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Don’t Punish Your Dog For Being “Too Good”

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Photo by Kathy Callahan. This piece is in honor of the Callahan family’s dog Nala, who passed away at 13 years of age last summer.

So that you don’t have regrets later, here’s a quick public service announcement: Remember to appreciate your no-trouble-at-all dog! Sometimes our most naturally easy dogs end up being a little bit ignored precisely because they are wonderful to live with. Is that happening at your house?

Just yesterday I had yet another client articulate their ah-ha moment: “Oh my gosh, I’m feeling so guilty since we got the new puppy. Now that we’re working so hard training and entertaining the puppy, I’m realizing that it has been years since our good old boy has had a bully stick! And sure, we used to train with him – he loved it – but that just dwindled away because he’s really so easy to have around…”

I hear it all the time. So do your future self a favor and remember to appreciate that gift of a soul lying sweetly at your feet, day after day.

Just because you don’t need to give her a stuffed Toppl to keep her from destroying the house doesn’t mean she wouldn’t enjoy one.

Just because she doesn’t need a three-mile walk to be civilized for the day doesn’t mean she wouldn’t love that.

Just because she doesn’t jump all over you and you never need to ask her to sit, doesn’t mean she wouldn’t have an amazing time training and learning tricks with you.

Just because she isn’t pawing at you and getting constantly underfoot to make you sit and snuggle with her doesn’t mean she isn’t quietly wishing you’d get down and cuddle with her…

It’s not all about the “problem dog”

Most dog trainers have a story about the difficult dog who landed them on the road to this profession. The more issues there are, the more tools you need at your disposal. The result? You dive into training and enrichment, and end up super bonded to that challenging dog because that’s what extra time and engagement will do to a relationship.

So what of our dear, easy friends? The ones who’ll spend years just calmly hanging out in the house, demanding nothing? The ones watching us head out to a training class with our “difficult” dog, treat pouch in hand? This is just a little nudge to remember that each dog’s life is short, and while you may have many dogs in your lifetime, your dog just has this lifetime, and you.

A dozen years from now, you’ll be glad if you made sure to end every day with a little special time alone with that one no-trouble-at-all friend, gazing into her eyes and telling her you’re so very glad she’s here.

How to Choose the Best Canned Dog Food for your Dog

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Learn how to identify the best canned dog foods that are available at your local pet supply store – and to choose the ones that are right for your dog.

Why did we choose the products that are on our 2022 “Approved Canned Dog Foods” list (SUBSCRIBER ONLY: Click here to see the full list) and why we didn’t select others?

To build the list, we start by looking for companies who make products that meet our selection criteria:

Good canned dog foods should have an animal protein source or sources in at least one of the top two spots on the list of ingredients. Water or broth may also be first or second on the list, as water is often added as necessary for processing. But the animal proteins should appear immediately after that. The amino acid profiles offered by animal proteins suit dogs better than the amino acid profiles from peas, potatoes, corn, soy, etc.

Canned food is a particularly good way to buy and store meat for your dog. It’s shelf-stable and can last for years; you don’t have to use it quickly (except after opening the can) or keep it cold (except after opening).

We look for whole, named sources of animal protein. “Whole” means meat, rather than meat-by-products, and “named” means you want to see “beef,” “chicken,” “lamb,” etc., rather than “meat.”

If plant proteins are present in the food, we’d like to see them play a minor role, appearing lower on the ingredient list – lower than the fifth or sixth position.

When vegetables, fruits, grains, and/or other carbohydrate sources are used, we’d like to see them present whole as opposed to a “fraction” or by-product. For example, we’d rather see “whole brown rice” than “rice flour.” By-products and fractions are often ingredients that are waste from human food manufacturing; they’ve already been processed, shipped, and stored before they will be mixed and processed again, losing vitamins along the way.

But honestly, we’d rather see simple, meat-heavy formulas without too many carb sources in canned foods. Carbs can be delivered to dog much less expensively through dry foods and/or fresh foods.

There are some attributes we don’t want to see in canned dog foods, too. We won’t accept any products with unnamed meats or fat sources (i.e., “meat,” “meat by-products,” “poultry,” “poultry by-products,” or “animal fat”).

We also don’t want to see any artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. None of these are needed (or common, thankfully) in canned food.

If this all sounds very basic so far – it is! But if you look at the ingredients of all the canned dog foods in your local pet supply store – or, in particular, the products sold in grocery stores or big-box stores – very few of the biggest name canned foods you will find will meet these very minimal characteristics of good-quality dog foods.

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: Whole Dog Journal’s 2022 Approved Canned Dog Foods

RANGE OF CANNED DOG FOOD PRODUCTS

If you do look at the database – or go to the company websites and look at ingredient lists – you’ll notice that the foods on our list vary quite a bit in ingredient quality. But remember that even the lowest-quality food on our list is better than most products that are not on our list.

Keep in mind that quality is linked to price, and that price will, to a certain extent, indicate better-quality ingredients. It definitely helps identify more ethical ingredients, such as certified organic ingredients, wild-caught fish, grass-fed meats, and cage-free poultry.

In some cases, high prices correlate to products that are made in human-food manufacturing facilities, which means that all of the ingredients in them are “food grade” (legally human-edible), not “feed grade” (only for use in animal feed). All of the products being made in human-food manufacturing facilities are packaged in the lined cardboard cartons called Tetra-Paks – but be aware that not all foods packed in Tetra-Paks were made in a human-food manufacturing facility. Sadly, imitators abound wherever an advantage can be found.

You may be surprised to see some large companies that have historically made “mainstream” products (of generally lower quality) on our list. Some of the largest pet food makers have caught on that there is a market for high-end products, even in mass-market retail outlets.

You might also notice the return of a few companies that were previously on our “Approved Canned Foods” lists but that we had removed due to their inclusion animal plasma, an ingredient that we had a bad feeling about, especially after the bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) crises in past years (which were caused by the use of brain and spinal cord tissues in animal feed).

This high-protein ingredient, harvested at beef and pork slaughter plants, has given us pause for ages – and recently, it’s begun to appear in more and more products. Porcine plasma has long been used by Nature’s Logic, which is the only company on our list that uses feeding trials to prove the nutritional adequacy of its foods (which costs a lot of money). While we liked everything else about Nature’s Logic’s products, its inclusion of plasma kept us away for years.

Our conversion to approval of this ingredient was slow, recent, and based on a very thorough presentation by a plasma-industry representative on the product’s safety and benefits. Most notably, the addition of animal plasma products in dog foods has been shown improve immune-system function.

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: Whole Dog Journal’s 2022 Approved Canned Dog Foods

YOUR MISSION: TO SELECT A CANNED DOG FOOD THAT SUITS YOUR DOG

We did our job; we’ve given you a list of foods that are far better than most. Now your task is to find foods that are appropriate for and “perform well” in your dog. Let’s define those:

“Appropriate for your dog” means that you need to read the ingredients label to make sure you are not buying a food that contains any ingredients he’s allergic to or intolerant of. In order to do that, you have to keep track of what you have been feeding him and how he’s responded to it.

It also means that you need to have an idea of how much protein and fat – or at least calories – your dog needs. Canned foods, being full of meat (we hope), tend to be very high in protein and fat. Many canned foods contain way too much fat, especially for overweight dogs or dogs who are prone to pancreatitis. You need to check the “guaranteed analysis” to make sure that you don’t choose a food that, for example, contains twice as much fat as your dog has been eating.

And finally, “appropriate” means you have chosen a food that is formulated for dogs of your dog’s life stage. You have to find the teeny, tiny print on the label that indicates whether it’s been formulated to be “complete and balanced” for “dogs of all life stages” or just “adult maintenance,” a standard that allows for less protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, and a few vitamins. Puppies need to eat foods that are formulated for “growth” or for dogs “of all life stages,” a term that encompasses the puppy/growth requirements.

“Performs well” in your dog means that the product doesn’t upset your dog’s stomach, causing vomiting, diarrhea, or constipation. You want to improve or maintain your dog’s smooth digestion, build a nice stool (not too hard and not too soft), and reduce or eliminate excessive gas. The food should maintain or improve his health, skin, coat, appetite, and energy; neither make your dog fat nor thin; and, if he’s a puppy, provide for an appropriate rate of growth (not too fast, not too slow). As a bonus, your dog should like the taste and be glad to get it!

How the heck are you supposed to find the foods that perform like this in your dog? Well, like everything: It takes a little bit of economics (you can only buy what’s in your budget) and a little bit of science (keep track of what you are feeding and observe and record the results).

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: Whole Dog Journal’s 2022 Approved Canned Dog Foods

Download The Full October 2022 Issue PDF

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  • Get a Can Do Attitude
  • Approved Canned Foods
  • An Overlooked Dog
  • Parvovirus Perils
  • Emotional Urination
  • Excessive Panting
  • Chocolate Toxicity
  • Are There Behavior Benefits of Spay/Neuter?
  • Dangerous Plants
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Reverse Sneezing in Dogs

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Reverse sneezing is dogs is caused by irritation at the back of the throat.
When dogs are in the middle of a reverse-sneezing event, they typically take a wide, stiff-legged stance, and stretch their necks forward, heads up. They may look a bit like they are choking but the noise they make sounds more like snorting. The dog may also look slightly alarmed or distressed while while reverse sneezing, but usually will swallow and lick his lips and appear normal afterward. ©Erik Lam | Dreamstime.com

A regular sneeze is when air is forcefully exhaled through the nose, often as a single event but sometimes as several sneezes in rapid succession. What in the world though is reverse sneezing in dogs? It is when air is repeatedly and forcefully inhaled through the nose, resulting in a snort that can look and sound alarming.

A tickle at the back of your dog’s throat initiates a reverse sneeze, much like the tickle inside your or your dog’s nose that initiates a regular sneeze. This tickle causes a muscle spasm in your dog’s throat. The muscle spasm causes an involuntary rapid inhalation of air. The opening of your dog’s trachea (windpipe) becomes narrowed and your dog will extend his or her neck to expand the airway. Your dog will make snorting sounds each time he or she inhales and may swallow hard or gasp for air. This spasm can continue for 30 to 60 seconds.

The most common causes of reverse sneezing are inhaled irritants, such as pollen, perfumes, and cleaning products (especially ones with a strong odor). Certain viruses, upper respiratory infections, or post-nasal drip can also cause reverse sneezing in dogs. Pulling hard on a leash or foreign material in the throat can initiate a reverse sneeze. Rarely, nasal mites or polyps are the inciting cause.

How to help a dog a dog with a reverse sneeze

Although it looks and sounds horrible, an episode of reverse sneezing is no worse than sneezing out through your nose several times in a row. Reverse sneezes will stop and do not cause any overt stress or harm to your dog. Most cases of reverse sneezing do not require any immediate medical intervention and resolve quickly on their own – but there are exceptions. Have your dog evaluated by her veterinarian if she has repeated episodes of reverse sneezing.

When to worry about reverse sneezing

Brachycephalic dogs (like Boxers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Bulldogs) are more prone to episodes of reverse sneezing because of a condition called an elongated soft palate. The soft palate is an extension of the hard palate, or roof of the mouth. Some brachycephalic dogs have a soft palate that is longer than usual. When these dogs reverse sneeze, the abnormal air flow tends to suck the soft palate over the opening of the trachea, further occluding the flow of air. These dogs also tend to snort when excited, snore when sleeping, and have overall noisier breathing than non-brachycephalic dogs. An elongated soft palate is one aspect of brachycephalic airway syndrome. Talk to your veterinarian about diagnosis and management (surgical and medical) of brachycephalic airway syndrome if you have one of these breeds of dogs with these signs.

Reverse sneezing is most often associated with a snorting sound. Small dogs who have an episode of making a repeated honking sound, especially after excitement or drinking water, may have collapsing trachea. Large breed dogs that have an episode of making repeated goose-honking sounds with or without collapse or difficulty breathing may have laryngeal paralysis. These dogs should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

What can I do for my dog when she is reverse-sneezing?

You can help your dog by talking to her softly and keeping her calm. Gently massaging your dog’s neck can help to stop the muscle spasm. Sometimes blowing puffs of air at your dog’s nose will stop the reverse sneeze.

Can Dogs Get Concussions?

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Car safety harnesses are designed to hold dogs securely against the car’s seat in case of a collision. Look for crash-tested products with wide straps and a wide, padded chest plate, as seen here in RuffWear’s Load Up Dog Car Harness. ©Nancy Kerns.

In case you’ve wondered, perhaps after suffering an automobile accident with your dog in the car: Yes, dogs can experience a concussion and the brain injury associated with it. Canine concussions happen because of:

  • Accidents involving cars, motorcycles, or other vehicles
  • Falling from elevated surfaces like windows, decks, or steep hillsides
  • Being dropped or falling onto the ground or a floor
  • Collisions with other dogs
  • Collisions with trees, buildings, fences, heavy furniture, and other hard surfaces
  • Kicks from horses, cattle, or other large animals
  • Accidental blunt force injuries such as being hit with a ball, baseball bat, falling tree, tree limb, or falling debris

The point of impact does not have to be the head itself. If severe enough, indirect impact can cause a dog’s brain to move within the skull with enough force to cause a concussion.

What dogs are at risk of concussions?

Obviously, dogs who love to chase cars, play around traffic, or engage in risky behaviors are concussions waiting to happen. So are dogs who ride in cars with their heads out the window, are not in a secure crate, or are not wearing a canine seatbelt. Dogs in cars that get into accidents can hit windshields and roadways with the same consequences as people who aren’t wearing seatbelts.

Most dogs have thick skulls that protect them from minor injuries, but small dogs with delicate skulls such as toy breeds and dogs with short skulls are at greater-than-average risk of concussions. Open fontanelles are soft spots in the skull caused by gaps between the skull’s growth plates, and they exist in all infant puppies. As puppies mature, the skull’s growth plates fuse together and fontanelles gradually close. However, a common genetic condition can prevent fontanelles from closing in:

  • Chihuahuas
  • miniature Dachshunds
  • Pomeranians
  • Shih Tzus
  • Yorkshire Terriers

Maltese

  • Lhasa Apsos
  • Pekingese

The growth plates in these breeds can simply fail to fuse, leaving a persistent soft spot in the skull. This is why young puppies of all breeds and puppies and adults of the breeds listed here should be checked by a veterinarian immediately after any injury that could result in a concussion.

How to tell if your dog has a concussion

Some concussions produce obvious symptoms within a few minutes while others take much longer. A dog with a concussion may appear to be fine immediately after an accident but show symptoms a few hours or even days later.

The most dramatic symptom of a concussion is a loss of consciousness. If your dog is unconscious, call your veterinarian or emergency clinic to let them know what happened, follow their instructions, and bring your dog in as quickly as possible.

If your dog is awake, check for any of the following symptoms and contact your veterinarian at once if you notice:

  • Vomiting
  • A lack of coordination or loss of balance
  • Anisocoria, in which the eyes’ pupils are different sizes, with one larger than the other
  • A lack of response, depression, looking dull or sedated, seeming disoriented or confused
  • Turning in circles
  • Shaking or having seizures
  • Rapid side-to-side or up-and-down eye movements
  • Bleeding from the nose or ears
  • Any sign that your dog is going into shock (rapid pulse, bright red gums, the dog is weak or lethargic, eyes glaze over, breathing changes to slow and shallow or deep and rapid)
  • Loss of bowel control
  • Loss of appetite
  • Difficulty waking up after dozing or nodding off
  • Standing with the head pressed against a wall, called head leaning
  • Any other behavior that is unusual for your dog

Even if these symptoms don’t seem severe, it’s important to have your dog checked if you notice any of them because concussions can cause permanent brain damage, and an injured dog may suffer from internal bleeding or get hurt in a second accident that occurs because the original injury interferes with balance and coordination.

How to transport your dog for medical treatment

Be sure to call ahead so the staff at your veterinary clinic can be ready to receive your dog and so you can follow whatever instructions your veterinarian may give.

  • If your dog is unconscious, have a friend help you lift her safely into your car using a board or stretcher, if available.
  • Try to reposition the dog as little as possible. This is especially important if there might be broken bones or nerve damage.
  • If your dog is unconscious, open her mouth and gently pull her tongue forward to ensure that she can breathe, always being cautious when doing so.
  • Keep your dog’s head slightly elevated with a pillow or cushion. This will help relieve pressure on the brain.
  • Remove your dog’s neck collar so it won’t interfere with blood flow to the brain. If your dog is able to walk and if one is available, use a harness with a leash attachment at the chest in front or on the back, or loop a leash around one side of the neck and between the dog’s front legs.
  • In cool or cold weather, cover your dog with a blanket.
  • Stay calm and speak soothingly to your dog. Any sensory stimulation can trigger pain, fear, anxiety, or seizures, so stay as relaxed and reassuring as possible.

How will the vet clinic treat your dog for concussion?

Injured dogs with possible concussions are given an overall examination, and if they are in shock, that condition is treated immediately. Supplemental oxygen and intravenous fluids are given as needed along with anti-inflammatory medication to reduce brain swelling.

Depending on the extent of the injury, your dog may be kept overnight or longer for observation or for treatment as needed.

How to help your dog recover from a concussion

When it comes to concussions, time is the main healer. At home your task for at least two weeks will be to make your dog comfortable, calm, and mostly sedentary. Full recovery may take as long as six months. A calm, quiet environment and protection from being disturbed or distracted will speed your dog’s healing.

Stairs can be challenging when a dog’s balance is affected, so keep your dog downstairs or stay with him when climbing stairs to prevent new injuries.

If your dog needs ointments for wounds, dressings, or other medications, follow your veterinarian’s instructions.

Preventing dog concussions

Most concussions – and by far the most serious concussions – occur when dogs get hit by cars, when they fall from high places, or when they are injured by other animals. These interactions are almost always preventable.

  • When outdoors, keep your dog on a leash unless you’re in a safe area far from traffic and other distractions.
  • Don’t leave your dog outside unless you have a securely fenced yard. An electronic collar-based barrier will not protect your dog from possible injuries.
  • When taking your dog for rides in the car, use a well-designed pet seatbelt or other restraint. (Read our review of dog car harnesses). Practice defensive driving, go slowly, and stay observant to keep your canine passenger safe.

All About Elevated Dog Bowls

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Dogs who suffer from arthritis (especially in their necks and shoulders) or who have had spinal surgery may find it much more comfortable to eat and drink from elevated dog bowls. Owners of large or giant dogs with arthritis who are considering raised dog bowls will have to weigh the increased risk of bloat with the benefit of making eating and drinking more comfortable for their dogs. ©Nancy Kerns

To elevate or not to elevate – that is the question. Elevated dog bowls (also called raised dog bowls) have become popular for a lot of reasons – not the least of which is that they are available in many attractive finishes and materials. Another reason elevated bowls are becoming popular is that they look more comfortable to eat from, compared to a plate on the floor. However, are elevated dog bowls good for dogs? Consider that dogs are naturally accustomed to eating and drinking from a plate or bowl on the floor. They’ve evolved with their meals on the ground.

Who should not eat from elevated dog bowls

Ironically, it was owners of large and giant breed dogs who started the trend toward elevated dog bowls, but their dogs are the ones most likely to develop a life-threatening condition when fed from a raised bowl. Large and giant-breed dogs who eat from an elevated feeder have an increased risk of developing gastric dilation and volvulus (GDV, also known as “bloat” and “turning of the stomach”).

GDV is a medical emergency of the highest order. It comes on suddenly. A dog with GDV will be restless and may pace. Drooling and panting are common. His belly may look distended, and he may react painfully to pressure placed on his left flank. The symptom that clinches the diagnosis is unproductive retching, like the dog is trying to vomit but can’t. A dog with these symptoms needs veterinary care as soon as possible.

A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association in November 2000 examined risk factors for developing GDV. The study identified other factors that more strongly contributed to the incidence of GDV, but eating from raised feeders was implicated in a significant percentage of cases of GDV in large and giant-breed dogs.

No one knows why eating from an elevated bowl might increase the likelihood of GDV in large- and giant-breed dogs, though some speculate that the higher head position causes the dog to swallow more air as they eat. But eating and drinking from floor-level bowls does not increase the risk of GDV in dogs of any size, so that’s where I’d suggest owners put most dogs’ bowls.

Who may benefit from eating from raised dog bowls

In contrast, elevated feeders may be beneficial for dogs who have been diagnosed with arthritis in their neck or forelimbs and have difficulty or pain when lowering their head to eat or drink. Dogs who have suffered a neck injury or have had cervical-spine surgery also may benefit from having their food and water bowls raised.

If you think your dog would benefit from elevated bowls, discuss your dog’s condition with their veterinarian prior to making the purchase. For all other dogs, bowls on the floor are just what the doctor ordered.

Otto is still here

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dog laying in shade
This is where Otto prefers to spend much of his day: in his dampened sandbox in the shade. When it was over 100° in the shade, he couldn't get comfortable in there, and yet he didn't want to be indoors where it was cooler, and his overall, all-day, all-night discomfort had me in a panic. ©Nancy Kerns | The Whole Dog Journal

Last week, I was 100% sure I would be having Otto euthanized at today’s appointment with a veterinarian who provides hospice and home-euthanasia services. I won’t beat around the bush; he’s still with us.

There was one important difference between last week and this: The “heat dome” that has kept California roasting for over a week finally broke, and temperatures dropped all the way down into the 80s, a welcome relief from a week with daily highs over 110°F. As dawn broke this morning, we even got a little spotty rain – bizarre for this area and this time of year, but welcome just the same.

As I said in my last post, Otto has never liked heat, and as an old guy, set in his ways, he was super grumpy about not being able to lay in his damp, shady sandbox outside. He didn’t want to be kept indoors (protected from the heat); he wanted to be outside, but outside was just awful! So he was extra miserable.

The veterinarian who came to my home today was impressed by Otto’s insistence at joining the scrum of dogs to greet her at my home-office door, even as young Boone and middle-aged Woody were knocking into him in their effusive greetings. She also was impressed by his intense interest in the treats I gave her to introduce herself to him. He’s also completely continent, in contrast to many of her other patients. Apparently, a lot of the dogs she sees in this type of practice are much closer to the end before their owners call her in, to the point where they won’t get up to greet someone, aren’t eating much, and are in diapers.

That made me feel a little bad; was I being over-anxious, pulling the trigger too soon? Maybe it’s the fact that I’ve been at the deathbed of loved ones – humans – who were in hospice care as well as those who were unable to receive hospice care for some reason; I just don’t want anyone I love to suffer before death. I’ve seen deathbed suffering; it’s ugly and unnecessary.

The doctor put some of my fears at ease. We discussed Otto’s panting, which I have interpreted as a symptom of pain and anxiety. She agreed that pain and anxiety could be a factor in his almost non-stop panting, but said something I’ve never heard before, that a lot of old dogs have enlarged livers (as I have been told Otto also has) and that as the liver enlarges, it pushes up against the diaphragm, and requires a little more forceful breathing.

She agreed that his front paws and elbows appear to be paining him quite a bit, and she could see how he has altered his posture to compensate, but thought that the amount of difficulty he shows in getting up from laying down is not too bad. As skinny as his thighs feel to me now, she thought his muscle tone was decent, given his age.

She also made me feel a bit better about the panic I was in last week. She said that a lot of old dogs have good days and bad days, and even good weeks and bad weeks, but that she often sees old dogs who look like they are death’s door bounce back when minor issues are addressed – and that the heat of last week was just pushing him past his ability to tolerate his chronic arthritic discomfort.

We reviewed his medications; he’s currently on omeprazole (for acid reflux), Galliprant (a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory), and Tramadol (a synthetic opioid). She suggested I add gabapentin back into the mix. I have had him on gabapentin before, for many months while he was also being given the Galliprant, but I could not say I ever saw any difference in either his discomfort or sleeping patterns when he was on it. But she thought the third medication might complement the Galliprant and Tramadol together, so I’ll give that a try again.

dogs swimming in lake
Two big fires are burning in northern California, and though one is about 60 miles away and the other is about 150 miles from here, the air quality in the entire Sacramento Valley was awful at the end of last week. That’s the sun going down in the reddish-brown haze over our evening wading and swimming session. ©Nancy Kerns | The Whole Dog Journal

All in all, even though he seemed so much better today than he did last week, I’m so glad I brought this vet in for this examination and consultation. Given Otto’s lifelong aversion to slippery floors and most dogs’ apprehension to going to a vet’s office, it’s understandable that when I take him to see one of his regular vets, he always looks worse than he does as home, wide-eyed, trembling, and shaky. A month ago, I brought him to see his internal medicine doctor, and she seemed more dubious about his ability to go on than even I was last week. This morning, on his home turf, Otto seemed, for the most part, like a creaky, limpy, lumpy version of his usual unfailingly well-mannered and friendly self – if a little more unselfconscious about begging for treats than he ever used to be. Now this veterinarian will have an idea about his current baseline – where he is now, and what “too much” might look like. And I got some reassurance that I’m not doing to wrong thing by trying to keep him around at least a little longer.

A final note: Thank you all for your comments with support and advice. I read and appreciate every single one. I feel truly honored to be able to share my magnificent Otto with you, and I am grateful for your care and feeling for him more than I can possibly say.

How Long are Dogs in Heat?

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Female dogs can be in heat for about two or three weeks, with some females having a “silent” heat. ©Nancy Kerns

Intact (unspayed) female dogs will typically have their first heat cycle two to three months after they reach their full adult size. For smaller breed dogs, this is typically between 6 and 8 months of age but could be as early as 4 months. For larger breed dogs, this may be as late as 2 years of age. Dogs can be in heat for an average of two to three weeks, going through a two-phase heat cycle.

How often do female dogs go into heat?

If they do not become pregnant as a result of mating during their heat cycle, most female dogs will experience another heat cycle in about six months. However, some dogs may start their next heat cycle as early as four months later and others as much as eight months later. If you have a purebred dog, find out what is typical for your breed. For example, the Basenji breed has only one heat cycle per year.

What to expect when your dog is in heat

Just before entering a heat cycle, dogs may:

  • not have as much energy as usual
  • their appetite may decrease
  • they may become nervous and easily startled.

It is important to note that these signs can also accompany many illnesses that have nothing to do with a heat cycle. Please consult your veterinarian if you have any questions about changes in your dog’s behavior.

How long are dogs in heat and how long do they bleed?

Dogs have two phases to their heat cycle. During the first phase (called proestrus) there will be a bloody discharge from her vulva. Her vulva will become swollen and prominent. Male dogs will begin to show an interest in her. She may become aggressive toward male dogs during the first part of this phase. As this phase progresses, she will stop being aggressive toward male dogs but will sit down when they approach her. Proestrus lasts an average of nine days but can be as short as three days and as long as 17 days.

During the second phase (called estrus), the discharge from her vulva will become straw-colored but may have a hint of brown or red color. When approached by a male dog, she will stand and lift her tail over her back or held off to the side (this is called “flagging”). Her vulva will decrease in size but will still be swollen. When she is ready, she will allow a male dog to mount her for mating. Estrus lasts an average of nine days and can be as short as three days and as long as 18 days.

The total time of both phases of “heat” is about two to three weeks. The female dog will discontinue having discharge from her vulva by the end of the second phase and her vulva will slowly return to its original size.

If she and a male dog mated during estrus and she became pregnant, her pregnancy will last approximately 63 days (about nine weeks).

What is a silent heat in a female dog?

Some dogs may appear to miss one of their heat cycles, without exhibiting any obvious signs of proestrus or estrus, such as vulvar swelling or vaginal discharge, even when they are, in fact, experiencing those stages and can become pregnant. This is called a “silent cycle” or “silent heat.” Owners of intact females should be attentive to this possibility – and how often do dogs go into heat, how long do dogs bleed when they are in heat, what to expect when your dog is in heat – if they do not want the female to become pregnant.

How to prevent your dog from becoming pregnant

There are a number of surgeries that can be performed to prevent your dog from becoming pregnant. The most common “spaying” procedure is called an ovariohysterectomy – a surgical procedure in which her ovaries and uterus are removed. Some owners prefer their veterinarians to perform an alternative surgery called an ovariectomy, in which only the dog’s ovaries are removed. Ovariectomies are quicker to perform and dogs tend to recover more quickly, too.

In recent years, some studies have suggested that intact dogs have fewer health problems than dogs who matured without the influence of normal secondary sexual hormones on their development. However, the studies do not show a clear-cut correlation and there are variations by breed and size of the dog. Also, the increased risk of mammary cancer in intact females and late-spayed females has been very well established.

Owners who wish to prevent pregnancy in their dogs but also wish to preserve the source and influence of the female’s sexual hormones can look for a veterinarian who can perform tubal ligation surgery (where the dog’s fallopian tubes are cut and/or blocked) or a hysterectomy (where the uterus is removed but the ovaries are left in place).

Note that dogs who have retained their ovaries will continue to experience heat cycles and attract the attention of male dogs. They cannot become pregnant but will be receptive to mating when they are in estrus.

If a dog is currently in heat, you will need to wait until three weeks after her heat cycle has finished to have her spayed. This allows the uterus to return to its original size and reduces the risk of surgical complications.

Why Do Dogs Tilt Their Heads?

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Dogs tilt their head for a variety of reasons, including to hear better or when they are paying attention. © Nancy Kerns

If you assume that your dog is paying extra attention when he tilts his head, you’re right. Veterinary behaviorists theorize that dogs and puppies tilt their heads for a number of reasons:

  • T hear better by orienting their ears toward whatever is making a sound
  • To see something clearly, without their noses being in the way
  • To communicate interest through body language
  • To receive a reward such as attention, petting, or prolonged contact

Dogs tilt their heads as a sign of intelligence

Now scientists say that head tilting can also be a sign of intelligence, a behavior that occurs when dogs process relevant, meaningful information. In June 2022, the journal Animal Cognition published a Hungarian university study that analyzed head tilting in dogs. The authors explained, “We hypothesized that head tilts may be related to increased attention and could be explained by lateralized mental functions.” The researchers divided 40 dogs into two groups, one having typical or average learning abilities and the other called “gifted word learners,” because the dogs in that group knew the names of toys.

All of the dogs learned the names of two new, novel toys. In experiments conducted after one, two and three months, the new toys were arranged with other toys on the floor of a separate room. Only the gifted dogs recognized and retrieved the new toys at a level above chance, and they were significantly more likely to tilt their heads when their owners said the name of one of the new toys.

Our dogs respond when we speak to them, and if your dog is tilting her head, this may be a perfect moment for training or to teach her a new word. In fact, head tilting may be a sign that your pup understands what you’re saying. Smart dog!

End of life decisions

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elderly dog with arthritis
Otto looking miserable in my office. His posture and panting indicate pain and discomfort. It's cool in here, and the other dogs are not panting. © Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

Three years ago I wrote a blog post about “how to know when the time is right for euthanasia.” A the time, I had three friends and family members who were facing this decision. One dog, Beau, was euthanized not long after I wrote the post. Lena lasted another year before her owner decided that the dog was too disabled to go on. Chaco, the third dog is still living, the last I heard (I don’t hear from that friend very often anymore). But as I said in the post. I hoped it would be at least several years before I was mulling this topic again.

Well, here we are, almost exactly three years later. Guys, I’m having to think hard about this right now, with my nearly 15-year-old heart dog, Otto.

He had surgery on his liver about four years ago, and we keep an eye on that organ with annual abdominal ultrasounds, to make sure that the benign growth that was removed hasn’t grown back. He’s had a handful of teeth extracted for various reasons, including one broken and several cracked. And he’s been receiving an increasing amount and variety of medications for arthritis pain for a couple of years now.

But until recently, he honestly looked pretty darn good for his age. This last year, though, as the arthritis pain has ramped up, he’s moving less, and has lost a lot of muscle tone, especially in his rear legs. His weight is a few pounds less than his ideal “high school weight” and he’s a little on the ribby side – but I’m trying to keep him on the light side, to reduce the burden on his arthritic joints. His worst arthritis is in his elbows and front paws, and the pain seems to be altering his stance – which is probably causing more pain in his shoulders and back. In the past few weeks, all of a sudden (it seems), he just looks awful when he stands around, swaybacked and panting, and with his ears back and face tense.

We’re having a really hideous heat wave in California right now, so that’s not helping as I try to figure out how much of his panting is due to pain and how much is the heat. He’s always hated being hot. Now it’s even too hot for him to find relief, as he’s always done, by digging a hole in his dampened sandbox, in the shade of an umbrella under an oak tree. For the past few days, it’s been over 100 degrees in the shade! I’ve had to make him come in my office and stay with me and the other dogs where it’s cooler – but he hates this, too. He lays down for a few minutes, then gets up, pacing and panting. He scratches at the door, wanting out. I open the door and he gets only halfway through when the wall of heat makes him stop and remember why he’s not already out there. He turns around, stiffly, and stands for long minutes in the middle of my office, panting and with that awful, painful-looking posture, before laying down again. This just breaks my heart! I don’t want him to be in pain.

Is it the dementia that makes him forget it’s too hot to go outside? Absent-mindedness? Stubbornness? Why can’t he seem to get comfortable in my cool office? There are three beds, of varying heights and softness, and he gets first dibs on any of them. But he just doesn’t want to be in here, he wants the heat to go away and he wants to be in his sandbox. I know the heat is temporary, but his arthritis pain is not.

I don’t want him to suffer.

I use several different assessment tools, developed by various experts on hospice and end-of-life issues for dogs, in an attempt to find some objective data points to help me decide whether “it’s time.”

On one, the result translates to, “Quality of life is a definite concern. Changes will likely become more progressive and more severe in the near future. Veterinary guidance will help you better understand the end stages of your pet’s disease process in order to make a more informed decision of whether to continue hospice care or elect peaceful euthanasia.”

On another, the score indicates, “Everything is okay.”

On a third, the score suggests that Otto has “acceptable life quality to continue with pet hospice.”

I discuss Otto’s condition with close friends who know him. My trainer friend Sarah suggests a consultation with a veterinarian who has a housecall practice and specializes in hospice care for animal companions. Well, why and how the heck did I not think of that on my own? I called and made an appointment for next week. For now, a load has been taken off of my mind. I will trust someone whose practice is mostly animals at the end of their lives to help me with this decision.

dog swimming in lake
Much more comfortable in the lake. If only I had a lake in my backyard! But 5 or so miles is not too far to drive every day, if it keeps him happy. © Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

And in the meantime, of course, the goal is to give Otto the best possible daily experience I am capable of delivering to him. I’m trying to make up for his unhappiness with the heat and the unaccustomed confinement in my (cool) office by taking him and my other dogs to the lake every evening. There’s a place that has a sandy, gravelly (but not sharp) bottom and with water that gets only very, very gradually deeper. It’s where I like to bring small dogs, novice swimmers, and now, my old guy, too.

As shallow as it is close to shore, the water is refreshing but not cold. We can linger at dusk, when the other lake-visitors are all gone, and not get a chill. Woody asks me to throw his ball, and he bounds through the shallow water, happily fetching. Boone looks for opportunities to steal the ball from Woody and then play “catch me if you can!” Otto wades back and forth, back and forth – not like his nighttime dementia pacing, but like a happy water buffalo. Every so often he wades into the deeper water and swims a bit, and then comes back, tail wagging slowly on the surface of the water, looking extremely content. When he’s like this, the end feels far away from now, and I find a little bit of hope that it truly is.

The secret to dog-training success

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The Recall

One of my ex-boyfriends from many, many years ago had a sort of dad-joke he’d tell at least once daily. Any time he saw someone doing something with skill, he’d remark on that skill to any other observer and then, with all seriousness, he’d ask, “Well, you know what it takes to do that?” When the other observer would fall into the trap and ask, “No, what?” he’d answer, “Practice!”

Often, I was the hapless person who fell into his trap. When someone asks the question, “Do you know what it takes to do that?” one naturally expects to hear a trick, a shortcut, or some key detail – not that it takes practice. Duh! Nothing comes without practice!

But though it drove me crazy to hear that it takes practice to do complex math in one’s head, or perform a sleight-of-hand trick for a bartender, or paint a straight and dead-level pin-stripe on one’s car, I found myself picking up the habit of telling my own son, and later, my grandson, the same joke. How did I learn to tie that knot, balance on a slackline, back a trailer with accuracy, or speak Spanish? Practice, every time! Both my son and my grandson are just as aggravated as I used to be when told practice is the key – but I also think they get the point. Great competence or skill at tasks is acquired only through repetition.

training touch with dog
Training your dog requires decent observation skills, timing, and some physical coordination. ©Whole Dog Journal

Which brings me to training our dogs. I recently taught a few basic dog training classes, filling in at my friend’s training center for another instructor who was ill. The participants in the classes had all paid a pretty penny for their admission to the classes, and were eager to teach basic skills to their dogs. But when I asked the participants how many of them had practiced the exercises they had learned in the previous week’s class over the course of the week, fewer than half of the students held up their hands. Not only had they not practiced their part in working with their dogs, they denied their dogs the opportunity to learn to do behaviors on cue – behaviors that their owners desperately wanted them to do!

Training your dog requires decent observation skills, timing, and some physical coordination (to, at a minimum, provide consistent cues and deliver the dog’s reinforcers – and that’s not counting handling a leash!). If you want snappy sits and downs, reliable recalls, sturdy stays, and coordinated loose-leash work, you have to practice! Try to practice teaching your dog the behaviors you want him to learn in at least once session per day and keep in mind that most dogs will learn faster if you practice in many short sessions per day than in one very long session per day.

Urgent warning for dog owners: Parvo-like illness spreading in Michigan, killing dogs

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sick puppy parvovirus
© Vitpluz | Dreamstime.com

Recently, a dog was admitted to a veterinary hospital in northern Michigan with symptoms that looked just like those of canine parvovirus type 2 (also known as CPV, CPV2, or just “parvo”) – vomiting, profuse and bloody diarrhea, and lack of appetite – but the dog tested negative for CPV. Soon, other veterinarians in the area began reporting an uptick in the number of cases of suspected CPV – but some dogs tested positive for parvo and some did not, and most of the young dogs with the parvo-like symptoms died.

These cases were reported to the Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development (MDARD), which also received reports from animal control agencies in northern Michigan regarding dogs with the same symptoms. Today, MDARD is working in partnership with local animal control agencies, the Michigan Association of Animal Control Officers, local veterinarians, the Michigan State University Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory (MSU VDL), and U.S. Department of Agriculture to share information about these cases, which have affected dogs who are fully vaccinated against CPV and dogs with incomplete immunization alike.

Officials at one shelter, the Otsego County Animal Shelter, have been quoted as saying they have seen deaths in only those dogs who were not “properly vaccinated.” They have urged all dog owners in the state to contact their veterinarians to make sure their dogs are current on their vaccinations.

As officials learn more, MDARD is encouraging animal shelters, boarding and daycare kennels, and veterinary staff to follow their strictest intake and vaccination protocols when bringing in new dogs/puppies and continue to follow required isolation protocols and recommended cleaning/disinfection procedures for surfaces and equipment.

For dog owners, especially those living in or traveling with pets to Michigan, MDARD strongly recommends keeping up with routine vaccinations by ensuring dogs/puppies are vaccinated against parvovirus, rabies, canine distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, and leptospirosis. And if dogs or puppies are exhibiting signs of illness, keep them at home and away from other dogs and contact your veterinarian.

Fear of viral mutation

CPV first emerged among dogs in Europe around 1976. By 1978 the virus had spread unchecked, causing a worldwide epidemic of myocarditis (inflammation of the heart) and gastroenteritis (inflammation in the intestines).

CPV is closely related to feline panleukopenia virus (FPV), a virus that has been known since the 1920s to infect cats, mink, and other animals. CPV probably arose as the result of two or three genetic mutations in FPV that allowed it to expand its host range to infect dogs. FPV in cats is highly contagious and has a high mortality rate.

The Baker Institute for Animal Health at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine first isolated the virus in 1978, and by 1979 had developed the first vaccine for parvo. By 1981, Baker Institute scientists had created an improved attenuated vaccine for the disease. Today, Dr. Colin Parrish of the Baker Institute continues to study the virus and its evolution in order to determine whether existing vaccines provide adequate protection from modern strains of CPV.

The original CPV2 has disappeared in the dog population and has been replaced by new antigenic variants, designated CPV2a and CPV2b, which became widespread during 1979 to 1980 and 1984, respectively.

Until DNA sequencing can identify the virus that has affected and killed dogs in Michigan, and researchers learn what vaccination protocol can best protect dogs, owners are encouraged to check their dogs’ vaccination status.

Until more is known about this illness, extraordinary caution might include avoiding walking dogs (and especially puppies) in public places in Michigan, and keeping your dogs away from other dogs. Most importantly, if you live in or have traveled through Michigan, or your dog has been exposed to dogs who live in or have been taken through Michigan recently, and your dog or puppy shows any signs of being ill with vomiting, diarrhea, lack of appetite, or lethargy, contact your veterinarian right away.

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A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”