Safely using a two-dog leash requires that the dogs are of a similar size and both are well trained to walk on a leash. Credit: Photo courtesy of Debby McMullen, CDBC
I cannot count how many times clients with more than one dog have asked me whether it’s an option to use a leash coupler or two-dog leash. My usual response is probably not, but that is not always the case.
Let’s start with the reasons you should not consider this option:
One or more of your dogs are reactive on leash. Enough said there. Truly, you do not want to end up in a tangled heap on the pavement from triggers you cannot predict.
Your dogs have vastly different walking styles. For example, one of your dogs has active goals that include covering as much ground as possible while stopping strategically to sniff certain spots, while the other one really enjoys a slow stroll sniffing all the pee-mail and leaving a response when appropriate. A double leash with two dogs like this will simply create frustration at best and conflict at worst.
One of your dogs is considerably larger than the other. A two-dog leash in this case can cause unintended physical injury.
Your dogs simply tolerate one another rather than having a solid relationship. Using a double-dog leash with this kind of dynamic present can be a recipe for disaster.
Both your dogs are young enough to enjoy wrestling together frequently. As someone whose giant breed puppy just turned 1 year old, the early days of walking both of my young dogs together were full-on wrestling events at times. Had I been using a leash coupler, it would have been impossible to easily redirect this behavior.
Now, of course, there are scenarios where a double-dog leash is not only a good idea, but it can also make your walk easier since there won’t be any tangled leashes. They do exist! A double-dog leash might work for you if:
You have two small- to medium-size dogs who have both a good relationship with you as well as with each other, along with having similar walking styles and preferences. Often bonded pairs look to each other for confidence and camaraderie in many contexts and outside the big world, this is usually more evident. The double-dog leashes can add to their emotional safety.
You have two senior dogs who are more interested in their time with you and sniffing the world that the mileage covered. Of course, they should already be comfortable with one another as well as comfortable on leash. Dogs of a certain age just prefer meandering and pondering smells versus fast tracking.
You have two well-trained dogs who participate in dog sports that require the ability to be cued into what you need them to do while being attached to equipment that other dogs might view as cumbersome such as sledding. It’s not much of a stretch to train for walking in the neighborhood together cohesively when you have already trained for a complicated sport.
Whether you can successfully try a double dog-leash depends on many factors. The first thing, of course, is that both dogs already know how to walk quietly and politely on a leash. Basically, they both have “leash manners.” Safety for you matters, too, as injuries while walking dogs occur more frequently than you may have guessed.
A two-dog leash is a bad idea if one or both dogs pull on the leash. Please do make sure that you put the right thought into this beforehand for safety’s sake—safety of both you and your two dogs. (Some of these same rules apply to wearing a leash around your waist.)
While long-backed, short-legged dogs like the Dachshund are believed to be at the greatest risk of developing IVDD, it can happen to any dog. Credit: Vsevolod Vlasenko | Getty Images
Intervertebral disk disease (IVDD) is a painful, debilitating spinal cord disease. Sadly, humane euthanasia of an affected dog is sometimes considered. Long-backed, short-legged dogs are thought to be at the greatest risk of developing IVDD, but any dog can develop the disease.
The two categories of IVDD are:
Hansen Type I: This involves traumatic rupture (herniation) of the intervertebral disk. If the disk material is ejected upward, it will cause pain to the dorsal longitudinal ligament and could compress the spinal cord, resulting in nerve dysfunction. If the disk material is ejected sideways, it could affect the roots of the spinal nerves, causing pain and nerve dysfunction. Approximately 25% of Dachshunds experience Type I disease at some point in their lifetime.
Hansen Type II: This is a slower degenerative disease in which the annulus fibrosis wears away, causing the intervertebral disk to slowly impinge on the dorsal longitudinal ligament, the spinal cord, or the roots of spinal nerves over a period of months to years. Type II disease is mostly seen in German Shepherd Dogs.
IVDD in Dogs Stages
Clinical signs of IVDD vary with the disease’s progress. The earliest stage of IVDD is localized pain. With increasing severity of the disease, signs may include:
Poor proprioception, which is the dog’s ability to recognize where the limbs are in space
Inability to use one or more limbs
Impairment of the muscles that control urinary and fecal continence
Decreasing ability to detect superficial pain that may increase to deep pain
Diagnosing IVDD in Dogs
A diagnostic workup of suspected IVDD starts with a neurologic exam and evaluation for pain. Other problems with similar symptoms, such as vertebral fracture or dislocation, a tumor affecting the spinal canal or the nearby spinal nerves, or a fibrocartilaginous embolism (FCE), will be ruled out to make the diagnosis of IVDD.
Proprioception: Conscious proprioception reflexes are tested by flipping the paws of a standing dog upside down so that the top of the paw is on the floor. A normal dog will flip the paw right back into normal orientation with the pads of the paws facing the floor. General proprioception can be tested by leaning the dog to the side with support, to see if the paw automatically adjusts position to prevent a potential fall.
Gait: The dog’s gait will be evaluated. Dogs with proprioceptive defects may audibly or visibly scuff their feet as they walk, and the claws on the affected paws may be much shorter than on unaffected limbs because of the scuffing. Dogs may be ataxic (uncoordinated gait), sometimes in just the rear limbs (giving a clue to location of disk herniation).
Anus: The anus is examined for muscular tone and incontinence.
Ability to feel pain: In dogs who are unable to use their limbs, a strong pinch is applied between the toes of the affected limb. If the dog doesn’t withdraw their paw from the noxious stimulus, they are considered to lack deep pain.
Testing: X-rays may help determine if there is a fracture or dislocation causing the clinical signs. Sometimes mineralized disk material can be visualized, and sometimes there is a narrowing of the intervertebral space, giving clues as to where disk herniation may have occurred.
More sophisticated diagnostic tests may include myelography, CT scan, or MRI, which can help localize the precise location of spinal cord compression.
Treatment for IVDD in Dogs
An important treatment of IVDD is exercise restriction. Restriction to a crate is best, with trips outside on a short leash, only to toilet.
If the dog’s symptoms are relatively mild, medical treatment with steroids or a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) could be considered, along with muscle relaxants and other pain medication. Treatment with cold therapeutic laser can relieve discomfort. Mild oral sedatives can help keep a normally active dog quieter and less anxious.
If the clinical signs are severe (paralysis, incontinence), surgery might be an option, with the goal of relieving the compression of the spinal cord. Surgery is not a guarantee of a return to function, and usually there is a long course of physical rehabilitation therapy needed to help the dog walk again. The therapy can include in-office exercises and manipulations, underwater treadmill therapy, and a home exercise program.
IVDD: Home Care
If the dog recovers from a bout of IVDD, it is recommended to consider removing activities that involve jumping and quick turning from the dog’s lifestyle. This includes things like fetch, agility training, and off-leash hiking.
If surgery is not opted for, or if surgery was unsuccessful in returning function, options include using a cart to help the dog regain some mobility and beginning home nursing care, where the owner learns to do the expression of the urinary bladder and manage fecal incontinence. Home nursing care for a paralyzed dog requires a great deal of commitment in time and energy, however, and if the owner cannot commit to that level of care, humane euthanasia may be considered.
Choosing a mixed-breed puppy from a shelter may give you the chance to mingle with pups from a variety of backgrounds to see if one of them feels like a fit for you.
Credit: Slavica | Getty Images
You won’t see them strutting their stuff at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show, but mixed-breeds (aka mutts) bring their own special charm.
While purebred or designer breeds offer predictability in looks, size, temperament, and traits such as prey drive and energy levels, don’t sell short the “super mutt,” as described by Michelle Cote, trainer and founder of Mutts Melding Mankind. With “multiple breeds in their DNA,” these dogs have diverse personalities “due to a more diverse gene pool.” For this reason, she prefers them for her organization, which places service dogs with veterans.
While opting for a purebred or designer breed offers what some owners want in a canine companion, such as when looking for a dog for a senior, adopting a mixed breed dog not only provides a loving home for a deserving animal but also helps reduce the demand for puppies from puppy mills and unethical breeders, Cote says. If you go to a reputable shelter or rescue, you will be exposed to an abundance of cute, charming mutts looking for a home. And, at most reputable shelters, the staff can guide you to choosing the right mixed breed pup (or abandoned purebred).
What Is a Mutt Dog?
While definitions may vary, mutts (aka, mixed-breed dogs) result from breeding either purebreds or other mixed-breed dogs. What sets them apart from designer breeds is that they are usually the result of accidental matings. Therefore, it’s difficult, if not impossible, to predict what puppies will look like or how they’ll behave. Each mutt is a blend of its parents’ breeds, resulting in a combination of appearance and temperament. You never quite know what personality and physical traits you’ll get, making every mutt a special surprise and a unique personality.
Are Mutts Healthier?
Like many simple questions, the answer to “are mutts healthier than purebreds” is a complicated one. A recent study led by researchers at Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences, based on data collected from the Dog Aging Project on 27,000 dogs (13,923 mixed-breed dogs and 13,618 purebreds), attempts to answer it.
The results, published in the journal Frontiers in Veterinary Science, suggest that while certain breeds may be more prone to specific medical disorders, purebred and mixed-breed dogs are mostly equal when it comes to the frequency of overall health condition diagnoses. According to the report, some conditions, such as dental calculus and osteoarthritis, were reported at roughly the same frequency in purebred and mixed-breed dogs. However, other conditions were more common in one than the other: Extracted teeth and dog bites were more common in purebreds, while ear infections were more common in mixed-breed dogs.
The Science of Mixed Breeds
Overall, the number of health-related issues may be similar. However, according to the World Small Animal Veterinary Association, there is a scientific reason why some issues are more prevalent among purebred dogs. Mixed-breed dogs usually mate randomly and whelp without human intervention, suggesting some natural selection involved if an individual fails to thrive. “The occurrence of common genetic diseases in mixed-breed individuals occurs randomly due to dispersed ancient liability genes,” according to the association. “Uncommon and breed-specific recessive or complexly inherited disease is far less likely in mixed-breed individuals.”
Mutts: the American Dream Dog
According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, approximately 53% of dogs in the United States are mixed-breed dogs. For a country based on a healthy mix of nationalities, it’s fitting that more than half the dogs in the United States are mixed breeds. But mutt, designer breed, or purebred, there is no bad dog.
In the discipline of skijoring shown here, the dog pulls a pulk (small, low sled) with the handler skiing behind. Credit: Courtesy of Jessica Häggqvis
If you’ve ever dreamed of your dog pulling you while you run, ski, or bike, there are dog sports for all of those activities. For winter sport lovers, skijoring is an excellent way to get out and enjoy the snow with dogs.
Whether you’re a seasoned cross-country skier looking to bring your dog along for the ride or you’ve never skied before, here’s how to get involved in skijoring.
What is Skijoring?
Skijoring is similar to canicross, where a dog is attached to you by a bungee line connected to a special pulling harness. For both skijoring and canicross, your dog’s bungee line will be attached to a special canicross or joring belt that you wear.
Skijoring uses the skate style of Nordic or cross-country skiing, as opposed to the classic Nordic style. If you’re a downhill skier, you’ll need different gear (and different skills!) to try out skijoring.
How To Get Involved in Skijoring
First, you’ll need to ensure your dog is suitable for skijoring. Many northern breeds like Samoyeds, Huskies, and Malamutes are great for pulling-focused sports because they were bred to pull. However, other breeds like Border Collies, German Shorthaired Pointers, and mixed breeds also often enjoy the sport, so breed isn’t a barrier to entry. As long as your dog likes to run, they can be taught to skijor.
The biggest consideration before getting your dog involved in skijoring is if they’re old enough and healthy enough to handle pulling. Many people wait until dogs are between one and a half and two years old before introducing pulling to ensure their joints are fully developed before putting stress on them.
Once you’ve decided if your dog is a good candidate for skijoring, you’ll want to start building your skijoring community and learning more about the sport.
“I think the best way to get involved is both joining a club for skiing and training your skiing skills and joining a skijoring club to give your dog experience,” says Jessica Häggqvis, a skijoring competitor based in Sweden.
When participating in sports like skijoring, consider using dog boots to protect paws. Credit: Courtesy of Melissa Whittinslow.
Melissa Whittinslow, a recreational skijorer based in Colorado who runs Samoyeds, agrees that group and club meetups are great ways to learn about skijoring. She says that you’d likely be able to borrow gear to try and take advantage of trained dogs who can help teach your dog the game at meetups. Look on Facebook for local groups and clubs centered around mushing and other winter dog sports.
If you live in a state with lots of ski resorts, you may also be able to take skate skiing lessons at a Nordic center without your dog. “Most Nordic centers will offer lessons for humans to learn foundational skills and techniques,” says Devin Walker, a skijoring enthusiast with a background in Nordic racing based in Colorado. “Skijoring isn’t a big sport in the United States like it is in Europe, but if you poke around social media, you can often find groups near you.”
Walker says that she recommends people learn to skate ski on their own without their dog first, and that skijoring is much more fun for the dog and handler if the human is comfortable on skis.
Walker mentions that Nordic skis don’t have edges, which can take a while to get the hang of. She recommends taking lessons or learning from an experienced friend on your own before you introduce your dog to the sport.
Though it’s important to learn how to skate ski to participate in skijoring, you don’t have to be a perfect skier to enjoy dog skiing. “I’ve been at world championships with competitors/skiers who are just standing straight not doing anything so there’s many ways to participate,” says Häggqvist.
How To Train Your Dog to Skijor
Teaching your dog commands on the ground first is a great entry level point to skijoring. Once you have a suitable harness, a belt, and a line, you can start teaching skijoring commands without skis, which is essentially canicross.
“Many people who skijor also do canicross, as it allows for year-round training,” says Walker, who skijors and runs canicross with her rescue dog, Ruby.
Whittinslow also started out in skijoring by teaching her dogs commands while running canicross. “I was a long-distance runner when I was younger, so this came easier for me,” she says.
Some of the basic commands dogs need to know for skijoring are:
Line out: Put tension in the line before starting
Hike: Go faster
Gee: Right
Haw: Left
Woah: Slow down
On by: Move past a distraction
When introducing your dog to skiing, Walker recommends starting slow and getting them used to skis, snow, and the sounds and motions of the skis on snow. “Sensitive dogs may need some time to get used to the sounds,” she says. “Be positive, be excited, and praise your dog frequently!”
Dog Skijoring Gear
In addition to skate skis, poles, and other human cross-country skiing gear, there’s some dog-specific gear you’ll need before you can start skijoring with dogs.
“You want to start with a bungee/tug line that is long enough for your dog to get out from your skis,” says Walker. “The human needs a belt, and the dog needs a pulling-specific harness. I strongly suggest having a quick-release mechanism attached to the belt for skijoring, for added safety.”
If your dog has long or curly hair or is sensitive to the cold, dog boots can also be a good idea to have on your gear list. You’ll avoid snowballs in their fur and will be able to stay out longer if your dog’s paws are sensitive. Häggqvis says that whether or not you’ll need booties depends on the dog and the snow you’re working with. Some snow can be sharp and icy, so keeping booties on hand is a good idea in case you run into less-than-stellar conditions.
If your dog doesn’t like booties, you can also use Musher’s Secret or another paw wax or paw balm to protect your pup’s feet from the cold.
Can You Compete in Dog Skijoring?
For those who want to compete in skijoring in the U.S., look for local clubs that host events. Credit: Keela McCleneghan
You can compete in skijoring, but you’ll need to do a bit of work to find local races in the United States. According to Walker, the best bet for finding races is by joining local mushing and sled dog clubs who put on events. For example, in Colorado, Colorado Mountain Mushers and Rocky Mountain Sled Dog Club often host winter race events with skijoring classes. You can also watch kicksledding and bigger sled teams during these events.
Should I Try Skijoring With My Dog?
All the current skijoring teams we chatted with recommended trying skijoring out with someone who has experience. “Having another dog to run with can really make a big difference in helping a new dog understand the game,” says Walker. “And it’s always helpful to get a second opinion on the fit of your dog’s harness when just getting started. Skijoring is so much fun, and it’s a great way to stay active with your dog in the winter, I’d highly recommend trying it out!”
“I know getting into skijoring can seem scary or not practical when you don’t know how to ski, but don’t let this stop you,” says Whittinslow. She says that the best thing about skijoring is that you don’t have to be a stellar skier to participate. “I love just being outdoors with my dogs working and learning together.”
Both of my dogs are friendly to humans and other dogs. I had every confidence that they would have no problem with being groomed or petted (as Boone is appreciating here), but worried (with good reason) that they might not be able to resist politely greeting a human who approached and greeted us.. Credit: Sarah Richardson
I have been aware of the American Kennel Club’s Canine Good Citizen program for ages, and I always imagined that my dogs would rather easily pass the test. After all, I’ve put hundreds of hours into training them and consider them to be very friendly, well trained, and well-mannered.
An opportunity arose to take the test at my friend’s training center and I thought, “What the heck? Let’s get a title on these mutts!” Never mind that I opted for this opportunity two days before the test.
However, once I started looking over the specific behaviors to be tested, I identified two items that were likely to be our Achilles heel:
In the first, “Accepting a friendly stranger,” your dog is supposed to stay more or less still—at least, not move toward a person who approaches you and your dog and then greets you. If the dog steps in front of you to greet the person, he flunks, even if he is calm and doesn’t jump and isn’t unfriendly; he’s supposed to remain at your side. Shoot; both of my dogs are super friendly and very likely to move toward a person who greets me, if only to sniff their shoes and solicit petting.
Both of my dogs are reliable at performing the basic behaviors of sit, down, stand, stay, and walking politely on leash. But we just haven’t practiced resisting a greeting! Photo credit: Sarah Richardson
In the second, the setup is essentially the same. You walk forward with your dog in a heel position, and a person walks toward you with their dog in a heel position; then both handlers stop and have a brief interaction. Both dogs are on the outside (as if passengers in the passenger seat of a car, with “drivers” stopped and talking to each other out the driver’s window). Your dog is not permitted to cross in front of you—either to greet, sniff, or menace the other person or their dog. I did think my dogs would be able to ignore the other dog, but again, I thought that it was likely that they would want to sniff or greet the other human. I was right about the test items that would be hardest for my dogs, but not the specific part of each challenge.
We practiced this behavior for, oh, at least two minutes apiece, in front of the training center right before the test. And guess what? That’s not enough practice time!
The results for Boone and Woody were the same: We flunked at the same item, with both dogs failing to heed my “Off!” and “Stay!” cues and stepping in front of me in order to try to sniff or greet the other dog. Their reactions were mild, but a failure nonetheless!
The results for both dogs (and me!) were identical; they flunked on the same item, “Reaction to Another Dog,” though I thought they would easily ignore the dog and be focused more on greeting the human. However, though they both displayed a brief interest in the human (whom, with prompting, they were able to keep themselves from greeting in the first test item (“Accepting a Friendly Stranger”), and happily got to know in item 2 (“Sitting Politely for Petting”) and #3 (Appearance and Grooming,” where the evaluator brushes the dog and examines his ears and each front foot), they both took too much interest in the other dog. Despite more prompting (my repeated use of the “Off!” cue), both stepped in front of me in an attempt to sniff or greet the other dog. Womp, womp, that’s a fail, even if they didn’t pull hard, leap about, or growl. They were supposed to stay at my side, and despite being cued to “Stay,” and “Off” (same as “Leave it”), they didn’t.
These results were not of great importance to me, but I do feel challenged now to sign up for the next local offering of this test, and actually train and practice for it. Though I feel that the expectations of the test should be within every dog’s easy ability to accomplish, clearly they take a bit more training and practice to pass, even with very well behaved dogs!
Note that at no time did I issue any sort of rebuke, tight leash, or yank of a “correction” to my dogs, even though it’s likely that both of them would have readily heeded my “Off!” cue had I been more intense about it. Passing at any cost wasn’t the point; if I couldn’t get them to pay attention to and perform the desired behaviors for my normal cues and tone, then I need to practice this with them. And the truth is, I so seldom walk them on leash in the presence of strangers and strange dogs that we effectively have only rarely practiced these specific behaviors. Having the expectation of certain behaviors without practicing them is just dumb!
Even though this was a formal test in a controlled and artificial setting, the experience was a great reminder to me that it’s not smart to have expectations of our dogs for behaviors that we don’t specifically practice! We expect them to generalize their knowledge about things (such as “Stay” and “Off”), but if we don’t practice these behaviors in a wide array of conditions, we certainly can’t blame them for failing to demonstrate them under different conditions than the few environments and situations we do practice in.
Boone, Woody, and I will be practicing to ace that CGC as soon as we possibly can.
Do you think you and your dogs could pass this test?
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) cannot be prevented in dogs that have inherited the genetic mutations that cause the condition. Most at-risk dogs can be tested for PRA before symptoms are noticed. Credit: AngelPietro | Getty Images
Bumping into furniture, reluctance to go outside at night—these are signs of visual impairment. There are several causes of visual impairment and blindness in dogs—one of those causes is progressive retinal atrophy (PRA).
PRA is the gradual destruction of photoreceptors in the retina. The retina is located at the back of the eye. Photoreceptors in the retina capture light that enters the eye and convert the light into electrical signals. These signals are sent to the brain through the optic nerve. The brain converts these electrical signals into an image of what your dog sees.
There are two types of photoreceptors in the retina—rods and cones. Rods are responsible for detecting the level of light (or brightness) and motion. Cones are responsible for detecting color. Unlike humans, dogs only have two types of cones and can perceive the colors blue and yellow but not red and green.
PRA begins with the loss of rods in the retina. This causes dogs to develop night blindness, also known as nyctalopia. Dogs with nyctalopia may initially exhibit reluctance to go outside after dark. As more rods are destroyed, these dogs will develop difficulty tracking moving objects in dim light and then in brighter light.
PRA will progress from destruction of rods to loss of cones in the retina. As cones are destroyed, dogs with PRA will gradually lose visual acuity and eventually become blind. Since their vision loss is gradual, these dogs will have created a mental map of their environment. They may not show symptoms of visual impairment until they are introduced to a new environment (like a new home) or if their current home is remodeled or the furniture rearranged.
Causes of Progressive Retinal Atrophy in Dogs
PRA is an inherited condition in dogs. Certain breeds of dogs are more likely to inherit the gene mutations necessary to cause PRA. These include (but are not limited to) Poodles, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Irish Setters, and Shetland Sheepdogs.
You can have your dog tested for the gene mutations that are known to be associated with the development of PRA. The American Kennel Club (AKC) offers DNA testing for PRA and other inherited conditions through Neogen. The University of California at Davis (UC Davis) offers testing for the PRA gene mutations of specific breeds. Both laboratories complete testing on a cheek swab sample that you can collect at home and submit by mail to the laboratory.
Testing your dog for the gene mutations that are associated with development of PRA will give you more information about whether your dog is likely to develop PRA. Dogs that possess the necessary gene mutations should undergo an annual examination with a veterinary ophthalmologist to screen for development of PRA.
Not all of the gene mutations associated with developing PRA have been identified. Research into the genetics of PRA is ongoing and our knowledge of the gene mutations behind this condition continues to grow.
Diagnosing PRA in Dogs
Proper diagnosis of PRA in your dog will require a visit to a veterinary ophthalmologist. Your dog will receive a complete ophthalmologic exam, including an electroretinogram (ERG). An ERG records the electrical activity of the retina when exposed to light. Dogs with PRA will have characteristic changes to their retinal electrical activity due to the destruction of photoreceptors in the retina.
The ERG takes about 20 to 30 minutes to complete. Your dog is first placed in a completely dark room for about 15 minutes. This immersion into darkness makes the retina particularly sensitive to light.
The pupils will need to be dilated for this test. If your dog’s pupils are not already dilated, a drop of a pupil dilation solution (such as tropicamide ophthalmic solution) will be instilled in each eye. Then a drop of a cornea numbing solution (such as proparacaine or tetracaine) is applied to the surface of each eye. This numbs the surface of the cornea in preparation for the ERG.
A contact lens that contains an electrode is applied to the surface of your dog’s cornea. Two electrodes are applied to your dog’s skin. One electrode is placed at the top of his skull and the other is placed next to the eye being tested.
Pulses of light are shone into the eye being tested. Electrical activity of the retina is recorded by the electrodes and the output is displayed on a computer. Characteristic changes in the retinal electrical activity confirm the diagnosis of PRA.
Your dog needs to sit still without moving his head during the ERG. Most dogs will require a sedative for the procedure. Some dogs may need to be briefly anesthetized to facilitate completion of the ERG.
Treatment and Prognosis for Dogs with PRA
There is no way to prevent the development of PRA in dogs. All dogs that have been diagnosed with PRA will lose their sight. PRA is not a painful condition. Most dogs will adjust to being visually impaired and lead a full and happy life.
A supplement called Ocu-GLO may have a protective effect on the retina. Anecdotal evidence appears to indicate that Ocu-GLO may slow the progression of PRA, although more research is necessary to prove this effect. Ocu-GLO and other eye supplements will not stop dogs from going blind due to PRA.
Dogs with PRA are at increased risk for developing cataracts. Cataracts are a clouding of the lens in the middle of the eye. Molecules released by the photoreceptors as they degenerate can be toxic to the lens and cause a cataract to develop.
Cataracts can cause proteins to leak from the damaged lens. These proteins can cause inflammation of the inner lining of the eye—this is called uveitis. Uveitis can cause an increase in the intraocular pressure of the eye—this is called glaucoma. Glaucoma is a painful condition that can be treated if it is detected early.
Some breeds that are at increased risk of developing PRA are also at risk for developing hereditary cataracts. Like PRA, hereditary cataracts occur in dogs that have inherited the gene mutations that cause this condition. Breeds that are genetically predisposed to developing PRA and hereditary cataracts include (but are not limited to) the American Cocker Spaniel, Labrador Retriever, and Australian Shepherd.
Dogs that have been diagnosed with PRA should undergo regular ophthalmologic exams with their primary care veterinarian to screen for the development of cataracts and glaucoma. This exam should include a test of the intraocular pressure in each eye. Intraocular pressures are measured with a device called a tonometer. If your dog’s intraocular pressures are high, then your veterinarian will prescribe one or more eye medications to treat your dog’s glaucoma.
Most dogs with PRA will gradually lose their vision and become blind over a period of one to two years. The speed at which your dog will become blind from PRA will depend on his breed and the underlying genetic cause of his condition.
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A gradual switch in dog food is usually recommended by veterinarians regardless of why you’re changing the food. Credit: ti-ja | Getty Images
For some dog owners, switching dog food is not a big deal. These dogs often sail through switching dog foods without a transition period, especially if they’re already eating a varied diet.
If your dog is used to a constant variety of dog food, as has always been recommended by Whole Dog Journal, he may not require a transition. Many dogs can eat a wide variety of ingredients and foods and will tolerate a rotational diet, provided the protein and fat levels of the foods you’re choosing are similar.
If you’ve always fed the “same” food and need to change, a slow transition will be easiest for you and your dog.
Switching Dog Food
A gradual switch in dog food is usually recommended by veterinarians regardless of why you’re changing the food. The only exception, of course, is in the event of a food recall when you must stop feeding the bad food immediately. Otherwise, plan to go slowly to avoid gastrointestinal upset like diarrhea. If this is done properly, your dog is unlikely to have any problems.
The standard recommendation for how to mix food when switching from one to another is 25% new food/75% old food for 3 or 4 days. Then, go to 50%/50% for 3 or 4 days. The next mix is 75% new/25% old for another 3 to 4 days. Then, you feed only the new diet. Most dogs handle this schedule just fine but there are some exceptions.
You may need a more gradual switch if your dog has been eating a raw diet or you are moving to a raw diet. Even going from a straight kibble diet to an all-canned food diet may require a slower approach over a longer course of time.
Protein Considerations in Switching Dog Food
Switching main protein sources can upset some dogs. If your dog has eaten chicken foods for years, and now you want to switch to beef, you may need to take more care and be aware of potential allergy reactions.
Changes within a brand, like going from chicken to rabbit but staying with Brand X, or changes that maintain the usual protein source, going from Brand X chicken to Brand Y chicken, are often the smoothest switches.
A gradual switch to a diet that is compatible with your dog should not cause any major health changes and certainly not be fatal. Dogs rarely have anaphylactic reactions to certain foods like people may experience.
Reactions to Switching Dog Food Too Quickly
On the other hand, some dogs do react to diet change, so you need to be aware and respond quickly. Signs to watch for include:
Dog isn’t eating well or is eating everything but the new food
Changes in bowel movements (soft stools are usually seen before diarrhea appears)
Frequency of bowel movements may change
Changes in thirst, such as he empties the water bowl multiple times a day
If your dog needs to change his diet, for example to a prescription diet, but has some diarrhea, back down on the amount of new food and build it up more slowly, like in 10% increments, not 25%.
It is also wise to add a probiotic whenever you make a diet change to help your dog’s microbiome adjust to the nutrient change.
Dog Food Change Helpers
If your dog needs the diet change for his health but doesn’t like the new food, ask your veterinarian about safe food “toppers” and appetite stimulants that might help. Warming the food or adding warm water can increase the odors and stimulate appetite as well.
Despite all these cautions, there are dogs known for their “garbage guts.” You could change the diet for these dogs every other day, no mixing or precautions, and they do just fine. Unfortunately, most of our dogs aren’t quite that accommodating, and it’s usually best to do a transition.
One of the goals with puppy crate training is that your puppy feels safe, comfortable, and secure in his crate. Many puppies eventually seek out their crate for a quiet nap.
Credit: cmannphoto | Getty Images
Crate training is a valuable skill, especially for puppies. A safe, secure, and properly sized puppy crate is the safest place for your puppy when you are not home, cannot supervise him, or the house is dangerously hectic (puppy might escape!). All my puppies were acquainted with a crate. Additionally, sometimes, such as in a natural disaster, a crate-trained dog can mean the difference between being able to take your dog with you to a safe space or not.
All responsible rescue groups as well as responsible breeders start the crate-training process before you even bring your puppy home. So, hopefully, your puppy won’t be a stranger to a crate. My puppy, who just turned 1 year old, was crate-trained before he came to me, but that did not mean that he embraced being crated in my home initially. We worked hard at this process.
Make Crate-Training Positive for Your Dog
Creating positive associations with the crate is a vital first step before leaving your puppy in a crate when home alone. Puppies sleeping in the crate in the same room that you sleep in helps create a conditioned response of safety. It’s also easy bonding. The family sleeping together in the same space helps a puppy sleep better. Crate training a puppy at night is the best start on this path.
You can make positive associations with a crate by tossing tiny high value treats into the crate so that your puppy goes in on his own. If you have additional dogs, prevent them from taking the puppy’s treats during this process, although the puppy will notice adult dogs easily going into the crate as a good example.
Soft verbal reinforcement when entering the crate is important. This should be done randomly at different times of the day if possible. Place food-dispensing toys inside. Don’t lure your puppy inside. Allow him to choose to go in and then reward him. He may remove the toys initially to enjoy them but, with repetition, he will lay inside and enjoy them instead.
Having the crate in a room where you regularly spend time with your puppy makes this practice part of the regular routine. When the puppy chooses to go inside the crate, you can randomly close the door very briefly. I stagger this, meaning sometimes I close it and sometimes I don’t. Not moving forward each time creates less anxiety about the protocol. If you are doing these repetitions frequently enough, it will become normal to use a time frame that your puppy may already be tired so that at some point, you can close the crate door and leave the room briefly (or not). “Or not” depends on what you hear when you do.
If crate training results in a crying puppy, you may have rushed things a bit. Returning for crying or whining is a bad idea. If you have done your due diligence, there should not be any crying or whining. Start crate training slowly. The exception is overnight sleeping, with the caveat that if your puppy cries to go potty in the middle of the night, please listen to them.
Puppy-Crate Safety
I have learned from experience that puppies can and will shred bedding and stuffed toys when home alone in a crate. This may create an issue of physical safety. I do not wish to come home to the possibility of an intestinal blockage—or worse—from a swallowed blanket, so I only provide safe-to-chew items in a crate when alone. Examples of these include Kong products designed for this, some Toppl products, Nylabones, and Benebones.
Toys and chews need to be appropriate for the puppy’s size and age. My own preference for a crate-safe enrichment includes smearable food on/in the chewing type toys. For the original Kong toy shaped like a snowman, please don’t jump straight to jamming hard treats or kibble inside and then freezing it with some liquid poured in or with added peanut butter to keep everything even more stuck. Here’s why: That is what I call a PhD-level Kong. You should start with a kindergarten-level Kong before you get to the PhD level. Also, a dog capable of emptying such a Kong when home with you there, may not have the same relaxed mental state to do the same in a crate when alone. Work your way up to that, if at all.
How I use Kongs like those is to cut a bunch of high-value treats such as boiled chicken or single-source meat hot dogs into tiny little pieces and show my puppy how to go about emptying it when I am home first. I make them loose and easy to get out initially. As the puppy grows more confident with this process, I might fill it a bit more so that the puppy must work a little harder. But I never get to the “pack it in and make it all stuck together” point.
I also like the Kong Goodie Ribbon as a potentially less frustrating option. Four holes on each side. Very visible, very difficult to ignore if you are using something high value, which is always important. I have strung boiled chicken through from one side to the other as well as turkey bacon. I also squirt some squeeze cheese on top as well as some whipped cream, alternating like I am decorating a cookie.
Note: Some professionals suggest feeding a puppy inside the crate, but I am not among them. I like to have my dogs eat meals when I do the same and the crate isn’t part of that equation.
You can also use an ex-pen (exercise pen), alternately known as a puppy pen, if room for a crate is an issue. Just make sure that the puppy cannot jump over it, climb up it, or move it. Some ex-pens have tops available to stop puppy climbing.
Safe Dog-Crating Tips
Some important points to note for crate and ex-pen usage:
Remove collars when crating. This eliminates the possibility of a tag catching on a crate spot and injuring the puppy.
Be mindful of how long your puppy will be crated when home alone. A common rule of thumb is 1 hour for every month of age. But that could then mean 8 hours for an 8-month-old dog, and I would strongly disagree. My own guideline is 4 to 5 hours, depending again on the puppy’s age, time of day, and what kind of enrichment and exercise they may have had prior to crating.
Your puppy’s crate should be in a room that you regularly spend time with him in. Basements or a room that is only used for the crate are not a good idea.
Do not use the crate for punishment such as a time out, etc. That will create the opposite of a positive association.
Size the crate appropriately. Most wire crates now come with a divider that can be moved or removed completely according to your puppy’s size. Wire crates are better options than closed in airline type crates.
If a puppy is unsure about something new, give them time to observe. Don’t rush interactions. You can return to the situation another time, getting closer when the puppy is comfortable.
Credit: Yuliya Movchan | Getty Images
Dogs are naturally social beings, but that doesn’t mean every puppy leaves the litter with social skills or that trauma can’t derail an adult dog who previously socialized with other dogs, people, and other animals.
What Is Dog Socialization?
Socialization is the process of preparing a dog to enjoy interactions and be comfortable with other animals, people, places, and activities, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA).
Research shows that, while dogs of any age can be socialized, ideally, socialization should begin between 3 and 14 weeks of age. During that period in a pup’s life, they are deeply impacted by their experiences, according to research.
Having a well-socialized dog means more than just a friendly pup. The Oregon Veterinary Medical Association (OVMA) advises that, if dogs do not become socialized, they may become anxious, fearful, and antisocial with people and other animals.
And that’s a major concern. Behavior problems are a major reason so many pets are brought to shelters. The frustrated owners just don’t know how to handle a poorly socialized dog.
Signs of a Poorly Socialized Dog
While some excitement is normal, poorly socialized dogs may exhibit over-excitement or hyperactivity in social situations, leading to inappropriate behaviors like jumping or nipping.
Poorly socialized dogs often show distress when faced with new stimuli. Their reactions can vary in intensity, but they usually stem from fear or anxiety.
If not properly socialized, your dog may exhibit behaviors such as aggression toward strangers and other dogs. Signs of a poorly socialized dog include, but are not limited to:
Focus on socializing your puppy the moment you bring her home. Try to patiently and gradually expose her to a variety of sights, sounds, and experiences. You can go on walks in different places, take a puppy training class, take your puppy with you to stores like Home Depot that generally allow dogs, maybe schedule play dates with a friend who has either a gentle older dog or a puppy close to your dog’s age and size. Throughout all this, always be patient with your puppy.
Never force your puppy to deal with something; if the puppy is fearful, move farther away from the scary thing and distract the puppy with treats. You can also simply leave and try on another day(s), with lots of extra yummy treats.
Handle your puppy daily, including gentle petting, holding, and examining paws and ears.
Gradually introduce your puppy to a variety of everyday sounds (e.g., traffic, appliances, children).
Teach your puppy to tolerate people near their food bowl by dropping treats in the puppy’s dish.
To prevent social anxiety, short periods of alone time are essential to prevent separation anxiety.
Focus on positive reinforcement, rewarding good behavior and preventing unwanted behaviors (e.g., biting) through gentle redirection.
Introduce your puppy to a variety of people, including men and children.
Redirect biting with appropriate toys and end play sessions if biting becomes too hard.
Always Socializing
Although a dog’s primary sensitive period of socialization is as a puppy, it’s important to continue to socialize your dog throughout their life with activities like:
Dog-to-dog interactions: Engage in various social activities like dog parks, playdates, and walks to facilitate appropriate dog-to-dog interactions.
Enrich your dog’s environment: Vary your walking routes to provide mental stimulation and exposure to different environments.
Prevent separation anxiety: Practice short periods of alone time daily to prevent separation anxiety.
Manage fear: Avoid punishing fear and remove your dog from the situation and redirect their attention.
Stay hands-on: Continue handling your dog gently to ensure the dog is comfortable being touched and examined. Pay attention to signs of discomfort and stop if needed.
Socializing an Adult Dog
If socialization training starts with an adult dog, especially one with a history of reactivity, you will need more of a patient and gradual approach. Enrolling in a class with an experienced trainer to coach you will be money well spent.
Begin with low-stress interactions. Let your dog observe people and other dogs from a distance and gradually decrease the distance as they become more comfortable.
Create positive associations with people and other dogs by offering treats and praise.
Never force your dog into social situations. Let them approach at their own pace and never punish them for showing fear or anxiety.
Play it safe: Focus on keeping your dog safe and comfortable in situations where he might react. This may involve using a leash, muzzle, or barrier to create distance between your dog and potential triggers.
Start slowly: Gradually expose your dog to triggers at a distance that they can tolerate. For example, observe other dogs from a park bench or watch people walk by from inside your house.
Use positive reinforcement: When your dog is calm around their triggers, reward them with treats, praise, or petting.
Turn to the pros: If you’re struggling to socialize your dog, consider consulting with a certified professional dog trainer or behaviorist. They can help you develop a personalized training plan and provide guidance on how to manage your dog’s reactivity.
Factors Affecting Dog Socialization
In addition to proper early-life experiences, these factors influence a dog’s socialization:
Genetics: Breed temperament and individual personality traits can influence a dog’s response to new situations. Some breeds may be naturally more cautious or fearful, while others may be more social.
Environmental Factors: The environment in which your dog is raised can significantly impact their socialization. A stimulating and enriching environment with opportunities for exploration and positive social interactions is ideal.
Owner Behavior: Your behavior plays a crucial role. If you’re fearful or anxious around strangers or other dogs, your dog may learn to mimic these behaviors.
Socialization and Personalization
It’s crucial to remember that every dog is unique. It’s always best to consult with a certified professional dog trainer or veterinarian for a plan tailored to your dog’s needs, and temperament.
While shaker syndrome can affect dogs of any color, breed, or size, it most commonly shows up in West Highland White Terriers, Maltese, and Toy Poodles. Credit: Salima Senyavskaya | Getty Images
Despite its name, white dog shaker syndrome can affect dogs of any size and color. Once other causes for the tremors have been ruled out, treatment is generally straightforward with a good prognosis.
Why Do Small Dogs Shake?
Your dog may shake for a variety of reasons, many of which are perfectly normal. Some normal reasons for shaking or shivering include:
Your dog is cold
Your dog is scared or anxious
Your dog is dreaming as she sleeps
Your dog’s muscles are exhausted and need a break
These causes are pretty easy to recognize. If your dog is in a colder environment than she is used to, try putting a coat or blanket on her and see if the shivering resolves. If your dog is fast asleep, you can either wake her up or let her enjoy her dream. If something is causing your dog distress, comfort your dog and try to remove or avoid triggers of anxiety.
Muscle fatigue is most common in senior dogs who have lost a lot of muscle mass or in younger dogs who have engaged in extreme activity. In the case of the senior dog, she likely will have thin, poorly defined muscles, and you will notice tremors when she is walking or standing. Her muscles are tired and just can’t keep up. In the young dog, she likely also be panting from her intense exercise and have a wide, lolling tongue and a slightly tight expression. Her muscles are also tired, it just took a lot more activity to wear them out!
Regardless of the cause of muscle fatigue, the tremors will resolve once your dog has a chance to rest and relax.
White Dog Shaker Syndrome
Shaker syndrome in dogs goes by many names. Your veterinarian may describe it as non-suppurative meningoencephalomyelitis or steroid-responsive tremors.
Regardless of what you call it, white dog shaker syndrome is characterized by tremors throughout the head and body that are rhythmic and repetitive like shivering. The tremors are also involuntary, meaning that your dog can’t control them.
Affected dogs may just have tremors on one part of the head or body or may shake all over. Severity can vary from mild and unobtrusive to severe enough that the tremors interfere with your dog’s ability to walk or eat during an episode. Thankfully, it is not painful (though severe tremors may be distressing for your dog). Often the shaking will get worse when the dog is active or excited and subside when she is at rest.
The term “little white shaker dog” came about because the most commonly affected breeds are West Highland White Terriers, Maltese, and Toy Poodles. That said, any breed or mix of any size and color can develop shaker syndrome. Bichon Frises, Beagles, and Yorkshire Terriers are other breeds that get this condition a little more frequently.
Because of the breed tendencies, it is suspected that shaker syndrome in dogs has a genetic element and may be heritable. It usually shows up when the dog is 1 to 2 years old.
We don’t know why some dogs get shaker syndrome and so many others don’t. Researchers and veterinarians suspect that it is an autoimmune disorder, but there are still many questions.
How to Treat White Shaker Syndrome
If you suspect your dog may have shaker syndrome, the first step is to have a veterinary exam to rule out other potential causes of the tremors. This is especially critical if your dog also has other symptoms of illness.
Your vet will listen to your dog’s heart and may take an x-ray to check for signs of heart disease and will run bloodwork and a urinalysis to check for metabolic diseases such as liver disease, kidney disease, or diabetes. If your dog did not receive proper puppy vaccines or if she has other symptoms of illness, your vet may recommend testing for distemper virus and other infectious diseases.
Your vet will also ask if your dog has been exposed to anything toxic or could have gotten into something in your house, garage, or yard.
In more severe cases, your vet may refer you to a neurologist to have your dog evaluated for neurologic disorders. These might include idiopathic epilepsy, infectious meningitis, seizures due to a brain tumor, or stroke. The neurologist will give your dog a thorough neurologic exam and may recommend an MRI to look at the brain and/or a spinal tap to culture cerebral spinal fluid to check for infection. Thankfully, these measures are not usually necessary for most dogs with shaker syndrome.
Once other causes have been ruled out and shaker syndrome is the top diagnosis on your veterinarian’s list, treatment is usually straightforward. Prednisone is the most common treatment. Your dog should show improvement within one to two weeks of starting prednisone.
You will continue with the starting dose of prednisone until your dog’s tremors have completely resolved. At that point, your veterinarian will advise you on how to gradually taper the dose to find the lowest effective dose that keeps the tremors at bay.
Prednisone is a steroid which has potent effects on the immune system and can cause mild to severe side effects at high doses and over time. This is why it is important to keep in contact with your veterinarian and taper the dose as low as possible to balance controlling the tremors with preventing side effects. Common side effects from prednisone are increased thirst, urination, and appetite. Some dogs may become aggressive on prednisone. Over time, it can cause Cushing’s disease. If you think your dog is experiencing side effects from prednisone, talk to your veterinarian. Never stop prednisone abruptly.
Diazepam or midazolam are also sometimes used to treat shaker syndrome in dogs, along with other immunosuppressants. The plus to prednisone is that these are inexpensive and readily available.
Shaker syndrome in dogs has an excellent prognosis. Most dogs already have an excellent quality of life if they just have mild tremors and a customized dose of prednisone can keep unwanted shaking at bay.
The incredibly athletic and friendly Poodle is often one of the choices in creating “designer dogs.” The resulting mixes are called “Doodles.”
Credit: Christopher Furlong | Getty Images
What’s a designer dog? In a nutshell, a designer dog is the result of a purposeful breeding of two dogs of different breeds to create a new mix that brings out the most desired features in the two original breeds. The most popular designer dog breeds today include Poodles, which tend to be smart, athletic, and friendly. They’re also widely considered low-shedding dogs. Poodle-mix dogs are often grouped as “Doodles.”
Doodle dogs can be mixed with many different breeds, but the most popular are:
Labradoodles (Poodle and Labrador Retriever)
Goldendoodles (Poodle and Golden Retriever
Sheepadoodles (Poodle and Old English Sheepdog)
Bernedoodles (Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog)
Schnoodles (Poodle and Schnauzer)
Other popular dog breed mixes include:
Pomsky (Pomeranian and Husky)
Puggle (Pug and Beagle)
Chiweenies (Dachshund and Chihuahua)
Yorkiepoos (Yorkshire Terrier and Toy Poodle)
Boxadors (Boxer and Labrador)
Cockapoo (Poodle and Cocker Spaniel)
Most of these mixes are adorable, especially as puppies, which is why they are so popular. The public wants cute dogs, and that’s fine, but we must add that you can find cute dogs and puppies in shelters, too.
While many designer dog breeders promote the puppies as a “new breed,” they are, of course, just mixed breeds. The American Kennel Club recognizes 202 breeds as of 2025, and getting a breed officially recognized is not easy. It requires a national breed club and breed standard, at least 300 to 400 dogs with a three-generation pedigree (all the same breed), and a solid geographic distribution of the dogs.
Mixed designer breeds can be registered with the AKC for the purpose of competing in AKC sports. Registration with the AKC does not mean that a dog is a purebred. One must look at the type of registration.
Expensive Dogs
Ethical breeders perform health testing based on the individual breed and choose breeding animals for good temperaments and genes. Not all breeders of designer puppies care about health, good structure, and temperament when they breed two dogs, and they put high price tags on the pups. Note: Scientifically, there is no such thing as “hybrid vigor,” so mating between two different breeds isn’t going to automatically boost the resulting pup’s health. With most designer dogs, there is no mention of the lack of predictability of traits or genetic testing for disease, such as through the Canine Health Information Center.
The prices of designer dog breeds are largely inflated, often costing more than a true purebred dog. The puppies are often sold on generic websites with little solid information for the people looking for a cute puppy.
All Those Designer Doodle Dogs
If you’re buying a Poodle or a Doodle, you should know how crucial regular grooming is. Many of these breeds are also promoted as hypoallergenic. That is not the case. Families looking for a lack of shedding and minimal effect on breathing in allergens are often not given accurate information.
Additionally, Poodles are working breeds, which means they are active, intelligent dogs. With many Doodle mixes, this can mean that their energy levels rival the Energizer Bunny. Not all of them, of course. There are Doodles who are calmer than average and have stellar temperaments. They tend to be bred by someone who breeds for temperament and health and spends time training and socializing before a puppy goes to their new home. Good breeders are also available to provide information and support and potentially take back a dog (if the buyer cannot keep the dog for some reason) for the puppy’s lifetime.
Designer Dogs Are Mixed Breeds
The bottom line is that mixed breeds are just as lovable as purebreds. If you are not looking specifically for a purebred, you can often find what you are looking for in one of the many shelters and rescue groups in any given area. There are many Poodle mixes already in existence. Your veterinarian will be happy to put you in touch with ethical, legitimate shelters that will work with you to find the best dog for your family at a very low cost.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
