflicted. The ear pinna is very sensitive and contains many nerve endings. As a veterinarian, I believe strongly that postoperative pain management is necessary, but it’s not always provided.
Just before surgery, the puppy’s ears are shaved and scrubbed with antibacterial soap. The pinnas are then trimmed to the desired shape and size, using a scalpel, surgical scissors, and/or a laser. The cut edges are sutured and bandaged; sometimes foam and glue is also used to help “train” the newly cut ears to stand erect.
Some puppies have their ears cropped at home by a lay person, either a breeder or someone who claims proficiency in completing the procedure. In this case, the procedure is performed when the puppy is awake and often without any analgesics. The ear pinna is removed with a pair of scissors or another sharp instrument. The cleanliness standards of a surgical procedure performed in a veterinary hospital are not adhered to and the risks of infection and hemorrhage are high.
Regardless of who performs the ear cropping procedure, there is potential for post-operative complications, the most common being infection and pain. As the surgical site heals, it becomes itchy and irritated. This can cause a dog to scratch at his ears, leading to additional trauma to the healing skin that may require a second surgical procedure to repair.
The ear-cropping surgery is not the end of the procedure, however. Most breeds require a significant amount of after-care—a few weeks for the smaller-breed dogs, but as much as nine months for larger breeds—to ensure that the cropped ears remain erect. Any scabs that form on the cut edges of the ear need to be softened with warm compresses and removed. The bandages and any supportive “posts” used to keep the ear erect need to be kept dry and clean and changed frequently.
It can be quite a challenge to keep a young, active puppy from scratching at or rubbing his ears—and to keep his playmates from biting at or licking the bandages. He may need to wear an Elizabethan collar (“cone”) for months to protect the surgery sites and keep any supportive taping or posts in place. The stakes are high; if the cropped ears are not properly cared for, infection (requiring additional vet visits and antibiotics) and/or disfigured ears can result.
Ear Cropping is Controversial
While the American Kennel Club (AKC) and some breeders support the practice of ear cropping, many organizations and people do not.
Most veterinary professional organizations around the world have issued statements that oppose ear cropping. In the United States, these organizations include the American Veterinary Medical Association and the American Animal Hospital Association. The Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals in both Australia and the United Kingdom also have taken stands against ear cropping.
Ear cropping has been banned in several countries around the world, including Australia, most of Europe, and two Canadian provinces. A law banning ear cropping was recently passed in Quebec and is slated to take effect in February 2024.
In the United States, only nine states restrict the procedure of ear cropping. No state completely bans the procedure. Proponents of the passage of these laws cite pain, the potential for short- and long-term complications, and the lack of functional reasons to crop ears.
While some people prefer the look of certain dog breeds with cropped ears, ear cropping is not medically necessary and may harm the dog. When selecting a breeder for a dog breed that traditionally has cropped ears, ask about the procedure, then select a breeder that matches your goals and your conscience.
Breed standards are created by the “parent clubs” for each breed, and maintained by kennel clubs, such as the American Kennel Club (AKC). A breed standard defines the accepted appearance, gait, and temperament of that dog breed. The breed standard is the blueprint to which all dogs of that breed are compared, used by judges to determine the best entrants that represent that breed in conformation classes.
Ear cropping is recognized in the AKC breed standards for about 20 breeds of dogs but is not required for you to register your dog. Some breed standards list a preference for cropped ears. For example, the Doberman Pinscher standard says, “Ears normally cropped and carried erect.” Breeders who show their Dobermans with natural, uncropped ears often do not place in conformation competition as highly as dogs with cropped ears because they are not meeting that element of the standard.
Ear Cropping Can Affect How Dogs Are Socially Received
Breed standards are created by the “parent clubs” for each breed, and maintained by kennel clubs, such as the American Kennel Club (AKC). A breed standard defines the accepted appearance, gait, and temperament of that dog breed. The breed standard is the blueprint to which all dogs of that breed are compared, used by judges to determine the best entrants that represent that breed in conformation classes.
Ear cropping is recognized in the AKC breed standards for about 20 breeds of dogs but is not required for you to register your dog. Some breed standards list a preference for cropped ears. For example, the Doberman Pinscher standard says, “Ears normally cropped and carried erect.” Breeders who show their Dobermans with natural, uncropped ears often do not place in conformation competition as highly as dogs with cropped ears because they are not meeting that element of the standard.
Medical Reasons for Surgery On the Ear Pinna
Ear cropping is not the same as surgically removing a damaged portion of an ear pinna or surgical repair of an aural hematoma (blood-filled swelling on the ear pinna). An ear pinna can become damaged during a fight with another animal, such as wildlife or another dog. Cancerous tumors can develop on the ear pinna, warranting removal of the tumor and the part of the ear pinna on which it resides.
Ultrasonic diffusers are the best way to deliver aromatherapy to your dog. The best diffusers for dogs efficiently deliver the therapeutic mist for 15 to 30 minutes, then shut themselves off. That’s enough time to saturate your dog’s (and your) olfactory system; any more can be too much! If you don’t have a programmable model, set a timer and turn the diffuser off manually. If another dose is needed, wait three to four hours before repeating. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Aromatherapy diffusers release essential oils, scenting the air with chemicals that affect minds and bodies. Depending on the oils it contains, a diffuser can help calm an anxious dog, lift a sad dog’s spirits, address specific symptoms, or help clear an area of airborne pathogens.
Are diffusers BAD for dogs?
Any improperly used essential oil or aromatherapy accessory can harm your canine best friend, so it’s important to understand how essential oil diffusers work and how to use them safely. If you follow the advice of experienced canine aromatherapists and use only therapeutic-quality oils that are safe for dogs, diffusers are good, not bad, for dogs.
Which diffuser type is best for dogs?
There are several types of diffusers:
A simple passive diffuser (cotton ball, tissue, fabric, or piece of clay) holds a drop of oil in place while it evaporates.
A candle or heat diffuser consists of a ceramic or glass bowl that sits on top of a tea light or gentle heating element. Drops of essential oil placed in the bowl with or without water evaporate as the bowl is warmed.
An ultrasonic diffuser disperses essential oil molecules in a cool mist. Place water in the diffuser’s reservoir, add 3 to 5 drops of essential oil, and sound waves generated by the diffuser’s metal disc will agitate the water, vaporizing essential oil molecules. A built-in fan carries the scented mist into the room.
A nebulizing diffuser produces a mist without the use of water by breaking essential oils into fine particles. Nebulizing diffusers produce the most concentrated aromatherapy mists.
Aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland at Frogworks in Littleton, Colorado, has been blending essential oils for animals since 1996. She prefers ultrasonic diffusers because they are more efficient than passive or heat diffusers; they are also less intense and safer than nebulizing diffusers for use around pets.
Cleveland recommends using an ultrasonic diffuser that can release an essential oil mist for 15 to 30 minutes and then turn itself off. She explains, “After 30 minutes the olfactory system is saturated with essential oils and needs relief from the aromas. Diffusing essential oils for too long can create the opposite effect from what you are trying to make.” If you feel another dose is needed, wait at least three to four hours before the next inhalation.
Benefits of diffused essential oils
Diffused essential oils do far more than smell fragrant. Inhaled essential oils, says Cleveland, affect every part of the body: They enter through the nose, then move to the olfactory region, lungs, brain, bloodstream, cerebrospinal fluid, tissue, and internal organs before being excreted by the kidneys.
In her book The Aromatic Dog: Essential Oils, Hydrosols, and Herbal Oils for Everyday Dog Care: A Practical Guide (Off the Leash Press, 2015), British aromatherapist Nayana Morag recommends diffusion for:
Fears and phobias, including fireworks.
Separation anxiety and other mental stress.
Tension in relationships between dogs and other animals or people.
Clearing airborne bacteria, preventing the spread of disease.
In addition, diffusers can:
Freshen your home by helping to remove odors.
Promote deep breathing.
Relieve stress.
Help with training by boosting your dog’s concentration and focus.
Help dogs recover from accidents or injury by promoting deep rest and recuperation.
Where to place your diffuser
Position your diffuser so it’s out of your dog’s reach and safe from being explored or knocked over. Don’t place it directly on rugs, upholstery, or wood furniture that could be harmed by spills or humidity.
“When you use an ultrasonic diffuser,” says Cleveland, “the diffused essential oils will drift through the room so that all who are in the room will inhale them.” She recommends placing the diffuser on a counter or table in a well-ventilated room with at least one open door, so that the dog being treated has a way to leave the room if he decides to do so. “For example,” she says, “don’t put your dog in a closet with a diffuser.”
Let your dog choose
Cleveland practices zoopharmacognosy, a term that describes how animals self-medicate with plants and soils to treat and prevent disease.
“For any condition, there are several essential oils that could help,” she says. “I let the dog smell each of them, usually by offering the cap. If she runs to the other side of the room or turns her head away, that’s not the right oil to use. Don’t ever force an essential oil on your dog. Wait for her to find an oil she’s interested in, one that she wants to smell more of. She may even try to lick the cap.”
Cleveland’s favorite essential oils to diffuse around dogs are bergamot, frankincense, and vetiver. Lavender is recommended at most aromatherapy websites, but over the years, Cleveland has noticed very few dogs choosing lavender essential oil, so she recommends offering alternatives.
The essential oil of bergamot (Citrus bergamia) is pressed from the peel of this plant’s fruit and is recommended for anxiety, depression, and stress-related conditions. “Its cooling and refreshing quality seems to soothe anger and frustration,” says Cleveland. “Some sources warn that bergamot is toxic to pets, but I have diffused it for more than 20 years with no problems. I use it to help dogs with depression, the loss of a loved one, and anxiety. This is a great oil for rehabilitating abused animals.”
One of bergamot’s chemical constituents is bergapten, which makes topically applied bergamot phototoxic to humans and animals, so make sure you buy only bergapten-free bergamot oil.
Frankincense (Boswellia carteri) exudes a rich, warm, sweet balsamic aroma. It has been reported to help with asthma, bronchitis, coughs, anxiety, and nervous tension. Cleveland says that it is frequently chosen by dogs suffering from anxiety and fear.
Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides) is a tranquil, calming, and grounding oil that helps soothe irritability and anger. Cleveland says, “It has a balancing effect on the central nervous system and is helpful for mental and physical exhaustion and insomnia.”
The oils in the chart below include Cleveland’s three favorite aromatherapeutic oils for dogs; the rest are favorites of Kristen Leigh Bell, author of Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals (Findhorn Press, 2002).
What essential oils are bad for dogs?
The author’s dog says, “No thanks!” to this particular oil, so that one is not for her! Photo by Stephen Nagy.
“Do not diffuse essential oils with the constituent thujone,” says Cleveland, “such as sage, tansy, and wormwood.” Other potentially harmful essential oils for dogs include peppermint, cinnamon, wintergreen, pine, sweet birch, tea tree (Meleleuca), anise, clove, and ylang-ylang.
According to the Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661), the most frequently reported essential oil toxicities for dogs involve tea tree, pennyroyal, wintergreen, and pine oils.
In general, the risk to dogs from aromatherapy diffusers is minimal, especially if you use essential oils from the “safe for dogs” list and follow the recommendations described in this article.
Off-Leash Genetics
For best results, dog owners must be sure the essential oils they buy are of “therapeutic quality.” Be forewarned, however, that there is much confusion in the marketplace as to how that term is defined. Fortunately, at the high end, there is also much agreement as to what’s the best and what isn’t. Professional aromatherapists agree that more than 95% of the world’s production of essential oils, including most brands sold in department stores and health food stores, are inappropriate for canine (or human) aromatherapy.
Most essential oils are chemically standardized for the pharmaceutical and perfume industries, with certain components removed and others added. Even if they are correctly labeled as 100% natural and 100% pure, nearly all essential oils are produced from commercially grown plants, complete with traces of pesticides and chemical fertilizers, and they are quickly distilled in very large batches under high heat and pressure for maximum yield. The results are very different from oils distilled in small batches at low pressure for longer periods.
The best sellers of essential oils source their products directly from manufacturers (distillers) or from distributors who travel to the source. They test the oils with gas chromatography or similar sophisticated equipment to ensure the oils are correctly labeled and not adulterated with synthetic oils, pesticide residues, or anything else.
The best oils are made with plants that are organically raised or responsibly wild-crafted; distilled at low temperature and pressure; treated like vintage wines and never blended with other essential oils; labeled by botanical species according to the date, time, and place of harvest and distillation; and tested for purity and accuracy of chemotype.
Any product that contains synthetic essential oils should not be used for therapeutic purposes. Pure essential oils are very expensive, so some distributors adulterate them with synthetic oils, inexpensive natural oils with a similar fragrance, inexpensive vegetable oils, or solvents. Obviously, these adulterants and synthetic oils – sometimes called perfume or fragrance oils – do not offer the complex chemicals contained in natural essential oils.
Approved Essential Oil Suppliers
To find true therapeutic-quality essential oils, order from suppliers like the ones listed below. These suppliers test essential oils for quality and maintain a network of relationships with manufacturers whose products are truly of superior quality. They are also familiar with safe canine applications for their products.
Have you ever bought a cute but pricey item in a pet supply store, only to have it fail within days – or hours? It’s estimated that Americans spent $109.6 billion on their pets in 2021 – but how much of that was a total waste? “Super tough” toys that don’t make it through a day of play, beds with zippers that permanently separate the first time you wash the cover, coats that cost an arm and a leg but fray or fade within a short time – I think we’ve all been there. Well, this stuff ain’t that! Here are 10 top-quality dog-care goods that you and your dog will truly appreciate.
The last time that Woody, my short-haired Pit Bull-mix, went camping with my husband and me, he was so cold at night that I ended up unzipping my down sleeping bag most of the way and allowing the 75-pound dog to snuggle next to me under the bag all night. I woke before dawn, feeling black and blue and freezing cold; in contrast, Woody was snug as a bug in a rug. I vowed then and there to get him his own sleeping bag for future camping trips.
Fortunately, I didn’t have to buy (or carry) an extra human-sized sleeping bag for this purpose, because I learned that Ruffwear makes a dog-sized sleeping bag that fits him perfectly! Problem solved!
Ruffwear’s Highlands Dog Sleeping Bag is made in an oval shape (like a sleeping dog) and has a zipper down one side. The outer shell is polyester with a “Durable Water Repellent” finish; the inner fabric is water-repellent nylon, and its stuffing is a compressible synthetic down. For its very first use, I unzipped the bag and invited Woody to lie down; when he did, I zipped up the zipper most of the way. He quickly realized how warm and comfortable he was and immediately relaxed into a nap. The bag is roomy enough that he was able to stand up and get out of the bag by himself when he smelled dinner cooking on the campfire. From that day forward, he has sought out “his” bed wherever we’ve brought it along with us.
The Highlands Dog Sleeping Bag is available in two sizes: Medium ($100) is 33 inches long and about 25 inches at the widest point; Large ($140) is 43 inches long and about 28 inches wide. It comes with a compression stuff sack that makes the bundle small enough to pack in your backpack. Woody is not going camping without his sleeping bag ever again!
The bottom of the sleeping bag has a sleeve that accommodates the optional Highlands Pad ($40, sold separately), which contains a thin layer of closed-cell foam and synthetic down for padding and a waterproof bottom surface. The Highlands Pad can be used alone on the ground for your dog to rest out of the dirt in camp. It folds into a smaller bundle – convenient for car-camping, but perhaps not small enough to carry on a backpacking trip. – Nancy Kerns
I first spotted these variously shaped dog chews that looked like they were made of wood at a pet products trade show. Curious, I approached and picked one up – discovering that they actually are wood! Was someone marketing regular old sticks to owners for their dogs to chew on?
Well, yes and no: These are sticks, but they are not just regular old sticks; they are pieces of wood from the coffee tree (Coffea canephora, sometimes referred to as java wood), a very dense wood with tightly bonded fibers that doesn’t splinter like most other types of wood when chewed. As dense as it is, though, in the course of a chewing session (and with the help of the dog’s saliva), it does slowly reduce in size in a fashion that has proven to satisfy our test dogs. Some little bits of wood must get swallowed by the dog in the process, but these are not sharp or splintery and get digested without incident.
The sticks are lightly sanded and smoothed at the cut ends; they haven’t been subjected to any other processing. There are a number of companies marketing pieces of the coffee tree as dog chews; we readily found the products offered by Ware Pet Products in both brick-and-mortar and online pet supply stores (including Amazon.com). Sellers price them according to their size, with the largest pieces commanding the highest prices. – Nancy Kerns
Anyone with a retriever or another ball-obsessed dog needs the Chuckit! Air Fetch Ball, a hollow, ball-shaped toy. The Air Fetch Ball has enough density to enable it to be thrown (or launched with a Chuckit! Launcher) and to fly as far as a solid ball, but thanks to its hollow, mesh-like construction, with glorious openings for airflow when your dog carries it back to you, it facilitates rather than impedes his panting, helping him avoid overheating.
Many dogs play fetch as a fast-paced, high-intensity exercise, which makes heat stress a concern. The only way dogs dissipate body heat is through panting, which is tough to do effectively with a solid ball in their mouth. My retriever won’t relax unless she’s holding the ball, but can’t effectively thermoregulate when panting with a regular ball in her mouth. The Chuckit! Air Fetch Ball has provided the perfect solution; now she can pant and hold this ball at the same time.
When I first saw the Chuckit! Air Fetch Ball, I was skeptical that it would perform as well as a tennis ball for playing fetch – and that dogs would accept it as readily. But it absolutely throws, flies, bounces, and rolls just like a tennis ball. In addition to its ability to help a dog breathe while carrying it, it’s easier than a regular ball to catch, and is highly unlikely to hurt a dog’s tooth on an awkward catch. And every dog I’ve thrown it to has enjoyed playing with it.
The Chuckit! Air Fetch Ball is available in four sizes, from 2 to 3.5 inches in diameter. Chuckit! sells launchers in a variety of sizes; check to see which launcher works with which size of Air Fetch ball. Made of natural rubber in Vietnam. – Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
The Help ‘Em Up Harness is used to support and steady older dogs who are having trouble with general mobility, or who need help only when getting up from a nap, going up or down stairs, or getting into a car. It’s also a valuable assistive device to protect fragile dogs who are recovering from surgery.
I’m embarrassed to report that I initially resisted when a physical therapist suggested that I use a Help ‘Em Up Harness on my older Labrador Retriever. There were just so many buckles! I thought it would take forever to put it on when my dog needed it. No thank you, I thought. Then she said, “Your dog can comfortably wear it 24/7, just like her collar.” I was a little skeptical but decided to try it. She was right! My sweet Dixie wore this harness comfortably for the last year and a half of her life and it was a godsend. (Note: Blue Dog Designs suggests you give your dog breaks from wearing the harness and that you check for chafing or overheating daily.)
The Help ‘Em Up Harness is designed to help you lift or support the dog’s mass from below, beneath the chest and pelvis, distributing her weight over large padded surfaces. The harness has two large handles – one positioned over the dog’s shoulders and one positioned over the dog’s hips – that you can easily grab to help your dog up or just steady her. As long as she’s wearing the harness, you can reach down and lend a hand if your dog tends to slip on hard surfaces, help her manage stairs more confidently, and easily lift her in and out of vehicles or on and off the bed. You can help her get up from lying down without a struggle and without straining your back. You can even provide support while a dog postures to urinate or defecate on weak hind limbs.
The Help ‘Em Up Harness comes in five sizes, suiting dogs from 10 pounds to 225 pounds. It is durable and washes well. The chest and back panels are lined with perforated neoprene to keep the harness as cool and comfortable as possible. Straps are also covered with neoprene sleeves and areas of most friction are covered with super soft microfleece. The company’s website offers detailed directions for ordering the correct size and design (there are two options for the back half of the harness, as the conformation of some male dogs necessitates a certain fit).
Blue Dog Designs also offers a variety of straps that snap onto the harness for use when walking for longer distances or for use with smaller dogs (so you don’t have to bend over to support the dog). One has a handle that’s similar to the handle on the harness; there is also a strap you can wear over your shoulder to help support the dog’s weight without having to bend down at all.
When you no longer need your harness, consider paying it forward by donating it to your veterinarian or local veterinary rehab facility so another sweet soul can be helped in your dog’s memory. – Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
We’ve often discussed the value of using a long line for training and managing a dog who is not ready to be off-leash. You can certainly make your own long line with an inexpensive rope – but if you may need to use a long line for a long period of time – like I forsee needing to use one for my adolescent dog, Boone, who recently discovered the joys of chasing rabbits (three times now, ack!) and deer (twice, ugh!) – you may as well invest in a strong, lightweight one that is waterproof (so it doesn’t get soaked and heavy in wet grass or during a swim), impervious to stickers and grass awns, and easy to hold and coil.
The material that best meets those requirements is BioThane, a polyester webbing with a TPU or PVC coating. It is flexible and soft in the hand, with a feel like supple leather, but durable and strong.
Trailblazing Tails is a small business that specializes in dog leashes and long lines made of BioThane (and I just learned they have a new line of collars, too). I’ve been admiring their products from their social media posts for a long time, but started seriously shopping their website after Boone’s first off-leash, no-recall chase after a rabbit. I hesitated to order only because I was tempted by so many options; did I want the one with an adjustable handle? A more expensive outer coating (described as “grippy yet buttery soft”)? One with a sliding tab that would enable me to wear the end of the long line around my waist or over my shoulder? Would the ½-inch width be strong enough, or should I get the 5/8 inch? Should I get the 20-foot, 33-foot, or 50-foot option? And which of the many colors should I order?
Every time I went to order, I stalled out, stymied by the many options – until Boone’s second deer-chasing adventure clinched my choice: I’d order the most basic model, 33 feet long, in brown ½-inch-wide regular BioThane with a plain handle.
The one I ordered arrived swiftly and does the job beautifully. The brass hardware and workmanship is high-quality, the material is comfortable in the hand, doesn’t get scuffed by being dragged, wipes clean with a wet cloth, and coils easily when Boone walks close to me. While some of the fancy options would have been nice, I’m relieved to have such a nice piece of useful equipment in hand, just a few weeks later than would have been smart. – Nancy Kerns
My dog, Prince, and I love to go kayaking and bicycling, but I am concerned about the potential long-term effects of sunlight on his vision. I wear polarized sunglasses when I am outdoors, so why shouldn’t he? Plus I was worried about him getting bugs or debris in his eyes when he rode in his bike trailer while I bicycled.
I tried a type of goggles on Prince a few years ago. He really disliked them; he would tear them off his face in just a few seconds, leaving them dangling around his neck. The lenses sat too close to his eyes for his comfort. And since the lenses were flat and sat directly in front of his eyes, they reduced his peripheral vision as well.
I recently had an REI member dividend to spend and took a chance on the V2 Goggles from RexSpecs. I knew from the moment they arrived that Prince would be more comfortable in these goggles. The lens is large and curved, giving him an unobstructed view of his environment. The lens sat far enough away from his eyes that his lovely long lashes would not brush up against it. The straps are adjustable along multiple points, making it possible to customize the fit for each individual dog. The area between the inner and outer frames contains a breathable mesh so that the lens does not get foggy. The breathable mesh also allows water to drain from the goggles should your dog get them wet. The frame is durable, bendable, and comes in a variety of colors.
You can also change the RexSpecs lenses. They come with two lenses; one is clear and the other is smoke gray. You can purchase replacement lenses that come in a variety of colors, such as pink mirror, blue mirror, or yellow. Prince recently added the purple mirror lens to his collection.
Each lens is impact resistant and UV 400 rated; this means that 99% of harmful UVA and UVB rays are blocked from reaching your dog’s eyes. The lenses are made from polycarbonate and do scratch easily. Care for them like you would your own eyeglasses.– Jennifer Bailey, DVM
If your dog has attempted to dig under your fence to escape your yard – or other dogs, a predator like a coyote or fox, or a nuisance animal like a skunk has dug under your fence to gain access to your yard – this product is for you. Dig Defence makes galvanized steel panels of comb-like tines that can be pounded into the ground next to/under your fence to provide an underground barrier that can keep pests out and your dog in.
The small and large panels are 32 inches in length, but the height of the tines and the distance between them varies. The products for small to medium animals have 8-inch tines spaced 2 inches apart; the panels for larger animals have 10-inch tines spaced 2.5 inches apart. There is also a “Max Protect/Gap Repair” product with 24-inch long panels; the tines are 15 inches high and 1.5 inches apart.
The panels are easy to install, even in hard soil. If your soil is very loose, consider the panels with the longest tines. They are very sturdy and can be pulled out of the ground and reused/relocated as needed.
The products are not inexpensive, so they’d be best used to address digging that recurs in a single spot or small zone; it would be impractical to use them under an entire fence line. Dig Defence sells them in a pack of four, 10, or 25 panels (the price per panel gets lower the more you buy). – Nancy Kerns
You control this pricey but absolutely pure fun puzzle game for your dog with an app on your smartphone. It’s comprised of two units: the PupPod Rocker, which has lights and sounds that signal your dog to touch it; and the Bluetooth-connected PupPod Feeder that delivers food when your dog touches the Rocker at the appropriate time. You launch the game or change its level of difficulty from your phone – and because the feeder features a video camera, you can use an app on your phone to watch a livestream of your dog playing the game even when you’re not home!
Because I’ve taught my dogs to “touch” things on cue, they enthusiastically bopped the Rocker with noses and paws – and very quickly learned to run to the feeder when they heard the sound effect signaling that a treat was about to be dispensed. The sound effects can be turned off, but the feeder still makes a mechanical noise as it prepares to launch the treat.
On Level One of the game, touching the rocker at any time triggers the feeder; on Level Two, the feeder will dispense only if the dog touches the rocker after it emits a flashing light and/or sound cue (you can choose the sound used for the cue, or turn it off). On Level Three, the rocker continues to emit the “touch for a treat” sound cue, but also introduces a new sound – one that will not cause a treat to be dispensed if the dog touches the rocker. Two more levels add even more complexity to the game.
The rocker is sturdy and has held up to getting batted around fairly vigorously by our treat-dispenser-savvy dogs. Our senior test dog (Otto), who has more than a decade of experience with food-dispensing toys such as the Kong Wobbler, was committed to the idea that the rocker should spill the treats – and since he’s pretty deaf, he couldn’t hear the feeder whirring when it dispensed the treats.
The feeder has tiny suction cups that keep it secure on a kitchen counter; it also has an integrated wall mount that can be used instead if your dog is a counter-surfer. It holds about two cups of kibble. (Treats that are fairly firm and spherical work best.) It varies, but generally dispenses one to four treats at a time, launching them rigorously into the room; my most savvy game-player (Woody) quickly learned to catch the treats mid-air.
The initial installation of the app on my phone and setting up the device (connecting to my home wifi and pairing the Rocker and Feeder via Bluetooth) was easy. I hit a little hitch when I took the PupPod to a friend’s house and tried to set it up at her house. Changing the Wi-Fi connection was a tad more difficult to figure out than setting it up in the first place, but I got it done without tears – not bad for a Boomer!
I enjoyed watching my dogs play with the PupPod as much as the dogs enjoyed it. If I didn’t work at home, I would be certain to spend my every lunch break by using my phone to initiate a boredom-busting game for my dogs and watching them play it via a livestream. – Nancy Kerns
One of WDJ’s regular test dogs is a tiny Chihuahua-mix (he weighs less than 5 pounds). Samson is at a high risk of getting injured in a car accident, given that he’s far too small to wear a conventional car-safety harness/seat belt combination. That’s why we were particularly happy to learn that Sleepypod, the maker of our favorite (and crash-tested) car-safety harnesses for larger dogs, offers a crash-tested car-safety carrier for small dogs (up to 15 pounds).
Sleepypod calls its Mobile Pet Bed a “transformative pet bed, carrier, and car seat, all in one” – and, for once, a product lives up to its aspirational marketing verbiage.
The round base has rigid sides and a rigid bottom, which makes a dog feel secure when being carried in the product. It’s lined with foam-padded, plush bedding that can be removed and machine-washed and line-dried. To carry your dog, zip on the durable mesh dome, which allows your dog to see and breathe easily. There is a handle on the top of the dome as well as an adjustable, padded shoulder strap for easy carrying. And for driving, the car’s seat belt is used to secure the carrier, preventing your small dog from flying through (or out of) your car like a deadly projectile.
The Sleepypod Mobile Pet Bed comes in nine colors. It’s also available in a smaller size (the Sleepypod Mini) for very small dogs (up to 7 pounds) for $180. Sleepypod offers several accessories for the Mobile Pet Bed that can make your dog even more comfortable, including an electric warmer (comes with a power supply cord, a U.S. adapter, and a car adapter); a white “Ultra Plush” cushion; a clip that attaches to the car seat belt, allowing you to pre-set the ideal seat belt length; and a hammock-like insert (the “Sleepypod Air Mesh”) that can be zipped into the base of the Mobile Pet Bed to increase the air circulation under the bedding to help your dog stay cooler.
Here’s the best part: The Mobile Pet Bed has successfully passed the Center for Pet Safety’s certification testing. And Sleepypod will replace or provide a replacement discount on any pet carrier or safety harness damaged in an auto accident, regardless of the brand. Now that’s a company that cares about car safety for dogs! – Nancy Kerns
Two years ago the Toppl Treat Toy from West Paw won a Gear of the Year place of honor with its treat-dispensing shape and soft yet sturdy construction. Now it’s joined by the Rumbl, a springy, squishy, slightly egg-shaped, hollow wobble toy that bounces while sporadically releasing kibble, jerky, or other dry treats. Designed for moderate chewers, the Rumbl has top and side openings that make it easy to fill. Contents stay dry even while the toy is gnawed and drooled on.
Like West Paw’s Toppl, the Rumble is dishwasher safe, floats, is free from BPA and latex, and is FDA-compliant. The small size (3.5 inches tall, holds about a cup of kibble) is recommended for dogs weighing less than 40 pounds while the large size (4 inches tall, holds about 1 2/3 cups of kibble) is best for medium to large dogs. Both sizes come in three colors: eggplant (purple), jungle green, and melon (pink/orange).
My Lab’s Rumbl was a gift from her Irish Terrier boyfriend, who adores his, and it immediately became a favorite, especially when stuffed with a round biscuit or sweet potato chew that’s large enough to prevent it from falling out. The Rumbl keeps dogs busy tossing, rolling, chewing on, and chasing this satisfying treat dispenser.
West Paw dog toys are manufactured in Bozeman, Montana. Its proprietary Zogoflex plastic material is recyclable and guaranteed for quality and performance. – CJ Puotinen
Does your dog get to run off leash? I suspect it’s every dog’s fantasy to race full speed across an open meadow unrestrained by a leash, wind ruffling fur as they dart into the woods, hot on the heels of fresh bunny scent. Sadly, far too many dogs don’t get this opportunity because their humans haven’t trained them to be reliable off leash. If your dog is one of those who can’t go for a hike without an umbilical cord attaching her to you, it’s time to get to work!
On Leash Training
Before you even consider taking your dog off leash, she needs a solid foundation of good manners training on leash. This usually starts in a group class environment with a well-qualified force-free training professional, then needs to be generalized to the real world.
If you want your dog to be able to walk with you off leash, the following skills are prerequisites for your dog:
Ability to walk politely on leash. (For help with teaching this skill to your dog, see “Polite Leash Walking,” WDJ September 2021.)
A solid response to your recall cue (“Come!”). The ability to return quickly and reliably to you when called is especially critical when you work off leash. (See “Rocket Recall,” September 2015.)
Targeting – where your dog approaches you and touches his nose or paw to your hand or some other part of your body – is a helpful close relative of the recall. It helps not only bring your dog back to you, but also asks for a particular body position. (See “On Target Training,” September 2021.)
“Find It” is a cue that asks your dog to look for treats dropped at your feet. Like targeting, this can help grab your dog’s attention and bring him back to you.
Generalize Your Dog’s Training
Your next step is to generalize your dog’s training. Generalization means practicing your dog’s good manners behaviors in various public places (such as community parks, city streets, and shopping center parking lots), and dog-friendly commercial locations (pet supply stores, many hardware stores, etc.).
Specifically, practice distance work (teaching your dog to respond to your cues when he’s 6 feet and farther away from you) and blind work (where he is asked to respond to your cues when he’s behind you and you’re not making eye contact). For help with these more advanced skills, see “Beyond Basic Dog Training,” May 2021.
When your dog’s behaviors are solid around distractions in public, you’re ready to begin your off-leash training.
Start in a Large but Secure Space
Your dog’s training off leash begins in a private, securely fenced area where you can eventually let him off leash without worrying that he’ll disappear into the great beyond. If you don’t have a fenced yard, perhaps a friend or family member does. If not, check out Sniffspot – a company that contracts with property owners to make fenced spaces available to dog owners for an hourly fee (sniffspot.com).
You’ll need a long line – a sturdy nylon, polypropylene, or BioThane leash between 20 and 100 feet long that allows your dog to be a distance from you but still under your control. With your long line attached, let him move a short distance away from you and practice your Rocket Recalls, distance work, “Touch,” and/or “Find It.” Also in your fenced space, remove your long line and practice polite walking. Remember to use your happy voice and high-value reinforcers. Toys and play can be valuable reinforcers here, too; it doesn’t have to be just food treats!
This is an ideal opportunity to make use of the Premack Principle, which says you can use a more desirable behavior to reinforce a less desirable behavior (from the dog’s perspective). If your dog loves to sniff and dig, reward him for a lovely stretch of off-leash walking by giving him permission to go sniff the bushes or dig in the dirt.
When your dog is responding promptly, consistently, and reliably at close distances, gradually increase his range to the outer limits of your long line. If his responses start to falter as he moves farther away, go back to working at a closer distance. Remember to keep it fun!
When your dog can work reliably at the end of your long line you’re ready to let him go free – in your large but securely fenced space. Without changing your demeanor (keep it fun!), practice all his behavior cues.
Resist any temptation to get angry with him if he doesn’t respond. The use of an aversive tone of voice can “poison” your cues – giving him a negative association and making him less likely to respond well in the future. If he’s not responding as well as you hope, decrease the distance between you, increase the value of the reinforcers you have to offer him, and if necessary, put him back on the long line for more foundation work.
Off-Leash Training in the Real World
When all is going well in the fenced area, you’re ready for the next giant step – off to the real world! This can be tricky, since many municipalities don’t allow dogs off leash in public, and it’s important that you obey those leash laws.
Your first assignment is to find safe places where you can legally have your dog off leash. When you have found appropriate locations, go back to square one and start with your dog on a long line, working close to you. To set up your dog for success, identify times when there will be less activity and begin your training at those times.
Follow the same steps that you did in your fenced area, gradually increasing the distance between you and your dog while convincing him that it’s more fun to engage with you than to explore the world on hisown. When he’s responding to you well at times when there is little activity in that location, try times when there are more distractions, gradually working up to long line reliability at high-activity times.
Now the final step: Go back to the off-leash environment during a time of low activity, armed with high-value reinforcers. Warm up on the long line, then take a deep breath and remove the leash. Continue working with your dog as you have been – happy and upbeat.
Practice his favorite behaviors first, keeping him relatively close to you. Keep your off-leash sessions short, so you can end with success. Do a few minutes of training off leash, then put your dog back on leash and train some more. Have fun!
Watch for the arrival of any distractions that might be too much for your dog to handle. If you notice the impending arrival of something that might disrupt his training, calmly snap his leash back on until the distraction is gone.
As you enjoy success at low-activity times, gradually move your training to busier times.
There’s a lot that can go wrong when you have your dog off leash. As well-trained as my dogs might be, I never try to walk them off leash along a busy street. If a car backfires or a skateboarder zooms past too close, even the best-trained dog could swerve sideways into the road and meet with tragedy.
So enjoy those off leash hikes in dog-friendly open spaces. Practice your good manners behaviors in community parks that welcome dogs. But if anything seems off – if there are one or more inappropriate dogs in the area, a human who seems uncomfortable with your well-behaved off-leash canine pal, or your dog just isn’t responding as well as she usually does – put the leash back on. You can always come back and play off leash another day, and another, and another.
Off-Leash Genetics
Keep in mind that some dogs are easier to train for off-leash work than others. Dogs who are bred to work very closely with their humans (i.e., the herding and sporting breeds) generally find it more reinforcing to stay near us than dogs who are genetically programmed to enjoy running off through the woods after other animals (such as hounds and terriers). That doesn’t mean your Beagle can’t learn to work off leash – you just may have to work harder at it than your neighbor does with her Border Collie.
The Problem: There are any number of dangers for your dogs at home, including things they can eat, things they can chew, things they can get caught in, and things that can fall on them. Hazards outside are even greater, even in a fenced yard, including malicious mischief, theft, poisoning, attack from predators, and accidental escape or release.
Young puppies are at greatest risk, since they explore the world with their mouths, and because they are smaller and more vulnerable than adult dogs. Puppies chew cords and get electrocuted. They get into garbage and household cleaners. They are more likely to ingest multiple pieces of chew toys as well as non-edible objects and become impacted, requiring emergency surgery.
Adult dogs are not immune, however. Nuisance barkers often get released from their yards, shot or poisoned. Dogs escape their yards by jumping over, digging under, or slipping through the fence when the pool cleaner leaves the gate open. They also get stolen for resale, breeding, and lost pet scams.
Solutions: First and foremost, keep your dogs indoors when you are not home to protect them. If they must be left outside, make sure your fence is solid and secure. Also make sure your dogs are not disturbing the neighbors, at risk of escaping, or able to fall into the hot tub or swimming pool. Finally, padlock the gates religiously.
Indoors, a puppy should be crated, or kept in an ex-pen or puppy-proofed room during your absence. Any new dogs in our home are crated when we are not there until they are at least a year old, at which time we give them gradually increasing periods of freedom as they demonstrate their maturity and ability to handle house-freedom privileges.
In addition, baby-proof latches on cupboard doors, covered garbage cans, and similar management tools can protect hazardous materials from pooches who have a penchant for snooping where they ought not.
For a more comprehensive guide on keeping your dog safe, download Dog Dangers now.
Is the child about to be bitten? Or does the dog adore the kid? We don’t know! This is a stock photo! The dog may be trying to avoid the child, or just turning her head . . . However, we can say that this isn’t something that you should allow your child to do with any but the most rock-solid, kid-loving dog – and if this is the only type of dog your child has experience with, you will have to make sure he doesn’t have the opportunity to try it with dogs whose kid-tolerance is unknown.
Let’s say, for example, a dog is not fond of children. A child approaches and the dog growls — his attempt to let us (and the child) know that her presence is stressful to him. We jerk on his leash and tell him to knock it off. He snaps at us in response to the jerk, so we punish him harder, until he stops fighting and submits. The end result is a dog who isn’t any happier about being around small children, who has now learned that it isn’t safe to growl.
This dog is now more likely to bite a child next time he sees one, rather than growling to warn her away, since he has learned that his growling makes us unreasonably aggressive. We may have suppressed the growl, but we haven’t helped him feel any better about being around kids! A growl is a good thing. It tells us that our dog is nearing his bite threshold, and gives us the opportunity to identify and remove the stressor. Snarls and air-snaps are two steps closer to the threshold – our dog’s last ditch attempts to warn off the stressor before he commits the ultimate offense: The actual bite.
If your dog growls or snaps frequently, you need to take notice. He is telling you that there are lots of stressors pushing him toward his bite threshold. If you don’t take action, chances are good that he will eventually bite. Dogs who bite tend to have short lifespans. If your dog bites, you have at least four options.
Manage his behavior to prevent him from ever having the opportunity to bite again.
Manage his behavior to prevent him from biting while you implement a comprehensive behavior modification program.
Rehome him with a new owner who is willing and able to do one of the first two.
Have the dog euthanized.
What you should not do is close your eyes and hope that he doesn’t bite again. You are responsible for protecting your family and other members of your community. Denial will only result in more bites.The good news is that relatively few dogs are beyond help. If you make a commitment to helping your dog feel more comfortable with the world, there’s a good chance you will succeed.
To find out how to manage stressors and prevent your dog from biting, download Dog Bites today.
A well crate-trained dog considers the crate "his spot," a safe place where he can relax. Photo by Christine McCann.
A crate is not a place of punishment. Never force your dog or puppy into a crate in anger. Even if he has earned a time-out through inappropriate behavior, don’t yell at him, throw him in the crate, and slam the door. Instead, quietly remove the dog from the scene and invite him into his crate to give both of you an opportunity to calm down.
Nor is a crate appropriate for long-term confinement. While some puppies are able to make it through an eight-hour stretch in a crate at night, you should be sleeping nearby and available to take your pup out if he tells you he needs to go.
During the day, a puppy should not be asked to stay in a crate longer than two to four hours at a time; an adult dog no more than six to eight hours. Longer than that and you risk forcing Buddy to eliminate in his crate, which is a very bad thing, since it breaks down his instinctive inhibitions against soiling his den. Dogs who learn to soil their dens can be extremely difficult, sometimes nearly impossible, to house train – a common behavior problem for puppies from unclean puppy mills.
To find out how to help your dog find contentment in the close quarters of a crate, download Crate Training Made Easy now.
In the simplest terms, allergy is the result of an immune system gone awry. When it’s functioning as it should, the immune system patrols the body, with various agents checking the identification (as it were) of every molecule in the body. It allows the body’s own molecules and harmless foreign substances to go about their business, but detects, recognizes, and attacks potentially harmful agents such as viruses and pathogenic bacteria.
When a dog develops an allergy, the immune system becomes hypersensitive and malfunctions. It may mistake benign agents (such as pollen or nutritious food) for harmful ones and sound the alarm, calling in all the body’s defenses in a misguided, one-sided battle that ultimately harms the body’s tissues or disrupts the body’s usual tasks. Alternately, the immune system may fail to recognize normal agents of the body itself, and start a biochemical war against those agents.
The three most common types of canine allergy are, in order of prevalence:
Flea bite hypersensitivity (known informally as “flea allergy”)
Atopy (also known as atopic disease or atopic dermatitis)
Food hypersensitivity (also called “food allergy”)
Flea bites, environmental allergens, and food account for the vast majority of cases of canine allergy. But dogs can be hypersensitive to all sorts of other things, including the bites of flies, mosquitoes, ticks, and mites; drugs, medications, and nutritional supplements; various fungal and yeast species; internal parasites (such as ascarids, hookworms, tapeworms, whipworms, and heartworms); and even their own sex hormones (in intact animals).
To learn more about common causes, best tests, and effective treatments for your dog’s allergies, download Canine Allergies today.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
