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Nobody likes rounding the corner in the house and discovering a pile of poo. While it’s one thing to find the occasional “gift” from a puppy or newly adopted dog, we’re generally less thrilled to discover our adult dog has “left a load” in the living room. So why is your house-trained dog suddenly pooping in the house?
Why Do Adult Dogs Poop in The House?
There are many reasons why an adult, assumingly house-trained, dog might poop indoors:
Illness. Dietary indiscretions or parasites can cause even the best-housetrained dog to have an “accident” in the house. Illness-related fecal accidents often present as loose stool.
Incomplete house-training. Is your dog really house-trained? If dogs are given too much freedom too soon, and frequently have poop accidents in the house, they may not fully understand the expectation that all defecation – not just some defecation – should happen outdoors.
Digestive-schedule issues. Some dogs’ digestive systems process things differently. Some need more time to process between intake and output. Some dogs need more physical activity to get things moving.
Pooping as a stress response. A sudden change in routine, moving, houseguests, visiting animals, noises outside, and even re-arranging the furniture are all things that some dogs might find stressful. Some dogs might respond to this stressful situation by urine marking or pooping in the house. It’s not spite; it’s stress.
What You Can Do to Stop Your Dog From Pooping in the House
The first line of defense is to revisit housetraining basics. No matter the reason why your dog is pooping in the house, it’s important to limit her opportunity so the behavior doesn’t become well rehearsed. Like us, dogs get good at whatever they practice!
Next, increase your management and supervision. Keep your dog in your line of sight when home; attach her leash to your belt, if need be!
If she’s pooping in the same spot, restrict access to that area. When your dog is left home alone indoors, consider using a crate if your dog is crate trained and you’ll only be gone a few hours. You can also limit her access to a small area by using a gate to keep her in a kitchen or laundry room. With either set-up, the idea is that most dogs want to keep their personal space clean and may be less likely to foul the area.
Consider a schedule change. If your dog has breakfast and gets a short walk before you leave for work, but frequently poops in the house, or wakes you in the middle of the night needing to go out to relieve himself, try adjusting his feeding schedule. His system might just need a little longer to digest a meal. Or, if possible, try a longer walk. Another few minutes might be all she needs to help work it out.
If your dog routinely poops in the house following stressful situations, consider consulting a positive-reinforcement trainer who can help you create a plan to manage the situation while you work to help change how your dog feels (“counter-condition”) about the presently stressful situations.
And finally, continue to be diligent in these efforts until you’ve had three months without an accident. Yes, we know that’s a long time, but shorter benchmarks are often just luck.
A single reported case of transmission of monkeypox from a human to a dog has prompted the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) to publish guidelines for pet owners to prevent more such cases.
A 4-year-old male Italian Greyhound who sleeps in the same bed as his owners developed the mucocutaneous lesions that are emblematic of the viral infection 12 days after his owners were diagnosed with monkeypox. The transmission was confirmed by comparing monkeypox virus DNA sequences from samples taken from the dog and one of his owners; there was a 100% match between the viral strains, indicating that the dog had indeed contracted the virus from his infected owner.
Experts have known that monkeypox can infect mammals (including monkeys, anteaters, hedgehogs, prairie dogs, squirrels, and shrews), but until now, there have been no confirmed cases in dogs. While it’s not yet confirmed whether an infected dog could infect other dogs or humans, there is ample reason to believe than the virus could, in fact, pass to other dogs or humans in close contact with an infected dog. The virus is known to spread through contact with the secretions from skin rashes, scabs, and blisters, as well as respiratory secretions from an infected person.
For these reasons, the CDC has released the following recommendations to pet owners regarding monkeypox:
Infected humans should avoid close contact with other humans and animals. For dogs, this means the infected person should not pet, hold, carry, cuddle, or kiss the dog, or share towels, sleeping areas (including sofas and chairs), food, or food utensils with the dog.
Ideally, if the human with monkeypox did not have close contact with pets after symptom onset, the dog would be sent to be cared for by friends or family members who live in a separate home until the person with monkeypox fully recovers. Then, the home should be disinfected before the dog is brought back (the CDC offers disinfection instructions here).
However, if the person with monkeypox has already had close contact with their dog after the onset of symptoms, the dog should be kept at home and away from other animals and humans for 21 days. It’s best if a non-infected person can care for the dog in the home to prevent inadvertent contact. But if the infected person must care for the dog who has already been exposed, the following steps should be taken in an effort to reduce the chance that the dog becomes infected:
Wash your hands, or use an alcohol-based hand rub, before and after caring for your dog.
Do not wipe or bathe your pet with chemical disinfectants, alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, or other products such as hand sanitizer, counter-cleaning wipes, or other industrial or surface cleaners.
Cover any skin rash to the best extent possible (by wearing long-sleeved shirts and long pants), and wearing gloves and a well-fitting mask or respirator while providing care for your dog.
Avoid close contact with your pet.
Ensure your pet cannot inadvertently come into contact with any contaminated articles in the home such as clothing, sheets, blankets, towels, and furniture used by the person with monkeypox.
Do not let animals come into contact with rashes, bandages, and body fluids.
Ensure food, toys, bedding, or other items that you provide for your animal during its isolation do not come in direct contact with skin or uncovered rash.
Observe your dog carefully for signs of monkeypox infection, including:
Lethargy
Lack of appetite
Coughing
Nasal secretions or crust
Bloating
Fever, and/or
Pimple- or blister-like skin rash (this may initially appear as a simple pimple or single blister before advancing to a rash)
If there is a person with a confirmed or suspected monkeypox infection in your home, and you observe any of the above-listed signs in your dog, contact your veterinarian immediately. If a diagnosis of monkeypox is suspected, your veterinarian should then contact the state public health veterinarian. Also, until and if a monkeypox infection is confirmed in your dog, he should be kept from other animals and his waste should be disposed in a dedicated, fully lined trash can or flushed down a toilet. Feces should not be left or disposed of outdoors, as monkeypox virus infections in wildlife may occur.
Dogs naturally like to jump up. It’s one of the ways they explore the world around them, including the humans they meet.
Unfortunately for our dogs, most people don’t like dogs to jump on them. A rambunctious adolescent Labrador or adult St. Bernard can get in a heap of trouble if they pounce on people, despite their friendly intentions. Even a tiny dog can trip an unstable senior or toddler, or put muddy paw prints on someone’s business suit.
The good news is, we can easily solve this behavioral clash – as long as we first identify the dog’s motivation for jumping up (because the solution will vary depending on the purpose of his paw assault!).
Why Do Dogs Jump?
Greeting and seeking attention from humans are the most common reasons that dogs jump up on us.
Pups learn at an early age that jumping up is the best way to get humans to pay attention to them. After all, they are tiny and way down on the floor, and it’s easy for us to overlook them unless they put their paws on our legs with a “Hi! Hey! I’m down here!” message. Because they’re little and adorable, we bend down and pet them, or at least make eye contact and talk to them. Boom! We just reinforced jumping up.
Because behaviors that are reinforced increase, by the time your jumping pup reaches adolescence, it’s likely that jumping up will have become a well-established behavior.
Dogs also commonly jump up on humans as an information-seeking behavior – frequently in dogs who are not completely comfortable or familiar with humans and who want to find out more about them. “Who are you and what are you going to do to me?”
Often misinterpreted as a warm greeting or attention-seeking, this can get a dog in real trouble when the well-intentioned but misguided human tries to pet the information-seeking dog and elicits a defensive bite instead of happy reciprocal affection.
Finally, a fearful dog may jump on a known and trusted human to seek comfort. In this case, she’s saying, “Help me, I’m scared!” – just as you might seek comfort in the arms of a loved one when you are frightened.
What Not To Do When Your Dog Jumps Up on Someone
It used to be so simple. “Turn your back on the dog and step away” was the standard old-fashioned advice for dealing with a dog who jumps. That’s still a reasonable option for some dogs – with a lot of caveats.
It’s not a good choice for a dog who jumps on you for comfort or information. If a dog jumps up in an effort to gain information about you, you’d be better off standing still; turning away could elicit a bite.
If a dog jumps up in search of comfort, it’s kinder to provide that comfort than to turn away. Meet her needs rather than ignoring her!
If a dog jumps up in an excited, happy greeting or to seek attention, turning your back might work – but she might just keep jumping up on your back, which is still reinforcing because she gets to touch you.
The modern, behavior-science-based approach to jumping up is to figure out how to meet your dog’s needs so she doesn’t have to jump up, and generously reinforce incompatible behaviors as appropriate. Let’s look at how to handle these various jumping up behaviors.
While the following methods work for adult dogs, it’s easier to prevent a behavior from becoming established than it is to modify it after it’s been well-reinforced, so the sooner you start, the better.
What to Do When Your Dog Jumps to Greet
When your new pup comes home, make sure you (and everyone who regularly interacts with her) meet her attention needs so she doesn’t have to jump up to get you to notice her. Pay attention to her by greeting her before she jumps, reinforcing her for four paws on the floor. Teach her that if she sits, people will pay attention to her, and make sure you provide plenty of enrichment opportunities so she isn’t constantly seeking attention for lack of anything better to do.
“Find It” and “Search” are good incompatible behaviors that are easy to teach and simple to use. She can’t do them and jump up at the same time. “Find It” means you’ve dropped treats at your feet. Instead of jumping on you, your dog directs her energy toward the ground, sniffing for treats. For “Search,” toss treats six to eight feet away, again giving your dog something fun to do that’s incompatible with jumping up. You can instruct visitors to do these behaviors as well.
Convince your dog that sitting is a better way to get your attention by providing lots of reinforcement when she sits. You can use a tether to practice; tether her to something solid (such as a sofa leg or piano leg) and approach. If she stays sitting, approach, click and treat (or pet her, or do other reinforcing interactions). If she jumps, step back and wait for her to sit. Then approach.
When you are out and about, restrain her with your leash if someone wants to approach and pet her. Tell them they can pet her if she sits (assuming she enjoys being petted by strangers) and if she jumps up they need to back up. Hold the leash securely so she can’t pull forward and jump on them.
For a fun interactive incompatible behavior, teach your dog that if she sits when visitors come to the door they will throw a toy for her. Then have a basket of toys sitting outside the door with instructions to your visitors to pick up several of them and toss one when your dog sits to greet them. When she comes back and sits, toss the next toy and then the next. You can give your guest a handful of treats while your dog is chasing the toy, and when the toys are all tossed, they can play Find It.
What to Do When Your Dog Jumps for Information
This one’s simpler. If you know your dog is cautious with new people, simply don’t let her approach them (or them approach her), even when they say, “It’s okay, dogs love me!” It’s not okay for your dog, and you must protect her from risky interactions.
A truly dog-knowledgeable person will ignore her if she’s information-seeking and refrain from interacting with her, even if she jumps, until affiliative body language (soft body, soft eyes) conveys that she is relaxed and comfortable with that person. Still, you’re better off preventing interaction in the first place.
What to Do When Your Dog Jumps for Comfort
It’s absolutely fine to comfort your dog when she’s frightened. Don’t worry about “reinforcing” her fear – you cannot reinforce emotion. You can, however, help her survive her fear experience by assuring her that you’ll protect her.
When your dog behaves as if something is scaring her, before she jumps up to seek comfort, do whatever works to comfort her: get down to her level and calmly hold her, reassure her, pet her, move her away from the scary thing, play with her, feed treats, ask for her favorite behaviors, or sit and let her climb in your lap. Depending on how scared she is, she may not be able to take treats, play, or perform behaviors. In that case just hold and comfort her. Be sure you stay calm! Acting worried may stress her more.
Individualize Your Response When Your Dog Jumps
Dog behavior is far more complex than once thought, and modern trainers realize there’s no one-size-fits-all “turn your back” answer for jumping up. It’s more helpful to consider all the parameters – the dog’s motivation for the behavior, what is or is not reinforcing for the individual dog, and how to reinforce incompatible behaviors – and determine how best to work with your own canine companion to teach her how to interact politely with humans.
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Urinary tract infections (UTIs) are a common phenomenon in dogs. In the case of UTIs, “infection” means that bacteria have gained access to the urinary tract, are multiplying in there, and causing painful symptoms for the dog.
The dog’s urinary tract starts with the kidneys, where urine is produced. The urine then travels down tubes (ureters) into the bladder and exits the body through the urethra.
When someone uses the phrase “UTI,” they could mean infection in any one of these parts of the urinary tract. Usually, “UTI” is meant to indicate a bladder infection (bacterial cystitis, also called a called a “lower UTI”), as this is the most common place for infection to occur.
When the kidneys get infected (“upper UTI”) the dog is typically much sicker and has totally different symptoms. Our focus here is specifically on lower UTIs or bacterial cystitis.
UTIs are fairly common, especially in female dogs, who suffer far more than male dogs due to simple anatomy: The opening for urine to exit the body is a lot larger in females than males, which means it’s a lot easier for bacteria to gain entrance to the urinary tract.
This anatomical difference may seem like a curse for the girls, but it’s also a blessing, as it’s extremely rare for female dogs to suffer life-threatening urinary blockages due to the wider opening. Urinary blockage caused by bladder stones is far more common in male dogs. So, we take the good with the bad for our girls.
How to Tell If Your Dog Has a UTI
Dog UTI symptoms are similar in female and male dogs. UTI symptoms include:
Frequent need to urinate (pollakiuria)
Urinating only small amounts at a time
Discomfort while urinating (dysuria)
Straining to urinate (stranguria)
Bloody urine (hematuria)
Excessive water consumption (polydipsia)
Inappropriate urination (i.e., urinating in the house, lapse in house training)
Leaking urine (urinary incontinence)
Excessive or compulsive licking of the external genital area.
If the infection stays localized to the bladder and is appropriately treated in a timely fashion, dogs with bladder infections typically don’t get sick with advanced symptoms like loss of appetite, lethargy, or vomiting. They are usually just uncomfortable with any or all of the above dog UTI symptoms.
How is a UTI Diagnosed in Dogs?
A urinalysis is essential for diagnosing a UTI. Bring a fresh urine specimen with you to your veterinary appointment. Be sure whatever container you use is clean and dry. The fresher the sample, the better the information for your veterinarian. Catching one right outside the hospital before you go in would be best. If you catch one at home before your appointment, be sure to refrigerate it.
If your dog has been diagnosed with a UTI previously and you suspect another, your veterinarian may want to retrieve a sterile sample directly from your dog’s bladder. Be sure to ask if you should bring a urine specimen, or just bring your dog with a full bladder.
A thorough physical exam is important for any dog presenting with signs of a UTI. Your veterinarian will carefully examine your dog, checking for any evidence of underlying issues and concurrent disease. If the physical exam is good and the urinalysis shows evidence of infection, most veterinarians are comfortable treating for a UTI based on these findings alone.
It’s important to understand that the urinalysis and physical exam allow your veterinarian to make a presumptive diagnosis only. The only way to definitely diagnose a bacterial infection of the urinary tract is with a urine culture. When urine is cultured in a laboratory, culture medium is used to grow any bacteria present in the sample. The organism can then be identified and tested in order to discover which antibiotic will be most effective for treating it.
How to Handle Recurrent UTIs in Dogs
The natural anatomy of female dogs makes them more prone to UTIs. Dogs who respond well to treatment for their first UTI usually don’t need any further exploration. But if any dog, male or female, develops a second, third, or more UTIs, it’s time to start looking for underlying causes.
It’s equally important to differentiate whether repeat sufferers are having relapses from a persistent, unresolved infection or true reinfection. Reculturing urine at the end of antibiotic treatment is the only way to definitively ascertain that a UTI has fully resolved.
In female dogs, one of the biggest causes of recurrent UTI involves the condition of her external genitalia or vulva. A normal healthy vulva is V-shaped, with edges that are fairly flush with the surrounding skin.
Many female dogs have recessed vulvas, sometimes called juvenile vulva, where the vulva is tucked in behind folds of surrounding skin. This anatomy provides a perfect environment for bacteria to go wild, right near the opening to the urinary tract.
Some females have a hooded vulva – a big skin fold forming a roof over the vulva – with the same result. Obese females are prone to developing deep skin folds and recesses around the vulva, even if they started life with normal vulvar anatomy. The treatment for aberrant vulvar conformation resulting in recurrent UTIs is a surgical correction called a vulvoplasty.
Other causes of recurrent UTIs in dogs include:
Bladder stones
Bladder polyps or tumors
Urinary crystals
Antibiotic resistant infection
Stopping antibiotic treatment too soon
Unresolved, persistent, original infection
Immune-compromised patient
Concurrent metabolic disease predisposing to UTI (e.g., diabetes, Cushing’s Syndrome)
If your dog suffers from recurrent UTIs, further testing will likely be recommended including but not limited to:
Full bloodwork
Repeat urine cultures
Abdominal x-ray
Abdominal ultrasound
Cystoscopy (endoscopic visualization of the bladder)
Bladder biopsy
If an underlying cause is diagnosed and corrected, your dog should stop developing recurrent UTIs.
The Only Dog UTI Treatment
This is pretty simple: UTIs require treatment with antibiotics. Choosing the best antibiotic and treating the infection long enough are critical to successfully returning the dog to an infection-free state.
“How long” is “long enough” is for your veterinarian to decide. There is ongoing research to see exactly how many days of antibiotic treatment is really necessary. Most veterinary practitioners recommend 14 days of antibiotic therapy, with a follow-up urinalysis and/or culture at the end.
At Home Treatment for UTIs in Dogs
Because it’s a bacterial infection requiring treatment with antibiotics, you may not be successful clearing an active infection on your own. There are, however, supportive things you can do at home to help your infected dog, and plenty of preventive measures you can take to avoid or lessen the potential for a UTI in your dog. Here are my suggestions:
Make sure fresh water is always available. If you feed dry kibble, consider adding water and/or some canned food to your dog’s diet. Fluid ingestion helps keep things moving through the urinary tract, flushing out any bacteria that’s trying to get a foothold and helping maintain a healthy environment in the bladder.
Afford your dog the opportunity to empty his or her bladder as frequently as possible. When urine sits in the bladder for extended periods of time (“urine stasis”), it gives bacteria more opportunity to take hold. An extra potty break at midday would help!
If your female dog is overweight,get the weight off! This will help prevent a recessed vulva from serving up bacteria to the urinary tract.
Perform daily hygienic cleansing of your female dog’s perivulvar area. Wet baby wipes work well. Be sure to get into any deep folds or crevices surrounding the vulva.
If your older, unneutered male dog has had a UTI, get him neutered! This will help with prostatic disease, which is likely the underlying cause.
If your female dog suffers from spay incontinence, seek treatment for this. Incontinent dogs have weak sphincters, which opens the door wider for bacterial invasion.
If your dog has been identified as one who forms urinary crystals, follow your veterinarian’s advice regarding the best preventative diet.
Consider putting your dog on a probiotic. Probiotics strengthen the dog’s immune system, which helps fight off UTIs and may even make the vaginal and preputial bacterial population healthier.
Cranberry extract may help prevent some UTIs. It works not by acidifying the urine as most people think, but by inhibiting certain bacteria’s ability to stick to the bladder wall. Crananidin (made by Nutramax) is a popular veterinary product for this purpose.
Last month, I mentioned that I recently helped an 84-year-old friend with the 10-month-old Border Collie whom she had recently adopted from our local shelter. I wanted to take the opportunity to say a couple of things about this.
First: I wish more people would take their time when they are looking for a dog or puppy to choose. Far too many people adopt the wrong dog when they are in a hurry to adopt. And often, as with my friend, their hearts are in the right place! They adopt from a shelter because they want to save a life and they know the shelter is full; they feel pressured to not leave without a dog. But as I try to convince my dog-seeking friends, this decision is going to affect the next 10 to 15 or more years of your life! Take your time and get a dog who checks all your boxes, who is the right age and size, and who has the right coat and temperament for your home and family. Don’t rush! There are more than enough dogs to go around, and you’ll enjoy one who fits into your home easily more than one who is a struggle to manage.
But here’s the second thing I want to say: When people do adopt the “wrong” dog, boy, do I love it when they dig in and say, “Maybe we made a bad decision, but we’re going to make it work.” My 84-year-old friend and her husband have a mandarin orange farm, and they were hoping their new dog could run loose with the husband as he works on the farm during the day. When Grace proved to be a poor candidate for this – she wanted to chase every rabbit that set foot in the orchards and every car that drove down the country road – the couple thought nothing of building a large fenced run to contain Grace for a few hours during the day. The rest of the time, Grace is either on a leash or she stays in the house.
Better yet, after we worked with Grace together one time my friend took off the choke chain another trainer had recommended, and bought a harness, a waist-belt treat pouch, and a variety of treats. Thus equipped, and after just two private lessons, she now walks Grace several times a day in her rural neighborhood and reports that they are now tightly bonded; Grace listens to her and she no longer feels at risk of being pulled off her feet by the exuberant young dog.
I can’t say I was confident the adoption would work out. But after hearing that my friend had arranged for her daughter to take Grace – along with a trust fund to support the dog – should my friend pass away before Grace does, my heart swelled. It’s just so lovely (and unexpected) when the “wrong” dog falls into the right hands.
This is the kind of play that can transform in an instant from fun to funeral. If one dog grabs the other’s collar and then playfully rolls over on the ground, the collar can twist in his mouth, tightening and trapping his jaw. This starts choking the other dog. Both dogs will start to panic and struggle. Unless someone can cut the collar off quickly, one or both dogs can end up badly injured or even dead. This is why I don’t let dogs play with collars or harnesses on.
There is a trend on TikTok right now where various experts are sharing “things they would never do” after some years of experience in a certain field. The “things” are all activities that would expose a person to needless risks. I’m a dog writer, not a TikTok creator, but here’s my contribution to the genre! Based on my personal experience (and access to the experience of our many contributors and readers, shared with me over the past 25 years of editing WDJ), here are the top five things I would never do with my dogs to compromise their safety and wellbeing – from choices in dog chews to behavior training classes.
Leave my dogs home alone when there is a potentially disastrous condition nearby.
It took only one conversation with an owner whose dogs were home alone and killed in a fire to teach me this important lesson; the pain in her eyes haunts me to this day.
When wildfires erupt, authorities are quick to call for mandatory evacuations and they close roads to keep people from going home to rescue their livestock or pets. While this seems barbaric to the owner frantic to get home to save their pets, the public safety officers’ mandate is to save human lives above all else. They will allow registered animal emergency evacuation teams into closed areas if they deem the situation safe enough, but this is rarely the case in the first day of any kind of disaster.
Obviously, if you’re already at work when a fire breaks out in your area – or a levee breaks and floodwaters are engulfing your neighborhood – there is not much you can do. Find out who you can contact to report the need for your animals to be rescued; there is almost always an agency that is assigned to this important task.
But if there is a fire burning within 30 miles of your home, a tornado warning in your area, or it’s hurricane season and your local river is rising, take your pets with you if you leave the house. I’ve taken my dogs to a friend’s house when I had to go to the store with a fire burning 10 miles away. Leaving them home is not a chance I will take.
Sign up for a dog training class without researching the dog trainer and observing classes first.
Monitoring training-advice Facebook groups, I’ve read many posts from people who have paid for a six-week class, only to wonder if they should quit after the first session because the instructor insists that all the participants use choke chains and/or use leash yanks. Every time I hear this, I want to ask, “How was this a surprise? Why did you not observe a class first?”
Don’t leave your dogs (or other pets) home if there is an emergency evacuation, even if the situation seems well in hand and packing up all your pets is a huge hassle. Consider it a safety drill! Conditions can change rapidly and public safety officers might not allow you to return if the situation goes south.
I read dog trainers’ websites carefully, looking for evidence of a positive-training education and credentials. If their website gives little detail beyond years of experience and some catch-phrases (including “positive dog training”), I send an email and ask what programs they have graduated from and which training conferences or seminars they most recently attended. I want to see passion for and commitment to continuing education, because modern training is advancing every year.
I recommend observing any dog trainer you’re considering taking a class with. I’d watch the instructor teach several classes of beginning-level students, because watching an advanced class march around flawlessly will not tell you whether force and fear were used to get the dogs to that level. I’d be looking for smiles on the faces of the dog handlers and loose, relaxed body language from the dogs and puppies. If the humans look grim and the dogs look shut down, I wouldn’t sign up for even a single session, much less a six-week class. And if the dogs show up in class wearing choke chains, pinch collars, or shock collars, I know it’s not the style of training I want to pursue with my dog.
Let dogs play with other dogs while wearing collars or harnesses.
I had read warnings from people who claimed that it was unsafe to allow dogs to wear collars while playing, but until I saw for myself what could happen, I thought the warnings were overblown and unnecessarily dramatic.
I was wrong.
When wrestling or playing “bitey face” games, it’s very easy for a dog to get his or her jaw stuck in the gear worn by their playmate. Don’t think because you haven’t seen it, it won’t happen to your dog; all it takes is a single playmate who likes to grab other dogs by the collar. And when this happens, both dogs panic and freak out. It’s incredibly difficult in the resulting melee to figure out how to free both dogs, especially as they spin, roll, and scream in pain and panic.
Since we first ran an article about this potential hazard (“Don’t Wait: Prevent Collar Accidents,” December 2020), dozens of readers have shared stories about dogs who have been maimed, traumatized, and even killed by their own collars. I guarantee you that my warning is not overblown. Become familiar with dog collar safety and let your dogs “play naked.”
Give my dogs *most* rawhide chews.
I would not give my dogs any of the following dog chews: dried pigs ears, dried bones (the kind sold in pet supply stores), or most rawhide or so-called “collagen” products (same thing) sold in pet supply stores.
I am very selective when it comes to dog chew items. Dead animal parts of unknown age and unknown country-of-origin, processed with dog-knows-what chemicals? No thank you.
There are two issues here: the potential for the items to be contaminated, with either Salmonella and other food-borne pathogens or potentially toxic chemicals used in the item’s processing; and the physical danger to dogs from lacerations to the throat or intestines or impactions in the dog’s stomach or intestines.
Nothing that holds up to assertive chewing for long should be consumed in quantity. And if it doesn’t hold up to assertive chewing, it will be consumed in quantity!
I do supply my foster puppies and adolescent dogs with certain chew items (more about that in a second) for limited periods of time when I want them to entertain themselves quietly for a bit. I also will give my adult dogs a certain chew item once in a while as a treat. But daily chewing is just not necessary – and it’s a risk! Yes, it’s an enjoyable natural behavior for dogs – and the activity is fraught with dangers. There isn’t anything under the sun that dogs chew on that’s safe for all dogs; veterinarians have surgically removed hunks of anything you can name from the perforated or impacted bowels of countless dogs.
What chew items do I feel good about, under strict supervision and for limited periods of time? Absolutely nothing that dogs can consume completely or to a swallowable size in under an hour.
I will procure fresh, gigantic, raw, meaty bones for my dogs once in a while – and I take them away the moment they are small enough for my dogs to get between their molars.
For the teething puppy or adolescent who needs to learn to be content in short-term confinement, I’ll buy dried “bully sticks” (a.k.a. “pizzles” or dried cattle penises) – but only the ones that are about three feet long, and I throw them away when they get to about six or seven inches (swallowable size).
For a number of years there was a single company that manufactured rawhide chew products that I felt were safe: sourced fresh from a slaughter plant in the United States (rather than a tannery in a country that lacks standards or inspections that would protect dogs) and made into giant rolls of extraordinary thickness. The rolls were so thick that it took even my very aggressive chewer an hour to chew an inch or so of these rolls (and then I’d take it away, to save for another day). That company fell victim to COVID-era shutdowns, alas. My search goes on for a company that makes a similar dog chew, but I haven’t found it yet.
Agree to having my dog vaccinated for anything that I haven’t researched and planned for in advance.
You can’t properly research whether your dog needs a particular vaccination while at the veterinarian’s office. And while it would be lovely to be able to trust any veterinarian’s opinion that your dog would benefit from whatever vaccination they feel is missing from your dog’s chart, the fact is, sometimes veterinary professionals are just checking the boxes, especially at well-pet visits.
Don’t get me wrong; I’m not an anti-vaxxer. I’m a strong proponent of making certain my dogs have the vaccines that will protect them from hazards they are likely to encounter. But neither do I want to overvaccinate. Nor do I want to vaccinate my extremely senior dog for anything; I don’t believe in messing with dogs’ immune systems late in life!
Periodically, I pay for vaccine titer tests to determine whether my dogs possess levels of antibodies for distemper and parvovirus that will provide protection against those diseases. I won’t permit them to be vaccinated for those diseases again until they are needed.
Also, I pay attention to what they might be considered “due” for! I just don’t want to be blind-sided or strong-armed over something with potentially long-term consequences for my dog’s health.
If a vet has information about something new or terrific that may benefit my dog, I say, “Great! Let me read up on that. If it seems like the safety profile is good and it’s likely to offer protection from something my dog is likely to encounter, I’ll make another appointment to come back and get that.” And I will!
We asked a number of WDJ contributors what they would NEVER do with their dogs:
I would never deliberately scare my dog by disguising or altering my appearance. My dog Clara was a feral puppy, and I was the only person in the world she trusted for a very long time. Once, I unthinkingly wore something that was unusual enough that she didn’t recognize me – and she was petrified. I was her anchor in the human world, and I was gone, with a stranger in my place. But I wouldn’t do it to a gregarious dog either. We can’t know ahead of time how much a switch like that might scare any individual dog, and fear isn’t funny. – Eileen Anderson
Eileen blogs at eileenanddogs.com and is the author of Remember Me? Loving and Caring for a Dog with Canine Cognitive Dysfunction and co-author of Puppy Socialization: What It Is and How to Do It.
I would never attach my dog to a retractable leash. That was true for Samantha and Chloe, my calm Labradors of yesteryear, and it’s especially true about my current Lab Blue Sapphire, who is twice as athletic and loves to chase anything that moves. I might as well have a raccoon or maybe a coyote on the leash! – CJ Puotinen
CJ is a long-time WDJ contributor and author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and many other books.
I would never turn my dog loose in a dog park without first observing the behavior, actions, and interactions of the dogs and the humans inside the park. Obviously, dogs who don’t play well with others should not be taken to dog parks. The problem is, sometimes these dogs belong to humans who don’t understand this or just don’t care. Resource-guarding can turn ugly in a hurry if another dog doesn’t understand or respect it. Dogs with over-the-top prey drive are not fun for other dogs. And some dogs are just plain too rough. I saw a beautiful young Lab whose hind leg had been grabbed by another dog chasing him. The result? A severed Achilles’ tendon.
Observe the humans, too. People do dumb things! I saw a human thoughtlessly throw a ball such that two competing dogs went for it from opposite directions and collided face first. The result was broken teeth, lots of blood, and expensive veterinary bills. I saw a human throwing a flying disc for their own dog dangerously close to large rocks. Someone else’s dog went for the disc and crashed into a giant rock. That dog left the park on three legs.
If you see anything that looks remotely dangerous, don’t go in. And be alert if a new dog and human enter the park. Any newcomer can change the dynamic of the pack. Collect your dog and observe the new dynamic before deciding whether to stay. – Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
Dr. Fatcheric writes articles about veterinary medicine for WDJ and is a passionate and successful competitor with her dogs in agility.
I’d never make my dog uncomfortable for a laugh. This isn’t a new impulse for humans – I remember watching college guys give beer to their dog and laugh at the stumbling result – but social media has put this impulse on steroids. I cringe whenever I see a dog-themed TikTok start to trend, because all sorts of folks will jump onto the bandwagon, like “Scare your dog to see what they do.”
It only takes a quick scroll for anybody with any knowledge of dog body language to feel devastated by these “funny” videos. The dogs are totally freaked out. The human world they’ve landed in is confusing enough for dogs. It’s heartbreaking to watch the person the dog trusts most deliberately set them up to feel an intense, uncomfortable emotion like fear. – Kathy Callahan
Kathy is a dog trainer and author of 101 Rescue Puppies: One Family’s Story of Fostering Dogs, Love, and Trust.
Most of the things I would never do with my dog involve the use of force, pain, or fear. For example, I would never use a shock collar. There is no reason to shock your dog – not even the euphemistic low-level “stim” that shock-collar trainers try to convince you is not aversive. Studies confirm the position that force-free trainers have long held: Coercive methods are likely to lead to significant behavioral issues, especially aggression.
Also, I would never try to grab something from my dog’s mouth. As I tell my clients all the time – even if it’s rat poison, or your grandmother’s diamond bracelet – you’re likely to get the “something” back faster and with much less harm if you calmly ask the dog to trade rather than trying to grab the item. Offer a high-value treat in exchange! This is especially true if you have taught your dog to trade on cue in advance. – Pat Miller
Pat is a trainer, WDJ’s Training Editor, and author of many books about force-free dog training. Information about her training center and academy can be viewed at PeaceablePaws.com.
Just like the humans they live with, dogs often develop arthritis as they age. The most common form is osteoarthritis, also called degenerative joint disease, in which cushioning cartilage within the joints becomes brittle and breaks down, resulting in painful inflammation that interferes with every canine activity.
How Long Can a Dog Live With Arthritis?
Arthritis isn’t fatal, so your dog won’t die of it. In fact, dogs with arthritis can live well into their teens, but they may lead restricted and pain-filled lives. Our challenge as caregivers is to help our best friends stay active for as long as possible. Become familiar with the risk factors and symptoms of arthritis so that you can anticipate, recognize, document, and treat the signs of arthritis before they incapacitate your dog.
Risk factors for osteoarthritis include the dog’s size (larger breeds and overweight dogs are more likely to develop joint pain), age (the risk increases over time), genetics (some breeds are associated with joint abnormalities such as hip dysplasia that lead to arthritis in Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherd Dogs), stress and trauma injuries, an inflammatory diet, diabetes, and diseases transmitted by tick bites.
Symptoms of arthritis in dogs vary from one patient to the next but as the illness progresses, most dogs experience:
intermittent lameness
“hopping” or three-legged gait
stiffness after rest or after vigorous exercise
abnormal stance when walking
reluctance to rise or move
depression or lack of interest
joints that hurt when touched or swollen joints that are tender and warm to the touch
A thorough veterinary examination is needed to rule out physical injuries or non-arthritic conditions that can cause pain, make a diagnosis, and suggest treatment options. Those are likely to include prescription pain-relieving, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) such as carprofen, firocoxib, meloxicam, grapiprant, or etodolac. These are the most effective treatments for arthritis, hands-down.
For severe, chronic arthritis, more and more vets are prescribing amantadine, an N-Methyl-D-aspartate receptor antagonist that works in combination with other drugs to treat chronic pain (see “Amantadine: Now for Relief of Chronic Pain,” WDJ August 2022).
In addition, your veterinarian may recommend the following for dog arthritis relief:
nutritional supplements
hydrotherapy (swimming or the use of an underwater treadmill)
chiropractic adjustments
acupuncture
regular low-impact exercise
laser treatments
How to Help a Dog With Arthritis at Home
There are quite a few things you can do at home to help your dog with their arthritis symptoms.
Help your dog lose weight. This sounds simple, but it is one of the most powerful things you can do to help her stay active because being overweight stresses the joints. Foods with high protein and moderate fat levels are better for overweight dogs than typical high-carbohydrate, low-protein weight-loss diets.
Keep your dog hydrated. Dehydration complicates joint problems, so it’s important to provide fresh water in clean bowls at all times. To encourage your dog to drink more water, add small amounts of bone broth or other flavorings.
Provide resting areas with extra padding. Dogs sleep more than people, an estimated 12 to 18 hours a day, and their beds make a difference. Some orthopedic mattresses consist of a memory foam base and a layer of gel memory foam, while others use an egg-crate-shaped orthopedic foam, support foam, or layers of shredded memory foam. Egg-crate memory foam helps keep sleeping dogs from overheating by increasing air circulation.
To be sure your dog’s orthopedic mattress will be a good fit, check the manufacturer’s measurement guidelines and buy the right size. In general, sturdy lightweight materials are easy to clean. For dogs with reduced mobility and possible in-house accidents, beds with waterproof liners and removable, machine washable covers simplify cleanup.
Provide traction. Slick floors, whether polished wood or shiny vinyl, pose health risks to dogs with arthritis. Use carpet or sisal grass runners in hallways or wherever your dog needs traction. Surround his food and water bowls with a rubber-backed rug so he can lower his head to eat or drink without his hind legs slipping out from under him.
Raise the bowl. If your dog has started hesitating at the food bowl or loses his balance as he eats, try a raised feeder. We’re not fans of raised bowls for all dogs, as they have been shown to increase the incidence of bloat, but a raised platform for feeding can help a very arthritic dog reach his food more comfortably.
Keep him moving! Make light but regular exercise part of your dog’s everyday routine. The less an arthritic dog moves, the more muscle mass is lost, and the less stable the joints become. Exercise rebuilds and maintains muscle strength, helps with weight reduction, and improves circulation to affected joints. The goal is to provide the benefits of exercise without overdoing it, as too much exercise can damage the joints, causing pain or injury. The key words here are “slow and steady.” Ask your veterinarian about physical activities that are appropriate for your dog.
Use a harness. Attaching a leash to your dog’s collar can stress the neck muscles and vertebrae. Instead, use a harness and reduce the risk of neck injury by attaching the leash to your dog’s chest or back.
Massage that dog! Arthritis is associated with a lack of lymph circulation, and an effective way to help improve your dog’s condition is with massage. See “10 ways to improve your dog’s lymph circulation,” WDJ January 2022.
Help him up. For dogs with advanced arthritis, climbing stairs or standing up after lying down can be painful. Dog-lift slings or harnesses remove pressure from painful joints by allowing handlers to physically lift the dog’s hindquarters. Ramps and steps help dogs jump into cars or onto the bed or sofa.
Keep him warm. Because cold temperatures can worsen arthritis pain, a sweater, jacket, or heated dog bed can help aching joints feel better in cold weather.
Helpful Supplements to Help a Dog With Arthritis
There are a number of supplements that you can give your dog in addition to the prescription pain-relieving and anti-inflammatory drugs that your veterinarian prescribes.
The most widely recommended supplements for dogs with arthritis are glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Also known as mucopolysaccharides, these nutraceutical supplements include glucosamine sulfate, glucosamine HCl, and chondroitin sulfate. Sometimes the unprocessed sources of GAG supplements, such as beef cartilage and green-lipped mussels, are used.
“GAGs are important because they actually protect the joint rather than just reduce symptoms by helping rebuild cartilage and restore synovial (joint) fluid,” explains canine health researcher Mary Straus at dogaware.com. “GAGs may also have some preventive effect on arthritis, though this is speculative.”
GAG supplements may be most effective given between meals, though they can be fed with food if needed. “Always start with high doses,” says Straus, “so you will be able to tell whether your dog responds. If you see improvement, reduce the dosage to see if the improvement can be maintained at a lower dose. If you don’t see any improvement within three to four weeks, try another supplement.”
S-adenosylmethione (SAMe, pronounced “SAM-ee”) is a pain-relieving compound found naturally in the body that helps regulate hormones and maintain cell membranes. Products containing 200 mg SAM-e are appropriate for most dogs weighing more than 15 pounds.
Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is a naturally occurring sulfur produced by ocean planktons and which is also found in cow’s milk, meat, sea vegetables, fruits, nuts, and vegetables. Sulfur deficiencies result in canine skin and coat problems, poor gastrointestinal and immune responses, joint pain, and arthritis. MSM supplements are sold as powders and capsules with a recommended dose for dogs of 50 to 100 mg per 10 pounds of body weight.
Salmon and other fish oils are rich sources of omega-3 fatty acids that reduce inflammation, in contrast to the omega-6 fatty acids in polyunsaturated vegetable oils. Fish oils contain eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), which block inflammatory cytokines and prostaglandins and are converted by the body into powerful anti-inflammatory chemicals called resolvins.
Omega-3 supplements with 300 mg combined EPA and DHA are widely prescribed for dogs. Give up to 1 gelcap per 10 pounds of body weight daily or, if using a product containing 500 mg EPA/DHA, give 1 gelcap per 15 to 20 pounds of body weight daily. Adjust liquid fish oil dosages to 300 mg combined EPA/DHA per 10 pounds of body weight. Higher doses can interfere with platelets and increase bleeding as well as increase rather than reduce inflammation.
“You must supplement with vitamin E whenever you give polyunsaturated fatty acids or PUFAs such as fish oils, as otherwise the body will be depleted of this vitamin,” says Straus. “Give a maximum of 7 international units (IUs) per pound of body weight for small dogs and 3 to 4 IUs per pound for large dogs. You can also give equivalent amounts less often. For example, a dog weighing 100 pounds might get as much as 400 IUs daily, while a 10-pound dog could be given a maximum of 200 IUs every three or four days.”
Pancreatin, bromelain, papain, amylase, protease, and other enzymes are familiar digestive aids that can be added to your dog’s dinner to improve the assimilation of nutrients. Clinical trials and anecdotal reports support the use of digestive enzymes with food, digestive enzymes without food between meals, and enteric-coated enzymes between meals for the treatment of arthritis.
Natural Remedies for Arthritis in Dogs
Can adding herbs to your stiff old dog’s dinner help him run, jump, and play like a puppy? Plants were the original pharmacy for humans and animals, and over thousands of years, cultures around the world developed remedies that remain in use today.
Search the medical literature or the websites of educational organizations like the American Botanical Council (herbalgram.com) and you’ll find many studies examining the effect of medicinal plants on humans with arthritis. But while canine arthritis is a popular veterinary research topic, only a few studies have examined plant-based therapies for dogs.
A 2004 Swiss examination of 29 dogs with degenerative osteoarthritis showed that a resin extract of Indian frankincense (Boswellia serrata) significantly reduced symptoms and increased mobility in more than 70% of the canine patients.
In 2014, a randomized placebo-controlled trial at the University of Montreal’s Faculty of Veterinary Medicine tested 32 dogs diagnosed with arthritis by x-ray and orthopedic exams. The researchers developed combinations of devil’s claw root (Harpagophytum procumbens), Indian frankincense, and other herbs, and after eight weeks the strength of dogs receiving treatment improved to the equivalent of a kilo of extra strength per paw. None of the treated dogs saw their health decline, unlike 25.8% of the dogs who were given a placebo. In addition, the placebo dogs became less physically active while the treated dogs became significantly more active.
Popular herbal products for dogs with arthritis include those mentioned above plus cannabis (Cannabis sativa), feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium), turmeric (Curcuma longa), yucca (yucca schidigera), and various Chinese herbal blends. Most pet supply stores and natural food markets sell a variety of herbal products for pets and so do online retailers.
To discover which products work best for your dog, follow label directions and complete one course of treatment (typically four to six weeks) before starting another candidate treatment. Take notes about your dog’s arthritis symptoms, such as her willingness or ability to get in the car or jump up on the couch, or how long it takes her to get on her feet after a nap, before beginning a new remedy and again at weekly intervals.
Another good way to track the effectiveness of a new product is to take a video of your dog walking, turning, or playing before and after a course of treatment.
Evaluating The Options to Treat Your Dog’s Arthritis
With dozens of alternatives to choose from, it’s hard to decide what to try for your dog. In 2009 the journal veterinary record assessed the efficacy of therapies used in the management of canine osteoarthrosis based on 68 papers published in peer-reviewed journals. The studies found strong evidence for the efficacy of NSAIDs in treating osteoarthritis. There was moderate support for the efficacy of glycosaminoglycan polysulphate (the injectable drug Adequan), elk antler velvet, and a food containing green-lipped mussel (Perna canaliculus, a natural source of GAGs).
In contrast, the studies found weak or no evidence to support the use of many other treatments. None of the reports offered final answers about what works and what doesn’t, and all of them concluded that additional research is needed.
This review accurately reflects the lack of well-designed research examining the effectiveness of treatments for arthritis in dogs. As new products and procedures are developed, we who love our arthritic dogs will continue to experiment with treatments and combinations of treatments that help our dogs stay active and pain-free through old age.
We often pay attention to our dog’s teeth, but the gums supporting those teeth are just as important. Unfortunately, they’re frequently ignored. As a result, gum disease is epidemic in dogs. Recent studies show that by the time they are two years old, almost 90% of America’s dogs have some type of periodontal disease.
This progressive illness is caused by mouth bacteria that harm gums and bones. Unfortunately, periodontal disease is invisible to the untrained eye until it causes significant damage, so prevention is an important strategy.
The causes of periodontal disease in dogs include:
poor dental hygiene
genetics
malocclusion (having a misaligned bite)
the shape of a dog’s mouth.
Brachycephalic breeds (those with shortened snouts) and small or toy breeds are at greater risk than other dogs, as are older and overweight dogs in general.
Veterinarians diagnose four stages of periodontal disease by checking for abnormal spaces between teeth and gums and by taking x-rays while the dog is under general anesthesia. Without dental x-rays, it’s impossible to accurately diagnose periodontal disease.
Stage 1, also known as gingivitis, consists of gum inflammation with no bone loss or tooth detachment. The symptoms include red or puffy gums, bad breath, and gums that bleed during chewing or brushing. This is the only periodontal stage that can be reversed; the others cause permanent damage.
Stage 2 produces up to a 25% loss of tooth attachments, mild bone loss, and mildly abnormal periodontal pocket depths, which are spaces around teeth below the gum line. In addition to Stage 1 symptoms, Stage 2 patients have receding gums.
Stage 3 shows a loss of 25 to 50% of the tooth’s support. In addition to the preceding symptoms, this stage results in loose teeth. Advanced dental procedures and daily home care are needed to save affected teeth, which are otherwise pulled at this stage.
Stage 4 is the final and most serious stage of periodontal disease, with X-rays and periodontal probing showing more than 50% loss of tooth attachments. Stage 4 symptoms include tooth root exposure, missing and loose teeth, and pus oozing from around the teeth. The treatment for this phase is tooth extraction, and the prognosis for dogs in this condition is poor.
As periodontal disease in dogs progresses:
dogs flinch or pull away when anyone tries to inspect their teeth
their chewing patterns change
they smack their gums
they don’t tolerate having their teeth brushed because the gums are painful
they no longer enjoy playing with chew toys
their behavior may become more withdrawn or aggressive
Left untreated, dental disease adversely affects all of the body’s organs, including the heart, lungs, liver, and kidneys. The constant release of bacterial infections from the mouth to the rest of the body is a form of systemic poisoning. A study published in the April-June 2021 Open Veterinary Journal found that periodontal disease is associated with cognitive dysfunction in aging dogs. Keeping your dog’s gums healthy makes a rewarding investment in his old age.
Experts Warn Against Anesthesia-Free Tooth Cleaning for Dogs
Anesthesa-free dentals are popular with owners who worry about putting their dogs under anesthesia, but it’s impossible to get even the best-mannered dog to hold still for cleaning their teeth below the gum line – which is the most critical area to clean in order to prevent periodontal disease. Says canine health researcher and owner of the DogAware.com website Mary Straus, “Anesthesia-free dentals are cosmetic procedures that do not contribute to your dog’s health and may even disguise problems, since the teeth look clean.”
How to Keep Dog’s Gums and Teeth Healthy
To help prevent oral health problems, check your dog’s mouth for signs of gingivitis, plaque, and tartar. This is easy to do if you brush your dog’s teeth every day. If not, gently lift her upper lip to look at her front and side teeth, then pull the corner of her mouth back so you can see top and bottom teeth further back in her mouth. Repeat on the other side. Frequent checks will call your attention to something that needs immediate attention, such as a broken tooth or something caught between the teeth.
An early symptom of gingivitis is a thin red line along the gumline, which can increase in width if the illness progresses. A thorough exam, including x-rays, will show the extent of periodontal disease and determine appropriate treatment. Prompt veterinary attention can prevent further damage, and your at-home attention will help as well.
Dental plaque is a sticky, colorless biofilm of microorganisms that grows between, in front of, and behind teeth, on chewing surfaces, and along and below the gumline. It continuously forms on tooth enamel and unless removed by brushing, flossing, or other mechanical means, plaque hardens and forms tartar. Also known as dental calculus, tartar builds up on teeth, often turning brown or pale yellow.
Brushing your dog’s teeth can be an important step in preventing the accumulation of plaque and tarter. It’s easier to introduce brushing to puppies and young dogs but even older dogs can learn to sit still for brushing. For an inspiring story about how powerful this home care can bee, see “Save Your Dog’s Teeth With Home Care,” WDJ December 2014.
Alternatives to Using a Toothbrush On Your Dog’s Teeth
If a gentle approach, poultry-flavored toothpaste, and a soft toothbrush convince your dog to go along with brushing, consider supplements that can be added to food or water to address plaque and gingivitis.
Pet water additives sold as breath fresheners claim to enhance digestive health, improve nutrient absorption, and help dogs smell better. A small amount, such as a capful, is added to every bowl of drinking water. Some contain digestive enzymes, micronized minerals, or ingredients known to minimize plaque and tartar buildup.
Unfortunately, some of these additives contain xylitol, a no-calorie sweetener that is toxic to dogs. While the small amounts used according to label directions are considered safe for dogs, some veterinarians are concerned that the daily ingestion of xylitol may pose a risk. Check the label to make sure the product you buy does not contain xylitol.
Success depends on the product as well as how it is introduced to your dog; start with smaller-than-recommended quantities and respect your dog’s preferences.
Studies published in the medical literature show that probiotics (“friendly” or beneficial bacteria) can help prevent the buildup of plaque and tartar in humans, leading some manufacturers to create oral health supplements for dogs. No specific strains of probiotics have been proven to remove canine plaque and tarter, but some veterinarians who recommend probiotics for dogs have reported improvement in their patients’ oral health.
What to Know About Dogs, Bones and Chewing
Raw bones can clean teeth and gums while providing chewing pleasure and jaw exercise. However, bones can cause broken teeth, especially if their size and shape allow dogs to get them between their molars and crunch down. Marrow bones are a particular risk. Knuckle bones may be safer because of their shape, especially for large dogs and aggressive chewers. For best results, feed raw, fresh bones and remove them once the meat has been eaten, before they dry out. Cooked bones can splinter and are not recommended.
Chew toys can keep your dog busy and some, like Zesty Paws Probiotic OraStix, provide beneficial bacteria that support the oral microbiome. Nylabone Dental Chew Bones, made of a flexible thermoplastic polymer, feature dental tips that reduce plaque and help prevent tarter buildup. Offer your dog a choice of safe chew toys to help improve her gum health.
Owners often turn to dog trainers when they’re feeling exasperated. They report that their dog has the following behavior and training issues:
Has no idea how to walk on a leash!
Chews their shoes!
Jumps all over the guests!
Barks wildly at other dogs!
Chases the cat!
Of course, we trainers have detailed behavior-modification dog training plans for all of those things. But to start with, I like to suggest this all-purpose, magic tip:
Pretend you have a tiger, not a dog.
Dog training – like so much of life – is all about expectations. If you’re in the wrong headspace, it’ll ruin any training plan you try. The right mindset is your greatest advantage when it comes to creating a home where you and your dog are living happily together. That’s where the tiger exercise comes in.
Close your eyes. Think about that last unfortunate incident with your dog. Now, adjust that visualization, and picture your dog as a tiger you took into your home.
How does that tiger alter your reaction? You’d probably feel a little less mad, and it’s likely that your thoughts would shift like this:
He has no idea how to walk on a leash.
“Well of course he doesn’t! It’s amazing we’re out and about together at all, given how unnatural this is for him.”
She chews all of our shoes.
“Good Lord, why did we leave our shoes out where the tiger could get them?”
He jumps on the guests.
“How did we not realize that it was ridiculous to put the tiger in that situation when a tiger’s method of greeting is utterly unlike anything we humans would want to see?”
She barks wildly at dogs.
“It’s natural that she’d have big feelings about those other animals. Clearly we should help her with carefully guided experiences before expecting her to just be chill.”
He chases the cat.
“Why did we let those two species meet and interact without supervision?”
Don’t Expect a Dog to Know Our Human Ways
Obviously, your dog really isn’t a tiger, but every one of the empathetic reactions you’d probably have to a tiger’s behavior is 100% appropriate for a dog. Like captive tigers, dogs are a different species of animal just trying to adjust to living in a human world. Our expectations that dogs should immediately fold into our lives like Lassie are worse than silly; they’re terribly harmful – both to the dogs who are set up to fail and the humans who feel like they’ve blown it because their dogs aren’t perfect.
That’s why it helps to remind yourself (and everyone in your home) that you have a tiger in the house! A tiger is serious business, so:
You’re going to be proactive and set that animal up for success.
You’re going to think hard about how to manage guests.
You’re going to work diligently to tiger-proof the house.
You’re going to expect to be “on duty” when young kids or other animals are around.
You’re going to understand how completely weird all of this is for a creature who’s not in his native habitat, so you’ll expect those bumps in the road.
Finally, realizing you have a tiger who’s missing out on what he’d get if he were out in the wild, you would think like a good zookeeper would. “How can I better meet the needs of this captive animal, who wasn’t designed to Netflix on the couch?”
How Your Tiger Becomes the Best Dog
Flipping that mental switch from dog to tiger makes owners smarter, kinder, and more open to problem-solving. Do you know what that kind of nurturing does after a while? It turns that tiger into a dog who’s a pleasure to live with.
Mind you, most owners will still benefit tremendously from a great trainer with a dog behavior modification training plan, now that you have the right mindset. But the best trainer in the world can’t help you when you have impossible expectations about a member of another species who landed in your human home.
Licking is a natural behavior for dogs. The puppies of wild canids (or feral or street dogs) lick their parents’ mouths, which prompt the parents to regurgitate food for them. Mother dogs also instinctively lick their pups to clean them, and pups lick their moms in return. Licking is also a sign of affection which causes a release of oxytocin; it feels good to the dog who licks as well as the dog who gets licked! Dogs also explore the world with tongue – tasting their surroundings.
But what about licking humans? Yes, your dog may be showing her affection for you when she licks you – and she may be getting a little oxytocin boost as well. She might also lick as an appeasement gesture if she thinks you’re upset with her. She could be attention-seeking, or simply washing off good flavors – anything from that peanut butter on your lips to skin lotion you put on this morning.
Is a dog licking you dangerous?
Allowing a dog to lick you, particularly in the face, has the potential to expose you to pathogenic, food-borne bacteria such as Salmonella, Campylobacter, and Pasteurella, as well as Leptospira, the bacteria that causes leptospirosis and is found in the urine or body fluids of infected animals. If you’re confident that your dog has not been exposed to pathogenic bacteria, and are non immune-compromised, you may feel fine about taking those risks. Just remember that dogs also eat yucky stuff, including a variety of animal feces, dead things, and random garbage – and they lick their own nether ends, to keep them tidy. When they lick your face they share all that with you! However, you can minimize the risk by avoiding the dog’s tongue contacting with your mouth and nose.
Conversely, if you use any medicated cream or topical oil, allowing your dog to lick your skin could be harmful to your dog. People who use topical forms of hormones or pain medications should check with their veterinarian before allowing their dogs to lick them. It may be worth asking them about sunscreen and other topicals, too.
How to stop my dog from licking me
Fortunately, if you’re not a fan of being licked by your dog, there are a number of gentle methods to discourage this behavior:
Give your dog something else to do with her mouth. Preoccupy her tongue with a tasty chewie, a food-stuffed toy, or a snuffle mat.
Enrichment! A tired dog is a happy owner. Mental and physical exercise is likely to reduce her need to lick.
Turn away when she licks. If she’s attention-seeking, pre-empt her licking by giving her attention before the tongue appears. Then turn away if it does.
Change your soap or lotion. Your dog may be attracted to whatever scent you are using; you might find one she likes less.
Finally, if your dog’s licking is excessive, consider whether it could be a symptom of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD). If that’s the case, you’re best off seeking the assistance of a qualified dog behavior professional to find tactics to discourage your dog’s persistent licking behavior. But if you’re a fan of normal dog licks, go ahead – enjoy those kisses!
One possible reason is because pain has an emotional aspect. The somatosensory (physical) component of pain has to do with the location and intensity of pain. The affective (emotional) component is the fear, anxiety, and distress that accompanies physical pain.
Trazodone is a serotonin-modulating drug. It inhibits reuptake of serotonin and blocks serotonin receptor sites, thereby increasing the amount of serotonin available in the brain. Serotonin is a neurotransmitter responsible for promoting feelings of calmness and well being. The more serotonin hanging around in your brain, the better, calmer, and less anxious you feel. This is the same for dogs.
Adding trazodone to acute pain protocols for dogs helps manage the affective side of pain. If dogs wake up from a painful surgical procedure with trazodone on board, they suffer less fear and distress associated with any pain they may feel. The sedating effect of trazodone also makes it useful post-operatively for the rest and restricted activity recommended after most surgical procedures. This is especially helpful for young, exuberant dogs.
The same goes for dogs who have to undergo repeated, uncomfortable procedures; this can make dogs suffer fear and anxiety in anticipation of the procedure. A perfect example is frequent bandage changes on a painful wound. Pre-treating with trazodone minimizes the negative emotional experience for these patients, which makes them less likely to anticipate the procedure with fear and anxiety and generally more cooperative throughout the process.
Chronic pain conditions have a huge emotional component, taking their toll over time. Additionally, chronicity is known to increase pain perception sensitivity within the central nervous system. These facts suggest adding trazodone to chronic pain protocols may be helpful as well.
Studies have looked at whether trazodone may have its own antinociceptive (pain perception blocking) effect. One such study published in 2021 (“Synergistic interaction between trazodone and gabapentin in rodent models of neuropathic pain,” Garrone et al) looked at trazodone used in combination with gabapentin, a popular neuropathic pain-reliever. The results from this study were suggestive that trazodone does have some antinociceptive effects and that the combination was effective for treating chronic neuropathic pain with no serious adverse effects.
Trazodone Dosages for dogs
There is a wide range of acceptable Trazodone dosages for dogs, although you should never exceed 300 mg per dose or 600 mg per day, regardless of how big your dog is. It is always best to do a trial run, and start with a lower dose to gauge your dog’s response. If not getting the response you need, gradually increase the dose, staying within the recommended dosage range. Trazodone should be given 1.5-2 hours before you need the desired effect.
The suggested dosage range for Trazodone is 3-7 mg/kg of body weight, not to exceed 300 mg per dose or 600 mg per day. Trazodone is usually administered every 12 hours or twice a day, but can be administered every 8 hours ( three times a day) if necessary.
Trazodone tablets come in 50, 100, 150, and 300 mg sizes. The following chart provides dosing guidelines for dogs based on suggested dosage range, body weight, and tablet sizes:
Body weight (lbs)
Starting dose (mgs)
Target dose (mgs)
Maximum dose (mgs)
5
7**
12.5
16**
10
12.5
25
32**
15
25
37.5
50
20
25
50
62.5
25
37.5
50
75
30
50
62.5
100
35
50
75
100
40
50
100
125
45
62.5
100
150
50
75
125
150
55
75
125
175
60
75
150
200
65
100
150
200
70
100
150
225
75
100
175
250
80
100
200
250
85
125
200
250
90
125
200
250
95
125
200
300
100
150
225
300
105
150
250
300
110
150
250
300
115
150
250
300
120
162.5
275
300
** Compounding pharmacy required for these dosages
Dogs who are taking MAO inhibitors, SSRIs, or Tramadol should be dosed lower to avoid serotonin syndrome, which can be life-threatening.
Trazodone for Dogs: Side Effects
Trazodone is not addictive and side effects are uncommon, with up to 80% of dogs having none. Reported side effects include mild increased hunger, nausea, and diarrhea. An increased risk of bleeding when used with a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) has been reported.
The biggest caution with trazodone comes with using it in combination with other serotonin-enhancing drugs like fluoxetine (Prozac) and clomipramine (Clomicalm), and with tramadol, an opioid pain-reliever. The concern with these combinations is an adverse reaction called serotonin syndrome, where dogs with too much circulating serotonin suffer extreme agitation; generalized tremors; elevated heart rate, temperature, and blood pressure; dilated pupils; and trouble breathing. Serotonin syndrome can be life-threatening, so be sure to tell your veterinarian about all medications your dog is on.
In summary, trazodone is a complex, interesting medication with multiple potential clinical applications in veterinary medicine. There certainly is enough information out there suggesting trazodone may be a useful addition to both acute and chronic comprehensive, combination pain management protocols in dogs.
A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”
